Logs ( 200 )

1-11. South Atlantic-26°S

Apr 07, 2005 – 1636hrs UTC

1636hrs 07 Apr 2005 UTC Map Ref 154

Well here we go again. Another 50+ blast and increasing. We’ve been waiting for it for a couple of days and it’s just as unpleasant and nasty as I expected. The only difference from previous ones is that this one isn’t building on an existing swell so it’s not – yet – as vicious. Seems the cycle is two days of balmy sunshine followed by at least three of truly foul nastiness. And it’s the waiting that gets to me every time – we just have to sit them out, cant do anything except fret and watch the boat going backwards eating up great chunks of our previous gains. I havent got any feel for the scaleto these things yet in meteorological terms and I cant apply any of the usual rules. And I feel personally every crash and shudder and blast. We’ve worked down thro the sails and are now running abeam wiyth the storm jib at about 4 kts SW. SPBF.

I thought the RYA were stern examiners (you out there anywhere, Simon and Cloughy? Say G’day if you are, please –  it all helps) but whoever has set us this little test is a pure sadist. Looking at the grib, it seems this one is centred about 300 miles south just where we copped the really nasty one a week or so ago – its all a blur – and the centre is getting an AVERAGE 50+ so work that out.

I feel a Consultation coming on, then Pete wants a go.

1-11. South Atlantic-26°S

Apr 07, 2005 – 1830hrs UTC

1830hrs 07 Apr 2005 UTC Map Ref 155

Just sitting it out down here as the waves get bigger and our insulation gradually peels off the inside of the boat. Too warm and sticky for the glue. At least 12 hours more, as far as I can see, before things will ease. Cant even get pissed as an anaesthetic – too dodgy if we get pearshaped. But things could be worse.

Kim – we can talk to Leroy on the satphone – he has an IP phone up there in his shiny tin can and I don’t know at this stage who is paying the bills. But its a heap of fun. As for 5 GPS’s I have one feeding into the laptop and a backup, both on the boat’s 12v system, a couple of toy handhelds and a USB version that will plug into the laptop if I need to take it on deck and can get the laptop to find the right comm port to talk to it. somewhat haphazard.

James – we don’t get many emails – about 4 or 5 a day and from the same group of regulars with the occasional oncer and some nice surprises too. Very happy to get more, specially in conditions like these. ‘Orrible!

Don – you’re absolutely right about the marathon – only a fool etc. But if a headbanger such as I is presented with an opportunity like that it is axiomatic that heads will be banged. Can’t receive photos, unfortunately but thanks – it was described to me. As far as I know, rhe new ISS crew, ISS 11, join the ISS in about ten days on a Russian rocket and Leroy and Salizhan return on April 25. No mention of Shuttle – perhaps a cargo trip. What’s an NDE issue? [ed: Don advises that it’s a nondestructive evaluation]

Croo – good luck with the parsley – I’ve go a crop of cress under way. Growing much faster than down south in the cold.

Ian N and the Pendo mob – g’day. Good to hear from you.

1-11. South Atlantic-26°S

Apr 08, 2005 – 1200hrs UTC

1200hrs 08 Apr 2005 UTC Map Ref 156

Another awful night and it’s still not over – I don’t remember a longer, blacker,h busier night. You nay have got the feel from the short update at the beginning of it. The 50+ blew for hours, howling in the rig and building a short very steep really uncomfortable sea wit Berri rolling and pitching so violently that I’m covered in bruises, sleepless and very tired. The wind eventually dropped to about 30 but we were then in the biggest, scariest thunderstorms ever – mostly sheet lightning in the 500ft overcast lighting the whole world with eerie grey green flickering light but some big strikes into the sea quite close to us. Actual visibility about 500 metres in crashing rain for most of the time. Eventually dispersed and there was a ship close to us, unable to contact but seemed to be aware of us and standing by. Followed by more wind from dead ahead that has gradually backed to astern. We’re motoring  at just above idle to keep us moving through the slop – big effort to get out of this area and up north before the next one inevitably rolls in.

Now daylight, grey, heavily overcast,humid, barometer creeping up and we’ve got the 5 and the storm jib poled out for about 5 kts normal 7 in the gusts. Really glad that night is past – I know real sailors don’t ever get scared, but this one was – that sort of howl in the rig induces a kind of numb inability to focus beyond the moment along with a churning stomach and the lightning was something else again. I sat out in the cockpit in the rain monitoring the vital signs as it were, and the ship, and the power of the thunderstorm was just a bit overwhelming and up close for my sensitive nature. Like the Vortex – and JJ referred to me as Ford Prefect the other day, so at least there’s someone out there who understands why I look after my towel so carefully. A settling and calming Consultation has been scheduled for after sleep.

Anyway, really need some sleep. See yez later

Later still – slept and Consulted –  propagation not good so will try again to send this now.

1-11. South Atlantic-26°S

Apr 08, 2005 – 2000hrs UTC

2000hrs 08 Apr 2005 UTC Map Ref 157

Sorry, not everybody’s here, but I’m working on it. Fenwick, glad you’ve learned a bit of humility at last. Tell Gorde he doesn’t get his name in lights until e writes to us himself. Pass him the chivas.

Hugh and the Swordfish mob – g’day and thanks for kind words.  Really chuffing to know that there are people out there who actually take us seriously  – seems the corrugated mock up we drink in to get inspiration out at Fox is a good investment! Glad to know you did the Tassie trip – where next? I’ve lost Swordfish amongst all the other stuff that clogs my memory cell – please remind me.

WJR&J – have a great holiday – and a toasted mozzarella and mushroom sando for me. And we’d love to hear from Debra – one of my other most favourite people – take over from His Eminence please and keep the fires lit.

Doug and Estelle – if you want to know more about that bloke and the girl he married, you could try the Archivist in Stanley – I think her name is Jane Cameron, very well respected and you can find her thro the FI govt website. Interesting story, thanks. I’d love the old AGB to come swanning out here with a case of coldies, but they’d have a problem in this swell – even Catalinas had their limits…

Don – fascinating stuff – I knew about the foam problems but didn’t know you are working on it. Do those guys know about our dalliance with the sharp end of the enterprise or is it just something that happens in the wings, so to speak?

Michelle – Pete can answer that one!

Caro – good to get your news – we only do it to keep you lot amused and fooled…

Colin B. – so glad to hear that we’re doing something for you guys – Mostly, that’s why we went for the website. Next, you’ll be cruising South Georgia – to be recommended mightily, as far as we can see, at the right time of the year. Have a look at Antarctic Oasis, Tim & Pauline Carr, Norton, NY, 1998 – big coffee table book but gobsmacking. A future project for me, perhaps in two projects’ time…

Brian and Jen – glad you guys are still there – it means a lot to us and it’s great to get the occasional update from Dunedin. Closing for the winter, huh? What’s with you Kiwis – seems to me you should at least keep the bar open – and Bert – how was your trip to Stewart all those weeks ago?

Kim Q – he’s tough – pulls em out with the multi’s. Nice pic isn’t it?

Croo – I suppose you’d be interested in the saga of the toenail clippings then? Breathtaking stuff. Free the Dog!

1-11. South Atlantic-26°S

Apr 08, 2005 – 2030hrs UTC

2030hrs 08 Apr 2005 UTC Map Ref 158

Gang

Phew, this was what the punters wanted – a bit of biff. The ref has had to move in now and send Fenwick and Whitworth to their neutral corners I’m sitting ringside with some of the sporting scribes.

The consensus seems to be that maybe Whitworth went in a bit too hard too early. He managed to land many telling jabs to Fenwicks body but Fenwick is s seasoned bare knuckled brawler and can absorb much more punishment than that. I noted that he had a smile on his face as he moved to his corner.

Now there’s something -I see that Fenwick has had his full reclining armchair set up in the corner – I heard him say to his seconds at the end of the first round, ‘Get rid of that pissy little stool’. He must have some clout with the WBA if they let him bring this in – and what’s more a stack of pizza boxes and two slabs of beer have been set up alongside. I think he’s on board for the full ride. I say this is a bit upmarket too – I wonder who’s promoting this event. A rather scantily clad young lady wearing gold stiletto heels has entered the ring and is now parading a large board with the number 3 held above her head.

I can also tell you that looks like a gold Rolex watch on her wrist.

The ref has finished marking his card and I think we’re nearly ready for round 3.

Whoo – that was close – the young lady in stilettos just tried to exit the ring by hurdling the ropes. Unfortunately the stilettos provided a poor launching platform and she landed in the lap of a corpulent chap with a grey beard two seats down and he seems to be having trouble getting her back on her feet.

I’m looking at Whitworth now and I hope the recent marathon hasn’t sapped his stamina. Fenwick meanwhile is giving him a cold brutal stare. We await the bell

Pete

1-11. South Atlantic-26°S

Apr 09, 2005 - 1900hrs UTC │Boredom I

1900hrs 09 Apr 2005 UTC Map Ref 159

Greetings fro an area with calm seas and soft warm breeze – for the moment.

To answer some questions:

  • Ian Nursey – why no fishing?
    Normally I’m the first to get a line over the side but in the southern ocean things were different. There was a lot of bird life and I wouldn’t want to snare a young albatross. Also, you feel extremely fragile down there, its a very hard environment, it’s isolated and you feel empathy for all other living creatures down there, but the short answer is that I wasn’t hungry and I didn’t want to disturb the neighbours. Things will probably change as we get warmer and more comfortable in the calmer environment.
  • Michelle, you ask some good provocative questions.
    Do you get bored – do you get annoyed with eachother? The boat is so small, how do you cope with being so restricted?

    Bored? Bloody well bored – I’m so looking forward to being bored. I’ve been beaten, bruised, battered, brutalised bloodied but never bored. In the southern ocean, we were always living on the edge. We were small and vulnerable. A 33 foot boat is not the boat of choice for down there. But you can make it if you are careful and make no mistake. With these parameters, boredom doesn’t exist. Since leaving Stanley, we seem to be in 3 day cycles of good and bad weather. By the time you recover in the good times, its all on again. Boredom will become a problem in a month’s time when we are north of the equator and the horse latitudes. I’m looking forward to it.

    To the next question – of course we get annoyed with eachother – we wouldnt be human if we didn’t get annoyed in such close confinement. But for us to complete this little adventure, we must trust and help eachother and not be concerned with the trivial crap that sours many friendships. It’s Alex’s boat – we consult about things, i have as much input as I likebut the final call is his. We both agree on the important things that affect the safety of the boat. we have sailed enough together and been in enough situations to have confidence in eachother’s abilities.
    When oyur’e tired and exhausted, it’s easy to get annoyed but we give sufficient latitude to eachother to get over this. There have been no arguments, no shouting matches. There have been many disagreements but at the end of the day over perhaps a Gin and tonic, alex will agree that i was right and i will agree that he was right. The weather must have something to do with it – on a day like today, I don’t think even alan Jones could annoy me. I’ll leave your question on close confinement till later.

  • Michelle is my niece – her sister Karyn has just become engaged to her best friend Fernando. If any of you have a bottle nearby, pull the cork, pour a tipple and wish them a long and wonderful life together. Our best wishes go out to you both.
  • Mr Judd, try Noel Garnett on 9546 7229 – he is good on period skirtings and architraves. He amy not be up and running at the moment as he recently had a hip replaced.

I’ll get out of your way now – cheers o all – Pete.

1-11. South Atlantic-26°S

Apr 10, 2005 - 0430hrs UTC │Dog Bowls : a Short Dissertation

0430hrs 10 Apr 2005 UTC Map Ref 160

Once again in good weather – balmy and warm, water 24 degrees. 20 – 25 knots from the east and looks ok for a day or two more. Fingers crossed. Berri now further north than she has ever been with me – we are north of the lagoon entrance at Lord Howe Island which is about as far north as we have been together. Another small milestone. Passing Rio will, I hope, be the next. Then NE Brazil and the equator in about three weeks AGW. We are three days behind schedule though, after all the storms.

On elegant solutions to intractable problems: Episode 1 (it may turn out to be the only one)

Boats, especially little ones like Berrimilla, tend to crash around a lot and move in 3 dimensions. Everything has to be tied down or otherwise restrained. Every horizontal flat surface has a “fiddle” around its edge – a little wooden wall to stop things sliding off and there are special fittings for holding mugs and glasses. (Always plastic ‘glasses’ and bottles and containers – gin, olive oil etc decanted from glass into labelled plastic – broken glass in a boat is a dreadful health hazard and completely avoidable). In particularly violent pitching and rolling, ordinary plates, cups, spoons, books, spectacles laptops etc simply launch over their fiddles and fly across the boat to crash into something on the other side like my head. A normal plate or bowl is exactly the right shape to assist such a launch and they are diverted upward by fiddles. Unpleasant and dangerous but if the plate is full of hot food, even more so, to say nothing of the wasted effort cooking and required later to clean up the mess. And if the plate is actually stopped or slowed by the fiddle, the food it contains will continue on its own. Yet to survive out here, or to remain functional in a fully crewed race over several days, hot food is essential.

There are various ways of dealing with this – simply ignoring the problem and grimly hanging on to plate, mug or whatever the unfortunate cook has managed to fill is one option, but it’s not easy to hold a fairly shallow plate with one hand, moving it in harmony with the boat, and using the other hand to hold on and eat with at the same time. Or just cooking instant noodles in those prepacked plastic bowls works works quite well but you cant live for ever on those.

Or consider the humble dogbowl. It is conical, usually with a turned out lip or flange around the base. The cone  contains a deep ‘crater’ with vertical sides and a flat bottom. This is an inherently stable shape and if placed inside a fiddle, it will not jump over it in any but the most severe conditions. It can be placed on the floor in reasonable conditions without tipping, sliding or spilling. Food in the crater is effectively contained by the vertical sides as long as the bowl is not filled too full

Several of them can be stacked in almost the same space as one alone and the top one can be filled by the cook without having to hold on to the stack as with normal plates and bowls. The dogbowl is easy to hold with one hand folded around the base and flange either palm up or, if sitting braced on the floor or in a bunk, with the near flange resting on ones collarbone and the thumb of one hand inside the outer part of the flange and the fingers on the outside. This is a particularly effective way of using it because it gets the food very close to the mouth with the bowl below to catch spillage and avoids long travel with a spoon, spilling greasy stew on ones trousers and shirt on the way. And they are easy to clean and stow as well.

Berrimilla has a set of 6 stainless steel dogbowls with 200mm craters purchased from Woolworths for the 1998 S2H and invaluable ever since.

 

1-11. South Atlantic-26°S

Apr 10, 2005 – 1900hrs UTC

1900hrs 10 Apr 2005 UTC Map Ref 161

Northward, ever northward, with enough easting to leave Cabo Frio, east of Rio, well to port. We saw a couple of fishing boats two nights ago further out than we expected, so we’re being much more systematic about keeping a regular lookout. It would be really nice to sail close in up the Brazilian coast, but far too much hassle avoiding other boats, probably fishing gear and just about every big ship that comes down this way.

Don’t want to bore you with dull weather reports, although they are anything but dull for us. Classic high pressure system conditions here, warm, humid, rain and showers, easterly wind – all indicating we are at the top of a high with its anticlockwise circulation bringing warm moist air from further out to sea. Getting quite close to the tropics – about 400 miles to go to Capricorn, roughly the latitude of Rio – and lovely Rockhampton too. We can’t get any weather faxes from Brazil – they do not seem to be transmitting them – so we rely on the grib files and what it looks like out of the window. Hoping fervently that we are past the worst but not yet relaxed by any means.

We have been talking to people I met some years ago in Sydney – Tom and Vicky Jackson, an English couple with a boat called Sunstone – quite famous – try www.sunstonesailing.com/ if you are interested. They are following us up from Stanley where they arrived the day after we left, unfortunately, on their way to Rio. they are about a thousand miles behind, but their boat is bigger and faster. We will keep a radio sked with them and stay in email contact for as long as possible.

Lots of interesting reaction to my admitting to being a scaredy cat in the various storms – I think there is a point up to which a bit of fear and adrenaline is helpful and evolutionarily advantageous (how about that for a mouthful?) but I have seen people in storms way past that point – foetal position, thumb sucking scared – and that’s often a challenge for the skipper who has to try to care for the person and run the boat shorthanded. Luckily, Pete doesn’t suck his thumb and I don’t think I do either.

Now that things have eased a bit for really the first time since leaving Hobart, I find I can sit down and read a book. Trouble is, i read so fast, I now have to start rationing them. In Stanley, I bought almost the entire second hand book stock from the Church store, including about 10 National Geographics – perhaps 20 books, everything except the bodice rippers. We have some others all the way from Oz as well – perhaps another 20 – so just might last until we get far enough north to be distracted by other things.

And to those who keep asking, Fenwick is a real person – doddering old fart who drinks and scratches and thinks he’s funny. Well, we do laugh at him a lot. Perhaps Mal should post both sides of the conversation. But he is allowed to piss into wind, having been around the Horn. So he does, but he’s too silly to work out why his knees suddenly get warm. Owns a famous old Sydney Hobart veteran called Morning Tide, which he used to be able to sail before he started drinking. An S&S 34, as anyone who knows about the ‘Morning …’ boats will know. Ted Heath, ex British PM, – those of you old enough to remember him, take a bow – won the 1965 (I think) Sydney Hobart in his Morning Cloud. I expect Fenwick has to sail with Morning Sickness a fair bit these days.

If I keep rambling like this I will run out of things to talk about before we get to the equator – questions answered tomoz. See yez.

1-11. South Atlantic-26°S

Apr 11, 2005 – 1530hrs UTC

1530hrs 11 Apr 2005 UTC Map Ref 162

This looks like being long and gossipy. I saw a flying fish today – we must be getting close to the tropics – its about 28 -30 degrees, humid, hazy – tough going. Not really enough wind and heading us badly, so may still end up climbing the Brazilian coast from Cabo Frio. The last bad storm messed up the early plan by taking us way further inshore that we wanted to go and now we can’t easily get back out. We would have liked to be where we could meet the SE trade winds at about 25S 30W but not to be.

We are still hoping to rendezvous with the ISS, but they must now be very busy getting ready for the ISS 11 crew, due up there in a week or so. Just needs a clear night and a high pass and some accurate timing, but all together quite difficult to achieve.

We also had a visitor today – a tiny fluffy finch-like bird – greenish brown, yellow flashes on top of wings, short pointy beak – came aboard, rested below for a bit, made some deposits and left again. Noice!
And we have a big problem – the cans of The Doctor are corroding in the iceboxes and losing their contents. Panic – we have instituted a regime of more frequent consultations while we decide whether there is any remedy.
Leo – good to hear from you – The Doctor is Guinness, Pete’s home brew, now gone but for two bottles, was Dr Cooper’s, and we also have Smoothies and The Archers Tool. Go figure!.

Big tanker went past on th horizon this morning probably towards Cape Town from somewhere south of Rio.

Those of you who were around west of Cape Horn may remember that we broke a blade off the fine pitch turbine we tow to drive our auxiliary generator. It’s a stainless shaft about a metre long with a rather rough cast aluminium hub at the end with two blades sticking out. Someone kindly welded a new bit of blade back on in Port Stanley but the weld failed not long into the stormy bit. We have been using the spare, coarse pitch turbine but we’re not going fast enough for it to work properly. I have suggested a solution to the suppliers which would eliminate such hassles – we shall see. Meantime, the BP Solar panel is pushing 4 amps into the batteries every time the sun comes out and we are just making do. There’s always diesel.

Does anyone know why the latitudes close to the equator are called the Horse latitudes – and which/where are they?
[ed: Responses now here]

And the big news: last night was reasonably clear – the usual gigazz of stars – Milky Way looks almost solid – and I saw Ursa Major for the first time – not all of it, but we’re getting there. For those who don’t know, the defining constellation in the southern hemisphere is the Southern Cross and its two pointers, Rigil Kent and Hadar. In the Northern hemisphere, it is Ursa Major, The Great Bear, also known as The Plough and The Saucepan, both of which it resembles more than a bear. The two western stars in the constellation point directly to the Pole Star above the North Pole. We won’t see the Pole Star this side of the equator and I’m not sure when we will on the other side but it’s all happening out here. And the Southern Cross is now significantly below top dead centre too.

Devncroo – I knew about Viking wool sails – I think they actually found one in an old ship or a tomb, but the mind does boggle a bit about water and weight. There might be something via google?

Brian and Jen – oops! And Yay! for the bar – work on it.

John C, Malcom, Hi.

Stephen C, thanks for your note – Gordo seems to be under the baleful influence of one Fenwick and we don’t hear from him any more.

1-11. South Atlantic-26°S

Apr 12, 2005 - 1500hrs UTC

1500hrs 12 Apr 2005 UTC Map Ref 163

In the horse latitudes – looking for the Trades

A little diatribe. Ever since I’ve been sailing, I’ve been aware of the dangers of working on deck with bare feet and I’ve seen some nasty injuries. It was forbidden in the boats I grew up in, before and at Dartmouth. There are two reasons – wet waterlogged feet lose their grip before good deck shoes (perhaps those with prehensile toes will shout at me, but it’s generally true) and wet soft skin and unprotected toes are especially vulnerable to cuts, splits and breaks.

So what does Muggins do this morning – yup, a sail change with soft bare feet. Nice warm water, no probs.

Boat gyrating a bit, lost grip coming back into the cockpit and sliced open the side of my foot near the big toe on heaven knows what. Stupid stupid stupid. I think I was lucky – clean cut, flap still intact, lots of salt water to keep it clean, just this side of needing stitches. Steri strips won’t stick and we have a surgical staple gun in the kit but no thanks! So to the next problem – what to do with it. Skin soft and waterlogged, no dressing will stick, bandages absorb water. Decided on a compromise – band aid along the length of the cut, big Primapore dressing over the top and the whole lot compressed by a couple of turns of duct tape all around the ball of the foot. Seems to be working and can put deck shoe over the top. Fingers crossed. Duct tape doesn’t let air in, but the ends are open and will have to change daily.

Pete goes barefoot and has survived a lifetime without injury – he’s grown up that way but I still think he’s been lucky. And there are others out there with leather feet who have done the same and will scoff at me for being a wimp. No problem – there are exceptions but for the rest of you, it’s an unnecessary risk and you take the consequences. I’ll never do it again. Those of you who have done the safety and sea survival course will know about duty of care.

Banging into 30 knot NE wind trying to get north about another 300 miles into the SE trades. Slow, battering slog into short steep lumpy sea with no let up in sight for a couple of days. Nice that we are on an enhanced consultation regime! Lots of small flying fish in the scuppers all night – too small to eat but a sign that we are nearly there. Passed a brightly lit vessel during the night – probably fishing and may not have seen us at all through his own glare.

Nice new moon – brilliant sky last night.

Looked at the large scale CMap chart of the Brazilian coast from Isla Catherina past Rio – bloody hell – there are ‘fish aggregation devices’, yellow special navigation buoys and lots of other potential show stoppers all along and there’s no way we’ll go close in unless we have no alternative.

1-11. South Atlantic-26°S

Apr 13, 2005 - 1010hrs UTC

1010hrs 13 Apr 2005 UTC Map Ref 164

It’s the middle of the night and I’m sweating – send me down my silver threaded T shirt, Noreen! – it’s hot and humid, which, it seems to me, is a better reason for sweat than the dull fear that comes in a storm at night. But I am constantly reminded about why in Berrimilla I never go North of Lord Howe in Australia. Tropical sailing isn’t necessarily all it’s cracked up to be. Don’t mind being paid for teaching up there though – a bloke’s got to eat.

Big thank you to everyone who sent us information about the horse latitudes, which, I have learned. we were in when I asked the question, but horseless and far from becalmed. And the range of sources was surprising too. Perhaps Malcolm could anonymise all the responses and post them as a little archive?  [See here: Answers to Horse Latitudes questions] Two interesting details – the very sad song by Doors and the suggestion that there may have been a derivation from the Spanish ‘golfo de las yeguas mares’.

Simon, couldn’t find bowditch on the laptop – must get it next time…and every sail change and storm and hiccup shows up clearly on the log files – interesting – would it be possible, for instance, to publish it as a cd referenced to log incidents?

Noreen – thanks for article about sweaty astronauts – NASA can probably afford to experiment with silver thread – fascinating bit of chemistry buried in there somewhere! – but it’s way beyond our micro budget. I expect, though, that like lots of other innovations such as teflon, a bit of silver thread to subdue the armpit and crutch ferals may well be the new trend in cool yachting underdags spun off (ugh) the space program. Can’t wait – Leroy, if you’re reading this, keep me a cast off and we’ll test it in the maritime environment!

And Jenny S – I did get your Cape Horn email and BOG details but in the euphoria of the moment, I probably didn’t do it justice. Thanks and we’re both looking forward to appearing in the first issue of The BOG Paper. Don’t know anything about Crossbow.

Croo – I must have read the same article about woollen Viking ship sails in New Scientist – I remember the bit about keeping the wool sails in the church towers and finding a fragment. Clever bit of lateral thinking there too. [See New Scientist article: The sheep that launched 1000 ships)

Kris, you got a separate answer, to alum address.

Wildlife report: haven’t seen a seabird foe a couple of days. Where do they all go, or is it some sort of portent, like the departure of rats? Flying fish, still small, in abundance, but Pete saw one big enough to eat. Lovely to watch them skittering across the surface with the sun flashing off sides and ‘wings’.

1-11. South Atlantic-26°S

Apr 13, 2005 - 2330hrs UTC

2330hrs 13 Apr 2005 UTC Map Ref 165

Today has been, like the Curate’s egg, good in parts. Started in high good humour as the wind swung round to the south east and seemed to be settling in – we thought we had managed to hook into the SE Trades a bit early. Sadly, not so – hopes evaporated when I pulled in the grib file and found that we are once again on the back of another high and due to be headed again severely over the next two days. Patience and perseverance recalled to duty and here we sit, rolling less than wildly with the #4 and the trisail (great rig – balanced and not too powerful for the short beam seas) galloping us ENE to get as far across as possible before the wind starts to back and we go round with it. We are into day 19 out of Stanley and a bout 1700 miles north, so we are about two days behind schedule for a 70 day trip. All back of envelope stuff and we should catch up  bit once we get above this stream of highs and headers.

Getting warmer and more humid every day. I’m sweating gently as I sit at the nav table at around 8pm local time. Cant open any hatches except the top of the storm boards as there’s lots of water and spray over the decks so quite uncomfortable. We are approaching the Inter Tropical Convergence Zone (ITCZ) around the equator, and the cloud cover is growing and the cloudbase descending – just like in the southern ocean on the other side of the wall, but WARM! I hope we can cobble together one clear night, a high pass and a bit of luck in the next week or so to crack the R/V with the ISS. NASA sent Leroy our video last week – we haven’t seen it ourselves so I hope it was worth the effort and he found it interesting. He is due to return to Khazakstan on April 25.

My foot seems to be healing – thanks John re superglue advice – we have some in the kit but I had completely forgotten. The Doctor clearly slipped up during the Consultation.

We had intended to empty out the boat in Stanley, dry it out, clean all the spaces and then restow, but the weather and the difficult berth we were on made that impossible. Consequently, there is stuff stashed away in wet and mouldy hollows that’s been there since Hobart. Erk! I started on one bit today and – wonder of wonders – found the knife I lost way the other side of the Horn – must have been thrown across the boat in some big roll and buried itself in a daggy heap of wet plastic bags. Nice to have it back. And yesterday Pete found a bag of my clothes – shorts particularly, that had been stowed for resurrection in Stanley. But we cant find the half litre of Betadine, taken from the heavy kit for Pete’s hands in the pacific and carefully put somewhere so we could get it easily…using metho as temporary antiseptic.

John and Sherryl, good to hear from you – State Champions hey, John! Congratulations and well done. And don’t be fooled – all the expensive gear only makes the boat go as fast as the skills of the crew can drive it – you guys must be pretty good. Berri training helped, we hope!

1-11. South Atlantic-26°S

Apr 14, 2005 - 2215hrs UTC

2215hrs 14 Apr 2005 UTC Map Ref 166

Here we still are, looking at Rio from afar. The wind is from the north east, where we want to go, so we’re doing long tacks to get around Cabo Frio, or, more precisely, what seem to be a series of oil rigs on the edge of the continental shelf to the east of Frio. I will be very glad indeed when we eventually get round that corner and happier still when we get into the trades. We can see them, tantalisingly close, on the grib, but lots of work to get there. Once we do, they should take us most of the way to the equator. And a long way out to sea, about 700 miles from here to the north east is Martin Vaz Island – tiny inhabited island belonging to Brazil.

Last night,  a very large ship came out of the east. swung around our stern and ‘parked’ about a mile away on our beam. Disconcerting. I called them and discovered it was the Orient Constellation and they were just making sure we were ok. Very short conversation – perhaps I should have asked them more – looked like a tanker. Once we had spoken they altered course again and disappeared very quickly.

Fiona, we did hear about the Skiff episode from Fenwick – doesn’t hurt to rub it in a bit though.

Arlette, keep on truckin’ and have a birthday bash for me on the 22nd. We’re still dunking shortbread and jammy thingies.

Jenna, thanks for lovely note – I’ll write you a separate reply but I’ll answer your questions here – yes, it’s generally heaps scarier at night – not sure why, but it may be the haunted house effect – just another house in daylight but comes alive at night. Also, the noise and the spray and everything seem to be magnified and I get that numb feeling that it’s all going to happen…everything tightens up and I sit (when possible – often not) and listen and fret. Different kind of scary when you cant see something too – the imagination at work.

Ocean waves are physically just the same as beach waves except that they don’t have a sloping beach under them. They are often much bigger – in the southern ocean they can build up over a fetch that goes right around the world, so each wave has enormous energy but the water itself is not moving forwards – only up and down. But when the wave gets to a sloping shore, the lower part of it is deflected – slowed down – causing the wave form to collapse at the top and the water starts to surge forward – this is the breaking wave on a beach. The same breaking effect is caused by the wind actually moving the water in the tops of ocean waves forwards, causing it to break – huge and very frightening if you are under it. Oceanographers may quibble with this description, but it’s more or less what happens.

We don’t do any fishing although we might – and we are towing a turbine on a 40 metre line too, which complicates things. We hope to get some flying fish on board at night as we go north.

Wildlife – the Dinos are back – phosphorescence all around, big sparkly flashes along with rather misty greenish ligt in the water. And one solitary seabird – a tern perhaps, with a split tail. The first one for several days, surprising this close to land.

1-11. South Atlantic-26°S

Apr 15, 2005 - 1130hrs UTC

1130hrs 15 Apr 2005 UTC Map Ref 167

And still here, in a very uncomfortable headbutt into a 30kt North easter which is due to blow for at least two more days. Very frustrating. The trades are just over the horizon to the north and we can’t get there yet. Boat on the port tack, bashing into short steep sea and I’m wedged into the nav table space, knees braced under the table and just about every other muscle working to keep me in keyboard contact. Not fun. May be a bit short on updates if it continues but I’ll persevere if possible.

The laptop is on permanent charge and seems to be running quite hot – I know they generate a lot of heat but should I be concerned? I suspect it is normal, and I just haven’t noticed in the colder south.

Not much to report – Supplies of The Doctor are being depleted according to a corrosion fudge factor and so far we haven’t lost any more. Once the iceboxes are empty, we can slow down again and work on the various other stashes that should be less corroded.

Size of flying fish is increasing – I saw one this morning that I first thought was a seabird. Perhaps we’ll get one for breakfast soon. No seabirds, lots of phosphorescent dinos. Water now iridescent blue and 27+ degrees. Why was it grey further south?

Leroy Chiao told me that he can’t photograph Cape Horn for us because it is always in darkness when their orbit takes the over the top, and it will be so for some weeks yet. I had not considered the trigonometry of their orbit – assuming. I suppose, that they go so fast and orbit so often that they would see everywhere in daylight at least every few days or so. Interesting and I will have to look at the predictor on the internet when we get to England. (Malcolm has the URL if anyone else is interested) [ed http://spaceflight.nasa.gov/realdata/sightings/] . There must be big areas they don’t see for weeks at a time and it makes our rendezvous even trickier than I imagined. Not long to go for ISS 10 – they leave for Khazakstan in 10 days. We are hoping that John Phillips in ISS 11 will be interested in continuing the contact.

2 more ships last night – one very big one crossed our stern at about a mile. Called them but no answer. Interesting course – came from the west and turned south just behind us. The other one came from the south east and passed astern. quite a long way off.

Croo – keep up the patter please – sometimes hard to respond to them all but v much appreciated. Desperately awaiting exciting news about parsley.

Jenna – I’ll get to it – maybe not today and yes, I’d like to read your article please – send it to the website as an attachment and ask Malcolm to paste it into one or more emails  – Thanks Mal, in advance :-) and please include Jenna’s address in your next – ta.

David – Neptune r/v unpredictable from here but at least 16 days and no, we won’t be swimming at least until the doldrums = dangerous and difficult.

1-12. 26°S-Nose Brazil

Apr 16, 2005 – 1100hrs UTC

1100hrs 16 Apr 2005 UTC Map Ref 168

Via Satphone: Motoring into a lumpy 35 knot north-easterly trying to make some headway (or at least not lose ground). Both Alex and Peter are fine but the conditions are uncomfortable. [ed: I think I heard the word ‘shitty’ but that may have just been interference :-) ] Radio reception lousy so probably no updates for a while.

1-12. 26°S-Nose Brazil

Apr 16, 2005 – 1330hrs UTC

1330hrs 16 Apr 2005 UTC Map Ref 169

And still here. Conditions awful – 35-40 kt NE, short steep sea, 10 – 20 metre wavelength, boat rolling wildly and pitching thro perhaps 40degrees. Cant sit, cant relax, every muscle group in action, dreadful sore backside from salt and pressure.  Everything wet, sun burning down, hands white, nails starting to peel off. Fun. Bloody south atlantic- cant wait to get out of here. Motoring @ 2 kt just to keep bow @ 45 degrees to wind and swell. Proper answer perhaps the trisail as steadier, but too difficult to get it up at the mo. Wonderful seaboat she is but Berri just too small for this stuff. Only other option is to heave to and lose meagre gains from yesterday. Shit. Time to call for The Doctor.

Sorry, no chatty updates till this goes – forecast another two days. Will try to stay in touch with short ones.

1-12. 26°S-Nose Brazil

Apr 16, 2005 – 1700hrs UTC

1700hrs 16 Apr 2005 UTC Map Ref 170Map Ref 170

Here we still are, part IV or whatever. Not a lot has changed except that the wind has dropped to 25 and we’ve got some sail up again. General conditions much the same but at least the boat is a bit steadier. Trickling ENE with the #5 and 3 reefs and expecting some sort of change tomorrow that may free us. Still hot, violent and wet and uncomfortable. Had a refreshing draught of the Archer’s Tool to recover from hard yakka putting sails up again.

News: Saw big ship on collision course last night – we were the give way vessel (even tho a sailing vessel, not likely he would have known or cared) so we altered course to starboard (as the rules prescribe) and called him and told him where we were and what we’d done. I suspect he had not seen us – he was then about 4 miles away – but he also altered and we passed down his port side about half a mile apart. Looked like an empty tanker probably en route Cape Town to Rio. Can’t relax at all out here – a radar alarm might help. Jenna – you asked about calling ships – Channel 16 VHF is the international distress frequency and until recently, all vessels above (I think) 300 tons, had to keep watch on 16. It is also the frequency on which to contact other vessels and if your message is long, or there are lots of other vessels around in range, then you go to another frequency. In our case last night, I simply called ‘Vessel at 25 south, 38 west, this is Berrimilla 2 on i6′ and he answered. They don’t always, especially as the rules have changed and a lot of this stuff is automated and a lot of this stuff is automated.

Kim, didn’t actually need to use supaglue on foot – seems that the duct tape and compression have worked. Not sure what will happen if we get really pearshaped again and I have to introduce the boot ferals to a still sticky wound – we shall see.

Arlette – boiled eggs for breakfast – beautifully cooked, but tricky without the cattle dog. Pete was wearing his suit.

I mentioned fingernails in the last one – they are going white underneath and separating from the finger. Interesting – I’ve seen it happen but not to me.

Gotta go – there’s a reasonable ISS pass tonight and must make the arrangements.

1-12. 26°S-Nose Brazil

Apr 17, 2005 - 0615hrs UTC │Surviving the Bus Shelter

0615hrs 17 Apr 2005 UTC Map Ref 171

Imagine you are sitting on the long metal or plastic bench in a bus shelter. I know this may be a difficult concept for some of you, but indulge me. In front of you, about a metre away, is a similar bench parallel to yours, just far enough away so that you can brace your back against the wall of the shelter and your feet against the opposite bench. Your arms are spread as wide as possible away from your sides so that the heel of each hand is braced against the edge of your bench. Imagine that the wall of the bus shelter is cut off at the height of the middle of your back and the left hand wall (as you sit) is just high enough to duck your head behind. It has a little canvas awning (called a dodger) you can just get your head under. This is a rough approximation of Berrimilla’s cockpit.

Comfortable? Close your eyes and imagine that the whole contraption is moving at a fast walking pace from your right to your left. There is a wind blowing from your left front into your face. Someone is throwing buckets of water up into this wind and you have to duck behind the dodger to stay dry.

Now for the fun part. Count slowly to six and fix this period in your mind. During this time, the cockpit moves vertically up and down about three metres, sometimes with abrupt changes of direction and there is a longer period – about half a minute – during which there is a background lift and drop of perhaps six metres behind the shorter motion. At the same time, in the six second period, the cockpit is rolling around the length of your bench, perhaps 20 degrees each way, so your legs and back have to keep you in place as your face alternately looks up at the stars and down at the water. The points where your backside and back are in contact with bench and wall are subject to changing pressure and the force of gravity which tries to slide you off the bench and back on. And the really fun part is that the cockpit is also pitching in time with both periods, quite violently over the short one, so the ends of your bench are lifted and dropped over perhaps 40 degrees, often with severe and abrupt stops as the left hand end pitches downwards. As it stops, you get an extra bucket of water directly in the face unless you duck…

Bracing against the pitch is very difficult and tiring and your backside and back tend to get very sore and battered, and the salt water is squeezed into your skin unless you have waterproof pants on and it’s really too warm for them – each cheek of your backside in turn takes the pressure and tries to slide forwards, sideways or backwards – your skin stays locked to the bench, but your pelvic bones move inside it against the muscles of your backside. Same effect with your back – the spine moves against the big muscles going up your back and they move against your skin.

It’s all very tiring and difficult. Going to windward in these conditions for long periods is always like that in small boats but it wasn’t in the brochure for this tour. I hope it stops soon…

Enjoy your breakfast!

1-12. 26°S-Nose Brazil

Apr 17, 2005 – 1436hrs UTC

1436hrs 17 Apr 2005 UTC Map Ref 172

Change of scenery. Massive frontal system passed over us about 4 hours ago – big line squall at the front, rolling into the cu-nims behind – black, low, bulging with attitude. Gerry, if you’re reading this, could you please email my pic of the hurricane isabelle storm with the tanker’s bows in front to Malcolm – just to give everyone the flavour. Dropped all sail, put the headsail away, rolled the main out out of the track so we could use trisail if needed, took the windvane off and waited. Drizzle, darkness, low roll cloud moving in, lightning, thunder, crashing rain, even darker – too dark to read down below. We decided too good to miss so took turns naked in the cockpit with soap and stinging, cold rain. Wonderful feeling, tho a bit scary as lightning still around. Wind so strong, and so much rain, that we seemed to be floating in frothy milk with a bluish tinge. No horizon, no difference between water and sky except grey blue waves shadowy visible beside us. Eventually abated, front passed to the NE and we are now motoring slowly behind it to charge the battery and wait till the lull turns into something we can use. Filmed the front, but couldn’t get the frothy milk effect – just too much water moving more or less horizontally. Later – looks as if there will be more thunderstorms behind – may miss us to the west but I don’t suppose we’ve earned any remission yet.

[ed: Gerry’s photo is here]

We will soon cross the Tropic of Capricorn – level with Rockhampton, still just south of Rio. We will probably not go as far east as 30 W until we get north of Africa, but we have now done the miles for half way round the world, even if we haven’t yet covered the longitude (30 W would be half way as Sydney is at 150 E). Some cause for celebration. But we are a few days behind schedule after all this windward nonsense and the storms further south. Mid June is looking more likely for Falmouth.

1-12. 26°S-Nose Brazil

Apr 18, 2005 - 11hrs UTC

1100hrs 18 Apr 2005 UTC Map Ref 173

Plus ca change, plus c’est la meme chose…Still in our shed in Fox Studios, Malcom – there’s a bus shelter just outside the gate – and I forgot to add yaw into the gyrating cockpit – up to 60 degrees either side of intended course, perhaps, over the shorter period. To humour the unbelievers, we’re now off the Disneyland Space Mountain roller coaster and Pirates of the Caribbean rides and on a slowly rolling calm sea with no wind, lightning to the south, lovely moon. Chatty updates back on the agenda.

Another why is it so? question perhaps for the physicists: this evening the sun set behind a small cloud bank just above the horizon. All the usual spectacular colours plus radiating spokes of alternating shadow and light caused, presumably by the irregular shape of the cloudbank. Not uncommon, although these were vivid pink and orange. The odd thing was that these spokes did not continue to diverge as they passed overhead as you might expect, but seemed to converge to a point opposite the setting sun on the eastern horizon. I wasn’t able to follow individual bars continuously from setting sun to eastern horizon because they were not visible directly overhead but the effect to the east was a series of alternating white and grey spokes converging to a point. How does this happen? Is it some sort of refraction or just an illusion?

12 hours later – still oily calm – hot – water 28 degrees and really does feel like a warm bath. We’re burning a bit of diesel to try to get up into the bottom of the trades. No seabirds, one very big container ship yesterday, Dinos in brilliant phosphorescent splendour last night in the calm. Flying fish around, not yet sacrificially motivated – give em time. Found a ziplok bag with 6 minties in it today, from some bygone age. They are soft to almost runny and I’m having a happy time unrolling the papers and scraping off the sticky mess. The new Berri taste sensation.

Newsless out here – unless we get it from all y’all – but assume that the ISS 11 crew are now up with ISS 10 in their aggregation of tin cans and chicken wire apartment block – with Italian cheese too (thanks Ben -good to hear you’re back in residence)- lucky buggers. We’ve still got kilos of Old Bitey from Hobart. And we still have some Hobart bacon – it has lasted way beyond expectations.

We crossed the Tropic of Capricorn last night. WOOOHOOO. Progress is happening, but sooo slowly. Now sending some of these updates through Nova Scotia – XJN714, range about 4300 miles – just a little closer than Falmouth.

1-12. 26°S-Nose Brazil

Apr 18, 2005 – 2245hrs UTC

2245hrs 18 Apr 2005 UTC Map Ref 174

This will be a difficult one to write. It is half formed in my head and I’ll try and stumble through it and bring y’all along for the ride. Perhaps the old marathon analogy to start with: a marathon course is a 42.2 km stretch of (usually) roadway. No more, no less, especially if Steve Jackson measured it. What you then make of it depends on experience, training, attitude, planning and what you had for breakfast – in no special order. It is indifferent and intolerant – you start, you finish or you don’t. Whether you start is another decision and one that needs some bottle to make, occasionally. I’ve run (I think) 26 marathons and I have never started one convinced that I will finish it, but in each of them there has come a moment when I have known for certain that I will. It usually comes at around 30k but never ever before half way (ignore, for the purpose of this analogy, the Whitworth dictum that half way comes at 36k – that’s a mental rather than a metric concept).

So ever since about June last year, when I knew that my job was finished, this voyage has been in my mind. All the time – as a series of lists, of hurdles to clear (like registering the boat), jobs to do, planning, fixing and the thousands of little details any one of which could have been a showstopper before we started and still could be out here. It has been something that I have carried all the way, with a lot of help from Hilary, Pete, Stephen Jackson, Malcolm Robinson and many many others who have contributed with generosity and skill. But at no time have I ever dared to think about arriving in Falmouth. Rounding the Horn, arriving in the Falklands – milestones, but the job was still ahead. As it turned out, a reasonable position to take – any examination of our track and the logs from Stanley to here would show how hard it has been to get this far. We weren’t expecting 80 knots once, let alone twice, after Stanley and every stage of the trip from Hobart has tended to confound my expectations in some way. Research failure perhaps, but I imagine every experience of the journey would be different anyway.

All that changed this morning. The grib file forecast that the wind would go from zero to something, and the something would be from the east somewhere. And that’s what happened. We are in a SE breeze, just as forecast, making 6+ knots, faster in the right direction than at any time since the Horn – and the forecast says it’s with us at least as far as the equator. There’s lots of work to do, but I’m now convinced we will get to Falmouth barring the container ship in the night, which should be entirely avoidable. It’s a good feeling – the weight is really off and we can relax a bit for the first time since Sydney. So relax with us, eat your cornflakes and off to work, all y’all and have a beer with us later. And thanks for coming along this far – I don’t know how long you’ll have to hang on till Falmouth but watch this space. If anyone wants to register ETA predictions with Malcolm, I’ll shout the owner of the closest guess a six pack of Dr Coopers. All predictions to be in before we get to the Azores and the earliest best guess gets the goodies. No discussion will be entertained.

[ed: you can use the competition page to submit your estimates]

Thanks for the article, Stephen – Malcolm has OCR’d it and will send it to us. We cant receive anything but plain text.

Kim – I think they probably did tell it as it was for them – they had 37 (KC) to nearly 60 (FC, AR) ft boats with room to sit reasonably comfortably below without bracing and probably hadn’t had to cut up their cockpit cushions to make padding for a recalcitrant fuel tank. We have only the floor (cushionless) or our bunks to sit on/in below decks – this is a tiny boat by comparison. Generally, the bigger the boat, the easier the motion and we’re just the wrong length for the seas we’ve been pretending to get recently, hence our Fox Studios mock up bus shelter effort. Must have convinced some of you.

Must go and check for container ships out there in the studio.

1-12. 26°S-Nose Brazil

Apr 19, 2005 – 0400hrs UTC

0400hrs 19 Apr 2005 UTC Map Ref 175
[ed: brief admin update – posted the position because I thought it might help with your estimates of when they get to Falmouth]

1-12. 26°S-Nose Brazil

Apr 20, 2005 - 1100hrs UTC

1100hrs 20 Apr 2005 UTC Map Ref 176

It’s bite the bullet time out here for these little black ducks. We’re in the bottom of the trades, but way too far west – say 300 miles – as a result of the bashing we got further south. The SE trades become NE trades this close to S America so once again, we are hard on the wind. No way we can clear the NE corner and even if we could, it would not be easy once round. We can do just a bit better that Cook in the Endeavour in these conditions – perhaps 45 degrees off the wind – so we’re off on a losing tack just south of east towards Isla Martin Vaz to get us far enough out to pick up the true S Easterlies and give us some leverage. A bit frustrating but that’s the ball game. We’re looking at about two days of it, I think. Belt of huge rainstorms during the night didn’t help, with wind from all over the place and a very big ship looming out of the murk and losing itself again behind sheets of water. Cant ever assume they have seen us so we just get out of the way.

There was a moonbow too – lovely ghostly white arch down moon in front of a big black raincloud with just the hint of a spectrum around it. The whole internal area of the arch was ethereally white too. If there were angels up there, they’d have been blowing their trumpets sitting on the edge of it. I’ve only ever seen it once before, in a recent Hobart race and I think I wrote about it in one of the logs.

Tragedy struck yesterday – or more accurately, we discovered it – our ready use supply of The Doctor and other goodies in our stainless iceboxes have really got electrolysis and are going off fast – we had to throw a few dead ones and we now have a bucket full of corroded but still just ok cans that we have to get through real fast. Lesson for anyone listening – you have to protect them somehow if you store them in metal iceboxes for any length of time.

My ETA – guaranteed to be wrong – for Falmouth, as a guide for any punters, is June 4th @ 1200. Given our present situation, it is far too optimistic.

Malcom – that fellow Bligh who just got into Kupang – wasn’t he on TV or in the movies? There’s an old poster here in the studio. And thanks to you and the others who gave me the railway lines /parallel light rays explanation for the converging down sun effect the other evening. I’m not fully convinced – think about squirting parallel water at your dog with a hose – you dont get laminar flow around its body and the drops get scattered outwards and you can see this from the opposite side of the dog. I assumed I was seeing the reflections from the similarly cloud-scattered light but perhaps not.

Siobhan, Hi – Pete will answer your questions.

JJ, the dodger’s fine thanks – why would you want to change it? The boat is too small for a bigger one. This one deals with green water admirably too – the angle is right. And even I could run it faster!

Helga, Hi – sometimes York St has its attractions!.

Greg – glad to hear about prop (what sort of prop? how did you solve it) and mooring. We’ve been wondering how you and Firebird are faring

George, yes please – a mooring in Lymington from say mid july to Fastnet on 7 Aug would be grand – but we have very limited budget so would take whatever is available in the basement. Thanks.

Gary, well done – I dips me lid to any headbanger who can stick it out for 10 OZ Ironman races. But why? And why are we out here??

1-12. 26°S-Nose Brazil

Apr 21, 2005 -1100hrs UTC

1100hrs 21 Apr 2005 UTC Map Ref 177

Our dig out to sea yesterday paid off earlier that expected – the wind freed a bit in the evening and we were able to tack back on to a course parallel to the coast and abut 200 miles out. Still holding it this morning and fingers, toes and prehensile eyelashes firmly crossed. Still not easy but ok as long as the wind stays around 20 – 22 knots and the sea stays down. About a 1kt adverse current, as expected

Jan K, thanks for warning about tropical ulcers on the bum – exactly what I’ve been afraid of since we got on to the roller coaster down by Montevideo – seen them before and terrifying for us in this situation. I already have the little red blistery bumps and I’ve been doing a lot of standing with light airy pants and no undies. We have a couple of bits of foam rubber which work as pads under the thighs to transfer the pressure when we have to sit. No way of avoiding the motion of the boat though. I’m treating mine with metho and savlon, but there may be something more effective in the medical kit. Any suggestions? Burn cream? Betadine, if we can find it? Is there a doctor in the house? Michael G, if you’re still following the saga, could you please advise?

Not much else to report. Lots of flying fish, only one seabird in about two weeks, Portuguese Men O’ War around, Dinos in full bloom at night. I looked at the water yesterday in bright sunlight to see if they are visible – there is what looks like brown dust on the surface and tiny silvery reflections just below and as far down as I could see.

Bucket of scrofulous cans going down reasonably well but there’s a sensible limit to the rate of depletion – too many big ships around for comfort. Still using Hobart bacon and cheese, Falklands spuds and eggs and onions. Arlette’s dunkin’ shortbread still going too. Mungies germinating properly in the warmer climate too, as a bit of fresh protein. On to canned and dried food mostly and soaked dried fruit and muesli for breakfast. Cup of two teabag tea in the middle of the night for me and blast off coffee first thing.

Leroy and Salizhan return to earth on Monday. Looks as if we will not crack that rendezvous now – the moon is nearly full and there’s too much ambient light, even if Leroy has time to look out of his window, which I doubt. Berrimilla weighs about the same as the capsule that will bring them home.

Hope you’ve all got your party hats for tomorrow. 39 years ago, I was packing my suitcase to emigrate to Oz – we had a big farewell birthday party at home and a couple of weeks later, I was in Perth. Then Sydney after hitch-hiking across, then Brisbane with Adastra by the end of May. If anyone is interested in that particular hat, literally, have a look at www.adastra www.adastra.adastron.com .adastron.com. Fascinating record of a bit of Australian aviation history. Another link with NASA – Wally Borman bought one of the aircraft (the Mustang) after Adastra sold it.

1-12. 26°S-Nose Brazil

Apr 22, 2005 – 1330hrs UTC │Alex’s 63rd Birthday

1330hrs 22 Apr 2005 UTC 17’41”S 035’01”W Map Ref 178

A birthday quickie. Not having much fun out here. We seem to be locked in under the NE corner of Brazil and the weather or the Gods are conspiring to keep us here. The real trades are tantalisingly just over the horizon but we can’t break out of our little pattern and get up there. Once again biting the bullet and trucking east to try and find the freeing wind. Long way still to go. Tedious. Otherwise, nice birthday = spoke to Hilary, Katherine, Isabella and my mother – satphones are very seriously wonderful gadgets. Pete and I have just knocked over the last 2 bottles of Dr Coopers, vintage November ’04 and very special they were. Good quality of sludge in the brew too. Rum butter and soaked froot to go. WOOOHOOO.

The ETA guesses so far range from May 25 to June 9. Keep ‘em coming. June 9 is looking good!

[ed: There’s been one for much later than that but maybe Alex has put it out of his mind because it’s too horrible to contemplate :-)]

Kris – go to the brewery if you get a chance – the draught there is very special.

Woc – well done Cam. May be an omen somewhere – Cam Johnston was the stroke of the MUBC world champion coxless lightweight 4 when I was still playing back in about 1975. Go Cam. Don’t ever stop racing, no matter how hopeless it seems. Pessimists sometimes get nice surprises.

David – ta – see you soon.

Alex L don’t know what to say – but she’s a good boat- just a bit small for this undertaking.

Eggburger – glad you found us. We’ll do our best – you’d better be there.

1-12. 26°S-Nose Brazil

Apr 22 2005 - 1950hrs UTC

1950hrs 22 Apr 2005 UTC

Greetings all,
I have to answer a few questions.

Siobhan in sunny London asks “are you still enjoying it out there“.
Tonight I’m enjoying it,not so last night.

The same watch last night was a horror.We had lots of rain squalls, wind 5-35 kts from every direction short steep lumpy seas.The self steering couldn’t handle this so I hand steered standing in the rain.This watch starts with the moon going down and ends at dawn.In heavy cloud conditions it’s pitch black.Late in the watch I noticed the hint of a light to the left of our bow,you could only see it occasionally through the gloom.Thought it was a ship so switched on the radio ch.16.The light was steady on the bow but seemed to be moving left to right,then the light disappeared.Two things,it could in a rain squall or it could be something more sinister,a boat switching it’s lights off to avoid detection.I didn’t want to consider the second option,so altered course a little to the left and waited.Nothing on the radio and nothing sighted.After what seemed a bloody long time I had enough,I tacked the boat to port and moved 100 deg. further left. A little later it started to get light I looked astern and there emerging from the low cloud and gloom was this huge ship about a mile away. It was one of those modern box shaped slab sided grey megamonsters. The bit I enjoyed was watching him move quickly away from us. Was he aware of us I don’t know but at that distance we would definitely be a blip on his radar.

You seem concerned about other injuries and general miseries. Don’t be, all is well now ,Alex stubbed his big toe and later spent too long in the bath and ended up with grandpa fingers.

Other questions, are we worried about lightning.
Definitely but that result is in the lap of the gods. The mast and all major metal parts are earthed in the water via large earth plates. I think the boat will survive a strike,the problem is with the electronics they cannot handle a huge voltage surge we would lose gps,satphone,computer,HF radio,and all our instruments. Not a pleasant prospect but we could continue on using paper charts and celestial navigation which I have been practicing with good results. You also ask about problems now with the trade winds. In the seventies Jeanne and I were sensible and crossed the Atlantic and Pacific with the trades which blow from basically east to west behind us. We are now crossing the trades from south to north and because we are so far west now they are a headwind.

Your last question Berri’s longest voyage before this epic was about a thousand miles. Thanks Siobhan see you when we arrive.

John and Sherryl,congrats on the state title win,you deserve it. I didn’t see Sampi’s mark but those guys seem to have an uncanny knack of knowing where the ball will end up even before it’s kicked. They have a natural hand eye control perhaps this transfers in some way to a feel for the helm and what this is telling you about the boat’s speed direction etc.

Jeanne is in Perth at the moment visiting our daughter Eve who now lives there and is working on an oil rig offshore. From the emails they both love the west especially Margaret River area,Jeanne is due back in Sydney today teaching starts again Monday.

Woc when I get back I might take up rowing. Calm seas Mosman Rowers for G and T’s at sunset it all sounds good. We will definitely see you in England for a beer in July. Tell me Woc how was the sphincter performing during the three hour wait for the final result. Once again Cam congrats on a huge effort it must make all the work and pain worthwhile it’s a great honor to represent your country.

I have a question:

When is the dog watch,is it the one that finishes just before dawn. Why is it called the dog watch, is it something to do with the dog star visible in the northern latitudes?

[ed: responses are summarised here]

That’s all for now we’ll talk again later cheers Pete.

1-12. 26°S-Nose Brazil

Apr 23, 2005 - 0700hrs UTC

0700hrs 23 Apr 2005 UTC Map Ref 179

I’ve just crashed sailmail and lost the message I’d been working on for most of yesterday and tonight. So here goes all over:

Odd sort of birthday – from the sailing angle, no fun at all – becalmed most of the day in searing heat, boat a sweatbox, no escape. Redeemed by satphone calls from my family and the last 2 bottles of Dr Cooper’s special which we’d been cooling in our outside fridge ( a halyard bag hanging on the rail in the shade, bottles in a couple of wet socks, kept dampened, Coolgardie fashion. Works really well and cools by enough to make a big difference in yesterday’s heat). Still locked in by the wind pattern close in to the NE corner of Brazil – seems to be moving north at the same speed as we are and we just can’t break out.

We decided to park the boat last night and sleep – got her all snugged down and a little breeze came a-zephing along. Grew to about 18-20 kts and we were moving again – compass said 060, log said 6 knots. Huge pachydermatiferous lift of spirits. but only a tentative lower case wooohooo because the obsessively stern Examiner for this little headbang hasn’t let us stay happy for more that a few hours at a time.

Stunning, exhilararing night – almost full moon, right over head, some fluffy cumulus around, reflecting moonlight or etched around their edges as they passed across the moon – moon with spectral halo as the clouds passed (the night before, it had a huge misty halo, completely circular, radius perhaps 20 moon diameters – makes being out here rather special sometimes) and only first and second magnitude stars visible in the moonlight – just a wisp of the Milky Way around the Southern Cross. Light enough to read.

Later – I’ve been out there hand steering – we get little, tight local rain showers- often only 200 metres across, wind changes rapidly, Kevvo loses the plot and – usually – tacks us and needs rescuing. When the shower has passed, the wind drops to nothing for sometimes an hour or so and hand steering to keep the boat moving is the go. Gains all of a few boat lengths and I often wonder why we do it – psychologically better to be making progress, I suppose. All progress at the mo is right on the edge – hard on the wind and sometimes just heading to clear the corner of Brazil, sometimes not. The other tack is a definite loser but we may still need the bullet in the teeth later to get around. That Examiner again.

Lilian, thanks for birthday message and intercession with the Examiner – keep up the good work, we need all the help we can get!

Radio propagation abysmal, so you may not see this for some time.

1-12. 26°S-Nose Brazil

Apr 24, 2005 – 0400hrs UTC

0400hrs 24 Apr 2005 UTC Map Ref 180

Somewhat concerned – have not heard from Malcolm or the website for three days – hope all ok over there. Explains why we haven’t responded specifically to anything you nay have sent.

[ed: Alex satphoned this afternoon. Looks like all the stuff I’ve been sending for the last 3 days has ended up in a bit bucket somewhere. Nothing lost permanently but we need to sort the problem out before I start resending. Lot’s of good stuff in there too – including most of the birthday wishes – bugger]

Can it be that the Examiner has taken her eyes off the ball – or just decided to give us a break? Last night, today, tonight – nice breeze, still hard on but not uncomfortable, tracking to miss Brazil at Cape San Roque and meet the equator at about 28 west. In about a week. The gate seems to have cracked open enough to let us slip through. Too early to celebrate and anyway, we’re now in reduced Consultation mode here in the studio – can’t be convincing unless we’re a bit thirsty and we’re supposed to be on a Twocan per day regime. Anyone familiar with old advertising campaigns for the Doctor will appreciate the awfulness of that one…

Sunset – you have to be here to appreciate the beauty of it all – layers of cloud from high, irregular cirrus and altostratus – mot much more than mist, some tasselly mid layer clouds and a few of the usual rain bearing cumulus around the horizon with interesting shapes. Vivid iridescent silver blue background low in the west, deepening to inky grey over the top and down to the east. Flaming pink and orange and red on the clouds, orange low in the west going pink then red – and all around the northern horizon, grey silhouetted clouds low down opening into the distant universe through pink and orange haze. Quite nice really.

And the moon – one day from full – already up in the east with a halo through the haze.

Later – still clocking better than 5 kts, still heading east of 30 at the equator. wooohooo. Now have a grib file from the equator to 10 deg north – the NE trades look a bit fearsome – mostly N with very little E and about 25 – 30 knots, so at least 600 miles of hard slog when we get up there. Quite small windless belt at the equator – fingers etc. once again crossed.

One visit from a seabird – probably the same one. Greyish, a bit hawklike, white bands on outer ends of wings.

Both Bums still cause for concern but we think perhaps under control. Doing a lot of standing and awkward perching to keep the weight off the pointy bits. Boat’s motion relatively easy now, but not looking forward to NE trades.

1-12. 26°S-Nose Brazil

Apr 25, 2005 - 0000hrs UTC

0000hrs 25 Apr 2005 UTC Map Ref 181

We’ve been sitting on our milk crates here in the studio wondering what’s happened to the old geezer who trundles over with a trolley with printouts of all your emails to the website. He hasn’t been since the 21st, so no mail since then. But he just turned up with a few scraps of paper and we think there must have been a problem with Sailmail. There is still a lot missing, but sailmail are pretty good and nothing gets lost when the wires come down – just delayed – so we’ve heaps to look forward to.

Meantime, it really does look as if the gates are creaking open enough to let us through. The Examiner has something else up her sleeve, no doubt – perhaps the NE trades. We’re hooning along at 6-7 knots towards the equator, hot, dry, fingernails and bums coming good, hands drying out – and flaking a bit – and now on subsistence rations of Medicinal Compound. But we’re made of stern stuff here in the studio – we shall overcome! Whatever happened to Joan Baez? Sensibly retired, perhaps and no comebacks.

Lots to report, but will wait till we get another delivery from the old geezer’s trolley so we can respond if anyone has bothered to write.

Meantime, Happy Birthday to Hilary’s Aunty Gladys, who was 94 last week – sorry we missed it, Gladys – thought it was this week.

And it’s ‘Be kind to Fenwick’ week. Hi Allan – so what’s a Kreng then? We’ll try really really hard to respect your feelings and not be rude to you. Difficult, but.

And here comes the trolley man with our printouts – goody. Wooohooo – lots of mail and we may be back in business. Dog watches – thanks everyone and Patrick O’Brian surely must have been joking – even he couldn’t be serious about curtailed? Could he? I’ve never managed to get past the first couple of pages of any of his books, so not able to judge. I’ve been reading Colin Dexter (Inspector Morse) who flaunts his scholarship with such flair and humour – I love it when people with something to brag about do it so well. Some of his quotations to follow – relevant to this little excursion.

Special thanks to Michael G re tropical ulcers. We seem to be getting on top of them, so to speak, but your advice re padding etc really useful. We have 28 tabs Vibramycin and also Cephalexin (not sure what this is for – and our notes got a bit mangled in the knockdown). Unable to get Cicatrin powder any more, unfortunately – that would have fixed an elephant.

On yer bike, Ron – I cant remember what happened yesterday let alone enough for a biography. Should have got on to me before senility set in. Or was it the effects of too many Consultations?

More later – must check the proscenium for container ships, cleen ze teef and sleep for my three hours.

Quote for the day:
Quickly, bring me a beaker of wine so I may wet my mind and say something clever.
(Aristophanes, quoted in Dexter, Colin, Death is now my neighbour, Pan, London 1996)

1-12. 26°S-Nose Brazil

Apr 25, 2005 – 1430hrs UTC

1430hrs 25 Apr 2005 UTC Map Ref 182

Long list of acknowledgements – Thanks to everyone who mailed us over the last few days – Ian & Maggie, Olivia, Tricia, Johnny B ((thanks for the morale booster – coming from you, dems fightin’ woids), Arlette, RichardD (Pete will write to you) Phil, Hilary, MG, K&C, TimV, – and, of course, Fenwick of the tender feelings to whom we must be ever kind. Hilary sent us some information from the Whitbread site about bum/nappy rash and ulcers – basically, keep it clean, dry and out in the sun – apparently there are some gruesome photos. Essentially, that’s what we are doing.

It is a capital mistake to theorise before one has data (Arthur Conan Doyle, quoted by Dexter, op.cit.). I should never speculate about the Examiner. She’s got us in a band of rain showers and low cloud – windless except under and around the showers, hot, humid, water 29+ degrees. Spent the night in party gear hand steering all over the studio floor from one squall to the next – snaking slowly north but doing it really hard. Sun may change things but not looking helpful just now. Astonishing how quickly the change came in last night – brilliant full moon, clear sky, went below for ten minutes to send message and came up to 8/8 overcast, big rain showers all around. Where does it come from??

Pete saw a pod of whales this morning. He thinks they were pilot whales. By the time I’d got on deck, they had gone.

This update will increment as the day progresses – must go on deck and sort Kevvo. He doesn’t like not having any wind – neither do I. Cloud now gone, endless blue, burning sun (hot from sunrise onwards – real tropical weather.) New grib file looks grim – no wind worth having for at least three days. Risking a bit of diesel to try to get into some wind further north. Will give it 10 hours only, then we wallow for as long as it takes.

Next hurdle for me is the equator – mental and physical – still more than 800 miles away and we’re hurtling towards it at a very slow walking pace. It’s looking to be a long process and the gate sure isn’t open yet. We still need to get 500 miles north to clear Cabo de San Roque. The Examiner’s technique seems to be alternating elation and depression to chip away at the psyche. Won’t work, kiddo.

25/1300 Just tried sailmail – no way I can send this at the mo and probably not for at least 4 hours, so I’ll save it and add as we go.

1430 – glassy calm, some more rain around, so a possibility of wind…Will try sailmail again. Sent one of these through sailmail Belgium yesterday, which must be a milestone of sorts.

1-12. 26°S-Nose Brazil

Apr 26, 2005 – 0300hrs UTC

0300hrs 26 Apr 2005 UTC Map Ref 183

HF radio has intermittent fault. Would not turn on earlier – will try to trace, meantime pse carry on as normal…

[ed: this message was probably meant for me but, thinking about it, I reckon it’s probably good advice for everyone!]

1-12. 26°S-Nose Brazil

Apr 26, 2005 - 1240hrs UTC

1240hrs 26 Apr 2005 UTC Map Ref 184

Relevant Sunday Times crossword clue clue for all y’all, courtesy of my sister: “Howling wind that delights the shopkeeper” 7,5. A pity ours isn’t! I will post the answer if anyone is driven mad by it.

Panic last night – HF radio would not switch on – decided to leave it till daylight then check connections, fuses etc, but then it came on all by itself – no idea what is going on but now a source of tension every time I press the power button. We are in a mess without it as far as all this email goes and would have to rely in SatcomC at 1c/keystroke. Very short updates!. Reluctant to fiddle with it as long as it is still working. Anyone else out there with an ICOM M802 HF with a similar experience? Is there an overheat cut off? A surge cutoff? Will have to read the manual carefully.

We are still moving slowly more or less north, pointing now at Recife, but hoping for a lift (to the right, or east) to get us round the corner in a few days. Not looking promising. Trying really hard not to look at the GPS calculator in SoB as the equator seems to recede into the distance as we move north. Initium est dimidium facti…not! (Dexter again – wonder if that’s his real name)

SimonB, would it be possible to set up the track data as a sort of interactive CD so that people reading any subsequent book could look at relevant days and see what happened in detail? I’m renaming the track text file now every month or so and will save to gigastik – started to read the instructions!

Malcom – I remember talking about the Baffin Island marathon, but we haven’t had an email from you which mentions it – if you sent one, it may have got lost somewhere unless I missed it somehow in the Falklands flurry. As for change in emphasis, I suppose my view of the world changes as we move north. The Horn was a huge barrier, just as is the equator but without the added dread, so Falmouth is much more the focus than is the daily routine. We still bake bread, but it gets awful hot in the cabin during the day even with everything open (not always possible) so perhaps not as often as before. And it hardly seems like news! The desalinator is on whenever the engine is running, but we have enough water to get us home without it. As for wiggly amps, the fine pitch turbine with its broken blade still puts out more power than the coarse, and BP Solar is great in full sunlight, giving about 4 amps, but not so good under cloud. We have enough with both to get by without diesel. Hard to judge exactly, but I think we have about 100 ltrs of diesel left – not really enough but we cant carry anything like enough in a boat this size. 6 jerry cans and a 45 ltr aux tank in the cockpit plus the main tank take up a lot of space.

Barry, thanks for bum stuff – we hope all now under control, but still needs care and attention.

jennifer, I’ll write to you separately, but thanks for Anzac Day note. Glad to hear Leroy, Salizhan and snails home safe. Haven’t heard from ISS 11 crew but we live in hope! They have our number. Our contact with the ISS seems to have touched the imaginations of just about everyone we have heard from – certainly grabbed ours – and there’s a kid in the Falklands who thought it was the coolest thing ever that people he knew spoke to spacemen. I hope he goes off and gets a first in physics and maths! We’re working on a longer term plan with Leroy to build on the interest and to recognise his contribution. Y’all will be the first to know if we can pull the right strings. I think your depressing ETA estimate is closer than mine, but as for the book on shipping Berri home – put your house on the negative – you obviously haven’t seen my bank balance. Orandum est ut sit mens sana in corpore sano – engagingly translated as “our aim? just a brain that’s not addled with pox, and a clean bill of health from the docs” (more Dexter) – and we’ll sail. There is a sort of integrity in the original plan which would be completely lost if we fail to try.

And for all the runners out there who swear by ASICS shoes – Anima Sana In Corpore Sano is a different version – a sound mind in a healthy body.

Here endeth patronising for the day.

1-12. 26°S-Nose Brazil

Apr 26, 2005 – 2245hrs UTC

2245hrs 26 Apr 2005 UTC Map Ref 185

Everything that can ever be said about the night sky has been said somewhere. I have just spent a mesmerising hour on deck, about two hours after sunset, no moon to start with, but the whole of the Great Bear – all 7 stars – low on the northern horizon, upside down of course and with the Southern Cross at about 30 degrees in the south. We were bisecting the line between them going east. Magic all on its own. Then the moon rose – huge, golden red, its deep burnish on the water on our starboard bow as if we are sailing along its edge into the light. Phosphorescence all around the boat. Bear and Cross fading as the moon rises but still visible. One of life’s great rewards. WOOOHOOO! Worth a Consultation even though we’re absteeming.

1-12. 26°S-Nose Brazil

Apr 27, 2005 – 0820hrs UTC

0820hrs 27 Apr 2005 UTC Map Ref 186

We are about to enter day 33 of this leg so we’ve been at sea for just over a month. Perhaps a few numbers are worth putting down. On a voyage like this, it doesn’t make much sense to talk about half way in miles or days – you can do it directly off the chart, in which case, half way is at about 2 degrees south, given that the Falklands are at about 55 south and Falmouth is at 50 north. The size of the job ahead was driven home earlier this evening as I looked with some fondness at the Great Bear – now upside down in the bottom 15 degrees or so of the northern horizon. We have to climb around the globe underneath it till it is right way up in the bottom 40 degrees or so of our then southern horizon. Imagine, if you can, being a very small flea on its daily stroll from its home in the crease at the top of an elephant’s hind leg, around the vast expanse of rump through the skin flakes, hair, dried grot  and other wild life into its sunbaking spot in the sun up above the tail. That’s us, and we haven’t yet quite reached the vertical part of the rump – we’re still ‘underneath’ the curve.

We will actually sail perhaps 30% more than the chart distance. Our GPS trip log reads 3413 miles – slightly under the actual, as the GPS was off for a few miles. The autohelm ‘through the water’ log distance travelled is 3634 miles (also slightly under – perhaps 20 miles) and we are 2740 miles from Port Stanley in a straight line. We are also 4030 from Falmouth in a straight line. Half of (2740+4030) 6770 is 3385 miles, so we are still 322 miles, roughly, from half way in straight lines. We estimated 70 days so we are a bit behind schedule but not too bad, and I hope the North Atlantic is a bit kinder that the South has been. Say another 33 days – and June 4 is looking good.

At 1209 deg. south, we are 729 miles from the equator. Still! That will put us officially half way round the world. Perhaps the Examiner will relent a little as we go north. Right now, we are heading east and just – just – holding the line and not losing ground. When we tack, in about 12 hours or when the wind heads us, we should be pointing at the equator at about 33 west. We are much too far away to predict whether we will be able to aim straight for the Azores  on a true NE wind or have to go further west with the more Northerly component of the NE trades which seems to dominate up there at the moment.

Have I bored you all glassy eyed? All this factored into the return trip to Sydney makes our enterprise look very shaky indeed. To get back in time for the Hobart race, we must average a bit under 5 knots for the return voyage – we will need a very slack Examiner and a lot of luck but it is just possible. About 0.1 probability, perhaps. Anyone care to run a book?

And, in the words of a wise old bird not far from BrisVegas, mental half way for the whole venture (Sydney to Sydney) will be at Cape Leeuwin. Seems to be at about 40k in marathon terms, so about right!

1-12. 26°S-Nose Brazil

Apr 28, 2005 - 0000hrs UTC

0000hrs 28 Apr 2005 UTC Map Ref 187

On numbers, continued from the last one, I overlooked the fact that Hobart is nearly 4 degrees west of Sydney, at 147 degrees E, so we had already sailed more than 180 degrees – half way round by longitude – when we crossed 33 W and whenever we cross the equator, we are half way around in fact. Woohoo. Lower case still.

And I’ve just pulled in another grib file and iff (= if and only if) it is accurate, we’re outta here and on our bikes. We are now just the right side of the pattern and the grib predicts a big veer (clockwise change in wind direction, bringing it further behind us so making it easier to go north) tomorrow and the next day, with an increase in strength. Can’t help feeling that the Examiner hasn’t yet relented, so looking for the hidden meaning. All y’all, cross fingers, toes and eyelashes pliz.

The guest book is up, according to your suggestions – please stick your monikers therein for us. Big thanks. And thanks Malcolm for getting it together.

[ed: Gust Book is here]

Another of your suggestions – from many of you -is that we should turn this into some sort of book. I’m a bit tentative, but perhaps you could think about how to do it and give us some ideas. The material available is

- these logs, mostly Alex, the raw immediacy stuff, pain, fear, elation and the up front descriptions for your breakfast tables,(really, my diary of the trip – don’t have the emotional energy to hand write one as well)

- Pete’s handwritten journal – I haven’t read it, but I suspect it’s much more introspective, analytical and generally thoughtful and has details about sail changes, wind, food etc. – perfect foil for my stuff, with a bit of luck

- The archive of weather maps, grib files (if we can reproduce them) weather faxes from west of the Horn and the global track charts all from the website

- the full GPS track data from SoftwareonBoard which we could perhaps turn into an interactive CD or just reproduce the track in very large scale for the interesting bits, like the knockdowns and storms

- your emails, or as many of them as you might allow us to print. They would fill in the background for a lot of the updates

- some photos and video – not, unfortunately, of the really bad stuff or the more interesting bits like really hairy sail changes on a heaving rolling pitching foredeck with the spreader lights and the orange storm jib adding a lairy glow to the sheets of water passing by – no opportunity to record and not really what either of us wanted to do in the storms anyway. Sad, but there it is.

- and I have a recording of our first conversation with Leroy Chiao, which we will ask him for permission to use.

I’m just waiting for the moon to rise – tonight we’re heading directly for the point where the Pole star will rise in a week or so – Great Bear across the sky to the north, Cross behind us and Orion low in the west. More magic, especially as it’s very dark still and the stars are vivid and go deeep into the universe and time.

Hi Vivian – great to hear from you – glad you liked the description. You would be looking at the Great Bear from the right side!

1-12. 26°S-Nose Brazil

Apr 28, 2005 – 0010hrs UTC

Hello to all out there,

For us the long awaited SE trades seem to be the NE trades. We sailed east a lot of yesterday and all last night to get a better angle for the final assault to slide past the large bump on the NE corner of Brazil. It’s hard to imagine that we have passed some of the most interesting cities like Buenos Aires, Montevideo and Rio and not had a refreshment stop.  Last night I was reading some of the daily journal that I’ve been writing I’ll quote some of it now, this was written on Monday April 11   ” For the last two days whenever I’ve been looking at our position on the computer chart I’ve been amazed at how the boat seems to be pulled towards Rio. The computer produces a beautiful coloured chart of South America and the Atlantic, our position is given at the end of an arrow which points in the direction we are heading. The length of the arrow indicates the speed of the boat so this arrow surges back and forth with the changes in boat speed as we go through waves while progressing to windward. Looking at it reminds me of a dog on a leash dragging the owner to where it wants to go.  Is this like the call of the Sirens of old trying to lead us to the fleshpots of Rio.” Of course we did not stop but we could have invented a stop giving lurid details of our stay which may have entertained some of you but we must remember that we also cater to a young and impressionable audience so decorum must reign. Just as an aside I think if we had gone for the boobs bums and beaches option it would not have lasted long with our bums in such a sorry state we would have been quickly removed from the beach as a health hazard. A virtual stop would have helped to explain our slow progress   ahhh  well, I’m sure Alan Fenwick would have enjoyed a rather more racey version of this part of the journey.

We havn’t seen much wildlife recently, there has been one bird visiting us for brief periods the last few days though.  The bird is brown/grey in colour, it has white dots along the leading edge of it’s wings looks a little like aboriginal dot painting ( perhaps I have got this wrong it might have spent last night perched under another bird ).It’s larger than a seagull and smaller than a young albatross. Just before dawn a couple of days ago a pod of about 6 pilot whales casually swam across our bow then sounded. On the last voyage across the Pacific (nearly 30 years ago,time to do that again) pilot whales would swim next to the boat for hours at a time, I think this was in the area of the Galapagos Islands.

Life on board at the moment is divided by the day/night extremes. At night the sailing is beautiful, soft warm breeze, clear skies loaded with stars. Last night was special, we were sailing east and with an almost full moon above so we had this glittering silver highway to sail down. During the day things are not so good. It’s a lot hotter, water temp is now 30 deg and who knows what the air temp is, perhaps 40 maybe 50 in the sun. The wind is generally stronger than at night so boat goes faster, more water over the deck so hatches have to be closed. In these conditions almost impossible to sleep during the day so we survive on about 5 hours sleep you can manage during the two off night watches. I’m writing this at night and our course has lifted about 40 deg since sundown, this might be the wind we have been waiting for.

Many thanks for all your emails on ” dogwatch “. I still want to know about the dog star and the hot humid days in summer when it was visible were known as dog days, I’m sure this was mentioned in old Greek writings.

Richard D thanks for the letter. No I’m not the Peter Crozier you worked with at Macquarie Uni. but this leads to a little research required on the name Crozier.

Francis Crozier was in command of a ship called the Terror which along with the Erebus captained by Ross completed a British expedition to the Antarctic in the 1840’s. The Terror and Erebus had visited the Falklands so I checked the museum and archives. There was no information except some letters from Ross to officials complaining about the quality and high cost of provisions, funny how nothing really changes. Any information you could find on Crozier would be helpful.

I had best end here I’ve exceeded my limit.        Cheers Pete.

1-12. 26°S-Nose Brazil

Apr 28, 2005 – 1200hrs UTC

1200hrs 28 Apr 2005 UTC Map Ref 188

It’s beginning to look just a teensy bit promising – we may just be on our bikes and on the way but with this particular Examiner, ain’t nothing certain – I can sense her presence everywhere. And, I suppose by some sort of freudian association, are you out there Ma’am, reading this nonsense and, if so, please give us a blast – be good to hear how you are getting on. Otherwise, Gerry, report please – I’ll write to you separately anyway – grib is interesting and basically very accurate as long as you understand what you are looking at. Took us some time.

Writing this in the early morning, local time – sun about 15 degrees, really hot already – I’m running with sweat at the nav table and the laptop is hot to the touch. Not helped by having the Cone of Silence partly lowered to be safe. Pete trying to sleep – we have both hatches cracked open but not enough to get any real draught through the boat. There’s a bit too much spray over the deck. Means we’re moving – at about 6 kts. Woohoo.

We are now north of Australia. Sort of a lonely feeling – really out on our own. We’ve gone most of the way up the eastern coast of S. America out of sight of land, about 10 ships, all but one in the night (because of their navigation lights – they are much harder to spot during the day if more than a couple of miles away) and no other sign of teeming humanity just over the horizon. We’ve heard stories about the coast from the NE corner westwards and we intend to stay well outside the Arquipelago de Fernando de Noronha, just in case. As we track now, we’ll do it in one, but it may need another tack east later.

And we’re far enough out from the coast once again for the ISS 11 crew, John Phillips and Serguei Krikalev, to be our nearest neighbours for a few moments each day. We’re hoping to hear from them, but obviously we ought not expect anything.

Sal – best wishes to you and the Keyclowns and to Tom and Luca. How goes +16? T & L, this is worth doing one day if it grabs you, but remember that it’s mostly planning and preparation, a lot of tedium and just a few scary bits. Hombre apercebido medio combatido – Don Quixote – Dexter again.

Doug M – thanks for the historical detail -I knew about the Lightning  but not the string of associations. Perhaps you could find out a bit more about Francis Crozier for Pete. Apparently a fairly common name in Ireland – interesting to know whether there’s a connection there too.

David – aiming for the equator on your birthday – but you know how it is – could be a week late…no way we’ll be early.

And for the punters, Malcolm will put all the ETA’s on the website, unidentified. There is a very faint possibility that we may do a 24 hour pit stop (diesel and grog!) in the Azores. Not if I can help it and not if the wind and the Examiner are kind to us. I might consider adjusting he earlier guesses – or maybe not – the Examiner is frowning.

1-12. 26°S-Nose Brazil

Apr 28, 2005 - 2330hrs UTC

2330hrs 28 Apr 2005 UTC Map Ref 189

I will try to describe how it feels to be sailing through the night out here. No Moon, yet not dark. I’m standing in the cockpit, leaning on the dodger, 18 knots of breeze in my face and Berri moving through the water at 6+ knots, surrounded by phosphorescence with the occasional wave hitting the bows and throwing spray outwards – there isn’t quite enough wind to blow it back across the boat and we’ve, rather riskily, got the hatches open else the heat below is too much to sleep in. It feels as if I’m the only person alive, fixed in the centre of a huge black disc with a defined, yet indistinct edge just below eye level all around me. There’s a lovely line in Omar Khayyam that starts ‘Morning in the bowl of night..’ – wish I could remember it all – and it’s absolutely like that – the Bowl of Night is a pale glowing dome rising from the edge of the disc and almost solid with stars – some so densely packed that they really do seem to be touching, with the brighter ones and the constellations vivid and sparkling – seemingly in the foreground. A journey through time. The layer just above the edge of the disc is starless – there must be haze in the lower atmosphere. The Milky Way is a wavy slash of intensely packed stars and gas behind and above me, Orion low in the west, the Cross up in the Milky Way and the Great Bear every night a bit higher in the North – a measure of our progress. Stunning – exhilarating – utterly breathtaking – where are the gutsy adjectives?

That’s the high side – there is also the aching slowness of it all – technology allows me to see instantly the whole journey in pretty colours on this screen – and our daily progress as such a tiny part of it – we’re still nearly 600 miles  – almost a whole Hobart race – south of the Equator and, while in the bigger perspective that’s pretty small beer, in the reality of the moment it’s a hell of a long distance and an age away. So it isn’t all elation – it is very hard to maintain the balance between joy and – not despair, but something like listless abandonment of care. Does that make sense? Not even sure that it does to me but worth a go.

Wildlife – more stunning beauty. Today we saw three – only – huge Portuguese Men o’ War. They seemed to be about 120 mm long, not quite semicircular with one end tapering towards a point. The bubble was purple/mauve tinted and the sail the same, in glassy clear membrane. The outside rim of the sail – perhaps 15 – 20 mm wide was crinkly, frilly and brilliant cherry pink (magenta?) and seemed to have silvery flecks. Long tendrils under water, also coloured and appeared to reflect in places. The three were not close together – miles apart in fact, but wonderful to look at and very scary to be anywhere near in the water.

That’s quite enough puff for tonight.

1-12. 26°S-Nose Brazil

Apr 29, 2005 – 1100hrs UTC

1100hrs 29 Apr 2005 UTC Map Ref 190

A little homily.

I would normally run this whole email operation through the Chile Sailmail station – more or less just up the road and always in a reasonable propagation situation. However, Chile has been down for about a month and I’ve had to work any of about a dozen other stations around the western hemisphere, mostly at extreme range and in desperately poor propagation circumstances – Newfoundland, Mozambique, Belgium, Mexico, Panama, for instance. It can take 20 minutes to download a ten line email and it sometimes drops out right at the end. Imagine then my frustration when it eventually comes in and there are signature blocks, commercial caveats, addresses and all the guff that we really don’t need out here taking up more space than the email itself.

PLEASE don’t send emails to our sailmail address. Use the website.

And don’t get me wrong – we love getting your emails. For me the high point of every day is opening Mal’s mail calls.

After last night’s puffery, daytime out here is just awful. Berri is a little sweatbox with the hatches closed and for a lot of the day there’s no shade and we have to hand steer for the 6 hours or so that the wind drops to 5 knots – as I suspected, the Examiner still peers over our shoulders. I’m running with sweat, there’s no air and we can’t sleep either. Tropics shmopics – never again will I venture north of Lord Howe once we get back. This confirms all my worst prejudices. It’s even worse than being in an aircraft carrier in the Red Sea because of the restricted space and at least there you could have a fan. But we’re moving ever further north.

1-12. 26°S-Nose Brazil

Apr 29, 2005 - 2300hrs UTC │Hole in the Milky Way I

2300hrs 29 Apr 2005 UTC Map Ref 191

Thanks to Barry D., here it is in full:

Edward Fitzgerald’s translation of Omar Khaiyyam’s verse, DAWN.

Awake! For morning in the bowl of night,

Has flung the stone that puts the stars to flight:

And lo! The hunter of the east has caught,

The Sultan’s turret in a noose of light.

[ed: There’s actually been a subsequent response that includes another 5 verses here]

I think Fitzgerald was on to something there. I expect he could have knocked off a Guardian Weekly crossword in about 5 minutes too. Bastard. Makes a bloke feel about as adequate as a Golgafrinchan Telephone Sanitiser. JJ, fascinated to hear about the new HGTTG movie. Will try to find it when we get there.

We are bean reaching more or less straight up 31 west at about 7 knots in about 25 and a lumpy sea with a water temp of 29.5 degrees. Lovely to ge going north again at a good speed – thought we’d ever get going again at one stage. We’ve discovered that Berri has one huge deficiency – she doesn’t have Dorade vents. These are big scoopy ventilators that force air into the boat but keep water out. I put in hatches on the coachroof for ventilation and access – ok in Sydney but up here, in these conditions, they just scoop in all the masses of water that blows and flows over the deck and we have to keep them closed. Consequently, there’s no air movement inside and in these temperatures, it’s quite unlivable. I go below to try to sleep and I’m running with sweat in about 90 seconds – no hope of sleeping whatever. Big problem. We’ve improvised little scoops over the little plastic air vents but inadequate. I’m going to have to sleep in the cockpit for the next few weeks if this continues.

Question for the astronomers – there’s an area of darkness next to the Southern Cross that seems to have no stars and almost no light coming from it. It is between the two stars on the long side next to the pointers, roughly oval and about the size of the Cross itself. I thought it was a cloud yesterday, but it’s still there today. Looks as if there’s a hole in the Milky way – it this all it is?

El, great to hear from you and glad things are going OK – say Hi to himself.

Lovely joke Kim – really should be shared but perhaps not!

Yo the Vettery – thanks for the photo which Mal described to us – I think Titan Uranus should be our new motto. Needs a T shirt. For the uninitiated, Malcolm will post the photo.

[ed: here is the photo](broken link)

Rowley, talk to Marty Andersen at RPA – he installed our radio and modem and all the other goodies. Berri was in Coffs as Leven for a few years before I bought her.

George, didn’t know you are in the business of books – please run the idea past your contacts and see if there are any bites.

RANSA Doug, don’t get put off cruising by our experiences – we had to go to some pretty funny places to get the weather we did and we sort of deserved what we got!

Hi Kees – have a good dinner – we’ll be thinking of you.

1-13. Across the Equator

Apr 30, 2005 - 0300hrs UTC

0300hrs 30 Apr 2005 UTC Map Ref 192

It’s just before dawn and we’ve had a great night’s run making 6-7.5 kts all in the right direction, aiming to hit the equator at 30 W. Beautiful sky at the moment all orange,pink and grey the edges of some low cloud etched in brilliant white. There is also a rainbow in the low cloud opposite to the west.

It looks like another hot one today. Yesterday the wind dropped out with the heat about noon and our boat speed sank to 2-3 kts. I just hope the wind holds today.

I just read what I have written and it could be Alex’s work. Have I caught emailspeak? Perhaps the computer has the virus. I just might do that first paragraph in the matter of fact prose of young Jim Cook. “The early sky to the east suggested a fine day with fair winds. I have ordered a flogging at noon, gross insubordination again during the night watch. Otherwise all is well on board.” Now that felt much better especially about letting the cat out of the bag.

Phil H. Thanks for your research on dogday/star, the red wine reference was interesting.

Tim. When Sarah returned from Germany she delighted in telling me that if I ever gained the title of Grand Father, in German I’d be called a ” gros farter ” doesn’t have the same ring does it.

George. I’ve replaced that aerial before, the top section broke before so the bottom bit may be on board but I doubt it. I bought it at Whitworth’s take the top piece with you to get a match. Any news yet on a berth in Lymington.

Luke thanks for the quick response all is forgiven.

Eve Keep your head high. I know you’ll make the right decision.

1-13. Across the Equator

Apr 30, 2005 - 2300hrs UTC

2300hrs 30 Apr 2005 UTC Map Ref 193

Just hangin’ in out here – the wind keeps threatening to drop out but we live in hope. We are just into day 36 from Stanley – half our predicted 70 days – and we’re about 200 miles short of straight line half way which is just south of 2 degrees south.

So approximately 2 days behind schedule. Not bad, considering the setbacks earlier. I’m still going for June 4 for Falmouth.

David, we will be about a day late at the equator if the wind hangs in, but we’ll have a Consultation on the day in your honour anyway.

Thanks to everyone who has filled in the Gust book – it’s a whole lot more personal for us if we can put some faces to all the people who must be out there sharing this with us and adding to the hit count. A couple of nice surprises already. Tory, course you can email us – I do remember. Please report on HGTTG movie.

Wildlife: First flying fish – Pete had it for lunch – I don’t like them much – too oily. Occasional seabirds, but they dont hang around. The hawk like feller that was around a week or so keeps coming to visit, has a look and goes away. And a couple more of those big Portuguese Men o’ War – updated description: these ones have their whole sail inflated, they seem from 5 meters or so away to have a blueish veined pattern on the clear part of the membrane and they have a curved row of pink comma shaped flecks half way up each side. The colour is perhaps more salmony pink with a touch of mauve. Delicate, lethal beauty. Never more than one and many miles apart. And Pete was frolicced by a pod of dolphins this afternoon.

Busy day – big container ship passed about a mile away going south and, for the first time since we left Sydney, I saw an aircraft this evening, very high, flying north on a line between Rio and Europe. There are other humans out here!

Otherwise, rather boring – but we are really putting in the miles – such a good feeling after our snailing along for weeks. Full main and #1, beam reach, somewhere between 18 & 25 knots giving us 6.5 to 7. Occasional rain showers pass us by, nothing fierce, and a reasonable sea. Our makeshift Dorade ventilator system is working and it’s bearable again – still very hot especially in the middle of the day. Great Bear climbing the northern sky. A few potatoes left, and an onion from the Falklands, Hobart and Falklands bacon finished, still have a couple of dozen eggs, but in this heat, they may not be coping too well. And we’re rationing Consultative medications – tonight’s G & T was sublime.

Good luck with the 2 hander, Malcolm. We’ve been thinking about the assy (assymetric spinnaker) but don’t really need it – we now have to cross the equator and go back on the wind in the NE trades which seem to be more NNE – they should take us well to the west of the Azores in a couple of thousand miles, I hope safely into the back of the Azores high with a wind all the way to Falmouth. But thats weeks away.

Another stunning night – just a bit hazy – no moon till early morning.

[ed: The following was sent half an hour after the previous one so I combined them]

I’m losing the plot – this one should have been part of the last one.

Thoughts on doing a book – most of your comments seem to favour the idea – except one, with which I tend to agree. The sheer volume of stuff and the variety of media would require an enormous quantity of work and specialised skills to get it together and it would be prohibitively expensive. Frinstance, we’re up to sailmail no 1722 that I have generated since we left Sydney, and the inbox has 662 messages. That’s without Pete’s daily journal or any of the other material. Volunteers to put it together? I can actually see how it could be combined into a big format book with most of the stuff in it, but it would be huge. Would need a ruthless editor and would almost certainly end up too expensive for your average punter.

Colin B – I think Titan Uranus would be exactly the right motto for the masthead of The BOG Paper. Interesting problem for the Royal College of Heralds – how do you put a Sphincter Couchant (Rampant? Clenche’?) Rouge into a coat of arms? Harrrumph!

We have a work-around for the ventilation problem – we’ll try it when daylight comes – basically stretching an awning acrsoo the big hatch at the correct angle – should work – had better work!

Hi Teena – look forward to the Rowers one day soon.

John C – thanks for Fitzgerald – I’ve actually seen a comparison of his 12 translations and its easy to wonder how he could start with the same text and come up with so many versions in English. Wonderful wordsmith though.

Doug & Estelle – thanks for Crozier stuff – I’d forgotten he was with Franklin – there’s an interesting book about the discovery of a couple of early graves from that expedition, with the corpses deep frozen and amazingly preserved, complete with autopsy incisions. They seem to have died of lead poisoning from the food cans which were sealed with lead.

1-13. Across the Equator

May 01, 2005 - 1020hrs UTC

1020hrs 01 May 2005 UTC Map Ref 194

Honoured Gusts, Readers and Occasional Browsers, Greetings. Those among you who have had difficulty with jokes about Golgafrinchan Telephone Sanitisers and Marvin and the like – go and see the new Hitchhiker’s Guide to the Galaxy movie and all will be made clear. Can’t wait to see it myself.

North of Cabo de San Roque at last. Straight line half way to Falmouth will be just after we pass Isla Fernando de Noronha sometime tomorrow if the wind holds and we should cross the equator on May 3. Another half way.

I have never spent a series of consecutive nights at sea on watch and on cloudless nights, so had not experienced the Earth’s rotation as a physical sensation. Interesting – one is suddenly a very small part of the universe in a much more intimate and personal sense. It is especially apparent here almost on the equator. THe Great Bear and the Southern Cross are each offset from the axis of rotation by about the same amount – about 20 degrees at a guess – and is is easy to see that the earth rotates between them. The Pole star in the north is on or very close to the axis and it will be interesting to watch it once it rises above the northern horizon. Probably won’t be able to see it for a few days after we cross the equator because of the atmospheric haze. I’ve been trying to find a similar point in the south but it looks pretty empty down there.

It’s getting to be an equatorial Piccadilly Circus out here – after I reported the first aircraft last night, I saw about ten more, at least, during the 0300 – 0600 watch, mostly going south. A steady stream of them – the Redeye’s into Rio and Buenos Aires and Montevideo and Punta Arenas perhaps. All just to the west of us, so we must be under the main air corridor from Europe.

We had a vsitor – presumably all the way from Africa, given the wind direction and strength. A dark grey bird, about as big as a small pigeon but slimmer, longish tail, thin, sharp pointed black beak sloping down at the sharp end with pearly grey markings around the face. Couldn’t see any other markings on folded wings or body. Sat on the dodger in the moonlight with surging water all around, not phased by flashlight, got dislodged and came back and sat on Pete’s head and then flew away. With us for about 6 hours. Left some depository messages.

Still have wind. Hard to believe that we’ve now been going for three days at least. Equator, 247 miles away, at this rate very late tomorrow, more likely some time on Tuesday.

Tomorrow is my brother David’s birthday – one off a biggie – have a drink with him and wish him all the happys.

Ron C – I like the ring! Mal tells me you’ve spruced up my dot points – thanks. Can’t remember whether I sent you my flying log book – there is at least one photo that includes your Caloundra Vixen in Mk 1 config. plus the actual entries for my flights in it.

Malcom, good idea – we’ll modify one of the plastic vents. Thanks. (Mal, could you please post Malcom’s suggestion –  might help others)

Malcom Castle’s suggestion on Cooling Cabins:

I assume your jury rigged ventilator provides an inlet and inflow of air to provide circulation in the cabin.

If you have suitable materials you might also construct a chimney, that doesn’t compromise the integrity of the cabin or hatch.  As hot air rises in the cabin it will rise into and through the chimney and hence out of the cabin.  Hence assisting the inflow from your ventilator.  If the parts of the chimney outside the cabin absorb heat from the sun (eg are black or metallic, the black could be from black paint, black tape or plastic) to heat up the chimney and hence the air within the chimney this that will augment the upwards convective flow velocity of the outgoing air.  Flow through cabin would also be improved.

This task is reminiscent of Apollo 13 and the jury rigging from scraps and bits of pieces that the astronauts had to do to clean up their air.

BarryD thanks for report.

Have new arrangement with Mal re posting mailcalls etc – he bleeps the satphone – saves me hours of trolling the stations. Must send this before he goes to bed.

1-13. Across the Equator

May 01, 2005 - 2345hrs UTC

2345hrs 01 May 2005 UTC Map Ref 195

Well, we had a good run but the wind has now dropped and is still dropping so we won’t make the equator tomorrow, and maybe not Tuesday either.

 A big ship appeared astern this morning – called them, no answer, but heard him talking to someone else as if he was meeting or picking them up – he turned away to the south.   Another big one a couple of hours later answered us and told us he could not see us on his radar from about 4 miles.  Bit of a worry, especially for the English Channel, but good to know.

We’ve had a busy day – finding stored food, gin, tonic, Smoothies,- John M-B, thanks for introducing us to them – nice drop. We keep a couple of cans in the outside fridge which just cools them enough to make them palatable and quenchy. Every hatch open, ventilation system forcing the 4 knots of breeze through the boat – Pete now trying to sleep.

Later:

A couple of nice emails from Leroy, who says his rehab is going well and he’s enjoying being back. Our plan to recognise his contribution to this enterprise is still germinating – a bit like Isabella’s parsley, which seems to grow at glacial speed.

Thinking about something I said recently – about the balance between elation and listless abandonment of care – firstly, I meant care as ‘concern’ – the ‘she’ll be right’ syndrome, we don’t have to do anything about that and anyway it’s too hard. Also, we’ve had it really easy for a couple of weeks now – no sail changes, no party gear, all heat, booze, sweaty tropical sultries and lassitude. And getting desperately unfit, can’t even lift a full bucket of water and would find it very hard to climb the mast. This is almost as hard – maybe harder – mentally than the constant dread and bashings further south, although I’ve no doubt which I prefer physically.

Just been out on deck for an hour – very black night – we’re under low overcast with rain showers, almost no wind and all over the place. Nice to stand in the relatively cold rain although not enough of it to wash in. This will slow us down a bit.

Will send this and maybe do another later – must keep eyes open on deck.

1-13. Across the Equator

May 02, 2005 – 0900hrs UTC

0900hrs 02 May 2005 UTC Map Ref 196

0430 on May 2 – Happy Birthday, David. Another Turner moon for you – silver crescent rising behind silhouetted black clouds low on the horizon with glittering path on the water. Unlike Turner, though, almost no wind. His pictures always seem to be windy.

No ships, no aircraft – looking at the angles, we would be north of the main air corridoor but still potentially within the shipping lane. Saw two big meteorite trails last night coming in from the south so probably not rocket junk and travelling very fast – about half the sky in about a second. One was extremely bright and seemed to go all the way down through the atmosphere. On a cloudless night with a 360 degree horizon, you get a much clearer sense of where they originate and how far they go. Certainly spectacular.

20 miles from straight line half way Stanley to Falmouth and 170 from the equator. We should pass half way in about 6 hours – the equator – who knows?

Later – 0900 – at 0229.43 South – we’re past half way and the satphone just bleeped so I’ll send this and all y’all can start the celebrations. 149 miles to the equator, so tomorrow some time it we get lucky.

[ed: I love it when a plan comes together – their calculation of how far they’ve got to go corresponds exactly with our calculations in the Sitrep list – and, no, I didn’t fudge it! Their average speed is back up to 5 knots so we’re looking at them crossing the equator at about 1500UTC Tuesday (1am Wednesday Australian Eastern Standard Time)]

1-13. Across the Equator

May 02, 2005 – 2350hrs UTC

2350hrs 02 May 2005 UTC Map Ref 197

I’m told there will be a Naval Review of ships from 40 navies to celebrate 200 years since Trafalagar sometime in June at Spithead. Back in 1953 an an 11 year old kid at boarding school I was dragged out of school for a couple of days to go to Portsmouth with my aunt and Cousin Nick, then to Spithead and out to Illustrious, where my father was Commander (Air), for the Coronation Review of the Fleet. We saw the Queen and Himself reviewing the fleet – there were about 300 ships at Spithead in long lines stretching down the Solent – and back to Portsmouth and school with quite a story. The ingenuousness of youth. I had a scrap book with all the photos but I think it’s now long gone. Nick may still have his.  I hope the theme is Nelson rather than triumphalism over a famous victory so that the French and the Spanish can attend without embarrassment.

Taking that a step further, we will have to leave England around August 20 so we should be well past Trafalgar on Oct 21. I hope down near the Cape of Good Hope. Pity in a way but we can’t delay or we will miss our own deadline. J.M-B, we’ll be wishing we were over there in Stanley with all y’all and we’ll have a Consultative moment. Or two.

And on deadlines, I’ve been idly doing the numbers – here we are, 60 odd miles from great circle half way round the world, having sailed a somewhat greater distance. We have done it in – roughly – 112 elapsed days, less 9 days in Dunedin and 10 in the Falklands so 93 days, some of them very slow sailing days indeed. Log distance from Hobart is 11513 miles plus about 900 where the log was not working. Say 12300 miles. No allowance for current etc. That is roughly comparable to the Falmouth Sydney leg for which I have allowed 110 days with a bit of a margin. Very much back of envelope, but it’s definitely doable. Watch this space all y’all – we’ll be working on it. With a bit of a surprise at the end, if we can swing it.

We are still very much in the shipping lane here – most of them going south – and not listening on channel 16. That’s really scary and I don’t feel safe when I cant talk to the steel wall that is approaching and I know they probably have their radar on long range so they wont see us either. At worst, all that is left is a white flare and we keep a couple in the cockpit. Normally, we have lots of time to avoid, but in the rain, ain’t so squeezy.

Time to go and look. And, sure enough, a ship about 5 miles away, and not listening. Life ain’t wot it used to be – I don’t like automated safety systems if they don’t include me!

1-13. Across the Equator

May 03, 2005 - 1730hrs UTC │Equator Going North

1730hrs 03 May 2005 UTC Map Ref 198 00’07”N 029’38”W

We seem to have changed ends. Crossed the equator at 03/14 01 27 Z +- a few seconds. WOOOHOOO! Sorry, Mal, not good enough – you were a minute and 27 seconds off. Nice feeling, very hot – 40+ – water 30+, did some repairs and went for a swim.,

Repairs: Berri’s first major structural problem and we have a work around – the port inner shroud (one of the two heaviest bits of wire in the boat) has started to strand – come apart – at the lower swage (where it is compressed inside the sleeve that attaches it to the boat) – very much a pear shaped problem and we could lose the mast if there is no backup. So – I went up the mast to have a look at all the other swages – sfsg except the forestay has seen a bit of work, and then we rigged a strop and a big bottle screw and some 8mm spectra and doubled up on the shroud. Should get us to the UK but raises doubts about the rest of the rig. We’ll get there, but may be sensible to re-rig before leaving. Not funny, financially – and will be a difficult decision.

From the water, Berri’s hull is a mess. Below the waterline is fine, prop and anode ok. Topsides covered in green and brown slime and aquatic ferals and barnacles. Very ugly. The beautifully painted name on the bow has mostly gone on the port side and the S2H numbers are a bit frayed close to the waterline, but still easily readable as 71. None of which is remotely surprising, considering where we’ve been.

John C – we have just broached your guinness with serious purpose. As one should. Thanks. Shame you can’t be here to share it but you’d melt. And I’m glad it’s me that’s the pious one!.

Fenwick – all bloody excuses – if you need a bike, give Hilary a ring and go and select one of the various recycled (!) hybrids in our garage. Just ride it away buddy and no need to bring it back.

Omnitech – Russell – we seem to be just up the road and thanks for your message. Tell us more about what you are doing.

Sal – hi and glad +XVI is going well. Hi Emma. Why chilli? Ring of fire, perhaps?

David M, – you are right about GMDSS but it is really big ship stuff – all the safety backup that we used to rely on now costs rather a lot and is not really practical for small boats – for instance, we would have to keep a radio switched on all the time and that requires constant power. Ok for short cruises but hard out here unless the sun is shining. And generally, it’s so noisy in the boat that you can’t hear it anyway.

Julita – get back to work! I’ve got 12 toothbrushes!. And your glue kit.

More numbers: The GPS says we sailed 4193 miles to the equator from Stanley. Actual distance is 3454 approx, so we sailed 639 miles sideways. Here’s hoping the North Atlantic is a bit kinder.

1-13. Across the Equator

04 May 2005 - 1015hrs UTC

1015hrs 04 May 2005 UTC Map Ref 199

‘Tis a black old night out there. No moon, low clouds, occasional gaps with starry glitter. Ships. Out there somewhere, so I have to write this in short bursts. About 15 miles away -I hope – to the north east are St Peter and St. Paul rocks – a couple of slabs of rock more or less in the middle of nowhere. They are the traditional rounding point for circumnavigators who start and finish in the southern hemisphere. We will leave them to starboard going north, as long as I have put them in the right place on the studio floor, and to port on the way back. They are not on my digital chart as solid land at all – only as a couple of circular 1000m depth contours. Always a warning though, when the ocean gets that shallow.

[ed: Note from Allan F included on Alex’s suggestion: “St Peter and Paul rocks, are white and covered in bird shit, and birds no water or vegetation at all, lots of fish and squid, we went in so close to have a look with no wind, and did some fishing but a few hours latter 40knts and rain setting us to the east an amazing sight when you first see them.”]

Nice to be counting down again. about 3200 to go. Ship time…Clear horizon and cloud clearing to the north. Cool – the Big Dipper, aka the Great Bear is up by the lower spreader now – still no pole star and may not see it until the Tropic of ?Cancer.

NASA are writing a story about our contact with Leroy and ISS 10. Ain’t that something else again. Don’t anybody tell them about the studio.

Malcolm is sending us all the Gust entries – makes it so much more personal for us, so thanks for signing the book and if you haven’t, please do!

About 4 hours later – we’ve just  had a short sharp lesson in complacency. We’ve had an easy few days – even a week or so – no sail changes, warm, dry, no dramas and none on the horizon. We had a relaxed day yesterday, put up the assym kite for a bit, had another consultation, dinner and into the night. I started this update in the 9-midnight watch and handed over just as a line of cloud was beginning to shut out the stars in the west. Usually, these just have a few rain showers with gusts to about 25 kt – easy to deal with with full main and # 1 just by running down with them (turning away from the wind a bit to reduce the pressure on the sails) So Pete on watch, me deep asleep, St P & St P rocks 15 miles to starboard and upwind. The wind rises to 30+ and stays up. Pete ran the boat way downwind, but too much to handle, and I’d already been woken by the change in feel and noise so was expecting Pete to need help. We had a speedy drop of the headsail and two reefs in the main – easy, but we’d left all the kite gear in the cockpit plus lots of other clutter and the solar panel at the back instead of properly stowed and the main topping lift was stowed on the mast instead of attached to the end of the boom so it became much more of a hassle than necessary. And if we’d been to windward of the rocks, potentially very dangerous.

There was an interesting glow from their position too, underneath the very black silhouetted clouds – I’m sure there isn’t a light on them, so perhaps a squid boat or some other fishing vessel. No ships either, which might have been a lucky strike too. Lots of serious lightning around too. We’re in the Inter Tropical Convergence Zone (ITCZ) where N. Hemisphere winds meet S hemi. winds and nothing much is locally predictable except by looking out. Now daylight, awaiting Mal’s satphone bleep signalling your emails on the way – big cumulo nimbus all around, but our bit of ocean seems reasonably clear for the mo. The go from here is to get north, north, more north at every opportunity. We are steering right up the longitudes but this will change as we get into the NE trades and have to turn west a bit to cope with them.

Have just put Falmouth into the main GPS – 3144 to go. Good feeling.

[ed: Either they’ve found a short cut to Falmouth or I’ve picked the wrong point as their final destination – I make it 3183 miles. Will check and update the Sitrep list as appropriate]

1-13. Across the Equator

May 04, 2005 – 2100hrs UTC

2100hrs 04 May 2005 UTC Map Ref 200

The Examiner has arrived back in the bus shelter. Her latest ploy is getting us to dodge tropical rainstorms. I was looking at an angry rain cloud earlier today – small, dark grey, thick, with spiky bits and visible rain falling from it and thinking that’s coming our way. 10 minutes later it was twice as big and really thick and ugly and in half an our the whole horizon was a mass of developing Cu-nim with angry rainsqualls, thick walls of rain ten miles across and moving our way. We tacked to miss the worst and really spent the afternoon dodging up the eastern edge of the nasties. Incredible haw fast it all develops. Very trying – and so hot! No shade – Berri is not fitted for the tropics and doesn’t have a sexy bimini cover and a sundeck so we swelter under whatever we can drape over ourselves. One ship – going south – seems we may be clearing the shipping lane at last.

The big rain clouds here seem to rotate clockwise still. ITCZ conditions and nothing’s predictable.

We are only able to head NW or NE for the time being – the indications from the grib file are that a dig NE out into the Atlantic towards the Cape Verdes would be a good tactic for the next few days. The NE trades are almost North – hardly any east in them so might be very difficult to go north from here.

Later – we are back on north – goody. There seems to be about a knot of current setting us west, as expected. Lovely calm evening, Venus high in the east, Sirius in the south west, Canopus and Pollux out there too. Glow from the setting sun still in the sky. I’m a bit weary – haven’t had a lot of sleep in the last 48 hours and it’s beginning to show. Get the irrits occasionally – not good. Still too hot to sleep during the day even with makeshift ventilation system and we’ve had a couple of busy nights.

Kris, sorry you missed Conor and thanks for thoughts on potential for a book. I agree with you – no one would buy it. I don’t see a report on the medicinal properties of Murphy’s – where’s your sense of scientific experiment?

Brian and Jen in Dunedin – woohoo – still out there! Look for an older version of a Cav 27 – Kay Cottee’s boat. You probably need something a bit bigger than a Brolga and anyway who’d sell you one these days? Tell me how Toastmasters goes – I’m interested in how you use the stuff.

Roger, thanks very much for contacting Don. I hope we can keep the mast up for another month. Leads to the obvious question, which I’m going to pursue in the UK – why don’t we use spectra instead of s/s for all except the fore- and backstays? Perhaps Don would advise. Easy to replace, light, doesn’t need swaging, and just as strong.   Even the forestay, if no hanked sails and an aerial could be incorporated in a spactra backstay.

Fenwick, thanks for the offer of your wages to help us get home. You’re on, buddy, so get to work!

1-13. Across the Equator

May 05, 2005 – 0600hrs UTC

0600hrs 05 May 2005 UTC Map Ref 201

Is there no end to this guy spouting on about the night sky? do I hear all y’all moaning into your cornies/ Well, here’s a bit more – on these clear moonless nights the Bowl of Night is so intensely beautiful that it can’t be ignored. Sometimes when dolphins play around the boat at night, they spear through the water in brilliant trails of phosphorescence which linger for a few seconds as softly glowing faintly spiralling vortices. Lovely. And when the Dolphins arrived one Sunday afternoon to take over the world from the Mice, they came spearing in through the atmosphere leaving trails of glowing stellar phosphorescence which still linger as the Milky Way. Also lovely – it has two distinct branches directly above us, closely packed with stars and dust and gas and looking just like a dolphin’s trail.

And meteorites – there have been several big ones during the last week or so, coming from the south and leaving long trails across the sky. Tonight, though, I have been watching a series of very bright apparently smaller ones coming in from the south east high in the sky. One in particular was very bright – almost like a whits parachute rocket flare way up there. Is it the time for Oort showers and all that?

[ed: This is a message received from Barry D that Alex thought would be of interest to all:

Through the hole in the studio roof you have been watching the meteor shower known as Eta Aquarids, which is visible from April 21 – May 12. The peak was May 5.

We missed that show. What channel was it on?

I just looked up the program and the next strong meteor shower is not until we all pass through the South Delta Aquarids, July 12 – Aug 19. Peak July 28.]

Clear nights – haze around the horizon, so still Polaris not visible, Big Dipper now appreciably higher than the Cross. Slight hardening of the haze to the north east – becomes black and lumpy with arms – closer, bigger, better defined and with a hard black line beneath and a hint of grey rain. Blacker still, the arms hard and low and clearly defined against the glowing Bowl and just a bit ominous. Then seriously ominous with attitude – close the hatches, party jacket on, put cushion below and take the tiller away from Kevvo. The wind softens to 10 kts, the black line is intense, hard and darkly threatening almost overhead and then whammo! the wind backs in an instant through about 50 degrees and rises to 30 knots and it’s on – drop the traveller to feather the main, steer down wherever the wind wants to go to keep it at 60 degrees off the bow and WOOHOO what a ride. More phosphorescence, spray, black black black above but the far edge visible and stars appearing again. And the wind slowly veers again and back to 18 kts. The black cloud is away to the west and the stars are twinkling and back to kevvo. They arms are generally about a mile wide but if we go through the middle of the depression, it gets very wet and takes a bit longer.

Been thinking about how we can second guess the potential for rig failure – I’m looking at the possibility of going up the mast and attaching 8mm spectra at the cap tangs and at the intermediates and taking it round the spreaders and down to a block so that if another swage goes, we have backup already in place. Already have the main topping lift set up as backup backstay and we have an outer forestay that should buy us time if either main wire goes. Anyone care to comment?

Just been up to do a shipcheck – there’s a little Leunig quarter moon just arisen above the horizon. We are waiting for a potentially highly visible ISS pass at 0700Z – we don’t get clear skies too often when they are around and we’ve only managed one good sighting. They can’t see us when we can see them, because they are in full sunlight – so we get the reflection down here.

Debra – how could I forget? Glad you’re along for the ride. Are you still being a paramedic? When do B & J get back? And all boats do sail a bit sideways – it’s called leeway and it is the result of the sideways pressure of the wind on the sails and hull. Really efficient hulls make less leeway – Berri is pretty good. But I agree – 639 miles takes immense skill and concentration and you should certainly celebrate the achievement with medicinal potions. As often as you like.

1-13. Across the Equator

May 05, 2005 - 1100hrs UTC

1100hrs 05 May 2005 UTC Map Ref 202

Spectacular ISS pass this morning. Came up right on time and passed almost directly overhead from NW to SE. Very bright when overhead – it’s a huge conglomeration of modules and solar panels so there’s probably a couple of football fields of reflective area up there. We made one up from empty beer cans in the studio and shine our torches on it for inspiration. When in doubt, we just add another can. Pete has written to all y’all and I’m a bit soggy and short on inspiration, so just a little one this time.

Continued thanks to all the Gusts who have signed on. Interesting that you are all, with only a couple of exceptions, people we know. And what an interesting mob too. Judging from the hit count, there are probably about a hundred regulars out there and some occasionals. You will all get an invitation to the coming home party.

1-13. Across the Equator

May 06, 2005 - 0445hrs UTC

0445hrs 06 May 2005 UTC Map Ref 203

This will be a bit of a Q&A session. Writing it at night with Pete on watch. Not as easy to write long emails on  this side of the Wall because of the shipping. On the other side, I could sit happily at the laptop for a full three hours if I wanted, knowing that there would be no ships. Here, with the possible closing speeds of modern ships, we have between 12 and 15 minutes to sight, take bearings to establish whether risk of collision, try and call and alter course to get out of the way on the assumption that we have not been seen. Easy to get too involved at the keyboard and be here for 20 minutes – essential to be disciplined, so I tend not to write in my watch any more.

AlexL, we are in international waters so international maritime law applies, particularly the International Regulations for the Prevention of Collisions at Sea (Col.Regs). I’m not a lawyer, but as designated master of the vessel, I have duties and responsibilities plus significant authority. I must read it all one day. I think we can distil our own alcohol, but I’m sure there are National laws just about everywhere we might visit that would prevent us from landing the stuff.

I’m embarrassed to admit that I don’t remember who asked me this one [ed: Graham H] – I forgot to answer it and it is now buried in the logs somewhere. The question was which actor would I like to play myself in the movie of this venture. If there has to be a movie, I’d rather have nothing to do with it, but as for the actor, whoever it is that plays Marvin in the new HGTTG movie will do. My kind of guy, Marvin.

Ian W asked us to talk about all the stuff we take for granted like our watch system. Most of that stuff is actually there in the logs if you care to trawl through them – perhaps I should go through them myself when I have access again and make lists of things that worked, and didn’t, things we learned, what we should have taken/left behind – all that stuff, and post them for anyone who follows. As for watches, we do three hours on and three off with no dogs so we do the same four watches each day. – saves confusion and it’s amazing how the body adapts and wakes itself at five minutes to the appointed hour. Most day watches out here are pretty desperate because of the heat – can’t sleep, can’t really do anything much.

It was so hot this afternoon when I gave up soggy and sent you a shortie, that my glasses were slipping off my face as I leaned forward over the keyboard. Happy memories of the old Grey Funnel line and what it was like before air conditioning – and still is like for most of the world’s population. No wonder there were mutinies in the days of sail. Go for the biggest Dorades you can fit if you are serious, but make sure they work – they absolutely must keep the water out under any conditions and angle of heel and they must be completely sealable for the pear shaped days – talk to someone who has them? And you really need shade over the cockpit, but it must scoop the breeze as well (ours doesn’t, but we’ve modified it). Ideally, the shade equipment must be easily removable for those times when there’s a bit of action, and you have to be able to get around it to get in and out of the cockpit. These things are boat-specific but you do need to work it out.

And something else that has worked well is dried fruit. We have lots of it – sultanas, dates, prunes, cranberries, apricots, apples, figs, strawberries – and I chop up a mixture of all of them every three days or so and soak it in water. Takes a day and there’s a very tasty addition to the rolled oats or muesli (leave it for three days, Alex, and it starts to ferment…). We’d prefer to stick to the rolled oats too – just as good to eat as muesli mix and you can add nuts and other goodies if needed. And for an interesting variation on the standard Consultation – perhaps this one is with the Specialist – you can soak your dried fruit in rum. Or anything, really.

John Witchard – the engine is still going – terriffic little donk and everyone should have one. Have bunged up the fuel primer pump (grot in aged jerry cans, I think) and don’t want to disassemble out here, but it still starts. Those little valves in the pump are difficult to extract in a bumpy sea – perhaps we could design a little extractor for the toolkit.

1-13. Across the Equator

May 07, 2005 – 0430hrs UTC

0430hrs 07 May 2005 UTC Map Ref 204

This one will be a bit themeless – inspiration is tatty when bashing into a short steep sea – one second my nose is smudging the laptop  screen the next my back and shoulders are banging into some very hard bits of Berri and her equipment stowed behind me. ‘orrible. We’re buack in the bus shelter, but going almost in the right direction tracking around 340T when we need North. We have a reef and the #2 to try to nurse the rig as much as possible – an added tension that personally I could do without.  I hope, though that we just might be out of the ITCZ and into the trades – with our luck and the Examiner hovering, I’m not too confident but it is looking promising. It is much cooler, indicating that the wind is coming from the north, which is a good sign as well.

And, on the subject of bus shelters, I notice that Fenwick has not signed the gust book – probably a bit of an effort for him and he’d have to chew his pencil very hard – therefore, just so that all y’all don’t think that we use the old dero that lives in the studio bus shelter as the model for some fictional Fenwick twerp I think it’s time for some acknowledgement. Allan Fenwick is a real person, a fine upstanding figure of a bloke of some 60+ summers. He is one of the very very few sailors around who can claim to have rounded Cape Horn the hard way, from the Atlantic to the Pacific, against the prevailing wind and current, in the years before GPS, effective communications and high technology boats. That dates him a bit doesn’t it? Our effort looks a bit wimpish by comparison. And he used to be able to sail quite well before he started drinking. Get off the piss, Fenwick, and get back to work. We’re going to need your wages to keep this show on the road once we get to the UK.

The UK. We’re trying now to work out how to manage our resources and time – we know when, more or less, we should arrive if the rig stays up and we have a fix list and a purchase lst and we hope soon to have a Fastnet to-do list from the Royal Ocean Racing Club (RORC). We have been told that just parking the boat will cost us 20 pounds a day so we will need to find a way around that one and somewhere to stow all the extra gear that we won’t need for the race. To get our safety certificate renewed, we need a new liferaft which is being organised for us and we will have to slip Berri and do a few other major jobs like hucking out all the green and slimy ferals that are now living in every damp corner, not just my boots. We will have to leave again as soon as possible after the Fastnet as well, so everything will need to be ready beforehand to pack into the boat again after the finish.

Clouds – there’s clouds and Clouds. clouds are those fluffy white thingies that float around in the sky and inspire poets and make rain. But Clouds are different – they inspire awe, fear, joy, and a sense of doom. We have just gone from clouds to Clouds this evening – happens sometimes as night falls, the pretty fluffy thingies stop reflecting nice pink sunlight and become black silhouetted threatening monsters out to get us. The effect is enhanced by moonlight, as Turner’s paintings show so brilliantly. Looking at cClouds can tell sailors just about everything they need to know about the weather – just ahead out to perhaps a week in some places where there are predictable local cycles. The really nasty ones are cmulo-nimbus, or thunder clouds. These also come in grades with the really desperately nasty ones usually occurring along tropical coastlines. They are huge, greenish ferocious maelstroms of power, energy and destruction. Good to avoid these guys. I might extend this a bit as we go along but I need a break from the bus shelter effect and I must do a ship check.

1-13. Across the Equator

May 06, 2005 - 0800hrs UTC

0800hrs 07 May 2005 UTC Map Ref 205

Yesterday one ship, today none, we may be back in the exclusion zone.

Wind has been steady at 15-20 kts from NE. We have been hard on the wind all day, sheets slightly eased to help Berri get through a rather short lumpy sea, making a little west of north at 4-5 knots. No strong squalls today,s good sun and speed so used the desalinator to make water with the excess electricity and did some washing.

Yesterday I started to reply to some of your emails but got only as far as Allan F. Somebody (I think it was Isabella} asked if Fenwick was real. Of course he’s real, he is also one of nature’s gentlemen. I gave him a bit of a rev up, in his last emails he has sounded a bit down as some bastard had stolen his bike.

Woc.   Had meeting of the Swim in the boll Club on the equator at about 30 west. Only two events 50 m. and 100 m. sprints. Not a large entry list either, one per event. It was a little lonely up on the podium for the trophy presentation but when the flag was raised and the anthem played I behaved like a true podium professional. A small amount of salt to the back of the hand does the trick wait for the camera to come in on close up then a quiver to the bottom jaw and the hand is wiped across the eye the eyelid flutters and on cue the tear. I even used the rugby players ploy, singing the first verse of Waltzing Matilda, four lines out of sync with the anthem. The trophy of course was two cans of the Dublin Doctor with the tops pulled.

 To get Cam up to speed for his big event in Germany buy a copy of our book   “The Podium ….How to get the best result once you get there”, I think its still available at most good bookstores.

Heggie  Hope all is well with Brenda, I have a fair amount of info on the wildlife we have seen, yesterday saw a mass of translucent blobs in the water they were everywhere by the time I got a bucket to obtain a sample they were gone. Cooked up a flying fish for breakfast a few days ago they are like tailor oily but quite dry.

Barry D  The computer lives on the chart table. It has stops to keep it in place and when not in use is held down with a strap. Thanks for the good info on the meteors.

Eve   My daughter is working on an oil rig (jack up type) off the coast of WA near Barrow Island. She is about halfway through a 28 day shift doing the midnight to midday watch. Don’t worry things start to move quickly once you get past half way.

Gerry W  Your talk of times in the Med reminded me I wonder whatever happened to Lutine. How’s life in Clunes.

Michael and Julie good to have you on board.

Dave off Sylvara hope to meet up with you in England a check of the web should find  us.

Kees thanks for thinking of J H and K  would love to be with you for the dinner dried food gets to you after a while.

James and Elaine keep an eye on Barry if you are at Jamberoo this weekend I’m sure he could handle a full workload now. Annie and Karl I can smell the curries from here.

Isabella  Alex has been complaining about how fat and unfit he is at the moment could you  devise some landscape labouring to bring him back to peak for the return journey. I hear that he has had some experience in this field.

The sun just came up. No ships again last night….Whooooo…Hoooooo…..

I’ve used up my space so I’ll get out of your way now      cheers   Pete.

1-13. Across the Equator

May 07, 2005 - 2115hrs UTC

2115hrs 07 May 2005 UTC Map Ref 206

Somewhere in Australian literature there’s a book or story called “Call me when the Cross turns over”. This would be obscure today to most Australians, I expect, because to appreciate just how the Cross does turn over, you need a horizon and a clear view of most of the sky. It’s very obvious from here – the Cross is low on our southern horizon and it climbs up out of the south east trailing its pointers, loops through the horizontal at about 15 degrees over the south pole and dives down into the south western horizon wrong side up, so to speak. It turns over round about midnight here at this time of year. Where I live in Sydney, you can only see it for a short period each night because of surrounding buildings and trees and there’s no sense of movement at all.

Another one for the astronomers and physicists, who didn’t answer my last, about the dark patch next to the Cross. If the Milky Way is our view of part of our own galaxy, are the first and second magnitude stars (and therefore the constellations) we use to navigate also part of our galaxy? They certainly seem to be from here. And is our galaxy 100 million light years across or have I got the wrong end of the scale somewhere? And if the dark patch near the Cross is a hole in the Milky Way, how come? It seems almost without visible ‘content’. What sort of force would cause that to happen? Um – if Stephen Hawking has already written all there is to say about all that, sorry I asked, but from here, they seem to be obvious questions.

Clouds – as weather forecasters – useful on their own but much more so if you understand how weather systems develop and what they bring with them. Cold and warm fronts, highs and lows, monsoons, tropical revolving storms – all have their particular characteristics and their signature cloud patterns and sequences. And each system has its own local effects, so around Sydney you get southerly busters, seemingly out of nowhere but predictable if you have been following the trends in cloud patterns and wind direction and you know the local conditions. There are several PhD’s to be written around all of this and there’s no way I could pretend to know it all or get it all into one of these updates. I faffed on about lows and TRS’s on the other side of the Horn, so that’s in the logs somewhere. What we are waiting for here is the series of fronts that signal the end of the trades and the beginning of the next convergence zone and which we hope will lift us around to the north east and Falmouth from somewhere close to the Azores. I think they will be cold fronts – I’m not sure, but working from first principles, as long as I have those right, indicates they will be. Hot air rises above the equator, (so low pressure) moves north or south, is cooled in the upper atmosphere and sinks again in the mid latitudes (high pressure). So what we will have is essentially a wedge of colder air from the clockwise rotating high to the north forcing itself under the warmer moister air we are in here and pushing the warm moist air upwards. What we will see will be the fluffy little cumulus clouds we’re under now becoming a line of developing cumulo-nimbus clouds along the front, as the warm moist air rises, cools and the water condenses out of it. The earth’s rotation causes vortices between the two converging air masses along the convergence zone which make the big clouds spin and there’s the beginning of the beast. All of which could be complete nonsense – but I’m sure to be corrected if it is and we will post the correction.

Things that have worked really well # 47: Mung beans, apart from an early disaster in the very much colder southern ocean where some of them didn’t germinate and made a mess of my smile. I soak a handful every day and the little darlings germinate, root, swell and give us crunchy fresh protein for our evening meal. Cress works just as well but really needs bread and margarine etc. to be fully appreciated, so I’m not growing it here.

And we are now into the Linear Method of Consultation (LMC) as opposed to the Parallel Method (PMC). Where once we were able to Consult regularly and often, we now must absteem so we entertain the Doctor in the morning, again in the afternoon, both times sharing a can of Consulting Oil and then again in the evening, but this time as an Either/Or event. Either we talk to the good Dr. Gordon and apply his Tonic to the system, or we commune with the excellent Chilean Anaesthetist, Dr. Plonk. Once, we might have held Joint Consultations, but no longer. Pain is said to be character building.

I think we can now see the Pole Star, Polaris. WOOHOO!

1-13. Across the Equator

May 08, 2005 - 1030hrs UTC

1030hrs 08 May 2005 UTC Map Ref 207

We are almost exactly half way between Africa and South America, about 1200 miles NE of the mouth of the Amazon. Too far for any noticeable change in the colour of the water. Going just west of North which is as good as we could hope for in the NE Trades. Low overcast with rain showers – unexpected and indicates a warm front somewhere close, probably coming up from the south.

Apologies for the tedium of these updates – the old bus shelter is still rattling around the studio floor and we’re still throwing more cans at the mock up ISS but that’s not news any more and I’m reluctant to make jokes about nothing much happening – even this old grizzlehead has some tendrils of superstition somewhere between its ears. So we sit and luxuriate in the fact that we are going north and it’s cool(ish) and we haven’t yet lost the capacity to Consult albeit by LMC.

One of the most difficult things to contend with – I’ve found anyway – is that to get even the smallest non-routine fix or job done, it is usually necessary to unpack half the boat to get at the part or tool that is needed. We lost the pin from the autopilot some weeks ago somewhere in the saloon and I improvised with a shackle pin but today I decided it was time to find the proper pin and stop the thing from jumping around in its slot. This meant untying our plastic drawers full of dried food which sit on the jerry cans, moving them to a bunk (quite heavy – about 20 kilos) unlashing 4 of our 6 jerrycans from their stowage between the bunks, unlashing and moving a 20 litre water container from the base of the mast, removing all the padding, shifting all the bits and pieces that had jammed themselves in the available spaces – spare nav lights, coils of string, bubble wrap, deck shoes (pongy with ferals) – moving 15 metres of spare anchor chain out of the bilge forward of the mast, – bringing the big lantern from the cockpit and finding nothing, so removing the floorboard aft of the mast, pumping a few inches of water from the bilge and whoopee there it is, right at the deepest part of the boat. So, having found it, all that stuff had to be repacked, lashed in again and tidied up. Then I had to find the tools to actually replace the pin in the autopilot arm. Perhaps an hour’s work for a five minute fix. So the tendency is to put off non-essential fixes.

A bit more purple stuff about night sailing: last night, very dark, no moon, as I was sitting in the cockpit contemplating the sound of one hand clapping, I noticed from the corner of my eye strange lights astern. At first, I thought they were just reflections from the very bright stern light at the masthead, but they were greenish and all over the place. I went and stood right at the stern and wow! quite uncanny – little explosions of phosphorescence, as bright as a strobe light under water, about half a metre wide, going off in our wake and all around the boat, far enough away from it not to have been caused by its passage and even 20 -30 metres ahead. Never seen anything like it before, perhaps caused by fish – not dolphins, which leave long trails – and quite wonderful. It lasted for about an hour.

1-13. Across the Equator

May 09, 2005 - 0445hrs UTC

Sitrep: 0445hrs 09 May 2005 UTC Map Ref 208

The Examiner has jumped back into the bus shelter. We’re down to the #5 and 3 reefs in 30+ knots and a rising sea, still nursing the rig. Probably not necessary but I’d hate it to fall down this close to home. Or, put another way, if it’s going to fall down, the closer to home the better. A bit violent, rolling and pitching, tough on the bum and other pointy bits and I think we’ve got about 600 miles of it to get through. Definitely not in the brochure for the trip. Back to Patience, Persistence Perseverance and Titan Uranus.

Another milestone today – I was able to pull in a weather fax from Northwood in the UK, showing western europe and the north east Atlantic, but not down as far as here. Really getting close.

We’ve been reminded – by Fenwick, of course – of that other well known Australian Consultant, the good Pastor Flagon, who surely has a place in medical history for soothing the nerves of desperate yachties when all recognized forms of alcohol have been depleted, His Yachtmasters book titled DT’s and the Desperate has often played it’s part in the marine emergency with no landfall in sight.

Sadly, we are unable to undergo his Ministration as we forgot to invite him but maybe he’s waiting for us in Falmouth.

More phosphorescent strobes in the wake again this evening. It’s as if all the dinos in a cubic foot of water go off at once making an intense green flash. Must be caused by some kind of fish – cant think of any other explanation. Perhaps flying fish taking off and landing.

Tori – I think you’re right about Slarty – fun looking for his signature on Cape Horn. See if you can spot it in the photos. And we know all about Gordon and the Boat Incident. Silly person.

From Malcom C and Phil Y

Here is the good oil on the black patch near the Southern Cross. It is actually called the Coal Sack and is well known. It is a region where foreground dust obscures the stars behind it. It is dark matter but not dark matter in the sense that astronomers talk about dark matter.

Dark Matter, as astronomers know it, is non-luminous material between the stars in a galaxy that outweighs all stars in a galaxy by a factor of 10 times.

There are other patches of dust throughout the Milky Way but their total mass is small, small even compared to the total mass of the stars alone. There are other famous patches of dust. The most famous is the one in Orion that causes the so-called Horsehead Nebula. You should be able to see that soon.

Another intrepid navigator, Ferdinand Magellan, in an idle moment on the quarter deck, discovered the Magellanic Clouds a few hundred years ago.

I guess Peter Crozier (cross bearer) is already partly immortalised in the name of the Southern Cross. Alex, keep looking at the skies you may yet see an unnamed comet, asteroid, or super nova that someone might name after you. If its an asteroid and it begins to fill your field of vision, duck.

Many thanks to Phil Y for the facts.

Malcom – thanks for directing the big guns at my very unscientific questions – can you see the dark patch from Sydney or is there too much ambient light? If Phil replies, could you ask him if it’s ok to post his answer? Malcolm takes all the addresses and other guff off our webmail so I don’t have his address. And a Kiwi in the Smithsonian – bastards are everywhere these days.

1-13. Across the Equator

May 10, 2005 – 0410hrs UTC

0410hrs 10 May 2005 UTC Map Ref 209

Its about local noon now, plenty of sun not much boat speed but the charging devices are ahead of the discharging devices so I’m making water with the excess electrons and preparing a curry for this evening’s repast. The curry is significant in that it has some potatoes which are the last of the fresh food from the Falklands. A good effort considering we’re now 46 days out and a lot of that time was in the tropics.

Yesterday afternoon we changed down sails as the wind and sea state progressively increased. We went from #3 and full main to #3 and one reef then #4 and two reefs and finally for the night #5 and three reefs. By this stage sea was large and lumpy and tops for the wind was 30-35 kts. Through the night sailed 50-60 degs. off the breeze, feathering the main as the wind got to 30+. Generally it stayed in the 20-25 range and we were getting about 4+ kts and 340 deg T which was good considering the conditions and our need to be gentle on the rig.

At the end of my watch just after dawn this morning had a largish nip of Glenfiddich (I’m not sure how to spell it but I know I like it, many thanks Tim) to celebrate passing 10 deg North. It was very beneficial to consult with the Scots specialist and it was further decided that we must do the same again to celebrate the passing of each decade North.

Looks like this wind wont go away its dropped to 20-25 earlier and we change up to #4 and two reefs but as the afternoon progresses its now in the 25-30 range again ….ahhh…well. Have just put the third reef in the main.

Its about midnight now and it seems tonight will be the same as last night. I’ve just been hand steering for the last 90 mins as wind has varied a lot in strength and direction. Direction seems to have settled now so I’m down for a cup of tea. Have had a lot of water over the deck and waves hitting the hull then picked up by the wind occasionally hit you, I suppose you can’t duck every one and it only takes one hit to soak you. My shorts were soaked and I’ve just changed into my lounge pair but not looking forward to getting back into the damp model to go back on deck again. The bum has been rasping away on the hard cockpit seat using the wet shorts as an abrasive device have to watch that as I’ve just about recovered from the last bout of gunwale bum.

Alex has just taken over for the next 3 hrs. The wind has moderated and veered about 10-20 degs. in our favour. I’ll sign off now so I can catch the early post. It’s good to have you with us.

Cheers for now Pete.

1-13. Across the Equator

May 10, 2005 – 0530hrs UTC

0530hrs 10 May 2005 UTC Map Ref 210

As Pete says, its gunwale bum conditions again – the hard bits of the bus shelter grinding away at the body’s outer works from the outside and the bony bits of the body squishing away at them from the inside. And there does not seem to be any end to the process in sight. The Examiner, (whose name is Promethea Gallumbits of that Ilk, Eccentrica’s sister from Eroticon and who gets off on maximising the contrast between happiness and depression. She arrived here 5 months ago as a result of an infinitely improbable event close to the Iron Pot) has set us a doozy for the final run home. We are 2700 odd miles directly downwind from Falmouth, as hard on the wind as we can manage, now 30 – 35 knots, which has been building a short, steep sea for the last three days and unless we get a big lift, there’s no way out. We are pointing roughly at Bermuda about 2000 miles ahead and that’s about where we would have to tack to make Falmouth if nothing changes. So it’s going to be a bit of a slog, perhaps 4000 miles instead of 2700. At about 4 knots. Tedious. We do expect a change as we get closer to the Azores but it isn’t necessarily going to help much as the wind is likely to drop right out. My ETA entry is looking a bit sick – the later ones are in with a chance.

To survive the conditions and look after the rig as best we can, we have to keep Berri moving slowly enough so that she rides the waves rather that leaps between them and crashes into the oncoming wall. When this happens, the hull wants to stop and the rig wants to keep going and there’s a big impact load on the shrouds. As it is, Berri thinks she’s a submarine, sedately burying her bows, back to the hatch sometimes, and lifting a ton or two of water back down the deck so there is always a small ocean sloshing around. Occasionally, there comes a shorter one and she crashes into it and flings blue water and spray half a boatlength outwards and back on the wind. That’s when you have to be grateful for the dodger (the little canvas awning at the front of the cockpit that you can duck your head under.

Just had to hurtle out and sort out a bit of a blast from under a cloud – the autohelm is set to follow the windvane (and so the apparent wind, not the compass course) and sometimes the combined roll and rise in wind confuses it by giving it a completely false apparent wind so it goes completely ape. Kevvo has exactly the same problem in these conditions and we tend to use the electric version because it’s easier to keep adjusting. So we must put the autohelm into standby, put Berri back on course and reset the autohelm and then sit and watch it for a bit. Not made easier if I’m using the computer when it happens because the screen is so bright, even when fully dimmed, that I’m completely blind when I get out into the cockpit and it takes several minutes for my eyes to adjust to the very black night. Moon tomorrow, I think.

Polaris, the North Star, now clearly visible on our starboard bow and getting higher every night. Cool.

1-13. Across the Equator

May 10, 2005 – 2200hrs UTC

2200hrs 10 May 2005 UTC Map Ref 211

A humdrum day. We continue to ride the bus shelter as it bucks and corkscrews its way across the ocean – I’ve now got a bedsore in the small of my back from bracing against its side wall which is not a barrel of laughs – but we did get a lift and instead of pointing at Bermuda, we are now looking at Newfoundland – hooley dooley thank you Promethea! One more like that and we’re heading for the back of the Azores which on a normal trip would be just where we want to be going. It looks a bit different up there now though and I’m not so sure – Mal, where’s the Azores high centred and what’s between us and its back edge?? Seems all wrong to have a couple of lows in the way.

Our thoughts are now very much towards Falmouth and the big to-do list we have when we get there. And we are on a very strict Consultation regime with half a can of Medicinal Potion each at lunchtime (ish) and a Dr Gordon or Dr Plonk each in the evening. Doing it very tough indeed.

New moon in the sky as I write – tiny silver sliver just visible between clouds across most of the sky. Great Bear now above the lower spreader – real progress. Pole star lost in the haze.

George, thanks for berthing info – I have made provisional booking with Kerry A at the Berthon – dont worry about storage, we’ll leave it all in Falmouth.

Fenwick, Andy M has a bike for you – contact Malcolm.

And Malcom, please thank Phil Yock for dark matter and the Coal Sack. We can see Orion and the nebulae in his belt too – and almost right side up from here.

1-13. Across the Equator

May 11, 2005 – 1400hrs UTC

1400hrs 11 May 2005 UTC Map Ref 212

Once again, not lot to report. The wind is now 30 – 35 knots, very lumpy sea, hugely uncomfortable in every respect. #4 and 3 reefs with the traveller eased way down to feather the main most of the time. Not much fun but we are moving north at 5+ knots which is the sustaining factor in what is now an examination in stamina and endurance. I reckon this feels like about 18k in a really difficult marathon. Occasionally, we get a big wave side on that dumps tons of water over the boat and half fills the cockpit, but mainly just mild water over the deck in submarine mode. Humid below, but not as bad as before. Still on the starboard tack, so we hope the dud shroud is not stressed and the others are holding out. Short of stopping, there’s not much we can do.

We have about 700 miles – say six days – to go before we can, on present information, expect any real change. JJ, this is a situation where we have to get as far north as possible with as little west as possible – no question of giving anything away in the hope that there will be a favourable change – westerlies – up there. Doesn’t look as if they are there at this moment. So it’s headbang all the way. We’re abeam the southern Cape Verdes way over to the east – the jumping off spot for sailors going to the West Indies from Europe. May see other yachts further north. And somewhere out behind us is the Global Challenge fleet.

My sister says Mal has put some photos on the website. Really weird feeling to be at the sharpish end of this enterprise and yet in a way not be part of it at all. Pete and I have not seen any of the photos, nor have we read any of the press articles or seen the website except briefly while we were in Port Stanley. So we know less about ourselves than you know about us. But it’s really nice to get the daily pair of mailcalls with all your messages and to know that there seems to be something in what we are doing that has come to mean something to a lot of other people too. Chuffing and sustaining and enabling.

These updates may become a bit repetitive over the six days, so I’ll keep them short – it’s pretty hard just to sit here and grind them out – but I will try and give you a comparison between a Hobart and a Fastnet race as we go along.

Malcom, thanks for both messages  Mal, – I think we should post the one about phosphorescence. Thanks for High info. If correct, looks promising but still a long way to go.

From Malcom C on Phosphorescence and Fish:

When I was at sea a few decades ago, one of the top fishing skippers I used to work with, a Spanish Moroccan, used to command trawlers out of Walvis bay, Namibia.

When fishing for pilchards at night, which school in vast numbers off SW Africa, as the trawlers didn’t have sonar at that time they used to darken the ship so that they could see the phosphorescence given off by the plankton and small criturs as they were disturbed by the schools of swirling feeding fish and hence they knew where to shoot their nets.

It’s possible that you sailed through or over a large school of small fish that were actively feeding.  It may be that there was also a sharp temperature gradient at a water mass boundary in the ocean (think current boundaries and warm core eddies) where plankton, small fish and larger pelagic predators congregate.

1-13. Across the Equator

May 12, 2005 - 1100hrs UTC

1100hrs 12 May 2005 UTC Map Ref 213

These are getting harder to write – I used to be able to grind them out during my night watches in the southern ocean and further south off South America out of the shipping lanes, but that’s not so easy here. Because of the general crash and bash and spray flying around, being in the cockpit requires full party gear so not easy to duck up and down every ten minutes or s to dash off another few lines.

Back in the Hobart race logs, I think I wittered on a bit about the race and its sectors and relevant tactics, so I wont repeat all that here. There is a general requirement in the Racing Rules of Sailing (RRS) that all competitors sail safely and obey the rules – both RRS as between vessels racing and the International Regulations for the Prevention of Collisions at Sea (Colregs) as between a vessel racing and one not racing, and all vessels, whether racing or not, at night. Second only to this requirement is the bottom line – to sail the shortest possible distance over the course at maximum speed for the conditions. How any competitor sets about this is governed to some extent by the boat he or she is sailing and the competence of the crew.

In a long race like a Fastnet or S2H, other factors arise too, especially for the slower boats – stamina, adequate rest, food, warmth and so on. These things are common to all races. I think the big difference between the S2H and the Fastnet is the need to understand and work the tides and avoid all the potentially disastrous opportunities to go aground that exist along the south coast of England and, indeed, at the Fastnet Rock itself. Tidal ‘gates’ occur at every change of tide and missing one could make the difference between winning and coming last.

More on this later.

Bill and Joan, good to hear you survived the broken traffic lights. If your musings on sponsorship were any more than just musings, we’d be very interested. The ‘getting home’ fund is looking very thin and emaciated, what with new liferaft and potentially new rigging and all the other stuff. Fenwick has offered us $10 – thanks Allan – set up a trust fund and do some soliciting! So I might be prepared to jump through a sponsor’s hoops if necessary.

Doug and Estelle – I’ve seen the Malta DC3 – not much of it left and I thought it might have been a DC2 at first sight. May get a chance for another look in a few weeks when we go and visit my Mum after we get to Falmouth.

And for the ETA competition – running out of time to put in an entry or amend an early one – rien ne va plus after we cross 35N in a couple of weeks or so. I will leave mine on the table as a guide only. At this stage, i see no need to amend it – look at our progress and the impending changes in the weather pattern…We may be able to offer an elegant “Berrimilla Around” T shirt designed by my sister and signed by the crew if the winner would prefer one to the other goodies on offer.

[ed: The ETA guessing calendar is here – there are still some good dates left!]

1-14. Nearly to Falmouth

May 13, 2005 - 0330hrs UTC

0330hrs 13 May 2005 UTC 17’03”N 035’22”W Map Ref 214 4903nm (2464nm to Falmouth)

Greetings fromTradewindTerritory(North variety),

I’ve spent the last couple of days trying to avoid sitting on my pelvic bones. The gunwale bum is back again. I can sit sort of sidesaddle with all the weight on the bottom of the thigh on the cockpit seats or even better sit on top of the bottom washboard in the companionway. This last one is the most comfortable and gives the best relief to the constant jerky twisting motion that you get while sailing to windward in these lumpy short steep Tradewind seas. Many years ago I crossed the Atlantic and Pacific sailing downwind with the trades behind us beautiful,no sore bums in these conditions. Many times I would have looked back at the seas and thought….bloody hell I’d hate to be going into that….here we are doing just that.

Were about level with the Cape Verde Islands at the moment and a big slide to the left would send us downwind straight towards Antigua, I can seethe boat now parked stern to the quay in English Harbour, I can hear a steel band playing under the trees outside the Admiral’s Inn …..Ahhhhhh …downwind no sore bottom. But enough of this these are mutinous thoughts…..onwards..north …Falmouth for orders and all that nonsense.

Sitting on the washboard with the rear end inside the cabin and the rest of you in the cockpit facing aft it reminds me of the old westerns. At the end of a thirty day cattle drive there they are at the railhead stockyards sitting on the top rail of the cattle crush rolling a cigarette hanging their rear ends over the rail, saddlesore. It’s getting better now a little bit of harsh treatment to let it know who’s boss, a liberal application of metho to the raw bits seems to have sorted things out. It must be at least 30 days we have been going to windward.

Allan just read your latest soliloquy I’ll go out and contemplate the the night sky, consider us in silent companionship.

That’s enough of my misery you know I’m better I’m sitting down to write again….cheers Pete.

1-14. Nearly to Falmouth

May 13, 2005 - 0935hrs UTC

0935hrs 13 May 2005 UTC 17’29”N 035’24”W Map Ref 215 4929nm (2442nm to Falmouth)

A bit over an hour ago, (now much more at send time…) we crossed 1640N. Why is this worth mentioning? – just another number except that it is exactly 1000 miles north of the equator. I think there may be something special with breakfast tomorrow. It has taken us a bit over 9 days and there are 2500 miles to go, so approximately 23 days?? I think my ETA was June 4 – still a bit optimistic, I think, but the numbers stack.

Berrimilla’s Mighty Media Machine has swung into action in the UK – actually a couple of friends have got on to assorted newspapers and TV stations and we are Being Contacted and Stories will be Written.

Bill, as a sponsorship musing follow up, the big media opportunity actually happens when we get back to Sydney, especially if we make the Sydney-Hobart start line. We could carry all sorts of logos entering harbour and racing. If we actually do make it, we will probably enter Oz in Eden on the way past going north, so there would be an opportunity to decorate.

Like the S2H, the Fastnet can be divided into distinct stages. I don’t know enough about the course to do it for you, but from here, it looks as if getting out of the Solent, then around Portland Bill, Lands End, the Rock, Lands End, Plymouth would go close. Big tidal gate at Portland and at other headlands to the west. Because we will be one of the slowest boats out there, there may well be smaller subdivisions for us, especially west of Portland in the Channel tides. Will have to do some serious reading when we get to Falmouth, and talking to the experts. And I haven’t seen the sailing instructions so don’t know what restrictions on automatic steering gear there may be for the 2 handed division, but there wont be much time for sleeping.

Three hours is a long time. Sitting in the cockpit surrounded by twinkling phosphorescence below and the glowing depths of the Bowl of Night, there is opportunity for lots of idle musing. Like what to write in the next of these – how, when it is almost impossible to distinguish one day from another at the moment, do I find something interesting to waffle on about? I was looking at the Pole Star a few minutes ago and thinking that humans must have been using stars to establish direction for longer that we have developed and used our other basic skills. And then – on an earlier theme – thinking about the Ghosts I sail with out here – the hundreds of early Portugese, Spanish and then English sailors and perhaps the Danes and even the Phoenicians long before them, who began to sail the North Atlantic and to use the Pole Star to find their way home. Some famous – Magellan, Drake, da Gama, but most lost to history yet still very much out here. It’s easy to imagine them on the same open ocean in their primitive and tiny ships – probably apprehensive, often terrified, excited by discovery, united by their circumstances yet often divided by their difference in perspective about a particular voyage. Hence mutiny, and all sorts of cruelty and some brilliant achievements.

1-14. Nearly to Falmouth

May 13, 2005 - 1500hrs UTC

1500hrs 13 May 2005 UTC 18’00”N 035’21”W Map Ref 216 4960nm (2414nm to Falmouth)

Breakfast – Friday 13 May – the usual cardboard muesli activated by our composted dried fruit but this time washed down – no, washed has too much attitude  – stroked down perhaps? by a snort of The Glenfiddich. Too dreadful for words and, indeed, they fail me. So it seemed appropriate to break into my tiny stash of squashed Mars bars and nibble on the flat toffee-sticky end of one saved from some trauma a few weeks ago. We only have about 10 mars bars altogether – far too expensive in the Falklands, and they all got squashed around the time the liferaft departed. Pete is off chocolate – good lad, so the remains belong me.

I wonder if anyone found and reported the liferaft. Probably somewhere in or off southern Brazil. It is identifiable, so AMSA might know.

It’s been an alcoholic day – today is also the 50th day out of Stanley, so we allowed ourselves an extra Consultation and we may just need another to appease whoever is in charge of Fridays with a 13.

Malcom – what would be the notation for infinite improbability? infinity to the power infinity to the minus one? Thanks for Milky Way stuff (Mal – could you post pse? Ta)- I was a bit off with my diameter. Hope my ETA is a bit closer.

Kevin F – could you please get the spares on the road to my sister if they aren’t already. We’ll be needing them in less than a month. Thanks.

Back to the Pole Star and Ghosts – it’s surprising how, in an otherwise empty – vastly stretchily empty – space, all our forerunners have a real presence, yet who, standing at the corner of Times Square would even think of Columbus or Vespucci or Eric the Red, Cortez or even Cook and Vancouver. Or the Mayflower. And I wonder if there is any tiny space in the Atlantic that Berrimilla could claim to be the first and only boat to cross? Probably less likely than on the other side of the Wall in the Pacific. The whalers in particular would have been everywhere, both sides.

1-14. Nearly to Falmouth

Malcom’s info on the Milky Way

The Milky way is just 100,000 light year wide (diameter).  Our sun is 26,000 light years from the center.  The bulge of the disk at the center protudes 12,000 light years either side.  The Milky way contains at least 250 billion stars, perhaps over 1 trillion.

By contrast the galaxy Andromeda (similar size of Milky Way) is 2.2 million light years away but it is on a collicion course closing at 8,000 km per hour.  Hence a collision between the galaxies will be in about 3 billion years which as far as I can gather given the curent dawdle will be just after you are likely to arrive at Falmouth (I’ve estimated 6 June 3,000,002,005).

Polaris, Pleaides and Orion are certainly part of the Milky Way and deduce that all constellations, close etc. nebulae are.that what we see beyond our galaxies are other galaxies with bugger all in between except gas, dust, dark matter, energy and gravitational fileds

We have a gigantic black hole at the center of the galaxy so don’t sail too close to the edge of the Earth.

1-14. Nearly to Falmouth

May 14, 2005 - 0900hrs UTC

0900hrs 14 May 2005 UTC 19’42”N 035’25”W Map Ref 217 5062nm (2328nm to Falmouth)

This one’s a catch up on correspondence – I’m losing the plot a bit what with no sustained time on night watches to write these and all the Consultations required as we keep passing milestones – or should that be watermarks?. Yesterday we had 50 days, 1000 miles, Friday 13 and the normal morning and evening sessions with one GP or another, and today, if we get lucky, there will be another at 20N – now only 18 miles away. As I write, some of our families and long time Berri mates are having dinner together and we are hoping to hear the satphone beep at us so that we can talk to them all.

Rowley – thanks for all that Global Challenge stuff- we’ve been watching our stern, but I think we were just about on their track at the equator and we are now way to the north. They will slow down a bit when they get to the equator! The NE trades have been more NNE for us but they may get lucky. That will be Pindar’s best chance of catching up a bit.

We are using an Autohelm ST 4000 autopilot when Kevvo is having a rest, mostly following the windvane rather than the compass, so working just like Kevvo (the Fleming). As for Isobars, sorry, can’t help – can’t see the map. GRIB stands for Graphics in Binary and it is a very sexy way of downloading weather information from NOAA computer models, I think in the USA. If you want to see it in action, you need sailmail or similar package or get onto pentacomstat website and find reference to Marc and sailmail and follow. Go and see Marc, if he’ll let you, and he’ll show you the setup we have on Berri. Grib takes some getting used to especially the scale versus your speed and has no localised predictions, hence our surprise down the S. American coast a few weeks ago.

Fiona, thanks for the Galaxy song – it’s been in the back of my mind for ages sort of subconsciously.

[ed: I like it too so it’s here]

Kevin Fleming, you’re an absolute bloody gem! Thanks so much for organising spares and especially $ – I don’t know anyone else who would have done that! Kevvo, the unit, is still working fine – when it gets really rolly, like now, we give it a rest and use the autohelm as long as the sun is out warming the solar panel because it is just a bit easier to fine tune as we go. But it has saved our bacon so many times now we will have to frame it or something when it eventually gets us home. Did you use the photo for your advert? You have my permission to quote from the website too if you want to, just acknowledge copyright and permission.

1-14. Nearly to Falmouth

May 14, 2005 - 1600hrs UTC

1600hrs 14 May 2005 UTC 20’18”N 035’27”W Map Ref 218 5098nm (2298nm to Falmouth)

Would you believe that two experienced old farts can’t tell the difference between The Glenfiddich and Lambs Navy Rum?? We have two brown plastic bottles with decanted libations of each but the labels have disintegrated. So the smell test – I actually got it right that time, but when we then looked at and tasted our 20N Consultative Offering, we both thought we had got it wrong. It was only after serious investigation that we concluded we had the correct bottle. I bet very few people in a properly conducted blind test can really tell the difference between Dr Plonk and Mr Screech the Barber Surgeon anyway, so why should we worry. Just Consult to make sure.

So, yes, we crossed 20N and are now 70% of the way from Port Stanley – or 31 degrees to go. About 25k in the Falklands marathon – just downhill but with almost all the rest uphill till the last 5 k. Grind it out – we have lots of work to do.

The Chart puts us over the Cape Verde Basin – haven’t got depth contours on the laptop digital but probably just east of the Mid Atlantic Ridge. We are sailing through clumps of seaweed – small, about half a metre in diameter, like tangled spiky string, yellowish brown with perhaps a tinge of green. Lots of it, and there seems to be a different smell in the air, but that may just be the boot ferals having a clandestine outing. I remember reading about boats marooned in the Sargasso Sea surrounded by weed and windless but this is in the middle of the trades. Anyone know about it?

Wildlife – the hawklike bird finally deserted us close to St Peter & Paul rocks after perhaps three weeks of sporadic visits – perhaps it just goes up and down the coast following boats. Yesterday we saw a lovely white bird about half a metre span – very finely boned, almost transparent, sun shining through its wing feathers, the whole bird sharply carved and beautifully curved with two very long white tail feathers trailing behind but even those streamlined. It dived on a flying fish which it caught, swallowed, did a curiosity pass over us and was gone.  Today two similar birds but black and without the long tail feathers, flying around in the wave troughs. Also did not stay long.

We seem to be approaching the northern edge of the Trades – some higher clouds over the last two days and the wind lifting us occasionally to point directly at the Azores. Noice! And two days of 6+ knots. Noicer!

Have you had a look at the Falmouth webcam? Will it be worth ringing home when we get close – doubt if we will manage the purple kite but you never know. That would be really cool and classy.

1-14. Nearly to Falmouth

May 15, 2005 - 1030hrs UTC

1030hrs 15 May 2005 UTC 22’10”N 035’29”W Map Ref 219 5210nm (2204nm to Falmouth)

Propagation dreadful this morning (15/1030Z) – you may not get this till tomorrow Z – started yesterday evening local.

Last night:

The Great big Bear is up in the top spreaders and – all going well – should be up over the masthead in a couple of nights. So the flea has humped its bluey all the way round the curve of the pachydermatous rump and is approaching the nice sunny bit half way up the topside. Pole Star at about our latitude (now 21N) above the horizon to the north. 25 knots, ENE, #2 and 2 reefs snugged down a bit for the night as the clouds looked rather dark and windy earlier. Now receding. I think the Cross has all but disappeared below the southern horizon – a bit cloudy down there so don’t know for certain.

Hardly dare write about this in case the Examiner notices, but we’ve been hooning it a bit over the last couple of days probably averaging a least 6kts. Unheard of. We expect it to go soft in a day or so and then back around to the south east to give us a bit of a lift. All the parts are crossed.

Later – now early this morning local and breakfast time – sort of – hard if you’re on 3X3:

And these two grizzled old farts from central casting at Fox still don’t really know whether they are drinking rum or single malt. They think the colour is the real give-away and it’s Lambs Navy but not absolutely sure. Never make real sailors out of these two. Lash ‘em to the bus shelter and have pigeons poo on them – and dogs sniff a lot and lift their legs. The Ancestors are probably Aghast. Apoplectic. Agonised. Anguished. Abject. Ashamed. Astounded. Try it some time – get someone to wake you in the middle of the night in very dim light with a nip of something and see how good you are. Might be a bit easier if you have had lots of recent practice – which we haven’t but might need to commence.

Later still:

15/1200Z – first time ever – can’t connect to any sailmail station anywhere, so this update will just get expanded and the two messages I know are waiting for us will have to wait for at least another 6 hours. Poo.

Pete saw a ship last night, heading north west – perhaps Cape Verdes to NY – too far north now to see the Global Challenge boats which will have come up the east side of the S. Atlantic just west of the Benguela current, to cross the equator a long way further east than we did and will now be heading south of us towards Boston. I think.

And yet more later:

We are now in what looks like the beginning of the Azores high, although we are still 1000+ miles south of the archipelago. Overcast, cloud base getting lower, looking very frontal but quite soft. Pity we aren’t 300 miles further north, where the wind should be turning southerly and later SW going towards Falmouth. But can’t sneeze at tracking north at 6.5 knots.

Anne G – if you are still out there – I’ve lost the reference to the St Malo Cap Horniers mob – buried in the past logs, sorry – would you be kind enough to contact them and ask them if they’d like to hear from us (and, perhaps, if you think they don’t take themselves too seriously, ask how we get our free DIY earring and p.i.t.w. kits)?. Seems like something worth investigating at least. Perhaps, on second thoughts, ear piercing out here is a pleasure we may not need.

This will be too big to send if I go wittering on so here endeth this idle nonsense.

1-14. Nearly to Falmouth

May 15, 2005 - 1530hrs UTC

1530hrs 15 May 2005 UTC 22’36”N 035’25”W Map Ref 220 5237nm (2180nm to Falmouth)

Here’s a project for someone with time to spare. In the days of square riggers trying to minimise their costs, the shipping companies, especially the Germans, compiled statistical charts showing the data from the logs of thousands of voyages out from Europe via the Horn and the Cape of Good Hope to Australia, San Francisco, Hong Kong and just about everywhere else (and back as well). The charts had lines on them called isochrones – joining points that were the same number of days out from, say, London en route to Cape Horn using different tracks. These lines bulged outwards along the tracks that gave the fastest passages at different times of the year, so the Germans, in particular the Laeisz Line (also known as the Flying P line because all their ships’ names began with a P – Preussen, Potosi, Parma, Pamir…), were able to direct all their ships to cross the equator going south at between 27 and 28 degrees west. As a result, their ships were able to make three voyages to Australia each year against everyone else’s two.

I want the isochrone charts from August to December for our return trip leaving Falmouth for Sydney in late August via the Cape of Good Hope. A signed ‘Berrimilla Around’ shirt for the first person who gives me a viable reference that I can use when we get to Falmouth. This almost certainly means that they must be accessible via the internet in some way. I tried to find them before we left Sydney but ran out of time. Might help if you speak German. The word has another more modern usage, for things occurring at the same time, and Google finds all these but none of the others.

These days similar information almost certainly lives in lots of computer databases – Whitbread races, Volvo and Vendee races, Dame E. ad all the others – but is now proprietary and anyway I think there’s something a bit special about using the older charts to plan the route.

1-14. Nearly to Falmouth

May 16, 2005 - 0630hrs UTC

0630hrs 16 May 2005 UTC 24’00”N 035’27”W Map Ref 221 5321nm (2111nm to Falmouth)

[ed: The HF radio (main form of communication) is currently inoperable so log updates will be via SatcomC. Unfortunately, at one cent per character, they will probably be much shorter until the problem is resolved. For example, this log entry would have cost $8.10!

Mail to Berri will suffer similar limitations. Please don’t stop sending messages but, if you can keep them very short, that would make my life easier! Short ones (about 200 characters) will go as is, long ones will probably be summarised and sent in full as soon as possible. Any critical messages will, of course, receive priority – and, by ‘critical’ I mean ‘important’ rather than ‘disparaging’ :-)

Those of you who have Berri’s SailMail address, please note that I will monitor it and forward any messages via SatcomC using the above rules.]

1-14. Nearly to Falmouth

May 16, 2005 – 1030hrs UTC

1030hrs 16 May 2005 UTC

[ed: Phone call from Alex – HF radio is dead and tonight’s SatcomC email to them crashed the PC. Therefore only very short, urgent messages can be sent at this stage. They will do very short Sitreps to keep us abreast of progress.]

1-14. Nearly to Falmouth

May 16, 2005 - 1045hrs UTC

1045hrs 16 May 2005 UTC 24’25”N 035’25”W Map Ref 222 5346nm (2090nm to Falmouth)

catastrophe. will try to give all y’all short updates daily but must nurse system. also v. expensive to use satcom. examiner back with a vengeance – nasty low to nw and central casting heroes in the poo again.

1-14. Nearly to Falmouth

May 16, 2005 - 1515hrs UTC

1515hrs 16 May 2005 UTC 24’52”N 035’17”W Map Ref 223 5374nm (2063nm to Falmouth)

desperately frustrating day trying 2 find prob. with hf – huge un/repack of both sides of back of boat – clearly lots of moisture has got under q’berths – 30 amp fuse ok, has power. no luck. cant find spare fuses – thought they were taped to fuseholders but not, nor with elec. spares. physically v tiring. laptop crashing every time i managed to get sob and satcom to work together ) reboot each time. seems to be intermittent incompat’y – have sorted timeclock difference – may be when satcom receives or transmits. depressing – marvin without emotion – not this old fart.

advised to stay high because nasty low forming to west. wind/sea just 2 much for #2 + 2 reefs ) down to #3 tracking about 010t @ 5+ knots – down from 6+ with 3 but safer and easier on boat and rig. and crew. crossed trop of cancer too – consltd. it’s lambs navy, but by colour alone. amazing.

jeremy b in falmth – appreciate if u cd finger best avail. marine electrician for us asap after arrival – probably minimum 2 day job.

1-14. Nearly to Falmouth

May 16, 2005 - 2230hrs UTC

2230hrs 16 May 2005 UTC 25’29”N 035’07”W Map Ref 224 5412nm (2028nm to Falmouth)

full o’cast – high, hazy thin cloud, some lower cu and pale half moon glowing thro directly o’head. #3 and full main – really needs #2 – and mkng – 5 kts )) azores. getting met area 2 egc wx from satcomc so not completely blind. tomoz, will unpack nav qberth again and try to get to 5 amp fuse in radio. cant think what else could be.

satcom seems to be working after frust’ing times earlier. if i had any hair… mal sending ferociously summarised mailcalls to keep cost down. boot ferals laughing again as weather cools – water temp now  23.

almost abeam canaries –  uk, spain, gib, nw africa + newfndld all on nav screen. exciting.

1-14. Nearly to Falmouth

May 17, 2005 - 0400hrs UTC │Baboons and Bums

0400hrs 17 May 2005 UTC 25’58”N 035’00”W Map Ref 225 5441nm (2001nm to Falmouth)

wind up to 30 – 2 reefs, trkg – 015t – falmouth 035. vmg – 5.

still applying metho to tender nethers. oz metho is clear like gin (would that it were…) but stuff bought in f.i. @ gbsmkg price of – 3 pnds/ltr has purple dye added which also smells foul. when applied to tender parts, paints them purple. lucky, perhaps, no resident baboon population else in hi demand.

1-14. Nearly to Falmouth

May 18, 2005 - 0003hrs UTC

0003hrs 18 May 2005 UTC 27’48”N 034’31”W Map Ref 226 5554nm (1897nm to Falmouth)

[ed: Alex’s description of current problems] all systems  off for 2 hrs this am investigating hf big double un/repack again. followed marty’s instructions except ?no circuit breaker?if so where – 802 direct connect 2 battery?? no joy but found negative bus badly corroded and fixed.  even dismounted m802 box f’m bulkhd (try it sometime with boat corkscrewing 10 ft.)  removed cover and inner cover 2 check 5 amp fuse (and no spare fuse attached as instructions say there is). 20 tiny screws fiendishly diff 2 access and esp replace but managed sans dropping one.

amzg.  all reassembled  and still no power. spbf very difficult enterprise and no real result ) had double consultation with the doctor to recognise heroic failure. cd be combo of equipt. failure and dud  power switch else stumped. failure seemed catastrophic – no warning, total instant loss of power while transmitting.. wil have 2 wait til fmth.

so have decided hang expense and will continu (shorter) udates via satcom – this one about s15+ to send – pse buy lots of shirts, everyone – fenwick and isabella organising and should be arvailable soon – we’ll need some support by the time we get to the start line in sydney. malcolm will send your emails to us as system allows and may have to sumarise to reduce cost. don’t stop sending – we need youse and only a few days to go and all y’all can have a drink with us.

aiming for middle of azores – 30 kts from e and lifting us a bit. 766 to az so 6 days approx then 10 to fmth agw.  egc says nasty low forming to west – bloody promethea again – will really enjoy consulting with her when we eventually get there. hard examiners are best. now at 25k in marathon. headbang just beginning. baboon bott glowing. nearly time to meet boot ferals again – noticeably cooler at night and dry feet a good idea.

1-14. Nearly to Falmouth

May 18, 2005 - 0430hrs UTC

0430hrs 18 May 2005 UTC 28’15”N 034’28”W Map Ref 227 5582nm (1874nm to Falmouth)

v mt ocean. no birds, fish, people –  1st ship for days just past astern lisbn braz?. still lots seaweed. + ghosts. doing 130 nm days ) w end of az’s. xpct collect front to n with w change to carry us home – swiiing looow…no fun being out of contact – hugely enjoy interact’n w. y’all. anticp’n growing + dstnce seems growing parallel – long way 2 go, v chancy wx sit’n.. last few days for eta’s rnvp @ 35n say 3 days. bferals thriving – other wldlfe in grotty clothes bags – all salt encrstd.

 3-6 nightwtch longest – moon down, shwrs, drk. gbear o’head polestar ahead – all hpng xcpt hf radio. cool 2 b here not s ocean.

tks ak 4 contacts. tks f’wick for lots. old glowbum here v grateful.

not confdnt in satcom some msgs not delvrd so kpng short.

luv youse all

1-14. Nearly to Falmouth

May 18, 2005 - 1050hrs UTC

1050hrs 18 May 2005 UTC 28’50”N 034’23”W Map Ref 228 5617nm (1843nm to Falmouth)

gale force winds (34 – 47kts) forecast for our area next week – surprising how little concern that evokes – already in 30 – only real worry is for rig, nowt to report – just grinding it out – patience etc and titan ur(purple)anus. photo of tu ship might go well on back of t shirt  – is? fenwick? all y’all? will try to do chatty one later.

1-14. Nearly to Falmouth

May 18, 2005 – 1330hrs UTC

1330hrs 18 May 2005 UTC 29’06”N 034’17”W Map Ref 229 5634nm (1827nm to Falmouth)

daily watch rutine 4 blubums midnt-3,pete:3-6alex these two are long and  lonely unless moon is up, phosph, dolphins etc.6-9 p -sets up solar panl, checks for damage, chafe etc 9-12 a -no hf so little to do – checks nav, satcom etc. try to read, write emails, not easy when on watch.

1200 hi point – consultation – half can of conslttve lubricnt each – only the dr and 2 smoothies left. 12-3 p,  3-6 a diff 2 sleep in these – hot, windy, humid big motion. general maintenance jobs when poss.

6-9 p – cooks dinner, evening consltn – if an ‘on’day, g+t woohoo looked fwd to all day – else on ‘off days’ (on,off,off). glass of dr plonk. dr plonk with meal, wash up, a sleeps for last hour then 9-12a puts away panel, tidy up, watch stars and gbear climb. will prob run out of gin + dr p.

saw gb right way up yest 4 1st time pointing up to n star. woohoo. cross now below horizon – mixed feelings. achievement, work still to do (panic but still have towel) absent friend etc.

54nm to 30n + next watermark.hi fm pete

p,p,p,+ tu bigtime.

1-14. Nearly to Falmouth

May 18, 2005 – 1700hrs UTC

1700hrs 18 May 2005 UTC 29’23”N 034’07”W Map Ref 230 5653nm (1809nm to Falmouth)

an hr ago got wind shift to se now pointing directly at falmth. with no lumps in between @ 6 kts. first time since boxing day. all y’all have to be here to know how good it feels – don’t tell

promethea cos she’ll move the pieces but temporary as it must be, its exhilarating. pete asleep – dont want to wake him but today is an ‘on’ day so g+t’s later. wooohooo..

gives eta fmth 30 may. not possible but nice to comtemplate. enjoy your cornflakes.

1-14. Nearly to Falmouth

May 18, 2005 – 2200hrs UTC

2200hrs 18 May 2005 UTC 29’46”N 033’47”W Map Ref 231 5682nm (1780nm to Falmouth)

stll in se wind ) fmth.e of azores.  g+t cons. exlnt. – best ever. suspect drama of entprse now gone 4 most of ay’a – we like it that way. but nail btng 4 us. sad re comms cos i do best with immediacy – not up to journal entries for latr. so will try to do these really short ones for duratn. now at approx latit of fenwickery but getting colder. sydney lat 240nm up the rd.

isab ta re sj + recce. david – button pressed  – now in  gt w’shp on magtha. cool – slarty moving fmth closer. gm h, tks, good 2 hear.

1-14. Nearly to Falmouth

May 19, 2005 – 1030hrs UTC

1030hrs 19 May 2005 UTC 30’40”N 033’00”W Map Ref 232 5749nm (1712nm to Falmouth)

anor turner night blk clds rushng across haze veiled moon. gbear + polaris now nearly on p. beam as we head towards the barn. where they shld b. still in se wnd. cooool.

just had crosng 30n constn 4 brkfst. noiice. and anor big unpack 2 trace anor elec prob – all due moisture we think no joy.

jeremyb in fmth tks. lk fwd 2 mtg u. yc swing mrng wd b good if can access pontoon daytime. tks

1-14. Nearly to Falmouth

May 19, 2005 – 2200hrs UTC

2200hrs 19 May 2005 UTC 31’31”N 032’09”W Map Ref 233 5816nm (1645nm to Falmouth)

really misng ay’a. seems dream run endng – in se crnr of hi mvg ne wind now dropng + easng so hi perhaps mvg away. sw front xpctd perhps w’lies after.

o’cst high haze ctn wooly moon high above. grind. grind.grind. constve lubricnt praps just adeqte. all 3 p shrouds now suspct despite shock crd to prvnt flop. shkles clamped 2 each + can attach braces. have 2 clmb mst tomoz chck top swages. what is it wth stnls stl? new rig shld not fail like this. cnsdring gal + thimbles for return trip – cant afford this nonsense. serious tlk with rigger in fmth.

1-14. Nearly to Falmouth

May 20, 2005 – 0900hrs UTC

0900hrs 20 May 2005 UTC

eta comp ends @ 35n. sugst ay’a amend pred’ns to exact time we pass br’wtr fmth. june 4@ 1200 still my bet, may b pesmstc. just recd safet msg re derelct 8-10tmtr s/v 60 nm to n. not enough wind to go look. all v soft – hi just to n weakng hope for sw front soon – xpctd 23rd may b 2 far away 2 help..

jeanne  pse send dym. address in fmth

ben tks 4 fedbak.

[ed: Based on Alex’s comment about the ETA competition, I’ve taken an executive decision and have opened up a second part of the competition. There will now also be a prize for the person who first guesses the closest time (irrespective of date) to the time they pass the breakwater at Falmouth. Times will be assumed to be UTC unless you specify otherwise. So send your guesses to falmoutheta@berrimilla.com.]

1-14. Nearly to Falmouth

May 20, 2005 – 1300hrs UTC

1300hrs 20 May 2005 UTC 32’31”N 031’13”W Map Ref 234 5893nm (1569nm to Falmouth)

stll hdg ) the barn 6kts. huge tnkr (?tu?.) just past ahead 3nm.  no sign drfitng s/v (kahinka f. any 1  kno story?). fixd chrge problm – bypast regltr for turbne. xpct pass clse san mig is azores 3 days time. v big port m o ‘wr all around. some flotsm – fshng gear? able get euro + n.af radio stns – 1st sign approachng lndfl. no birds, bootferals feastng on new sox + cheesy bits. baboons baying frm gib. hope poor swimmrs else brits may hve 2 leave rock. awaitng promethea’s nxt move. mast climb pstpnd as wind up a bit – not rlly nec. precaut. only. today ‘on’ day. hoooley doooley woohoo.

1-14. Nearly to Falmouth

May 20, 2005 – 2130hrs UTC

2130hrs 20 May 2005 UTC 33’11”N 030’44”W Map Ref 235 5940nm (1522nm to Falmouth)

v soft – headed – slwng dwn.  2 birds – smll, blck, surfce flapprs. anor huge tnkr past astn 1nm, mt, hdg ne. serious lkout time. evening -lovely sft grey cld fmtns 2 e hi, med, lo, all diffnt dirctns. moon hi, no strs yet. approx syd lat. – qute cold @ nite – back 2 fleeces. so mch to say, not poss this frmat. dlghtfl sailing – but slow + rlly want to fnsh now. hope front has wlies when arrives so no need to stress rig hrd on p tack. will get out chnnel pilot (book) after azres for approach/entry. big mlstne.  constn. praps 3 days 2 azres.

dm – no way stop azrs – bggr oh+s.

1-14. Nearly to Falmouth

May 24, 2005 - 1115hrs UTC

1115hrs 24 May 2005 UTC Map Ref 244

this is beaufort fce 7 – 8 near gale/gale. 28 – 40 kts sea heaps up foam blown off, wind streaks, long breaking crests 5+ metre waves. not to be sneezed at but definitlely not yet rough rough. sea is grey, sky partly overcast, low to nw bringing perhaps force 9 strong gale tomorrow. after c hn + montevideo, not really threatening. yet. 2 storm jibs poled out – vivid slash of orange + white over breaking crests.

we have been asked many times why we are doing this. it’s what there is to do today, basically – there’s a huge sense of exhilaration, achievement, joy even, in being a living part of the elements where there is no infinite improbability drive, no ‘beam me up scotty’ but just the 2 of us moving on. so far, the planning has held out. it has been made infinitely more personal, interesting, absorbing and fascinating because all y’all seem to be coming along for the ride and getting some of the joy and exhilaration as well. we’re grateful to have you along – it certainly didn’t start out that way and it’s been a big surprise. all in all, a wild, heart catching , sometimes terrifying ride and soon we get to see our families and all y’all again. very special sense of anticipation. thanks for sharing it.

have decided hang the expense + will do these in english. but keep them shortish.

1-14. Nearly to Falmouth

May 30, 2005 - 0615hrs UTC

0615hrs 30 May 2005 UTC Map Ref 260

i think i may have been in this bit of ocean before – i recognised a bit of it this morning – and i’m sure my father, who spent most of his life at sea, would have crossed this stretch many times. so, another ghost but a more personal one. i think he would have approved of rhis little venture. lovely fiery cherry pink sunrise this morning and the half moon was clearly visible at the same time so that the angle of the moon’s reflected light was apparent – doesn’t often happen.

might be a difficult summer on the english beaches – the water surface here is carpeted with tiny portuguese m o’ war – hundreds to the square metre – and the wind is blowing them ne. we’re still pointing at the barn door – rather slowly just at the moment but thursday is still possible. had our -500 consultation with dr lamb at breakfast – goes very wellwith muesli and composted fruit.

arlette – down to last six dunkers – jammy ones. and the eggs lasted till last week – we’ve been rationing them and only lost a couple – one broke and one suss. vaseline works.
bid hope we can co-incide
m + e – thanks for msg – plymouth is a distinct possibility once we have fixed the boat up a bit – i’ll ring you when we get in. may stay with my sister in n devon too, so could be within pub range.

1-14. Nearly to Falmouth

May 30, 2005 - 2215hrs UTC │Blow The Wind Southerly

2215hrs 30 May 2005 UTC Map Ref 263

the gap is closing. astonishing to see the number of wrecks marked on the large scale digital chart between here and fmth – so many tragedies, so many  people waiting and watching – we grew up with kathleen ferrier singing ‘blow the wind southerly’ –  have the same record with me in the boat – hauntingly beautiful and the chart gives it a poignancy that i had never felt so strongly. so many ghosts.

david mck – you can’t be serious?

carol, thanks – we’ll wait to hear

jeremy, thanks and thst’s basically what we intended to do – any beartraps with tide as we are coming in? we may be doing it at night. not fussed, but useful to know.

fiona – no way kiddo – we’re almost out of guinness.

gordo – woohoo and no, we don’t think so..

 

nailbiting….and the visibility is shortish in drizzle – bloody typical – so i’ve got to go and look.

1-15. Falmouth, Malta, and environs

May 31, 2005 – 0615hrs UTC

0615hrs 31 May 2005 UTC Map Ref 264

whales.. at least three of them although i only saw one – the other two sounded from just below the surface and left two huge flat swirls on the surface so big that they flattened the waves. the one i saw breeched just ahead of the boat – perhaps a couple of boatlengths – going at right angles towards the nw. sort of olive grey, great long smooth back, with an incongruously small dorsal fin, definitely not a humpback like we see in oz, seemed to be flowing across our bows for ever, didn’t see its head or its tail and it seemed to be at least as long as the boat. beats muesli for breakfast. can anyone identify it? not much to go on.

we’ve slowed down a lot – rain, very low overcast, long rolling swell – vis about half a mile – 3rd still possible but need some more wind. wonder what the delightfull and inventive examiner still has in store for us – plenty of opportunity for her yet . i’ve been doing some rudimentary tidal vectors – something unfamiliar to many oz sailors but essential here, where the channel tides run at up to 4 kts in the middle and 7 around some of the headlands.

1-15. Falmouth, Malta, and environs

31 May 31, 2005 – 1215hrs UTC

1215hrs 31 May 2005 UTC Map Ref 265

one of those special days – just been thro’ v. big pod/school of what looked like small humpbacks  – about 15 ft long, maybe more, dark olive brown, big triangular dorsal just ahead of hmp , horiz. tails, curved like whales’  and round heads – travelling mostly in pairs. porpoises? big dolphins? small whales?

looking like late thurs gmt or early fri – probably in the dark – don’t want to hang around outside for daylight – so may miss webcam but will phone mal when have better estimate + he can alert all y’a.

[ed: If you want to be alerted as soon as I hear anything (and you’re not already registered), put yourself on the Berri Update list by sending an email to alert@berrimilla.com].

1-15. Falmouth, Malta, and environs

May 31, 2005 - 2215hrs UTC

2215hrs 31 May 2005 UTC Map Ref 266

it’s all gone very soft indeed. about 5 kts from the sw and we’re burning a bit of diesel just to keep moving. eta now friday – may make webcam yet. the usual n atlantic mist – no real horizon and long swell, surprisingly few ships so far – we’re just between the main routes. will be a very long couple of days

From Jeremy B., Falmouth

There are few hazards in the entrance. You should see the Lizard light from a long way off,then the Manacles buoy,then some way off to the north you will probably see a red light fairly low down,this is the red sector of St Anthonys light which is on the east side of the entrance.The only hazard is the Black rock in the middle of the entrance,this has a beacon on it but is unlit.However there is a cardinal buoy to the east of it that marks the west of the big ship channel.From there in a yacht one can head NW to the docks eastern and northern arms keeping an eye out for the Governor buoy on the way, and head into the Penryn River.Alternatively by day,one can leave the Black rock to Stbd and head up the western shore.Once past the docks turn to port for the pontoons against the town to the right of Customs House quay.At night this may take a little finding because of all the town lights!!

jeremy, tks for details – no probs and will go to harbourmasters pontoons

From Salvatore R.

Hi Alex good to see you are progressing in the journey, knowing you out there makes us all envious and wish to be there with to share some of the magic pink mornings moments.  Anyway enough of these niceties and down to business – have consulted with Emma and come up with an idea to show you that we mean support to the business end not just words..
How would you feel if we get one of your pictures i thought the one on the web site whereyou are in front of the horn, have it nicely framed and run a raffle at keycorp to raise some  funds ? If you are happy that we do this how do we get a copy of the picture ? may be from th ewebmaster ? Please let me know if you are ok with this initiative and wish you all the best and fair winds.

sal – thanks – have suggested to al perhaps a friday with everyone turning up in berri gear?  may be able to get you a signed shirt to raffle? will be a week or so before fenwick can get stocks up.

1-15. Falmouth, Malta, and environs

Jun 01, 2005 – 0445hrs UTC

0445hrs 01 Jun 2005 UTC Map Ref 267

back up to speed again for the mo. late tomorrow afternoon would be possible if this hangs in – which would be truly amazingly cool and froody because we have one g + t left and half a can of the dr. each plus a couple for the lizard and the manacles. cutting things a bit fine, i think. tomorrow would be  132 sailing days  fromsydney, 126 fromhobart, 115 fromdunedinand 69 fromstanley. high water fmth is at 1421 so we’ll be pushing the ebb if it happens. i think though, that friday morning is  more likely.

hard to believe it could be tomorrow – but must not lose sight of the main purpose – we are only half way round, with the first 3 legs completed and three to go. we have still to fumble our way around the fastnet course, get back tosydney, get some dr coopers into us and race tohobart. then it’s beer and skitles and a pan galactic gargle blaster or two. and back to work.

malcom i think today’s definition of a record would be something like data stored in retrievable form – so who’s out of date? it’s actually on a cd, but you might have felt less pedantically challenged if i’d said ‘recording’ perhaps? must have been made in the early 1940’s. and we owned it originally as a 45 vinyl played on a mono box.

1-15. Falmouth, Malta, and environs

Jun 01, 2005 – 1015hrs UTC

1015hrs 01 Jun 2005 UTC Map Ref 268

wooohooo. we’re past the continental shelf – crossed the 200m contour 3 hrs ago and we’ve got a depth reading again  -564 ft – the wonders etc. have received one bribe re arrival time so far – any advances? the water now grey, cloudy green – just like old times. more on the whales – the big one’s dorsal was curved back slightly and rounded – otherwise, no other distinguishers except that it was big. the pod of smaller ones looked like humpbacked torpedoes – that sort of head, and big triangular dorsals and very whale-like tails. mostly not breeching high enough to see their heads, unlike the bottlenose dolphins that almost leave the water sometimes.

we have just consulted on the auspiciousness of crossing 200 to go and found it rating very high – ar9.99 – and we have a small consultative draft left to check the ar for 100 tonight, i hope.

thanks to everyone who is ordering shirts and doing other fundraising – really appreciated. i will keep the updates going after we arrive and i can get a local  isp – hope to use rya.org.uk but will advise in a day or two. i suspect we have a bit of reading to do – all we’ve had since the hf died has been malcolm’s laconic 800kb summaries twice a day. looking forward to it.

thanks all y’all. from alexl’s description, we will cross the webcam from left to right in the foreground and park in the right hand corner somewhere. if it looks beyond the big jetty as well, you might just see us coming into the harbour from right to left and turning towards at the end of the jetty.

1-15. Falmouth, Malta, and environs

Jun 01, 2005 – 1300hrs UTC

1300hrs 01 Jun 2005 UTC Map Ref 269

late tomoz or early friday is the go. we’re on time for tomoz at the mo, but seems to be softening again. we will set the dayglo orange storm jib on the inner forestay for our entry, so all y’all on the webcam can see us amid all the others. if it’s dark, we’ll turn on the spreader lights as soon as we are out of the shipping areas and the storm jib will do the proverbial. either way, you shoild certainly be able to see us. who’s in line for the eta prizes? we don’t know nuffin  out here. my oz mobile should be operational from around midday tomoz – not sure how good the service would be at lands end.

if we get in at night, we may be confined on board until customs open in the morning – i don’t know whether they have a 24 hour service. thirstmaking – perhaps they would allow a small delivery to be dropped on the pontoon next to us.

1-15. Falmouth, Malta, and environs

Jun 01, 2005 – 1815hrs UTC

1815hrs 01 Jun 2005 UTC Map Ref 270

148 to go and it’s a lottery. the wind is softening and i don’t have a forecast. my feeling is that we’ll get in around midnight tomorrow but it ain’t necessarily so. we’ve finished the gin, so there’s some incentive to get there. only one ship so far. pristine ransa burgee flying – thanks ransa, and j m-b, your ensign too as the courtesy flag under the q. will get it back to you in due course, or a new one if you’d rather. to everyone at ransa, thanks for coming along for the ride – we sail virtual races with y’all every saturday – and if there’s anyone over here – dave – come and find us – my oz mobie will be switched to messagebank as soon as i get my local sim and i’ll collect oz messages from it a couple of times each day.

updates will be a bit more domestic for a few weeks but we will keep them coming. wait till you see the to-do list. chances are we will stay in fmth for all june then go to lymington.

peter bruce tells me that yesterday’s big whale was a finwhale, 2nd biggest in the world. coool. no attempts to identify the smaller ones yet.

hang in there with us – it’ll be a long 24 hours.

1-15. Falmouth, Malta, and environs

Jun 01, 2005 – 2215hrs UTC

2215hrs 01 Jun 2005 UTC Map Ref 271

there are 16 submarine cables on my chart radiating out from lands end heading nw-sw. just thought you’d like to know. we are going well – expect to stare into the lizard’s gullet around 1600 tomorrow and fmth from 1800. front due same time 25-35 sw so cd be busy. look for orange dayglo storm jib on webcam from 1800 but will update on the way in from lizrd, perhaps by mobile to malcolm or steve.

seem to be bisecting angle between main shipping lanes – noice, but still need extra vigilance. quite murky, tho vis good.

1-15. Falmouth, Malta, and environs

Jun 01, 2005 – 2315hrs UTC

2315hrs 01 Jun 2005 UTC Map Ref 272

went back to cockpit after the last one and almost immediately, 3 ships in sight.  seems we’re getting closer to something or other. reaching for towel and hgttg.

1-15. Falmouth, Malta, and environs

Jun 02, 2005 – 0345hrs UTC

0345hrs 02 Jun 2005 UTC Map Ref 273

unless we break something, we will get in today. current eta around 2200z at the harbour entrance. will update as we go until in mobile range and will then call mal or steve from close in with a firm(ish.) estimate for the webcammers. will take the time as we pass the end of the commercial jetty for the arrival time prize. watch this space…

1-15. Falmouth, Malta, and environs

Jun 02, 2005 – 0630hrs UTC

0630hrs 02 Jun 2005 UTC Map Ref 274

accolades:in case it gets too busy for a while:

malcolm robinson in hobart + stevejacksoninsydney: for giving us so much of their time and skill running the website and keeping us in touch – can’t wait to see the website – thanks heaps guys.

kevin fleming: info@flemingselfsteer.com for an elegant and wonderfully effecdtive self steering unit and for his personal interest and concern – the man actually sent us money to get the bearings reamed because he felt the bearings should have got us here – well they did, kevin, thanks.

john witchard: wmdiesel@tpg.com.au – we have had one of his 22hp kubota engines in berrimilla for about 5 years. it hasn’t missed a beat in the most trying circumstances – and all the spares come from the tractor shop, not a specialised marine engineering outfit. thanks john.

brian shilland: who has made all our sails since we bought the boat. he listens, makes great sails that work and they have lasted. the delivery sails we are using  are all over 10 years old – the main has done 8 hobarts including ’98, 5 lord howes and half way round the world through a couple of 80 kt blows and it will get us home. onya brian and thanks.

and especially all y’all for sticking with us, for your support and humour in times of joy and adversity and for giving us something to wrap this venture arouind and inject some purpose it may not have had without you.  we love youse all..

1-15. Falmouth, Malta, and environs

Jun 02, 2005 – 1145hrs UTC

1145hrs 02 Jun 2005 UTC Map Ref 275

50 to go . i’ve run further than that. looking like about 1900z at the harbour entrance – perhaps earlier. 37 to the lizard. first consultation point.

past the scillies – very big traffic separation scheme just south of them – 5 lanes, but really two, one westbound, one eastbound, with very strict rules about entry and exit. we just skirted to the south. huge container ship – flush deck with  small tower stbd side like an aircraft carrier, containers stacked 10 high and about 20 rows of them. not nice on a dark night. surrounded by cormorants – grubby brown and white version with yellowish heads and a spectacular brilliant white bird with black wingtips.

1-15. Falmouth, Malta, and environs

Jun 02, 2005 – 1550hrs UTC

1550hrs 02 Jun 2005 UTC Map Ref 276

in mobile range + have spoken to isabella in fmth.. knew we were close when a pusser’s frigate appeared out of the gloom to the north, together with accompanying lynx. can see all of mounts bay except lizard point, which is in the mist. don’t have accurate tidal atlas so only rough estimate, but fmth eta 1945zish plus a bit for the tide perhaps. they seem to have done away with customs formalities and we will need to find a way to immigrate pete’s oz passport, but the pubs will still be open and is + g have a bottle of gin.

so it may just be party time. we will consult as soon as the lizard appears. or maybe before. watch for the storm jib – dont think we could be any more conspic. and we’ll be thiking of all y’all.

1-15. Falmouth, Malta, and environs

June 02, 2005 – 1730hrs UTC

1730hrs 02 Jun 2005 UTC Map Ref 277

this isengland- balmy sunny evening after the front this afternoon. we’re about to pass the lizard into a 1+  knot tide so eta fmth entrance 2015. then about 15 – 20 minutes to get in. will call mal about half an hour out so as not to wake him too early. ozmobile operational – +61418243600.

wooooohoooo.

1-15. Falmouth, Malta, and environs

June 02, 2005 - 1855 hrs UTC

02 Jun 2005

1855 hrs UTC: SMS From Alex (yes, it works overseas too – don’t tell teenagers!):

We’ll be late. Big tide. Praps 2200

That’s 6pm Falklands, 11pm Falmouth, midnight Malta, 8am Australian Eastern, 10am New Zealand

2000hrs UTC:Mobilephone call from Alex. Probably an hour away (that’s an hour earlier than above). Very tired but looking forward to a number of gins with Isabella.

I noticed the Falmouth webcam pause for a little while at its usual turn off time and then start again a bit later – thanks for sorting that out Keith! [Falmouth webcam can be seen here]

1-15. Falmouth, Malta, and environs

June 02, 2005 - 2100hrs UTC

2100hrs 02 Jun 2005 UTC Map Ref 278

Phone call from Alex: Just passed theFalmouthjetty! Hello to all and congratulations to the prize winners (Peter Doyle and John Hamilton)

2130UTC: Tied up alongside a very crowded jetty. About to have a g+t.

1-15. Falmouth, Malta, and environs

June 04, 2005 - 1430hrs UTC │Falmouth

1430hrs 04 Jun 2005 UTC Falmouth

Berri now on mooring I-14 at R. Cornwall YC – great place – will be hard to leave!

Tks so much for emails – just printed a book of them at the caff, painfully slow…

Annie T – thanks for contacts – absolutely wonderful – long story, will fill in later – but have use of waterfront shed and workshop! Also got your message – gobsmacked – pse send to Hilary and huge thanks.

Bill K – thanks for offer – also gobsmacked – will be in touch in a few days.

Roger, thanks for big effort with RFD – will call you in a couple of days.

And thanks with attitude to all y’all for wonderful emails, support and general good humour – we will keep this going whle we’re here – will try to get better comms so can write longer updates.

1-15. Falmouth, Malta, and environs

June 05, 2005 - 1830hrs UTC │Falmouth

1830hrs 05 Jun 2005 UTC Falmouth

 Seems ridiculous – pete and me sitting in an internet caff at 0900 on wet sunday morning in Fmth on our way down to Berri and we’re really much less in touch and flexible than we were in Berri when the HF was working. Sailmail is great! I now have the mighty laptop configured for a Virgin account but we cant get access to a phone line. Local calls are timed, the place we are staying at has a walk around phone which is permanently on so the laptop cant get a dial tone so don’t even know if the connection works. 

Frustrating but we’ll get it sorted. The best option seems to be to get the radio fixed…

Going to do a big sort out on the boat today – trying to get things in more or less conforming heaps so we can start unloading – wich we have to do using the RCYC launch  at high water over the seawall into Jeremy’s shed. Nothing’s as easy as in Oz.

Tomorrow we contact riggers and electronics persons and get started on the fixes. Have discovered that this caff can actually accept downloads from the gigastik so will try and send some photos and the to-do list perhaps tomorrow.

Simon – I will copy the whole SOB folder on to a cd and send it to you – also airmail and easymail for Mal in case we lose the record. SOB has been a bit quirky of late- you might like to have a look at the tracks and see if there’s anything obvious – it’s been working pretty hard!

BJM – the Chain Locker is, as you thought, full of pokies and jukeboxes but still has a bit of the old atmosphere.  Not somewhere really conducive to a quiet ale tho.

I have been slowly reading all the catch up emails and Gust book entries – feeling as if all y’all are writing about someone else – hardly seems real but thanks in spades – it’s been a humbling experience and hard to describe how I feel at the moment but there’s still a deal of the driven soul around here sweating out the details of the next few weeks to make sure the next two stages work as well as the last ones

 

And it’s been an amazing ride and I’m glad you all got a kick out of it too.

1-15. Falmouth, Malta, and environs

June 06, 2005 – 1800hrs UTC │Falmouth

 1800hrs 06 Jun 2005 UTC Falmouth

Domestic updates for a couple of months from here. I have some more photos, some fromStanleyand theAtlanticand some historical which i will put on a cd for M &S. Here’s the To Do list for Fmth – just starting to get stuck into it – the rigger had a look this morning and things may not be too bad – but, as he said, there’s no guarantee with this stuff – it could go at any time and you are always taking a chance. Not good for the confidence levels – and we may change from swages to StaLok fittings for any other shrouds that we decide to renew.

We have organised the club launch to help us start unloading later today at high water and then we can start the massive cleanup. Yesterday was damp and dismold and we had a soggy time out on the water packing stuff into bags and sorting through six months of organic thingies in the corners of shelves and under bunkboards. Will try to photograph and video the barnacles and slime if the sun comes out today. Else we’ll do it as we slip the boat.

I’ve been organising 3rd partycar insurance for the old banger- nightmare – and having a slanging match with Telstra about collecting voicemail messages – still does’t always work – international roaming is now a complicated mish mash of local providers, undelivered SMS messages, funny charges and no-one knowing the full story. Another nightmare. I’m not good with bureaucracy and market speak from helpdesks – Hiii! – my name is tweetie! Now how can I help with your problem!! all said with rising inflection and often that note of boredom that must go with the job. But occasionally you get a real gem who makes up for all the others and I found one yesterday.

And the yard has just phoned to arrange to slip the boat so things are moving.

Went for a run in the rain yesterday and can hardly walk today. Serves me right.

You have asked about sleep patterns, when does the movement ground stop moving, how does the tummy cope with change of diet etc. My sleep pattern was geared around about two good 2-3 hour sleeps every 24 hours, usually during the night but sometimes just when I was knackered. Ashore, I usually get 4-5 broken hours at night and I’m back into that now. Moving ground didn’t really last more than the first few hours and my tummy likes fresh veggies and beer and other goodies. Haven’t been hallucinating as far as I know, unless it’s all hallucination anyway – sometimes feels as if it is..

1-15. Falmouth, Malta, and environs

June 07, 2005 – 1800hrs UTC │Devon

1800hrs 07 Jun 2005 UTC Devon

At my sister’s after 3 really intensive days emptying the boat – still hard to believe we got it all in – and today we started on the cleanup – all the interior black with mould and other ferals – bleach gets most of it off but it ain’t a pleasant job. Big achievement logged. Boots now in orange plastic bag – interesting to see how the ferals cope with that as a photosynthesis exercise. The silver lining though was the can of The Doctor we found under something slimy but still with sufficient structural integrity to preserve the compression – AND the plastic (sorry,AL- no choice really) bottle of Glenfiddich. Woohoo! The Doctor was consulted forthwith but sadly, the can of oysters that was with it had rather lost it’s desire to serve. The Restaurant at the End of the Universe cow would not approve.

We go back for the remaining cleanup tomorrow and then dinner with the other half of the Pippin mob fromHobart. Annie T, thanks for the contact – and your fundraising – can’t go beyond gobsmacking. Will pay for mooring fees for stay in Fmth. Huge.

For the first time since we got here, I think I can see beyond the immediate – things are fitting into a sort of plan and will get done – we have found an electronics person who we thinik knows what he’s talking about – didn’t go Huh? when we asked him about Sailmail and Pactor modems. He’s inSpaintill next week but I think worth waiting for.

The yard is ready for us and the sailmaker has collected our rather tatty offering and is ready to transform it.

And coming from Oz has its advantages. The local chandlery has lost the contact for the manufacturers of Lanokote – the heavy industrial version of cholesterol  – lanolene – made in Nowra – and I was able to ring Bob and Bear at Rushcutter and pass on the info – so we qualify for a discount..

And we will meet Leroy sometime soon – extraordinary rendezvous.

1-15. Falmouth, Malta, and environs

June 09, 2005 - 1400hrs UTC │Falmouth

1400hrs 09 Jun 2005 UTC Falmouth

We’ve had another somewhat knackering morning degunking slime, mould and all the human detritus that accumulates in limber holes and other inaccessible places as well as the slime off the gelcoat which has cooked on and bored into the surface – what’s in this stuff? – and about a square metre of barnacles from under the counter. Berri now sparkling inside and reasonably clean outside – looks like her old self again – very high in the bows cos no sails and other stuff up front and a bit low at the back cos Kevvo’s still attached with nothing to counterbalance.Falklandsdamage to starboard side superficial but obvious – needs TLC.

We hope to slip her next week so now we are shedbound doing a massive sort to decide what goes racing, what gets stored, sent home or just chucked.

Will probably go to London Monday/Tuesday to visit RORC and get the paperwork done for Fastnet entry and just talk to them about requirements – much better than just doing it over the phone – one can do it over a beer.

From Rowley B.

Package delivered to my front-door yesterday.
Am delighted with my “”Berrimilla Around”” jumper.

As an aside, I note a reference is dispatches to a product “”Lanokote””. Does Berri use this on its prop & shaft?
Antifoul treatment is a perenial problem and I’m looking for a better alternative.
Maybe one of the Berri support crew already has the answer?

Rowley – Lanokote works as an antifoul but you do have to keep checking – havent tried to apply it under water but might go on. We use on earthplates as well. Great on your hands too. You can get spray cans of the stuff.

From Malcom C.

A thought from the southern ocean.  To provide a smoother ride for your towed turbine you may wish to put a springer in place so that the cable to the turbine doesn’t transmit all the motion of the boat to the towed body.  A strong band of rubber (bike tire’s inner tube) from the boat to the cable, creating a slack loop in the cable, will enable the rubber to smooth out the shocks a bit, and smooth out the movement of the turbine.  If the turbine does less porpoising it may experience less cavitation.

Malcom – thanks – good idea. Will have a new turbine with two blades soon!

Rigger confident there is a relatively cheap fix – we’re still working o it but I will let you know when we do it- not yet in touch with electronics bod – next week.

Mark B – thanks – we’ll wait till we get back and contact you then.

Just heard from Leroy – we’ll see him and Karen next weekend (17th). WOOHOO!

1-15. Falmouth, Malta, and environs

June 13, 2005 - 1800hrs UTC │London

1800hrs 13 Jun 2005 UTC London

I went to London today to collect the paperwork for Fastnet entry from the RORC (which has one of the best positioned clubhouses right in the centre of London, just around the corner from St James’ Palace). I’m going back tomorrow and may need to get into deep and serious discussions – it seems we don’t comply in at least two rather critical areas and perhaps more.  There is a formula for maximum cockpit volume that we may exceed (but that is fixable by including polystyrene or an empty fuel tank) and a requirement for a crash bulkhead forward that we certainly don’t have, plus two watertight bulkheads in the hull, also somewhat lacking in Berri. I’ve only seen one other boat with these – a single handed round the world boat – and I may have misread the requirement. There are several other requirements that differ from the S2H list but not showstoppers. And I have not yet seen a copy of the special appendix covering two handed entries.

Could be an interesting day.

For the romantics (and the classicists, I think) I also went to visit Harrison‘s clocks at the Royal Observatory in Greenwick. H4 was there – one of the 2 or 3 most important technological inventions of the last 500 years for the British because it gave them the capacity to find their way around the oceans. Cook had an exact copy on his second voyage. K2 was there too – it went with Bligh in the Bounty and then to Pitcairn with the mutineers and then to Japan with a Nantucket whaler. Just being close to them is goosepimpling.

And Nelson’s Trafalgar uniform, complete with musket ball hole and bloody socks – though not Nelson’s but his secretary’s blood.

1-15. Falmouth, Malta, and environs

Jun 20, 2005 - 0800hrs UTC │Falmouth, Meeting Leroy and Karen Chiao

My apologies – it’s been a very long time. We have been very busy with the smaller Berri fixes while we await the arrival of the electronics whizz tomorrow, We are also expecting a journalist from Yachting Monthly and another from Yachting World – both seem very interested and the ISS contact is just as fascinating over here as it has been in Australia – and, of course, for us.

On which subject, we collected Leroy and Karen Chiao from Newquay airport early on Saturday – I was trepidating a bit because – well, because.

Turns out they both drink Guinness with connoisseurial gusto, were prepared to carry out a number of Consultations on a gentle tour of the Falmouth waterfront, including the Chain Locker, Brian, which isn’t as badly done by as I first thought. We introduced them to the idea of a proper breakfast, being a Consultation with a bacon sandwich and Tabasco to follow and we think the idea may have caught on. And Karen has all five books in the HGTTG trilogy and understands the jokes. Need I say more. Coool and froody people.

And on Sunday, the four of us were invited to lunch with some other friends who had been in contact with Leroy in space. You would all instantly recognise the name but I must respect their privacy. One of the most interesting weekends of my life – magic understates it by a few of Leroy’s orbits.

Berri is still out of the water – the rudder shudder was indeed a loose lower bearing but as this is more of a locator than weight bearing, we think it is easily fixed. Pete has been dismantling Kevvo up the road with a local enthusiast of 78 who has a splendid workshop that has accumulated all sorts of interesting machinery over the years and who likes the challenge – a real perfectionist of the old school – should be finished today. I have been plumbing in the desalinator through a new inlet up forward of the main bulkhead and that will be finished today too. I am also working on realigning the forward cockpit drains so that they work better and we must put on some coats of antifoul before thursday which – if the tide is right – should be the day. Shroud workaround is, we think, just around the corner – we intend to use StaLocks instead of swages and just replace the two lowers. The rigger will do a proper check of all the upper swages when he goes up the mast.

Sails are being repaired and will be ready on the 29th when we get back from Malta and I will be getting out the racing sails from the shed later today if there is time.

And the bills are starting to roll in. Very many thanks to everyone who has contributed with the shirts and straight donations – we are really grateful and will keep you posted on the distribution.

Must go and soil my hands else Pete will think I’m bludging again. Will try to be more chatty from here on. We will be in Malta from 24 – 28 so may be a gap there but will do my best.

1-15. Falmouth, Malta, and environs

Jun 20, 2005 – 1800hrs UTC │Falmouth

1800hrs 20 Jun 2005 UTC Falmouth

Seems my update about our fastnet entry has been lost in the void somewhere. I sent it from here – the caff – so anything’s possible. We are officially entered in the 2 handed division – I had misread all the things I thought might be showstoppers and I was able to complete all the paperwork and pay the money and, subject to an actual safety inspection, we are on the way to the start line. WOOH!OO! 44 years later…

I went to a presentation at the RORC afterwards and they very kindly asked me to present the prizes – being the wimp I am in public, I found it all a bit difficult but lots of interested people there including some of The Enemy in the 2 handed div. All very helpful and we may go to a small regatta on theBeaulieuRiverwhere I grew up early in July. Really looking forward to that if we can get there.

Reasonably successful day – kevvo finished except for a bit of welding, desalinator done and cockpit drains half done. A bit frustrating because the chandlers all seem to have some of the stuff but not all so there’s a lot of to-in and fro-ing.

YM journo arrives Thursday.

1-15. Falmouth, Malta, and environs

Jun 22, 2005 – 1015hrs UTC │Falmouth

1015hrs 22 Jun 2005 UTC Falmouth

[ed: I have included an observer update from Alex’s sister, Isabella, who has been a huge help in the UK – don’t know how she puts up with him!]

Isabella writes: They are due inMalta Friday / Saturday. Mum is worrying what to give the lads for breakfast. I didn’t mention a consultation with aTabasco bacon roll, or she’d have tried to organise it.

Just spoke to Alex who is going ape over internet comms being so bad inFalmouth. Internet caff connection has gone down, there’s a queue at the library and the yacht Club turfed him off after 10 minutes.

He can’t wait for the boat to be back in the water so he can use the radio – he says they think they found the prob today with a waterlogged circuit breaker but have to wait until Berri’s afloat again to test it properly.

[ed: now, back to Alex]

Launch day is now crack of dawn on Friday, before we set off for Heathrow [ed: going toMaltato visit Alex’s mum]. The to-do list is looking much more friendly – sails done, liferaft ordered, rudder fixed – Pete did a great job there – had to lift the main suspension plate in the cockpit by a few mm so that it takes the weight off the bottom pin. New cockpit drain seacocks and tubes, desalinator plumbed in properly, tiller being fixed, kevvo due back from the welder today.

Bill, I’ll try to ring you about the liferaft in the next few days.

And the radio is working again WOOOHOOO! The problem was a faulty circuit breaker – we had tried to isolate it at sea but didn’t really know how it was all set up. The acid test will be when it goes back in the water and I connect the laptop and try to contact sailmail. And get some fastnet grib files…

But the usual problems that you will all recognise – as soon as we start on one fix we find another just underneath it so it’s slow going.

1-15. Falmouth, Malta, and environs

Jun 24, 2005 – 0900hrs UTC │Falmouth

0900hrs 24 Jun 2005 UTC Falmouth

Berri is back in the water looking much more like her old self. HF radio works – I think – will have to do some serious testing later – but the laptop is not firing up the USB to serial port box – and the laptop seems to have lost all knowledge of its 20-odd comm ports. Therefore no sailmail. Don’t know what’s going on – Simon, any ideas? The old version of the SOB comm port detector can only find one port – haven’t tried the new one yet.

Have not tried the backup laptop yet either – we just ran out of time – big diagnostic session when we get back fromMaltaon 1/7. We hope to call in at the Fleet Air Arm museum on the way back and we hope that we will be able to get the coal hole in their Sea Vixen opened up for Pete to try out.

The task after that is to sort out the essential racing gear and load it, repack the stuff we will need for the Fmth-Oz voyage and package the rest for sea freight back to Sydney to give us a bit more room. Not as simple as it may look – and we have to get boat and car to Lymington, if possible by 6/7 for a regatta on theBeaulieuRiveron 8,9/7 It’s been a big effort but it seems to be more or less on track except for sailmail.

Then it’s all on again. Hope the laptop can be sorted.

Driving to Heathrow this afternoon and off on the redeye toMaltatonight – gets in at 0115 tomoz. Ugh. After which we will have several Consultations with my Mum who likes her medicine too. Will try to update from there.

1-15. Falmouth, Malta, and environs

Jun 24, 2005 – 2045hrs UTC │Heathrow

2045hrs 24 Jun 2005 UTC Heathrow

We’re at Heathrow after negotiating the parking lot that is the motorway system in southern england – awful and we cut it very fine to discover that the flight has been delayed anyway. Time to Consult.

1-15. Falmouth, Malta, and environs

Jun 25, 2005 – 2130hrs UTC │Malta

Somewhat knackered after a very late night last night  – plane was delayed, then lots of talking…

Took Pete on a whirlwind tour of the Upper Baracca overlooking Grand Harbour and Ta’Qali and the aviation museum and Rabat and Mdina, where there’s a Norman house dating from about the 13th century. Doug, I have photos of the old DC3 if you’d like them –  can email when I download the camera. And they have most of a Swordfish which they found inCanadaof all places.  I want to trace its history, but they dont yet have a serial number.

Big day tomorrow – my Mother is laying on food and drink for all comers, so we have to behave and wear our Berri shirts.

Quick visit planned to Gozo on Monday to visit the cliffs and  the wild thyme at Ta Cenc and back toUKon Tuesday afternoon and it all starts again

Lilian, thanks – I passed on your message.

1-15. Falmouth, Malta, and environs

Jun 28, 2005 - 0500hrs UTC │Malta

0500hrs 28 Jun 2005 UTC Malta

We will be back in uk tonight, and going via Yeovilton and Isabella’s to Falmouth in a couple of days. I will go to London, probably on thursday, because the BBC wants me to read one of the log episodes for a programme they are doing – more later on this – I’ m not sure of the context. Might  get to see the weather forecaster reading the forecast – one of the more enduring memories of my childhood.

The photos of the party at my Mum’s were taked by Natlino Fenech  from the Times of Malta and his article comes out today – will do a link when it does.  Leroy signed our shirts so we have a bit of history.

Kris, thanks, – I’ll be in touch.

1-15. Falmouth, Malta, and environs

Jun 30, 2005 - 0640hrs UTC │Devon

0640hrs 30 Jun 2005 UTC Devon

Yesterday we went to the Fleet Air Arm Museum at Yeovilton on the way back from Heathrow. A bit of intensive nostalgia for me because a friend had arranged for us to climb over and into their Sea Vixen. It’s the familiar smell that gets to you first – hydraulic oil, rubber seals, burnt paraffin, sweaty parachute gear in the ejection seat, the residue of the cooling air that is blown over the electronics and all enhanced by the memory of the rather sweet sensation you get from a pressurised oxygen mask. The aircraft probably hasn’t flown for thirty years but it’s all still there. Pete sat in both seats – the coal hole is just as claustrophobic and most of the gear is still in it.

Today I’m off to a BBC studio somewhere in Shepherd’s Bush in London to read a bit of the log for a programme called ‘Something Understood’ - regular Sunday piece on Radio 4 and can be heard over the internet so we will let you know when it is due to go out. Then to the RORC to complete the remaining paperwork for the Fastnet entry – crew list and disclaimers and all the usual stuff that we have to sign these days.

Back to Falmouth tomorrow and the big sort begins. We hope to leave for the Solent in about a week.

1-15. Falmouth, Malta, and environs

Jul 02, 2005 - 1115hrs UTC │Falmouth

1115hrs 02 Jul 2005 UTC Falmouth


[ed: From Alex’s sister, Isabella] Alex is currently up in London swanning around with the BBC. We had a fairly riotous night here last night which involved quantities of Pimms, Retsina and some totally disgraceful choc roulade. We despatched Pete off to Falmouth about half an hour ago with the damp washing we forgot to remove from the line last night because of the combined effects of Pimms, Retsina and choc roulade. And because Pete said it wouldn’t rain.

Alex will be back down there tomorrow.

He borrowed the attached photo from Mum in Malta on the promise that she gets it back. So I have scanned it as best I can. It has faded from being in a frame, but I’ve whoosed out some of the scaggy blobby bits deposited by Mediterranean vermin over the years.

It shows our hero on his first Fastnet race in 1961 and as you can see, the effects of a lifetime of alcohol have demanded their price. He said you might like it for the website and the Fastnet section… no doubt the Berri Team is huddled in convocational planning of this important new area of the site.
Hope all’s well over there in the Calm Before the Fastnet.


[ed: back to Alex] The to-do list continues to shrink. I collected the liferaft this morning and the delivery sails have been fixed. The laptop is now talking to the radio and the modem again – phew! – but I haven’t managed to raise Sailmail so there might still be a glurg somewhere. Given that the Belgian sailmail station is just up the road by comparison with some that we have been talking to, we ought to be able to get them. The laptop problem was, as I suspected, a dud USB cable. I’m surprised it lasted as long as it did.

We are going to try to get the vhf radio upgraded to the new AIS system (cant remember what that stands for) [ed: see below for info on AIS] which means that all the ships we are able to see will appear on our new SOB navigation package and we should appear on their plotters. It’s all done automatically via the vhf radio and it is one of the reasons why the big ships we met were no longer listening on Chanel 16. Big safety plus if we can get it working.

Present plan is to leave for Lymington on Wednesday or Thursday – earlier if we can. The Beaulieu regatta is looking a bit tight but still possible.

We have arranged a rendezvous either here or in the Channel with a friend who is taking a RYA training boat out to Waterford to watch the start of the Tall Ships race.
Should be fun.

Still some minor fixes left but mostly under control. Will send more photos when I manage to get all the bits together in the same place.

Malcom, good idea, I know someone who used to sail with them.

[ed: Thanks to Simon Blundell at digiboat.com.au (simon@digiboat.com.au)]
AIS – Automatic Identification System. Correctly called UAIS for Universal AIS.
a.k.a
VTS – Vessel Tracking System.
For the sailors out there who have been understandably concerned about the phasing out of compulsory monitoring of VHF-16. The AIS technology answers our concerns.
Some links:
www.digiboat.biz/international/support/faq.asp#num121
 www.aislive.com
All boaters should be learning about this new technology. It is a bigger advancement than RADAR was and probably as significant as GPS (now we know where everyone ELSE is, as well as ourselves).

1-16. Lymington

Jul 05, 2005 - 0800hrs UTC │Falmouth

0800hrs 05 Jul 2005 UTC Falmouth

G’day from a wet and cold and miserable Falmouth. Looks as if the rollercoaster might be on its way again – the plan is to leave about midday tomorrow for the Solent, hoping to get to Portland Bill at low tide so we get the benefit of the flood all the way to Lymington from there. But the best laid plans…

I’d forgotten how difficult it is to be completely dependent on the tide (about a 4+ metre range here) – and how easy it is in Sydney where there are floating pontoons and available power- we cant go alongside a pontoon anywhere here without paying a wheelbarrow load of money to whoever the operating authority is and we can’t dry out beside a wall because Berri’s keel shape wont allow her to sit vertically.

The HF radio still isn’t working properly and the laptop is misbehaving again with unstable links to the USB devices it needs to talk to – desperately frustrating because anyone who understands these things could probably fix most of the problems in 10 minutes. I have a step-through instruction set from Simon at Digiboat – thanks Simon – which may get us through the USB stuff but the radio will now have to wait for the ICOM expert in Lymington. I think it is major – a new tuner, perhaps, but we can’t isolate the problem here – no-one seems to know enough about the radio. It just isn’t transmitting or receiving although it makes all the right noises and the right lights flash.

And there is a crack in a spreader bracket that the riggers found yesterday – definitely not a showstopper (I think it has been there for a long time) but should be

fixed before we leave for Oz – means we have to lift the mast for a 10 minute welding job – I rather wish they had picked it up 3 weeks ago. Lifting the mast requires a bit of co-ordination – theres a one hour window at high tide when we can get across the sill into the lifting berth, lift the mast and get out over the sill again – no opportunity for getting it wrong and we can’t afford to get stuck in the berth when it dries out – and we have to book in, arrange the crane driver and the riggers have to get the bracket off and get it to the welder and all to arrive at the right time and be ready to fix overnight…And then come back the next day and repeat the process in reverse. Now due to happen when we get back after the Fastnet. Everyone has been very helpful but we have run out of time to do it before we go to Lymington.

Might be easier to do there.

The rest of the rig has been fixed – we settled for replacing all the lower swages with sta-locks which are re-usable and self fixable if we need to do it ourselves – just need a length of wire. About $2kAUD instead of 10k or so for a complete rerig.

Sorry no photos – just can’t get this caff pc to accept and send – will try from Lymington.

Now off to stock up with medicinal compounds for the trip up the channel – may be an update tomorrow but probably not till about Friday.

1-16. Lymington

Jul 06, 2005 - 0915hrs UTC │ex Falmouth

0915hrs 06 Jul 2005 UTC ex Falmouth

[ed: relayed by phone via Malcolm] 10:15 (presumably 9:15 UTC) departedFalmouth for Lymington. 9:40 abeam St Anthony’s Head. Isabella and Graham up on the point taking photos. Wind 25-30kt NW, going nicely with a couple of reefs. Hope to be in Lymington tomorrow night but depends on catching the tide. Really loving being under sail again!

[ed: from Alex via sitcom an hour later] a quick update to check that satcom c is working – still no sailmail – we’re abut 10 miles east of fmth heading for start point, then portland. 30 kt nw wind so going fast – still getting used to the tides – lots of other boats around. berri seems to be working well – so far so good.  both a bit seedy after farewells last night.

1-16. Lymington

Jul 06, 2005 - 1445hrs UTC │off Eddystone Lighthouse

5 miles south of the eddystone light – one of englands earliest lighthouses just off plymouth- last seen in 1962, going the other way. it has really got throught to me that we are acctually here – in berrimilla in the english channel. astonishing. sort of wow.

kevvo steering, new bearings and tight rudder both seem to work. start point just visible ahead, long line of ships going west along the southern horizon in the separation zone. haven’t planned this trip – top of head stuff, very slack – we hope to make the fairway buoy at the w end of ther needles channel at low water tomorrow afternoon – so we can go into the solent on a flood tide. may have to finesse it a bit..

1-16. Lymington

Jul 07, 2005 – 0630hrs UTC

0630hrs 07 Jul 2005 UTC 54’33”N 001’49”E

sunrise over the needles – or would have been if i could have seen them – we’re just passing anvil point, needles fairway buoy dead ahead at 10 miles and the tide is flooding – woohoo – but all arse, no class. completely unplanned, very fast riip. all going well, should be in lymington by the time the pubs open. gobsmacking – just can’t believe we’re really here.

having said which, since we’ve been ashore in the fmth fleshpots and now baack at sea, i’m confronted with gentle dread about just how flimsy and fragile this little unit really is and how much of the venture is still ahead. but i still have my towel, so i won’t panic.

1-16. Lymington

Jul 10, 2005 - 0730hrs UTC

0730hrs 10 Jul 2005 UTC Lymington

Big weekend – Katherine and my brother David arrived and we took Berri to the Royal southampton Yacht Club on the Beaulieu River on Friday and rafted up with some of the boats that were there for the regatta – then up river yesterday morning past Gilbury where I grew up and learned to sail, to Bucklers Hard where there was a shipbuilding yard that built many of the ships used by Nelson and the Navy in the 17th and 18th centuries. Gilbury much changed after 40 years and Bucklers Hard now a commercial tourist venture. A short stay on the pontoon cost us £11.50 or about $30 and it didn’t get any better. But the beer in the Master Builder’s Hotel was still ok.

We sailed over to Cowes on the Isle of Wight to have a look at the place again and find the Fastnet start line and then to Yarmouth where we intended to stay the night only to find the harbour full and a huge messy queue trying to get in – so we went back to Lymington. Sailing here is not the same as inAustralia- it is so crowded and expensive that I don’t think I’d like to live here any more.

Some photos if I can get this to send them – Pete in the pilot’s seat and the coal hole of a Sea Vixen, the Needles (in their way almost as significant for us as Cape Horn – they mark some sort of arrival at the half way point), Gilbury, our braced rig in the Atlantic.

[ed: some relevant piccies ]

1-16. Lymington

Jul 11, 2005 - 1400hrs UTC │Lymington

1400hrs 11 Jul 2005 UTC Lymington

For the runners and walkers – I was shamed this morning by an email from the editor of the Sydney Striders Blister magazine asking for a contribution. ‘Nothing to say – not running much’ was about all I could think of.  [Ed: http://www.sydneystriders.org.au/ ]

So climbed into the sweaty gear and took off around the Salterns – lovely run from the yacht haven around the dykes to Keyhaven.  And back down the shady lanes – it was very hot indeed – never thought I’d need Oz marathon runners’ techniques here – run in the shade, find the headwind, wear a hat…shady lanes a bit of a relief, but lots of nettles along the edges.  About 12k as a rough estimate and it took me about 75 minutes – handicapper please note. Fat – corpulent even and very unfit.

The Salterns are a bit of feudal history – they are salt pans formed from ancient gravel pits with dykes and sluices and they were used to evaporate sea water and collect salt. But – big but – the water, the land and the salt belonged to the King so the collectors were taxed and had to front at the Exchequer to pay their taxes. The exchequer is now a very nice pub called Chequers which can be fallen into if dehydration gets too severe.

And Keyhaven was where I had my first and for a very long time my only sailing race win in a serious race – possibly even until 1998. In a Mirror dinghy with Margaret and Judi – wonder where they are now. Ahh – nostalgia!

The to do list is about to be revised and I will start a pre-Fastnet diary for the countdown – it’s a month away from Yesterday.

1-16. Lymington

Jul 15, 2005 - 0700hrs UTC │Lymington

0700hrs 15 Jul 2005 UTC Lymington

The countdown begins. In three weeks from today, we must move Berri closer to the start line so that we can get to the briefing inCoweson the evening of Aug 6, the day before the start. We will probably go toSouthamptonand go over on the ferry that evening just for the briefing.Coweswill be a real shambles with over 1000 boats there at the end ofCowesweek and there ain’t no hope of finding anywhere to park overnight.

The HF radio has gone back to ICOM – major fault, as yet undiagnosed, and awaiting cost-to-fix estimate with some trepidation. To-do list otherwise manageable, I hope. Mostly trivia but we are also intending to upgrade the VHF if we can afford it so that the big ships can see us and we can see them – the new AIS system.

Will do a new list after the weekend – this is a few days of family time – Hilary and Katherine are here and we are expecting Pete’s niece with 100 of her friends tonight to go for a jolly sail around theSolent.

Much planning still to do for the race – waiting for Peter Bruce to get back from his cruise to hold my hand as we work through it. Much more difficult that aHobartbecause of the tides and headlands.

1-16. Lymington

Jul 16, 2005 - 1400hrs UTC │Lymington

1400hrs 16 Jul 2005 UTC Lymington

Some more pics from last w/e on theBeaulieuRiver.

There’s been a small drift towards the pear shaped. ICOM have found that the main processor in the HF transceiver has failed – and they don’t have a spare in theUK- and it takes a month to get one fromJapan. Mildly outrageous – they are trying to find one in Europe and if they can’t I’m going to get serious and ask for a new radio because it is still under warranty and – as both the 30 amp and the 6 amp fuses were intact – I don’t see how it could be anything but a fault in the processor rather than something we have done to it. Otherwise, it’s a real showstopper. I have also spoken to Marc inSydneyin case we need to try to get one from there in a hurry. I’m kicking myself for not making a bigger effort inFalmouthto find an ICOM expert, but that’s life.

Not much else to report – it is as hot as a summer’s day in Sydney and all the Poms are out with lots of bare red skin and the roofs of their convertibles down. We are so used to the message in Oz that it comes as a bit of a shock – as does the number of people who smoke and those who have dogs. More than the sheep in NZ!  Pete has taken Siobhan and about 100 of her friends out toAlumBaynear the Needles (where the coloured sands come from) for a jolly in Berri and we’re all meeting this evening to go to Chequers – see previous sitrep.

1-16. Lymington

Jul 10, 2005 - 0515hrs UTC Frome

0515hrs 20 Jul 2005 UTC Frome
Sorry to be such a lousy correspondent – I’ve been driving around the south of England with Hilary and Katherine visiting relatives and trying to stay in touch with Icom in both Melbourne and UK as well as other people who may be involved in fixing the HF. There are no spare parts is the UK or Europe nor any new transceivers that could be cannibalised and it seems the manufacturers in Japan can’t get parts here in less than a month – apparently they containerise everything. I wonder how they stay in business. So the fallback is that Icom Melbourne is in contact with Icom UK and as of yesterday were indentifying the parts needed and will then send them to Icom UK. I hope they have them in stock, else we have a real problem. Final fallback option is that a friend who is flying over next Monday will bring them if it can be coordinated.

But it’s all cutting it very fine, so fingers firmly crossed. While we can start the Fastnet without it, it would mean no grib weather and no email and no long distance communication. Not really what I would have liked.

Caro – where are you? Glad you’re wet again. Peter D – as far as I know we haven’t heard from you re your prize – do you want a signed shirt? If so, will have to wait till the coming home party! Looking forward to that.
John C, postcard half written – you know what it’s like…

1-16. Lymington

Jul 21, 2005 - 1300hrs UTC │Lymington

1300hrs 21 Jul 2005 UTC Lymington

Things may be looking up – Icom UK have agreed to swap out the PCB in their only demo M802 HF and put it in ours – should be happening as I write and should be back here tomoz and installed.

Slight drop in tension! But won’t go away until it’s in and sending emails again. Then we can Consult properly. The Doctor comes in two forms here – cold or ordinary. A pint of ordinary is a good medicinal consultation.

1-16. Lymington

Jul 23, 2005 – 0700hrs UTC │Lymington

0700hrs 23 Jul 2005 UTC Lymington

The radio is back, reportedly fixed and tested, but too late to fit yesterday, so it will go in on monday. If it works and everything else still works the monday update will come via sailmail – keep your fingers crossed for us and hold your collective breath.

Dave and Carmen Giddings from RANSA turned up yesterday and we had a short Consultation on board with them – noice to see them and to hear other people speaking roight. And we were able to gloat quietly about the cricket.

Into the small to do stuff now – except the radio and the spreader, which we will look at with the local rigger on Monday. Then some spinnaker practice…

We got a small mention in the August Yachting World and there will be a full article in Yachting Monthly in – we think – September, complete with photos. The photographer was on board yesterday taking lots of pics – he’s a sailor too and took stuff that interested him as well so it will be educative to see what the editor goes with. Youse all will see it before we do if all is going well.

1-16. Lymington

Jul 25, 2005 - 1930hrs UTC │Lymington

1930hrs 25 Jul 2005 UTC Lymington

Mildly pear shaped we still are – no radio until tomoz because everyone is too busy with important stuff to install it.

Big invasion of the to-do list today – crossed off lots of trivia and some big ones. We took off all 6 windows- one working one inside and one outside to remove about 60 nuts, washers and bolts, then applying a couple of gallons of silicone plus turps, bog paper, scrapers -the works. And then reversing the process. Very thirsty by the end of that one. If we get lucky, we have fixed the leaks over both our bunks… Bliss…Still have to fix the chainplate leaks (the chainplates are the points where the shrouds are attached to the hull – from the old square rigger days when they actually used chains).

Tomoz will be bigger. The task is to brace the mast so it doesn’t fall down, loosen the shrouds and remove the lower spreaders so that we can remove the spreader collar so the cracks in the collar can be welded.. for the uninitiated, the spreaders hold the shrouds out from the mast and help to keep it upright and the collar holds the spreaders in place. If it breaks, the mast is not stable and it may decide that horizontal is closer to entropy than vertical. The plan, subject to amendment, is to rest a spinnaker pole across the boat on the boom at the gooseneck (next to the mast but behind it), lash it to the mast and then run a spinnaker halyard through each parrot beak (the big clip on the each end of the pole) and onto a genoa car and then winch the halyard tight. This will hold the mast up and allow us to loosen the shrouds, push them out of the groove in the end of the spreaders and drill out the pop rivets in the collar and take it off. We hope. And then we can take the collar to the welder.

Dave G sent us a suspicious bottle from RANSA – looks rather like Bundy. Thanks Dave – and huge thanks to everyone at RANSA who bought raffle tickets – Dave told us all about it – we still have to pay for the radio fix and the rig and all the other stuff and we’re really grateful. We will keep you informed and I’m half way through a letter to Janet for the notice board – have been for a week or so but it will be finished soon.

The RORC office has moved from London to Cowes for the start of Cowes Week next weekend – getting rather too close for comfort.

Quite strange still to be sitting in Berri in a marina with greeen muddy water and the Isle of Wight in the distance. More on this later perhaps. But we can see the IoW so it isn’t raining.

1-16. Lymington

Jul 26, 2005 - 2116hrs UTC │Lymington

2116hrs 26 Jul 2005 UTC Lymington

Today was a big day – we braced the mast, Pete went up and drilled out the pop rivets from the spreader collar, I loosened the shrouds and we took off the collar, took it to the rigger who took it to the welder and it was back in about 2 hours. Gobsmacking!
And back on the mast by the end of the afternoon. Huge worry out of the way and I’ve been funking the thing until we had to do it. Clever bit of bracing – see photos, if they arrived, [ed: they did – kinda small: here and here]. Next ones will be in colour, and we should be able to send pics from inside the start line and the Fastnet rock and all that jazz. Fingers crossed.
Radio at 0915 tomoz. Big finger crossing – breath firmly bated. Watch this space.

1-16. Lymington

Jul 27, 2005 - 1245hrs UTC │Lymington

1245hrs 27 Jul 2005 UTC Lymington

The radio is back in and it seems to work – several moments of near heart failure as various bits of it refused to function but huge relief when it finally came good – haven’t yet had time to test it properly – will send next update from the boat. Icom think the failure was caused by static – we weren’t around lightning when it died so I’m not so sure – would be nice to know.

Next job is to upgrade our stone age VHF set so that the ships on AIS can see us and we can see them – this will be really nice if we can get it going – Simon at digiboat has a new application in SoB that feeds the VHF signal from other ships via a black box direct into the laptop navigation software – www.digiboat.com/ if you want to check it out. Also a new grib overlay which I’m looking forward to setting up if I can get it to talk to everything else.

And there are still some relatively trivial items on the to-do list – like testing our spinnaker socks and evolving a 2 handed technique for using them. Safety inspection on Friday – not sure what to expect but they are generally less severe and more trusting here than in Sydney. There’s nothing on the list that we are likely to fail on but…

And the logistics of getting to the start line via the briefing at 1800 in Cowes the night before – very difficult unless we can get the boat onto a berth in Cowes. At the end of Cowes week there’s a smidgin of a chance and I’m working on it.

[ed: David Whitworth, Alex’s brother, sent this relevant photo captioned “Might I respectfully remind my dear brother that at the fastnet start ,he may have more important things to do than take pictures and send e-mails on his new toy.” ]

1-16. Lymington

Jul 29, 2005 - 1445hrs UTC │Lymington

1445hrs 29 Jul 2005 UTC Lymington

Well – the to-do list is did, done, dogsbodied. Woohoo! And we had the safety inspection today and no problems there. Somewhat less rigorous than the Sydney version – no counting safety pins in the first aid kit, for instance, and pretty straightforward. Berri is probably lighter that she’s ever been when we have raced her – Brian and David Cunneen might have had her stripped out a bit more when they were 2 handing in the ’80s but I doubt it. She echoes like a big cavern. Will be interesting to see whether we can feel and measure the difference in speed. She certainly should go faster than with 6 up in a Hobart.

Now we have to go sailing and try out the kite socks and work out how best to use them – whether, indeed, it might be as fast to use poled out headsails anyway above say 25 knots.

And I can, at last, sit down and try and write cards to people – if you don’t get one, my apologies. Brian and Jen, what’s your address?

If all goes well, this will come to you via sailmail and the sailmail station in Belgium. I sent a test to Steve a couple of days ago and this morning I spoke to Lyngby radio in Denmark on 8 megs so that bit works too. VHF still to be upgraded but not a showstopper. Sense of relief just creeping on – we ain’t through the finish line yet. The sailing instructions arrived yesterday too – some echoes of S2H and the Coroners recommendations but no radio skeds – there’s a schedule for watchkeeping on VHF. Lucky us get 0100 to 0300 and we have to report in a couple of places, such as rounding the Fastnet, if we can talk to anyone – mobile phone is ok and almost no-one has HF radio.

 

We have a berth in Cowes on Saturday 7th so we can get to the briefing at 1800 that day. Not easy for those not actually in Cowes.

 

I’ll do a couple more of these before we set off and I’ll try to send photos on the WAP toy from inside the race. If we’re not too busy. They’ll be teeny tiny ones tho.

1-16. Lymington

Jul 31, 2005 – 0655hrs UTC │Lymington

0655hrs 31 Jul 2005 UTC Lymington

6 days to the briefing and then, in almost exactly a week from now, we will be leaving our mooring in Cowes to go to the start gate with trisail and storm jib set and sail number in the starboard lifelines.  Our start is at 1100 bst, so 2000 Sydney time on august 7.

The Solent this morning is windless and foggy – the breeze should kick in later. I did my rounds of the salterns again this morning, starting at 0510 – already light, low tide, water like silver plate. Yarmouth ferry, all lit up, easing down the river. Rabbits – thousands of them, curlews, lapwing, Canada geese, herons, egrets, oyster catchers, a couple of hawks hovering over the long grass near Keyhaven. And cows on the firm parts of the old salterns inside the sea wall.

We are getting ourselves medically checked tomorrow and Pete has a dental appointment – VHF gets upgraded too and that should be it – fingers in the usual firmly crossed state. Some shopping to do and the last of our non Fastnet gear to come off and into the car.

Looking at the big picture, we actually turn for home at the Fastnet Rock, our furthest point from Oz  – quite fitting really. A stop in Plymouth after we finish, then back to Falmouth where we reload all the gear, do a monster shopping exercise and set off for Sydney.

1-16. Lymington

Jul 31, 2005 – 1247hrs UTC │Lymington

1247hrs 31 Jul 2005 UTC Lymington

Sock practice. In the very best Chinese sense, an interesting morning. I think we have learned that sox are a good idea that can go wrong very easily and – if it does – it has the potential to stop the show for some time while sorting out and even repairs are arranged. Too long to describe but basically, just too many bits of string for two people and the technique must be close to faultless or the whole lot can wrap around the forestay… and so on.

We discovered that we can gybe the assymetric spinnaker by letting it fly forward of the forestay like the 18 footers do in sydney – tricky and needs careful timing and sometimes a bit of unwrapping but not that difficult. So I think we’ll go without sox, with lots of wool for the hoists and a standard drop between the mainsail and the boom. We will = probably – not use a kite very often and it isn’t worth the hassle to complicate it.

And – shame – we got a kite sheet wrapped around the prop – we were lucky to get it off, but it destroyed the sheet. Pete went over the side in his knicks to unravel it as the Cowes racing fleet of 1000 boats bore down on us. The water is 17.5 degrees, for those who care. Miore Chinese interest!. Just too many things to keep under control, particularly when we also have to steer the boat.

1-16. Lymington

Aug 04, 2005 - 1000hrs UTC │Lymington

1000hrs 04 Aug 2005 UTC Lymington

Briefing the day after tomorrow. Very close – we leave for Cowes on Saturday morning and the briefing is at 1800.

So another phase of this saga seems to be coming to an end. We will see just how much we have got right or wrong after 1100 local on Sunday. Lots of advice about how to fumble our way around – short tacking inshore, inside or outside at Portland, go via Alderney (which is how Nicorette won a few years ago, but we dont have the speed…), but my favourite 50/50 fallback is the straight line between the Needles and Start Point with a tack in on the flood and out on the ebb. We’ll see when we get to the Needles.

Had huge problems getting the laptop to talk to the new AIS software and hardware gizmo but, thanks to David Norbury who, like all the nerds I’ve ever met, loves a snarly problem and who very generously volunteered to drive down from the very nice hotel he runs (The Woodlands Lodge Hotel) and spend the afternoon sorting out the mess and getting the thing running – thanks David – we now have all the ships automatically plotted on the laptop, with 9 digit MMSI (unique identifier) numbers, speed and direction, closest point of approach and lots of other goodies. There’s a simple work-around for the problem too – see the website below. And the VHF DSC upgrade allows us to make a digital selective call to a specific ship via its MMSI. Berri’s MMSI, for anyone who may be interested, is 503039300. And I gave you the wrong link for DigiBoat and SoB software (A freebie and very clever) in an earlier update – sorry everyone – the correct one is www.digiboat.com.au. Worth a look and you dont need expensive gear to get AIS working – just a laptop and a $200 ‘engine’ that collects the signals and converts them for the laptop. Brian and Jen – thanks for email and have a look – it’s brilliant. The DSC VHF is a nice add on and not super expensive. And I think they will soon be essential around Australia too.

We are holding our breath for the Shuttle crew – amazing how knowing Leroy makes it all very personal – and we still hope to talk to John Phillips the ISS when we set off again for Oz. Onya everyone and all the very best. We’ll be at sea on monday when the Shuttle is due to return but the BBC will be on.

Tomorrow, we are going to the 60th birthday party of a very special friend – I nearly said ‘old friend’ but I can’t get away with that any more – and then an early night, maybe an early and final run around the Salterns on Saturday morning and we’re off. Just beginning to get my running legs back – but not yet my runners feet…

Probably back to sailmail from here – please send all emails via the website. Ta.

[ed: Some little piccies here]

 

1-16. Lymington

Aug 05, 2005 – 1620hrs UTC │Lymington

Here we go – off to Cowes tomorrow morning, briefing in the evening and we’re away. Looks like it will be a soft one, with met people disagreeing about wind direction and timing. That will come together before the start.

Party tonight.

Conor from Cork – ex S2H Berri Crewmember from about 2000, has advised us to change our medical practitioner. He thinks we need a second opinion from the good Dr Murphy, so we’ll be Consulting with him for the Irish leg of this cruise. Report to follow.

Berri is super light – she should go well. Full fuel, but only 30 ltrs of water, food for 5 days, only essential tools, sails etc. And both anchors ready for instant use…

We will probably use the electric autopilot when we are not hand steering, but Kevvo is ready to go too. We are more likely to need to follow a course on this one, I think.

Not sure how I will cope with updates – we’re going to be very busy and increasingly knackered as the days go by. Dr Murphy will, no doubt come to the rescue.

Thanks to everyone who has sent us good wishes, messages and various bottled potions. Much appreciated and I’m sorry that I just can’t reply to everyone.  Special thanks to everyone who has bought shirts and raffle tickets. I haven’t seen the numbers yet, but it should cover at least the radio upgrade and the rig repairs.

Yachting Monthly and Yachting World are both doing articles on us, due out about Sept 8th and the RYA is giving us a plug in their magazine too. We won’t see any of it till we get back to Sydney.

So – all the best, all y’all and we’ll try to keep the updates coming, along with toy pictures [ed: like this and this] from inside the race while we are in mobile range..

 

1-17. Fastnet Race 2005 (with qualifier)

Aug 06, 2005 - 2000hrs UTC │Cowes

2000hrs 06 Aug 2005 UTC Cowes

It’s going to be a very soft one – we’ll be lucky to get in in less than a week is my prediction based on the briefing weather. We’re berthed at the UK Sailing Academy – huge operation with BIG boats – we’re alongside an ex Global Challenge 65 ton steel boat and a couple of sightly smaller ones. We will leave the berth tomorrow morning at about 0800 for the 1100 start (BST) – the usual trisail and storm jib with an identity gate to find and go through. The press are after us but have not yet caught up – I have handed over the satphone number – who knows, we might have such a slow trip we will need someone to talk to…

The Solent will be wall to wall boats for the start – it’s vastly more crowded here than in Sydney and a real madhouse today, the day after Cowes week finished.

Back to the website from here please if you want to contact us.

I’m using the UKSA internet caf to do this and I hope I can get in tomoz to print some wx charts.

An early night and off we go….

Briefing

1-17. Fastnet Race 2005 (with qualifier)

Aug 07, 2005 - 1351hrs UTC

1351hrs 07 Aug 2005 UTC 50’37”N 001’38”E

This is what we came here to do – wooohooo!

Conservative start -100 metres from the line, picked the right (north) end slowest class first off so had the whole fleet behind us for most of the way to Hurst except for a few that got away even further north. Big hole at Hurst near Shingles – big boats and us going round in circles – now out of it, in SE breeze about 15 kts. Looks as if we will take the outside line from here – Think there may be more pressure out here. Will tack to lay Portland and hope there’s enough wind to take us over the tide. That’s the tricky bit. We’re still way ahead of a lot of boats and the insiders near Anvil Pt don’t seem to be doing as well. Fingers crossed.

[ed: and a short mention on the Fastnet site here]

1-17. Fastnet Race 2005 (with qualifier)

Aug 07, 2005 - 1619hrs UTC

1619hrs 07 Aug 2005 UTC 50’24”N 001’56”E

Forgot to tell you – was a spinnaker start. Now SSW 18 and Berri is just flying -super light, no stern wave at 6-7+ knots – lee bowing what’s left of the tide so helping us along and still up with lots of bigger boats. May have to tack in later but we hope the wind will free us a bit as the sea breeze dies. Restorative consultation with Dr Murphy once we cleared the Needlesnoice – Conor has promised to come and find us near the Fastnet – and watch change at 1700 so G&T to fortify us for the night.

David N & Simon – if you’re out there, the AIS gadget is working – seeing lots of ships.

It’s good to be back in business. [ed: Pictures from the mobile phone on board here]

1-17. Fastnet Race 2005 (with qualifier)

Aug 08, 2005 – 0500hrs UTC

0500hrs 08 Aug 2005 UTC 50’02”N 003’17”E

Early morning after a clear starry night – right in the middle of the Channel along the northern edge of the traffic separation scheme. Long procession of ships passing us, with Portland light looming to the north early, and Cherbourg and Alderney to the south. We saw the Channel light vessel and we can now see Start Point to the NW. Took a big punt coming out this far and won’t know if it paid off for a bit yet – perhaps when we close Lands End and see who else is around. Certainly seems to have worked, as we held the breeze for all but an hour during the night. Depends what the rest of the fleet got close inshore.

Time for a bacon sando and a serious consultation to fortify me for the day.

An hour or so later – we’re still going well, past Start Point with about 10 other boats in sight around the forward and starboard horizon. Anything we we can see, I think, we must be ahead of on handicap, but we’re still very much in Act 1 of this little Soapie. Assy flying and about a knot of adverse tide, which will change in a couple of hours.

1-17. Fastnet Race 2005 (with qualifier)

Aug 08, 2005 - 1446hrs UTC

1446hrs 08 Aug 2005 UTC 50’07”N 004’29”E

The wheels have gone a bit squeaky – we’re trickling along with the assymetric kite set at about 30 degrees to an apparent wind of about  5 knots, giving us about 3. Lovely little sail. We can see 14 other boats around us including one of the 80ft Ocean Challenge boats (64 tons of steel…kinda slow in these conditions)so we must be going more or less ok. A bit short of sleep – we’ve both had interrupted sleeps but Dr Murphy has been at hand to assist. We’re looking forward to a surgery visit from Dr Gordon shortly.

Not looking good for getting round the Lizard tonight – tide due to change against us in an hour or so and we’ll be doing well to stand still unless the wind fills in a bit.

Hope the photos are arriving – not much but better than nothing.

1-17. Fastnet Race 2005 (with qualifier)

Aug 09, 2005 - UTC 0534hrs

verbal from hisself

Off the Lizard – rounded at midnight – Crossing Mount Bay, Next target, the Runnel Stone which is south of Lands End – a dirty big rock!

25-30 boats around horizon.

Verbals as emailing stuffs up autopilot – but nice to talk to the machine.

1-17. Fastnet Race 2005 (with qualifier)

Aug 09, 2005 - 0534hrs UTC

0534hrs 09 Aug 2005 UTC

verbal update

Rounded Lands End, Surrounded by Class 1 – big boats, must be doing OK.

Land’s End

Now into the Irish Sea, with 10 boats visible, 3 off stern.

6knots – flying! 160 miles to the Rock, going swimmingly.

Difficult bit done, so now across the Irish Sea, around the rock, then the Scillies and into Portsmouth.

The Traffic Separation ship for the Channel is to port. We are well pleased.

The reporting system for this race is not exactly high tech – each position report is by mobile phone to a mobile phone answering service…..

[ed: as Alex called in this report I had just clicked through a link to an article in Runners World about Leroy Chiao, Alex and Pete’s astronaut mate – click here to read it. Talk about coincidences]

1-17. Fastnet Race 2005 (with qualifier)

Aug 09, 2005 - 0845hrs UTC

0845hrs 09 Aug 2005 UTC 50’13”N 006’19”W

25 miles out into the Celtic sea and still with some much bigger boats. Either they’ve got it very wrong or we got lucky somewhere – we would not normally expect to see anyone at this stage in aHobartrace and we are the second slowest boat in the fleet.

Fluky sailing with dropping NE breeze, about 8-10 kts and we have the assy up, getting 5+ knots with apparents around 9-10,pointing at the Fastnet about 140 miles away. Just has to be good for the overall result.

A tiny finch-like bird – yellowish green chest, olive/brown/grey feathers, short fine pointy beak has just landed on the backstay – will send photo when we get back in range.

Tom & Vicky, Peter, Hugh, thanks for wise advice – seems to be working out ok so far. Just hope this zephyr holds out for the next three days or so. We leave the Fastnet to port from here, then the Pantaenius Buoy about 7 miles SW of the rock and the Scillies to port and Plymouth breakwater.

A proper breakfast Berri style has been consumed and we’re on the case…We have 2 cans of Dr Murphy’s medicinal potion per day for six days, so we must finish by Saturday.

[ed: some relevant links: here and here]… a classic quote from the Fastnet website:

Alcohol seems to lie at the heart of Berrimilla’s success in this race so far. This doublehanded 33-footer, sailed by Australian friends Alex Whitworth and Peter Crozier, is beating boats far larger. In the absence of other crewmembers, Whitworth admits to “consulting with Dr Murphy in the day and Dr Gordon in the evening”, referring to his two morale-boosting tipples. There isn’t much rest for these two sailors, as the three hours on/ three hours off arrangement isn’t always feasible when the sailing gets difficult. “We’re trying to run with a very flat spinnaker at the moment, which is taking all of our concentration. But we just passed one of the Global Challenge boats [more than twice Berrimilla’s length], so we’re going well.”

1-17. Fastnet Race 2005 (with qualifier)

Aug 09, 2005 - 1845hrs UTC

 1845hrs 09 Aug 2005 UTC 50’30”N 007’07”W

Here we are in unknown territory – we are some way past the point where I got to last time in 1961 in Leopard – scary stuff! Last time, we were in a force 9/10 storm just north of Lands End and ended up running down with it, with the genoa halyard jammed, the sail still up and every warp we had on the boat streaming behind us to slow us down. We found ourselves south west of the Scillies and ran out of time and retired, going back to theHelfordRiver. Quite a contrast – we’ve spent a lot of today in glassy calm with 2-3 knots of wind trying to keep the assy filled and drawing – we never stopped, but there was no speed registered on the log for a couple of hours – hand steering and fierce concentration.

Now in a 10 knot NEasterly and doing about 6 knots up the rhumb line. Woohoo! If it holds, we’ll be at the Rock tomorrow evening. It won’t, of course. We have no idea how we are doing – we’ve been close to lots of bigger boats but they all seem to be somewhat recreational so not really a good guide. No skeds, like in a Hobart, so we don’t know where the real competition is. We can see two other boats – both look larger than us but hard to tell.

From Joe S.

Hope all is going well with you on the voyage to the Rock.
I showed you the letter I sent to the Rolex mob amd asked them when they were aboard “”Hot Ice”” (in front of you at Lymington Yacht Haven) and they told me that it had been passed to whoever does these things to get a bit of coverage for the guys who arn’t always at the front and big. In fact, when we saw you off Hurst, you appeared to be doing bloody well even compared with the Maxis.
You kick arse and have a good trip!! Us plastic stink pots admire you greatly!
All the best, when we come to Sydney, we will give you a shout.

Thanks, Joe Sq, Peter C. and David – got your messages. Joe, we were going really well till your 2 plastic stinkpots went past making a true southern ocean swell just for us – all those heavyweights on board, I suppose. Took us till outside the Needles to recover… Thanks for making the point with the sponsors tho.

Both bearing up well – we’ve both missed out on sleep but when we do sleep, it’s pretty solid. 3 hours on, 3 off works well – we’re effectively sailing singlehanded for our watches and can’t afford to goof off. Get a bit bleary eyed at times. We can pull in the BBC on long wave out here, which helps to pass the time.

1-17. Fastnet Race 2005 (with qualifier)

Aug 10, 2005 - 0620hrs UTC

0620hrs 10 Aug 2005 UTC 50’45”N 008’10”W

Parked, we were, for a couple of hours in Berri’s first ever Irish parking lot. Except we never stopped moving, even though the log said we had. Just about half way across theCelticSeaand half way thro the race distance. Misty dawn, plate glass sea with small waves just enough to spill any wind we’d so carefully conserved in the sails. Bits of seaweed imperceptibly moving past with the tiny bubbles of passage and the little fan of ripples that doesn’t really qualify as a bow wave.

The breeze has just filled in from the NW – a feather brush against the cheek, then a ripple or two on the surface and – bliss – .01 knots on the log – .02, .03… We’ve tacked to the west – slightly better that going north and we’re making 5 knots on 290M WOOOHOOO. 4 other boats ahead to leeward, 2 astern, small ship on the northern horizon. Very occasionally, a seabird.

I can hear all the little Irish barnacles that grabbed us when we were parked laughing themselves silly as they clatter around this very sexy Oz bottom we’ve brought along for their greater edification and pleasure. I wonder if they are immune to Oz antifouling. Or processed medicinal potions.

Will be a special – almost Cape Horn- moment when we first sight the Fastnet. I’ve had it out there since 1961 and I’ve always hoped to be back to go and find it before SOTMC. (one for Malcom or Kris or Hugh). Teeny photos if we are in mobile range, but we still have 64 miles to go, so not till this evening and then only if we get lucky.

 

Leftovers from being too busy over the last few days – there was thistledown blowing across the water off Falmouth a couple of days ago – gentle white globes of fluff that sometimes settled in the water – lots and lots of it – lovely. The Lizard and Lands End – tide with us, luckily – ships everywhere, boats all around us, just able to keep the wind to get out into the Celtic sea. Floated past our friends on their Cornish cliff at 2 in the morning – I’m sure I saw a candle in the window behind Tater Du?

 

Great unbating of breath when the Shuttle landed.

1-17. Fastnet Race 2005 (with qualifier)

Aug 10, 2005 – 1000hrs UTC

1000hrs 10 Aug 2005 UTC 50’50”N 008’26”W

Becalmed good and proper. Kite just hanging limp – rolling with the swell. We’re too far out for any land effect on the breeze altho we’re getting some breeze from the Irish radio stations.

Do dolphins live in pods or schools? whatever, there’s been a crown of them around us cavorting and snorting – quite big ones and about 40 or 50.

Time to try the oldHobartcheater – very light tall thin cut down headsail that sometimes works to catch the wind from the boats roll.

1-17. Fastnet Race 2005 (with qualifier)

Aug 10, 2005 – 1615hrs UTC

1615hrs 10 Aug 2005 UTC 51’03”N 008’50”W

Difficult day but we’re progressing slowly. Irelandvisible and 35 miles to the Rock, but upwind. Maximus has finished, so the clock has been ticking since about 0830 this morning – not much chance of getting close to them on handicap but I think we’re still very much competitive in our class – maybe not in the 2 handed division tho – we’re flying blind – nobody knows where the opposition is. Still several bigger boats around us and we’re the second slowest rated boat in the race so something must be working. No idea where the slowest one is – I think I perfer the Hobartsystem but it wouldn’t work here because no-one has HF radio. We’re reporting in by satphone to a mobile phone message service and the press office are talking to us the same way. Don’t know where the articles are, but maybe on the www.yachtingmonthly.com site.

Long procession of kites returning from the Rock – we’re about 20 hours behind the ones we can see now.

Irish accents on all the radio stations – noice – and Berri is now further north than she’s ever been. Pete is hand steering and we’re doing it easy for the mo -as long as this fickle Murphy’s wind holds. We hope that Conor fromCorkwill be out near the Rock to say G’day in Gaelic but it will be around midnight if we get lucky, so maybe not. And probably no photos either.

.sad.

1-17. Fastnet Race 2005 (with qualifier)

Aug 10, 2005 – 2045hrs UTC

2045hrs 10 Aug 2005 UTC 51’21”N 009’04”W

The Examiner is back. We are now headbutting a 25 knot NW wind with a short steep sea that makes life very uncomfortable. No 3 and one reef. The Fastnet is directly upwind at 19 miles – cant see it yet, tho its range is 27 miles. Have to catch its one flash every 15 secs when we are on top of a wave. Irish coast visible 9 miles ahead, traffic separation zone between us and the Rock. Looks like at least five hours if the wind holds as is – seems to be moderating a bit. All the other fast 2 handers will be hooning off downwind now – poo. Rumour has it we were 12th overall IRC some time yesterday, but we’ve probably fallen from grace since then.

1-17. Fastnet Race 2005 (with qualifier)

Aug 11, 2005 - 0236hrs UTC

0236hrs 11 Aug 2005 UTC 51’23”N 009’36”W

An update from the web team – thanks Mal – Berri rounded Fastnet at 2:36am and is in 113th place out of the 256 still sailing. 

This picture from Berri seems to show the Fastnet light (we think) as Berri rounded it…. We think…

1-17. Fastnet Race 2005 (with qualifier)

Aug 11, 2005 – 0830hrs UTC

0830hrs 11 Aug 2005 UTC 51’01”N 009’06”W

We’ve turned for home – the numbers are decreasing in the header… We rounded the Fastnet at 0335 BST this morning – awesome experience – very dark night, lots of boats of all descriptions around and everything dominated by this huge light. It livee on a 30 metre tower on top of the rock and it flashes every 5 seconds. Not just any old flash – this one has attitude – it means to grab your attention. Range is 27 miles and it has (I think from memory), 4 lenses which therefore revolve once every 20 seconds. Underneath it, it feels like being under a massive spoked wheel with almost solid white spokes spearing off towards the horizon and rotating. Love to have seen it in daylight. The piccy is of one flash and I tried to get a bit of video but we were rather busy. More pics of other stuff, but we’re way out of range now.

There are still 18 boats behind us and we are hooning downwind averaging 6+ with the big purple and gold kite. There’s a boat called Alert, also 2 handed, on our starboard side and at least 4 others in sight. We’ve just been interrogated by the Irish Navy – very politely – and they wished us Godspeed. And, sadly, we were too late for Conor, who was waiting for us at the rock yesterday afternoon. Sorry mate – too many Irish parking lots out here.

Looks like we’ll miss the prizegiving on Friday – tomorrow but they promised us all another one on Saturday. Thanks for all your messages and good wishes. We’ll give it a shake.

1-17. Fastnet Race 2005 (with qualifier)

Aug 11, 2005 - 1505hrs UTC

1505hrs 11 Aug 2005 UTC 50’31”N 008’12”W

All y’all may get a message from Andy Rice saying that we could win this thing on handicap if we finish by 0220 on Saturday. I think he really means we could beat the line honours winner, Maximus. There are a lot of other boats still out on the course who could do the same and also beat us, so don’t get too excited.

Having said which, we will be Consulting frequently to ensure that we don’t miss any opportunity to go faster. At least until we run out of the good Dr Murphy’s medicament. No bloody sleep for the wicked – again. We have to average just over 5 knots to do it, I think. A gobsmackingly small possibility, given the bits we still have to sail through, but just on the cards.

So watch this space.

[ed: press release via Andy Rice (thanks):

Alex and Peter are storming along in the Fastnet. It has turned into a small-boat race. Here is an extract from the press release for Berrimilla followers:

Weather expert Mike Broughton’s analysis of the weather suggests the westerly breezes should hold steady for the next 48 hours. The wind could vary in strength from 10 to 15 knots over the next day, then start building during late Friday night.

Broughton’s forecast will be sweet music to the slowest boats in the fleet, still running downwind from the Fastnet Rock. Alex Whitworth and Peter Crozier were enjoying the best sailing conditions of the race this afternoon, their Brolga 33 Berrimilla making a very respectable 7 knots’ boatspeed in a 16-18 knot north-westerly. “We’re going like the clappers, this is by far the best breeze we’ve seen. We’ve been having a ball,” he said.

Whitworth and Crozier are not professional racers, but two friends on a global adventure. Having sailed their boat up from Sydney, they plan to sail back via the Cape of Good Hope to compete in the Rolex Sydney Hobart Race this Christmas. Winning the Rolex Fastnet Race had never even entered their minds, and on hearing that they were in the running, Whitworth still refused to believe his ears. On current progress Berrimilla would cover the remaining 180 miles to Plymouth by 1730 Friday evening, and yet such is her handicap rating that she could still beat ICAP Maximus’s time if she arrived by 0220 hours Saturday morning. “I rate our chances of doing that no better than 2 per cent,” said Whitworth. “The boat you should be watching is Aye! We saw her earlier and she is sailing very well.”

1-17. Fastnet Race 2005 (with qualifier)

Aug 12, 2005 – 0700hrs UTC

0700hrs 12 Aug 2005 UTC 49’53”N 005’53”W

Bishop Rk @ 0400, eta Lizard around 1200 local, earliest possible finish around 2100 if we get really lucky. If you have Andy Rice’s email address, please forward to him. Ta.

1-17. Fastnet Race 2005 (with qualifier)

Aug 12, 2005 – 1213hrs UTC

1213hrs 12 Aug 2005 UTC 50’00”N 004’59”W

Lizard astern, Plymouth and the finish in about 7 hours. Sadly, not in the money, but not a bad result – will be in touch again later. Knackered and smelly and still lots of work to do. G&T to follow as restorative but not deodorant

1-17. Fastnet Race 2005 (with qualifier)

Aug 12, 2005 – 1933hrs UTC

1933hrs 12 Aug 2005 UTC Plymouth

We finished at 193355 and cracked second in the 2 handed division – half an hour behind Pascal Loisin – google him. Will try to do proper update on shorebased pc tomoz.

1-17. Fastnet Race 2005 (with qualifier)

Aug 13, 2005 - 0800hrs UTC │Plymouth

0800hrs 13 Aug 2005 UTC Plymouth

The morning after. Pete and I went to bed really early last night – 2 consultations, a big plate of lasagne at the yacht club and a visit to a huge catamaran that a friend was on and that was it.

Checked the results this morning and it’s true – we really did crack second in the 2 hander and 11th overall. Blimey! Andif we’d had the tide for the last leg into Plymouth, we’d probably have won the 2 hander. Having said all of which, it was very much a small boat race. All the top few boats arrived at the Fastnet at exactly the right time to catch the sleigh ride home. We flew the big purple kite all the way from the Pantaenius turning mark 7 miles SW of the Rock to Mevagissey, past the Lizard. 18 – 20 knots on the quarter and clocking sustained periods of 8 knots plus. WOOOOOOOOHOOOOOOOOO! Wearing Malcolm’s daggy hat. A slightly hairy bit approaching Bishop Rock where we had to sail dead downwind in biggish following sea to get around but no dramas.

We put up the assy almost immediately after dropping the biggie and ploughed past the Eddystone right on the edge to within a mile of the finish at the Breakwater. That’s probably what got us into second place – we were doing 7.5 – 8 knots with the lee gunwale awash and lots of overpower against a 1.5 knot tide for 50 miles. Grand – Berri was wonderful.

I’ve just heard Pete open our very last can of Smoothie – cheers.

Rations minimised for the race – got it just about right – ran out of tsnk water in the marina! – half an hour too late. Cant win em all.

And now the press and the TV mob are looking for us. Prizegiving around mid-day.

 

Lot’s of articles on http://www.regattanews.com

Photos here

[ed: 11th overall, 8th in class, 2nd two handed, details here, the map is here , and Fastnet Piccies are here including the awards ceremony and a damn big trophy!]:

1-18. Betwixt Madeira and Morocco

Aug 14, 2005 - 1045hrs UTC

1045hrs 14 Aug 2005 UTC 50’14”N 004’26”W

We left Plymouth a couple of hours ago – a bit sad in lots of ways – I was thinking about my Dad as we passed the breakwater and wondering how many times he’d done the same thing, in war and peace – and we passed Cawsand and the house we lived in for a few months when he was stationed in Devonport and I was about 10 – I could see the sea wall and the ruins of old fortifications we used to play in. And all those nice RORC and Rolex people who looked after us so well. Hope we will see most of them again inSydney real soon now.

The last boat, Pickle, finished around midnight last night – 8 NHS medical people hired the boat from one of the Very Big outfits that hire boats having checked it out and done their qualifier in it only to find the spinnaker in two pieces when they hoisted it after the start. Not a happy event. I’d sue the Very Big outfit for my money back.

Dont know whether Bekens of Cowes – have a website [ed: they do http://www.beken.co.uk/ but no Berri results in the search just yet] but we asked them to take photos of us and they did in theSolent after the start. They will send Proofs to Jeanne so there will eventually be real pics for the website, if copyright allows.

1-18. Betwixt Madeira and Morocco

Aug 14, 2005 – 1540hrs UTC

1540hrs 14 Aug 2005 UTC Falmouth

The original back of an envelope planning inSydneysuggested that we should be back inFalmouthon Aug 14. So here we are – I’m still astonished that we’re getting it done – and the Fastnet result was a huge bonus – never in the calculations. We must try to get out of here by the 21st at the latest…

The to do list this time is much shorter – mostly sorting  what we need to freight back, packing it and getting it on a ship, then packing the boat with the rest, doing the food shopping, arranging the medicine cabinet for serial Consultation and departing.

May try to fit in one trip toLondonso Pete can visit RORC – if we seem to be on top of the list.

1-18. Betwixt Madeira and Morocco

Aug 17, 2005 - 1400hrs UTC

1400hrs 17 Aug 2005 UTC Falmouth

In haste – doing humungous shopping and just called into the dreaded caff to do update.

It’s BIG thank you time  – we’d never have got this far without vastly out of the ordinary help from lots of people – our families, Stephen, Malcolm, Isabella and Graham, Fenwick and his team, Jeremy, John B, Peter Bruce, Tom and Vicky Jackson, the Patagonian Cruisenetters, Diana at Petitbateau, The cookie crumbler in Stanley, John M-B, Mike H, all the RORC team, Hugh M and many many more. Thanks everyone and we’ll try to keep up this manic communication.

I bet you all thought the odd little blip on the website was a photo of the Fastnet light – but it’s really the streetlight next to our bus shelter

If all goes well, we’re out of here on Friday. Big effort to load the boat – we’re parked alongside the public jetty next to The Chain Locker pub {photo to follow if I remember) and we have to get from tthe car park through the passage under the pub, down a short street, down a big ramp onto the pontoon and then hike out about 200 metres to the boat – carrying shopping bags, slabs and slabs of Medicinal Potion, and all the bulky stuff we took off the boat to go racing. A grind.

Hoping to have a contemplative Consultation with all our local mates on Friday at the Greenbank before we leave. Haven’t even looked at the weather yet. Then about 120 days to Sydney.

Forgot to tell you – I had a text message from a friend, Andy Bird (no relation as far as we know) who was 2 handing a J105 a few miles ahead of us in the Celtic sea and who had a visit from what must  have been the same little bird, hitching a ride to Ireland – or New York – who knows. There’s an indistinct photo on the website and we have a much better print.

Ed: the latest set of tiny pictures

Mal’s new boat here:

and a great one with the Trophy here:

The lady presenting the trophy is Janet Grosvenor, Director of Sailing at RORC

1-18. Betwixt Madeira and Morocco

Aug 18, 2005 – 0900hrs UTC Falmouth

0900hrs 18 Aug 2005 UTC Falmouth

This might be the final update from the caff. Berri is about half loaded, shopping in 80% done, still have washing, sorting the freight details, fixing VAT refunds (absolute nightmare – Customs have been completely closed down on the south coast and there’s only one person in the whole of the south of england who seems to know what to do – thanks Neil – but They are not going to beat me – we need everything we can squeeze back), reconnecting the Ampair, lots of goodbyes and we should be off sometime late tomorrow DV & WP, with no real attention to WP. Knackered from carrying stuff up long and winding steps, around pubs, up and down ramps…

Malcom, tried to find a Southern Ocean bird book – or anything that might do, but no luck. Also finally decided that going off to Taunton in search of isochrones was likely to be a wasted journey, so we’ll seat of the pants it. Pity – was an interesting idea.

It’s stick my neck out time again – ETA in either Sydney (or Hobart if we decide to round the final Cape) December 11th. Unlikely to be as accurate as the Falklands – UK version, but we’ll see.

1-18. Betwixt Madeira and Morocco

Aug 19, 2005 – 1100hrs UTC Falmouth

1100hrs 19 Aug 2005 UTC Falmouth

Very quick one – we’ve assembeld everything at the boat – big effort – and Pete is packing it it – internet caff has gone belly up – so using a friends pc – plan is to leave at 1000 local tomoz from the harbourmaster’s jetty having had a Consultation with anyone who cares to turn up.

Parcel arrived Laura – thanks – will save for Pete’s 60th.

1-18. Betwixt Madeira and Morocco

Aug 20, 2005 - 0800hrs UTC Falmouth

0800hrs 20 Aug 2005 UTC Falmouth

From Isabella, Alex’s sister:

We arrived in Falmouth this morning to watch departure to find that Pete had gone to buy Tesco’s while Alex twiddled with bits of rope, stowed various things and waited to refuel. By the time Pete returned with the entire supermarket (what do they do with all that Kitchen Towel??) Berri was full of gas, the leaving party was assembling and The Dublin Doctor proffered copious advice. We watched them cast off and motor out of the harbour, and several of us zoomed off to Pendennis Point in our cars to see Berri leave. We created an unpleasantly modern-sounding Rhapsody for Car Horn and Barking Dog as they passed beneath us but the poor old boys are so deaf these days they didn’t even look up. Maybe they prefer the classics. Berri’s sails looked smaller and smaller, the sea larger and larger and all the various emotive cliches can be imagined but will not be written by me here..

Isabella’s pictures here

1-18. Betwixt Madeira and Morocco

Aug 20, 2005 - 0925hrs UTC │Leaving Falmouth

0925hrs 20 Aug 2005 UTC leaving Falmouth Ref 299

Phone call to Mal from Alex:

“Just leaving Falmouth, should be on webcam now”

From his (very brief) description, I’ve picked the most likely candidates from the webcam images: here and here

The times on the webcam images don’t seem to correspond to the actual time – look to be out by about 30 minutes

1-18. Betwixt Madeira and Morocco

Aug 20, 2005 – 1300hrs UTC

1300hrs 20 Aug 2005 UTC 49’47”N 005’24”W Ref 300

And here beginneth Act 5. Sad to leave our friends on the Falmouth fuel wharf – after suitably medicinal farewells – and really nice to see the numbers in the GPS winding down again. We haver to average 120 miles per day to make my ETA – so at 1000 each day, I’ll do a distance travelled to see how we’re going. We’re a bit ahead just for the mo doing 7.8 knots and throwinhg huge quantities of water aside as Berri lumbers through the waves with about 3 tons of extra weight on board.

The Lizard and Tater Du fading into the misty horizon – Synney here we come. More reflective piece may follow when I’m off watch.

1-18. Betwixt Madeira and Morocco

Aug 20, 2005 - 2330hrs UTC

2330hrs 20 Aug 2005 UTC 49’00”N 006’27”W Ref 301

Most of the way through the second of about 440 watches. Daunting prospect. This one has been rather long and slow – lots of ships around and a yacht passed close under our stern – I’m sure she approached without lights because I only saw her when she was very close. Bright clear moon, only the first magnitude stars visible and about 10 kts of breeze – we’re wallowing in the swell and it’s not comfortable – just not enough to keep the sails filled and the boat moving. Sails flogging – not good for them.

I’ve been thinking about the highlights so far – Cape Horn, obviously; our weekend with Leroy and Karen and them out back of Tater Du; rounding the Fastnet and finally finishing one are probably the stand-outs. And getting so many nice emails from all y’all. And we’re on the way home – woohooo.

People have asked what the trophy was for – we didn’t rate anything for our actual result – it was for the crew that had sailed the furthest to take part in the race – I think they invented it for us. The lady presenting it is Janet Grosvenor, Director of Sailing at RORC.

There’s an article about us in both next month’s Yachting Monthly and Yachting World – both out around Sept 8 in UK – I’ve seen the YM version and they’ve done us proud. Thanks Hugh.

From Martin, Barbados

Hello Berrimillas,

Thank you for a most wonderful website and stories about your sailing adventures! I had seen you mentioned on BBC News on-line, and then my pal Hugh in Lymington sent me an email re how he had been shanghaiied by YM to write a story about you, as youze were ‘of similar age and also a bit wrong in the head’….

I shall be staying with Hugh for a few days next month, when Southampton boat show is on, and am looking forward to hearing more about the Berrimillas from his perspective – and reading the article as well!

I can just imagine Hugh’s living room piled high with the Berri’s cruising kit – no wonder you flew in the Fastnet! I guess you had to get a Transit van or summat so to get it all down to Falmouth afterwards.

I did the Fastnet on Stormy Weather in ’93 – a F7 on the nose going out to the rock, and a F8 on the beam coming back – we were underwater most of the way…..

And you are now on passage and bound for lower latitudes and tradewinds fairly soon….. if you are bored one day and fancy a radio sked with a difference, tune in to the Transatlantic Maritime Mobile net – it is on the ham frequencies, run by my Mum Trudi (8P6QM) on 21.400 at 1300 UTC every day, with a weather forecast (from Radio France) for the North Atlantic at 1330. But Hugh has probably told you about her already – he chatted to her for years before he finally set off across the Atlantic on Tacit, on his (slightly more leisurely!) world cruise.

I had better not make this too long – your webmaster is probably already cursing me, and deleting stuff furiously with his red cyber pen…….

So, fair winds, and reasonably calm seas, with sunny days and happy times ahead on your voyage home – and good luck from the Windies in the Sydney – Hobart!

Hi Martyn – listened for your Mum on 21400 but no joy  my radio has 21402 as a set frequency, so will try bothas we get further south.

1-18. Betwixt Madeira and Morocco

Aug 21, 2005 – 0515hrs UTC

0515hrs 21 Aug 2005 UTC 48’49”N 006’47”W Ref 302

The first of many dawns, from cherry pink to fiery gold to silver grey and then the clouds to the west change from brooding shadows to snowy peaks that turn pink as the rising sun catches them… But anyone who sees romance in this hasn’t done it too often – experienced the gravel under the eyelids, the damp and condensation, the fickle wind – blah blah

We are 70 miles WNW of Ushant (L’Ile de Ouessant for the Bretons) in a slow rolling swell that would be glassy if it had abated a bit – no wind – not just a faint breeze, no wind. We are burning some precious diesel just to keep the average going and the boat reasonably comfortable but only getting 2.6 over the ground for an indicated 4.2 thro the water on the log. GPS distance 107 miles so still 13 to go before 0900 (start time yesterday was 1010 local). We’re starting to wind in our bit of string from the way up – Orion rose in the east a few hours ago and the Azores are out there somewhere in front.

A fishing vessel away on our starboard quarter, has been there for hours, occasionally shines a very bright light.

The grib  says more of this for the rest of the day then it will fill in again from the N or NW for a couple of days. This agrees with the EGC forecast from SatComC.

And, 70 miles out to sea, with the gradient (non)wind from the NW, we were visited by an insect – about 2 cm long – that flew around the stern in the silver light – what language would it speak? Breton? Gaelic? Icelandic? Inuit? Canadian?

Will wake Pete in half an hour and have a Berri breakfast – for the uninitiated, a Consultation while holding a bacon sando laced with a gallon or so of Tabasco. Then I’ve got to sort through the mess and find my bags of clothes and find beanies and neckies – it’s cold out there, but getting warmer.

0532 Just stuck my head up to look for ships – the sun has just risen and the clouds to the west are coppery coloured and reflecting on the water – odd – never seen that before. How sweet to be a cloud, floating in the blue…Tiddley pom. But I havent got Pooh’s balloon.

My life in review – I think this has been my 9th Channel crossing by boat of some sort.

1-18. Betwixt Madeira and Morocco

Aug 21, 2005 – 1020hrs UTC

1020hrs 21 Aug 2005 UTC 48’28”N 007’00”W Ref 303

First day’s progress: GPS log 122 nm, boat’s log (through the water) 129 nm so we might have had a net adverse tide – the boat’s log probably over reads too, so not necessarily accurate. Net result +2 for the day qnd overall.

Since which, we have probably lost it all and some more.

Small change to my predicted ETA – I said Dec 11 in either Sydney or Hobart – it would have made more sense to have said either Gabo Island or the Iron Pot in Hobart. Either of these would complete a circumnavigation and Sydney would be about 4 or 7 days later respectively. So that’s what we’ll stick with. Peter D, you may amend your prediction accordingly, as may anyone else so rash as to have had a go this far out.

The insect returned, briefly. It looks like a rather delicate wasp.

1-18. Betwixt Madeira and Morocco

Aug 21, 2005 - 1800hrs UTC

1800hrs 21 Aug 2005 UTC 47’59”N 007’15”W Ref 304

Just been overtaken by a big grey bulk carrier called Te Ho – couldn’t reads the port of registration but looked like Taipei – if that’s a port. No one visible anywhere on deck or on the bridge – probably watching reality TV in the backblocks somewhere.

We have been given a set of CD’s of John le Carre reading ‘The Constant Gardener’. Wonderful stuff – I’m glad he decided to be a spook and then an author rather than an actor because we may not have got the books. Gielgud, Burton, Conti, Finney, Fiennes, Sellers, Neddy Seagoon – all in there – and I bet he read in in one take. Having had a go at something similar with my 90 seconds of fame on the Beeb, I know how difficult that is. Bastard! I’m rationing myself to one CD per week – there are six – and will mix them with Kerouac, Potter (just to see what the fuss is all about – so far, not hugely impressed) and lots of others. Keycorp’s cd player – thanks everyone. And this time, I’ve got some Guardian weekly crosswords – forwarded from the Falklands after being sent in error to the West Indies.

Pete has cooked a stew with fresh meat and spuds to weigh down the G&T we’re sharing with my Mum in virtual reality. And we’ve got bladders full of plonk from Oz and Chile to help it down. There’s an old doggerel song from somewhere or other called ‘Life gets Teejus don’t it’ Well it do.

1-18. Betwixt Madeira and Morocco

Aug 22, 2005 - 0920hrs UTC

0920hrs 22 Aug 2005 UTC 46’42”N 007’56”W Ref 305

GPS 242, log 256, 24 hr GPS dist travelled 100, total 242, = +2 DTG about 12000.

The flea has started its journey beck down the elephants rump towards its belly. Slow and steady, patience, persistence perseverance and pigheadedness. If a flea can be said to be pigheaded. And very much one day at a time – very hard indeed to stay calm and cheerful thinking about what’s in front as a big block of days. Just have to concentrate on today and perhaps visualise the feeling as we sail back in through Sydney Heads. 42182 metres in a marathon, ground out one at a time.

About half way across grey drizzly Biscay, just inside the direct line between the separation zones at Ouessant and Finisterre. We’re out beyond the shelf in deep water again – having seen how the bay shelves, it’s not hard to see why it is so dangerous in westerly gales. Some nasty weather due further north in the Channel – (later) we’ve just had a front pass through with a big, expected wind change round to the north so we’re poled out and doing 7.5

Time to plan ahead – invitations for the S2H crew: the shore support team – Stephen? Malcolm? Fenwick? (let me know…), Katherine ditto, and James as first reserve ditto – sorry James, you’ll definitely get a second go if you don’t get on this time.

 

[ed: a later PS]

From Malcom C.

“”Berri is ready for the ocean wide,
We’ve taken leave of kin,
The tide doth ebb, the sails are set,
We sail with a keg of gin.””

He emails her with his flaky prose,
“”There was a yacht,”” wrote he.
“”Hold off. don’t spam me, grey beard loon!””
Eftsoon his link dropped out.

Isabel tuned in on VHF,
She cannot choose but hear;
And thus spake on that ancient man,
The bright-eyed mariner.

The yacht was cheered, the harbour cleared,
Merrily they dropped,
Below the kirk, below the hill,
Below the lighthouse top.

The sun came up upon the left,
Out of the sea came he!
And he shone bright, and on the right
Went down into the sea.

Higher and higher every day,
Till over the mast at noon –
‘It’s consultation time.at last, at last,
It never is too soon””

With sloping mast and dipping prow,
With spinnaker ready to go
The yacht drove fast, the Azores were past,
And southward aye they fled.

End of first part.

From Martin, Barbados

Thank you for the kind words in your latest log entry – I am pleased to see that my note reached you OK! My Mum (Trudi, 8P6QM) saw it this evening and as a result of having appalling radio conditions recently, sent me the following comment :

“”Actually, they won’t be able to hear me on their way south, propagation is too bad, but they might hear Jack (AA3GZ in the USA) of course, and probably Gerard (ON6BG,  in Belgium). But if they want weather info, I could send them some of that by E-mail every day, if necessary. For example the forecast from Radio France International, the position of the ITCZ etc. But maybe they can get all that from somewhere else?””

I guess you must have an abundance of wx info coming your way from a variety of sources, but if you are not receiving any RFI wx or ITCZ (later on!) and would like to receive a daily update, please do advise (via your log would be fine).

Maybe tomorrow Mum will give you a shout on 21.402 and see if you can hear her there. Strictly speaking she is only allowed to talk to licensed amateur radio operators, but she has been known to bend the rules very slightly on one-off occasions……..

We shall look forward to following your progress on your Long Way home. My sister and her family live in Oz (in Mooloolah, Qld) and they will also be tuning in to the Berrinews.  

Best wishes for fair winds, fine sailing, calmish seas and happy consulting!

Thanks Malcom – not bad. And thanks Martin – listened in today but nowt – please tell Trudi we don’t need wx info but would love to talk to her – our callsign is VZN2025. We could perhaps arrange a separate sked – I’ve got quite a good propagation application with sailmail – where is Trudi? Thanks Kevin, will do, thanks Richard, sorry we missed getting to see y’all. Was a little boat year – seems we picked something right! Just a bit late at the Rock to do any serious good.

1-18. Betwixt Madeira and Morocco

Aug 23, 2005 – 0900hrs UTC

0900hrs 23 Aug 2005 UTC 44’50”N 009’52”W Ref 306

DB – the flea is rompin’

GPS 390, log 413 24hr= 148/157 = +30. No time to regard this with any auspicion – far too far to go yet, but could be worse.

Happy birthday Jeanne – we’re having our GMT Happy Birthday Con. There’s still local time to cover later as well.

We’ve just passed 45N – roughly the equivalent latitude to Maatsuyker south of Tasmania, the last of the 5 Capes if we have time to go that way (Hi Josh – we’ll certainly let you know and look out for Quetzalcoatl’s yellow flash). So – we have 5400 miles to go south and about 6000 east – depends a bit on how far south we actually go in the Indian Ocean. Do I need to talk about great circles? The shortest distance between any two points on the earth’s surface follows an arc of a great circle. A great circle is the imaginary line that would follow the edge of any plane that passes through the centre of the earth – so if you were to slice the earth into two halves through the centre, with the slice also taking in the two points (say Cape Town and Maatsuyker – and there’s only one way that it is possible to do this) the shortest distance between them would be the shorter of the two arcs of the ‘slice’. In this case, the line would go way down south past Kerguelen and into the Ice, where we ain’t going to go. The straight line along 45 south is a few hundred miles longer and will add an equivalent time to our journey. It is also likely to be much less windy, so also slower, but – with a bit of luck – much safer and more comfortable.

We will probably stay as close to 40S as we can and duck down at the end to 45, just like for Cape Horn.

1-18. Betwixt Madeira and Morocco

Aug 23, 2005 – 1700hrs UTC

1700hrs 23 Aug 2005 UTC 44’14”N 010’04”W Ref 307

[Ed: there has been a fair bit of bouncing emails back and forth as we have had some major problems with the laptops, versions of programs, USB ports, and sundry other pieces of technology.  All under control now with earlier versions and fingers firmly crossed]

Back in plod mode – about 85 miles NW of Cape Finisterre, long Atlantic swell rolling in from the right, almost on the beam, poled out to port in about 10 knots making about 4. Lots of seabirds all around – we just sailed through a big gaggle of them sitting on the water – they took off haphazardly each firing off a long white squitty squirt – no doubt to lighten the take-off load or readjust the trim.

More on great circles – it follows that the equator is the only line of latitude that is a great circle, but every line of longitude is. The symmetry of the calculation is messed up because the earth is not a perfect sphere (one of the few things I remember with any clarity from school geography is that it is an oblate spheroid, fatter around the equator because of its rotation) so some parts of any great circle arc are flatter than others. There are actually tables to calculate the difference in distance.

I have found a map of the French meteorological areas in Reeds Almanac. We have just passed from Pazenn into Finisterre, with Charcot to seaward and Josephine to the south west, Porto to the south followed by San Vicente. We will probably cut across the corner of Charcot, across Josephine and down to the NW corner of Madeira. Doesn’t quite have the romantic appeal of Faeroes, Viking, Cromarty, Dogger and the rest of the UK areas that we all learned almost by heart from the BBC as kids.

I’m on watch, so ducking up every few minutes to check for ships. Pete is cooking up a stew and we’re going to celebrate Jeanne’s birthday in Local Time very soon.

Farewell Raffie – a young friend who died in a car crash in St Vincent a few days ago. We’re thinking of you, Mitchie and Foster and his family.

1-18. Betwixt Madeira and Morocco

Aug 24, 2005 - 0430hrs UTC

0430hrs 24 Aug 2005 UTC 43’14”N 010’16”W Ref 308

Here I sit, in our tatty old bus shelter, a dusty streetlight across the road laying a grey screen across the keyboard, the laptop attached to it’s pocky extension cord snaking away into the gloom, wishing I were better oiled with Harry Pendel’s fluence.

We’re just outside the Finisterre separation zone – one of Europe’s busier corners. Lots of ships around, most of them seem to be outside the zone. The moonlight is so bright that I can see the hull of a ship to starboard under its navigation lights and I sometimes feel the illusion that the headsail, poled out to port, is a lateen sail off a dhow, such is the occasional moonshadow effect. Odd – reminds me of an incident on my first night solo during flying training when I was rigidly convinced the aircraft was inverted just after take off because the lights of a village were reflected by the canopy. Nearly killed myself flipping it over but remembered the instruments just in time – else all y’all wouldn’t be getting all this guff.

We’re ghosting along, gently rolling in the dying swell heading SSW at about 4.5 kts. Too slow, but not slow enough to need drastic action. A few dolphins around. Boot ferals coming out of aestivation and loudly comparing notes about the quality of the festering goodies they’ve woken up in. We won’t reach today’s 24 hour distance target but still just ahead of schedule. We had intended to sail down the inside of the separation zone so that we could say we had seen the Spanish coast, but there’s a SW change due and I’ve just gybed out to sea to meet it and give us some room if it comes on strong. Also a bit daft at night – there are warnings about ‘tunny nets may be set up to 7 miles out to sea…’ on the chart and I’d hate to get tangled up in one, as, I suspect, would any self respecting tuna.

Berri fat and heavy, has a different repertoire of creaks and groans – there’s an interesting creak next to my left ear as I sit at the nav table – happens when we roll to starboard and I think it may be the preventer picking up the strain. Don’t know, but it’s not serious. As we roll downwind, it seems the sails are just filled, but there’s actually a lot of power there moving about 8 tons of boat and masses of water. The preventer holds the boom forwards and prevents the worst effects of an inadvertent gybe if Kevvo were to get thrown way off line by an out of court wave. At the mo, he’s just got enough apparent wind to keep us on line.

1-18. Betwixt Madeira and Morocco

Aug 24, 2005 - 0900hrs UTC

0900hrs 24 Aug 2005 UTC 42’59”N 010’25”W Ref 309

DB: days run 113 nm = +23nm.

Fine sunny day – very big NW swell, about 8 – 10 metres – must have been something happening up there. Light breeze here, nowt else to report.

Mal, are you the owner of Little Red Rocket yet? How does it feel?

[Ed: the electronic stuff seems to be understood, if not exactly sorted.  Thanks to Marc Robinson]

From Marc Robinson

Morning Alex, sounds like you have a real SOB on board!

If this problem occurs only when the HF starts transmitting, it is most likely that RF energy is being picked up by the wiring in the boat that is connected to the particular serial port that is botching everything up. It’s probably a long cable run from a GPS receiver or the like. Do you have any spare clip-on ferrites that you could wrap the cable through a couple of times within a foot or so of the serial port?

I’ll not waste your daily email limit.
Happy sailing

Thanks Marc- this might be the answer – the usb port in question is the one that feeds converted vhf signals from other vessels’ AIS systems to the SoB system and there’s a little vhf aerial on the pushpit that picks them up and coax cable  to the AIS engine next to the nav table. I don’t have any spare ferrites and anyway don’t want to mess with something that is working so will leave it all disconnected. Interestingly, sailmail transmitted on 6 megs but when I changed to 10, the usb serial multi died. It began transmitting and failed a few seconds later, so it all adds up. I thought it was the change via the application that was going wrong.

1-18. Betwixt Madeira and Morocco

Aug 25, 2005 - 0920hrs UTC

0920hrs 25 Aug 2005 UTC 41’18”N 011’40”W Ref 310

DB: 24 hour run 116 = 619 total = + 19 sfsg!

The blackest of black nights – a bank of thick, low drizzly cloud rolled in from the west at dusk, took away the wind for a bit and so black that no horizon either. Most unusual, even at hight. When the moon rose, it added a gentle glow through the murk occasionally and once shone super bright like a stage floodlight through a hole away to the east, so that I could see the beam and the circle of light but not the moon. Eerie. And I can hear but not see the gulls. Also eerie. Just before dusk we sailed through a group of tiny black petrels sitting on the water and they all flopped and flapped and darted around the wavetops till we passed. Lovely sight.

Otherwise, so far,so good. Had some problems with transmitting and receiving emails – there is HF energy getting into the USB multi-serial port – but I think we can work around it. And we both seem to be needing lots of sleep – the day is a sequence of rather long and tedious watches separated by instantaneous three hour sleeps. I do the 0900 to 1200, 1500 – 1800, 2100-midnight, 0300 – 0600 sequence. We are on UTC and will stay that way.

From Brian and Jen, Dunedin, NZ

Great to know that you are on the move again, congrats on your 11th position in the fastnet race.Really looking forward to following this leg of your journey and will feast on your comments. Spring is on the way here in Dunedin, can now hear the birds as we wake in the morning.

We had a look at a beuatifully constructed Ganley 54 footer hull, only 70k for 200ks worth of construction, unfortunately the remaining work to do is beyond our finances.Will keep looking though and keep our expectations to around the 40ft mark.

Stay safe and keep them emails rolling in.

Brian and Jen, and any one else who sails shorthanded, you might like to have a look at www.petitbateau.org.uk – interesting outfit and the website is run by Diana Holder who is super helpful and looked after us very well. Thanks Diana. And we met a lot of other people through it, both before and after the Fastnet. Diana gave me a glass if wine not long after we finished, on a huge cat called Dazzle.

From Peter C.

I was talking to John K. a short while ago, and we’d like to ask if you and Peter would be available to present a talk about your circumnavigation exploits to CYCA Cruising next year. This would be at some suitable time after you’ve both settled down following the big adventure and the Hobart race. We were thinking of April or thereabouts, but it would need to be at a time that fitted in with your plans.

Wishing pleasant sailing to you both, and good fortune for the second half of Berrimilla’s voyage.

Peter C, we’d be delighted to talk to the Cruisers, but we still have to get home. Assuming that part of the operation is more or less successful, April seems about right. What do you think they’d like to hear about?

And Malcolm and Dave, Happy New Boat. We are about to carry out a long distance christening Consultation – what do you want to call her? Will be known as Little Red Rocket out here off Portugal for the time being. Reports, please, after you have taken her out a few times.

1-18. Betwixt Madeira and Morocco

Aug 25, 2005 – 2230hrs UTC

2230hrs 25 Aug 2005 UTC 40’21”N 012’16”W Ref 311

It’s been a bit cushy so far – haven’t done a sail change since we left. Biggest gust about 25 knots. For the sartorially inclined, I’m still wearing the same shirt I had on when we left – a rather stained blue number – and Pete changed out of his special Trum shirt into his Lord Howe polo and there we go.

Another very black night – low cloud but not as dark as last night – just possible to make out a horizon. Anyone looking down from above would see a phosphorescent arrow, our bow wave at the head, the wake trailing astern and two feathers spreading from the turbine 40 metres behind. Haven’t seen a ship for a couple of days – we are a bit far out, heading for Madeira and then outside the Cape Verdes to the equator. Almost back inside the 40 degree band – we don’t have to go outside it to get home although we will probably go south of it in the Indian ocean.

Hi Gerry and Donnaq, hi Maggie, David, Eleanor(I’ll write soon), Eve,

1-18. Betwixt Madeira and Morocco

Aug 26, 2005 - 0415hrs UTC

0415hrs 26 Aug 2005 UTC 39’58”N 012’29”W Ref 312

More idle musings: I’ve been thinking about arcs and great circles and the moment, all those months ago (February?) when we passed just south of The Antipodes Islands, on the dateline SE of NZ. Hilary and Malcom sent us emails saying that they were so named because they are directly opposite Greenwich on the earth’s surface. So the shortest distance between the two would lie along either arc of an infinite number of great circles – except that I doubt whether they are exactly opposite so back to one only, and the earth’s oblatitude would favour one arc or the other. And I remember vividly a few weeks ago standing on the Greenwich meridian outside Flamsteed’s house at the Royal Observatory at Greenwich, looking down through the earth at those rather bleak little islands and thinking that I’m possibly the only person this century and one of very few ever to have been in both places in the same year. Leroy and the Orbiters, world famous skiffle group, would perhaps qualify if we allow for vertical distance. Even Groucho might have had difficulty boycotting a club of which he was the only qualified member – but then, why bother anyway.

Silly blather. We’re trickling along, I think about to lose our little distance cushion over our schedule – to keep it, we must sail 39 miles in the next 5 hours and that just ain’t going to happen at 3.4 knots. Poo!

And Malcolm perhaps thinking of Wildfire (nice name). Do the S2H, Mal, and get Dave to come and meet us so you can take photos…

0500 – We’re motoring at 5 knots – almost no wind. The equation – we’ve got about 230 litres of diesel left, the tractor burns about a litre an hour and we must maximise the number of miles we get from every litre. No good starting it when we are doing 3 knots just to get the speed up to 5 – that’s only worth 2 miles/litre and so on. The finesses – use the wind to complement the tractor so minimising revs and diesel burn, keep the tractor in gear when we make water, just save the diesel for the doldrums – but that assumes that we’ll need it down there – is this a valid assumption?

From Ann G.

Subject: Solar storms

NOAA ISSUES SPACE WEATHER WARNING

Aug 24, 2005 – Forecasters at the NOAA Space Environment Center in Boulder, Colo., observed an extreme-G5 on the NOAA space weather scales-geomagnetic storm, that began on August 24 at 2:12 a.m. EDT. Solar flares on August 22 produced minor to moderate radio blackouts (R1 and R2) and a moderate radiation storm (S2). Also, two large Earth-directed coronal mass ejections occurred on August 22, which resulted in today’s extreme geomagnetic storming. The most intense period of geomagnetic storming occurred between 4:00 a.m. and 7:00 a.m. EDT on Wednesday. The storm is currently subsiding. However, additional but less intense geomagnetic storming is expected through Thursday.

Ann G, welcome back and thanks for NOAA geomagnetic storm warnings – I had noticed that propagation is not the best and it’s nice to know there’s an external reason.

1-18. Betwixt Madeira and Morocco

Aug 26, 2005 – 0900hrs UTC

0900hrs 26 Aug 2005 UTC 39’34”N 012’43”W Ref 313

DB: 24 hrs:118, total 738, =+18 – still in there. The wind came back from the NW just after I sent my last. Breakfast was a toasted cheese sando and the Usual brown sauce.

1-18. Betwixt Madeira and Morocco

Aug 26, 2005 – 1840hrs UTC

1840hrs 26 Aug 2005 UTC 39’03”N 013’01”W Ref 314

We miscalculated a bit – now stuck in the very soft end of a ridge coming off the azores high towards northern Portugal – no wind at all and we’re motoring with the tractor just ticking over to give us 3.5 knots. The grib says there’s wind closer in towards the coast but there’s no way we’re going to get there. So we’re pottering across a big grey disc with a diameter of about 6 miles – long swell, wavelength about 150 metres, about 4 metres high. Takes about an hour to crawl to the horizon we can see ahead of us. No clouds anywhere so no real prospect of a change. Character forming.

For Gerry and anyone else who teaches safety and sea survival – and all y’all who go sailing – I’ve just conducted a small experiment. I tossed a roughly 20 cm square coloured and highly visible cardboard box (definitely biodegradeable) over the side and watched it as we moved away. Remember, bright sunlight, no wind, no wind waves, just swell and we’re doing 3.5 knots. It was clearly visible until it rose over the next wave astern, about 150 metres away about 2 minutes later and then I never saw it again, even with binoculars. Wouldn’t have sunk or drifted sideways – we just weren’t on the tops of the swells at the same time. A human head in the water would be much harder to see – a strobe might have a better chance, especially at night, but crew drills and quick action are clearly the go. A trail of floating objects would be a good start, plus the GPS MOB button.

Sleep calls – might continue this later.

1-18. Betwixt Madeira and Morocco

Aug 26, 2005 – 2115hrs UTC

2115hrs 26 Aug 2005 UTC 38’55”N 013’03”W Ref 315

clear night, slight haze so the universe doesn’t have the awesome depth it has from the southern ocean. Still amazing but would be better with some wind. Currently zilch.

1-18. Betwixt Madeira and Morocco

Aug 27, 2005 - 0950hrs UTC

0950hrs 27 Aug 2005 UTC 38’06”N 013’27”W Ref 316

DB: 24hr= 93, mostly engine, total 830/840 = -10 so the buffer is history. We need some wind and a couple of good days.

I’ve just dipped the fuel tank – not the most accurate measure- and it seems we are burning about 1 litre/hr – rather more that I’d hoped. For that we were getting about 3.5 knots so not very efficient. I will try slightly higher revs next time to see whether it is any better. Very hard to judge. An accurate fuel flowmeter would be a real bonus for a cruising boat. We have about 210 litres left.

From Rowley B.

The Blackest of Black Nights “Its been a long time since I fired-off a missive to the tatty old “”bus shelter”” (in truth not an appropriate reference to an old bird that’s exceeded all expectations!)

Belated congratulations on the magnificent performance in Fastnet.

Until I reread your update about the cloud “”rolling-in from the west”” it occurred to me that black night might partially be attributed to the fires in Northern Portugal… but then if there was any element of smoke, you will have surely smelt it. My immediate reaction was what an awful predicament to be in when close to shipping lanes… but obviously you had everything under control, as always.

I was wondering if The Berrimilla Global Empire includes a network in Capetown. The only resident yachtsmen I had the privilege of knowing in that fair (windy) city succumbed to cancer…but if need be I could dispatch a runner with a message in a fork stick to alert of Boer Mafia of your impending arrival.

This weekend I’m hoping to assist a mate sail his recently acquired Beneteau 44 from Port Stephens to its new home port in Broken Bay.

You certainly burnt up the track the other day… hope Berri gets to romp some more.

Dicky B – sorry, left you out of one of the lists – hope we don’t keep you waiting too long. And Rowley, thanks for the offer – we don’t intend to stop in Cape Town unless things get really pear shaped, but useful to know there’s a potential network.

Another almost cloudless day – about 10 kts of nothing very much from the north and nothing to report except that we have about half a knot of current going with us. Better than a poke in the eye. This is day 7, so we will be one week down out of about 16 – and I get to listen to disc 2 of le Carre reading Gardener tomorrow. Goody. Life’s little treats are important out here in the bus shelter – otherwise it’s just litter blowin’ in the wind and dogs sniffing the furniture.

Our nearest neighbours, briefly, have just been the 100 or so people on what I think was a 737 that flew almost directly over us. It was making con trails so it must have been at about 33000ft – say 5 miles above us. If it was a 737, it doesn’t have the range for a transatlantic flight, so it must be inbound from the Azores to Lisbon. With something to give some perspective and contrast through the binoculars, I could see a very thin even layer of ice crystals above it, which explains the rather fuzzy universe last night.

And there’s a line of cloud to the NW – will it bring us some real wind or just extinguish the diaphanous zephyr wot we’ve (almost) got now? Watch this space.

Cookie crumbler – and all our other mates down there at .co.fk in the deeepest South – g’day. What news of The Baby? Please keep us posted – and JMB, does the flagpole fit? We’re going to have an ‘Abeam Trafalgar’ Consultation in a couple of days – if we ever get down there. Nelson is aboard – the highly romanticised Sir William Beechey version from the NPG in which his neck with all its decorations is longer than his head – makes him look a bit like the African women that wear rings around their necks. Nice portrait all the same. He arrived on a postcard with some rather special goodies just before we left Fmth. Thanks Laura. We’ve made an exception to the ‘no glass’ rule, but lots of compensatory bubble wrap, deep in the aft bilge. We will need to beat the rust that’s even now eating away the caps.

1-18. Betwixt Madeira and Morocco

Aug 27, 2005 - 1730hrs UTC

1730hrs 27 Aug 2005 UTC 37’39”N 013’57”W Ref 317

Not always possible to send these immediately – now 3739 01357 27/1730 and we have wind again – the unimaginably sexy assy is up there pulling us along and we’re eating into the deficit. More tomoz.

1-18. Betwixt Madeira and Morocco

Aug 28, 2005 - 0900hrs UTC

0900hrs 28 Aug 2005 UTC 36’51”N 015’15”W Ref 318

DB: 24 hr 121 total 951/960 = -9 so we’ve clawed back a mile. The southerly current component was 5 miles so very nice to have. You will be getting these 0900 updates about half a day late because the propagation at 0900 is not good – and anyway, I can’t transmit with the autopilot going because it does dreadful things to our course and sometimes crashes the USB gizmo too.

Mostly assy, but now on engine again – assy great to start with then needed serious concentration as the wind died and backed – down wind with a kite in light breezes and a swell is not easy – the boat rolls all over the place and tries to overtake the kite and you have to try to keep it under and behind the kite or the kite will wrap itself around the forestay. Things can then be said to be pearshaped in the bus shelter. Today will be another big loser on schedule but we’ll catch up later.

31 miles to Trafalgar Con. Eight days down and we have measurable progress. Good feeling. About 5 weeks to 40 S at this rate, if the diesel holds out and we can go reasonably straight down the South Atlantic. I’ve got her tractoring at 4.5 knots this time – perhaps an extra knot for a proportionately smaller increment in consumption. Fingers crossed.

From Peter C.

Can’t go into any detail about what we’d like to hear – it’s more a case of “”where to stop?””.  A checklist would be all based around the experiences of you both on the voyage, and could cover:

Communications – how you did it, what worked, what didn’t, what would be better; self-steering gear; heavy weather sailing and what’s good practice on Berri; sail selection for the whole trip (what fabric? any thoughts on reefing systems? triple stitching? second track on mast so trysail can be hoisted instead of multiply-reefed main? & comments on systems for reefing/changing sail; power – electrical & motor (I haven’t seen any mention of the bike being used as a generator – was that idea abandoned?); navigation; provisioning & stowage; anecdotes from the trip – Dunedin, Falklands, Falmouth, etc; what worked well/medium/would do differently next time/would never do again; route planning & weather forecasts; various cruising weblogs & email centres; the serendipitous chats with NASA & Leroy, then meeting him; what’s boring and what’s wonderful; …….and finally: where are you planning to go for the next long trip? (obviously with Hilary as crew).

We were thinking of 90 minutes for this. And would you be available for the 2006 Heavy Weather Sailing night we run? It’d be around May/June 2006.

All the very best of good fortune.

Peter C, thanks – keep that list for me please, and yes, we’ll be available for the HWS session. Having said which, I’m going to have to get straight back to work when we get back, to try to fix the black hole in my bank account, so I might need some notice.

Have just seen an object in the water – went over to have a look as we’re motoring – it’s glassy calm but with biggish swell – and it was a small turtle about 30 cm diameter – its position, in case you want to go have a look, is just outside the bus shelter at 364316 0152118. If we manage to preserve the GPS log when we get back, it will be marked by a little circle in our track. Seemed to be asleep, but looked up at me as we departed.

I’ve been in this patch of ocean once before, must have been Dec 23/24 1963 in HMS Centaur – we’d just embarked in the squadron aircraft in in the Channel when Centaur received a mayday from the liner Lakonia, on fire near here somewhere. The engineers cranked the ship to full speed – everything shaking and rattling, huge bow wave, heat haze from the funnel, choppers ranged on deck ready to get into rescue mode. Sadly, we arrived a few hours too late – we found a gutted ship still burning, lots of people in the water but no survivors. Most of the passengers and crew had been picked up by other ships. As we were leaving, we saw a massive bow wave creaming in from the north – a Dutch tug racing in to claim salvage. It took Lakonia in tow but it sank on the way to Gibraltar. We went into Gibraltar on Christmas day to disembark the dead. Very sad Christmas. I may have written about this somewhere else in the log on the way up. [ed: the full story here].

1-18. Betwixt Madeira and Morocco

Aug 28, 2005 – 2330hrs UTC

2330hrs 28 Aug 2005 UTC 35’57”N 015’48”W Ref 319

This evening we rolled 3 Celebrations into one: the almost 200th anniversary of Trafalgar, 1000 miles in the can and we’ve passed the northern version of Wollongong. Special occasion and we opened a  Boags and a Coopers from our secret supply. But this poor little flea has walked slap into a gigasplodge of dried mud and dung on our elephant’s backside – I’ve never known so much cloud to be associated with so little wind. We are still motoring and have been since about 0500. Every now and again there’s the tiniest hint of a puff against the cheek but it’s illusory – nothing happening at all. So another black black night with a misty indistinct meeting of sky and water around the horizaon – bitsd of the sky blacker than others where the cloud is thickest and the occasional glimpse of a star. But the Phosphorescence is breathtaking – as bright as I’ve ever seen it and it occurs as a solid luminous line along the crest of out tiny bow wave and then spreads and breaks into millions of sparkles as the wave rolls back. It’s as if the stars are in the water around us – brightens up the old studio no end.

We’ve now burned 40 litres of diesel – one sixth of our supply, but there’s no real choice but to go on burning it – perhaps for another 48 hours. Both the SatCom EGC forecast and the grib say we should be getting force 4 – 4 from the north but we aren’t.

1-18. Betwixt Madeira and Morocco

Aug 29, 2005 – 1015hrs UTC

1015hrs 29 Aug 2005 UTC 35’13”N 016’06”W Ref 320

DB: 24hr = 105, total =1056/1080 so schedule = -24. All on the engine – we turned it off just before 9. Within the tolerances required by significant measurement error (or at least doubt) we are burning 1 ltr/hr @ 4 kts and we’ve burnt 54 ltrs so far, leaving us with 126 in the cans. This tallies with every other measurement I’ve done over the years with this engine, but we’re a bit heavier than usual just now.

- 24 on sched is not a showstopper by any means – we know we can easily do 120/day+ with any sort of helpful wind – we just haven’t got it right now. So we’ll catch up – if not in the Atlantic, then in the southern Indian Ocean. I reckon we’ll cross the equator west of the mid point, maybe cross almost to the Brazilian coast, then loop down to 40S under Cape Town and then run 40 – 42 most of the way, with a duck down under SE Cape at the end, finishing the 2 handed circ. at the Iron Pot. With a serious Consultation with anyone who cares to assemble. Then straight back to Synney. Well, that’s the wishful think. There’s a long way to go – perhaps 12500 miles or so if we can’t cut any corners.

For those of you who need a fix of storm and tempest and greyish knuckles with your morning coffee, my sincere apologies – you must find these figures rather boring. For us, though, they are the business end of the enterprise – looks as if we’ve established a basis for believing that we can (maybe just) be home for the start. We will do our best to provide storm and tempest later – right now, apart from the frustratingly pathetic wind, it’s nice and restful.

We have the assy up and drawing again – only 8 – 10 knots of breeze and we’re getting 4 – 5 over the ground. The assy is set fairly flat – tight luff and the clew held down but not pulled down, so that the leech holds its shape as the boat rolls. There’s just enough wind to keep it filled. Pole almost against the forestay, jockey pole prodding the elements to starboard.

Another turtle – #3 – they appear as spiky humps in the water and seem to be asleep.

H & K, I’ve just finished the first crossword and I’m into the second. Thanks for taking the time to collect them all. And Hiccy Gurgle Isso – open one of those bottles. John le Carre is in the wings, waiting to enter stage right with The Gardener. Whoopee.

29/1200 And the wind dropped out again. Another turtle – which civilisation is it that believes that the universe consists of a pyramid of turtles? We’ve been working out there in the now very hot sun for an hour trying to sail- just to save a couple of litres of diesel. But the tractor is turning again…  Opened the pickled walnuts for lunch – thanks Tom.

29/1600 We were exactly 6 hours astern of schedule when we passed 1080 miles. That’s about 4 days over the rest of the voyage if we can keep this going. We will lose quite a lot more over the next few days, I think, but we will catch up later.

29/1700 – another puff – genoa up this time. All for about 1/4 knot over the engine speed.

1-18. Betwixt Madeira and Morocco

Aug 30, 2005 – 0930hrs UTC

0930hrs 30 Aug 2005 UTC 33’38”N 016’59”W Ref 321

DB: 24hr = 107 total 1163/1200 = -37. All except a mile or so on the engine. I’ll do the run rate on that later. We are about 50 miles from Madeira – can’t see Porto Santo, the smaller and lower island to the NE but there’s a bank of cloud where it ought to be. Madeira looks a bit like Maria Island off Tasmania’s SE coast from here – the same double peak and ridge back.

Our first landfall out of Hobart was The Snares, south of NZ, about 8 days out, so this has taken longer.

We’re ghosting along in 11 kts from the NW, making 4.5. Engine off at 0915. Still very fluky wind, but here’s hoping. The grib predicts better the further south we go from here. Fingers crossed. Will transfer fuel from cockpit tank to main tank later and assess stocks. We left with 120 ltrs in 6 jerry cans in the saloon, a 40 ltr plastic tank in the cockpit and about 80 ltrs in the main tank, so 240 in all. 2 jerries gone and main tank probably down to about 40.

Bright sunshine and using the solar panel to keep the battery up, rather than towing the turbine in this breeze and losing a bit of speed. The panel is working really well but the Xantrex monitor has not worked since we disconnected all the electrics – we must have missed a lead somewhere because it isn’t measuring input/output any more. The GPS gives an accurate voltage reading and we can monitor the battery by watching this – the panel and its regulator are holding it at 13.9/14 volts which is fantastic.

Will try my Telstra sim card as we get close to Madeira. Should be in range during Oz daytime.

Have the assy back up, just able to lay the western end of Madeira, Ponta del Prago, at 5.5 knots. Will try to sneak this away in the propagation hole.

1-18. Betwixt Madeira and Morocco

Aug 30, 2005 – 1930hrs UTC

1930hrs 30 Aug 2005 UTC 32’55”N 017’23”W Ref 322

We are passing Ponto del Prado at the western end of Madeira. I have just dropped my mobile phone into the water, complete with Telstra SIM and about 100 phone numbers. How do I feel??

Its last call was to my Mum, which I suppose is appropriate. H, I think you are a nominated person on the account – could you please get a new SIM next time you pass a Telstra shop? They are free as far as I can remember.

Madeira looks like an interesting place and it has some history. Big volcanic plug, I think, not unlike Lord Howe, that’s been slowly eroding into the sea. Deep craggy valleys, vertical, massive cliffs into the sea, little settlements along the ridges, tiny harbour at Moniz in the NW with a big rock just off shore. Cook came here to replenish – mostly beer and wine – and most of the early Portugese explorers. All gone, but the rock remains. We’re a fragile and ephemeral presence on this planet.

1-19. Senegal and Pete's Birthday

Aug 31, 2005 – 0845hrs UTC │Alcohol List, Journey Home

0845hrs 31 Aug 2005 UTC 31’59”N 018’22”W Ref 323

DB: 24hr:127, total 1290/1320 sched = -30 so we’re getting back into it.
In deep mourning for friendly little phone and the big chunk of my life’s database that went with it. Bereft, I am. And stupid. It will be sitting there on the edge of the shelf west of Madeira until the island erodes on top of it or the earth dives into its next black hole. Don’t think I will be around to reclaim it.

Lots to write about, but boring stuff – are you all bored stiff already? Seems as if you are, from the wheelbarrow loads of mail we’ve been getting. it’s difficult in these conditions to get time to write because of the need to be on deck almost constantly with the assy up and rolling swell and seas. Or asleep. Will try – and I suppose we can always crank up our stone age version of flight simulator in the bus shelter to spice up the news.

Malcom, thanks for the Ninja. Hugh, we passed a grey bearded old Turtle – Michaelangelo? Methuselah? – who asked if we knew ‘those Tacit people’ – promised him we’d pass on his regards.

Some questions, to see who’s out there: *For a friend in the USA: Do the English or the Australians use the word ‘phat’ and, if so, what does it mean? It’s apparently an acronym, in use in North America and I think I’ve heard Katherine use it. Some context please. Did you know that ‘chuffed’ is taken to mean angry or upset Over There?
*Is there an airport on Madeira? We didn’t see any aircraft – or, surprisingly, any boats except for one possible fishing boat last night. Looks to be a very difficult place to put a decent runway on.
*How did square rigged ships ever get into Funchal? Must have been difficult – big wind shadow – Cook’s Journal might have at least one answer. Perhaps they only visited Porto Santo.
* Port was originally red wine shipped out of Oporto in used brandy casks – what was the origin of Madeira in it’s bottled version?

The Flea spent all of yesterday hiking towards this big chunk of craggy gravel and dried mud rising over the curvature of the elephant’s bum, then in the evening passing its western end in the flat pink sunlight with tiny silver and gold serrated clouds right down low on the western horizon below the main cloud layer. Then most of the night watching its fairy lights disappear astern. Do dung beetles glow in the dark?

Would have been nice to drop in to Madeira. It’s about the same size and shape as the Isle of Wight, but mountainous. Perhaps a project for the future.

31/1130: Unable to hold the assy and any sort of course – now twin poled, heading directly down the course making 4-5. Got really sweaty doing the complete sail change – drop the assy, fold the #1 and put it away, hook on the 2 and pole it out and raise it, hook on the cutdown 1, pole it out and raise it, drop the main, furl and tie it down, take off all the kite lines and coil them and put them away, put away the jockey pole, tidy up the spaghetti of halyards, sheets, downhauls etc in the cockpit, trim the headsails and Consult – having done all that, between us, I thought I should change out of the gear we left Fmth in. Now very hot, we have the cockpit awning rigged for shade.

[ed: some time later…..]

It’s time to apply the fudge factor to the Daily Bull. Distance covered directly towards a destination is called Distance Made Good or DMG. The distance measured by a GPS is distance covered over the ground, which is almost never the same as DMG, because the boat’s track over the ground wanders around a bit. It is easy to program a GPS to give DMG if it knows where the destination or at least the next waypoint is but in the game we are playing here, all that it rather too vague – we don’t know where we are going, exactly, but we could program a theoretical shortest route into the instrument. Or I could get out a chart and do it with pencil, plotter and ruler. Both rather tedious and probably futile, so we will apply a fudge factor of 5% for the time being. I will modify this daily based on my assessment of the previous day’s run.

The fudge factor assumes that the GPS is reading a greater distance over the ground that the actual DMG by 5%. For this morning’s Daily Bull, the GPS total was 1290 miles. Multiplying this by 0.95, we get 1225.5 which becomes our estimated DMG. Subtracting this from the required DMG of 1320, we get 95 (ignoring the .5). On this basis, we are nearly a day (120 miles) behind schedule. This seems to me to be about right, given the last few days’ windless stinkpotting, but not a big problem – we should start eating into any deficit as soon as we get a steady wind with a bit of strength.

We are getting to the end of our fresh provisions. The bread got mouldy and has been tossed, some of the fruit went the same way. Carrots, zooks, eggplant all getting a bit wrinkly. Bacon still fine, eggs too and spuds. Cheese is looking very oily -may not last the distance. We wrap it in tissue when we open the pack to soak up the oil – the cheese goes a bit crumbly but still tastes ok. We will start making bread and soaking the dried fruit and getting into all the other dried goodies over the next few days.

For the curious, we left with 132 cans of The Doctor’s medicinal sauce, 80 Dr White Smoothies, 12 litres of gin, 42 litres of tonic, 24 litres of wine and 12 litres of cider, plus certain unspecified brown plastic bottles for special occasions. Do the numbers – it’s a relatively small medicine chest for 2 people over 110 days – one Consultation with the Dublin Doctor or his English colleague each per day, a G&T, and half a plastic mug of wine or cider.

1-19. Senegal and Pete's Birthday

Sep 01, 2005 - 0845hrs UTC

0845hrs 01 Sep 2005 UTC 30’10”N 019’34”W Ref 324

We are actually further from Hobart here than we were at Falmouth, by about 200 miles. We have sailed nearly 20 degrees westwards to allow us to get around Africa, and we will need to go a lot further to get behind the south atlantic high once we cross the equator.

However, the DB says: 24 hrs = 130, total 1420/1440 off the GPS but applying the fudge factor, say 125 for the days run, added to the Estimated DMG from last nights email gives 1225+125= 1350/1440 = -90, so we’ve regained 5 miles. That’s the fudge factor method. Or I could plot it all on a chart.

Or I could use my Merlin calculator (remember them? – wonderful bit of kit) to calculate the rhumb line and gt. circle distances between 0900 fixes – which I’ve done and it gives me 124 miles rounded, so fudge was not bad, but we’ve only regained 4 miles. I will use the Merlin from here and assume that we have 12000 miles to go. The new Daily Bull will have the days run between fixes and distance to go, so:

DB: 124, 12000  Still not quite an accurate rendition of DMG but a reasonable approximation. You can work out for yourselves what the run rate needs to be to get us home by Dec 11 as we progress. Why should I do all the work?

Still twin poled,relatively easy sailing, Kevvo in charge and we just look out for ships and do the chores. Have transferred fuel from the cockpit to the main tank and we have 160 litres left within measurement tolerances. And as we eat stuff and Consult, space appears and we can repack things and even find long lost underpants and books and other goodies. I’m still working on crossword no 2 – Think I’m stuck but there’s plenty of time. Pete is reading Morse – all those Colin Dexter quotes from the way up to Falmouth.

There was a tiny white crawly insect on the laptop screen last night and I found it or another on my crossword this morning. Baby cockroaches? Mutated boot ferals – wonder how they are doing – elephant fleas? little dung beetles looking for nourishment? Will investigate with magnifying glass if I find another.

From Ann G.

Subject: Phat

Phat is a bicycle manufacturer in California – elevated handle bars.  Tres cool!
Phat is also a program used in a Windows platform to help install LINUX platform on PCs.
Phat is also a slang word to describe something ‘cool’.
Phat also means ‘pretty hot and tempting’.

Subject: Chuff

A couple of pointers – to chuff is to expell methane from your nether porthole.

To be chuffed is to be okay with life.

I am unchuffed right now because my rather primitive, and probably misinterpreted as not serious, question about avoiding the African coast and going home thorugh the Med was not listed in the questions of the day.  I’m bruised but I shall prevail.

Hope all is going well.  The gulf of mexico (alabama, louisiana, western florida, mississippi) states are reeling under extreme environmental damage due to hurricane Katrina.  New Orleans is under 20 feet of water.  100’s of people dead – so not as devastating as the sunami last year but just as intense.

Ann G thanks twice and sorry about your question – don’t remember seeing it, but actually in my opinion much hairier – less phat – going that way than the way we are going, but for different reasons – we should post the replies – I like the bike manufacturer and I’d worked out a possible acronym that was close – mine was pretty hot and terrific. Tempting is much better.

From Tori P.

Glad to be of help with some trivia..””phat”” means cool, a bit like “”sick”” which means awesome.Used mostly by the skateboardy snowboardy 14 to 25 set.Used by the young kids in Ozzie a lot these days.

This mother has been known to use it too just to annoy the kids!!!

Lovely to keep following you.

Tori too – thanks all y’all.

1-19. Senegal and Pete's Birthday

Sep 01, 2005 – 2130hrs UTC

2130hrs 01 Sep 2005 UTC 29’13”N 020’25”W Ref 325

We seem to be in the Trades at last – uncomfortable rolling downwind ride twin poled but hooning along. Cape Verdes next, then probably some more stinkpotting in the ITCZ.

1-19. Senegal and Pete's Birthday

Sep 02, 2005 – 0900hrs UTC

0900hrs 02 Sep 2005 UTC 28’21”N 021’13”W Ref 326

DB:139,11861 (GPS run was 140) so not a bad day. The wind has dropped and veered and we’re back to #1 and main in very lumpy sea. Otherwise, would be the assy. Another sweaty sail change before Breakfast. Kind of grey but with a hint of dust in the air.

1-19. Senegal and Pete's Birthday

Sep 02, 2005 - 1515hrs UTC

1515hrs 02 Sep 2005 UTC 27’53”N 021’22”W Ref 327

I thought we had hooked into the Trades but the Examiner came flouncing in this morning in pink hotpants and leathers with SM kit at the high port to tell us differently. Pottering along in about 10 knots from the east – heavy sky, haze, maybe dust, cloud, heat. Sea almost indigo. Not enough wind to fill either kite and, for all the required effort to get one up, probably futile to try, so we’re sitting back waiting for the sun to dip below the spreaders in the murky sky and signal the necessity for refreshment. It is difficult for an old stick-at-home like me to come to terms with the proximity of Africa – about 400 miles to the coast of Western Sahara, Cape Blanc in Mauretania way out there on the port bow. It’s Friday, RANSA twilights (Hi everyone – have a good one) and I’m used to thinking of Berri in the pond at CYC – or chatting up Frank to get a berth on the pontoons somewhere for the weekend and this Africa stuff is not reality – yet nor is it a dream. Just not plausible somehow. What are we doing here? How did we come to be here?

We are on a well travelled bit of ocean – direct route for all the early sailors going south then either east or west about from Europe and now the milk run for yachts from Europe and the Med heading for the Cape verdes and the departure point for the transatlantic passage to the West Indies. We are about a month ahead of the big rush, although given the hurricane nastiness, there may be a lot fewer this year.

Yachting Monthly and Yachting World come out in the UK next week, so they should be in the Australian shops by the end of the month if they fly them out, or in about 6 – 8 weeks if shipped. Hugh Marriott, who wrote the YM article, has kindly allowed us to put his pre-edited original on the website once YM hits the streets -Thanks Hugh – I think it’s much better that the edited version, which tends to emphasise the sensational and misses Hugh’s message. All y’all can judge for yourselves. Hugh has also written a terrific book called ‘The Selfish Pig’s Guide to Caring’ which I hope will make him rich and famous.

I haven’t seen Jo Cackett’s article for Yachting World – a pleasure for the future, Jo. Any chance of a soft copy to Stephen  at berri@berrimilla.com? Well done in your Fastnet – 3rd in class is huge. I think the honours are about even on that one and I’m looking forward to exchanging a pot or two next time. What next for you?

Stephen and Mal, could you please crank up your South Atlantic weather sites and start watching the S.A. high – we will probably have to go to the west of it, but the more tightly we can cut the corner, the better, so it would be useful to get some idea as we close in on it about the wind towards its centre and west. But a long way to go yet.

Thanks, Dorothy, for the photos – we remember that send off rather well!

From James J.

 still here and reading.  Fantastic result for the Fastnet race. I haven’t caught up with all the reading but it must have been edifying to sail all that way AND get a good result! 

 I just read a webpage account of an American sailor/academic who sailed his 35′ steel around the word in 1985 without any instruments including compass. He intellectualised everything including altitudes of different stars for longitude, wave patterns, species of birds and insects etc etc.. very interesting.

 I just got back from sailing the Sydney Southport race and Hamilton Island Race week on `Calibre’. Syd- S/P we finished 2nd in the Syd 38 Div. The 38 fleet has very close racing and the highlight was still racing boat for boat with 3 other Syd 38s reaching at 9 knts fully hiked inside Cook islet on a moonless night with .5m under the keel and me navigating. . At Hamilton Island race week we finished third with a crew of Michael Dunstan and his 2 match racing crew . I navigated and trimmed and we had an absolute ball. These 3 twenty something year old boys have grown up with exotics and know nothing about dacron, wire halyards, twin pole gybing and IOR rating certificates. The word `blooper’ and `tallboy’ had them rolling in the aisles and lessons from the IOR days became a theme. The regatta was in mostly 20-30knots of breeze so the sailmakers and shipwrights were kept busy. Quite a few boats found reefs during the racing. We also found  mud trying to rock hop ourselves off the start in Dent passage in adverse tide. We finally got off with a lovely view of the fleet some 2 or 3 miles down the track in the long race. Such is passage racing that we did a `Buffalos’ and passed half our competitors at night time in shifty breezes and adverse current. Alpha Romeo, Neville Chrichton’s new 100 ft Maxi spent the week hurtling around the fleet at never less than double figure boatspeeds. It will be very interesting to see all the giant canters sorted and racing one another at the maxi worlds.

 Hope all is well aboard the good ship `Berrimilla’ and that supplies are adequate for the necessary consultations.

 PS I’m noticing a trend amongst my girlfriend’s high flying banking associates to use the expression  `babel fish’….ie `Geeze Bruce we’re not f..ing paying that much for his company, its just his BB is hearing things differently.”” : )

And James, good to hear your news. Along the same lines, I’ve been offered the loan of a Figaro for the 2 handed Round Britain race – me, in a Beneteau??- which is tempting, but rather too distant for anything more than an expression of interest at the mo. David and Is, Ta, Woc, g’day.

1-19. Senegal and Pete's Birthday

Sep 03, 2005 - 0915hrs UTC

0915hrs 03 Sep 2005 UTC 26’21”N 022’12”W Ref 328

DB: 130, 11731 (gps 131) so there’s been some progress.

A little bit of idle comparison: I ran the Falklands marathon in approximately 4.75 hours, in other words at a speed of about 4.85 knots – more or less what we must average out here. Walking pace, really. My best ever marathon was at 8.86 knots(approx 2.6 hrs) – I don’t think we are likely to get close to that here except in very short bursts. Which, of course, proves nothing – comparisons being invidious, according to Dr Johnson. What does invidious mean anyway? I think the context was that the Great Man expressed disapproval of something (London, perhaps??) and someone asked him how he could disapprove of something God had made – at which the GM grunted and said ‘My dear Sir, comparisons are invidious, but God also made Scotland’ Collapse of stout party and audience in general. To take the comparison a bit further, Paula Radcliffe, my heroine and also the world’s fastest woman over a marathon course, ran hers in about 2.25 hours or about 10.25 kts and would have beaten Emil Zatopek to his Olympic gold medal by about a mile. Not sure of my facts but I think the fastest man ran about 2.08 hours or 11.1 kts. Both absolutely mind boggling to this old dinosaur. I will contemplate these achievements over Breakfast and The Other Doctor.

David, thanks – if there’s a Eureka, see if you can follow the bulge for September from the equator southwards and describe the line it takes – probably goes towards NE Brazil, then curves across towards Cape Town from about 30S. This would have taken them behind the high.

From Malcom C.

Conserve yr Coopers.  This week another beer company has bid to take over Coopers.  May not happen quickly though.

Malcom, don’t let it happen! Coopers is an institution and we don’t want some faceless marketer changing the product to appeal to today’s youth or something. Beer must have sludge it it…

1-19. Senegal and Pete's Birthday

Sep 04, 2005 – 0900hrs UTC

0900hrs 04 Sep 2005 UTC 24’29”N 023’22”W Ref 329

DB: 130,11601 (GPS 137) so another goodish day.

Really soupy haze – sun came up white, first sighting about an hour after sunrise, through the murk. Looks like convergence zone conditions but we’re not there yet. Looking at the grib, there’s a low forming over the Cape Verdes about 500 miles ahead – this is where the hurricanes are born, as big thunderstorms, which then set off west across the Atlantic and get bigger. There’s a photo on the website of Isabelle when it was just a big nasty thundercloud.

Looks as if the inter tropical convergence zone (the doldrums) is just south of the Cape Verdes and the SE trades at the equator are mostly SSE, so we’ll have to go west towards Brazil to make progress from there. But a long way ahead and it can all change in a day.

I’m now able to look ahead towards the rest of my life – there’s still this big black hole we’ve got to negotiate, but it does seem to have an opposite side, as it were. And I’m in trouble – I’ve been reminded that I promised last year’s S2H crew that they are all invited for this year’s if we get there in time so I shouldn’t have asked anyone else. Sorry, Steve and Fenwick and Katherine. So, Ross, James, Johnny G, Malcolm – are you on? Katherine first reserve, Jeanne second.

Made naan bread yesterday – fried the dough in very hot pan – worked really well and much quicker that long slow oven – think I’ll try to fry the next conventional bread mix as well. Will report later.

1-19. Senegal and Pete's Birthday

Sep 05, 2005 – 0500hrs UTC

0500hrs 05 Sep 2005 UTC 23’02”N 024’34”W Ref 330

Back in the Tropics – we crossed the Tropic of Cancer yesterday. Funny old day – warm and humid with very thick haze and the sun only visible as a white disc – so not dust, or it would have been bronze or reddish. We’re sailing very conservatively – keeping the boat above 5 knots but not pushing for maximum speed. Yesterday was poled out 5 and cutdown 1 for 6 – 7 knots dead downwind – uncomfortable, could have gone faster but no need. The turbine line is just the wrong length for the following sea as well and the turbine kept jumping out of the water and flailing around – it makes a giant farting noise – disconcerting.

Pete woke me from a deep sleep at 0300 to get that rig off and go back to main and cutdown. Very hard to get the body into gear – till I thought about the crews of the square riggers who had to wake up and climb the rig as well. Easy for us. It seems from the grib that the ITCZ is at the Cape Verdes – there’s a little low forming down there now and we will probably go through the back of it if the wind holds. More with the 0900 fix.

05/0915 DB: 132, 11469 (GPS 135) not bad. Straight line back to Falmouth is 1900 which is a reasonable approximation of DMG and we should be at 1920, so even that one is looking reasonable.

The strategy from here: first we have to get through the ITCZ around the Cape Verdes – this may be tricky, with thunderstorms, fluky wind or none, or it could be relatively easy. Won’t know till we get there. Then we will try to head SSE towards the equator to give us a better angle on the SE Trades, and across wherever that puts us, but aiming for about the mid point. Then we have to get around the South Atlantic high. More on this later.

1-19. Senegal and Pete's Birthday

Sep 05, 2005 – 1100hrs UTC

1100hrs 05 Sep 2005 UTC 22’36”N 024’53”W Ref 331

The S. Atlantic high is likely to be centred somewhere close to 23S 015W with a soft ridge extending west towards the S. American coast. Winds round a southern hemisphere high are anticlockwise so going to the west of the centre looks the better bet, and this is supported by the existence of the Benguela Current flowing NW up the African coast. The critical decision is how far west? Cutting the corner is a good idea as long as we have enough wind to keep moving or fuel to drive through the holes and the horse latitudes to the south of the high. We may have to stay close to S. America all the way down to 40S. We will have to wait until we get much closer and then assess the status of the ridge and the local winds. If I’m still able to keep sailmail running (by no means certain) then the grib will give us enough to go on. Rhumb line distances around westabout are very close to my Daily Bull DTG. Watch this space.

Flying fish everywhere – one tiny one and one almost worth eating on deck this morning. I wonder what they can see when they are out of the water – they seem to be able to direct their flight around wave tops and along the troughs, but this may just be a feel for the updrafts – and they mostly miss us during the day, only arriving on board at night. Do they have specially adapted eyes? Humans can only see blurry outlines under water because of the different refractive index – is it the same in reverse for fish? And what about at night?

Heavy, humid and sweaty. Not pleasant. No major breakdowns so far – apart from this intensely frustrating problem with the USB-Serial port gizmo which is irritatingly and unpredictably unstable and a nightmare to bring back up when it crashes. Takes several goes sometimes, and at least an hour of tense frustration. And I never know if it will work whenever I try to transmit. Not sure whether it loses power somehow (it is powered by the laptop through the USB cable) or is attacked by HF energy and gets switched off by the laptop trying to turn it into a serial mouse even though I’ve deleted the serial and HID mice. But I desperately and sincerely wish it wouldn’t. I hope Microsoft have a fix by the time we get back. I have reset the AIS port from 38400 baud to 4800 and disconnected all the AIS stuff in case that was affecting it, but doesn’t seem to have fixed it. spbf.

1-19. Senegal and Pete's Birthday

Sep 05, 2005 – 1630hrs UTC

1630hrs 05 Sep 2005 UTC 22’10”N 025’06”W Ref 332

I’ve put some target waypoints on the chart for your greater fascination – one at 26W on the Equator, the next at 23S 023W, where I hope we can turn towards home, one at Tristan da Cunha at 3704S 01217W which I hope we’ll pass to the north of, and one at 40S 020E directly below Cape Town. That’s the plan. Execution is in a different Kettle but exciting to have some blobs to aim at.

The water temp rose about 3 degrees to nearly 27 deg in the last 12 hours – and, sure enough, we’re headbutting about a knot of warm current.