FROM 2-8. Baffin Bay-Nuuk (Greenland)

72 47 19.8 – 076 31 12.4 Pond Life

Here I sit, in full party gear, glasses all fogged up, red headlight putting pink glow on keyboard. hove to spong in the middle of the entrance to Pond Inlet, 4 huge icebergs bearing down on us – and do they ever bear down! Each has massive bow wave and wash. Long story but we decided to try to get into Pond to find shelter and anchor for a bit but having headbanged big seas, nasty winds, freezing (almost) rain we found we couldn't get in against the tide and wind without redlining the engine – not my game, especially as we now have significant stern gland leak and new vibration that I don't like. So we're parked in this huge entrance.

Utterly gobsmacking scenery – too knackered to do it justice but imagine massive rounded mountains and valleys in deep black twilight silhouette just visible below the grey rolling cloudbase – but clear the other side with stark white backlight reflecting off the high glaciers so intensely that it seemed to be solid like the whitest icing – and each rounded top has a dusting of snow just like on a chocco sacher torte. Great slab sided glacial moraines instead of beaches. A hell of a night – desperately need sleep but worth every minute for this. Other 2 sleeping, my turn next.

Must go check the icebergs – may have to do a bit of bare poling to get out of the way of the biggest one. Need a grib so will try to send this.

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