Departed Port aux Francais 0800 UTC january 28th 3123 miles to Maatsuuyker. I will use this for DMG until we get there…
Hooning in 25 kt westerly – just leaving the Baie du Morbihan.
More later
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2-15. Kerguelens-Hobart
TrackLogs ( 95 )By Berrimilla on January 28, 2010, at 2204 UTC
Departed Port aux Francais 0800 UTC january 28th 3123 miles to Maatsuuyker. I will use this for DMGDistance Made Good; More here until we get there… HooningAs far as I can gather, if Berri were a horse, she’d have the bit between her teeth to be hooning in 25 kt westerly – just leaving the Baie du Morbihan. More later By Berrimilla on January 28, 2010, at 2338 UTC
First, you need to know that in Kerguelen, and probably all over France, they drink their breakfast coffee out of pudding bowls – half litre size. Second, conventional table manners are for the conventional. It's fair go to mix whatever you like in your coffee – cornflakes, cream, honey, sugar, the works. Scene at breakfast this morning – my lean, hook nosed hollow cheeked scrubby bearded friend who, with a bandanna would be perfectly cast in "Pirates 4" or whichever mixes a devils mix of black coffee, honey, milk, sugar and cream in his bowl – looks like baby poo by the time he has finished. Then he cuts a foot long length of bread from a french stick, slices it in two lengthwise, smears in in butter until every last square millimetre is covered. Then he spreads Nutella (for the uninitiated, a sort of soft chocolatey spread based on hazel nuts) all over it with the same concentrated care. Then, with enormous relish, he dips one end of a slice into his poo coloured coffee bowl just long enough to soak it but before it goes completely mushy and loses its structural integrity – and bites off the end, wipes the dribbles off his chin with great delicacy and repeats until all gone. Wonderful – I must try it when we get home. And the eerie. I went for a walk this morning while we were waiting to be ferried out to Berri and visited the chapel. It's rigged inside just like a catholic one, but it is accepted simply as a place where people can go to commune in their own private way. Poignant memorials inside, some very personal. Outside, about 50 yards away, there is a lovely statue of Our Lady of the Winds. Under the pillars that form the arch of the porch there's an old blackened bronze bell with a short braided rope attached to the clapper. The bell swings in the wind and the clapper grates on the ring it hangs from inside the bell. I was looking from the arch to the statue and the bell started to grate and resonate – perfect movie SFX for the spirits of the dead – the ghost of the Ancient Mariner at my elbow. Seals – they are everywhere, lying around in gross floppy heaps, some moulting, which makes then really ugly – they bark and the elephant seals snort. And they get around by undulating their bodies from front to back and pushing with their tails. But only 10 metres or so at a time and then they expire with a massive exhalation into a flaccid heap and rest for a couple of minutes. The King penguins are just finishing their moult – some are still scraggly but the rest are sleek and beautiful. Prions, Cape Petrels, a couple of Skuas and a big albatross, Kerguelen a hard crenellated edge 10 miles away in the haze and advancing cloud around the setting sun. And we're pointing at Australia. More later. By Berrimilla on January 29, 2010, at 1333 UTC
Massive thank you to all our friends in Port aux Francais – for tolerating our awful French, for your much better English, for telling us about all the fascinating science that's going on there, for the trip of a lifetime around the Baie in L'Aventure in wonderful company and for generally enriching the lives of a couple of dozy old farts who blew in for a shower and a glass of milk to drop their false teeth into. Special thanks to Nathalie Deschamps for being such a cool Chef du District and to Renaud Huez who took us in hand and looked after us so well, and to Frank for the trip around the Baie. And to the cuisiniers, for all the goodies – we have bread, cheese, fruit, cold chook, coffee, sugar and an industrial chunk of chocolate It's about a foot square and three inches deep with nuts – yay! – and we only got half the bar. When I was a kid at boarding school, we used to get chocolate in lumps that had been hacked off a huge block too – takes yer back a bit! I discovered why the scientists at least have better English than our French. One of our friends was studying for an exam next week and he had Feynman's lectures open on his desk – in English. It seems most academic textbooks that are written in English are too expensive to translate. Could not have dreamed of a better start. Apart from a little contretemps with a big patch of kelpTypes of brown algae, which hold on to the rocky sea bottom with root-like structures. Floats in huge mats close to land and potentially capable of fouling a propeller or a rudder. More here (Wikipedia) which took a fancy to KevvoStainless steel self steering device, built by Kevin Fleming, used on Berrimilla and countless others, no problem getting out. I borrowed an idea from CookBritish explorer, navigator, cartographer, and captain in the Royal Navy. He made 3 voyages to the Pacific Ocean, during which he achieved the first recorded European contact with the eastern coastline of Australia and the Hawaiian Islands, and the first recorded circumnavigation of New Zealand. More on wikipedia., who climbed Endeavour Hill in Cooktown to try to see a way through the Barrier Reef-- As a verb – to shorten sail, to use reefing lines or other techniques to make the working part of a sail smaller and so reduce its power as the wind rises. --- As a noun, (1) the part of the sail that has been shortened, folded or rolled. May be referred to as a slab or a slab reef which is a particular way of forming a reef. -- As a noun (2) – a bank of coral, rocks or other obstruction usually close to a shoreline and potentially dangerous to sailors. after they had careened and repaired Endeavour. I climbed the hill at Port aux Francais and found a gap in the kelpTypes of brown algae, which hold on to the rocky sea bottom with root-like structures. Floats in huge mats close to land and potentially capable of fouling a propeller or a rudder. More here (Wikipedia) that gave us a shorter sail out of the bay and lined up a transit and off we went. And it worked. Lovely night, poled out, 2 reefs, hooningAs far as I can gather, if Berri were a horse, she’d have the bit between her teeth to be hooning under a three quarter moon, 20 kts from the west – rolling a bit – some signs of Examinatorial perturbation to the north west but the gribWeather files. Graphics in Binary file: GRIB files associate a specific weather datum (eg wind velocity or atmospheric pressure) with a geographic position. Because the resulting file is a collection of these points they are extremely small and so ideal over slow links such as sailmail. says – well, it does – that all should be reasonably cool and froody for the next couple of days. I shall only believe that in hindsight…and there is a nasty low forming in the NW in that couple of days. We'll see. Poitrel Jack, if you are reading this, you need at least a 2 inch drain in each corner of the cockpit. Heavy duty flex hose to through-hull valves with venturis on the the outside to stop water flowing into the cockpit. Much more efficient than bungs. Happy to talk when we get back. Good luck! By Berrimilla on January 29, 2010, at 1343 UTC
Pete had a ship on AISAutomatic Identification System. An automatic tracking system used on ships and by vessel traffic services (VTS) for identifying and locating vessels. during the night – he says it stayed with us, about 12 miles south, for a while and then disappeared. Odd. Sea Shepherd and its Japanese shadow are down here somewhere so perhaps one of them. Cape Petrels, prions, dark petrels that look bigger that the white chins, the occasional Storm Petrel and several albatrosses – a few black browed and at least 2 very big ones. The water is 10 deg and definitely green. I’ve been sitting in the cockpit in my dry suit in the sunshine – it’s cold out there! I hope, pace the ExaminerShe who asks awkward questions of the crew and tests them with difficult tasks., that we are now heading gradually north directly towards Maatsuuyker. Our furthest south, just off the Baie, was 4934 – we are now at 4915. Time will tell. A bit more on Kerguelen – we were able to contribute a tiny speck to the place – one of the young researchers had spent quite a lot of money on a camera to record his stay on the island. On his first field trip, he found himself unexpectedly up to his armpits in water and his camera was drowned. I offered him my spare one that I seldom use and he’s a happier boy. And my albatross photos found a home there too. Not sure whether my French was up to the detail but there are a lot of rabbits – I think I heard 18 million – fewer cats and a lot of rats and there’s a queasy balance between them all to the detriment of the original inhabitants and the natural vegetation. One species of introduced brown trout is gradually taking over all the rivers from all the other introduced fish. There are invasive insects (aphids?) which are also vectors for viruses. There are sheep and a species of what I think are caribou. We have some good contacts who, I suspect, would like a chance to visit Australia and collaborate, so if there’s anyone out there working on similar ecological or biological projects (SW – UoW?) or perhaps schools who would like to be put in touch, let me know. By Berrimilla on January 29, 2010, at 1825 UTC
Position 0630 29th 4911 07310 trip 130 (22.5 hrs) DMGDistance Made Good; More here 103 Odd feeling having only open ocean between us and Tasmania. So beginneth act the umpteenth. Into the last of the baguettes, now about 24 hours old, with marmelade and a dose from Herself from Windhoek to wash it all down. Luxury unbounded – we were eking out the bikkies a bit before Kergs. Desolation Island – that's what it would have been called if CookBritish explorer, navigator, cartographer, and captain in the Royal Navy. He made 3 voyages to the Pacific Ocean, during which he achieved the first recorded European contact with the eastern coastline of Australia and the Hawaiian Islands, and the first recorded circumnavigation of New Zealand. More on wikipedia. had got there before Kerguelen. The early explorers tended to compare the lands they visited with the gardens and fields they were used to at home and missed the delicate diversity and the bleak beauty of places like Baie de L'Oiseau. The early settlers in Australia yearned for their rose gardens and lush grass and tried to plant them in the desert, completely ignoring the wonderful natural flowers and the astonishing adaptation of the vegetation and the animals. But desolate Kerguelen ain't – after all, it does have its own cabbage. Time for a coffee – filtered courtesy of the chef – and to attack the block of choc with a pickaxe. Yeehaaa! I'm wearing my Kerguelen hat – I went for a walk around the little bay at Port aux Francais amongst the seals, penguins and rotting kelpTypes of brown algae, which hold on to the rocky sea bottom with root-like structures. Floats in huge mats close to land and potentially capable of fouling a propeller or a rudder. More here (Wikipedia) screaming gulls and cormorants and took hundreds of photos. On the way I found two un-matched sneakers which i left there and a tea cosy fleece hat with ear flaps. Grotty, sandy smelling of aforesaid rot and bird poo. Took it home, rinsed it multi times till the water ran more or less clear and dried it on the radiator, to find it impregnated with the tiny sharp seeds that come from one of the (I think introduced) plants that grows everywhere. A bit prickly. The french call the seeds pics or perhaps piques as in piquant. So to work with the tweezers and I'm truly the old fart about the boonies now. Hey Dale – good to hear from you! The Bunger Hills sound interesting but I suspect it's a good deal colder at 75+ south than it was at 75 north – we'd need a heater. Glad we gave you an excuse for a scotch – our ears are burning – we have a drop of the Talisker and we're due for a small dose so keep your ear flaps tight and we'll cuss at you too. All the best for Axel Heiberg. By Berrimilla on January 31, 2010, at 1736 UTC
You awake Alex?…Yep! Bloody don’t want to be but I am. I’m warm – to the ends of my toes warm in my toasty minus 20 arctic bag which I keep unzipped from the knees up so that I don’t get stuck in it if we roll. I can hear the howl of the wind, the slat of the rain on the coachroof, feel the motion, a nasty corkscrew and I know beyond any denial, any rationalisation that I really really don’t want to get up. So I fumble for my clogs to keep my socks dry and contort myself to reach up for the handrail at fingertip height above my head and swing my legs over the bar holding the leecloth. Lurch and stagger as Berri cops a wave. Pete tells me the story of his watch as I hang on with one hand and put all the warm stuff away and shiver into the cold damp fleecy overall and thermal tops that go with wet weather gear and into the pants and then the jacket. For convenience and warmth, I’m using my Canadian flote coat – the jacket is almost runny wet inside – it leaks and, I suspect, was never meant for this stuff. Yeeark – my hands shrivel as they slide down the slimy tubes of the sleeves but it all warms up quite quickly – just damply uncomfortable. And balaclava, headlamp and out into the howling roar that is the cockpit. Cold, driving rain, wind chill savage, quick assessment and ease the sheet till the heady just starts to flog and haul in with all my strength on the furling line to get the thing to about half its already small size. Make it all fast again, the rain by now running down my face and into my collar. Back inside, jacket off, kettle on, hot sweet cuppa with Kerguelen bread and honey and go through it all again to tack (actually wear) the boat to get the wind on the other side as it goes from east to south to south west. Grey, not black out there, the moonlight just getting through. It’s only 35 knots but it’s an awful sea and you have to be here to appreciate the beauty of it all. We are just sitting it out, as comfortably as possible. No need to try to go anywhere, just keep the boat as unstressed as we can and wait. Remember Abe Lincoln – “And all this shall pass away…” I hope in about six hours. 3 hours later and definitely not yet – barometer 985 wind steady 35 gusting 40, almost freezing rain, sea building. Bleah! By Berrimilla on January 31, 2010, at 1746 UTC
This one's a real doozy. Not especially severe, 40-50 kts, but very nasty sea and sleet driving horizontally across the boat. The wind lifting the breaking crests and mixing them with the sleet. Wonderful colours if you can find the chutzpah to appreciate them – glassy green sea, glorious translucent iridescent green under the breaking crests where the light from the sky gets through (yep, we're looking up at most of them!), the crests themselves densely frothy with a greenish tint surging towards us and leaving acres of white feathery water behind them. Crashing blast of white beating thudding water as one occasionally breaks over the boat. Trickling flushing gurgle as it drains down every little gully above us. The usual wind streaks on the surface whenever it is smooth enough to see them. No fun out in the cockpit, where I've just been with the video cam. Small signs that it's dissipating – a bit of light through the soggy grey felt overcast, occasional lulls in the howl. The ExaminerShe who asks awkward questions of the crew and tests them with difficult tasks. is clearly punishing us for our temerity in coming this far south and visiting Kerguelen – she's got another one of these lined up behind this one, again to the north of us so we get the adverse and nasty bit at the bottom. Le bum of ze cochon – we are supposed to be in westerlies here. It's been so busy and beastly that I haven't yet written personal thank yous to the Kergulen mob. It will happen. Possible Macca session this evening our time – we'll do out best to describe it all but it's hard sustaining that sort of rather one sided conversation. Love yez all – enjoy your lattes in Sydney and your bacon and eggs in Blighty. Margaritas in Texas and scotch in Lake Placid. CoopersCoopers Sparkling Ale: - according to Alex: “brewed in the bottle, so a bit of sludge comes with it - best beer on the planet - beats a Pan Galactic Gargleblaster hands down”. Also a home brew from a Cooper’s Kit, perfected by onboard master-brewer Pete. See Pete’s interesting equation in Nome. We might just have a taste of the Talisker if this little troll ever rolls away. Could be soon – the barometer just clicked up two hectothingys and there's a hint of blue in the overcast. But still blowing 44 knots. Yickapooo! Sunlight – through a glass starkly but it's there! Big wave just broke over us but it's still there, even reflecting off the stanchionUpright support on the edge of the deck to carry lines or a safety rail I can see through the window. SJ, do you still you have the software to download tracks from the old Foretrex 201? Little green dinosaur. Nereida Jeanne – great news! Good to hear. By Berrimilla on January 31, 2010, at 1756 UTC
Position 0630 30th Day 2 from Kerguelen. 4847 07504 trip 103 DMGDistance Made Good; More here 70 – slowed us down a bit, that little nasty. Temperature inside 9 deg, outside a lot colder. Less that 48 hours out – great start followed by inquisatorial bashing with what looks like another to follow. I hope the seas have timer to subside a bit – it’s still blowing ephelaunts off chains but the barometer is rising fast. Big waves – it’s always when things seem to be dying down that it’s dangerous. Heading NE or where the wind takes us but basically north seems the go for an easy life. Consultative process seriously discombobulated by excess business with the ExaminerShe who asks awkward questions of the crew and tests them with difficult tasks.. I have just managed lunch – imagine, old fart in red and blue neoprene dry suit, strapped into wildly gyrating galley, wild waves cderashinjg against the windoew (as you can see, also with gloves on)inches from face, marrying a tin of smoked oysters, a slice3 of french loaF AND some mayo and getting the lot into the interior tubing – ever4y6t5hing moves with the boat, but in opposite directions tricky. Now I’ll see whether I can get iridium connected to send this. Then I shall Consult. ———- By Berrimilla on January 31, 2010, at 1806 UTC
The lull between the uglies. I’ve just got into full party gearFull wet weather gear – after sponging the grot from the bilges – and poled out the headsail (no main in this drop of the turbs). There’s a 30 kt easterly – at 48 south, an easterly! what’s the world coming to? – due tomorrow but it looks like a fairly narrow band on the gribWeather files. Graphics in Binary file: GRIB files associate a specific weather datum (eg wind velocity or atmospheric pressure) with a geographic position. Because the resulting file is a collection of these points they are extremely small and so ideal over slow links such as sailmail. so we are trying to use the remains of the last nasty to get us as far north as possible, way into the easterly band and if possible through it. We will have to see what happens but that’s the plan. Will be very interesting to compare the gribsWeather files. Graphics in Binary file: GRIB files associate a specific weather datum (eg wind velocity or atmospheric pressure) with a geographic position. Because the resulting file is a collection of these points they are extremely small and so ideal over slow links such as sailmail. with our track iff we get to Hoibart. bHeadbanging into 30 kts in these seas is not good karma, so we might just heave to and let it blow through. 24 hours lost, in that case. Macca seemed to go better this time. Now that we have sorted how the programme works, it’s easier to prepare. Hope it was worth the early rise. [The interview is here (mn 1:02 to 14:21)] There seems to be a bit of anxiety as to who is getting a Kergy envelope. If you asked for one, you will get one – but it’s not instant gratification as I’ve said before, they will leave Kerguelen on RV Marion Dufresne at the end of March and reach Reunion in April. After that, it’s regular snailmail. To all of you who have contributed to the iridium tin, many thanks. On Iridium, we are in the only bit of the world that I know of that is out of range of a SailmailSailmail is the system that Berrimilla uses for email communication. It is a non-profit association of yacht owners operating a network of private coast stations in the maritime Mobile Radio Service. station. We are roughly mid way between Maputo in Africa and Firefly in New South Wales and I haven’t been able to connect to either since before Kerguelen. Firefly is just showing on the propagationIn the logs, this refers to the radiation of signal energy and is customarily qualified by the words abysmal, ratshit or lousy screen and will slowly come into range but it’s been exclusively iridium for quite a long time. ———- By Berrimilla on January 31, 2010, at 1816 UTC
Sent the last 4 to wrong blog address – tks steve – resending with this one Position 0630 31s,t 4811 07741, trip 116, DMGDistance Made Good; More here 97. I seem to remember that we had it much easier last time. Poo! Still a bit busy out here – both into full TPS dry suit party gearFull wet weather gear to gybeGybe - A sailing term for turning the boat so that the stern passes through the wind. Potentially dangerous if not controlled because the wind can fill an uncontrolled mainsail from the wrong side and crash it across the boat, possibly causing damage to the rig and anyone getting in the way. the pole and optimise our course along the leading edge of the next front to try to ride it as far north as possible before the wind goes east. Just hoping the low doesn’t intensify until we get into the front of it rather than the bottom. more later By Berrimilla on January 31, 2010, at 1847 UTC
I have just re-sent a block of five blogs which I had mistakenly sent to the old blog address and I think they may have arrived in reverse order – they should make more sense if read as follows I will try to keep my mind on the job in future. Now where did I put my woolly hat with the pompom? And my coffee? On my head you say? The coffee? Phil W – AISAutomatic Identification System. An automatic tracking system used on ships and by vessel traffic services (VTS) for identifying and locating vessels. box is ICOM MXA 5000 receiver only, feeding into Software on Board (www.digiboat.com.au) in the laptop. We are changing the much travelled Kiwiprop for a new and slightly bigger one to go with new engine (Kiwi want the old one for analysis and display and they have generously subsidised the new one). Lorraine – good to hear from you – glad you are enjoying this bit of fluffery. FenwickA friend and clearly a colourful character, not sure whether it's alcoholic stupor or senility in your case. 12 bottles of scotch? Sue, sorry no pic of Pinkakerg in Kerg – all too busy avoiding kelpTypes of brown algae, which hold on to the rocky sea bottom with root-like structures. Floats in huge mats close to land and potentially capable of fouling a propeller or a rudder. More here (Wikipedia) and P had face to the wall anyway – doesn't like the killer whales the troops saw in the bay as we were leaving. MJC – don't know about the rats but I expect they all jumped off various ships – I can find out if you really want to know. By Berrimilla on February 1, 2010, at 1746 UTC
Position 0630 1st Feb, 4642 07909, trip 109, DMGDistance Made Good; More here 41 – just trying to get north but it all helps – a little game of chess with the ExaminerShe who asks awkward questions of the crew and tests them with difficult tasks.. I'll get another gribWeather files. Graphics in Binary file: GRIB files associate a specific weather datum (eg wind velocity or atmospheric pressure) with a geographic position. Because the resulting file is a collection of these points they are extremely small and so ideal over slow links such as sailmail. when I send this and we'll see perhaps what's in the bucket. Middle watch, 0200UTC As always, it's the waiting that gets to corrode the gut, this time subtly assisted by the cold, clammy, misty dim grey daylight outside as we wallow along in the last dregs of the previous system. For those who know, just like a claggy winter's day in England's industrial midlands but without the smoky smell. There's a front approaching slowly from the west with a tight little low forming to the north west. The low looks as if it could intensify into something way out past the 10 on the McQ Viciousness scale, but there isn't enough detail on our gribsWeather files. Graphics in Binary file: GRIB files associate a specific weather datum (eg wind velocity or atmospheric pressure) with a geographic position. Because the resulting file is a collection of these points they are extremely small and so ideal over slow links such as sailmail. yet to know much more than that it's out there. Meantime, the anticipation born of experience brews acid where honey would be noicerAlexism for quite a lot of things which taste good or are going especially well. So we wait. The plan is, as before, to get as far north as possible in these dreggy fillips of breeze, perhaps burn a bit of diesel if it really drops out and hope that we can get across the face of the low into the northerly stream and out of the 30+ knot-- Speed: definition of speed at sea. One knot is one nautical mile per hour. The nautical mile is about 1.15 % longer than the "statute" mile used on land. A knot is about half a metre per second. -- A knot is also the result of winding a rope around itself or another rope to make a join or a loop . easterly which is due down here. We shall overcome. 0630 – unusual sea – calm surface except for small ripples, almost no wind so the swell is obvious. Silver grey sky, reflecting from the surface so very difficult to judge swell height because it all looks flat – but it isn't. Probably about 5 metres, coming in from the west. We cracked the 11000 mile mark on the GPS odometer a couple of days ago, so there's a Talisker due but we have decided to postpone it until we have got past aforesaid Examinatorial discombobulation. Now at 11226, with 2828 to Maatsuuyker. Phil W again – the ICOM AISAutomatic Identification System. An automatic tracking system used on ships and by vessel traffic services (VTS) for identifying and locating vessels. box has its own separate VHFVery High Frequency radio. Short range radio equipment for voice and other applications such as AISAutomatic Identification System. An automatic tracking system used on ships and by vessel traffic services (VTS) for identifying and locating vessels.. aerial – works much better than a splitter. Disadvantage is that the aerial is on the pushpitThe railing around the deck at the stern of a yacht., so range is limited to about 25 miles. Usually enough – in the English Channel, it clogged the screen every couple of minutes. ———- By Berrimilla on February 1, 2010, at 1753 UTC
V. quickie – might not go through – I'm losing Iridium – intermittent com port problem – port disconnects during initial handshake – getting worse, don't know why. So if no comms for a week, don't stress – Firefly should be in range soon. Will try with backup computer and phone if this one really karks. SPBF By Berrimilla on February 1, 2010, at 1834 UTC
I may have found the Iridium problem. To use the phone to talk to sailmailSailmail is the system that Berrimilla uses for email communication. It is a non-profit association of yacht owners operating a network of private coast stations in the maritime Mobile Radio Service., you need to buy what is called the data kit – a fitting that clips on to the end of the phone and has a PCB inside it and an RS232 to USB cable to connect it to the computer. Intermittent problems are often just loose connections so – sure enough – the RS232 connector on the cable was loose and I applied some gentle screwdriver and held my breath for a test connection and it connected…If this one goes too I think I'm winning. GribWeather files. Graphics in Binary file: GRIB files associate a specific weather datum (eg wind velocity or atmospheric pressure) with a geographic position. Because the resulting file is a collection of these points they are extremely small and so ideal over slow links such as sailmail. shows low to NW tossing 35 knots from the NW at us tonight and dissipating and moving south tomoz. With a bit of luck we'll be far enough up its ugly face to pass through it before the sea has time to rise to the vicious. Cross 'em please And talking of ugly faces – the massive igneous extrusion on the south side of Baie de L'Oiseau had the Mt Rushmore face in it – I described it as lizardlike, I seem to remember. Nah! It's SlartyMegrathean planet designer from HHGTTGThe Hitch Hiker’s Guide to the Galaxy by Douglas Adams; essential reading for those trying to understand these logs. You may be none the wiser once you’ve read it, but at least you’ll have tried. More here whose favourite job was doing “the wrinkly bits in fjords”; He carved his face on the big rock above Baie de L’Oiseau in the Kerguelens., leaving us his self portrait for posterity and poncing it up like he's the Greatest. Which, of course, he is! On second thoughts, it may be one of his pupils with a sense of humour. Hey Carla! G'day! Ok – let's see whether this works… By Stephen on February 1, 2010, at 2033 UTC
The penultimate leg… Kurguelen through to Hobart. They are a long way south!
… but perhaps not that far south. This one shows the Rhumb LineSee wikipedia (Wikipedia). See also Great CircleSee here (Wikipedia)., or Great CircleSee here (Wikipedia) route, from Cape Town to Hobart. As you can see, the shortest way is not always the best. They are staying well north, both to catch the more favourable weather, and to stay a trifle warmer. Cape Town middle left, Hobart lower right, Antarctica that big white bit at the bottom.
By Berrimilla on February 2, 2010, at 0608 UTC
Bleah! We are hove to, drifting SW at 2 kts and sitting it out – can't headbang into it and the old heave sends us downwind (away from Australia) rather slower than bare polingExplanation here. Uncomfortable as we're beam on to the rising sea and rolling a lot and the occasional big one comes in from left field and crashes against the boat. Wind also rising and it's raining so we're all closed down and hoping to stay that way. At least another 12 hours before the thing dissipates if we can believe the gribWeather files. Graphics in Binary file: GRIB files associate a specific weather datum (eg wind velocity or atmospheric pressure) with a geographic position. Because the resulting file is a collection of these points they are extremely small and so ideal over slow links such as sailmail.. And there's another one behind this one. Looks like a headbang up to about 40S to get us out of here – tedious! My Iridium fix hasn't worked, unfortunately. The connection fails intermittently at the first attempt to open the port, which, I think, means that the computer is not reaching the phone. The problem is probably still somewhere in the data kit, which was never designed for these conditions. I think the phone itself will work so if the iridium connection to sailmailSailmail is the system that Berrimilla uses for email communication. It is a non-profit association of yacht owners operating a network of private coast stations in the maritime Mobile Radio Service. fails completely, I'll phone in a daily report until we are in HFHigh Frequency – usually refers to HF radio which is long range digital radio that Berrimilla used to send all but a few of the logs on both circumnavigations. The radio was connected via a Pactor 3 digital modem to Alex’s laptop and used the Sailmail software application called Airmail to send emails and pull in emails, weather and GRIB files. Airmail also supports Iridium satellite telephone messaging and Alex used this as backup when the HF radio died approaching England. radio range of Firefly in NSWNew South Wales. State in the East of Australia. New South Wales' capital city is Sydney.. By Berrimilla on February 2, 2010, at 1802 UTC
Position 0620 2nd 4556 07840, trip 60, DMGDistance Made Good; More here -37. Discouraging but could be worse. We're walking backwards to Christmas. Bleeah! It's a bummer out there. Still no sign of a let up except that the wind has dropped marginally. No real conjunction between what we have here and the gribWeather files. Graphics in Binary file: GRIB files associate a specific weather datum (eg wind velocity or atmospheric pressure) with a geographic position. Because the resulting file is a collection of these points they are extremely small and so ideal over slow links such as sailmail., but I've just been outside in the snake oil suit to put up the trisailA tiny storm sail that is set on the mast instead of the mainsail. Full explanation here and at least now we are going just a teensy bit to windward – north west instead of WSW. Otherwise, just the tedium of sitting it out. Just like a square rigger! But does anyone know whether this is an unusual series of systems – they seem to be upside down (the highs to the south) and the lows way further north than we expected? Looks as if we will have to work our way north in the gaps up to 40S at least. Anyway, I think I've got to visit the Surgeon Consultant – I feel the need for some basic medication. Somebody please make the appropriate incantation – go howl at the moon with an upturned colander on your head or whatever is necessary – and get us the westerlies we need. MJC, thanks for info and I'm in email contact with Kaharoa. They due into Hobart for a day this w/e. Iridium still intermittent – often takes several tries to connect. A bit nailbiting. By Berrimilla on February 3, 2010, at 0059 UTC
It's been a Charlie Brown day. The sort of day when Lucy took the ball away just as he finished his mighty run up to kick it and he whirled over flat on his back. Stood up, threw his head back and yelled AAAAaarrrrrghh! One of those days. when little things conspire to make life even more difficult, when we are wrapped first in too much wind from the wrong direction, going backwards, now in too little, in almost liquid fog that runs off everything. And the pasta was all starch – a gooey glutinous awful gluggy mess – almost uncookable in the boat – never seen it like that before. And…and…the list goes on. AAAArrrrrggghhh! Half an hour later – I tried to connect to Iridium to send this and see whether we have any mail and there's no dial tone. The computer has, once again, removed the iridium modem and substituted it's own internal version so another dreary system restore. Why does it do this?? aaarrrrggghhhh! By Stephen on February 3, 2010, at 0956 UTC
Last Sunday morning, 31st Jan, the boys had a chat via satphone to ABC Radio’s Macca on his show Australia All Over. The call went for about 14 minutes, and the mp3 version is here: It is big – about 8mb, and Berri is from 1:00 to 14:30. A very good chat about Kerguelen, both sounding as chipper as ever.
By Berrimilla on February 3, 2010, at 1744 UTC
Position 0630 3rd 4509 08009, trip 97, DMGDistance Made Good; More here 46, which includes making up the 37 we lost yesterday so an ok result. What a difference a day makes, to coin a cliche. Whoever did the upended colander Incantation for us got it right. We have the assymetric kiteSailors’ slang for a spinnaker up, hooningAs far as I can gather, if Berri were a horse, she’d have the bit between her teeth to be hooning, heading a bit too far north but we'll drop it when we get up to 45N and pole out the heady and point at Hobart. From aaaarrrggghhhh to Aaaaaahhhh! It's just like sailing across the bottom of a glass of milk – one of those crystal glasses with a pattern cut into the base – grey crinkled fluid glass, liquid fog, no horizon and the diffused glow of a silver sun just hanging up there in the milky firmament. NoiceAlexism for quite a lot of things which taste good or are going especially well, except for the runny drips off everything. This must be the fog CookBritish explorer, navigator, cartographer, and captain in the Royal Navy. He made 3 voyages to the Pacific Ocean, during which he achieved the first recorded European contact with the eastern coastline of Australia and the Hawaiian Islands, and the first recorded circumnavigation of New Zealand. More on wikipedia. wrote about, that he sailed 900 leagues through. Convergence zoneInter Tropical Convergence Zone, also known as The Doldrums classic. FeralsInteresting biological colonies that grow and fester in seaboots. There are left foot ferals and right foot ferals and occasionally they get to cross breed and create fierce hybrids. later – I think we need a new gribWeather files. Graphics in Binary file: GRIB files associate a specific weather datum (eg wind velocity or atmospheric pressure) with a geographic position. Because the resulting file is a collection of these points they are extremely small and so ideal over slow links such as sailmail. so I'll try to send this. Firefly starting to go green at 70+% on the propagationIn the logs, this refers to the radiation of signal energy and is customarily qualified by the words abysmal, ratshit or lousy screen for sailmailSailmail is the system that Berrimilla uses for email communication. It is a non-profit association of yacht owners operating a network of private coast stations in the maritime Mobile Radio Service. (green means there's a chance to connect for that hour of the day and the % gives a rough guide as to how lucky you might be) so things are beginning to close in. About 30k in the marathon – way back from half way – the turning point for confidence. Or the hook for Damocles. By Berrimilla on February 4, 2010, at 1747 UTC
Position 0630 4th 4451 08150, trip 77, DMGDistance Made Good; More here 55 – very soft westerly, twin poledAn explanation from Malcolm: It is quite normal for a yacht to 'pole out' its jib (the foresail) on the opposite side of the boat to the mainsail when running downwind - this is called goosewinging'. A spinnaker pole is attached to the mast at one end and the back corner (clew) of the jib at the other. That holds the jib at the right angle so that it catches the wind. On Berri they've found that they can often get good performance and a comfortable ride by taking the mainsail right down and setting a second jib poled out on the opposite side to the first. all night – snailing it. Pink Predictor – thanks – if you could hazard a guess at a waypointA fixed location with specified latitude and longtitude co-ordinates maintained by GPS to jump on the back of the distant low…my guess around 43S 095E ? Dave J – likewise thanks – confirms our data. Heggie, G'day! By Berrimilla on February 5, 2010, at 0057 UTC
There we were, in our crystal glass of gloopy fog – complete milkout, vis about 100 metres, swells emerging as new horizons, close enough when they became visible to look sinister and menacing and solid. Tiny shadows – fleeting impressions – fast, fluid, sometimes jerky and gone in an instant. Prions! Their beautifully marked grey topsides appearing as soft Chinese brush strokes trailing through the gloop as they banked towards us, their brilliantly white undersides dissolving instantly into the gloop as they banked away. Wonderful. The occasional black shape, probably a white chin – a firmer brush stroke, cursive as it banked and soared. And then the fog cleared this morning – bright sunshine for a while and not a bird in sight. Long flat swell, the emptiest horizon since we left Falmouth. A short visit later from a Black Browed albatross. Now back in the gloop and not even a Prion. The boot feralsInteresting biological colonies that grow and fester in seaboots. There are left foot ferals and right foot ferals and occasionally they get to cross breed and create fierce hybrids.Interesting biological colonies that grow and fester in seaboots. There are left foot feralsInteresting biological colonies that grow and fester in seaboots. There are left foot ferals and right foot ferals and occasionally they get to cross breed and create fierce hybrids. and right foot feralsInteresting biological colonies that grow and fester in seaboots. There are left foot ferals and right foot ferals and occasionally they get to cross breed and create fierce hybrids. and occasionally they get to cross breed and create fierce hybrids. – excited voices all over the place – procreation, hybridisation, cross dressing everywhere – mixing it in errant socks from way back, soggy boots, wonderful new environment inside the neoprene dry suit and they've been getting together with the mouldies in little colonies all over the uninsulated surfaces and the green cheesies in the icebox. Having seen the science they are doing in Kerguelen on isolated populations, I think we missed a chance here! No control groups, no baseline. We are looking at a slowish trip from here – 28 days minimum. If all goes well and we feel up to it, we will pay our respects to CookBritish explorer, navigator, cartographer, and captain in the Royal Navy. He made 3 voyages to the Pacific Ocean, during which he achieved the first recorded European contact with the eastern coastline of Australia and the Hawaiian Islands, and the first recorded circumnavigation of New Zealand. More on wikipedia., Baudin, Flinders and all the others with a visit and small Con in Recherche Bay. We seem to have followed them everywhere else – except CookBritish explorer, navigator, cartographer, and captain in the Royal Navy. He made 3 voyages to the Pacific Ocean, during which he achieved the first recorded European contact with the eastern coastline of Australia and the Hawaiian Islands, and the first recorded circumnavigation of New Zealand. More on wikipedia.'s 71 South. I think it was Midshipman Vancouver who ran out to the end of Resolution's bowsprit at they turned north and became the man who started the Guinness Book of Records. On the beach at Recherche Bay – now that WOULD be an interesting OB for Macca! Bill W – thanks mate. Looking fwd to Con! There's a Black Brow out there… By Berrimilla on February 5, 2010, at 1235 UTC
Or the end of the beginning. My last blog was sent by radio via the Australian sailmailSailmail is the system that Berrimilla uses for email communication. It is a non-profit association of yacht owners operating a network of private coast stations in the maritime Mobile Radio Service. station at Firefly, NSWNew South Wales. State in the East of Australia. New South Wales' capital city is Sydney.. Eureka! There's a small but growing propagationIn the logs, this refers to the radiation of signal energy and is customarily qualified by the words abysmal, ratshit or lousy window on the lower frequencies around 1400 UTC. Maybe this one too…SJ, top right hand corner, Sent via HFHigh Frequency – usually refers to HF radio which is long range digital radio that Berrimilla used to send all but a few of the logs on both circumnavigations. The radio was connected via a Pactor 3 digital modem to Alex’s laptop and used the Sailmail software application called Airmail to send emails and pull in emails, weather and GRIB files. Airmail also supports Iridium satellite telephone messaging and Alex used this as backup when the HF radio died approaching England.-VZX is Firefly, Telnet is Iridium. The photo I would have loved to have been able to take – Berrimilla at anchor in Baie de L'Oiseau. I wonder whether our visit coincided with a google earth satellite overpass – or anybody else's – it was a cloudless day. Anyone know how to find out? Glooopout! It's grey dark – the moon is a pale ghost almost over the masthead, nav lights reflecting like plasma – but the milky gloop is so dense that the visibility is only a few metres. Berri's rolled headsail is a dim, damp silhouette disappearing ahead of us. Windless, cold, oily calm like some foggy days in the English Channel. We are burning a bit of diesel to trickle along and charge the battery. Take yer breath away lovely, there is phosphorescence again, a subdued radiance. We are moving forward inside a gently glowing spearhead with sharp greenish edges, a coiling shaft astern and no other frame of reference beyond the boat. Weirdly eerily beautiful here, absolutely terrifying in the English Channel! Desperately slow progress – I left all Doug's Kerguelen papers with Renaud in Port aux Francais and I don't remember how long it took CookBritish explorer, navigator, cartographer, and captain in the Royal Navy. He made 3 voyages to the Pacific Ocean, during which he achieved the first recorded European contact with the eastern coastline of Australia and the Hawaiian Islands, and the first recorded circumnavigation of New Zealand. More on wikipedia. to reach Tasmania in similar fog. He, of course, had no option but to sail. For me, 31k perhaps in a marathon – the end of a Sunday run but still way short of mental half way in the real thing. You can just sense that there may be a finish line out there somewhere but you daren't think about it and the body is starting to get stroppy and ask rude questions of the mind. I wonder if I will ever be able to finish another one – the atrophy has really set in these last five relatively inactive years. Something to rebuild. By Berrimilla on February 5, 2010, at 1823 UTC
rather slowly! Position 0630 5th 4416 08331, trip 92, DMGDistance Made Good; More here 60. Nowt else to report – pale excuse for the sun a slightly brighter patch in the overcast – soft breeze, no apparent relationship with our current gribWeather files. Graphics in Binary file: GRIB files associate a specific weather datum (eg wind velocity or atmospheric pressure) with a geographic position. Because the resulting file is a collection of these points they are extremely small and so ideal over slow links such as sailmail. but we are for the first time for ages, pointing at Hobart. I think Kaharoa is due in today if anyone there is interested. No birds, internal feralsInteresting biological colonies that grow and fester in seaboots. There are left foot ferals and right foot ferals and occasionally they get to cross breed and create fierce hybrids. in a frenzy – I've started eliminating some of their ecosystems and they are all migrating from boat to boot, so to speak. And we soldier on. By Stephen on February 5, 2010, at 2143 UTC
By Stephen on February 6, 2010, at 1054 UTC
By Berrimilla on February 6, 2010, at 1741 UTC
Position 0630 6th 4448 08612, trip 124, DMGDistance Made Good; More here 127. NoiceAlexism for quite a lot of things which taste good or are going especially well! And about time! The odometer from Falmouth now reads 11699 miles sailed. Some serious thank yous due. First, my Iridium banker, (my sister IsabellaAlex's sister in the UK) says that she has banked about 500 pounds in the Iridium tin so far – Massive thanks to all of you who contributed – I don't have any idea what the eventual bill will be but that will certainly make a dent in it. For the curious, I have to pay the account in sterling with a direct debit to a sterling credit card because I set it up with Cable and Wireless in Port Stanley in 2005 and that was one of the conditions under which they were prepared to let me out of their sight clutching new phone and SIM card. Second – to Kiwi Feather Props in NZ. The new prop has arrived in Hobart, specified for the new engine. I mentioned that Kiwi had 'subsidised' the new one in an earlier blog but in fact they have donated it in return for the old, much travelled one which is to be examined and then become a museum piece in the factory. Great people, responsive, competent and know their product. And it's an elegant, relatively simple and inexpensive bit of gear that has performed faultlessly over almost 2 circumnavigations and a whole lot more. Thanks guys. ———- By Berrimilla on February 6, 2010, at 2255 UTC
Hard grey sea, gently spiky, Berri tramping along – uniform, slightly ribbed overcast, cloudbase about 1000ft, emptiness all the way to the horizon – no birds, no sea monsters, no swimming polar bears or silly old farts with tridents. Unusual and starkly lonely – a reminder of just how isolated we really are. ISSInternational Space Station crew definitely closest humans out here at about 340km. Half way through Steinbeck's 'Grapes of Wrath' which we picked up in the flea market in Cape Town. What a book! I was given 'Cannery Row' as a kid and found it heavy going and never came back to Steinbeck. Wonderful to find something so vivid, so densely packed with immediate images, lyrically beautiful descriptions and passages that are mesmerisingly similar to things I have tried to write about here with presumptuous ineptitude. Al 'feeling' the old car, the way he describes Ma, the Preacher's uncertainty – searing clarity, impossible to avoid being there with them. I'm hooked and cross eyed with the power of it. He uses a word – at least twice – that I don't think I have ever seen before: anlage. The context might give it a meaning such as equipment, infrastructure, the toolkit? Or possibly more like competence or ability. Bill W – thanks! – address in original request. ———- By Berrimilla on February 7, 2010, at 1350 UTC
Please excuse a small diversion from the voyage story: Alex has said it’s OK to upload this. Last year he gave me a plastic token he kept after visiting Cambridge Bay (Ikaluktutiak) while sailing the North West PassageThe Northwest Passage is a sea route through the Arctic Ocean, along the northern coast of North America via waterways amidst the Canadian Arctic Archipelago, connecting the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. More here. in 2008. It’s a token allowing the limited purchase of alcohol at a Club, or Lodge called ELKS. Let’s leave aside the almost unimaginable concept that this “One Drink” was not claimed.
I am a long-time Friend of the Pitt Rivers Museum in Oxford, and felt that this unusual – if humble – object might be of interest to the Museum, and so I wrote to them about it. The Joint Head of Collections replied that they would be delighted to accept the token as an addition to their collection of “coinage substitutes.” The PRM, I should explain, is a world-class Museum and part of the University of Oxford. Objects are displayed by type rather than culture. It has long been an inspiration to writers and artists as well as to historians, explorers, anthropologists and archaeologists, both for the objects it displays as well as their often intriguing provenances.
Relevant links to this update:
Pitt Rivers Museum, Oxford
Relevant pages on the old NWPThe Northwest Passage is a sea route through the Arctic Ocean, along the northern coast of North America via waterways amidst the Canadian Arctic Archipelago, connecting the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. More here. blog
NB: this is the Berrisite that has been heavily spammed in its most recent pages. When you get to the page in my link you need to scroll down to the dates around 8th August. You’ll see a title: Cambridge Bay, wherever google earth thinks it is. The update below that title is the nearest I can find to link the token to the NWPThe Northwest Passage is a sea route through the Arctic Ocean, along the northern coast of North America via waterways amidst the Canadian Arctic Archipelago, connecting the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. More here. story.
Why alcohol abuse is a problem in Cambridge Bay:
Posted by IsabellaAlex's sister, Alex’s sister in the UK
By Berrimilla on February 7, 2010, at 1612 UTC
I have been reminded of the makeshift custom of the days of long voyages where the ships left letters for home in some sheltered spot at a point where outward and return tracks crossed and ships stopped for water. There were stones at Cape Town before the Dutch built a permanent settlement there under which letters were 'posted' by outgoing ships to be picked up and taken back to Europe by those going home. Likewise on Juan Fernandez, temporary home of Alexander Selkirk, Robinson Crusoe to his fans. No doubt there were many others possibly even in Tasmania. Haphazard – I wonder whether there are still letters out there in some isolated spot, waiting to be collected. Perhaps there's a small research article there somewhere for a history project. Anyway, seems to me we are repeating history. The good ship Berrimilla has left letters under a figurative stone – Renaud's mailbox on Kerguelen – waiting for a passing ship to deliver them to all y'all around the world. I'd have loved to have landed at Baie de L'Oiseau and left a message in a bottle there too but, alas, it was not possible. We had one ready. On which thought, if we were to release one here, it would probably end up in Chile if it didn't get snagged by MacQuarie or the Campbells. Might be fun to do. 2 birds in the emptiness. Very hard to identify – under grey overcast, upper wing markings merge into uniform grey. Jizz combined with location does not match anything I can find in the book – nearest might be Barau's petrel. The weather systems seem to have turned right side up at last – we are now happily chugging along in the top of a low, poled out in a nice 20 kt westerly which looks good for a day or so. Yeeebloodyhaaaa! Less than a quarter of the globe to go to complete the second circ. Technically, this would happen at the Iron PotA small island lying close to the south-eastern coast of Tasmania around the entrance to the River DerwentThe Derwent is a river in Tasmania, Australia. Its large estuary forms the port of Hobart. . It is the site of Tasmania’s first lighthouse. at the mouth of the DerwentThe Derwent is a river in Tasmania, Australia. Its large estuary forms the port of Hobart. or a bit further north in the DerwentThe Derwent is a river in Tasmania, Australia. Its large estuary forms the port of Hobart. if we take the D'Entrecasteaux Channel and would include our roll off Gabo Island in 2007, but the more elegant version would end at South Head if we get to enter Sydney Harbour. If we do manage either of these, there is an interesting list of achievements to go with them – none of any consequence but each with its own integrity and all by accident really. None were intended anyway. I'll post the list if we look like getting there. By Berrimilla on February 7, 2010, at 1818 UTC
Position 0630 7th 4501 08857, trip 127, DMGDistance Made Good; More here 122 – still ok! Birds again. Still don't know what the earlier ones were but we just had a short visit from a few Soft Plumaged petrels. Lovely birds, they come haring in towards the boat, rocking slightly in the wind, see me in the cockpit and with a couple of flips are banked instantly away while they look around and assess the situation and come back and do it all again. Fast, acrobatic, jerky flight. Dropped the main, just half the heady on the pole – sea rising in the consistent westerly, but this due to abate slowly. Apparently some nasties due in a week or so, but things change so fast here that anything is possible. Beginning to yearn for home. The plan – DV and WP – will be to get ourselves past Maatsuuyker and in range of SE CapeThe southernmost point of the main island of Tasmania and then decide on Adventure Bay or Recherche for a small diversionary celebration. Should anyone want to join us, watch this space but we are definitely not there yet and a long way to go. About 20 days minimum. Carol, thanks. No need for any more. And I think you should definitely have a go at Steinbeck. MJC – Gotcha thanks. I think Baudin might have met Flinders in Recherche – they dined together somewhere and that may have been it. By Berrimilla on February 8, 2010, at 0133 UTC
With deference and great respect to my friend the late Leon Peres, who invented it. First, the story – the science follows: Pole attached to mast, topper and downhaul attached, boat rolling through perhaps 30 deg so pole end into pulpitThe railing at the bow of a boat, which sometimes extends past the deck. and lean on it while hanking on the sail. Attach halyard – and the tricky bit, back to the mast and get the pole hoisted way high, sheet on so it stops pole from banging on the forestay foil and damaging it – and back to the cockpit to hoist the sail. Needs 4 sets of hands but possible in well set up boat. The sail goes three quarters of the way up and jams. AAArrrghhh! Won't go up or down, so we have a biggish sail doing a Grand old Duke of York, neither up nor down and flogging but basically under control for the time being. Pole leaping around a bit. Looks as if the halyard has jumped the sheave at the masthead and is caught between the sheave and the cheeks of the block. For the nautically challenged, all you need to understand is that this looks like the beginning of some very bad karma indeed. Essential to get it sorted and now before things get really bad. No option but to go up to the masthead and see whether it can be freed, or just cut or perhaps unshackle the sail and leave the halyard flapping in the breeze. Only the first is really a goer – the other options are potentially big problems later if things get otherwise pearshaped. Muggins again – because I set up the arrangement at the masthead and know what's up there. Get into harness, struggle into our much too complicated bosun's chair with pliers, two knives, gloves and boots on and tether attached. Mast wet and slippery, no spare halyardsLines to hoist the sails to hold on to, Pete in the cockpit on the winch and off we go, muggins climbing with legs around swaying mast, holding shrouds, taking it slowly and resting the old carcase at each set of spreaders – tricky at the spreaders because you have to go out and around things but Pete winches away when necessary and we get me up there. Grip with legs around the mast which is swaying through a biggish arc, (for the record, it's about 55 feet above the water and probably rolling through 30+ degrees – not a lot, but interesting)let go with both hands and use the full, creaky power of the decrepit shoulders to work the halyard out of the jam. With a bit of effort, it happens and Pete hoists the sail the rest of the way while I hang on and try not to think of what might be happening to the nethers as the mast sways and the delicate parts, squeezed by the straps of the chair are alternately squashed against the mast and stretched away as I hang underneath it. Erk! And back down again, slowly. Pete had just teleported Dr GordonGordon’s Gin before all this started, so we had Long ConsultationA regular engagement with alcohol. One might say this whole epic is a Consultation with a bit of a sail round it. See also Conservation Mode; Linear and Parallel Methods of Consultation and thought about the science. When Roland at Tempo built the mast, he put, at my direction, agricultural kiteSailors’ slang for a spinnaker halyardsLines to hoist the sails on it. I looked at them when the mast had been stepped and thought – Too agricultural – 12 mm spectraSpectra™ : - a highly modified polyethylene fibre with many applications such as ropes and sails – so I put some much skinnier ones on instead, but did not change the masthead blocks, which have widely grooved sheaves to take the agricultural string. Mistake – too easy for the skinny string to jump as we discovered. But I kept the original halyardsLines to hoist the sails and we'll replace the skinny ones when we drop the sail. Muddling through towards perfection. Now happily twin poledAn explanation from Malcolm: It is quite normal for a yacht to 'pole out' its jib (the foresail) on the opposite side of the boat to the mainsail when running downwind - this is called goosewinging'. A spinnaker pole is attached to the mast at one end and the back corner (clew) of the jib at the other. That holds the jib at the right angle so that it catches the wind. On Berri they've found that they can often get good performance and a comfortable ride by taking the mainsail right down and setting a second jib poled out on the opposite side to the first. and hooningAs far as I can gather, if Berri were a horse, she’d have the bit between her teeth to be hooning. By Berrimilla on February 8, 2010, at 1739 UTC
Position 0630 8th. 4451 09135, trip 117, DMGDistance Made Good; More here 109 – dragging the chain a bit! ‘This is the time when is tempting to keep looking sat the GPS to get an ETAEstimated Time of Arrival – a temptation that should be resisted always, because the ETAEstimated Time of Arrival changes every few seconds and may vary by a week from one minute to the next, depending where we are on a wave. Astronomically, we are now closer to Australian Summer time than to UTC – signs of progress everywhere. Still not fully in range of Firefly sailmailSailmail is the system that Berrimilla uses for email communication. It is a non-profit association of yacht owners operating a network of private coast stations in the maritime Mobile Radio Service. and the connections are often too flaky, so still using Iridium for most posts. After all that bother last night, the red sail was only up for about 4 hours and the wind changed. But worth perhaps 4 miles in that time. I’ve run the old fat halyard back up the mast instead of its skinny mate, so with a bit of luck we’ve muddled through. I will replace the other one when we get a nice warm day. Now in flop and wallow mode – tedious – but moving in the right direction. My guess for Hobart March 1 if we get lucky. One thing I noticed from the masthead was that you can see the markings on the upper wings of the birds much better. Yesterday’s at masthead time were Prions. We have what might be a Sooty albatross with us now and another, probably juvenile and for me unidentifiable, but an albatross. Doug, thanks for Adventure Bay note – as I was reading it, we were within about 50 miles of K1An accurate copy of John Harrison's H4The first marine chronometer, designed by John Harisson. More on wikipedia. (first marine chronometer) , made by Larcum Kendall. James Cook used K1 on his second and third voyages.‘s run down position. Hard to believe that Arthur Phillip really couldn’t get to it to wind it – sounds like a cover up to me! Dawes’ correction is astonishing – presumably he had to work back from DR, the estimated time the timekeeper stopped, his sights – I wouldn’t know where to begin but then I’m mathematically challenged. We are seeing the sun for the first time for about a week as I write. Glimpses through the fogbanks and overcast. I wonder whether our northern horizon would have the First Fleet spread along it if we could see all the ships that had ever passed this way. What a sight! There was a pamphlet published when all the Ks were in Sdney in 1988 for the BiCentenary. called The Travels of the Timekeepers with the details of their journeys – it was the 4th visit to Sydney for one of them, probably K1An accurate copy of John Harrison's H4The first marine chronometer, designed by John Harisson. More on wikipedia. (first marine chronometer) , made by Larcum Kendall. James Cook used K1 on his second and third voyages.. I think the pamphlet was published by the NSWNew South Wales. State in the East of Australia. New South Wales' capital city is Sydney. Historical Society or some such body and I have a copy if you have not seen it. Barry, thanks for definition of anlage – I was at least in the ballpark! By Berrimilla on February 9, 2010, at 1759 UTC
Position 0630 9th 4454 09359, trip 107, DMGDistance Made Good; More here 106 – still a bit in the bag. We also cracked 12000 sailing miles from Falmouth. Iridium Bill – another old fart, like the non existent Mr Posters. I now have the first installment and, barring catastrophe, I think we have enough in the tin to cover the voyage. Thanks everyone – if there's any left over, I will apply it to the coming home party medications and I will write to you all when we get back and IsabellaAlex's sister sends me a list. From some incoming mails: SJ: FenwickA friend and clearly a colourful character, DOF that you are – remember to delete the previous email string before you press 'send' else I'll empty the drag bucket over your new paintwork when we get home. What sort of boat are we planning for? Woc – congratulations to Cam – we'll Consult. SJ/SW – please post Doug's latest on Dawes – clearly a man with an interesting character – I think I'd have liked him. ———- By Berrimilla on February 10, 2010, at 1743 UTC
Position 0630 10th 4535 09654, trip 132, DMGDistance Made Good; More here 135. A good day – we seem to have hooked into something good – keep 'em crossed please. Maatsuuyker now just over 3 Hobart races away – 3 Berrimilla Units. No predictions yet but we are glad to be moving properly again. Australia now takes up lots of chart space on the computer and the GPS. I can pull in ABC local radio – 702 – sometimes at night, presumably the Perth regional station, now about 1100 miles away. Will try for Radio National tonight (Thanks HilaryAlex’s partner and Katherine’s mother!) Not a lot to report. Wet and windy and lumpy – grey, damp, soggy conditions, wind NE 15-20 and forecast to back to the west for a couple of days. Both a bit weary and looking forward to some sort of arrival. We are thinking that a short stop in Adventure Bay to pay our respects to all those who went before would round things off nicely but will depend on conditions – ours, Berri's and the weather. It's beginning to feel like about half way from Falmouth – 36k in the marathon – just have to grind it out from here. Yet – yet there is also the feeling of incipient nostalgia – what to do with ourselves afterwards… By Stephen on February 10, 2010, at 2156 UTC
Hello Alex & Peter,
I hope you have a good trip with fine wind and not such a bad sea. Yesterday, the australian customer’s ship, Oceanic Viking, was here. I think you are near to reach your destination, Hobart. I’ll be glad to have somme news when you’ll arrive. So I wish you a very good home coming.
All the seamen from Kerguelen islandsend you theit best wishes as well.
Amitiés Australes (in french in the text :-))
Christophe Froehlinger – Kerguelen 60ème mission
By Berrimilla on February 10, 2010, at 2228 UTC
It was really all too easy for too long! Now in the wrong sector of a nasty tight little low, 35+ knots NE, barometer plummeting, short lumpy horrible sea, driving rain, waves breaking over the boat again. Bloody ExaminerShe who asks awkward questions of the crew and tests them with difficult tasks. can't keep her nose out of it for long. We're more or less going sideways on about 170T and it's not fun. Looks as if there's another one behind it too. Getting dark and it's going to be a long night. Well, Earlier Birders, I suppose – I've been reading a who-dunnit that has a fake birder as central character. Says that jizz is derived from RAF slang for General Identification Size and Shape being the term describing how to identify aircraft. Often first and only impression from tiny glimpse and experience will match it to at least a broad category. Been there – both with aircraft and birds. Tricky! Sue, tks for predictions. Pinko not having fun with the rest of us! Nethers recovering. Enjoy the Olympics! Christophe – thanks for photos – I will write to you when this weather passes. Which it will. By Berrimilla on February 11, 2010, at 0047 UTC
Just come back inside from sorting pearshapedness. Dripping wetties hung and hands dried as best as I can. When you've had it good for a few days you tend to forget how bloody awful these things are. We are now almost bare poledExplanation here – tiny patch of headsail, gusty NE wind around 40-45 kts just aft of the port beam so we are running with it to minimise the effect, heading away from Hobart to the south west. Big breaking waves, Berri rolling all over the place, horizontal, cold rain, howling blast from the rig and this is only a toy one. Pete asleep through it all – I don't know how he does it. Barometer still falling – down from about 1010 to 995 at about 3hp/hr. I think we must be close to the centre of the low – which the gribWeather files. Graphics in Binary file: GRIB files associate a specific weather datum (eg wind velocity or atmospheric pressure) with a geographic position. Because the resulting file is a collection of these points they are extremely small and so ideal over slow links such as sailmail. puts about 50 miles further south at 1002, so it came as a nasty surprise to disturb the complacency. All we can do is sit it out and try to regain ground to the north when it abates. I can feel the pressure of the wind gustsShort increases in wind speed – or people who signed the Gust Book. in my ears. Now to watch the wind direction to see whether it veers or backs as the low moves away so we know where we are in the system and have an idea what to expect next. Have a nice day! As I said, it's looking like a long night. By Berrimilla on February 11, 2010, at 1115 UTC
And the long night drags on. Things have improved – the barometer bottomed out at about 993 and now infinitesimally climbing again, the wind started to back, hesitated, threw us some savage gustsShort increases in wind speed – or people who signed the Gust Book., pouring rain and blasting spray, dropped to nothing and backed very quickly NW then W at 25 kts. I think the top of the eye of the low passed over us – anyway, we are now running NE with the wind on the quarter and about half the headsail. Confused sea but it's getting better – we no longer get the massive crashes and subsequent cascades as big waves come in from the side and break against the boat or over it. We are still rolling all over the place, but it's not constant – just happens in bursts as cross-wave trains trundle through and agitate a lot. The barn doorMetaphor for whatever we were aiming at. Derived from the saying “Couldn’t hit a barn door at five paces” used to describe anyone who can’t shoot straight. once more somewhere over the horizon ahead of us where it ought to be. By Berrimilla on February 11, 2010, at 1747 UTC
Position 0630 11th 4538 09902, trip 119, DMGDistance Made Good; More here 92. Not bad, considering the nastiness last night. Huge SW swell at first light, wit the NE wind waves over it and the rising waves from the current westerly so very confused, big seas. We are running NE with about half the headsail – still a bit iffy to go for twin poles and anyway, if the gribWeather files. Graphics in Binary file: GRIB files associate a specific weather datum (eg wind velocity or atmospheric pressure) with a geographic position. Because the resulting file is a collection of these points they are extremely small and so ideal over slow links such as sailmail. is to be believed (probably not!) the wind is supposed to go north later today. Following yesterday's jizz, interesting fact no. 2 – Mercury was used as a 'carrot' or stiffener in the felt hat industry. Lewis Carroll's Mad Hatter was based on workers in the industry who suffered from mercury poisoning causing 'Hatters' Shakes' and mental aberration. Not a kindly portrait after all. From Harold Klawan's book 'Newton's Madness' Bodley Head, uk 1990. Also from the Cape Town flea market. I wonder where the Queen of Hearts came from. And we soldier on – 1980 miles to my Maatsuuyker waypointA fixed location with specified latitude and longtitude co-ordinates maintained by GPS which is about 20 miles short of the island. ———- By Berrimilla on February 12, 2010, at 1540 UTC
Middle watch, now, of course in full daylight. High stratus and strato-cu and lots of blue sky. Yeehaaa. NoiceAlexism for quite a lot of things which taste good or are going especially well to see the sun for once although it is frosted behind the cloud layer at the mo. Trying to squeeze every last centimetre out of this breeze – it's coming from roughly north, about 12 kts, reasonably calm sea and we're making about 5 kt towards Hobart. Due to increase to 20+ as the day progresses and we'll shorten sail and keep going. Now have Cape Leeuwin to Maatsuuyker across the top of the computer screen with Berri bottom left – progress becomes almost visible at this scale. Norm, (& MJC) thanks for Queen Victoria – I guess it's obvious really when you look at Tenniel's drawings in Alice – Her Imperial Maj. to a T! Glad you're still out there – was getting worried! Val and Jill – looks as if we will miss Freo, barring catastrophe, but we will wave as we go past, probably around next Wednesday. Ferret the Noige – an EeyoreThe lugubrious donkey in AA Milne’s Winnie the Pooh. moment – that's just what WOULD happen! But will be good to have them and may order some more when we get home if ok with you. By Berrimilla on February 12, 2010, at 1749 UTC
Position 0630 12th 4509 10143, trip 122, DMGDistance Made Good; More here 107. 1878 to Maatsuuyker waypointA fixed location with specified latitude and longtitude co-ordinates maintained by GPS. ETAEstimated Time of Arrival SE CapeThe southernmost point of the main island of Tasmania perhaps March 1st – so there's a non prediction wot I never ever make. Metre by metre we're closing in. I think we may have sown the seeds of a bit of international collaboration between Australia and Kerguelen – more later, if it develops. But gratifying and thanks mostly to Doug Morrison and his papers. In a little northerly burst – around 20kts so far, not supposed to go more that 25 but who knows. Seas rising again. Sunshine for a couple of hours this morning, now gone – what a difference it makes to one's mood. Eternal grey is grim. By Stephen on February 12, 2010, at 2107 UTC
By Berrimilla on February 13, 2010, at 1438 UTC
Well – middle watch again – oughta be daylight but it's the usual greyout with lashing spray, 35+ knots, violence, bashing, crashing waves the works. Seems we get an hour or so of the good times while the ExaminerShe who asks awkward questions of the crew and tests them with difficult tasks. excuses herself and then it's back on the rack. But it does get us across the ocean pretty quickly so this isn't a complaint, just a bleat. And to keep it all in proportion, this is exactly what Francis Joyon, GroupamaIn this context a massive trimaran attempting a round-the-world record for the Jules Verne Trophy. They overtook us twice – once before we reached Cape Town on their first attempt which they abandoned after damaging a hull. They preceded us into Cape Town and we visited them there. They sailed back to France and set off again and overtook us way to the south before we reached Hobart. More about Groupama here (Wikipedia) and all the other elite headbangers go hunting for and try to stay in for the whole two and a bit months they are out here. Sitting here,though, in this little old barge, the next 15 days or so do look pretty endless. Erk – that WAS a big one – massive roaring crash and Iguacu falls cascading off the coachroof, poor old Berri shuddering and shaking herself and off again. We have the main up with the 3rd reef-- As a verb – to shorten sail, to use reefing lines or other techniques to make the working part of a sail smaller and so reduce its power as the wind rises. --- As a noun, (1) the part of the sail that has been shortened, folded or rolled. May be referred to as a slab or a slab reef which is a particular way of forming a reef. -- As a noun (2) – a bank of coral, rocks or other obstruction usually close to a shoreline and potentially dangerous to sailors. and it's really way too much but this is supposed to blow out – like 6 hours ago…And we are continually pushed south – got to get as far north as possible in the next break. A bit of reality TV for anyone else who might be thinking of following: Apologies if that's all a bit condescending – but I think it needs to be said occasionally. Seems the last big wave wrote off the GPS aerial – filled it with water. Damn! Have backup, can travel but a bummer. By Berrimilla on February 13, 2010, at 1738 UTC
Position 0630 13th. 4537 10501, trip 141, DMGDistance Made Good; More here 147 – probably GPS glitch here but DMGDistance Made Good; More here is accurate. Still thoroughly unpleasant but improving slightly. Just trying to get back north again before the next one hits us. This has been the nastiest bit of sea I have experienced for a very long time – at least three big superimposed patterns and 30+ knots to boil it all up. Seems to be abating now but will take time for the sea to drop. GPS has recovered, at least for the mo. Bill – tks for ice & fire Time for a cup of nice hot soup fortified with dried mashed spud for body and periperi for flavour. Hardly matters what flavbour the soup is supposed to be. By Berrimilla on February 14, 2010, at 1807 UTC
Position 0630 14th 4450 10720, trip 117, DMGDistance Made Good; More here 90. Not bad – a soft and variable 24 hours mostly and more to come. This is sort of nowhere land – not yet close but the barn doorMetaphor for whatever we were aiming at. Derived from the saying “Couldn’t hit a barn door at five paces” used to describe anyone who can’t shoot straight. is just below the horizon and I can almost feel its rough, rusty nails and peelng green paint. Time and distance pass very slowly – we go about the business, we grind out the metres, try to keep everything together, Berri pointing north of east to get some northing and give us a bit of flexibility when the next low arrives, probably tomorrow. I'm hoping we are getting close to the influence of the high that usually lives in the Bight and tends to block the passage of the lows and send them south east. No real signs yet that it is there waiting for us. Pale sunlight, cold, cheerless but we're trying to get things dry. Last year, just north of here, Pete Goss was knocked down in Mystery and his brother in law broke his leg. Did some damage to Mystery too – I visited her later in Williamstown. Pete gave a presentation and that was when we auctioned the ensign Berri Flew for the NW Passage and Mystery then carried for the rest of the circumnavigation as her Oz courtesy flag. It made a thousand dollars for the Bushfire Appeal. Just a few birds around – Prions and Storm Petrels – but mostly, the place is empty empty. By Berrimilla on February 14, 2010, at 2359 UTC
Looks as if it is going to get rather ordinary out here for a few days. We are right in front of a two day blast along the SW corner of the high that is forming north of us and we are due for a reasonably gentle day tomorrow with the westerly gradually increasing, then about 2 days of 25 – 30 with much higher gustsShort increases in wind speed – or people who signed the Gust Book. as the thing gets itself into gear. This means big, breaking seas and discomfort. Lots. The good news is that it is pretty much in the right direction, so as long as we can keep things together we should make progress. Trying to follow good compromise course right now and get NE as fast as we can so that if we have to run down with it, we don't end up way south again. But not a pleasant prospect. The gut clenchens and the knuckles grackle. By Berrimilla on February 15, 2010, at 0723 UTC
Murphy1- The inventor of Murphy’s Law which states (in various ways) that if something can go wrong, it will. 2- Irish beer and the elements have just combined to deliver one of Those Moments. We have been climbing the latitudes to the NE to make a bit of space for the forthcoming blast but the wind backed to the point where I thought it necessary to gybeGybe - A sailing term for turning the boat so that the stern passes through the wind. Potentially dangerous if not controlled because the wind can fill an uncontrolled mainsail from the wrong side and crash it across the boat, possibly causing damage to the rig and anyone getting in the way.. Black, overcast night, faint glow from the horizon to the west. Haven't seen the stars or the moon for days – unremitting nightly gloom. Out into the cockpit, set it all up, remembered the checkstay just in time, tweaked KevvoStainless steel self steering device, built by Kevin Fleming, used on Berrimilla and countless others across and a nice gentle gybeGybe - A sailing term for turning the boat so that the stern passes through the wind. Potentially dangerous if not controlled because the wind can fill an uncontrolled mainsail from the wrong side and crash it across the boat, possibly causing damage to the rig and anyone getting in the way. later, start tidying it all up. All a bit delicate – main way out to port, boat rolling, preventer not yet sorted and tight so uncontrolled gybeGybe - A sailing term for turning the boat so that the stern passes through the wind. Potentially dangerous if not controlled because the wind can fill an uncontrolled mainsail from the wrong side and crash it across the boat, possibly causing damage to the rig and anyone getting in the way. back very much on the cards. Keep head down, get preventer on the cleat, then headlight in red, go forward to release and re-run starboard preventer. Bang headlight against the boom and, enter stage left Professor Murphy1- The inventor of Murphy’s Law which states (in various ways) that if something can go wrong, it will. 2- Irish beer, it goes out. Dead. Corpsed. An ex-parrot headlight. A moment of absolute blackness – brace, keep everything in place by feel and then the eyes adjust and still have reasonable night vision and yeeehaaa! phosphorescence all around, swirling coils in the wake aft but – a big slashing gap in the overcast and there in glorious glowing diamond cascades across the sky was the milky way. Almost as wondrous as my first aurora off Baffin Island. Just had a message from GroupamaIn this context a massive trimaran attempting a round-the-world record for the Jules Verne Trophy. They overtook us twice – once before we reached Cape Town on their first attempt which they abandoned after damaging a hull. They preceded us into Cape Town and we visited them there. They sailed back to France and set off again and overtook us way to the south before we reached Hobart. More about Groupama here (Wikipedia) 3 – they will probably pass south of us on Feb 28th, as we close on Tasmania. Go guys! And so we wait for the blast. A lot will depend on the actual wind direction when it arrives but I suspect there will be 24+ hours or so of bare polingExplanation here, trying not to go too fast and get sideways on a big wave. By Berrimilla on February 15, 2010, at 1742 UTC
Position 0630 15th 4405 10926, trip 110, DMGDistance Made Good; More here 81 – spent a lot of the period heading NE. Back pointing at the barn doorMetaphor for whatever we were aiming at. Derived from the saying “Couldn’t hit a barn door at five paces” used to describe anyone who can’t shoot straight., wind 20-25kt, sunshine through 4/8ths cu, luminous blue green sea. The biggest albatross of the voyage earlier but could not retrieve camera in time. Snowy or NZ, I think. Curious, gently condescending, total superiority. Lifetime event stuff. Talking of which, your puzzle for the day: One wild, sweet hour of glorious life is worth a world without a name. Why, and what was the occasion? Is the quotation apocryphal? An echo of the reported last words of Elizabeth 1st – 'My kingdom for one more minute' which, from memory, may be misquoted. And we wait – 1800 UTC is the gribWeather files. Graphics in Binary file: GRIB files associate a specific weather datum (eg wind velocity or atmospheric pressure) with a geographic position. Because the resulting file is a collection of these points they are extremely small and so ideal over slow links such as sailmail.'s prediction for the leading edge – about 11 hours. By Berrimilla on February 16, 2010, at 1742 UTC
Position 0630 16th 4349 11204, trip 119, DMGDistance Made Good; More here
111. So – doom and gloom suspended for the time being, knuckles still in moderate grackle mode and appendages firmly crossed. Sweaty when you have to keep them like that for so long! Somewhere out there, there's a hippo buying high heels over the internet. Don't know whether s/he's a cross dresser or just thinks it's cool to be hippo in blahniks. Definitely a cut above the mud wallows around Devon. No – I haven't gone completely loony – just the hippo. We have a deadline. I have 7 coffee filters left from the pack of 250 that came with the jug I bought what seems years ago in Nome but was really only 18 months or so. I am recycling them – I can always get 2 cups but they tend to disintegrate after the second, so we must be in Hobart in 14 days or I go cold turkey. A variation on Prufrock, may his memory live on. 0630 from here: By Berrimilla on February 17, 2010, at 1735 UTC
Position 0630 17th 4357 11505, trip 133, DMGDistance Made Good; More here
112. Consistent! By Berrimilla on February 18, 2010, at 0559 UTC
Berrimilla's first circumnavigation was the Sydney-HobartSydney-Hobart Race: often described as the most gruelling ocean race in the world, this annual race starts on 26th December from Sydney Harbour and ends in Hobart. The course is 628 nautical miles. – FastnetFastnet Race: 608 mile biennial race from Cowes, UK, Isle of Wight, to the Fastnet Rock off Southern Ireland, finishing in Plymouth. Berrimilla took part in 2005 and 2009. – Sydney-HobartSydney-Hobart Race: often described as the most gruelling ocean race in the world, this annual race starts on 26th December from Sydney Harbour and ends in Hobart. The course is 628 nautical miles. sandwich via Cape Horn in 2005. That circumnavigation actually began and ended in Hobart. It was a first and I doubt whether anyone will be silly enough to do it again. As I said in an earlier blog, iff we make it into Hobart this time, we will complete our second circumnavigation in the DerwentThe Derwent is a river in Tasmania, Australia. Its large estuary forms the port of Hobart. , also, I think, a first but this one via the North West PassageThe Northwest Passage is a sea route through the Arctic Ocean, along the northern coast of North America via waterways amidst the Canadian Arctic Archipelago, connecting the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. More here.. Hobart again is really where it can be said to have started and quite by accident. We were in Hobart after the 2006 Sydney Hobart race and we left to sail back to Sydney on about January 2nd 2007. Since leaving Hobart that day, we have sailed rather jerkily around the world. So, the second circumnavigation includes our near disastrous upending off Gabo Island (I think there's a link somewhere in the blog to this story) and loss of the mast, a tow from the Water Police launch into Eden and the long trip motoring back up the coast to Sydney. When we left Hobart, Pete, myself, Tom Crozier (no relation) and Dozy Old Fart FenwickA friend and clearly a colourful character were on board as far as Eden, then Bermagui. The others left me there and went home and Brian Maher came down to Bermagui a few days later to help me motor the old barge back to Sydney after John WitchardWitchard, John: Berri has one of his 22hp engines, much praised for its reliability. See also Tractor. had stripped the engine and got it running again. Then later that year there was Baton Rouge and Pascal Lee drew his map in my notebook on the bar of the Varsity pub at Louisiana State University and the North West PassageThe Northwest Passage is a sea route through the Arctic Ocean, along the northern coast of North America via waterways amidst the Canadian Arctic Archipelago, connecting the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. More here. idea morphed into misty life. Pascal's map is now on T shirts all over the place with Berri's Kingfisher. If anyone wants one, let me know and I'll organise a link to the Demented Ferret who produces them. Rather a lot of intensive planning later, Pete couldn't come and Corrie McQueen flew out from England for the real start of the NW Passage attempt and the very long non-stop trip up the Pacific to AdakA city on Adak island (Aleutians, Alaska) and a former US naval base. in the Aleutians and then Dutch Harbour. Kimbra Lindus joined us in Dutch Harbour for the actual transit. Then Nome, waiting for the ice at Point BarrowPoint Barrow or Nuvuk is a headland on the Arctic coast in the U.S. state of Alaska. It is the northernmost point of all the territory of the United States. More on
wikipedia to break. The Bering Strait – two continents, two oceans, two superpowers. The transit, Arctic Circle to Arctic Circle – 31 days of astonishing experiences – ice, whales, foggy pinkouts, swimming bears, belugasThese small whales are superficially more like oversize, white, friendly dolphins.
, the old and the new DEW lines, the ghosts of Francis Crozier and the FranklinSir John Franklin, arctic explorer who died with all his men in 1847 while seeking the Northwest Passage. crews, freezing rain, BeecheyBeechey Island is an island located in the Canadian Arctic Archipelago of Nunavut, Canada. More on wikipedia Island so near yet so far, EleanorDaughter of Alex Whitworth on Devon Island for the eclipse. And the people we met. AmodinoSteel boat built in NZ and sailed through the North West Passage with us., Arctic Wanderer and the other boats. Afterwards, in Nuuk, the most expensive beer I've ever bought. The smell of fish from Paamiut, still with me. A thoroughly unpleasant Atlantic crossing and Gordy and Dave Carne rounding that bit off in Falmouth. Changing the engine in the car park in Falmouth and then the gearbox in Hamble. And the gearbox again in Lisbon. The application to the Russians for the NE passage. Berri's second FastnetFastnet Race: 608 mile biennial race from Cowes, UK, Isle of Wight, to the Fastnet Rock off Southern Ireland, finishing in Plymouth. Berrimilla took part in 2005 and 2009.. And then it's been just Pete and me from Falmouth to here. About 26000 miles so far this time and about 2000 to go to Sydney, roughly the same distance as the first one. Only when we get back to Sydney this time can we tidy it up and say we've done the circumnavigation the more elegant way, starting from Sydney in April 2008. By Berrimilla on February 18, 2010, at 1743 UTC
Position 0630 18th 4351 11815, trip 149, DMGDistance Made Good; More here 137. Too good to be true. Anxiously scanning the horizon for the ExaminerShe who asks awkward questions of the crew and tests them with difficult tasks. but the gribWeather files. Graphics in Binary file: GRIB files associate a specific weather datum (eg wind velocity or atmospheric pressure) with a geographic position. Because the resulting file is a collection of these points they are extremely small and so ideal over slow links such as sailmail. predicts more of the same for three days or so. Hmm! Less than 2 Berrimilla Units to go – 1194 miles to the waypointA fixed location with specified latitude and longtitude co-ordinates maintained by GPS, 1241 to SE CapeThe southernmost point of the main island of Tasmania. For an instant or two in a couple of days time, at about 4406 S 12636 E the magnetic variation will be Zero as we cross the transit from the true north pole to the north magnetic pole. Up in the North West passageThe Northwest Passage is a sea route through the Arctic Ocean, along the northern coast of North America via waterways amidst the Canadian Arctic Archipelago, connecting the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. More here. near Devon Island, it was nearly 90 degrees. By Berrimilla on February 19, 2010, at 1731 UTC
Position 0630 19th 4338 12104, Trip 125, DMGDistance Made Good; More here
120. 1075 to Maatsuuyker, 1122 to SEcCape. By Berrimilla on February 20, 2010, at 1724 UTC
Position 0630 20th 4349 12353, trip 129, DMGDistance Made Good; More here 124. Progress – 999 to SE CapeThe southernmost point of the main island of Tasmania. The ExaminerShe who asks awkward questions of the crew and tests them with difficult tasks. is back from the broom cupboard, dishevelled and feeling guilty that she's neglected her duty for so long. The 'mild' low to the south of us is giving us a steady 30 – 40 knots with huge breaking seas – vast vertical walls of translucent power and beauty – breaking along the tops and each one threatening to swamp the old barge. Tiny spot of headsail, KevvoStainless steel self steering device, built by Kevin Fleming, used on Berrimilla and countless others in charge. We take off down the faces at 9+ knots – Scary but seems better to be moving reasonably fast with the waves – you can only sit all grackly and watch and wait for the next one to come rolling through – and the next. And then there are the cross waves that come in occasionally and amplify the dominant swells and they really arrive with attitude. Bright sunlight between clumpy Cu and the sea a brilliant deep blue on one side of the boat and lighter, greenish blue on the other. No sign of it blowing out – I think we have got to sit through at least another six hours or so before it abates and the seas start to go down. Poo! It's going to be a long trip from here. Now gone thick overcast – rolling Cu and rain squalls. Sea almost black with glowing white breakers. Lovely if it wasn't so threatening. Albatrosses yesterday – at least three big Snowy or NZ, not fully mature with lovely bright black and white plumage, and a really young one, black with a white face and white underside. I have their photos. Greetings noble Blatt. The S2HSydney-Hobart Race: often described as the most gruelling ocean race in the world, this annual race starts on 26th December from Sydney Harbour and ends in Hobart. The course is 628 nautical miles. doco is not bad – I've seen it a couple of times. Hard to believe that we were out there. By Stephen on February 21, 2010, at 1700 UTC
By Berrimilla on February 21, 2010, at 1756 UTC
Psitiion 0630 21st 4345 12337, trip 124, DMGDistance Made Good; More here 117. Chequered progress – sunshine, rain, gale, big rolling swells, short, vicious lumpy seas – roll up, roll up, come for a trip in the old Bucket in the Bight – thrills, nailbiting, chunder gaslore. Pete's daughter, SarahPete Crozier's daughter is 30 today! Happy Birthday SarahPete Crozier's daughter! All y'all Consult and send happy vibes. MJC – tks for whalers. By Berrimilla on February 22, 2010, at 1253 UTC
Been a bit overwhelmed for a day or so. Wind great in the progress sense but keeping Berri together and hooningAs far as I can gather, if Berri were a horse, she’d have the bit between her teeth to be hooning in these seas is a touch unrelenting and the grackling and clenchening keeps the decrepit metabolism working in high gear. Not quite 'not having fun' cos we are moving towards towards the flaky paint and rusty hinges but wearying. Anyone seen the moon recently? Or the sun? I think we're on the wrong planet – will extract old faithful MerlinMerlin calculator to get some times. Bashing through the ogOgginOggin: naval slang for the sea, the ocean, where you go if you fall overboard…: naval slang for the sea, the ocean, where you go if you fall overboard… we were earlier, black squally night, occasional glimpses of brilliantly sparkling stars. Vaguely aware of new banging thump, intermittent, sporadic – seemed to be coming from stbd q-berth so put it down to movement of bags of food cans and empty fuel drums squashed in there. A bigger roll than usual (meaning a very big one indeed) bigger crash and all the lights, instruments, electrics generally karked. Dark dark but for faint glow of some LEDs and the USB gadget powered by the computer. Dooon't Paaanic! Reach for blue towel, wake Pete and start closing everything down and begin diagnosis. No radio (connected directly to the battery, bypassing the isolation switch), no engine start from either battery, no wind generator, lights, instruments. Oddly, some LED indicators on switch panel still working along with 12v dc outlets. Unpack q-berth to get at main battery box, nothing obvious, big shunt connections ok – 12.7 v from each battery so – phew! – we haven't cooked them – then a big lurch and the two big batteries and all their rats nest of wiring moved a couple of centimetres inside the battery box. That's it! The new crashing noise. Feel and prod all the terminals and massive wires and Eureka! the main negative lead runs from the terminal through a slot cut into the top of the rear side of the battery box and off to the shunt and it has parted inside the insulation over the crimp to the spade terminal. A classic stress fracture – the end of the 8mm copper wire looked just like a bit of brown cheese. While still held together inside the insulation there must have been just enough current to keep those LED's glowing. Here endeth the lesson for the day. By Berrimilla on February 22, 2010, at 1811 UTC
Position 0630 22nd 4314 12913, trip 118, DMGDistance Made Good; More here 110 – mildly astonishing given the meanderings and wobbly winds but there we are. If we can keep 5 kts on the clock we should make Maatsuuyker by Sunday. Not too hopeful at this stage. GroupamaIn this context a massive trimaran attempting a round-the-world record for the Jules Verne Trophy. They overtook us twice – once before we reached Cape Town on their first attempt which they abandoned after damaging a hull. They preceded us into Cape Town and we visited them there. They sailed back to France and set off again and overtook us way to the south before we reached Hobart. More about Groupama here (Wikipedia) will be a green flash beyond our southern horizon in the next 24 hours or so. Young, black on top and white faced albatross still around and a smaller one – looks like a black brow but isn't – and prions all over the place. I've just been asked to do a short article for the Friends of the Pitt Rivers Museum newsletter – a bunch of readers whose towering erudition leaves me quaking and awestruck – long story but to do with the alcohol token, a coin substitute, that has been accepted from my sister by the PRM. Odd though because I once shared a house with someone who later became quite respectable and went off to Oxford to become the Director (don't know his proper title) of the PRM, which up till I learned about his appointment I had never heard of. Circles in the sand. ———- By Berrimilla on February 23, 2010, at 1347 UTC
Groupama3 will overtake us today. I've been in touch with the navigator, Stan Honey, who is a friend – talking to him is a bit like talking to LeroyLeroy ChiaoLeroy Chiao: International Space Station Commander, Expedition 10, at time Berrimilla first made contact. Bio here.: International Space Station Commander, Expedition 10, at time Berrimilla first made contact. Bio here. Chiao in the International Space Station – same concept, we're both circling the earth, only the technology is different. G3 will pass us at about the same distance as LeroyLeroy ChiaoLeroy Chiao: International Space Station Commander, Expedition 10, at time Berrimilla first made contact. Bio here.: International Space Station Commander, Expedition 10, at time Berrimilla first made contact. Bio here. and they are going nearly as fast. A shame we won't see them as they flash by. More circles in the sand – this really all began with LeroyLeroy ChiaoLeroy Chiao: International Space Station Commander, Expedition 10, at time Berrimilla first made contact. Bio here.: International Space Station Commander, Expedition 10, at time Berrimilla first made contact. Bio here.. By Berrimilla on February 23, 2010, at 1749 UTC
Position 0630 23rd 4318 13209, trip 132, DMGDistance Made Good; More here
128 and 640 to SE CapeThe southernmost point of the main island of Tasmania – only 1 BU to go and the weather looks kind for the next couple of days at least. New gribWeather files.
Graphics in Binary file: GRIB files associate a specific weather datum (eg wind velocity or atmospheric pressure) with a geographic position. Because the resulting file is a collection of these points they are extremely small and so ideal over slow links such as sailmail. when send this. By Berrimilla on February 24, 2010, at 0041 UTC
From a friend in the UK – I thought it ought to be shared: 3 Record Breakers potentially……just thought I'd let you know that in Yep! Thanks Sue – noiceAlexism for quite a lot of things which taste good or are going especially well indeed! But the ExaminerShe who asks awkward questions of the crew and tests them with difficult tasks. still lurks, even on long finals. By Berrimilla on February 24, 2010, at 1333 UTC
I have just received a deputation purporting to represent all the colonies of feralsInteresting biological colonies that grow and fester in seaboots. There are left foot ferals and right foot ferals and occasionally they get to cross breed and create fierce hybrids. now prolificating around the place – the original booties and the baggies, pit, crutchies, mouldies, foodies, dry suit sweaties, boggies, bilgebotties and the rest. They wished to make clear that they take a very dim view of the fact that Tasmania is just Over There and they indicated their intention to emigrate en masse at the first opportunity in Hobart. I told them I'd find them a noiceAlexism for quite a lot of things which taste good or are going especially well Kiwi boat (just their style) or maybe even a CSIROCommonwealth Scientific and Industrial Research Organisation research vessel so some real science can be done – and point them in the right direction. Mollification seems to have occurred and they departed to their grots apparently happy. I hear the sounds of trunks and suitcases being dragged from the depths. They asked me to say farewell to all y'all and thank you for all those bits of flaky skin and bogeys and scrofules and stuff that they know you've been teleporting out here for them to feast on – so all y'all Merci et au revoir from les Feraux. I have a feeling they won't all go and we may have company in the future but I haven't let on that I think it would be a better boat if some of them did stay. We'll see. Corey D – if you're out there – Very Special G'day! We're almost at the opposite end of the earth down here but thinking of you. You were one of those people without whom the NW passage transit would have been so much more difficult. Thanks! I'll try to stay in better touch. Other feralsInteresting biological colonies that grow and fester in seaboots. There are left foot ferals and right foot ferals and occasionally they get to cross breed and create fierce hybrids.: I have just seen what I think was a sunfish, about as big as a small car, one high aspect ratio triangular fin and a blob. Masses of smaller birds – lots of Black Bellied Storm Petrels, a small flock of prions and possibly some Gould's Petrels. The albatross yesterday was a black brow after all – it came close enough to get a better look. Paul D – the big albatrosses are almost indistinguishable from eachother as you know – the transition from fledgling to mature has so many variations across the species that a guess is as good as it gets. I've got perhaps 500 raw file photos (very high definition)if you or anyone wants to play with them. Each pic's metadata will allow me to locate the pic within a few miles if that's important but I will have to do it by comparison with the boat's nav data – the Nik predates the GPS versions. Just been sorting a flag hoist for the DerwentThe Derwent is a river in Tasmania, Australia. Its large estuary forms the port of Hobart. – top to bottom: UK, Ireland (with Royal Cork YC and RNLIRoyal National Lifeboat Institution (UK & Ireland). Run mostly by volunteers, heroes all. burgees) Portugal, South Africa and TAAF Kerguelen (Terres Australes et Antarctiques Francaises). Plus Berri's well travelled Q flag. The big hoist will be for Sydney, covering both voyages. All the flags should be in Hobart ready for us and top to bottom should be NZ, Chile, Argentina, Falklands, UK, RANSARoyal Australian Navy Sailing Association; a sailing club located in Sydney, Australia. burgee (representing Australia), USA, Alaska, Canada, Inuvut, Greenland, Cornwall (representing UK the second time) and as above from Ireland, minus the Q. 18 all together unless I've forgotten any – and unique. If I can find the 2009 FastnetFastnet Race: 608 mile biennial race from Cowes, UK, Isle of Wight, to the Fastnet Rock off Southern Ireland, finishing in Plymouth. Berrimilla took part in 2005 and 2009. battle flag, we'll hoist that one too. By Berrimilla on February 24, 2010, at 1426 UTC
I would love to have a copy of Joan Baez singing a ballad that I think had the word 'Juniper' in the title, with the chorus 'There but for fortune go you or go I' – it's about the results of too much gin, actually and I think appropriate for the flag hoist. I tried to find one last time I was in New York, in an amazing record shop and no go. The shop had just about everything else although not the last live gig she did with Dylan (yes please if you've got that too!). Does anyone know what album it's on? Better still, does anyone have a copy? Song or album? And are you willing to send it to me? If so, could you please tell me via berrimilla2 at gmail. If you have a copy, I'll finger you to send it to my personal gmail. Thanks! By Berrimilla on February 24, 2010, at 1734 UTC
Position 0630 24th 4311 13502, trip 129, DMGDistance Made Good; More here 124 and SE CapeThe southernmost point of the main island of Tasmania 516 miles. Well inside the last 628 miles, the last Berrimilla Unit. If we were actually sailing the S2HSydney-Hobart Race: often described as the most gruelling ocean race in the world, this annual race starts on 26th December from Sydney Harbour and ends in Hobart. The course is 628 nautical miles. course, we'd be down approaching Bateman's Bay. From here, it's just a matter of time. Metre by metre, and climb over the white lines in the road. The sun's out and we had the last 2 Cape Town eggs and 4 of the last 8 slices of bacon with our breakfast dose from the good Doctor from Dublin. Wooohoooa primitive, exultant, gibbon-like call given out by an old geezerDictionaries define a geezer as an old person, generally an eccentric old man. Its origin likely in the word masquerader (colloquially, guiser) from Middle English gysar. Go figure, as the Americans say.; many variations as listed, in order of emphasis: Woohoo Woooohooo WOOOHOOO WOOOHOOO! WOOOOOOOOHOOOOOOOOOa primitive, exultant, gibbon-like call given out by an old geezerDictionaries define a geezer as an old person, generally an eccentric old man. Its origin likely in the word masquerader (colloquially, guiser) from Middle English gysar. Go figure, as the Americans say.; many variations as listed, in order of emphasis: Woohoo Woooohooo WOOOHOOO WOOOHOOO! WOOOOOOOOHOOOOOOOOO!!. Pete's out in the cockpit in his shorts scraping off the scales. By Berrimilla on February 25, 2010, at 0010 UTC
Doziness and old fartery prevalent, I'm afraid. Seems my memory ain't so good and I've mixed two Baez songs – probably why I couldn't find the one I thought I was looking for in NY…The Juniper one is 'Copper Kettle' and it's about making illegal whisky so I was at least partly right. The other starts 'Show me the prison…' Thanks izzAlex's sister and sorry if I've sent all y'all chasing feathered feralsInteresting biological colonies that grow and fester in seaboots. There are left foot ferals and right foot ferals and occasionally they get to cross breed and create fierce hybrids.. We're under 500 to go, but it's going to be slooooow – trickling along at 2 – 3 kts, almost no breeze. 6 days at this rate. By Stephen on February 25, 2010, at 1022 UTC
While the economies of our respective countries crumble further from Berri-induced inactivity, here’s a link to the song Alex would like for Flag Hoist – on Youtube. Something to listen to as we wait for them to saunter in to Hobart. http://www.youtube.com/watch? provided by Iz in the UK
By Berrimilla on February 25, 2010, at 1142 UTC
Baez – thanks to everyone who sent me lyrics and I can see now how the neurons got in a twist. My imaginary version that combined the two songs would have been ideal – hey look at those silly old wrinklies in that daggy old boat, that's what happens to you when you hit the gin bottle – pity. We'll have to revert to Berri's original marching song, Marshall Riley's Army by Lindisfarne – rousing stuff but a different message. Why that one? Riley's grand daughter sailed back from our first Lord Howe race with us about 12 years ago and I have the lyrics in her own handwriting. 470 miles to SE CapeThe southernmost point of the main island of Tasmania and then about 50 into Hobart. Which way – D'Entrecasteaux Channel or Adventure Bay and the Iron PotA small island lying close to the south-eastern coast of Tasmania around the entrance to the River DerwentThe Derwent is a river in Tasmania, Australia. Its large estuary forms the port of Hobart. . It is the site of Tasmania’s first lighthouse. – will depend on the weather and timing. And the trip odometer is at 13990 – coo! But don't anyone forget that we only get a few days off in Hobart and then into what could still be the most difficult leg of the whole voyage up to Sydney. It will be my 15th time, I think. Blatt – thanks, but I don't need the vinyl. The gig with Dylan, perhaps, if that's out there somewhere. Later – moving again, twin poledAn explanation from Malcolm: It is quite normal for a yacht to 'pole out' its jib (the foresail) on the opposite side of the boat to the mainsail when running downwind - this is called goosewinging'. A spinnaker pole is attached to the mast at one end and the back corner (clew) of the jib at the other. That holds the jib at the right angle so that it catches the wind. On Berri they've found that they can often get good performance and a comfortable ride by taking the mainsail right down and setting a second jib poled out on the opposite side to the first., barn doorMetaphor for whatever we were aiming at. Derived from the saying “Couldn’t hit a barn door at five paces” used to describe anyone who can’t shoot straight. bound @ 6kt. By Berrimilla on February 25, 2010, at 1732 UTC
Position 0630 25th 4323 13725, trip 108, DMGDistance Made Good; More here
106, 416 to SE CapeThe southernmost point of the main island of Tasmania – about 4 days or Monday March 1st ish. We cracked 14000 miles from Falmouth too – final total will be about 14xxx. Anyone care to guess exactly? Carla, have a great ride, say g'day to Lerizhan from his successor, Elpinkbokkerkergybat and us lot. Keep us posted! By Berrimilla on February 26, 2010, at 0718 UTC
When you've only got three neurons to bang together they tend to concatenate stuff – viz. the Baez Juniper fiasco. When I wrote about the flag hoist for Sydney a few blogs ago, Inuvut should have read Nunavut. My apologies – all three synapses in a twist. And I'll have to find that poem, Margy. Andrew – not half as much as I'm going to miss it! But the fat lady isn't on stage quite yet – there are the small matters of the ExaminerShe who asks awkward questions of the crew and tests them with difficult tasks., 380 miles to SE CapeThe southernmost point of the main island of Tasmania and then another 650 or so up the coast against the current to Sydney. Bloggery will happen for a bit longer yet. Corey – great to hear from you – I'll send you an inflatable globe with Berri's voyages on it for the kids. I'd forgotten the microwaved potato! Wish you hadn't reminded me actually – right now I'd love a baked spud with cheese and bacon and black pepper and a pinch of salt but it will have to wait at least 4 days. And a Hobart scallop pie would be grouse too. Sue – ElPinko likes the feralsInteresting biological colonies that grow and fester in seaboots. There are left foot ferals and right foot ferals and occasionally they get to cross breed and create fierce hybrids. – keeps muttering about symbiosis but I reckon they just tickle the erogenous bits. Chris P – we'll be ok for diesel. If you or anyone else is planning to come out to meet us, SE CapeThe southernmost point of the main island of Tasmania lateish on Sunday looks the go from here – sorry if it's inconvenient. By Berrimilla on February 26, 2010, at 1726 UTC
Position 0630 26th 4336 14004, trip 119, DMGDistance Made Good; More here
115. ———- By Berrimilla on February 27, 2010, at 0152 UTC
We snuck through the rabbit proof fence – chain mail, red strobes, KEEP OUT notices in Rabbit, Macca wrappers blowin in the wind against the fence, but we're in – Australian territorial waters. Yeeehhhhwooo! Sort of thing. 260 to go to SE CapeThe southernmost point of the main island of Tasmania so Monday morning subject to the ExaminerShe who asks awkward questions of the crew and tests them with difficult tasks.'s next whipcrack – a 30-40 knot-- Speed: definition of speed at sea. One knot is one nautical mile per hour. The nautical mile is about 1.15 % longer than the "statute" mile used on land. A knot is about half a metre per second. -- A knot is also the result of winding a rope around itself or another rope to make a join or a loop . SWesterly on Sunday arve and evening as we get to Maatsuuyker which puts us on a nasty lee shore all along the south coast of Tasmania in what could be an ugly sea. Coo! Here we go again! Right now, TurnerTurner, John Mallord William (1775 - 1851); one of the founders of English watercolour painting renowned for his studies of sea and sky in every weather reigns – big moon behind straggly cloud scudding across the sky – wispy cloud, black with silver edges, rolling sparkling reflection off a short spiky sea over the top of the usual big SW swell that just keeps rolling along. ———- By Berrimilla on February 27, 2010, at 0457 UTC
It must have been early, near the start of this last leg from Cape Town to Hobart. I remember I was sitting on the leeward cockpit seat with my feet on the edge of the opposite seat to brace myself against the roll of the boat. I was probably reading one of the numerous "whodunits" we have on board, the sun was out, I had my shorts on. At the end of a reading pause, for that read, "vacant nap", I returned to the real world. With chin resting on chest, the first thing I noticed was this wrinkled skin hanging beneath what used to be a calf muscle. Lazily gazing at this it reminded me of a deflated party balloon you might notice hanging in a corner of the room a month or so after the function. I leaned down and pinched it, there was no meat there. The muscle had shrunk remarkably, alarmed,I tried the other leg, same thing you could get a 2 inch pinch of loose skin. By Berrimilla on February 27, 2010, at 1247 UTC
Even the ExaminerShe who asks awkward questions of the crew and tests them with difficult tasks.'s almost last little roll of the die for this bit of the journey anyway. The nearest point of Tassie is 170 miles away and I'm beginning to feel that we just might make it. Wow! And then the quiet satisfaction of knowing we've done something a bit unusual and unique. That satisfaction, that gentle pleasure will last, but the exhilaration, the euphoria that perhaps you who are reading this might expect will be flattened by the knowledge that it's almost over and the buzz will not last. And then the tidy up – the papers, the photos, articles and the rest that will keep it alive for a bit longer. And back to work, if anyone will have me on the premises. So what's unique? End of self indulgent boast for the day. We're not there yet and it hasn't happened but once we're in, this won't get written. By Stephen on February 27, 2010, at 1400 UTC
By Berrimilla on February 27, 2010, at 1752 UTC
Position 0630 27th 4346 14238, trip 116, DMGDistance Made Good; More here
112, SE CapeThe southernmost point of the main island of Tasmania 183 miles then about 60 into Hobart. Given the forecast, we won't hang about around Recherche or Adventure but will head up the D'Entrecasteaux Channel. By Berrimilla on February 28, 2010, at 0223 UTC
What a night! Possibly our last one out of sight of land – three quarter moon, big rolling swells with broken reflections constantly changing, Berri's bow wave surging past making a harder line angling away into the moonshine and flicking reflections off the spray. Wispy clouds, high ice crystals in layers to the south, the Southern CrossDefining constellation in Southern hemisphere piercing the frosty haze above the masthead. Only a few first mag. stars visible. No Milky Way – just glowing haze. Hooooning. Later – And so enter the ExaminerShe who asks awkward questions of the crew and tests them with difficult tasks. – there I was prodding this thing doing the lyrical wax and suddenly the world goes awry. Berri sideways, water surging past my left ear on the other side of the window. Big wind – roll in headsail, slow everything down. Except that the heady won't roll (and if it won't, never ever try to winch it – find out what's wrong first) – so we've got this huge sail poled out in 30 knots and rooster tails blasting past the cockpit as I go forward to try to work out what's wrong – but I think I already know – and so it is – the top of the furlerA device fitted around the length of the forestay(s) of a sailing yacht that enables the crew to roll the headsail partially around the forestay and so make its effective area smaller (the same as reefing) or to roll it up completely (furling it). The sail would be furled when at anchor or otherwise not being used. There is a full description here . has fouled the outer forestay and sorting that will be tricky. Wake Pete and with a bit of give and take, twiddle and muddle we get it free and gybeGybe - A sailing term for turning the boat so that the stern passes through the wind. Potentially dangerous if not controlled because the wind can fill an uncontrolled mainsail from the wrong side and crash it across the boat, possibly causing damage to the rig and anyone getting in the way. and – hooooning again, barn doorMetaphor for whatever we were aiming at. Derived from the saying “Couldn’t hit a barn door at five paces” used to describe anyone who can’t shoot straight. in the frame. By Berrimilla on February 28, 2010, at 0741 UTC
Well known Australian bush ballad, played this morning by Macca, no doubt because the CooperCoopersCoopers Sparkling Ale: - according to Alex: “brewed in the bottle, so a bit of sludge comes with it - best beer on the planet - beats a Pan Galactic Gargleblaster hands down”. Also a home brew from a Cooper’s Kit, perfected by onboard master-brewer Pete. See Pete’s interesting equation Sparkling Ale: - according to Alex: “brewed in the bottle, so a bit of sludge comes with it - best beer on the planet - beats a Pan Galactic Gargleblaster hands down”. Also a home brew from a Cooper’s Kit, perfected by onboard master-brewer Pete. See Pete’s interesting equation really is coming down after the rains in central Australia. One of the lines is 'I'll go dancing with the Brolgas when the CooperCoopersCoopers Sparkling Ale: - according to Alex: “brewed in the bottle, so a bit of sludge comes with it - best beer on the planet - beats a Pan Galactic Gargleblaster hands down”. Also a home brew from a Cooper’s Kit, perfected by onboard master-brewer Pete. See Pete’s interesting equation Sparkling Ale: - according to Alex: “brewed in the bottle, so a bit of sludge comes with it - best beer on the planet - beats a Pan Galactic Gargleblaster hands down”. Also a home brew from a Cooper’s Kit, perfected by onboard master-brewer Pete. See Pete’s interesting equation 's coming down'. By Berrimilla on February 28, 2010, at 1148 UTC
Last night at sea out of sight of land, I said. Nope. This little doozy is nasty – 35 – 45 knot-- Speed: definition of speed at sea. One knot is one nautical mile per hour. The nautical mile is about 1.15 % longer than the "statute" mile used on land. A knot is about half a metre per second. -- A knot is also the result of winding a rope around itself or another rope to make a join or a loop . SW gustsShort increases in wind speed – or people who signed the Gust Book. over 10+ metre swells and they are breaking with attitude. We have slowed right down, tiny bit of furlerA device fitted around the length of the forestay(s) of a sailing yacht that enables the crew to roll the headsail partially around the forestay and so make its effective area smaller (the same as reefing) or to roll it up completely (furling it). The sail would be furled when at anchor or otherwise not being used. There is a full description here . on the pole and we are just trying to ride it out. A couple of near knockdowns and I had to eat my lunch (last 2 slices of bacon fried in olive oil with a can of baby corn cobs – ok if that’s all you’ve got, though the can was a bit chewy!) standing strapped into the galley. Way too hairy anywhere else. The system is taking us ENE and as we really don’t want to be driven into Taswegia’s lee shore, missing the barn doorMetaphor for whatever we were aiming at. Derived from the saying “Couldn’t hit a barn door at five paces” used to describe anyone who can’t shoot straight. completely we will just wait it out where we have sea room. It’s supposed to ease any time now but there’s no sign of it yet. Tedious in the extreme. Once it does ease we’ll be reasonably set to prod the door open once we can reach it. Macca this morning left me feeling dull and slow witted – what do you think about out there? Duh! Shoulda’ said life, the universe, everything, what’s the question? why 42?. Anyway… [The interview with Macca is here (mn 4:20 to 13:05)] By Berrimilla on February 28, 2010, at 1847 UTC
Position 0740 UTC 28th 4342 14527. By Berrimilla on March 1, 2010, at 0045 UTC
Moon in and out of black looming clouds. Maatsuyker light loud and clear on the port bow – W fl(3)30sec16ml – and I've spoken to Hobart Coast Radio on the VHFVery High Frequency radio. Short range radio equipment for voice and other applications such as AISAutomatic Identification System. An automatic tracking system used on ships and by vessel traffic services (VTS) for identifying and locating vessels.. – there's a repeater on Maatsuyker. SW Cape in the moonlight to the north and I can see Maatsuyker Island but not the Mewstone to the south of it. We'll thread the needle and I think that's the Barn DoorMetaphor for whatever we were aiming at. Derived from the saying “Couldn’t hit a barn door at five paces” used to describe anyone who can’t shoot straight.. So we're here, sort of. Still about 100 to go to get to the Royal Yacht Club of Tasmania, so perhaps 20 hours before we get an official handshake with Dr CooperCoopersCoopers Sparkling Ale: - according to Alex: “brewed in the bottle, so a bit of sludge comes with it - best beer on the planet - beats a Pan Galactic Gargleblaster hands down”. Also a home brew from a Cooper’s Kit, perfected by onboard master-brewer Pete. See Pete’s interesting equation Sparkling Ale: - according to Alex: “brewed in the bottle, so a bit of sludge comes with it - best beer on the planet - beats a Pan Galactic Gargleblaster hands down”. Also a home brew from a Cooper’s Kit, perfected by onboard master-brewer Pete. See Pete’s interesting equation CoopersCoopers Sparkling Ale: - according to Alex: “brewed in the bottle, so a bit of sludge comes with it - best beer on the planet - beats a Pan Galactic Gargleblaster hands down”. Also a home brew from a Cooper’s Kit, perfected by onboard master-brewer Pete. See Pete’s interesting equation Sparkling Ale: - according to Alex: “brewed in the bottle, so a bit of sludge comes with it - best beer on the planet - beats a Pan Galactic Gargleblaster hands down”. Also a home brew from a CooperCoopersCoopers Sparkling Ale: - according to Alex: “brewed in the bottle, so a bit of sludge comes with it - best beer on the planet - beats a Pan Galactic Gargleblaster hands down”. Also a home brew from a Cooper’s Kit, perfected by onboard master-brewer Pete. See Pete’s interesting equation Sparkling Ale: - according to Alex: “brewed in the bottle, so a bit of sludge comes with it - best beer on the planet - beats a Pan Galactic Gargleblaster hands down”. Also a home brew from a Cooper’s Kit, perfected by onboard master-brewer Pete. See Pete’s interesting equation ’s Kit, perfected by onboard master-brewer Pete. See Pete’s interesting equation . I know at least one hardy soul has braved the weather and is waiting in Southport to escort us into town. A BrolgaBerrimilla is a Brolga 33 designed by Peter JoubertJoubert, Peter: mechnical engineer, specialising in fluid mechanics, now retired. Highly respected sailor and designer of the Brolga and other yachts; many mentions but see 115; Pete’s meeting with him, 122. For specs, see here owner too but sort of ex – he needed a bigger boat…no accounting for taste! We will ask permission to let off a couple of white flares when we cross our outward track in the DerwentThe Derwent is a river in Tasmania, Australia. Its large estuary forms the port of Hobart. and so complete the NWPThe Northwest Passage is a sea route through the Arctic Ocean, along the northern coast of North America via waterways amidst the Canadian Arctic Archipelago, connecting the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. More here. circumnavigation and all that other stuff. Just like last time! Then Customs and the paperwork and perhaps a real bed tonight. John, thanks for message and Landcruiser. Don't need anything thanks – I'll call you when we're in mobile range. Still a horrible sea – really big waves but they have stopped breaking and the wind is back to 20. Now for SE CapeThe southernmost point of the main island of Tasmania and the D'Entrecasteaux Channel – we'll wave to Recherche as we pass – and to Adventure on the other side across the sandspit. The forecast for tomorrow is lousy and we need to keep moving. Pity – I'd have liked to anchor once again in CookBritish explorer, navigator, cartographer, and captain in the Royal Navy. He made 3 voyages to the Pacific Ocean, during which he achieved the first recorded European contact with the eastern coastline of Australia and the Hawaiian Islands, and the first recorded circumnavigation of New Zealand. More on wikipedia.'s track. Thanks to everyone who has sent us nice messages – even you FenwickA friend and clearly a colourful character – have you washed since we last saw you? There will be photos and the bloggery will continue while we are in Hobart – don't all go away! Longish to-do list but nothing huge unless we find anything when we go up on the slip. Gordy, if you are reading this, what was that antifoul again? Text my Oz mobile +61418243600 please. By Berrimilla on March 1, 2010, at 1022 UTC
We surfed past Whale Head, just east of SE CapeThe southernmost point of the main island of Tasmania on some of the biggest waves I've ever seen – and very short wavelength. We are on the 90 metre depth line and the big SW Southern Ocean swells are climbing the shelf and amplifying, just like surf on a beach. Yeeehaaa – exciting. Tiny heady poled out and the engine running in case it gets really pearshaped. We must avoid the Deepwater Banks just to our north, where these monsters break. By Berrimilla on March 1, 2010, at 1750 UTC
In the DerwentThe Derwent is a river in Tasmania, Australia. Its large estuary forms the port of Hobart. 4 miles to go. Permission was granted for the flares and pics will be posted – but we forgot to release the checkstay – duuuh – so Berri will look awful. Pink thingy in the rig with the flags and lots of photos. Chris arrived at Southport to scort us up the channel to the DerwentThe Derwent is a river in Tasmania, Australia. Its large estuary forms the port of Hobart. and Malcolm has just arrived in Wildfire – super tweaky Farr30 to get us the last few miles. Malcom steered Berri to the finish of a couple – at least – Hobarts – cos he's good and he lives here. And so it came to pass. Quarantine bods due as we arrive at RYCTRoyal Yacht Club of Tasmania, Customs have asked us to sit tight for them because they are out at the airport. Lots more to come but I'm just a bit busy. And not a little weary. I'll try to get some photos up tomorrow. Love yez all and thanks for being out there – special thanks to all those who have been following silently as it were but have written in to say how sad they will be when it ends. So will we, but that's a few weeks away yet. By Stephen on March 1, 2010, at 1945 UTC
Macca has a radio show on Sunday mornings across Australia, not surprisingly called “Australia All Over”. He has called Berri a few times, and here is the latest link to the sat phone interview with Macca on ABC Radio. Alex & Peter are from 4:20 to 13:05. By Stephen on March 1, 2010, at 2132 UTC
By Berrimilla on March 2, 2010, at 2128 UTC
Lots more to come – takes for ever to edit and convert…arrival and flares from Wayfarer 2 when I get the cd tomoz. By Berrimilla on March 4, 2010, at 2148 UTC
Courtesy Dave Davey and Chris Palmer in Wayfarer 2. – afraid they are not in chronological order but you'll get the idea. By Berrimilla on March 4, 2010, at 2153 UTC
Those of you who know the DerwentThe Derwent is a river in Tasmania, Australia. Its large estuary forms the port of Hobart. will see the Iron PotA small island lying close to the south-eastern coast of Tasmania around the entrance to the River DerwentThe Derwent is a river in Tasmania, Australia. Its large estuary forms the port of Hobart. . It is the site of Tasmania’s first lighthouse. in the background in one of the lfare pics. By Berrimilla on March 5, 2010, at 0711 UTC
A bit of grass and some goose barnaclesExplanation here (Wikipedia) along for the ride. Today we antifoul. By Berrimilla on March 6, 2010, at 1830 UTC
Some full on days – but we seem to be ready except for some shopping Photos self explanatory. The hoist, top to bottom is NZ, Chile, If we get away Monday and the ExaminerShe who asks awkward questions of the crew and tests them with difficult tasks. is kind we could be in Sydney But you all know how it is! Looking forward to another coming home party. And we will tyry to By Berrimilla on March 7, 2010, at 1808 UTC
The photo is Cape Horn – just for fun. Looks like we'll leave Hobart about 0900 tomoz. Mark Dawson and Peter Campbell have been stirring the local media and ABC, Mercury and Southern CrossDefining constellation in Southern hemisphere have been to talk to us (me only, unfortunately – Pete was up the hill wiring a roof…) and ABC will probably run the story tonight, tho perhaps not nationally. Hoping to get to Sydney by the weekend, ExaminerShe who asks awkward questions of the crew and tests them with difficult tasks. permitting. Keep em crossed – we'll run out of medicinal compound if it drags on. Will keep one for passing WollongongThe town which moves. There is a Berri-joke about having a beer off Wollongong on the return trip from Hobart - and how Wollongong seems to move further south each year.. Carla, were you home or still in Abilene? a. |
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