2-5. Nome-Tuktoyaktuk (Canada)

Track


Logs ( 35 )

2-5. Nome-Tuktoyaktuk (Canada)

On the nose as usual. 6443 16737

Left Nome at 0910. Heading out towards King Island in a 15 – 20 knot nwerly. Big lumpy sea, but the sun is out which makes up for a lot! About 60 miles from C Wales, the westernmost point on the US mainland. About 90 miles from Russia. All new territory from here – scary and don't know what to expect, but we'll goo and have a look. King Island has/had amazingly resilient Eskimo population. Difficult to imagine how they survived out here.

Big thank you to Pat and Sue, and Megan and Anna and Clark and Chris for their kindness and help. I'll miss those morning runs, Megan! Longish comfortable stops and I tend to forget how to sail and how to get by in this tiny little plastic box.

On laptop no 2 already. The other one will not connect to Iridium – don't know why. Frustrating. Don't know whether this will work either so will keep it short.

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2-5. Nome-Tuktoyaktuk (Canada)

A lifetime special half hour 6503 16747

It's about 0100 Nome time. We're NE of King Island and I've just watched the sun set to the NW right in the middle of the Bering Strait. It's almost cloudless and I can just see the Russian coast, the Diomedes, Cape Wales silhouetted in the orange glow and the Kigluaik mountains softly grey against the horizon to the east. And – specially magical, the moon has just risen over Teller – big, white and glowing behind wispy clouds. Half an hour of pure joy and almost worth missing the eclipse for. And I bet it doesn't happen very often and when it does, there's no one here to enjoy it. So share it with me – a small patch of sea that, for a few moments seemed to be at the centre of the world.

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2-5. Nome-Tuktoyaktuk (Canada)

The shadow over the fence – 6556 16813 around midday.

We rounded C. Prince of Wales a couple of hours ago and are now running just east of North – yeeehaaa! – poled out in a 15 kt southerly. Those whom the Examiner wishes to test, she first makes happy and complacent! We are running more or less parallel with the Russian border, north of the Diomedes and about 18 miles to the east. Interesting that there is a vessel about 10 miles the other side of the border keeping pace with us. I have his AIS signal with his position, but he's not sending any ID, so perhaps the border guards are watching us! The Diomedes are wreathed in fog – I think relatively warm moist air being lifted, condensing water vapour and then the fog being blown down and around the islands over a cold sea. Fascinating to observe – pity I can't send you the photos. Our friend over there is too far away to see even with binoculars, but I can see C. Dezhneva clearly.

If all goes well, we should be in position to offer Neptune an Arctic Circle beer from Sydney in about 5 hours or 35 miles.

Later – 6621 16814 – our shadow has gone but we were passed by a merchant ship heading south, the Ocean Baron, 225 metres long, bound for Balboa, Panama. Didn't expect one of those up here – it draws 12 metres, so I wonder where it has come from. It is on the US side of the border. Did not see it, so don't know what sort of ship.

8 miles to the Arctic Circle – misty, cold rain, doing about 7 knots still poled out in a freshening southerly, due to go north tomoz.

And so it came to pass – we crossed the AC in cold misty rain at 1849 Nome time at 16818W. Pete, we gave Neptune a drop of your April brew and he pronounced it good, so we drank the rest. If anyone is seeing Potter, please tell him we have consulted deeply with Dr Gordon on his behalf before and after the AC.

Later still 6706 16821 and 0021 Nome time southerly still blowing – cold, wet and dismal but moving north. Comms very flaky will try this via iridium. Just heard Taupo radio NZ on 6224 – famiiar voices!

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2-5. Nome-Tuktoyaktuk (Canada)

The strait story - by Pat Hahn from Nome

The sailors do not line up to go through the Bering Strait. Not many have been through to tell its tail of icing, harrowing seas, converging currents and screaming winds. Generally when a few are caught in a violent storm with a pitch pole or two, we don’t see another for several years as word does get around. Willie pitch poled lengthwise 3 times in the late 80’s or early 90’s and it was years before we saw another sailboat.

The narrow passage between continents is one of the most special places on earth. There are two oceans, two continents, two days, two islands, two super powers, and as if to follow the political correctiveness, two colors of ocean streaming through to the north. There is a spot I have stood on, that put me into all these ‘twos’ at the same time. (It was winter, out in the middle on the ice. I wanted to do it Dec 31, 1999/Jan1, 2000 to add two years, two centuries and two millennium, but Alas, it is two dark and two mid winter in the worst weather and ice on earth) It makes your hair stand on end to even think about it.

To understand the summer Bering Strait weather one needs to look at a map and think to oneself, what will happen if the wind changes a few degrees? There is very high heat in the interiors of both the US and Russia. There is almost always ice in the arctic ocean and there is always a heavy blanket of cold moisture in the Pacific. All these within a couple hundred miles. Add a pressure system or two… or three, stir it all up with a big stick and it becomes impossible to predict, extremely volatile, and violent. I once crossed the strait from the Russian side in full blue skies and dead calm seas. In a total of two hours we first had huge swills, a small cloud appeared over Diomede(s), It grew fast enough it looked like a really bad sickening horror movie, and then we bounced ashore at little Diomede in a gale.(I don’t speak ‘sailor’- I hope ‘gale’ doesn’t mean anything more than a storm).

There are not many places outside a few long fjords at a full moon that it is possible for a standing wave in the ocean. Diomede has standing waves. To stand on the tiny island and stare at the enormity of the ocean going by at the speed of a river with standing waves… I wonder how the tiny Eskimo umiaks ever made it. I did it once and I still wonder.

Today the tiny ship Berrimilla is in a storm, heading north in the middle of the Bering Strait. My prayers are with them and my hat is off.

Pat from Nome

2-5. Nome-Tuktoyaktuk (Canada)

Examiner:again

Position: 69,3.80N , 166,30.21W
Unable transmit sailmail or iridium. This via SatC. Will send regular position reports, too expensive for blogs. sorry. May get sailmail back, if propagation improves, iridium I think is dead hardware linkage between handset and pc. Poo!

2-5. Nome-Tuktoyaktuk (Canada)

McQ: Arctic Circle!!

So we crossed the Arctic Circle yesterday afternoon- I was off watch and chilling in my toasty warm bunk and it was pouring with rain outside so I stayed put, spared a thought for Neptune for helping us this far and glanced out the window to see if it was as I remembered. And indeed it was, not dissimilar to the equator infact- just different creatures!!! Balancing precariously atop a giant floating Fox’s Glacier Mint was a big fluffy white bear, an even bigger mosquito with extra long skinny limbs, a huge spike for a nose and a big red belly, full to bursting, resting against the bear, and various other arctic animals playing around them: Walri, foxes, reindeer and huskies, all trying to topple the mint!!! There was a long thick pole sticking out one side and a big circular wooden board attached to the top and into that an arctic lemming was chiselling- “You are now crossing the arctic circle! Welcome to the Arctic!!!” As we passed they all waved and we waved back and carried on. Not quite as flashy as the equator and certainly no neon lights but a friendly welcome nonetheless!!!
What’s more, Kimbra is now officially calling me an Arctic Loon, as opposed to the common variety found further south!!

Its good to be back at sea!!! Chilly but great to be making progress north!!
Hope everyone well,
Lot of love
McQueen
xxx

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2-5. Nome-Tuktoyaktuk (Canada)

Those whom the Examiner…6813 16802

It's been an uncomfortable but dream run so far. We're abeam Point Hope, nearly half way to Barrow in a bit over 2 days. The centre of the low went right over us – a blue sunny patch with cloud swirling around in a huge arc forming the perimeter of the patch. I think we are now in the lower right quadrant with SSW wind about 10 kts and poled out again heading for a waypoint off Cape Lisburne. Still 180 miles before we get to Icy Point, where Cook turned back from 'a wall of ice' in early August.

Sea temp was down to 4 deg earlier – now at 5. Vis about 2 miles in light mist – the up-sun cloud looks black and sinister but it isn't really and anyway, it's gone past us. Nothing to report otherwise – comms still flaky and not able to send through saimail. Was strange hearing Kiwi voices from Taupo loud and clear giving the forecast for Chatham Island at the other end of the earth – probably the same people Pete and I were talking to 3 years ago.

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2-5. Nome-Tuktoyaktuk (Canada)

Iridium back 6934 16453

May be only temporary – reconfigured whole shebang from first principles ans seems to work. Amodino around Barrow – no ice – 20 knot headwind and 1 knot adverse current. So that's what the Examiner is preparing – I have been concerned all along about that easterly and it's not going to be easy. Seems to blow continuously.

Otherwise, all ok – cold and damp, foggy, misty but more or less on course @ 5 kts.

Love yez all.

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2-5. Nome-Tuktoyaktuk (Canada)

K: A user-friendly watch!

Just finished a nice watch. Firstly, it's stopped raining so stuff can stop getting wetter. Then, the wind shifted in our favour so we lifted back up onto course and are sailing nicely towards Pt Barrow 200 NM away. Got a glimpse of land through the murk, and a satphone call from our friends on Amadino up ahead – they've made it around Pt Barrow with no problems from the ice! Fingers crossed for us. Alex managed to get the iridium modem talking again (bonus!), and just as good, pulled in a grib showing favourable winds will continue for us. Touch wood, all looking smiley for the next day or so.

To round things off, I've been doing some water management: squeezed some Chukchi Sea to drink, mopped down the condensation that's starting to collect on the un-insulated bits of the cabin and sponged the bilges (lots of water in there, not so good).

A good morning's work, so now to bed. Night!

K.

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2-5. Nome-Tuktoyaktuk (Canada)

Another of those decisions 6950 16420

We’re trickling along in the foggy foggy dew at about 3.5 kts, so Barrow in 2 days AGW. The latest GRIB predicts a nice westerly around about then. Do we burn some precious diesel to make sure we get there in case the GRIB is right? Or do we trickle along, save fuel and take a punt that we really will get there in 2 days? Instinct says burn, baby, burn – will cost us a lot more fuel if we miss the westerly.

So – if we’re going to burn, when? Best when going slowest to get max miles per litre. Now poled out and still trickling but a smidge faster.

Noice to see the lat/long co-ordinates changing in the right direction as last. 164 degrees of longitude does seem to be a large number.

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2-5. Nome-Tuktoyaktuk (Canada)

K: Another day in paradise

2300: Came on watch and made a hot drink.
2305: Burnt tongue on hot drink.
2310: Walked to the pointy end. It's still there. Practised Titanic pose and counted jelly fish.
2315: Decided sea is more inky green coloured than inky blue.
2320: Walked back to the other end.
2325: Clouds not too threatening, so got bird book out. Think we've been seeing lots of Northern Fulmars.
2330: Wind dropped out altogether. Adjusted course and furled headsail.
2335: Checked chart and wrote blog…

I wonder what will happen in the next 90 minutes?

K.

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2-5. Nome-Tuktoyaktuk (Canada)

And then I had this nasty thought 7002 16345

If the wind does come around to the west it will blow all the ice back inshore. No choice really – we’re burning diesel – westerly due in a bit over two days and we gotta be up there. Would be massively disappointing to get stuck, even for a short time, on the wrong side of the point. Does mean that we will have to refuel at least once before Cambridge unless the Examiner goes on holiday. Anyone care to take her to the south of France for a couple of weeks? And chain her to a lamp post.

I’m reading a book Pat gave me about a man who lived in Barrow in the late 1800s and early 1900s and spent a lot of time out with the Eskimos. Quite fascinating to be passing Cape Lisburne and reading about his trip around it in skin boats and sledge and the cliffs alive with birds. The book is called Fifty Years Below Zero by Charles Brower, NY Dodd, Mead & Co, 1942 and probably long out of print but worth looking for if you are interested in what it was like to live here before it was taken over by the gold miners, the whalers and the missionaries. Thanks Pat!

Much later 0045 Nome time, 0845 UTC at 7018 16257 – another try to connect with sailmail. Still burning diesel…still no sailmail…back to iridium…

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2-5. Nome-Tuktoyaktuk (Canada)

McQ: Deranged but the birds are real!!

Hello everyone!!
It's 0330 am but it could equally be 1530!!
We have just passed our Icy Point waypoint and I am pleased to report there is no ice here to hinder progress. Just inside us to the east is the Blossom Shoal- so named, Big A thinks, after the ship 'Blossom' that 'discovered' them!!! I am not so pleased to report that there is no wind here either… and it looks like that for another 12 hours, then light southerlies inshore (BIG southerlies further offshore- good news for blowing ice out of the way!!!) then lightish westerlies forecast at the moment for a few days time… we have 123nm to Barrow so hopefully we can get there and round the corner, with a bit of iron sail assistance at the moment, before any westerlies blow ice back in… never before has turning a corner been so fraught and nerve-wracking, I don't think!!!
There are lots of crazy birds circling about overhead, squawking away. Its quite weird. They are not LFP's or puffins or dodos or emus or pelicans or indeed any other bird I recognise but I am, however, adamant that they are real!!
I had forgotten how deranged 24 hour daylight can make you feel sometimes!!
Hope everyone well.
Lots of love,
McQueen
xxx

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2-5. Nome-Tuktoyaktuk (Canada)

Of Cook and sun and sealing wax 7033 16143

I’m not sure of the exact latitude, but I think that for the first time in my life and certainly in Berri’s, we are both beyond the limits of the globe reached by Cook. A moment for pause and contemplation. Or Consultation. On his way back from here to Hawaii and history, he called in somewhere on the Russian coastline, perhaps at C Dezhneva, where he met a party of Russians and he gave them a package of his charts and despatches for the Admiralty and asked them to do what they could to forward them. The package reached London many months later, possibly after Cook himself was dead. Those papers still exist, probably at Greenwich – I wish they had the (almost certainly canvas and oilskin)wrapping and seals as well. What a story they could tell! Don’t assume, Whitters – find out when we actually get somewhere. One for MJC, perhaps?

107 miles from Barrow – this time tomorrow AGW. Then the real business will begin – this rather large pedestal we have constructed since April has been designed to get us up to here and launch us eastwards. We’ll miss the eclipse and probably any chance of a rendezvous with the HMP people but I intend to call them when we get around the corner to find out when they will be leaving. I reckon we are about a month away from Beechey if everything goes perfectly and the Examiner is still chained to that lamp post. We have used about 40 litres of diesel so far – about 10% of our load, with another day of certain motoring to Barrow. A bit of a punt, but so far it’s looking like a good one.

Again for the first time in my life that hasn’t been grey and overcast, the sun almost didn’t set – it was actually just below the northern horizon last night but reflecting off the low cloud and fogbanks and giving the cloud and rolling fog a deep red inner glow, like the inside of a furnace. It was so vivid that I broke out the Nik and recorded it – would love to send it to you to share the moment, but think wonder and quiet pleasure and Berri happily tooling along poled out (we actually sailed for about 3 hours!)and you’ll get the idea.

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2-5. Nome-Tuktoyaktuk (Canada)

…of breaching whales and strings…7054 16014

..of mucous? I remember reading in Sydney that biologists follow whales off the coast and collect bits of skin and other material the whales leave behind every time they surface. For about an hour during my last watch, there were whales breaching all around the horizon – looked like humpbacks but I don't know enough about other species to discriminate. We sailed through a spot where a very big one had been and sure enough, lots of frothy, rather greasy looking bubbles, flakes – more like little mats of perhaps skin and long strings and skeins of mucous like substance. I was not expecting it else would have tried to retrieve some.

And a whale spout in silhouette is just a grey column – hangs around for much longer that I would expect – but a spout with the sunlight reflecting from it is something special – stark white to begin with, then as it spreads and dissipates, a shower of diamonds falling through silver mist. Lovely – and out here, a century ago, deadly for the whale. Charlie Brower's descriptions of the whalers and the hundreds of ships are cause for admiration of the men and mostly Eskimo women who hunted the whales along the edges of the ice – and deep sadness that the whales are now so scarce. A bowhead was worth a fortune to the catcher – think corsets – and I wonder whether any of the women who wore them and the men who expected them to do so – had any idea of the hardship and awfulness that killing whales for the baleen that made the whalebone for the corset actually involved. The bowhead was saved by the invention of plastics (I think).

There's a deep grey green blue Chinese jade – not very common – that's the Chukchi sea today. I've never seen the sea as flat and glassy as it was this morning even in the tropics. We have a bit of breeze now, on the nose again, but useful to help the motor along. AGW, a lift this arve if the GRIB is right and Point Barrow tomorrow morning. Pete, we drank one of yours for the Arctic Circle, Steve, one of yours for the whales. Nooice!

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2-5. Nome-Tuktoyaktuk (Canada)

HF radio - SSB if you live in Alaska 7058 15949

It seems that our HF may not be transmitting – it’s an ICOM M802 with an ATF130 tuner and a pactor 11pro controller. It receives weather faxes ok and I heard Taupo a couple of days ago but it won’t connect to sailmail and I have not been able to talk to Amodino, only about 300 miles away, or Cambridge Bay, about 1100 miles or hear either of them. I’ve checked the external connections to the backstay and all seem ok – the microphone appears to be working and the set indicates that it is transmitting. I will look at the internal connections from backstay to tuner next. Anyone got any ideas as to where to go after that? Please keep it short if you have – I’ll have to pull it in by iridium. Thanks.

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2-5. Nome-Tuktoyaktuk (Canada)

ICE! 7059 15944

There are BIG ice floes all around the NW horizon. Brilliant in bright sunshine. WOOOOOHOOO! Seems we’re here. May not be good news, of course but we’ll see. And we’re sailing again. Expecting Barrow tomorrow morning. Have just spoken to Pascal on Devon – they think the weather will be too bad for them to see the eclipse – sad. And we will certainly miss them but I have arranged to leave some beer at Beechey if we get there – carefully hidden! Now for a Consultation.

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2-5. Nome-Tuktoyaktuk (Canada)

McQ: Ice

And now came both mist and snow
And it grew wondrous cold
And ice, mast high, came floating by
As green as emerald

A somewhat appropriate verse to have reached last night I think!!! Except there's no mist, or snow, yet, thankfully!!!

How exciting!!!! I so, so, so hope we can get round the corner!!!
Lots of love,
McQ
xxx

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2-5. Nome-Tuktoyaktuk (Canada)

Still on the nose 7116 15737

Approaching Point Barrow – fog – was pink as sun dipped below the horizon. No ice in sight but now need for constant lookout. GPS trip log from Sydney reads 7635 miles – probably a bit low as it has not been on continuously. Expecting to turn the corner about 1700 UTC but no doubt the Examiner has cut her chains and is lurking.

Speeds – nothing heard from you or anyone else – I assume these are getting through.

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2-5. Nome-Tuktoyaktuk (Canada)

K: Fog

I hate fog, hate fog, hate fog, hate fog, hate fog, hate fog, hate fog.

Guess what? It's foggy!!

We're currently nearly almost rounding the top of Pt Barrow. "Nearly" because Ray the autopilot decided to tack the boat while Alex was putting a reef in the mainsail, so we're currently headed straight for the shoals. Ta Ray. Another couple of short tucks should do it.

Yesterday when we were cruising along with blue skies, glassy seas and wildlife all around, I had this lovely vision of rounding the top in similar conditions and being able to watch the point go by. Not quite like that today. There's a short choppy wind-against-current sea and a pea souper sky!! I did briefly glimpse land about an hour ago in a clearer patch. It looked surprisingly like Carnac Island and the Straglers back home. Only foggier.

K.

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2-5. Nome-Tuktoyaktuk (Canada)

K: We're around the top!

Wooo hooooo! Just passed north of Pt Barrow. 71deg 25min 33sec N and 156deg 28min 22sec W at 0748 Alaksa Daylight Time 28/7. The sun is even shining through the fog to celebrate with us.

The plan is now to head on to Tuk, 470 NM away to the east, where we will wait and see what happens with the ice further ahead towards Cambridge Bay. Fingers crossed, next stop Canada!

K.

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2-5. Nome-Tuktoyaktuk (Canada)

So this is what they meant...7128 15534

And just around the corner – lucky break – a clear patch and ice all around the horizon. Not a lot, but big, thick floes – the charts would call it open water – easy to navigate until – enter the Examiner, stage left – really thick fog, vis less than 50 metres and big lumps of ice all around. Trickling along under motor, Kimbra on the bow, McQ steering. According to the ice chart, we should gradually get past this stuff but it certainly concentrates the mind a bit. We are pointing directly at Tuk – or might be! there’s a big discrepancy between the boat GPS and the computer which gets its NMEA feed from the GPS. In theory, they should agree – seems they both have the same variation, WGS 84 datum so a mystery.

Much later, freckle well exercised – this fog and ice stuff is seriously scary. We were in about 2 tenths ice – easy – then without warning, about 5 tenths of big bergy floes with very narrow leads between them in vis of about 50 metres. No wind, luckily, else things might have been different, but we wormed our way out into some clearer water – them more big stuff and so it goes. And it’s almost worse when the fog clears for a brief moment and all you can see is apparently unbroken ice. One huge floe was breaking up as we passed – booming crashes as massive ledges of ice fell off into the water. A new noise for me – hope I don’t ever get to hear it without being abloe to see where it comes from. From the ice chart, we may have 100 miles of this. Quite tense but we’ll work our way through – one difficulty is that you don’t know where it is coming from so there’s no obvious way out.

Now at 7123 15432 after much snaky meandering at idle revs. Hope we’re through it before the westerly builds in a couple of days.

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2-5. Nome-Tuktoyaktuk (Canada)

McQ: Lots more ice, mist (fog) still no snow, phew!!

We’ve seen lots of ice now, big chunks, little chunks, bergy bits, bear shaped, whale shaped, old blue ice, gritty brown ice, snap, crackle and pop, melting ice, big thundering lumps calving from bigger lumps of ice… and all the while having to dodge them!!! As big A said, when the fog lifted it was almost as if it appeared to be a long strip of an ice wall ahead!! (It wasn’t, we discovered as we got closer, just the mind playing tricks and the low cloud creating a mirage of sorts) and you just need to go slow and carefully pick a route through- quite exciting really and when the fog lifted, the blue sky came out and highlighted the bright dazzling blue of the older lumps dotted about- pretty spectacular and quite something special really and as Kimbra said, we feel like we are properly in the Arctic now!!!
Woo hoo!!!!
Oh and we apparently saw a real, flying Arctic Loon in the sky (making a noise like a fog horn- wise bird, as it was indeed foggy!!)
Lots of seals too but no walri yet though…
Hope everyone had an exciting day too!!
Lots of love,
McQ
xxx

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2-5. Nome-Tuktoyaktuk (Canada)

Can't see the ice for the trees! 7116 15145

We’ve just hit a huge tree trunk at 7 knots. I was adjusting the genoa sheet and did not see the tree, just felt a big impact and a series of bumps with no obvious cause and then a 20 ft maybe 2 ft diameter log appeared astern. It will have blue antifoul all over it and I most fervently hope it missed the prop. We’ll find out soon enough. Fortunately, Berri’s hull could have been designed to minimise just such an impact. The waters around Alaska are full of driftwood of all sorts – Norton Sound with trees coming down the Yukon and up here there are several big rivers flowing north.

Good progress and I think there will be no more ice between here and Tuk – for a start, the water is now @ nearly 7 degrees – almost a warm bath for overworked freckles. Stunningly beautiful though brilliant blue translucent house sized lumps of old ice may be, they are best and most beautiful at a distance!

The Chukchi Sea turned from deep grey green jade to light pearly grey green at Point Barrow, then dirtyish grey over the shoals and now in the Beaufort we’re back to deep green.

Still no HF radio. Don’t know why – all seems ok.

H & K thanks for message – was feeling a bit like ET.

Later 1433UTC 7107 15041 now we’re in 30 kts from the west – no main, tiny heady, big short rolling sea. Again, good progess and 200 miles to Canada. Makes it hard to see the wood for the waves. Yuk. Life’s never dull out here.

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2-5. Nome-Tuktoyaktuk (Canada)

K: The hokey pokey

..We put the third reef in, we shake the second reef out, we do the hokey pokey then we gybe it all about…

Well, last night's rolling, roiling, bouncy bits have eased up and we're now pootling along in lightish winds with the headsail poled out on the other gybe. Heading towards Canada – 160 NM away – and still dodging the odd well-travelled tree. Sea still a bit sloppy, but when I think back on the last 24 hours – fog, rain, sun (woo hoo), motoring-calm, a 30 kt stonker, ice and trees – I'm not even going to try and guess what the next 24 are going to bring! Never a dull moment, it's been busy.

Tired but happy – I'm going to bed for an afternoon nanna nap.

Night all! K.

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2-5. Nome-Tuktoyaktuk (Canada)

Thank you time and into the goody bags

To everyone who sent us goodies in Dutch and Nome – I have had little packs of stuff hidden in various odd spaces and have now extracted shortbread fingers – thanks Gonzales – for morning tea, hot stuff from Carla’s bag (Butt paste not yet necessary…) and put the snickers away again. We need those for real emergencies. Dig boskets, Sue – last one went with marmelade yesterday and the smoked salmon kept me alive all the way to Nome. Izz, special dark offering still awaiting processing. And Pat and Dave B for books, Steve for your silver dollar, now on the magic wall. Judy for the satphone – Speedy for wearing his best purple frock for us and all y’all for your messages and huge support. I must have left out lots of people – never make lists like this – thanks to you too!

AGW, we will go to Tuk and at least refuel, although so far we have not used much. Amodino will be there tomoz and will fill up and go because they think the ice is ok in Dease Strait. We’ll check when we get to Tuk. List of Tuk jobs if we decide to wait there. We are 311 miles away and motoring again in the tail of the big low which seems to have come through a couple of days early – might blow past Devon in time to clear for the eclipse. We will be about 600 miles short of Cambridge Bay at Eclipse Time so will definitely miss it. Have spoken to Pascal and we’ve all got our appendages crossed for clear wx for them. Eleanor is in Resolute – I think – so clear there too please!

A floating lumber yard out here – huge trees every hundred metres or so and little lines of smaller stuff everywhere. At Cape Nome, I found two bits of silver birch on the beach that had been cut by beavers – somewhere up the Yukon.

And imagine if you will crusty old whaler 100 years ago in one of the hundreds of ships there would have been around here. He’s 150 feet up in the crows nest, cold, in what then passed for wet weather gear – if he was lucky he would have had Eskimo gear – ‘Thar she bloooows! Two points on the larboard bow, Captain, about 2 miles…’ and the ship jumps to life. Transfer said whaler to Berri’s foredeck in yesterday’s ice, sit him on a milk crate and give him my Mustang suit to keep warm and dry and a little mobile phone sized gadget with buttons on it and show him how to press the buttons and the boat alters course. ‘Now steer me through the ice and no more of this ‘two points stuff’!

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2-5. Nome-Tuktoyaktuk (Canada)

McQ: It's snowing!!

Its all pretty grey about tonight- ahead its dark bluey grey and behind is lighty grey and the sea is rippled steely grey… vis is fine, there is a definite horizon, everything is just different shades of grey!!
There is no wind at the moment so we are motoring towards Tuk, The grib shows no wind for here at the moment then building to 25-30 knots Westerly by this time tomorrow- After we got blasted by 33 knots of west early this morning, completely out of the blue and really no real warning, we though that what was shown on the grib for the next 48 hrs had blown through early. However, it is pretty accurate just now and there is a definite swell building and rolling in from behind, so I wouldn’t be too surprised if we are back in 30 knots of westerlies by tomorrow evening!! Oooh!!
Oh yes, I nearly forgot, its been snowing!!! Wet snow and too wet to lie, but great big slushy blobs of snowflakes nonetheless… cool! very cool!! Its back to rain now and I don’t think Kimbra, who is on watch now, believes me that it snowed at all in the last few hours!!!
Hope everyone well.
Lots of love
McQ
xxx
ps J’nie- happy birthday for tomorrow, while I remember!! I hope you have a fab day and everything goes to plan and you get everything you wished for!!! And I hope the pressie from Nome has arrived and that you like it!!! I’ll be in touch and check in when we next get to land. Lots of love and birthday hugs, older, wiser sibling. xxx

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2-5. Nome-Tuktoyaktuk (Canada)

K: Situation Normal

That forecast westerly started rolling in just about as soon as Corrie "it's been snowing" McQ found her bunk. Trickles of wind started to show on the water, so I put the mainsail back up to try and get some wind propulsion happening. As soon as I found my bunk, Alex put three reefs into said mainsail, and the next watch it was dropped altogether! So, we're now back to running downwind with a tiny hankie of headsail poled out, and the sea is building a bit behind us. Oh – and it's very cold. Extra socks, gloves and balaclavas all round.

Yesterday's floating lumber yard has thinned out for a bit, but we nearly collided with a seal who chose the wrong time and place to surface as we were hooning down a wave. Luckily he/she took evasive action and dived again so we missed each other.

Something else interesting that I noticed in yesterday's calm and rain. The rain drops didn't "dissolve" as soon as they hit the ocean surface. The temperature/density difference between the rain and sea was enough that the drops hung around on the surface like beads of water on oil. Nifty.

Today's shade of grey: silver-grey (the sun came out for a bit and most beautiful all the lumpy shining wavy grey was).

K.

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2-5. Nome-Tuktoyaktuk (Canada)

McQ: Hankies

..And then the wind built, and we put away a little more of our headsail hankerchief- not just any amount, you understand, but a carefully chosen and precisely measured headsail hankie was furled away, to leave a leprechaun sized hankie (thats a relatively small amount incase anyone thought otherwise!)and the wind stayed fairly constant for a bit at 28-30 knots true. The seas were building and even with our mere leprechaun sized hankie we were barrelling along at 7.5knots in the bright sunshine!! Then the first of a row of thick grey clouds catches us up from behind, so I put away some more headsail, leaving a tinkerbell sized hankerchief piece at the front, and the wind builds- 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36 and stays there!! And we are still barrelling along and the sea is still building!!! (Almost) every time we go over a particularly big wave Ray loses his GPS data feed when we fall in the trough and he beeps frantically at us to let us know he doesn’t have a clue which way he’s supposed to be going!! Fortunately seconds later we get to the crest and he remembers his course and stops beeping!!! The biggest sustained gust I have seen in the last couple of hours is 39 knots true wind- which I think is the most wind I can remember seeing since leaving Oz!!! Boy am I glad we aren’t beasting into this!!! And its very very cold!!
Lots of love
McQ
xxx

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2-5. Nome-Tuktoyaktuk (Canada)

7022 14244 this wasn't in the plan!

McQ said it all except that we are now hand steering. I have seen sustained gusts of 40+ and some huge breaking waves. Southern ocean stuff – not in the brochure for up here. Another 36 hours of it according to the grib. Still no hf.

H tks for relay gust bk msg, Izz, just had goonish scoff. Ta.

Now going to take heart in mouth and try to send this by iridium. Have to take whole system down to do so so always a bit grey knuckle when try to bring it up again.

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2-5. Nome-Tuktoyaktuk (Canada)

Update via Isabella

Just had a call from Alex (18.35 UK time) who wants to update here
without unplugging all the wires. They crossed into Canada about 100
miles back and are having a challenging time, handsteering in 20 – 40
knots. Aiming for Tuk tonight, or early tomorrow am and will stay
there about 2 – 3 days. All well, but cold and wet. “That’s Canada for
you,” Alex said.
Posted by Isabella, Alex’s sister

2-5. Nome-Tuktoyaktuk (Canada)

K: Oh Canada!

We've crossed the border and entered Canadian waters. Actually, we did so about 10 hours ago, late last night, but things only calmed down enough to swap the courtesy flags over this morning. I did get a brief glimpse of Canada a couple of hours ago – purple-grey mountains with snow. Inspiring. Wish the rain would stop so we could see more of them!

Fairly frustrating night's sailing. The wind came around on the beam so we had to drop our nice stable poled out hankie and put the main back up for some sloppy reaching. The sea is very confused, with swell running in two directions, about 90 deg to each other. We've been lurching and rolling around as the wind dropped down, picked up, shifted a bit, etc, etc, etc. If Huey is out to make our lives miserable, he's succeeding! Anyway, we changed the sail plan after changing flags, so we're now backed to a pole out hankie, no mainsail, and lurching along at 5 kts in the right direction.

97 NM until we reach the first lead mark into Tuk. Then another 40 miles up the leads through the shallows. But in the grand scheme of things, we're getting close to that hot shower. And the boat to-do list is getting longer too. Ray the autopilot seems to have chucked a semi-permanent wobbly. Will find out when things calm down a bit. In the meantime we're still hand-steering (ye gads! how primative).

Chicken cup-a-soup and a muslie bar for breakfast. We've eaten all the easy-to-reach instant noodles.

Today's shade of grey: damp smudged newspaper. Ick.

K.

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2-5. Nome-Tuktoyaktuk (Canada)

McQ: Yesterday's whale... aaargh!!!

So I think I have sufficiently recovered from yesterday’s traumatic events to tell you all about it… We were taking it in turns driving for two hours at a time- a bit of a relentless experience, to say the least, in 40-45 knots of wind. Anyway I was on deck and helming- and we are hooning along over these enormous great waves, coming from all angles, a really big confused sea, as you can imagine, was testing my patience… anyway, heard the roar of the next wave behind as it broke and braced myself at the tiller for the tumble of crashing wave behind us. It lifted us up and as we started to slew round I counteracted with the helm- for a split second there was a little bit more resistance than I had expected- but enough for me to think ‘Crikey, I hope we haven’t hit anything!!’ Went back to concentrating driving over that particular wave, just then our stern was picked up by the wave, but something didn’t sit right in my brain- we were being lifted out of the water at the stern at a greater speed and steeper angle than the surrounding seaway. I glanced around to confront possibly the most scary thing ever!!!- our stern was resting on the nose of the most enourmous bluey grey whale, wider than Berri, who’s back was fully out of the water and him and us are zooming through this wave together… As most people know, I am not a big fan of getting close to animals, let alone, big animals, and my word you don’t get much bigger or closer than this- Berri’s cockpit isn’t exactly big and I could almost have reached out and touched him… being a cool, calm and collected sort of individual, I screamed!!! and screamed!!! fortunately it was blood curdling enough for the whale to make a hasty retreat backwards and unfortunately for Big A, think I frightened the living daylights out of him- he looked about as white as I probably looked when he opened the flap at the top stormboard to see what on earth was going on!!!
I don’t think we drove over him, I think he just caught up with us down the wave, and nudged us by mistake, I just hope he wasn’t hurt!! I am really, really sorry Mr Whale if I hurt you- please don’t be angry. I can’t help but think about Pat’s angry whale story and I would hate to have a big whale out there out to get me!! I have never seen anything quite like that though and hope never to again!!!!
Things calming down outside all the time now and getting close to Tuk- wooo-hooo!!! Canadian waters!!! yippee!!!
Still hand steering as Ray has had a nervous breakdown- we’re to close to the pole for him, he likes the tropics and had a tantrum, hopefully we’ll coax him out of it towards the Atlantic, with promises of going south!!!
Lots of love
McQ
xxx

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2-5. Nome-Tuktoyaktuk (Canada)

Some observations on a damp and slow day 7009 13651

There are Arctic Terns swirling around the boat and making tern noises – a high pitched rather squeaky squeeerky cheep. They have come a long way around the world – ever further than us. The GPS reads 8080 miles so far.

Tomorrow is Eclipse Day. With a bit of luck we will be tied up in Tuktoyaktuk – Tuk to its friends, so tucked up might be better. We will be 600 miles short of actually being under the path of totality which starts at Cambridge Bay and about 1200 miles short of Beechey. Not our year – there’s no way we could have made CB even though I think we left Nome within an hour or so of exactly the right moment and have made astonishingly fast time to here. We needed Barrow open at least 10 days earlier and no sustained northerlies for it to have worked. However, I still think that it was a neat idea, as we all did in the bar in Baton Rouge last October and there are still lots of just as important things to achieve – we have to follow the dotted line on Pascal’s chart and see whether we really do end up in the UK, perhaps with a visit to Beechey. This would complete a transit of the NW Passage and it would wrap the circumnavigation Pete and I started on August 20 2005 when we left Falmouth for Hobart. IFF we can get that one together, Berri would become one of very few, if any, boats that have circumnavigated via both Cape Horn and the NWP. Not strictly in accordance with Hoyle, as the 2 circs would share the Falmouth – Hobart leg, but each complete in itself. Interesting thought, but there’s a lot of water and ice to be negotiated before that can happen.

And an absorbing trip from Nome – history, lifetime special moments in the Bering Strait, Point Barrow not seen in the fog, then ice and fog and sunlight all together – still ethereal and not quite believable, yet it happened and I was certainly frightened by the possibilities. Seals, birds, jelly fish (how do they survive in icy waters?)and McQ hit a whale and I hit a tree. And three days of grey, drizzly cold damp westerlies that have blasted us across the Canadian border almost to Tuk. In marketspeak, challenging sailing, dead downwind in very big breaking waves with sometimes over 40 kts up the chuff. Seems to be easing now.

Lots of jobs to do in Tuk – the last few days have worked poor old Berri pretty hard.

Later 7005 13522
Have finally made contact with Peter Semotiuk in Cambridge Bay on the HF. Yeeehaaa. He says there is no ice at CB and it’s breaking up to the east and north. Fingers crossed and back to appendages as well all y’all.

Next day – 6950 13332 and the eclipse has been and gone. We’re motoring through the approaches to Tuk – about 5 miles west of the safe water mark at the entrance to the long channel. To get here, we crossed the mouth of the mighty Mackenzie River that runs across northern Canada. The water has just changed colour from deep muddy brown to the more usual rather dirty greenish jade. I think the muddy brown would be from way down inside Canada and mostly fresh water.

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2-5. Nome-Tuktoyaktuk (Canada)

Tuk lovely Tuk 6929 13304

We’re just motoring towards the eastern entrance to the Harbour. Amodino is still here, so we’ll go and park alongside them.

I don’t know whether there is a webcam…

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