FROM 2-14. Cape Town-Kerguelens

An afternoon at the zoo.

Ferals – a whale! I saw what I thought might have been a spout about 500 metres away, 3-4 metre swell, 10 kts breeze. Waited and definitely saw the next one and the next with glimpses of body between swells. The spouts were flattish and seemed to be angled – could not establish direction of travel and so possible slant angle of spout. Then it sounded – away from us – spout angle could have been leftwards indicating sperm whale but flukes were rounded at the tips, unlike pictures in the handbook so some doubt.

And a big albatross soared serenely past – and they always seem just a bit scornful – one glimpse only and possibly one of the Royals. Waited for ever with the Nik at the high port but it didn't come back. Groups of Prions in the offing.

Little gaggles of dancing Storm Petrels (Wilson's again and probably Black Bellied) – so fragile yet so wonderfully adapted.

Scrofulous old farts smelling quietly amongst themselves as they await cleansing visit and Consultation with Dr G. Iodine, quinine and vitamin C plus psychological uplift all in the one – well, maybe 2 – medications. OF A has just put pole on – taken it off again – gybed and monitoring correct point for Kerguelen. Sweaty business. Grib has been remarkably accurate for last few days.

Water distinctly greenish. VoA noticeably increasing – water temperature now 17 deg.

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