1st circumnavigation

Sep 06, 2005 - 2130hrs UTC

By Alex on September 6, 2005, at 2130 UTC

Topic(s): Computer crashes

2130hrs 06 Sep 2005 UTC 19’56”N 025’32”W Ref 336

Well Gra has joined the OGC whilst we, a nanospot upon the vast pachydermal curve, spent the day drenched in sweat battling for every metre – one down now is one less later. P,P,P & P with Pee the colour of best Darjeeling and a widdly dribble at that. There’s a tiny African moth running around on the screen as I write – Senegalese or Gambian perhaps. Spends its time running up the screen, flying to the bottom and running up again – Sisyphus the Moff? Or was it someone else condemned to roll a peanut up a slope with his nose?

Was thinking, if that’s the word, about the Tao and uncarved blocks – Michaelangelo said that he released his figures from their blocks of marble and there’s an unfinished work in Florence where the figure is – amazingly – emerging from the surrounding marble. Stunning Renaissance magic, but the Taoist scholar might have asked ‘But, lao Mike, why that figure? Why did you choose that one from the infinite millions that were in the block before you started to mess with it? Wouldn’t it have been better to have left them all there?’ The yin and the yang approaches – the classical and the romantic, the road not travelled. Why do I foist this twaddle upon you all?

I have carefully collected a sample of what it probably Mauretania – there was a film of dust on the solar panel and I have it in a bag – looks like mud, rather than the red dust that lives under the eyelids in remoter Oz.

We have the engine going again – sultry hazy night, still drenched in sweat, dripping into my lap as i sit here slaving away.

From Allan Fenwick

I do hope you know I’m only having a bit of fun with you straight laced buggers, Now your knocking my spelling, yes the louisiades, don’t you know engrish when you see it. 6 months of sun and fun, and no I’m not taking Gordon, I still haven’t forgiven himfor the gay thing, but his broken nose has healed but a bit still a bit bent. Keep sailing ,Africa on the left and south America on the right for a little while yet then turn left, I will let you know when, email me if you get lost and I will send new instructions if you can understand my spelling.

Fenwick, I was really worried there for a moment – thought you really cared – ah well. Sorry to hear Gordo misbehaved yet again.

Two more USB crashes today – have worked out a slightly more effective procedure for rebuilding the thing – at least, I think I have. But desperately, screamingly, ragingly infuriatingly frustrating – and having to insert the bloody dongle every time to get CMap up seems so unnecessary and just another device to give it the yips. As it does. All y’all should be proud of my forbearance and tolerance – the temptation to hit it with my metaphorical rifle butt is very strong.

1-19. Senegal and Pete's Birthday

Sep 07, 2005 - 0430hrs UTC

By Alex and Peter on September 7, 2005, at 0430 UTC

0430hrs 07 Sep 2005 UTC 19’32”N 025’38”W Ref 337

From Pete:

Hello out there,

It’s about 2,am the the engine has stopped and were now sailing goose-winged with about 8-10 kts from the north.

To the right across the pond you can hear the steel band playing outside the “Admiral’s Inn”, you can smell the rum as its poured over the ice in a long tall glass, the ice cracks as the warm rum hits it…..AAAAAHH….the tropics again. During the day the air is hazy, heavy, humid and hot but tonight we have a beautiful warm breeze helping the Berri slide along at a steady 3.5 – 4 knots. Not much has happened since we left Falmouth no disasters very little wind the engine rattling away sucking up the limited diesel supply so early in the trip. About 160 miles south and slightly to the left are the Cape Verde Islands further left on the African coast lies Senegal. We passed the Canary Islands a while back but were not close enough to see anything, before that though we sailed close to Medeira.

Now that island looks interesting. We had a good view of the NW W and S sides passing the island during the late afternoon and night. The NW and W sides of the island have sheer cliffs dropping vertically to the water with deep valleys and faults breaking the line of this flat surface. Set on the very top of these cliffs were small villages connected by a road and joining the main road which was sited close to a sharp toothed ridge running east west along the island’s major axis. The S side of the island was not steep to, it was a more gentle slope with houses running down to the water’s edge. On the chart Medeira looked about 30 by 15 miles and egg shaped. Looking back at it later in the night the orange lights of the villages strung together by the house lights along the roads gave the impression of a gold necklace adorning the island.

The Fastnet race how good was that result. I can only say it’s a great feeling to wake up after that, lie back and think ” How sweet it is “. We only missed out on the fairytale finish the top spot on the podium by 26 mins. not bad after nearly five and half days of racing. Berri’s 11th. out of 264 I think who finished in IRC division was a huge result, especially when you consider that over 90% of the boats we beat were fully crewed. Thanks for living the dream Alex.

A while ago I had asked my youngest daughter Tessa if she could send me some cds for the trip home, when they arrived I noted that included amongst them was Pink Floyd’s The Wall. On the morning of the race I had a listen to it.

The opening track starts with a lilting acoustic guitar solo that I could barely hear so I upped the volume, a voice came in……”Hey you…… out there in the cold getting lonely getting old ..can you feel me…” the first stanza finished with ..”Don’t give in without a fight..”. Then the full volume hit me blasting the brain with soaring electric guitar riffs and mega bass drums. This was operatic stuff, this would lead us into battle, this was Berri’s anthem.

I finished listening to the cd, had faint idea what it was all about and took from it what I needed, I was pumped up, feeling 20 years younger and hot to trot. This feeling continued throughout the race especially on the kiteSailors’ slang for a spinnaker ride home, it seemed we were always in this one right from the start. Now to other business. In a couple of days time on the ninth of September I turn 60. Everybody is invited to the party, space and access on the Berri is limited but I think we can overcome this by joining “Pete’s party network”. Select some area get a few friends ( or if you are like some of us who have no friends just yourself will do fine ) open a bottle of some suitable liquid refreshment and join the party, you just have to imagine the rest of us are in the next room, oh and try to keep the noise down I don’t want any raucous behavior disturbing the neighbors. That’s about it for now, I’ll get back to you after the party.

Cheers Pete.

From Alex:

Sao Antao is about 140 miles ahead. Its westernmost point is at 02521W so we are already west of it. Once it is abeam, we can, geographically at least, gybe for home. Would be nice to drop in for a demijohn or two of vinho tinto on The Birthday – but perhaps a project for the future. The course for the Cape of Good Hope will be 166M, distance about 4150 miles, about 35 days at 5 knots. That’s geographically. Meteorologically, while we could sail that course, it will be better to head (perhaps a pooptillionth east of) south to the equator and see what the SE trades will allow us to do. My waypoint at 23S 023W is the notional target, at the back of the high and a few degrees east.

From Sao Antao, it is about 1025 miles to the equator, so about 9 days away if we can keep moving. We crossed going north on May 3rd at 029 41 39W. The Fastnet is at 51 22N and Cape Horn is at 56S so we sailed 6442 miles up the Atlantic. We will sail down to about 40S, or about 5482 back down again. Then we really turn for home.

A bit more on the satphone, in case anyone wants to call the old geezer on Friday – be aware that it goes into messagebank after only about 3 rings. Usually we can grab it in that time but not always. If you get messagebank, don’t leave a message – it costs us too much to collect them – just try again in a couple of minutes and someone will be waiting near the phone unless it is in its thunder box. If you get messagebank twice, it probably is, so give up.

I have a small present to get him over the hump, and a few balloons to liven up the messdecks and a card from H & K and a rude one from me. And we have some of Dr BoagA beer brewed in Launceston, Tasmania’s special throat elixir for breakfast, perhaps a lunchtime consultation in Gaelic, and the aphrodisiac Dr Cooper for afternoon tea, to go with IsabellaAlex's sister and Graham’s alcoholic cake. Then there’s Dave’s bottle of Bundy in case we need fortification into the evening. Promises to be a Big Day Out. We might play Pink Floyd on the cd player,if it still works.

1-19. Senegal and Pete's Birthday

Sep 07, 2005 – 0925hrs UTC

By Alex on September 7, 2005, at 0925 UTC

0925hrs 07 Sep 2005 UTC 19’08”N 025’41”W Ref 338

DB 106, 11237 (GPS 102) very slow day.

1-19. Senegal and Pete's Birthday

Sep 07, 2005 - 1715hrs UTC

By Alex on September 7, 2005, at 1715 UTC

Topic(s): Computer crashes

1715hrs 07 Sep 2005 UTC 18’26”N 025’51”W Ref 339

Did anyone spot the deliberate mistake (actually, I just forgot to explain it)? In the last Daily Bull, the GPS distance was less than the calculated day’s run. If everything is working properly, this should not be possible. But it isn’t all working properly and every time we have a USB crash, I have to turn off the GPS and the SatCom until I’ve got the system back up again – if there’s any data whatever getting to the USB-Serial gizmo when it powers up, the laptop thinks it’s got a serial ballpoint mouse going ape around its edges – can’t pre-delete it because there’s nothing in device manager to delete. It all has to be done from inside device manager as it comes up. Tedious. And the CMap dongle has to be inserted, SoB activated and the dongle removed before the main USB cable is attached or, when the dongle is removed, the laptop again sees the USB gizmo as a mouse and crashes it and, usually, the computer as well – the dreaded blue screen of deathWhat happens when the computer crashes. Does anyone know how to permanently remove the serial ballpoint mouse so that it doesn’t boot or isn’t seen by XP? Anyway, I’m gradually getting to a standard procedure that works. If only the failures had an element of consistency. Enough nerdery – back to Twaddle.

Reading Pete’s stuff about the Fastnet – Pascal Loisin, the guy that beat us in the 2 hander, was 16 hours ahead and would have had a fair tide or slack water across Falmouth Bay over the last 40 miles to the finish – we were headbutting nearly 2 knots most of the way and that was the difference – about 2 miles on corrected time. Just as in Storm Bay and the Derwent (at the end of a Hobart Race) it all depends on timing and luck. Extinction is a tough examiner but the Dinosaurs almost got themselves reincarnated to bite a bum or two. Would have been a nice Jurassic touch. Everyone has their ‘ifs’ in ocean racing!

I’ve found the mung beans – we used exactly half of them on the way up – and we have started the vegie garden again. Cress is a lot of effort for the return, so will leave that for later – in case of desperation.

Hugh, thanks for snails, Is for news, Hi George, Hi, Ross – the northern constellations are all going slowly belly up – Orion is flat on his back and the Great Bear is getting lower. Noice – I keep looking into the Milky Way down south – when we can see it through the haze and dust – but the Southern Cross has a way to go yet.

Warm sticky night – tiny moon, almost gone. Could do with one of Pete’s long tinkling glasses with condensation on the outside…Have just gybed to pass closer to Sao Antao in the morning. A symbolic first turn for home, although we are not quite holding 180 yet.

1-19. Senegal and Pete's Birthday

Sep 08, 2005 – 0400hrs UTC

By Alex on September 8, 2005, at 0400 UTC

Topic(s): Ghosts

0400hrs 08 Sep 2005 UTC 17’30”N 025’55”W Ref 340

Santo Antao is 41 miles away on the port bow and, for the first time since we left Falmouth, we are moving back Eastwards towards Oz. Woohoo. We will pass the island tomorrow morning and, Hugh, I’m pretty sure we will see it, blue mist or no. I don’t know whether the islands were inhabited when the Europeans first sighted them, but the first European was almost certainly one of Henry the Navigator’s Captains, who may have been lost or coming back from the other side of the Gulf of Guinea, or, perhaps, using the technique the Portugese developed of running southwards from Cape Blanc until they reached the required latitude and then running eastwards along the latitude until they reached a known spot on the African coast. The identity of the Captain who actually sighted them first, and his report, were probably lost when the Lisbon Archives burnt down in the great fire in, I think, the 1770’s. Not sure of my dates, but the Ming Admiral Cheng Ho was on the East African coast in the early 1400’s and Vasco da Gama would have been there within the next hundred years or so. It would have been an interesting meeting if they had coincided.

We will try to pick up as much easting as possible from here until we hook into the SE Trades in about 600 miles. This will give us a better angle across the trades into the South Atlantic. There’s a little low forming ahead of us, which may assist – or not – depends on which bit of it we arrive in and what is in it.

1-19. Senegal and Pete's Birthday

Sep 08, 2005 - 0900hrs UTC

By Alex on September 8, 2005, at 0900 UTC

0900hrs 08 Sep 2005 UTC 17’05”N 025’49”W Ref 341

DB: 121, 11116 (GPS 134) Murky hazy morning, Santo Antao 25 miles away directly up sun – so Hugh, you may be right after all.

1-19. Senegal and Pete's Birthday

Sep 09, 2005 - 0430hrs UTC │Balloons for Pete’s Birthday

By Alex on September 9, 2005, at 0430 UTC

Topic(s): Beards

0430hrs 09 Sep 2005 UTC 15’37”N 025’12”W Ref 342

The Old Geezer has hit 60 in various parts of the world already. He’s threatening to shave off his beard – says it itches, but really it’s because it makes him look older. We have had a Date Line G&TGin and Tonic to start the celebrations, the first birthday card has been delivered and duly filed and the lad is resting. I will blow up the balloons in the 0300 watch tomoz and deliver the second birthday card and – perhaps – a small present to get him through the rest of the day at 0600. The satphone will be on from 0600 UTC for the party network to talk to him – except that it looks like the line of thundersqualls might thwart that one – try anyway. And there’s almost no wind yet again – drifting in the heat.

I’ve been reading Captain Correlli and I think all y’all need a pet clone of Pelagia’s little goat to exercise selective digestive censorship on all this nonsense. Was going to offer a 6 pack of Coopers to the first person to name the Goat’s Island correctly, but, sadly, Google has just made it a matter of who is quickest on the draw. It was Cephallonia.

Get that network going out there…

[later…]
This grey haired old fart has just spent the last hour belting away with a tiny plastic pump to blow up those sausage balloons that you twist into animal and other shapes. A semi-futile exercise, as the pump has no non-return valve and keeps coming apart. But the cockpit is bedecked with coloured sausages to greet the birthday boy when he emerges at dawn. Which is occurring a few minutes earlier today as we creep back to the east. Thanks, Wendy.

Have just caught a glimpse of an aircraft through the low cloud – funny time to be arriving. Apart from that, and a couple of others that Pete saw some days ago, we have seen nothing human since Madeira except plastic bottles and other floating gunk. It’s a desert out here. We did not see Santo Antao, as Hugh predicted – I think in fact we were too far away – but we are aiming directly at Ilha Brava, the south western island of the C.V. Archipelago which we should reach in daylight. Not a fishing boat or a ship in sight anywhere around what seems to be a well populated and touristy place.

We seem to be slotting in between the tropical waves that form as swirls along the convergence line between the warm air to the south and the cooler air in the north. The waves form little depressions that move westwards at 10 – 15 knots with the earth’s rotation about a day or two apart, with attendant thundersqualls and nasty gusts. They then go on to become Katrinas as they deepen and grow, but not all of them last that long.

At breakfast time today we will commence a Conclave of Consultation lasting all day, with no less that four Prominent Medical Persons due to visit and provide Learned Opinions about the price of fish and the state of the world’s entrails. There will be our regular Consultant from Dublin, his colleagues Dr BoagA beer brewed in Launceston, Tasmania from Hobart, Dr Cooper from Adelaide (go away, Lion Nathan!) and Dr GordonGordon’s Gin from London, together with their students. A record of proceedings may become available at some future date.

Go the Swans – and there’s a cricket match due to start soon too! Maggie, KatherineAlex’s daughter, whoever, please let us know – the BBC is not interested and anyway, I can only get it feebly and occasionally. What is the world sinking to? An institution fades away on the dubious basis that it is all accessible on the internet. I beg to differ.

1-19. Senegal and Pete's Birthday

Sep 09, 2005 – 0900hrs UTC

By Alex on September 9, 2005, at 0900 UTC

0900hrs 09 Sep 2005 UTC 15’21”N 025’00”W Ref 343

A DB festooned with balloons and in the August Presence of Emeritus Professor of Medicine, Dr Laura Boag:

114, 11002 (GPS 116) pity about that 2!

We’re just about to run up the assyAsymetric spinnaker to get us back up to a respectable speed and around Ilha Brava 36 miles dead ahead. Lots of phone calls – thanks – Pete took one from someone – male – whose name he didn’t catch because the line was bad – special thanks to that person.

Go the Swannies!

1-19. Senegal and Pete's Birthday

Sep 09, 2005 – 1445hrs UTC

By Alex on September 9, 2005, at 1445 UTC

1445hrs 09 Sep 2005 UTC 14’53”N 024’51”W Ref 344

We’ve just sighted Ilha Brava at 7.5 miles. Uncanny – we are directly downwind of it and so in the plume of haze and mist and would have sailed past without seeing it at all if we weren’t looking for it. It’s a big chunky hill – small mountain – too murky to describe any further. Later, as we pass through the plume and some reflected sunlight gets through, at about 5 miles, I can see that it is quite high – perhaps 2500-3000 feet, very steep, with a small settlement on a ridge about a third of the way up the western slope. The island is roughly circular, about 5 miles across. The Eastern side might be even steeper from the shape of one of the crags. There’s a small harbour marked on the NW corner but I could only see the steep headland that probably hides and protects it. No signs of cultivation, no boats. Had a good look because it could be the last land we will see until Tasmania in three months or so. There is a surprising number of islands in the southern Indian Ocean but we should be to the north of them. And I discovered that there is an island south of Tristan da Cunha called Gough Island. We may pass close to Ascension and St. Helena, but not in the plan.

Lots of phone calls all day – and the Swannies won – and Warnie got 6 wickets. WOOOHOO.

1-19. Senegal and Pete's Birthday

Sep 09,2005 – 2130hrs UTC

By Alex on September 9, 2005, at 2130 UTC

2130hrs 09 Sep 2005 UTC 14’26”N 024’42”W Ref 345

Picked up a swag of messages – Thanks everyone, from the Old Geezer and we’ll respond over the next day or so. Ilha Brava behind us and the equator and the South Atlantic out front. So nice to see the numbers in the GPS ticking down again from the west.

1-20. Belmore and Pete swims

Sep 10, 2005 - 0530hrs ITC

By Alex on September 10, 2005, at 0530 UTC

0530hrs 10 Sep 2005 UTC 13’59”N 024’50”W Ref 346
The Cape Verdes were the first of the two big corners – now 50 miles astern, no Dancers evident, Brian, and now it’s the lonely sea and the sky for 90 days or so. It’s been quite slow and the run rate required is increasing – apologies to those not familiar with one-day cricket and the complex mathematics that every team captain has to master. I said earlier that we are sailing quite conservatively – we are, but we’re acutely conscious of the run rate and the fact that every mile scored here comes off the rate required and lowers the mountaintop – if that isn’t mixing metaphors too radically. So we’ve had the kiteSailors’ slang for a spinnaker up for probably 50% of the time – and now we’re heading south and burning a bit more diesel on a flat calm mirror in thick haze. We have to get through the convergence zone into the Trades as fast as possible and then we will be pushed westwards again, I think, across the equator and towards the back of the high. Meanwhile, the numbers go on clicking over. We use the solar panel whenever possible, especially when it is so windless, because the turbine drag is worth 0.2 knot or 4.8 miles a day. Doesn’t matter so much when we’re doing 6 or 7.

I’ve been roundly and severeally chastised for even implying that Boags comes from Hobart when everyone knows it is brewed in Launceston. Sorry, Scott – serious lapse, senior moment even – just wanted to make sure you were still awake.

I saw the biggest meteorite – or whatever it was – I’ve ever seen last night. Huge glowing ball with a wide trail that lasted, it seemed, for several seconds. It was going more or less from south to north and it disappeared behind a cloud before it burnt up, so I couldn’t follow it all the way.

From Luis V.

Gentlemen, Been following your voyage through your web site. Vicariously sailing alongside. Thanks for the great updates.

We are constantly amazed at the number and variety of people reading this stuff – youse-all are all over the world – Luis, thanks for your note – do you sail on the Lake? How did you find us?

From Martin S., Barbados

From Barbados – Happy birthday Peter !!

I guess you are about 4 hours ahead of us, and I am being a night owlie here (it is 0215), so the sun must be up on your side of the Atlantic, and I guess you are having a special birthday breakfast fairly imminently with bacon sarnies (next time try Bajan pepper sauce instead of Tabasco – infinitely superior product!) – and of course an in depth consultation with whoever is available at the time.

Happy 60th Pete! Youze all are not such old geezers really – my dad is 74 and a keen sailor, altho he might balk at the prospect of undertaking a voyage like what the Berris are currently doing…..

Anyways, as Hugh wrote in his Berri article, and which YMMagazine published in the UK had the editorial stupidity to omit, we shall dip our lids to the Berris today and join them in a virtual consultation, never mind that we are almost 2,000 miles west of youze at the mo.

Fair winds, and happy sailing times ahead – and look after that Dublin DoctorGuinness on board!

With best wishes from Martin in Barbados (and all the fan club who I have shanghaiied to be Berri followers)

Martin – nice to have news from Barbados – keep it coming. Glad you liked the Original Hugh version – so did we. Seems The Editor has worked his magic on Jo’s YWMagazine published in the UK MO as well, but I hope you will get both versions. Still haven’t heard Trudi – will try harder. At 1411 GMT we are exactly 2100 miles east of you.

1-20. Belmore and Pete swims

Sep 10, 2005 - 0915hrs UTC

By Alex on September 10, 2005, at 0915 UTC

0915hrs 10 Sep 2005 UTC 13’45”N 024’48”W Ref 347

DB: 97.10905 (GPS 100) Excruciatingly slow day – still on and off the tractor. We’re down to 150 ltrs – hardly worth onselling, Is, even at a quid a litre. At 5 degrees North, about 500 miles ahead, we will be half way down the Atlantic and about a quarter of the way home. Say day 26, or 104 days all up. Idle speculation still, but the numbers are starting to firm.

1-20. Belmore and Pete swims

Sep 10, 2005 - 1630hrs UTC

By Peter on September 10, 2005, at 1630 UTC

1630hrs 10 Sep 2005 UTC 13’20”N 024’49”W Ref 348

From Pete:

Pete’s birthday

Hello to everyone out there,

First, a big thankyou to everyone who emailed, phoned, and sent cards, what a wonderful response from all out there.

When I got up to take over for the morning watch, Berri’s cockpit lifelines etc. were covered in balloons Alex had spent his watch creating a carnival atmosphere for the following day. It being such an important day several consultations would be required. To maintain the required limit a noggin at the change of each watch was decided on, beginning with a taste of Dr. BoagA beer brewed in Launceston, Tasmania’s best (thanks Laura). Little to no wind was the order of the day but our efforts to keep the boat moving were rewarded when late in the afternoon Santo Antao was sighted barely visible through the haze. This island was the last one we passed of the Cape Verde group and perhaps the last land sighting till Tasmania.

This may be the problem or perhaps its the light fickle winds and resultant slow progress, we need things to liven up.

Right now I think both of us would appreciate a decent blow from any direction. With the last passage from Falklands to Falmouth by the time we were in the soft spots around the equator we were half way there. With this final jaunt I think we will be about a quarter of the way, it now becomes a mind thing to stay focused and enthused. The heat and humidity don’t help, good books, music and crosswords provide a diversion but there is nothing better than a good breeze and the boat flying in the right direction to lift the spirits.

I’ve just been outside to check things,the wind has improved we’re now getting 4 knots slightly west of south…not bad.

The sun has gone down the breeze is warm and soft on the face the sky in the west is a beautiful wash of greys pink and mauve.

Can you just forget what I said about needing a big blow or some other drama to liven things up,I think I’ll make a nice cup of tea then go and contemplate that sky for awhile.

Cheers …Pete.

ps. IsabellaAlex's sister thanks for the cake with attitude it went down a treat with a short snort of Alex’s port.

1-20. Belmore and Pete swims

Sep 11, 2005 - 0415hrs UTC │Facial Reconstruction, Blind Spots

By Alex on September 11, 2005, at 0415 UTC

Topic(s): Health & Injuries

0415hrs 11 Sep 2005 UTC 12’45”N 024’53”W Ref 349

There’s a layer of haze all around the horizon and a very bright star or planet in the SE, just below Orion’s left foot and just above the haze – it is so bright that it has its own sparkling reflection on the water fleshing towards us and sometines disappearing behind what’s left of a NW swell. The star itself changes colour through all the primaries (Richard Of York Gained Battles In Vain and all that) presumably because the tiny water droplets in the atmosphere act as little prisme with ever changing faces. Noice. Very.

On Imperfections #1: We all have a blind spot in each eye where the optic nerve meets the retina – there’s an easy way to find it if anyone wants to try – but I have an especially big one in my left eye as a result of an injury 40 years ago. Once a year or so, I sit in front of Michael G’s Field of Vision testing box and have tiny pinpoints of light flashed at me by a computer to check that the blind spot is stable. Michael, out here, I can do an instant FoV – just close the right eye and a lot of stars go out in that rather familiar comma shape that indicates the damage to the left retina. Good fun – and much nicer surroundings! The point being that I am especially conscious of both blind spots, but particularly the big one, as I sit here at the computer. There’s a row of blinking LED’s on the dreaded USB gizmo at eye level to my left and if I look down at the keyboard and back up, one or more LED’s sometimes disappear into the blind spot and I have the momentary surge of doubt – did it really go out? Is the damn thing shutting down again. Keeps one one one’s toes – or something. Bum bone?

Imperfections #2: The right side of my face is shored up with chicken wire and a handful of titanium screws – the result of the foredeck incident that Hugh talks about (and fixed up by another Michael G, by coincidence as I’ve just realised) – looks good in some dental xrays – and, because the injury distorted the original arrangement, I have an improvised tear duct drilled through a bit of face bone from the inboard end of the eye into the nasal passage. Makes for an interesting sensation when I blow my nose. In the local heat and humidity, I can actually feel all this stuff in my face – not as a painful sensation but I’m conscious that it’s there. There’s a spot of face under the eye where the nerves have gone and I have no feeling yet that bit particularly seems to be talking to me. Fascinating.
Hope you’re all enjoying your coffee!

Back in tractor mode – the equation is getting some form now, as we reduce our fuel and can see what might be left of the job it has to do. We are part way through the Doldrums – with a bit of luck, this week should see them off, and then we should be in the trades to the back of the high in the S Atlantic (Steve or Mal, could you please give me a rough fix on its centre?) and then we might get caught by the Horse Latitudes if we are not careful, so more tractoring. We should just have enough if we conserve whenever possible, and as long as the Ampair and the Solar panel keep working and we don’t need the engine to charge the batteries. It will be something to keep monitoring all the way in.

1-20. Belmore and Pete swims

Sep 11, 2005 - 0900hrs UTC

By Alex on September 11, 2005, at 0900 UTC

Topic(s): Communications

0900hrs 11 Sep 2005 UTC 12’29”N 024’45”W Ref 350

DB : 75, 10830 (GPS 80) fuel remaining approx 140ltr. AssyAsymetric spinnaker just back up, hdg 174M, 6 kts – be nice if it lasts for a day or two – grib says a day anyway.

I have just realised – although I’ve been subconsciously aware all along, I think, that when the motherboard in the HF radio was replaced in Lymington, it came with a completely different program of user programmable frequencies – not Marc’s Australian oriented version with all the PentaComstat and NZ channels. So – I have to find the Penta handbook and reprogram 160 user frequencies. Really easy for most of them but Marc’s chart doesn’t give the actual frequency for the ‘channels’ 408, 608 etc. And then find the ham frequencies which it is useful to have programmed even though we are not allowed to use them except in emergency. So will have to do some unpacking to find the right filing box and the manual.

1-20. Belmore and Pete swims

Sep 11, 2005 – 1430hrs UTC

By Alex on September 11, 2005, at 1430 UTC

1430hrs 11 Sep 2005 UTC 11’59”N 024’34”W Ref 351

1159 02434 11/1430

As we move more or less south down the longitudes, progress seems very slow – every degree of latitude is 60 nm so at best we can knock off a couple per day and the longitude doesn’t change much. As we cross the equator and start counting up the latitudes again, we may also be able to work our way east, but still rather slowly, and the degrees of longitude near the equator are nearly 60 miles as well. But further down, as we really turn for home below Africa, the longitudes are much closer together and we will start reeling them off relatively fast. Roll on the day, but there’s still about 3800 miles to go – a bit over a month if all goes well.

Started programming the HF – too hot to do much – the sweat rolls off down here out of the breeze but progress – I’ve done 40 channels including the Penta Comstat duplexes.

1-20. Belmore and Pete swims

Sep 11, 2005 – 2330hrs UTC

By Alex on September 11, 2005, at 2330 UTC

Topic(s): AIS

2330hrs 11 Sep 2005 UTC 11’07”N 024’20”W Ref 352

We’ve been hand steering all day – since 0900 – with the assyAsymetric spinnaker pulling us along at about 7 knots in an erratic and gusty north easterly and a biggish swell – neither autopilot copes with it particularly well but we’re making up some time. Ship out to port, only the second since the Canaries. I have worked out a procedure for bringing the laptop back after a USB event and it’s not nearly so much of a threat – I can now get it back up in about 5 minutes instead of 30 – 40 – so I’m going to experiment with the AIS version of SoB (now closed down and completely disconnected) to see whether it was part of the problem or just incidental. Would be really nice to be able to see the ship out there on the laptop along with its MMSI and other details. Watch this space.

Really wild and empty out here – I was hit by a moment this morning during which I was acutely conscious of the emptiness and the elemental void so to speak. There is a very long NW swell – about 300 meres long, 3-4 metres high – with a cross swell over it from the north and on top of any two of these, you look down and across to the next few in line and feel very small indeed. Not quite as wild and scary as the southern ocean warehousesWaves the size of warehouses with roaring rolling tumbling crests but awesome all the same. I suppose I could do the sums and estimate how many more we will cross between here and Oz – but only if I get desperate for something to do.

Aiming to cross the equator at about 24W and head for the back of the high – think I may have told you this already – and we seem to be almost out of the ITCZ and the Doldrums.

1-20. Belmore and Pete swims

Sep 12, 2005 – 0300hrs UTC

By Alex on September 12, 2005, at 0300 UTC

0300hrs 12 Sep 2005 UTC 10’48”N 024’16”W Ref 353
Just back at the coal face and the wind has dropped again and the moon has gone. Tea bag has probably stewed enough so will go and squeeze it.

1-20. Belmore and Pete swims

Sep 12, 2005 – 0900hrs UTC

By Alex on September 12, 2005, at 0900 UTC

0900hrs 12 Sep 2005 UTC 10’24”N 024’05”W Ref 354
DB: 131, 10699 (GPS 133) so even hitting 7 knots for a lot of the day doesn’t make a huge difference – I know the log over reads by about 2% as well – but a good day and we’re still in the same breeze altho it’s a bit weaker.

1-20. Belmore and Pete swims

Sep 12, 2005 - 1245hrs UTC

By Alex on September 12, 2005, at 1245 UTC

Topic(s): Fridge

1245hrs 12 Sep 2005 UTC 10’07”N 023’57”W Ref 355

Now only 607 miles to the equator, perhaps 300 to the trades. That would take us to 5N, half way down the Atlantic from Fmth to 40S. Too hot by half – and the laptop is hot to the touch. We are making about 5 litres of water per day to stay ahead, using the solar panel alone. Too hot to sleep during the day, not hungry, just grinding out the miles between Consultations. The very best moment is the first sip of G&TGin and Tonic at about 5pm each day – even though it’s warm and we’ve used the last of the lemons and are into bottled lemon juice. The first one with ice in it in three months or so will be a bit special, like the one IsabellaAlex's sister made for us in Falmouth on June 3. We have a makeshift Coolgardie fridge keeping the ready use potions a couple of degrees cooler, but they are still at about 30 degrees – the sea is 31 degrees. Roll on the southern ocean – whoever wants to sail the tropics is welcome. I think I’m whingeing too much – where’s that goat? Does anyone know the name of the second goat, Corelli’s restitution? Does anyone care?? The little things that occupy the mind in a tiny, hot world.

1-20. Belmore and Pete swims

Sep 13, 2005 - 0330hrs UTC │Cattle Egret I

By Alex and Peter on September 13, 2005, at 0330 UTC

Topic(s): Belmore school, Birds, Cattle Egret

0330hrs 13 Sep 2005 UTC 09’22”N 023’18”W Ref 356

We’ve just dropped the assyAsymetric spinnaker and reverted to tractor after nearly 2 days of great reaching – I hope the grib is correct and we’ll get a south easterly later today, which, if it holds, might become the top of the SE trades. Woohoo. Meanwhile, the old bus shelterExplanation here gets sniffed and watered by all the local mongrels and we carry on fantasising about ocean voyages in our tiny concrete world.

From SarahPete Crozier's daughter Crozier

hi pet-eo, happy birthday and happy fathers day and all that jazz. all is good on the home front, not much to report. Do have some good news – Mel had a baby girl called Hannah, at about 10.15pm on friday, same birthday as you, 60 years apart. pretty cool, eh? I went to see them last night, very very cute. any way, hope all is well, take care, see you in 3 months. Have you caught any fish yet?

—

Just before the funeral services, the undertaker came up to the very elderly widow and asked, “”How old was your husband “”98,”” she replied.””Two years older than me.”” “”So you’re 96,”” the undertaker commented. She responded, “”Hardly worth going home is it?””

A 97 year old man goes into his doctor’s office and says, “”Doc, I want my sex drive lowered.”” “”Sir””, replied the doctorGuinness, “”You’re 97. Don’t you think your sex drive is all in your head?”” “”You’re darned right it is!”” replied the old man. “”That’s why I want it lowered!””

An elderly woman from Brooklyn decided to prepare her will and make her final requests. She told her Rabbi she had two final requests. First, she wanted to be cremated, and second, she wanted her ashes scattered over Bloomingdales. “”Bloomingdales?”” the Rabbi exclaimed. “”Why Bloomingdales?”” “”Then I’ll be sure my daughters visit me twice a week.””

Three old guys are out walking. First one says, “”Windy, isn’t it?”” Second one says, “”No, it’s Thursday!”” Third one says, “”So am I. Let’s go get a beer.””

A man was telling his neighbour, “”I just bought a new hearing aid. It cost me four thousand dollars, but its state of the art. It’s perfect.”” “”Really,”” answered the neighbour. “”What kind is it?”” “”Twelve thirty.””

From Jennifer

Optic nerves:

Pete, just read your log entry about your eyes and face. Particularly interesting for me because I’m just finishing first year psych and spen the entire year doing experiments with vision and depth perception. That’s the first log I’ve read in a while, although Brian keeps me up to date with what’s happpening.

Clear skies and fair winds to you

A bit of a catch up – thanks for the jokes, John H and SarahPete Crozier's daughter; Jen, how does that stuff fit into first year psych? I’ve taken part in lots of those experiments, mostly years ago and mostly for medical students. I hope you two are planning to come across for the Coming Home party.

From John C.

The phone call mentioned in Sitrep: 0900hrs 09 Sep 2005 UTC Ref 342 was me. Very clear from my end but must have been difficult for Pete. I was sitting on the Bateman’s Bay yacht club mariner on my way south. Unfortunately driving – not sailing. Fascinating to think a mobile phone can talk to a bus shelterExplanation here in the mid Atlantic. Keep up the pretence for us land lubbers to dream about. Cheers and good sailing to you both

John C, Hilary told us it must have been you – Pete just missed your name in the static.

From Diana H.

Subject: solar storm

.. apprntly major inc in solar flare activty in recent days may affect computer equipment? effectively an electromagnetic pulse that goes on and on? dunno what it does to radios?

take care

And, talking of static, thanks Diana, solar flares really mess up radio propagation but I don’t think they harm the radio itself. Every time I log into sailmail, the saildocs computer in Washington updates my propagation calculator with sunspot activity and solar flux info – clever and the calculator is astonishingly accurate. Will write separately about a PB idea that’s been simmering.

From Kate G.

Alex & Peter – What an excursion. Have had to print out a few days of The Log (subject to Copyright 2005) to accompany me through the wilds of Warnie’s bowling tonight. Fine sailing to you. Cheers K.

Hi Kate – we heard about The Ashes – probably a Good Thing for cricket, tho it hurts. Hope the log was sufficiently interesting to overcome the loss.

From Martin Z., Vienna, Austria

“greetings from vancouver, canada and vienna, austria etc” “During my stay at at a medical congress in Vancouver last week I had the opportunity to have an evening party where Michael Giblin, an ophthalmologist from Australia, was present.

We talked about this and that and also about sailing. I told him that I recently had bought a small sailing boat which I now use for sailing in an Austrian lake close to Vienna.

I told him that this ship type, SHARK 24, was already used to cross the Atlantic.

So it was not so far that Mr. Giblin told me about your journey and gave me your homepage address.

I take the opportunity to send the best greetings of Mr. Giblin and me and we are looking forward to a good end of your journey.

Michael Z from Vancouver and Vienna – thanks for your good wishes and glad you found us – welcome to the bus shelterExplanation here – a shark in a Vienna lake must frighten the locals a bit perhaps – happy sailing. It must be almost the end of your season – does the lake freeze? Michael G – a Junketeer? Hope you enjoyed it – Vancouver is spectacular. Send us a note when you get back and I’ll write to you.

From Malcom Robinson

Hi guys – and very happy belateds to Pete! – keep the beard on Pete, otherwise nobody will believe that you’re 60

We celebrated Pete’s birthday by taking Wildfire in her first (semi)proper race down to North Bruny. We’re not sure who came second – by the time they got near the line (45 minutes later) we were too far away to see :-)) Total fluke of course – all the others stayed on the eastern shore while we went west and snuck along in our own little zephyr.

I’ve just started watching the South Atlantic high and at the moment it looks really weird
- sausage of high pressure NW to SE
- current centre (1028) is at 45S 010E (SW of Cape Town) with ridge (1024) extending NW to 20S 025W
- Low of 1004 at 35S 005W (W of Cape Town) has a fairly localised influence
- looks like SE winds west of 015W and S winds east of there
- yuk

I been thinking seriously about the S/H and as honoured as I am to have been invited and as much fun as it would have been, have decided to give it a miss this year. There are several reasons but the biggy is that I reckon that I’ve had my turns and I’d love to see Catherine and/or Stephen have a go this time. I’m also really looking forward to coming out and meeting you and getting photos of you as you round Tasman Island.

And irrespective of that, I’ll also come and say g’day as you go past Tassie on your way home, no matter which end of the island you decide to go past! Sail safely guys!

Mal, you’ll have to sandbag a bit – remember Dennis Conner? – so they don’t mess with your handicap. Sounds good – next stop LHI lagoon? We’ll miss you on the S2H. Thanks re SA high – we also have our own Oracle who has clocked in again, so with the 2 of you on side, we should crack it. If there happens to be a good ISSInternational Space Station pass any time, it’s pretty cloudless here at the mo – but don’t bother with regular updates – i don’t think they will talk to us again, but it’s nice to know they are up there. I think we may be closer to Africa than them at the mo.

And Malcom did the numbers – seems we’ve crossed over a million primary wave crests since Sydney and we’ve only got 785455 to go 785454 785453…zzzz We could put numbers on the 2 Most Significant Waves, I suppose.

From Roger W.

Simon & I will get your application for entry in; once that’s accepted it will be the entry itself, which we will also handle. The application requires 50% of crew for crew experience so I have included John Van O, no probs if you have to change later. I will keep my eye on entry dates etc.

Roger and Simon, many thanks – I’ll write separately.

Squeeze the bag time – must keep up the fluids. Is S.W. Bag still out there Steve?

G’day to the kids at BelmoreSydney School corresponding with Berri SouthSydney School corresponding with Berri Primary
[from Alex] To 5/6 P and 5/6 S Hi from Pete and Alex in Berrimilla. This is Alex writing – Pete will have a go later, when he wakes up (we have to take it in turns to sleep) Its really good to know you’re out there. We are about 400 nautical miles off the coast of Guinea-Bissau in West Africa and it’s the middle of the night as I write. It’s hot and even this far out, I can smell the land – don’t know what the smell is but it’s there. Car fumes, dog poo, rotting leaves, the scent of flowers just like Sydney, I expect. The sea water is about as warm as an indoor pool in Sydney and it’s really sweaty even now at night. The Atlantic here is about 6 kilometres deep and it’s a funny feeling to be on top of that much water. There were dolphins all around us earlier – we could here them surfacing and snorting as they breathe and they make lovely phosphorescent trails in the water. Our actual position at this moment is 09 degrees 18 minutes North, 023 degrees 17 minutes West, which puts us 557 nautical miles north of the equator.

We’re in the Inter Tropical Convergence Zone or ITCZ which is just a fancy name for what old sailors used to call The Doldrums and where they hated going because there is never much wind and it’s always hot and unpleasant and they could be stuck here for weeks. We’re lucky because we have an engine so we can still move even when there’s no wind. The ITCZ is where the very hot air that moves around the earth on either side of the equator mixes with the cooler air coming down from the north. Because the air masses are moving in slightly different directions there are big swirls where the two masses mix – just like when cigarette smoke rises in the air – and these swirls, called tropical waves, sometimes go on to become tropical hurricanes like Katrina.

Steve or Mal, any chance you could put up a link to relevant bit of the wind chart on one of the weather sites?
[like this?]

That’s probably enough guff from me – we’d really like to hear from you if you would like to write to us with your news or questions. There’s not much happening out here and and it would give us something interesting to do.

Best wishes to you all from
Alex

[from Pete]
Hi kids Pete here, it was good to learn that you are interested in what we are doing on the other side of the world.
I’ve been on watch for about one and a half hours now, I didn’t get much sleep in my 3 hours off, probably because I went to bed all hot and sweaty. Just before Alex took over we had to pull down the big spinnaker sail which had been slowly hauling us across the water in very little wind. Putting everything away after we drop this sail takes some time and running around the rolling deck in the dark to do this work makes you very hot. I should have stayed on deck and cooled off before going below as it’s very hot in the cabin with the engine running, too late to worry about that now I’ll try to catch up on my sleep later.
About half an hour ago the sun came up at about 7.30 am. UTC. This means that the sun was going down in Sydney at about this time, perhaps you could work out for me what time sunrise and sunset are in Sydney using UTC time (UTC used to be known as Greenwich Mean Time). I couldn’t see the sun till it was about 5 degrees above the horizon due to the heavy haze over the water. Time gets a little complicated when you’re at sea. We have to keep our watches on UTC because all our information (weather etc.) is transmitted at certain times during the day in UTC time. At the moment local time and UTC are about one and a half to two hours apart which is ok but once we get past the bottom of Africa and start sailing due east the two time frames start to separate quickly and you end up having your breakfast with your watch saying it’s midnight.
Sorry if I’ve been waffling on about this time problem but I think it’s important. With international communications so easy these days via the internet business is going on 24 hours a day and that’s the way of the future.

I just went out to see if there were any ships about and there was this pure white ( except for its black tail feathers ) bird,circling around the boat. Sometimes they hitch a ride on the boat for a few hours and have a rest. We have not seen that many birds recently, it will be good to get further south where once again we will meet up with the big beautiful albatross. Did you know that they sleep while flying, how efficient is that bird.
Cheers for now, hope to hear from you soon…….Pete.

ps. I’ve just been up on deck again and that bird did stop for a rest, it was up on the bow of the boat. Had a good look at it this time, it has long thin legs like a shallow water feeder. It also has a long orange coloured beak and the top of its head is an orange colour.

1-20. Belmore and Pete swims

Sep 13, 2005 - 1030hrs UTC

By Alex on September 13, 2005, at 1030 UTC

Topic(s): Birds, Cattle Egret

1030hrs 13 Sep 2005 UTC 09’01”N 023’10”W Ref 357

DB: 96, 10603 (gps 99) Slow, but we’re creeping south out of the ITCZ so it’s progress.

Apologies – it should have been Martin, not Michael Z. from Vienna in my last note – good sailing Martin.

Back with the tractor – just transferred fuel from Jerries into tank – very messy business and hot and sweaty too. We’re both pretty cheesy – same clothes for days, but you don’t seem to get really smelly – just that sensual Havarti/ Gorgonzola/ Roquefort/ Parmesan whiff around the pits and crutch every now and again. Clothes permanently damp – no point whatever in changing them because in 10 minutes, the next lot will be just as bad. I rinse mine in fresh water every ten days or so and I’ve got two sets going – one ready for use and one cheesy. The water goes an interesting colour – maybe one for Kim or Jude to analyse?

We have a lovely visitor – an Egret or Heron – about 30 cm high, sturdy legs with huge four toed feet with big claws, wider that its body, a beigey gold crest and with a touch of the same colour on its breast feathers, golden beak, about 4-5 cm long, bright golden irises with brown rings around the edges and brown pupils and the brightest snowy white feathers. It stands on the foredeck and flies off if we approach but doesn’t go far and returns. We’ve put water up there, but it seems to be a very long way from home and sadly, I don’t like it’s chances of finding its way back. It can only stay with us until we start sailing to windward again, so it will get a rest anyway. Looks like one of those birds that walk on water-lily leaves and catch tiny fish.

1-20. Belmore and Pete swims

Sep 13, 2005 - 1530hrs UTC

By Alex on September 13, 2005, at 1530 UTC

Topic(s): Birds, Cattle Egret

1530hrs 13 Sep 2005 UTC 08’48”N 023’03”W Ref 358

A Snowy Egret perhaps? – it is very firmly still with us and seems to be getting used to having us around – it just flies from one end of the boat to the other as we do sail changes (we’ve had the assyAsymetric spinnaker up and down twice and the #1 once since this morning – hot and dripping work and ones eyes start to get filled with sweat and sting). It drinks water from a dogbowl, but doesn’t seem to go for biscuits. It would probably prefer something slimy – a worm or a snail or small fish and insects. All of which we ain’t got – anyone have any suggestions? Perhaps dissolve biscuits in the water bowl? Boot ferals are all in hiding and anyway, would probably poison it. Perhaps a Consultation?

1-20. Belmore and Pete swims

Sep 13, 2005 - 2330hrs UTC

By Alex on September 13, 2005, at 2330 UTC

Topic(s): Lightning

2330hrs 13 Sep 2005 UTC 08’19”N 022’44”W Ref 359

I’m a real scaredy-puss when it comes to lightning and I’ve just spent the last couple of hours going round the back of a big thunder cloud with lots of lightning and the classic roll along the front. Motoring on a glassy sea to start with, then the wind came in and we were able to sail

1-20. Belmore and Pete swims

Sep 14, 2005 - 0330hrs UTC

By Alex on September 14, 2005, at 0330 UTC

Topic(s): Birds, Cattle Egret

0330hrs 14 Sep 2005 UTC 08’05”N 022’31”W Ref 360

Still trying to sail again after another 3 hours of tractor – wind almost dead on the nose but at least it’s there for the mo. Amazing Egret has stood on the foredeck under tacking #1 – has real sea legs and just sways with the boat’s motion on those huge feet. Don’t know what to do about it – it will surely die if it stays with us, but it doesn’t know how to leave and won’t go. Still have thunderstorms around us. Propagation abysmal so may not be able to send this for perhaps 24 hours

1-20. Belmore and Pete swims

Sep 14, 2005 - 0945hrs UTC

By Alex on September 14, 2005, at 0945 UTC

Topic(s): Birds, Cattle Egret

0945hrs 14 Sep 2005 UTC 07’41”N 022’14”W Ref 361

DB 98, 10505 (gps 89 – more crashes) Not a happy day, but stll progress. Visiting bird won’t go away – tried everything last night but it kept finding us again. It’s now sitting looking at me over the stormboard. Young and curious. And now it’s poking into the cockpit drain looking for food. There doesn’t seem to be anything we can give it – we’ll try canned fish and meat later.

1-20. Belmore and Pete swims

Sep 14, 2005 – 1300hrs UTC

By Alex on September 14, 2005, at 1300 UTC

1300hrs 14 Sep 2005 UTC 07’33”N 021’59”W Ref 362

Still surrounded by thunderstorms. Only able to make 135M at 3 kt using the tractor and sails to punch thro the sea and swell. It’s like that awful time in a marathon – usually hits me at about 12k – where I think I feel dreadful, want to stop, go home, anything but run another 30k. So I have to tell myself that I started so I’ve got to finish and anyway what’s wrong with a bit of pain and perseverance – it will end eventually. And it does. But this bit is not much fun, especially as we seem to be stuck here for the time being. We are nearly a quarter of the way along the track, which helps.

1-20. Belmore and Pete swims

Sep 14, 2005 - 1600hrs UTC │Cattle Egret II

By Alex on September 14, 2005, at 1600 UTC

Topic(s): Birds, Cattle Egret

1600hrs 14 Sep 2005 UTC 07’24”N 022’01”W Ref 363

moving again, surrounded by squally rainclouds – #3 and a reef, best we can do is 4kt on 250 – heading for the hump of S. America for as long as it lasts. Woohoo. Not long as it turned out – back on 120, big sewll, short lumpy sea all over the place on top of it – can’t make any real progress in any direction but heading for the back (I hope!) of a huge storm cloud – thick, black, scuddy low cloud in front, extends from dead ahead back to our starboard quarter. Looks quite nasty.

The bird flew away with a bit of persuasion – sad to see it go, but really its best chance of survival. Seemed quite comfortable sitting on the water, so it may get home.

[from Hilary Yerbury, Alex’s far better other half]
Subject: That bird
Is a cattle egret. I won’t make comments about what it is doing with you two. So, you are right that it needs a diet of insects and worms. What is it doing where there are no cattle of the four-legged kind? Either running away to Brazil or on its way back home after a holiday somewhere. Cattle egrets do cross the Atlantic from Africa to South America on rare occasions, although normally they are happier among the lowing herds.

1-20. Belmore and Pete swims

Sep 15, 2005 - 0915hrs UTC

By Alex on September 15, 2005, at 0915 UTC

Topic(s): Bus shelter

0915hrs 15 Sep 2005 UTC 06’34”N 022’08”W Ref 364

Have just spoken to Steve after one of the worst nights ever in my sailing career. As if the Vogon Constructor Fleet parked itself at Fox studios with nowt to do so thought it would indulge in a bit of idle chuck-the-bus-shelter. Plus emptying their water tankers by superjet. So they picked us up in their grapplers and flung us about through the jets – farting and growling and grumbling amongst themselves. Not for fun or anything – they don’t do fun – just because they were there.

Seems we can’t escape this nasty strip of evil weather system – storm clouds everywhere, wind from everywhere, short lumpy sea on big swell from nowhere in particular. And no visible sign of improvement over 48 hours so far. 10 kts to 40 kts from anywhere, but trend from the south. Sail changes, tacks to nothing, headsail up and down, tedious. But could be much worse.

DB: 60, 11543 (gps 99) Yuk! 39 wasted miles…

1-20. Belmore and Pete swims

Sep 15, 2005 – 1300hrs UTC

By Alex on September 15, 2005, at 1300 UTC

1300hrs 15 Sep 2005 UTC 06’29”N 022’16”W Ref 365

0629 02216 15/1300 – we seem to be in a steady southerly at last – what we were expecting when we trekked east from the Cape Verdes to give us the angle when it arrived. Here’s hoping it sticks and carries us into the trades proper and then lifts us east of Fernando de Noronha and down to Trindade. Cross your fingers for us.

[more for Belmore South…]

Hi – this is Alex in Berrimilla in some awful weather just off the Gulf of Guinea. We are surrounded by big storm clouds and heavy rain and it’s hot and sweaty even at night. We have just started to get a steady wind from the south, so we are hoping that we can sail over towards Brazil and then down the coast of South America. We are heading to pass close to a tiny island called Trindade, part of the Ihlas San Martin Vaz group of islands belonging to Brazil at 20 degrees 27 minutes south, 28 degrees 44 minutes west. See if you can find them on a map – they are pretty small.

It’s really nice to be able to talk to you all, even in this rather clumsy way and we’d like to hear from you too if you are interested. We are going to be sailing towards Australia for another 90 days or so. We send these emails over a high frequency radio – a bit stone age these days with satellite phones and other high tech goodies, but it works. Unfortunately, we can’t send photos. Probably just as well – we’re not the prettiest – I’ve worn the same clothes for 10 days now and they are damp and cheesy, but it saves water if we don’t wash them. As for water – we need about 6 litres per day to survive, cook, shave and all those things. We brought about 200 litres with us from England and we have a watermaker called a Reverse Osmosis de-salinator which gets the salt out of sea water by passing it through a membrane. It’s clever and necessary – we could save some rain water, but not much and it’s always salty

I hope you enjoy your class

Best wishes from Alex.

1-20. Belmore and Pete swims

Sep 16, 2005 - 00hrs UTC│Pete's Swim

By Alex on September 16, 2005, at 0000 UTC

Topic(s): Communications, Man overboard

00hrs 16 Sep 2005 UTC 05’41”N 022’51”W Ref 366

From Grahame McL

I’ve just read the article in Yachting MonthlyMagazine published in the UK here in UK and now gone on to your site. I think what you’re doing is sensational and I wish I was doing one of the legs with you both. I’m a composer and conductor and also run a music publishing company. My main hobby was flying for the past 25 years or so but I did my yachting exams at night school a few years ago just to keep learning something new. Last year my partner Lyn (Kiwi) and I bought a 36′ Legend at the boat show, enlisted the help of Tom Wilkinson, a well known RYA Examiner in UK and did the day skipper course. Neither of us had sailed before and it looked daunting. On the morning Tom arrived it was blowing a hooley and he asked if we still wanted to do it, of course we did and 5 days later, after going through hail, rain, thunder, heaving to off Felixstowe because we lost the engine and had a jam with the Jib we were handed our bit of paper and went straight back out. We sailed all through last winter, loved it, no one around and made masses of mistakes but learned as we went on. Our passages are now as far as Ramsgate which is pathetic compared to you two but we don’t take crew and work as a team. Next year we’ll get across the channel and I’d like to think keep heading south for ever.

We’re both now dreaming of the time when we can hopefully sell our companies and follow your path, (Lyn is a film producer with all the stresses that that brings).

Thank you both for the inspiration, you’re doing what lot’s of us want to do and I just can’t imagine, after sailing for the past year, how you get all the skills you both must have to do the passages that you’ve done, I’m full of admiration for you.

If you’re able to get onto web sites and like music go on to www.northstarmusic.co.uk – this division of the company sells relaxation music, if there are any titles that take your fancy let me know your next port of call and I’ll send, they may just calm the passage to Hobart a little next time.

Grahame Mac thanks for your note of some days ago – you have clearly worked out that you have to make these things happen. Best of luck with the channel crossing and please feel free if there’s anything we can do to help as you and Lyn move on to bigger things. Thanks to for offer of music – we can’t get the internet and don’t intend to stop anyway so won’t be able to take you up.

We’ve had a wearying few days but we seem to be south of the nasties and pointing more or less at the hump of Brazil instead of the Amazon. We hope that we will be lifted around to head for Trinidade as we move south.

Our difficulties were capped by some unintended man overboard practice yesterday. We’d just finished one of the many headsail changes and put in a reef. Pete went up to weather of the boom to put in the knitting along the foot – something we’ve done a hundred times – I went down to get my jacket because it had started to rain quite hard and as I got inside, the boat gybed violently. I jumped back up, looked forward, no Pete, looked aft and saw him in the water swimming for the turbine line. I let go both sheets and brought the boat into wind and we were almost stopped by the time Pete had grabbed the line and turned on his back. The boat parked beam on with the sails feathered – essentially hove to – and I pulled him in on the line. At which point it became clear just how hard it is to get someone heavy, wet and slippery back into a tossing heaving boat. We managed – Pete has a big graze on his shin but otherwise undamaged and we’re both much wiser and less complacent. I will write this up more fully with all the do’s, dont’s and the mistakes that caused it – an edifying experience and one that should not be wasted.

Some info for Brian and Jen and anyone else who might follow us – If you have it, SatCom C is fantastic as a free text weather forecast source and a great complement to grib files but you must get hold of charts of all the worlds forecast areas (I have asked Simon to include a database on future versions of SoB but that may be some time off). Reeds Almanac gives the european and north african ones but SatCom (using our GPS position as a guide)has now switched us to the Brazilian Navy forecasts for the South Atlantic and I don’t have the areas (Alpha, bravo etc) so can’t use it. Aggravating. I didn’t know to look before we left but now all y’all do – so do! SatC is also a good backup for sailmail, as we discovered on the way north – but expensive.

And Jen, I was just checking to make sure you know what you’re talking about and I find all that stuff fascinating too. Having most of one eye u/s is all about depth and compensation.

Hi CaroI

1-20. Belmore and Pete swims

Sep 16, 2005 – 0915hrs UTC

By Alex on September 16, 2005, at 0915 UTC

0915hrs 16 Sep 2005 UTC 05’30”N 023’02”W Ref 367

DB 91, 10452 (GPS 95) Not bad considering. We are now 2825 miles from Falmouth and at best we have about 9760 miles to sail – not quite a quarter of the way and this is day 27. Dec 11th is still on the cards and we should go a bit faster from here. Mostly on the wind down to Trinidade so will depend on the sea state. Actually very difficult sailing – a boat this size just stops in this sort of sea unless there is enough wind to drive it through – at the moment there isn’t and the best we can do is about 245M @ 3.5 kt. Could be a long ride south.

1-20. Belmore and Pete swims

Sep 17, 2005 - 0345hrs UTC │Pete's Swim

By Alex on September 17, 2005, at 0345 UTC

Topic(s): Lessons learned, Man overboard, Things that worked, Watermaker

0345hrs 17 Sep 2005 UTC 04’49”N 023’45”W Ref 368

Pete’s Swim: (I will add to this as we think of more)

What happened:

We are not sure how the boat came to gybe. I think that we had used the electric autopilot to tack after we put the reef in and – as often happens – the actuator arm had disconnected from the tiller so the boat was not under the control of either autopilot. It was so sudden that we assume a wave tossed the stern a long way sideways and caused the gybe.

Pete was leaning against the weather side of the boom about a metre back from the gooseneck and just got flung.

Mistakes:

1. Complacency – the preventer was not on – should be the first thing that happens – we had taken it off for one of the operations and had not re-run it. Had it been properly in place, the gybe would not have been dangerous.

2. I took my eye off the ball and went below, assuming that all was ok – as it always has been. Had I not done so, I might have seen it coming and been able to do something.

3. Pete was not tethered – as it happened, probably saved him from serious injury because he was thrown 10 – 15 feet off the boat into the water without any restriction. We both think, after analysing his trajectory, that he would have crashed into the hull if he’d been tethered. Difficult one.

4. The recovery sling with lifting tackle is (still) buried under a ton of stuff in the after locker. We will need to extract it and find more accessible stowage.

What worked:

We have talked a lot about what we would do in exactly that situation – first, the person in the boat must stop the boat as quickly as possible, then think about recovery – keep the person in the water in sight. The person in the water should swim for the turbine line faster than he’s ever swum before. Luckily, the turbine was streamed and the boat was not going fast. Once Pete had grabbed the line, the rest was easy – except for getting him back on board.

Iffy stuff:

1. There’s no way Pete had time to shout – it was so fast that he was in the water before he had time to realise he was on the way. Also, with all the ambient noise, it’s unlikely I would have been able to hear him shouting from 20 metres back in the water.

2. Having seen that Pete had the line, I didn’t even consider the rescue goodies in the cockpit – we have a throwing line that really works = we’ve tried it, and a Seattle rescue sling. I think (hope!) that if I’d actually had to consider more complex recovery action, I would have got brain into gear and used them as appropriate.

Lessons:

1. Man overboard drills in the harbour don’t give you any idea of the fear that grabs you and the time and difficulty involved in doing it for real. We should use a Seattle sling occasionally and really pick someone up under controlled conditions. (Would the sling line actually pay out and not tangle? How easy is it to deploy and what could it snag on? Could it get into the prop?) A real rescue would almost certainly involve releasing the lifelines, for instance, and making a crane with the boom or a halyard. Does the recovery tackle actually work – if it’s hard to use in the harbour, in yesterdays conditions it would have been very much harder.

2. These things do happen and out here they are potentially much more dangerous than in sight of and radio contact with help. We were lucky – it could have been much worse.

[Belmore 3!!!]

Hi again from Alex. Just waffling to give myself something to do.

A number for you – we started out with more that 2000 teabags – and I thought some of you might be interested in some of the technology in the boat – for instance, the watermaker works because water molecules (H20)are much smaller than salt molecules (NaCl) so if you force sea water through a special filter called a membrane that has holes in it just a bit bigger than water molecules, only the water goes through and the salt gets stuck on the outside. A bit like pouring sandy water through a sock – you get cloudy water through the sock but the sand gets caught inside. The watermaker uses two cycles – 2 pumps of water – and the second one is used to wash the salt back out into the sea. Might not work with my socks out here though – very cheesy – did you know that there’s a bacterium (I think) that is found in all those cheesy smelling things that makes them smell that way. I’m sure someone else reading the website knows all about this and can post it for us.

And, using the same idea as the watermaker, our waterproof breathable clothing works just like the membrane. It is made in 3 layers and, as water molecules this time are much bigger than the atoms and molecules that make up the air we breathe, (do you know what they are?) so air can get through both ways (with attendant cheese bacterium?) but water gets stuck on the outside and we stay dry and not too hot and sweaty inside. Before breathable fabric, it was horribly sweaty inside wet weather gear.

I hope all that is interesting – if not, tell us what you REALLY want to know and were afraid to ask and we’ll have a go.

1-20. Belmore and Pete swims

Sep 17, 2005 – 0900hrs UTC

By Alex on September 17, 2005, at 0900 UTC

0900hrs 17 Sep 2005 UTC 04’40”N 023’59”W Ref 369

1-20. Belmore and Pete swims

Sep 17, 2005 – 1530hrs UTC │Pete’s view of events

By Alex and Peter on September 17, 2005, at 1530 UTC

Topic(s): Clouds, Lessons learned, Man overboard

1530hrs 17 Sep 2005 UTC 04’24”N 024’16”W Ref 370

DG 76, 10376 (GPS 76) Seem that’s going to be about par for the next couple of weeks – we’re going to be hard on the wind down to Trinidade, but I hope we’ll get lifted so we don’t have to tack around S. America.

H – we’re in contact with Jo, so no need to do anything. Ta.

Came up on deck this morning to an amazing sky – there seemed to be 4 separate layers – sorry, but I don’t remember my clouds and don’t want to unpack the boat to find the book – the ice crystals way up on top, with creases and bands going SW/NE, then a layer of almost lenticular bands of thicker fluffier but tightly rolled cumulus-like clouds, with the bands approximately E/W, (some indication of a jetstream up there?) then a layer of perhaps AltoCu – fluffy, tight little puffs very close together, then the low level diurnal type cu moving towards us at the gradient wind speed. All patchy and confused. And the sea is dark gunbarrel grey.

I hung myself over the transom to do what blokes do and saw a small fish positively gambolling around Kevvo’s paddle – wasn’t a flying fish – short and stubby. I also saw something very strange – a globe shaped object, perhaps 15 cm diameter – apparently full of holes, a bit like those things that get put into vases for flower arrangements – and every hole seemed to be blowing bubbles. Odd; all I can think of is that it might have been a chance symmetrical arrangement of barnaclesExplanation here (Wikipedia) around something. Kevvo’s paddle has two barnaclesExplanation here (Wikipedia) already on the trailing edge. I covered the entire paddle with lanolin spray in Falmouth when Berri was slipped and that seems to be keeping the slime and other stuff off the rest of it.

Kevin, Kevvo is going really well – new arrangement is working with slight mods from me. There’s a tricky bit that I think you can fix with a tiny design change too – f you can get to the coming home party, I’ll show you else I’ll draw you a picture. Definitely not a showstopper and might just be peculiar to the Berri arrangement.

[Pete’s view of events]

G’day out there,

So, did he jump or was he pushed? ……I know Fenwick would like to have the story spiced up a little at this stage, what with there being no severe storms forecast for the next few weeks, the punters out there need a bit of drama to liven things up with their morning coffee, a bit of biff a decent stoush a bloody good argument about anything. Unfortunately no such luck.

I didn’t jump and a push from where I was would have been difficult to organise.

I was on top of the coachroof, just about to lace up the reef that we had put in the mainsail. I had the rope in my left hand and was leaning against the boom and mainsail, next thing I remember I was catapulted through the air and I saw the lifelines pass beneath me. I remember dropping the line I had just before I dived into the water. The whole incident from launch to hitting the water would have taken only a second. I had thought some time ago of what I would do if I went over the side and decided that the best recovery from this situation would be to get hold of the rope which trails astern with a propeller for generating electricity. I probably then swam the fastest 20 metres possible to get to the generator rope which was on the surface of the water before it trailed off under water with the propeller spinning on its end. I got there in time grabbed the rope then turned on my back and enjoyed the ride. By this time Alex had thrown the sheets and the boat was slowing down, he then hauled me in and attempted to get me on board. In calm water, it is fairly easy to get back on board via the stern, unfortunately we were in heavy seas and the stern was pitching up and down at a great rate.

Alex’s grip on my arm slipped on the first attempt and I went back down hitting my left shin on the stainless self-steering paddle ( later this was found to be badly bruised with a couple of lumps of meat missing ). The second attempt was successful and I was back on board.

So what did we learn from this. Throughout the last few days we had been doing a lot of sail changes and had probably become complacent through this repetitive exercise. The boat should have been on autopilot but apparently it had disengaged itself from the tiller and this was not noticed ( we were sailing to windward at the time and the boat will hold its course for a longtime to windward if the sails are balanced ). The preventer which stops the boom from crashing from one side to the other during an unexpected tack or gybe had been let go and earlier and not been replaced. These two things allowed the unexpected tack but it must have been a very steep wave lifting the boat’s port side violently which caused the tack. Generally you can feel the boat straighten upright just before one of these uncontrolled tack or gybe but there was no warning to this one, it was all in one movement…tip..tack…whack. We were both lucky the way things panned out.

Obviously more vigilance is required and this was a good wake up call. The problem of getting the MOB back on board proved to be a lot more difficult than first thought, Alex is now leaving a harness and tackle on deck so it can be quickly rigged if an injured MOB had to be hauled out and the place to do this is midships not over the stern. ( Berri has boarding steps on the transom and this was thought to be the best place for an uninjured person to get back on. ). What has emerged as the real problem is that if the MOB is injured or worse unconscious then we must have a routine worked out so that one person can recover the other without assistance.

To finish on a lighter note here’s my daughter SarahPete Crozier's daughter’s latest attempt to humour us.

Two old farts were sailing a small boat on a large ocean,

“Its windy”

“Its Thursday”

“I certainly am I’ll get the beers”.

Cheers everyone………..Pete.

1-21. Equator to Left Turn

Sep 18, 2005 - 0930hrs UTC

By Alex on September 18, 2005, at 0930 UTC

Topic(s): Computer crashes

0930hrs 18 Sep 2005 UTC 03’24”N 024’55”W Ref 371

DB 94,10282 (GPS 65 ) – about 6 USB crashes yesterday trying to talk to youse all. There seems to be no pattern to it except that it happens, when it does, as soon as I start transmitting. This may indicate HF energy getting into the system somewhere or that the computer reacts in some way and turns off the power to the usb. I dunno. Never happened on the way north and as far as I can see, we are configured exactly the same – all the new stuff is completely disconnected. Only difference is new motherboard in radio and perhaps some difference in wiring when it was installed in the boat. A bummer.

204 miles to the Equator – I’ve been looking for the Southern Cross but either too cloudy or to much moonlight. Must be out there though by now. We’ve got the expected lift – long may it last – and we should be able to miss S. America if it holds.

Not quite a woohoo yet.

1-21. Equator to Left Turn

Sep 18, 2005 - 1800hrs UTC

By Alex on September 18, 2005, at 1800 UTC

Topic(s): Birds, Petrels

1800hrs 18 Sep 2005 UTC 02’59”N 025’08”W Ref 372

We’ve had the same three birds with us for about a week – two very graceful flecked grey backed birds that glide around in the wavetops and settle on the water and watch us go by or sometimes park together behind us and we don’t see them for a day or so and the third is a little Black Petrel that flies and flollops around us and more or less keeps company with the other two.

Overcast and humid – short lumpy sea and we’re cracked off a bit to make the ride a bit easier. We will get headed again tomorrow but should still manage to avoid Fernando de Noronha. On present progress, we will cross the equator at about 2730W – not that far from where we were on the way up, at 2941W. Have just relented and used 5 litres of water to wash three shirts and two pairs of shorts. First litre just disposes soapy stuff through each garment in turn, then they each get 2 rinses in 2 litres. The second rinse water is just as black as the first but the things seem cleaner and smell a bit less.

From Charlie Y.

have been reading with great interest your log, your current position brings back memories of1977 we had just completed the fastnet on ballyhoo and were heading for grand canary ,barbados ,antigua,fort lauderdale where she was sold,seems like another lifetime.stan darling was our great leader , if i remember we did 7 days to the canaries and 15 days to barbados another 40 odd feet of boat made a difference.i wish you good sailing.

Charlie Y – interesting – Ballyhoo must have returned to Oz later because I started in the Sydney-Rio race in Jacqui in 1981/2 with Ballyhoo, Anaconda and a Kiwi S&S that eventually won it. We retired with a broken steering quadrant mid Tasman. I think she had a block of flats on deck by that stage. Or maybe that was Condor. Or both of them.

There’s not a lot to report, otherwise. I don’t think we’ll get to see any stars tonight, so no Southern X. We’re very much in bouncy bus shelterExplanation here bash mode, but this time we’ve got some sensible cushions, so even my bum is not complaining. Yet. Pete had to apply the Purple Unguent yesterday as a precautionary measure. We are far enough from Gibraltar’s rock-rabbits for the Brits not to need to fuss.

Can’t wait to see the new Wally and Gromit – were-rabbit ideed! Missed THHGTTG in the UK too, so that’s out there as a little candle on a distant hill. Reports we got out here were not raving but it’s not easy to do some of the jokes in a movie.

From Pete & Mary

Note your progress. Hope all is well and the wind keeps in the right direction.

Peter & Mary, nice to know you are still with us.

Roll on 1700 and G&TGin and Tonic’s.

1-21. Equator to Left Turn

Sep 19, 2005 - 0915hrs UTC

By Alex on September 19, 2005, at 0915 UTC

0915hrs 19 Sep 2005 UTC 01’42”N 025’48”W Ref 373

DB 115, 10,167 GPS 115 but now highly suss because of all the crashes. Getting back up to speed, with a bit of luck, and we’re just about laying Trindade well cracked off. A little woohooo might be on the cards, I think. 102 to the Equator, so early tomoz perhaps. We will break out Dave’s RANSA rum, but I don’t think we’ll stop this time.

Have just had my breakfast consultation in bed – noice, and the Coolgardie frudge works best overnight so it was roooly coool too. Will try to send this while propagation window still open.

1-21. Equator to Left Turn

Sep 19, 2005 - 1700hrs UTC

By Alex on September 19, 2005, at 1700 UTC

1700hrs 19 Sep 2005 UTC 00’59”N 026’04”W Ref 374

The flea has walked the walk and is a relative pooptillionth of a nanometre from the aftermost point of the crevass’d and foetid pacyhdermal rump, about to peer over the edge at the rolling creasy scaly slopes below – whence it shall be downhill all the way. We just crossed 01 00N so we’re 60 miles from the edge and the G & T is being mixed as I write. Should fall over into the southern abyss in about 10 hours – with some sadness and regret, I must say. We shall consult the DoctorGuinness from Bundaberg at an appropriate moment to console ourselves. Thanks Dave.

Welcome to all the Gusts who have written to us since YMMagazine published in the UK and YWMagazine published in the UK hit the streets – Thank You – I hope you find your end of this as rivetting as we find this end. Stephen sends us updates and we’ve just read some of your nice words. Best thing that could have happened for Cricket, Lloyd – enjoy it while it lasts. And we’d love all y’all to contribute to The Great Shirt Buyback for CanTeen – watch this space for details…

From Charlie Y.

A truly inspirational effort and great adventure. Davenport wrote a book “”the voyage of waltzing matilda”” it finishes with their arrival in the u.k. i think she was lost in the pacific some years later she was a sister ship to Wanderer( both built by jock muir) a s.hobt. winner.W.M finished first but relegated.

Charlie, I believe PD is still around – we could perhaps put you in touch.

As for the technical stuff – we’re pointing at Trindade, broad reaching at 6 knots with 1280 miles to go. There was a big low down there but it seems to be dissipating – we’re at least ten days away so everything is speculation anyway, but the decision will be whether to blast off towards Cape Town using the top of the low if it is still there or go back to plan A, around the back of the high if it reasserts itself.

1-21. Equator to Left Turn

Sep 19, 2005 – 2145hrs UTC

By Alex on September 19, 2005, at 2145 UTC

Topic(s): Meals

2145hrs 19 Sep 2005 UTC 00’30”N 026’11”W Ref 375

Some hours later – back on watch again, after what will have been the last Northern Hemisphere G&TGin and Tonic and the Last Supper (rice, corn, bacon, mungies) and I’m definitely sad – this exercise is clearly becoming finite and there is a potential end out there. How could this be? – when we set off, the whole thing seemed impossibly distant and unlikely yet here we are very much on the way home after everything seems to have worked according to plan. Preposterous really.

30 miles to the edge.

1-21. Equator to Left Turn

Sep 19, 2005 - 2315hrs UTC

By Alex on September 19, 2005, at 2315 UTC

Topic(s): Space station (ISS)

2315hrs 19 Sep 2005 UTC 00’22”N 026’12”W Ref 376

Some idle rumination – nothing whatever to do with the price of fish, but interesting.

Think Hippopotami – lumbering ungainly beasts with ill fitting folded skin (perhaps someone can find Kipling’s story – better still, Jack Nicholson reading it?) and prone to sunburn. I once saw a short film clip of hippos swimming underwater – cloudy, muddy water and they were shapes rather that detailed images – probably Attenborough rather than Cousteau – and was utterly mesmerised. These huge lumbering beasts were gliding in slow motion and astonishing beauty on dainty toes in graceful arcs like Nureyev and Fonteyn on downers. Wonderful.

I was moved by the similarity between them and the Apollo astronauts moonwalking in one-sixth gravity and more recently remembered them when I watched Eileen Collins’ breathtaking Shuttle flip a few weeks ago when she looped the big lumbering beast and held it for 93 seconds while Krikalev and Phillips in the ISSInternational Space Station filmed its belly and checked it for damage, before she brought it back to stable orbit. Wonderful stuff – that clip is on the NASA website at www.nasa.govif anyone is interested.

Here is the clip:

And I get goosebumps all over when I think that our satphone number is up there somewhere. ISSInternational Space Station 11 must be due to land soon – they will have been flying for six months in October. Leroy Chiao is in Russia supporting ISSInternational Space Station 12 as I write.

Who is this fool burbling on? Bring on Pelagia’s goat immediately – we desperately need ruminant digestive censorship on this website.

1-21. Equator to Left Turn

Sep 20, 2005 - 0247hrs UTC │Equator Going South

By Alex and Peter on September 20, 2005, at 0247 UTC

0247hrs 20 Sep 2005 UTC 00’00”X 026’17”W Ref 377

000000 261708 200905/02:47:39 Over the edge and going downhill, just in time for KatherineAlex’s daughter’s birthday tomorrow. WOOOHOOO tinged with sadness. We crossed northbound on May 3 and sailed north to almost 52 degrees at the Fastnet, with a 250 mile diversion to Cowes to the east, so, adding in the curves, Berrimilla has sailed about 7000 miles in the top half of the world.

Onya Berri! About 10000 to go.

1-21. Equator to Left Turn

Sep 20, 2005 - 0900hrs UTC │Boredom II

By Alex on September 20, 2005, at 0910 UTC

Topic(s): Belmore school, Boredom, Diesel, Pirates, Supplies & Storage, Tea making & drinking

0900hrs 20 Sep 2005 UTC 00’28”S 026’22”W Ref 378

DB i35, 10032, GPS133. Better.

Response to BelmoreSydney School corresponding with Berri SouthSydney School corresponding with Berri:

Hiya to you all in 5/6K! This is Alex, but Pete will do his bit later. Thanks for your thoughts, John, Adelia, Merna and Daniel – we are really pleased to know that you are interested in what we are doing – perhaps we could encourage you all to work hard in class so that you can one day follow your own dreams too. Maybe that’s too boring a message!

And thanks for your questions. Some of them are big questions if we are to answer them properly, so we might have to have several goes at it.

Pete will answer Nasaskia.

Junior: Why do you need all those tea bags?

I have a confession to make – I can’t count. When I wrote that last email with the teabag number, I counted one too many boxes – we only have about 1600, not 2000 – but that’s still a lot. I make my tea with 2 teabags, so I use 4 teabags per day mostly and Pete drinks more tea and he uses about the same but one at a time. 8 bags per day times the planned 110 days of our voyage comes to 880 bags. This does not take into account what are often called ‘contingencies’ – things that come along and mess up your best plans – so for instance, if there is not as much wind as we think there will be and it actually takes another 30 days, then we will need another 240 bags – so with 1600, we actually have enough for nearly twice as many days as we think we need – just in case. It’s easy to overstock with teabags because they don’t take up much storage space but much harder, for instance, to do it with fuel which needs a lot of space.

Kellie: Have you run out of petrol for the motor?

And, talking of fuel Kellie, we actually use diesel, not petrol, because it is much safer to have in a boat. Most pleasure boats these days, except for some racing powerboats, have diesel engines. We left Falmouth with 240 litres of diesel, some in 6 x 20 litre cans in the cabin, some in a tank in the cockpit and the rest in the proper fuel tank under the cabin floor. We have about 110 litres left, so we have used just over half of it. We used it to drive the boat through some of the bits where there was no wind. We are hoping that most of these places are now behind us and that we won’t need the engine much more. Fingers crossed on that one!

George: When you are bored what do you do?

It’s quite hard to get bored. We work and sleep in three hour watches and there’s usually something necessary to do like changing a sail, sending emails, cooking, making tea with all those teabags and things like that. When it is really windy, we don’t get much chance even to rest, let alone get bored. Sometimes it is difficult for me to get over my natural laziness and actually get on and do the things that need doing but that’s another problem. And we now have all you people to talk to as well – good fun. But we do have lots of books and we both have CD players with MP3 discs for those times when nothing is happening. I like doing crossword puzzles too and my family cut out a whole lot of them from newspapers over several weeks and sent them to me in England so I’ve got no excuse for being bored. Also, I have a little short wave radio and out here, i can listen to the West Indies, to Brazil, North America, West Africa and the BBC from England.

Elvis: Have you seen any pirates?

We haven’t seen any pirates – at least, not that we know of. There really are pirates in some places, who steal whole ships but we hope we don’t meet any of them. We are a long way from the coast (at least 500 nautical miles most of the time) and it is not likely that – even if there were any – pirates would come this far out.

Thats a big enough email for now – we can only send quite small ones. Macky and Yehia, I will answer yours in the next one – they need quite long answers.

1-21. Equator to Left Turn

Sep 20, 2005 - 1000hrs UTC

By Alex and Peter on September 20, 2005, at 1000 UTC

Topic(s): Belmore school, Food, Lessons learned, Man overboard, Meals, Power supply, Supplies & Storage

1000hrs 20 Sep 2005 UTC 00’34”S 026’23”W Ref 379

We had our normal Breakfast Short Consultation today, bulk billed, of course, with the medico from Dublin and then we decided that the crossing should be appropriately celebrated with a southern hemisphere based medicinal potion so – half and half Dr Bundy and ASDA orange squash was the go. Noice. Very Noice – thanks Dave and RANSA. This could become habit forming. After all, from 1400 UTC today, it is KatherineAlex’s daughter’s birthday in Oz – even before that at the Antipodes Islands and in NZ – and we will have to follow tradition and celebrate in all the time zones. Happy birthday K. Looking forward to talking to you this evening.

Big welcome to all the new Gusts – thanks for signing on – it makes our day every time Stephen sends us an update. A bit intimidating too. Today’s co-incidence – I’ve been thinking about doing a note on Berrimilla’s sails, and who should pop up in the Gust Book but the guy who made them. A roar of applause, please, all y’all for Mr Brian Shilland – a true master of his trade. More on this guy later.

Must write some more for 5/6 K at BelmoreSydney School corresponding with Berri SouthSydney School corresponding with Berri. [see below…]

20/1115
Diana and the PBers and anyone else who is interested – post Man Overboard modifications as follows:

We will rig a second, lazy preventer on the other side of the boom so that it becomes a simple matter to pull it on immediately without having to re-run it from the other side after a tack or gybe. Will also be useful for locking boom in place when we are not using the mainsail.
The MOB recovery tackle with its sling (not the same as the Seattle sling) has been retrieved from the lazarette and is now set up across the coachroof just fwd of the mainsheet track. It is designed to be snap-shackled onto a strop fitted to the boom (and now in place) or on to the main topping lift or a halyard forward of the shrouds, or to anything strong enough to hold it like the pushpit in a real emergency. It is a 4 part tackle with a jam cleat on the lower block, giving an upward pull, and there is a lazy block at the top which will enable a downward pull, for instance if the whole gizmo is hoisted on a halyard. The tail is set up to be run to a reefing winch on the boom if necessary. If we ever need it, the tackle simply unclips from its stowage and can be clipped wherever needed. Also doubles as a spare mainsheet. I hope we never need to test it for real, but I’m sure it will work.

Diana, are there Sydney PBers?

To BelmoreSydney School corresponding with Berri…

Macky: Do you use electricity? If you do where do you get it from?

That needs a big answer. Yes, we do use electricity. In fact, Berrimilla needs a constant supply of about 1.4 Amps during the day to run all the electrical and electronic systems and a bit more at night when we also need to have navigation and instrument lights on and more still when we are using the autopilot or the radio or the watermaker. We have three big storage batteries – one that is kept fully charged just for starting the engine (although it can be used as backup for the other systems if needed) and the other two, called the ‘house’ batteries, store all the electricity that we need for all the other things.

There are three ways that we can charge these three batteries.

First, the engine has an alternator, so every time we run it, the batteries get charged. We can select which batteries we want to charge as well.
Second, we have a big solar panel, which will provide about 4.5 amps in direct sunlight but is no good at night
And third, we have a generator that hangs over the back of the boat and is driven by a turbine that we tow through the water on the end of a 40 metre line. The turbine (sometimes also called the impeller – can you work out why?) is turned by the water flowing past it and it turns the generator at the other end of the line, but it only works when we are moving at better than about 2 knots. The generator provides up to 6 amps when the boat is going fast and the turbine is whizzing round, but less when we are going slowly. We can convert the generator so that it is driven by the wind by putting a big fan on it and hanging it in the rigging instead of over the stern.

Using a combination of all three of these, we can quite easily keep the batteries fully charged. Any extra electricity that we generate can be used directly to power the systems instead of using the batteries, so helping to keep them charged. We have various ways of checking for when the batteries need to be charged, but mostly, it happens automatically because the turbine and the solar panel are working.

And then we also carry lots of both rechargeable and throw away – expendable – smaller batteries for our torches, headlamps, CD players and the rest. If you are still hanging in there and interested, I can tell you about all the systems that we use to run the boat – for instance, how we send these emails. But I will wait to hear from you about that.

Silly question – do you know what a ‘knot’ is when used to measure speed, as I used it in this answer? It is quite easy to find out, (try a dictionary as a start) but I can explain it if you would like me to.

Yehia – sorry to leave you till last – Pete is going to answer your question and Nasaskia’s but, as usual when I am up writing emails, he is asleep because that is how we have to live (which may be part of your answer!) so when he wakes up, I will remind him.

From Pete:
Hi there kids,…..Pete here with answers to a couple of your questions.

First Nasaskia’s question “How many injuries did you get when you went overboard“.
I didn’t hit anything when I was catapulted overboard, it was quick and clean one second I was standing on top of the boat’s cabin the next I was in the water. A quick swim to grab a rope that was trailing overboard then Alex was pulling the rope and me back to the boat. When Alex was was helping me get back on board my arm slipped from his grip because the back of the boat was bouncing up and down with the waves and I fell back in the water. My shin scraped past a heavy piece of metal (part of the self steering gear on the back of the boat). This caused a bad bruise down my leg and cut three bits of skin from my shin, each about the size of a five cent piece. These injuries are healing well and should be better in about a week. We now have to make sure that all the ropes that stop the sail from doing what it did to me are properly connected all the time.
Now, Yehia’s question ” Is it hard to sail in a small boat“.
Let me answer your question this way….it is hard to sail long distances on a small boat.
Small boats cannot sail as fast as big boats so if you have to go a long way it takes a lot longer and this is where the problems such as storage space come in. Sailing from England to Australia we think will take about four months so we need to carry enough food for this time but what if something goes wrong, what if the mast breaks and we can’t use our big sails anymore, it will then take a lot longer so we need to carry more food. What if the saltwater gets into the food storage areas and spoils some of the food. For these sorts of reasons we are carrying enough food for six months. The problem with a small boat is where do you put it all.
As well as food we need space for all our clothes, all the spare parts we need for the engine and other machinery. We need to carry lots of medical supplies in case an accident happens or one of us gets sick. We also have to carry lots of things to make the boat work. We have about 13 sails on board and all the ropes and things you need to keep the boat sailing well. So you can imagine how much room we have left to live in……not much.
The other thing with a small boat is that out in the middle of the ocean you get very big waves and very strong winds. The big waves throw a small boat around a lot and at times make things such as cooking something to eat, impossible. That is why we have lots of grab rails and handles to hang on to, because at any time you can be thrown across the boat by a wave and you need to be able to grab something quickly to stop you being hurt. In front of the stove we have a harness where you can strap yourself in and not be thrown while cooking dinner.
For most of the time though the weather is fine and there are no big waves or strong winds to worry about, that is when we can be out on deck enjoying the sun and the fresh air and the wonderful sailing and in these conditions it doesn’t matter how big your boat is it all feels the same…….absolute bliss.

If I don’t talk to you again before your break have a great holiday……..cheers
Pete.

1-21. Equator to Left Turn

Sep 21, 2005 - 1015hrs UTC │RORC Award

By Alex and Peter on September 21, 2005, at 1015 UTC

Topic(s): Belmore school, Meals, Navigation, Pirates, Sharks, Stars

1015hrs 21 Sep 2005 UTC 02’380”S 026’24”W Ref 380

DB 125, 9,907 (GPS 135). Truckin’ along reasonably well, touch wood, hold me breff till me eyes pop and waltzing matilda. I think we have hooked into the Brazil current too, which is nice.

A bit short of sailmail connection time because of all the BelmoreSydney School corresponding with Berri SouthSydney School corresponding with Berri answers, so this will be short. K’s birthday has been appropriately marked and we will have a proper Consultative Engagement when she gets away from assignments and gets to celebrate with her friends. Might even crank up the satphone again.

As we go further south, I think we might leave the satphone switched on – just in case any of y’all want to waste your money. I’ll let you know.

RORC Award for Berri & crew:
NEWS RELEASE
RORC ANNOUNCES YACHT OF THE YEAR 2005
AND OTHER ANNUAL TROPHIES

The Royal Ocean Racing Club is pleased to announce that ‘Yacht of the Year 2005’ has been awarded to the Ker 55 ‘Aera’ owned by Nick Lykiardopulo.
This award, known as the Somerset Memorial Trophy, is awarded for outstanding racing achievement by a yacht owned or sailed by an RORC member and voted by the RORC Main Committee. It comes as a result of Aera’s success in the most recent Rolex Sydney-Hobart Race, where she took the overall handicap trophy.
Aera’s success in the Rolex Sydney-Hobart is all the more remarkable as it is only the third time a British yacht has been the overall winner in the 60 years since the race was started. The first was Captain John Illingworth who won the inaugural race in 1945 sailing ‘Mani’ and the second was the late Sir Edward Heath who won with the first ‘Morning Cloud’ in 1969.

A special award has also been made by the RORC to Dame EllenDame Ellen MacArthur MacArthur, skipper of the trimaran ‘B&Q’, for her outstanding performance in setting the solo non-stop round the world record at 71days 14 hours 18 minutes and 33 seconds, reducing the previous record set by Francis Joyon by nearly 1½ days. Dame EllenDame Ellen MacArthur is an Honorary Life Member of the RORC and first joined in 1996.

The Seamanship Trophy, awarded each year by the RORC for an outstanding act of seamanship, goes to Alex Whitworth and Peter Crozier and their Brolga 33 ft yacht ‘Berrimilla.’

Having sailed the 2004 Rolex Sydney-Hobart, the two set off to sail to the UK via the Falkland Islands, taking 159 days. They encountered severe storms with squalls of over 50 knots and were knocked down during a south-westerly gale south of New Zealand, subsequently having to put into Dunedin as Alex Whitworth had severely bruised ribs.

Having completed the voyage to the UK they then took part in the Rolex Fastnet Race, coming 8th in IRC Class 3, and shortly afterwards set sail again for Australia, in order to arrive in time to take part in the 2005 Rolex Sydney- Hobart race.

The prizes, together with all the other RORC Annual awards, will be presented at the AGM and Annual Prize Giving Dinner at the Drapers’ Hall on 22nd November.

ENDS 20th September 2005

BelmoreSydney School corresponding with Berri…
Hi everyone in 5/6S from Alex and Pete and thanks for your questions. We will have to give you rather shorter answers this time because we are only allowed about 10 minutes connection time each day to send emails and I think we are already over our limit. So here goes:

Ahmed-Do you think in the future there will be cloaking devices to hide boats from pirates???

I don’t think there will ever be cloaking devices, although it’s a very interesting idea, because it would be impossible to make a ship invisible. Force fields and gravity curtains are interesting and provocative in SF stories but not that easy to arrange in real life. The Americans have Stealth technology which makes aircaft hard to see by radar but that’s about as far as it seems possible to go, at least with the knowledge that we have now. And anyway, clever people and pirates would would soon work out how to get around the device.

Allison – What would you do if pirates came?

As for what we’d do if they came – we would do exactly as they told us, give them everything they asked for, keep very still and hope that they go away. Real life is sometimes difficult to accept, but we would certainly get hurt if we tried to do anything else.

Maria.k- Have you had troubles with sharks?

No, we haven’t seen a shark anywhere. Lots of dolphins, some whales, turtles, flying fish and bluebottles (Portugese Men O’War) but no sharks. Even if there were any, we are not planning to get into the water with them, so no problem!

Charniece- how do the stars look at night on the ocean?

There aren’t words to describe the night sky properly – there’s no visible pollution out here and on a clear night the stars over the ocean are absolutely breathtaking – there are so many and they go so deeeep into the back of the sky and it’s awesomely mesmerising to be out here under them. The Milky Way – the side view of our galaxy – is a brilliant glittering slash from one side to the other. Did you know that looking out into the universe is like looking back into time? The light from our nearest star (does anyone know what it is called?) takes about 7 minutes to reach the earth so if you look at it (DON’T – without special goggles!) you are looking at something that happened 7 minutes ago. Light from the next nearest, which I think is Alpha Centauri, takes nearly 5 years to get here, so if AC explodes as you read this, you won’t know for 5 years. This happens right out as far as the most distant object we can see, whose light takes several million years. Not enough time to talk about this but it’s interesting to find out about it. Sitting in the boat at night, I can see how small the Earth is and how big the universe and it gives me goosebumps. You’d get them too!

Dyllan- How many times do you eat in a day?

We have one serious meal in the evening and we snack for the rest of the day. We don’t need to eat very much because we are not using much energy.

Gunter- If your food gets old, what do you eat?

We have used all the fresh food that could get old and spoil except for a few onions, some eggs and some bacon and cheese. We will try to eat this before it goes bad, but once it is bad, we have to throw it away. The rest of our food is dried or in cans, so it should last for the time we are out here. We can make bread and grow beanshoots.

Rend- How do you find your way at night?

We have a satellite Global Positioning System (GPS) for navigation and that shows us the way even at night. It needs electricity or batteries to run, but if it breaks down, we can navigate using the sun and the stars and a paper chart, a pencil (yeah, really!) and an instrument called a sextant which measures the angle of the sun and the stars in the sky and, with the help of a good watch, allows us to calculate where we are. We have a magnetic compass as well and at night, we point the boat in the direction we think we need to go. If we know where we started from and our speed and direction (our velocity), we can work out where we have got to by morning. This is called Dead Reckoning and it is not as accurate as GPS but it works.

Feras- How come you don’t have air conditioning in the cabin?

We don’t have air conditioning because it needs far too much electricity to run and we can’t completely close off the cabin. We would have to keep the engine going all the time and we can’t carry enough fuel to do this. And anyway, it’s horribly noisy and we can live without it! A little 12 volt fan would be nice but I forgot to bring it, so I’m an idiot.

Karanbir- Do you ever get sick, and if you do does the other person take care of the boat for the whole time?
Melisa- Do you use medicine when you are sick?????

We don’t seem to get sick out here – we are not in contact with sick people and as long as we started out healthy, I think we are fairly safe. We try to be as hygienic as possible and to keep everything really clean as well. We have some serious medicines – antibiotics and the like – as well as a big first aid kit in case we ever do get sick, or perhaps more importantly, one of us gets injured. If it happens, it would depend a bit on how bad the illness or injury was – it’s not too hard to manage the boat by yourself, but it’s nice to have help!

All the best A & P

1-21. Equator to Left Turn

Sep 22, 2005 - 0915hrs UTC

By Alex on September 22, 2005, at 0915 UTC

Topic(s): Stars

0915hrs 22 Sep 2005 UTC 04’33”S 026’38”W Ref 381

DB: 121, 9786 (GPS 125) My propagation window now ends at about 0900, resuming again if we’re lucky, at around 1700, so I think I will not get your next post till this evening. This may not go either.

We have been outrunning the sun on our way down the heffalump’s rump and we just beat it across ADC – aft dead centre, the equator – today is the equinox. We should continue to stay ahead of it down to the Tropic of Capricorn so the bus shelterExplanation here will start to get cooler – woohoo. The moon passed very satisfactorily to the north of us last night, Orion is turning on his head with dear old Betelgeuse heading towards the northern horizon. I saw the pointers, Rigil Kent and Hadar, last night before the moon rose, but the Southern Cross itself was down in the murk layer just above the horizon. Tonight perhaps. We are still going west, by a smidgin, and we won’t turn properly for home for about 10 days at least – it will depend on what develops down at 20+ south near Trindade.

I have just discovered that some of my emails are not getting through – please let me know if you didn’t get yours. Ho Hum. I think it may be to do with virus checkers not liking our sailmail address. For instance, nothing I have ever sent to RORC has got there and I’ve been wondering almost since NZ what we might have done to offend them.

And on RORC, I think our best imitation of Uriah Heep might be in order – we are deeply happreciative of the great ‘onour bestowed hupon us and werry ‘umble. Two old geezers in a battered old boat should BE so lucky! And once again we will be late for the party. Must do better.

1-21. Equator to Left Turn

Sep 23, 2005 - 0330hrs UTC

By Alex on September 23, 2005, at 0330 UTC

Topic(s): Belmore school

0330hrs 23 Sep 2005 UTC 06’11”S 026’48”W Ref 382

Still broad reaching south and a bit west – not sure whether we are actually getting closer to Oz but it’s definitely good progress and great sailing. And getting cooler too.

It has been a lot of fun talking to BelmoreSydney School corresponding with Berri SouthSydney School corresponding with Berri and a nice diversion. We hope the kids got as much out of it as we did. Did anyone pick up the bit on the cheesy feet bacterium?

From Kevin O’S.

Congratulations on showing that a small older boat(I am the owner of Stormy Petrel) can still rate against the high tech modern boats ,a great result in the fastnet .I am in awe of your trip so far and await to hear about the trip home,Good Luck

Kevin O’ – I don’t know about rating against modern exotics – in long ocean races, luck is as important as skill – you need both in abundance, and this year was a good year to pick to do a Fastnet in Berrimilla.

From Diana H.

Subject: What Do Points Mean?

In case no one mentioned: you got the RORC Seamanship Trophy “”For an outstanding act of seamanship BERRIMILLA, (Brolga 33) Alex Whitworth/Peter Crozier””
it says in their annual awards listing.
I was at RORC last night and u got a v loud round of applause
many congrats!

Diana, thanks – i didn’t understand the subject line about Points – am I being obtuse? I sent you a direct email and it bounced – your virus scraper not liking our sailmail address?

From Charlie Y.

i dont think it was ballyhoo that started the syd/rio as when she was sold she had a total refit , was painted blue and went back to the med. as misstress quickly for the second half of her carreer. she gave a lot of yachties alot of fun over the years.as an interesting aside to our arrival in the west indies we came accross two ex. aussies yachts, freya which stan darling had navigated to her three wins, owned then by a canadian couple, still with her syd/hob plaqes and a little 30′ double ender carronade(swanson) that had been sailed like you by three intrepid aussies from syd. to cape/horn in the mid sixties i think.they took a big hit and were lucky to make it ,owned by a young yank who had singled handed it down from the us east coast.where are they now.? that was 28 years ago. keep dry, and keep those miles ticking over.

Charlie – I’ll find out which boat it was in the Syd-Rio – it was big and black. I wonder who the aussies in the Swanson were.

1-21. Equator to Left Turn

Sep 23, 2005 - 0900hrs UTC

By Alex on September 23, 2005, at 0900 UTC

Topic(s): Fridge

0900hrs 23 Sep 2005 UTC 06’41”S 026’52”W Ref 383

DB: 129, 9657 Gps 131 Definitely going downhill…

[ed: Berri is tracking about 200nm to the east of the northward journey back in May.
Map here:
]

Not much to report – the Coolgardie fridge (a TESCO supermarket tray with two cans and a wine bladder wrapped in a wet sheet kept in the shade and the wind and periodically doused) is really cooling the ointment these days – it’s getting noticeably cool at night and this morning’s breakfast Con is next to me as I write and very pleasantly below room temperature.

Steve will be away for the weekend, so you wont get any updates but I will keep sending them so you will all get a major fix on Monday. [Ed: Sorry ‘bout that]

We are on the direct line for sailing vessels bound for Cape Horn or the East Indies from Europe and the US – mostly Portugese, Spanish and English and Dutch in the early days. Then came the Germans, the Americans from the US east coast – traders bound for California and Nantucket whalers and then everyone else down to todays round the world racers and silly old geezers. In the early days, most of the Cape Horners would have been to the west of us here, preferring to sail down the coast, but once time became important and ships were better able to sail to windward, they would have followed almost exactly our route, before some turned east as we will in a week or so. If we could bring them all back to life for a moment, I wonder what we would see. There would be ships from horizon to horizon – all shapes, sizes and rigs, Magellan, Drake, Anson, Cook, Bligh plus R K-J, Chichester, Connie van Riechshouten (?)and the Whitbread Racers, and the Volvos, Ellen MacArthur, Pete Goss, the Vendees, Old Uncle Tom Cobbley and all. And then there would be all the others going North from the Horn as well. Quite a crowd – Sydney Harbour in 1988 would have nothing on it.

PeterB thanks for your note – did you notice the coincidence? It will be the second time we have shared a platform with Nick Lykiardopulo and one if his Aera’s. The last time was after the 1998 Hobart, when he won IRC and we won PHS but we really couldn’t celebrate. I hope this will be different. but we still have to get home to enjoy it!

From Trudi S.

Thank you very much for the personal message, Alex. Well – I am not sure what the requirements for Ham radio are in Oz, and things have changed recently, as in most countries morse has been made obsolete, which is a pity in many ways, as a morse signal would sometimes get heard in poor conditions when a ssb one is unreadable. At the moment conditions are too poor for anything to get through, it seems. Our singlehander on the Lunatic is not doing very well, his position yesterday at 19.00UTC was 02º25’north, 04º06’west, wind is SSW 10k, he is getting a bit close to the African coast, I think, I am not sure that is a good thing…..Here’s hoping the wind will be better when you get there, keep a good lookout for all that traffic in you area and fair winds from Trudi

Trudi, thanks. I think your single handed friend may be in trouble. He is probably stuck in the north flowing current along the African coast where the SE trades are southerly or even SSW. If it were me, I would be looking at trying to sail WSW or SW to about half way across, getting lifted all the way and then turning south east near Ilhas Martin Vaz (Trindade) at 21 S 28 W. It’s a long way and I would have to cross most of the South Atlantic twice to get to Cape Town, but perhaps my only hope of making any distance south. It would almost certainly mean going to the west and south of the predominant high in the S. Atlantic. Does your friend have enough food and water? Martin has probably told you that we are nearly 700 miles south of him now and way over the other side at 07 22 S, 27 00 W.

1-21. Equator to Left Turn

Sep 24, 2005 - 0930hrs UTC

By Alex on September 24, 2005, at 0930 UTC

Topic(s): Computer crashes

0930hrs 24 Sep 2005 UTC 09’08”S 027’11”W Ref 384

DB: 145, 9512 gps 147. Wooohooo. And what a day! the Swannies get up, we’ve got 4000 miles in the can, going down the hill.

We had an early email from Jeanne with the result, and then a satphone call. Noice. So we had a little consulting session for the Swans and another 4 4k nm.

From Simon B., Digiboat

[…] just reading through Alex’s adventures and discovered he’s still having USB problems? My own onboard experiences with laptops has shown me that mechanical failures can be common – with the USB joint being levered up and down with normal use, the soldered joints holding the socket does “”crack”” off the motherboard.

If this be his case, then inconsistant and erratic behaviour are to be expected.

However, I did read sonething in his logs that might be important:

Sitrep: 1715hrs 07 Sep 2005 UTC 18’26”N 025’51”W Ref 339
Does anyone know how to permanently remove the serial ballpoint mouse so that it doesn’t boot or isn’t seen by XP?

This is the WRONG idea, he actually wants the wrong mouse driver to install itself (serial ballpoint mouse driver), then to DISABLE it in Device Manager – NOT delete it! (He may need to unplug the offender after it installs itself to regain control of the laptop, so he can get to Device Manager).

Installed like this, XP will now: “”see”” the USB converter as the serial mouse, check for a driver – FOUND – but disabled, so won’t use it as a mouse, leaving it free to be used correctly by other programs.

Anyway, don’t know if he’s resolved it already, or if this approach is the solution, but I offer it anyway.

Simon, I’ve worked out how to disable – but you cant do it if the whole screen has gone ape. I tried on the last crash and got the blue screen. It destroys the active desktop as well and makes a real mess. Deleting the serial ballpoint when it appears (not always) seems to work. Still have to repair the desktop each time..

G’day to all the new Gusts – welcome aboard the flea’s back. We’re racing south as fast as its little legs will carry us.

From John S.

I Have thoroughly enjoyed following your voyage since 700 miles west of the horn…I sent an email re super glue somewhere off Rio, but have enjoyed your reference to being on the Fox sound stage and buckets of water being thrown over you at irregular moments….I too am in an upside down cruise liner and a small group of us have been battling our way out since June, we have survived the water and explosions and flooding that happens in an upside vessel and we hope to emerge into the daylight early in Nov…

We are on the sound stage at Warners in Hollywood, and even tho I am an OZ and live in Sydney ,I am privileged to be able to work on these kinds of films ..I joined with Wolf \gang Peterson to do “”The Perfect storm “” a few years back

The film is a remake of “”The Poseidon Adventure “” and will be released in May 06

Safe sailing

John S., I hope your boat comes in too – and the Vogon constructor fleet leaves you alone.

From Richard G., Malta

I wish both of you the best of luck. I have relatives in Sydney and one of my cousins races his own boat in Sydney Harbour. You may wish to contact me directly maybe you may meet when you get home.

Best regards from Malta

Richard G, I will contact you direct as soon as I can. You can send us more details if you like via berri@berrimilla.com.

From Bill W., Sydney

Only now just caught up on your logs to current. Great trip (congrats on Fastnet what a great result). See you in december at RANSA.

Bill W at RANSA – we are really looking forward to a twilight or two!

From Jose V.

Indeed, there are people out here that are are keeping an eye on what you’re doing and wish you all the best. Hope you will be able to get some nice wind now – after all you’re following pretty much the route that Vasco da Gama (and Pedro Alvares Cabral – he seems to have been the first European to get to Brazil) followed some 500 years ago. I just hope you’re having more fun than they did!

Jose -I wonder what da Gama and Cabral would have made of GPS and weather by email grib file and above all, a satellite phone? Cabral was probably the first one to find his way back to make a report… Selwyn, G’day.

We’re still a bit gobsmacked by the RORC award – something to be proud of and appreciate for ever. Shame we can’t go and collect it – late again for our second RORCfest.

1-21. Equator to Left Turn

Sep 25, 2005 - 0949hrs UTC │Sail Change

By Alex on September 25, 2005, at 0949 UTC

Topic(s): Sailchange

0949hrs 25 Sep 2005 UTC 11’24”S 027’20”W Ref 385

DB 134, 9378, gps 146, day 36, 74 to go. Seems we are about a third into the planned 110 days and we’ve sailed about a third of the distance – but it’s all in the unknowable variables. Now in 40 kts.

I don’t know how it happened but I have just lost about an hours worth of hard worked middle-of-the-night creative headbanging as I was trying to get it to your breakfast tables. I’ll have a go at recreating it, but it may lack that je ne sais quoi that comes from the immediacy of experience. Here goes:

Small milestone: we are south of Bamaga, (this was written at about 1049S) at the tip of Cape York Peninsula, the northernmost point on mainland Oz. Woohoo!

Just spent a rough and wet half hour doing a sailchange in 35 knots – I was lying awake on my sweaty bunk cushion listening to Berri crashing into waves and creaking and feeling the rig flexing and generally stressing. Climbed reluctantly out about half way into my sleep time because I knew there was no hope of sleep till we’d fixed things. Short confab with the pee bucket and pass it up to Pete in the cockpit to empty and rinse and discuss what to do. Agreed sailchange necessary, down from #3 and a reef to #4 and two reefs. Into full party gearFull wet weather gear for the first time for a long time – the whole works, WWGWet weather gear. See Party gear, lifejacket, tether, gloves, epirb etc. but this time over T shirt and shorts – you may ask Why bother? – partly for protection if things go wrong and it’s always better to stay dry if possible. Pete put the rest of his on, we turned on the spreader lights – wild gyrations, bright flashing sheets and clouds of spray, solid water running down the decks. Pete went forward while I ran the boat down wind a bit to ease the motion and reduce the quantity of water over the top. When he was tethered and ready, I dropped the 3 into his hands as he dragged it flogging across the lifelines onto the foredeck. He tied off the halyard, I locked it and went forward up the lee side, knee deep in water occasionally. I moved the sheet car to the #4 position on the way, took the sheets off and started to pull the foot then the leech of the 3 aft into a rough flake as P unhanked it. It has a full width batten about a third of the way down and this is bigger than any sailbag on the boat and also the hatch, so its a pig to bag and stow, but we got it done, still braced on the heaving foredeck sitting in streams of water. P hanked on the 4 as I went aft down the weather side, moving the weather car on the way. We left the sail flaked on the foredeck while we put in the second reef (with the preventer on this time!) and then adjusted Kevvo to sail upwind again, hoisted the 4, adjusted the sheets and we were going faster than before, in the same direction but sailing almost upright over the waves rather than crashing through them. Much easier motion. Will go through reefing procedure in another update.

Tidied up the spaghetti of reefing lines, sheets, halyard etc in the cockpit. By this time drenched in sweat inside the party gearFull wet weather gear and soaked outside – skin on hands starting to pucker. Only half an hour of sleep time left, so no point in going back to bed – just took off safety gear and jacket, dropped WW pants to knees, removed Tshirt and wrung it out and hung it on stormboard while I made a cup of tea. Tea made, shirt back on, hitch up pants, give P an early mark and take Tea into cockpit where cool 35 kt breeze starts to dry T shirt. Hit a nasty wave sideways, huge blast of almost solid spray into cockpit and over dodger and shirt soaked all over again and tea salsified. Poo!

That’s more or less it. In Falmouth and Lymington we carefully fixed all the leaks into the cabin – really successful except for the one right over my bunk. Drip drip… Will try to plug it with lanoline later when the deck stops messing me about.

From Doug M.

I am still following your journey with anticipation with what the next day will bring. Your mind picture of Friday 23rd with all the history makers travelling north and south together was great but it made me contemplate a sad event in my ancestry that took place at a position in the Sth Atlantic where you may soon pass closely by.

In 1852-53 my gr gr grandfather Henry Knight, a humble gardener and his family had a horror of a trip on the immigrant ship JAVA. The voyage took over six months from the Thames estuary to Sydney heads and over fifty died on the trip, some from starvation ?!. Henry wrote a heartrending diary which a number of years ago I transcribed and both the original and my copy now reside at the Mitchell Library Sydney. Poor Henry, despite his efforts on the voyage had two of his children die of starvation, one in the Sth Atlantic and one as they entered the harbour at Capetown. Henry’s diary descriptions of these events bring tears. There is a small slip of paper glued into the front of Henry’s Bible, written by the ships captain dated the 6th February 1853 (after two and a half months at sea) for the burial at sea of Henry Knight Junior aged 13 at 28deg35minS by 26deg 9minW. The thought of a friend or two passing by might cheer young Henry up. Could you please dips your lids as you pass him by? I am sure he would appreciate it.

Doug, there’s a small pink waypoint on my chartplotter for young Henry at 2835 S, 02609 W. They must have been stuck in the Horse latitudes. We should pass fairly close, I hope a bit to the north, but we will certainly say G’day and dip the lids. Could we post your email with the story, please? I think it helps to recognise the ghosts that live out here. Please let Stephen know if ok. I will visit the original when I’m next in the Mitchell – which reminds me – there’s a story there too. Later.

From Ron C.

I suppose you have no way of sending images to Berri but I suspect that this one might have special significance for Alex. I’m not a sailor so I don’t know where Gabo Island features in the “”ten lighthouses”” navigation method but I’m sure it has been a regular source of comfort for Alex. What is special about the photo is that it was taken from an Adastra aircraft (probably an Anson) in 1948. It came to me recently as part of the Tom Carpenter Collection. Given the sailing and Adastra connections, it could be one of those “”Alex Whitworth this is your life”” images. I’ll leave it with you for what it’s worth.

Thanks Ron – I look forward to seeing it.

From IsabellaAlex's sister Whitworth

Hey there chaps and all that. Glad comms with RORC ok eventually. No, I think we’ll pass on the poss of £196 for beans on toast, ta ever so, and also hope you can find someone to go and accept your gong, or whatever it is they give you. I expect the news of Hurricane Rita has reached you by other means than me, but if not it’s hitting right now (Sat am our time) demoted to a Category 3 but still 400 miles wide, expected to dump a foot of rain and last from 12-16 hours. They evacuated Galveston and a lot of Houston and the resultant traffic jams stretched 120 miles as people set out north. Then many couldn’t buy gas and broke down so the chaos was spectacular. However, overall preparations at least seem to have been better managed that Katrina. The aftermath is another problem. Sadly, the repaired levees haven’t held up in NO and the city is reflooding. More anon. We have a guest this weekend and so are steaming around the countryside looking at the sea, Dartmoor and observing the definite approach of autumn. M an R are 18 next sun and so we are going out to have a posh lunch with them on the day. Yest we went to recce the hotel and the thing that sold it to us was the small spotty pig that was trotting about the place. Not, I think, one intended to end up as jambon flambe au creme anglaise or whatever, so we think it’ll be there next time looking cutesy XX croo

Isso – hurglaffboolagerry budnoodladingburtle to M & R for 18.

And Brian S, your time will come! Just a bit busy… The old main now has about 30 patches but still going strong.

1-21. Equator to Left Turn

Sep 26, 2005 – 0915hrs UTC

By Alex on September 26, 2005, at 0915 UTC

0915hrs 26 Sep 2005 UTC 13’38”S 027’24”W Ref 386

DB: 138, 9240 GPS 128 (long crash) Another wet and windy night, down to 3 reefs, but now seems to be easing. Nasty front forming to the south. Propagation dreadful so will keep this short. It seems my idea about a Team Berri bid for the shirt at the Lord Howe auction is not going to happen unless anyone out there wants to volunteer to organise it – it’s a big ask, and I think we will quietly drop it otherwise. A pity.

1-21. Equator to Left Turn

Sep 27, 2005 - 0530hrs UTC │Rutters

By Alex on September 27, 2005, at 0530 UTC

Topic(s): Rutter

0530hrs 27 Sep 2005 UTC 15’24”S 027’06”W Ref 387

I’ve been taken to task (what’s the derivation of that expression?) for leaving out Australian and Kiwi round the worlders from my mind picture of all the sailing vessels passing here over the centuries – so, apologies to Kay Cottee, Naomi James, David Adams, Don Mcintyre and Peter Blake – to name a few. And I got Connie van Rietschoten wrong too, but who wouldn’t? He won the first two (I think) Whitbreads in boats called Flyer and he was reported to have told his crews that if they went overboard in the southern ocean, he would not turn back to look for them. A practical man!

We’re plugging on through the night. Going through a series of squalls about 20 miles apart with 35 knots and pretty vicious seas. Uncomfortable, frequent sail changes and quite hard work just to hang on – you have to do everything one handed while holding on grimly with the other, your toes and eyebrows too. Berri banging through the seas as well, but short of slowing down to 3 knots or so, we can’t do much about it. Would be trivial but for the seas.

Have not yet seen the Southern Cross – it has been cloudy to the south for days. Clearing as I write now, so will go up and have a squizz and make a cuppa with some dunkers. Which done, I have to report that things change out here rather fast. I went up into the cockpit with my cuppa to find the sky completely overcast again.

I know I’ve been banging on about this a lot in these logs – and I’m going to do it some more: Nelson said of Cook that you had to be familiar with the sea to appreciate the magnitude of Cook’s achievements. As someone now reasonably familiar with the sea and going back to that mind picture of all the ships here together and then transporting the picture to the North Atlantic, a Viking longship was a marvellous vessel for its time – seaworthy, fast and rugged and it almost certainly got to Newfoundland via Greenland long before Columbus found the West Indies. Think, though, of the conditions for the crews on those voyages. Berrimilla is a tiny world, but enclosed, relatively dry, very uncomfortable but bearable for very long periods, with sophisticated watermaking technology and safely preserved food and the space to store enough to last for at least a year as long as the water holds out. And she sails very efficiently to windward, with GPS to record every twitch of her wake. A longship was open, the crew sat on thwarts or on a deck below the thwarts in the spray and the rain where they also slept, probably in running water for a lot of the time. They had to bail with buckets. Their sails were made of wool and could not sail better that about 45 degrees to the wind, their wet weather gear was cowhide and they had to store water in casks and food preservation technology was salting and drying. One of those in a North Atlantic storm would have been desperately frightening and cold, with the crew unable to cook food and close to death from exposure and starvation. And on top of all this, the captains had not only to preserve their vessels and crews on the way out but also remember how they got there and then find their way back and pass on the knowledge. No GPS, no instruments, probably no facility for writing, no charts. I don’t know whether any of the longships ever got back from Newfoundland but it would have been an astonishing achievement if they did. A nation’s capacity for empire building – or theft on a grand scale if you are a revisionist – depended on this capacity to get superior technology into action in distant places and then get home again with the spoils and the knowledge.

Closer to where we are now, there’s an account of this process written by Bernal Diaz, who was one of them, of Hernando Cortez’ destruction of the Aztecs with his few hundred soldiers and sailors and their guns, horses and armour (and considerable local help) not very long after Columbus first found his way back to tell them how to get there. I read it as a schoolkid and wondered then – but not half as much as I wonder now. I might bang on a bit more about rutters and charts and computers in another update.

1-21. Equator to Left Turn

Sep 27, 2005 - 1040hrs UTC

By Alex on September 27, 2005, at 1040 UTC

1040hrs 27 Sep 2005 UTC 15’46”S 026’58”W Ref 388

DB 125, 9115 gps 128. As you can see, we are creeping infinitesimally eastwards again. We have been further east since the equator, but this may be the beginning of the real turn for home. As I write, we are heading directly for Tristan da Cunha nearly 1500 miles ahead.

We have passed Ascension Island and are just passing St. Helena way over to the East. Watch this space – here’s hoping. I have learned not to take anything for granted out here, though.

1-21. Equator to Left Turn

Sep 27, 2005 - 1200hrs UTC │“All Were Lost”

By Alex on September 27, 2005, at 1200 UTC

Topic(s): Henry Knight, Rutter

1200hrs 27 Sep 2005 UTC 15’51”S 026’55”W Ref 389

I’ve been thinking about young Henry Knight and the thousands of people like him who died out here in truly appalling conditions and have no marker or memorial – some, like Henry, properly buried at sea with a log entry and a tiny slip of paper to record the position, but most just abandoned like a bucket of galley slops. Think for instance, of the million or so Africans who were just tossed overboard from the slave ships when they died, unnamed and unwanted. It must have been quite common to sail past floating bodies and, in the very worst calms, they would have floated with the ship for days perhaps. This is my tiny attempt to pay my respects to them all and to acknowledge their existence. Perhaps their ghosts will find a little comfort in our passing and remembering them. Perhaps not.

My father, who flew aircraft off carriers and survived the second world war and would never talk about it, used to sit quietly and play Kathleen Ferrier singing ‘Blow the Wind Southerly’ and I could see that it affected him emotionally – not just the sheer beauty of her unaccompanied voice but also the words. I think I now have some idea about why. As an illustration, Hilary did some research for us into Pedro Alvarez Chabral and found that he was sent by King Manuel 1 to follow Vasco da Gama’s route to India. Sailing with him were four tiny caravels commanded by Bartolomeu Dias. All were lost. Think of the grief, courage, pain, uncertainty and loneliness in those three words – all were lost. Many of my father’s friends disappeared without trace too (and even some of mine) and Kathleen Ferrier was his way of remembering them all. I will play it for Henry and all the others when we get closer to him.

Kathleen Ferrier singing ‘Blow the Wind Southerly’ on YouTube

Yesterday I wrote about finding the way back. Every captain kept a log of a sort, partly to get him home again and partly for those who were to follow. It was more a word picture of what they saw and did – “we steered through the night towards two bright stars close together and the swells came from the east…”. The Dutch called these logs ‘rutters’ and I think the French equivalent would be ‘routiers’. I don’t think there is an exact English equivalent – routemap is the best I can do – even the dreaded travelogue, perhaps. Pedro Alvarez Chabral would have carried a copy of da Gama’s rutter. These rutters were highly prized and were seized by the national authorities whenever any captain was skilful or lucky enough to find his way home and they became part of – in today’s terms – a nation’s intellectual property. The Portugese kept them in an archive in Lisbon until it was burned down in the 1700’s and the Dutch, English and Spanish guarded them carefully as well. Nevertheless, copies were made and smuggled across borders and I have seen an amazing atlas that was presented to Henry VIII that is almost certainly the result of this covert intelligence work. There is conjecture that Cook had pirate copies of the early Portugese or Dutch rutters when he sailed through the Torres Strait for the first time.

As an afterthought, modern computer gizmos are called routers.

1-22. Still heading south south east

Sep 28, 2005 - 0530hrs UTC

By Alex on September 28, 2005, at 0530 UTC

Topic(s): Ellen MacArthur, Supplies & Storage

0530hrs 28 Sep 2005 UTC 17’20”S 026’48”W Ref 390

The night started dark and overcast – gloomy and drizzly and very empty. We haven’t seen any sign of other humans since Pete saw a distant ship near the CapeVerdes nearly 2000 miles behind us – and I stood out in the cockpit a few hours ago and had a little crisis of confidence. We really are a long way from anywhere with an even longer way to go. Keeping it all together for another 72 days and half way around the world is a bit daunting. That’s a few hours longer than it took Dame EllenDame Ellen MacArthur to break the record. Circumnavigating at walking pace is not for the squeamish. Or the sensible.

And then the sky cleared, with the astonishing speed that the weather does change here and there are stars and distant Universal time out there and it doesn’t seem so long after all. But there’s very little to report. I think we will reach Trindade in the next couple of days, passing about 100 miles to the east. We will start to feel the high and its attendant uncertainties from about there and it will govern just how far south we will have to go before we can really turn to the east. For the meteorologically challenged, high pressure systems in the southern hemisphere rotate anticlockwise and the wind moves out from the centre, so to get around the South Atlantic high we must go with the wind down its western side and then turn east as the wind flows around its southern side. The trick will be to avoid the calm patch in the Horse latitudes along the southern edge of the high. As I look at the grib files, it seems to me that around 32 S will be decision time.

In the last couple of days we have pulled the insides of the boat apart, delved for buried gin and cider, found clean clothes and soon to be required thermals, repacked emptying ready use food boxes, inspected the remaining supply of The DoctorGuinness and found it to be in excellent condition and repacked it along with the remaining Smoothies. Spraying the cans with WD40 seems to work, but keeping them dry is probably the real secret. We have raised the storm gear from the bottom of the heap in the forepeak and generally transmogrified things. We have calculated that we will run out of tonic before we run out of gin, probably with at least a month to go, so we are preserving a litre of lemon squash, just in case, and moving into an alternate day regime – G&TGin and Tonic on odd days and cider on even days – to eke out the supply. There just wasn’t room to cram in anything else. We have some bacon and eggs left and we will set about despatching these fairly quickly to make sure that we don’t have to chuck them. Berri seems to be in good nick and, as far as we can see, everything is working. I am never sure from day to day whether I will be able to keep resurrecting the USB link, but so far so good.

1-22. Still heading south south east

Sep 28, 2005 – 0930hrs UTC

By Alex on September 28, 2005, at 0930 UTC

Topic(s): Supplies & Storage

0930hrs 28 Sep 2005 UTC 17’36”S 026’50”W Ref 391

DB: 113, 9002 (gps 116) day 39/71.

If we have the plan worked out correctly, this is the equivalent point to our departure fromPort Stanley. It took us 71 days to get toFalmouth. We’re in a soft spot, #2, full main, bright sunshine, tracking 200M and for the first time for days, no water over the deck so we can open a hatch and blow away some of the greenish gases. We are now significantly south of the sun and it is definitely getting cooler. Woohoo.

We have started to open some of the Ryvita biscuits we brought fromSydney- they have been given a huge bashing, even in their big plastic bins, and some of the packets have chafed and let in moisture. Big plastic bins are fine when the store room isn’t moving, but they crack and split very easily when subjected to any lateral stress (of which they get heaps) or twisting. So they are all damaged – but much better than nothing. If we’d had time – and knew better – an individual ziplock bag for each packet would have been the go – are you listening, Brian and Jen??

Propagation improving – You will get this via sailmailChileorAfrica. Another milestone.Chileis CEV773,Africais RC01.

1-22. Still heading south south east

Sep 29, 2005 – 0445hrs UTC │Henry Knight: Key explanation

By Alex on September 29, 2005, at 0445 UTC

Topic(s): Henry Knight, Stars

0445hrs 29 Sep 2005 UTC 19’01”S 026’52”W Ref 392

Mal – I think half way down the Atlantic was just north of the equator. By my calculations, we have sailed about 4400 miles from Falmouth and we have 2700 to go to a point south of Cape Town. And 9000 to Tasmania, or about 80 days at current rather doddly progress. We’ll catch up once we get down past 35 S.

Here at 19 S, just past Townsville and closing on the Tropic of Capricorn and Rockhampton, it’s a moonless night with the apparently permanent light haze that filters the deepest background out of our universe and brings in the bowl of night so that it does not seem to reach the same black infinity as it did in the southern ocean. As the sun sets, Venus dominates the sky to the west at about 30 degrees, Rigel Kentaurus and Hadar, the two pointers to the Southern Cross, are prominent directly ahead but the Cross itself is still in the haze layer just above the horizon. Venus is so bright that it has its own sparkling reflected trail on the water. Orion is at about 30 deg in the east as I write, at 0430 UTC and there’s a bright reddish object north of Orion that must be Mars, which I have never seen so clearly. Saturn is hidden in the haze low in the east and the Great Bear and Polaris have gone.

We haven’t seen a bird for days – wonder how our friendly Cattle Egret fared on its way back to Africa – and the phosphorescence has gone except for individual twinkles. It’s fun watching these when pumping the toilet at night too – not the most romantic image, but definitely fun. No dolphins, although I think I saw flying fish a day or so ago.

Malcom has been sending us details of the voyages of the Viking longships – I had always imagined, rather stupidly, that they had a very long passage from Greenland to Newfoundland, but not so – the longest island hop from Norway all the way across was about 500nm, relatively easily covered with the right amount of luck with the weather and the accumulated knowledge of those that managed to get home again over the years. But even 500 miles in a longship in North Atlantic weather would have been a touch trying. The economic incentive to make the trip was cod – which they dried and traded. The Basques got in on the act not very much later and it would be interesting to know whether they found the Grand Banks for themselves or whether they stole the Norsemen’s Baedecker.

Doug, thanks for the Knight diary extract and for allowing us to post it with your email. Like you, I find it desperately sad and we’ll certainly say G’day to young Henry in a week or so. I think we will pass quite close to him.

[ed: the extract…]

Alex/Pete,
I have absolutely no problem with you repeating or posting my little thing with my ancestor Henry Knight and his poor son. I cannot read the following aloud without breaking up – it is a very tough image. Here is what Henry wrote in his diary the day his son, young Henry died. He was buried the next day.

regrds
Doug M

5th February 1853

5Fine day very Hot Calm Henry very/ Ill could not take but very little Susan A little better betwixed 8 and 9 O’Clock/ Henry went down stair’s took A Counterpane down with him that he had/ been laying on all day previous to this he had been to the Closet but once all day/ as soon as he got down to our Berth he started to the Closet I followed after him was/ in the Closet with him we talked together a good bit I then went up on the upper/ Deck same time Henry went down I stayed a short time up on Deck because my/ wife was washing the children and she could do better with the little Girl when I was/ out of sight as she used to cry after me, mean time Henry had gone to the Closet/ again and for the last time he was heard to groan but no one it appears Knew what/ it was or who it was he had fasten himself in the Closet with the Hasp as was the / way of most of the Emigrants and therefore could not be got at under 15 or/ 20 Minutes no one had suspected a death had taken place untill the Door was opened/ but so it was poor fellow he was quite dead sitting on the seat & perhaps my/ friends can be a better judge what my feelings were than I can express I took/ George to see him after he had been carried into the Hospital which was the place/ where all the Dead were taken poor fellow he wept over him most bitterly nor/ was he the only one that wept for none of us expected/ all this

I don’t think I have written about this in this log, only to Ron at the Adastra website, but Doug’s mention of the Mitchell Library reminded me. In about 1981, wearing a completely different hat, I carried out a stack survey in the NSW State Library. The stack is an amazing place – it goes down about 6 levels below the street and there are hundreds of kilometres of shelves of books, artefacts, paintings, maps and newspapers. I was wandering through it one day when I saw, on a shelf, a line of the big nine inch film cans that held the 240ft rolls of film we used to use in the massive Wild aerial survey cameras in the Adastra aircraft. And – most surprisingly – the surgical tape we labelled them with had my own handwriting on it. There were about 30 of them and they were the partial record of a survey we carried out in Timor for an Indonesian oil company. We were based in Kupang with the DC3 and we had to fly the exposed film to Baucau in what was then Portugese East Timor to put them on the Ansett aircraft to Sydney. They are now out in a repository somewhere, as one of the last remaining traces of Adastra.

1-22. Still heading south south east

Sep 29, 2005 – 0900hrs UTC

By Alex on September 29, 2005, at 0900 UTC

0900hrs 29 Sep 2005 UTC 19’18”S 026’46”W Ref 393

DB 105, 8897, gps 101 40/70 and still inching eastwards. In the middle of huge re-invention of our space – jerry cans going, external tank inside, empty cockpit etc. stuff everywhere while the wind allows – so must keep this short.

From Paul R, Brunei

Hello from a Pom at 04 35′ N 114 15’E. I’m yet another who has been introduced to you via my YMMagazine published in the UK subscription. I have been delighted to read your very readable log and follow your progress. “”Who’d sail in the tropics?”” you wrote a few days ago. There are a small group of us here in Brunei who do so on a regular basis. We have an aged Hood 38 which belongs to Brunei Shell which we use at weekends to sail round the oil platforms. That’s about as exciting as it gets (apart from the thunderstorms). Fortunately, even though we live in a dry country, the Sultan allows us to attend a special clinic where we can find doctors from England and Ireland plus of course the Singapore doctor (but he has been known to do more harm than good!). There are lots of your fellow countrymen here, in fact it’s a little home from home for them. The local supermarket sells Arnotts biscuits, Coons cheese, Vegemite and we even drink Australian milk!

Reading your logs has caused me to ponder on how our paths cross as we wander through life. I realized that without knowing about you both, or Berrimilla until a few days ago, our paths have crossed twice in less than a year, separated by huge distances. The first was when I watched the start of the S2H from Shark Point in 2004 when I was on holiday with the family (hired motorhome, down the coast as far as Jervis Bay), and I found the second when browsing through your pics. I spotted Buckler’s Hard, I had never been there myself until as a tourist in my own country in August, I missed you by a couple of weeks! I had a memorable pint outside in the sunshine on that very bench!

So here’s to you both as I consult with the Manchester doctor, Dr Boddington, (who now apparently comes from Luton), you’re an inspiration to myself a mere youngster of 53 who would leap at the chance to sail back to blighty from here one day. Grounded at the moment, non-sailing wife, teenage kids etc. but I’m with you all the way, and I’ll raise a glass as you pass Perth (almost due south from here) in a few weeks time!

G’day Paul R – we’ll wave fromPerth- I’ve been to one of those clinics too – I needed a medical certificate before the Consultation took place! Just up the road from you inLabuan.

Nice one, JG.

1-22. Still heading south south east

Sep 29, 2005 - 1500hrs UTC │ About Berrimilla's Sails

By Alex on September 29, 2005, at 1500 UTC

Topic(s): Sails

1500hrs 29 Sep 2005 UTC 19’39”S 026’39”W Ref 394

When I bought Berrimilla in 1993, a year before the 50thSydney-Hobart, she came with about 20 sails all pretty much way past their use-by dates. We sailed around a bit and tried them all out to see what worked and decided that a new main and #1 would be the go.

I had heard from a friend about this guy out at Brookvale called Brian Shilland who made good workmanlike sails at the right price and I went out to talk to him. I discovered that he already had a full sail plan for a Brolga – an incredibly tattered old blueprint with a lot of superimposed shapes on it. Pure coincidence – he was making sails for the only other Brolga out there racing competitively, Take Time (which, at about that time, won the CYCCruising Yacht Club of Australia Blue Water Points Score with Brian’s sails). We talked about sails and sailplans and agreed on a fully battened main, triple reefed and with a bit more roach (curve along the trailing edge of the sail to give it a bit more area) plus a couple of headsails, a #1 and #2, all in bogBrolga Owners Group basic Dacron.

That main and those two headsails are with us today, 12 years later – the main sailed 8 Hobarts and 4 or 5 Lord Howes, winning PHS in one of each and the headsails went about half as far. A third headsail, the lightweight #1 is the much modified ‘cutdown’ I mention every now and again when we are twin poled. The heavy #1 is pulling us along as I write. Likewise the main, which has about 30 patches in it and added rainwater gutters but it still has shape and works well. I reckon that’s value for money and they owe me nothing.

Since then, Brian has made all our sails, including a series of experiments – the splendid assymetric kiteSailors’ slang for a spinnaker, unlike any other, which we designed together and a staysail and a cheater and a big exotic #1. There have been 4 other kites, two #3’s, a 4 and a 5, a very sexy orange storm jib and a new main, exactly like the first. At a guess, the lot probably cost me less than a new exotic main for aSydney38 and the Fastnet result shows we can still be competitive with it. Occasionally!

Brian has become a good friend. He moved out of his loft after a rent hike and into his big garage at Curl Curl and it’s always a pleasure to go out there to see him and talk about the next job. Very much the craftsman and he has always produced the goods, on time and in budget. The only sails in the wardrobe that he hasn’t made are the trisail and the old sto

1-22. Still heading south south east

Sep 29, 2005 - 2200hrs UTC

By Alex on September 29, 2005, at 2200 UTC

Topic(s): Communications, Satcom C

2200hrs 29 Sep 2005 UTC 20’14”S 026’26”W Ref 395

To the Cookie Crumbler – buckle on those angel’s wings and get over here with the kit, kiddo – I haven’t had a haircut since the one you gave me way back when. It’s not a pretty sight. We are about 2500 miles north east of you and about as close as we will get – with a bit of luck. Please pass on our congratulations and best wishes to C & H if you can, and greetings to Suzanna. Did you ever find out who lives under the table?

From David McK

How have you found the performance of Sailmail? Do the time constraints limit your access to Grib files etc? Are you using the satellite systems at all at the moment? Which Satcom C hardware do you have. My quick research into this area suggested a terminal would be around $13,000-00 without installation. (Gulp)

David M – sailmail is fantastic as long as you understand its limitations and have the patience to work within them. It is cheap (once you’ve bought the radio and the modem and the laptop) and it works. As you can see, we can feed a website with it from anywhere in the world and that’s only half the traffic – Steve sends us a couple of downloads of your mail each day and I get a new grib file every couple of days – about a 4k download each time and that’s our weather. You do need a bit of practice with interpreting grib – mostly to do with matching scale and speed and reading the movement between each snapshot. For SatCom C, I have a Thrane & Thrane TT 3022-D Capsat which was supplied by Telstra as a Sydney Hobart tracking device about 10 years ago and then offered to us at a reduced price. I’m sure there are second hand ones at a couple of thousand dollars or less if you ask – try calling Marty Andersen at RPA, 02 9979 6160 who did our Sailmail installation – he had one in his hovel up there at the time, about june last year. It is very expensive to use for email – a cent per keystroke – so we only use it as backup, but it is fantastic for free weather forecasts and safety messages all over the world. It is important that you get hold of charts of Met areas in the places you plan to go and you register and log on with the Land Earth Station (LES) etc. Talk to Electrotech inMelbourneabout this – 03 9646 0555 was their number some years ago. Technically, you need to get your operators’ certificate endorsed before you can use it, but as there are no courses available, this seems to be applied mostly in the breach. You will need an account with Xantic – a Telstra outfit – to use it for email plus an application called Easymail (Electrotech again) and you have to pay for the messages you receive as well so you must nominate email addresses that are authorised to send to you. Alternatively, anyone who has a Xantic or other account can use that. I hope that answers your questions – but check it out for yourself.

From Trev, Ireland

have just discovered about you both,have sailed 40 yrs, but nothing like what you boys are doing, i think its utterly amazing what you are doing, my total admiration and deepest and most sincere wishes to you both, wishing you fair winds, keep at it, if you ever get to ireland call in and it will be my privilage to the home of the doctorGuinness and give you a very long consultation with him.

Trev inIreland, great to hear from you and we’ll come a’knockin next time we’re close.

From Ross McD

I hope Peter is going to try out for the Olympic swimming team. They may have a new event, the flick dive & 50 metre spint with an underwater start. How is Berri holding up? Does she creak and groan more or has she weathered the journey well.

Ross – Berri is developing some new squeaks and creaks but holding up really well. The next bout with the southern ocean will be the real test, in a month or so. Still can’t see the Southern Cross because of the cloud.

From Malcom C.

You guys are nautical giants relative to Chris Columbus. In Chris’s first trip of discovery he left Spain on 3 August 1492 stopped at the Canaries for a few weeks (I guess that is when R&R was invented), left the Canaries on 6 September and arrived at Bahamas on 12 October. Hence longest leg was 36 days, shorter than summer holidays in Germany.

On the return he left Hispaniola on 16 January sighted the Azores and arrived Lisbon on 4 March, a mere 47 days at sea. A walk in the park!

The durations of your port to port legs leaves young Chris for dead. Also a GPS unit would have been no use to him because there were no satellites until 500 centuries later. Likewise sat phone, VHF, UHF are useless if no one else has one.

Take heart oldtimers you are more hardy then the great navigators.

Malcom – interesting. But 35 days in theSanta Mariawould not have been a pleasant outing, I suspect.

1-22. Still heading south south east

Sep 30, 2005 - 0330hrs 30 UTC

By Alex on September 30, 2005, at 0330 UTC

0330hrs 30 Sep 2005 UTC 20’36”S 026’17”W Ref 396

We passed east of Trindade a couple of hours ago at 2624 W. Another black, moonless, porridgey sort of night. The darkness has texture and substance, the wind comes and goes but we’re still moving east. We are in the area marked in all the literature with the word ‘Variables’ and they have a point.

1-22. Still heading south south east

Sep 30, 2005 – 0915hrs UTC

By Alex on September 30, 2005, at 0915 UTC

0915hrs 30 Sep 2005 UTC 20’57”S 026’18”W Ref 397

DB 102, 8795 GPS108, 41/69

Bleeaah! Raining, bleak, cold, wind comes and goes from 5kt to 25. Water temp 22 deg. Have to get out there and hand steer at the low end – big swells from at least three directions and poor Kevvo gets the yips. More or less heading for a waypoint at 30 S, 23 W which seems to be where it may all start to happen. That’s 600 miles or about a week away and everything could change. But we’re moving and we will pass quite close to young Henry in about 5 days time. Looking forward to saying G’day.

1-22. Still heading south south east

Sep 30, 2005 – 1130hrs UTC

By Alex on September 30, 2005, at 1130 UTC

1130hrs 30 Sep 2005 UTC 21’07”S 026’12”W Ref 398

Hi Amanda! Are you guys following us on the website? If you are, we’ll send you greetings every now and again from strange places. Like, maybe the Kerguelens or the Crozets.

1-22. Still heading south south east

Sep 30, 2005 - 1400hrs UTC

By Alex on September 30, 2005, at 1400 UTC

Topic(s): Barnacles, Belmore school, Ghosts, Henry Knight

1400hrs 30 Sep 2005 UTC 21’20”S 026’09”W Ref 399

First, a quiz question for the geniuses at BelmoreSydney School corresponding with Berri SouthSydney School corresponding with Berri. I expect you all know that the sun sets in the west. This means that if you stand on a beach anywhere except in one place on the entire east coast of Australia, you will see the sun setting over land. It goes down behind trees or sand dunes or houses or cliffs. To be on the beach and see the sun setting red over water, you need at least 20 km of water to the west of you and there is one place where this happens. One of my friends has been there and he says it’s true. I don’t mean right at the north end of Cape York, which isn’t really the east coast and even there, I think Horn Island gets in the way. So where is it? No prizes, but you might be interested in having a look.

It has been a transformation week – the boat now has more space, all the remaining fuel is inside and low down where it ought to be, we’ve traced a leak that was giving us something to think about and we’re getting ready for the sleigh ride in a couple of weeks time. We’ve been on the port tack since the Cape Verdes and I’ve been cutting barnaclesExplanation here (Wikipedia) off the hull under the starboard quarter with a long knife. There are hundreds, all about 3 cm long and growing fast. The topsides at that end are already covered in green slime.

Half way in days on our schedule happens on October 14, but I think we will have a bit of distance to catch up. On the way there, we will pass quite close to young Henry Knight and we will leave him some chocolate and a jelly snake – a century and a half too late, but I think his father and mother might have felt some tiny comfort if they had known that someone would pass by and remember him.

I think it’s most unlikely that any of us will be remembered in 150 years – Henry’s memory has survived because his story was written on paper. The noise the human race is making now, mostly digital, radio and optical, will, I think, be unstorable and unreadable but not necessarily irrelevant in a much shorter period. Which reminds me of a lovely SF short story by, I think, Robert Heinlein called ‘BeepA short story by James Blish’. Heinlein’s mind picture was that every radio and optical transmission ever made from the earth fills a sort of expanding cone with a hemispherical base, racing out into the universe at the speed of light and the speed of the earth’s passage around the sun and through space. ‘BeepA short story by James Blish’ was the idea that at some future time it could be harnessed into a single ‘beepA short story by James Blish’ and if you had the right equipment, you could delve into it. There’s a lovely line about a cry for help from the captain of some lost space freighter out on the edge of the known universe – I’ll have to find it and read it again.

Harrumph. Bring on the goat.

1-22. Still heading south south east

Sep 30, 2005 - 2330hrs UTC │It’s Woolly Black

By Alex on September 30, 2005, at 2330 UTC

2330hrs 30 Sep 2005 UTC 21’10”S 026’05”W Ref 400

It’s woolly black. It’s raining. There’s nowhere to sit inside the boat on the port tack so out in the cockpit, crouched under the dodger. Berri and I move through the night together – there’s no outside world, just the glow from the instrument lights reflected back from the cockpit sides and the shiny bits of Kevvo and the pushpit and the backstay and the eerie shadow of our Oz ensign flapping on the tiny afterdeck in the light from the sternlight at the masthead. Rhythmic thumping as the waterlogged RANSA burgee flaps against a shroud in the 25 knot breeze. The occasional crash as we hit a wave and the spray flashes back over the dodger and I cringe back even further underneath its friendly but very limited shelter. The shudder as the forestay shakes after the impact of the wave. If I pull my hood tight around my face and risk peering over the top for long enough for my eyes to fill with rain and accustom themselves to real darkness, I know that I will be able to – just – make out the dimmest, faintest silhouette of the #3 against the background of the cloud which seems to wrap the horizon very close all around us. The surge of water around the hull and the brilliant gleam of the masthead light reflected by the glowing white of the spray and froth as it bustles past us and occasionally a few sparkles of phosphorescence. Lovely. Uncomfortable, dank, miserable but lovely. Wouldn’t be anywhere else. I wish I could film it so that I could replay it some time in the noisy city and remember how I feel and how at the same time, perversely, I long for dry clothes and a comfortable bed and more that a couple of hours sleep. About 68 days to go.

We must still cross 45 degrees of longitude to passCape Town. FromCape TowntoTasmaniais another 130 degrees, so 175 in all, just under half way around. FromSydneyto Cape Horn was about 140 degrees, plus another 70 toGreenwich. 175 against 210 – definitely on the way home. The log says we’ve sailed 21,800 miles since leavingSydney. Probably a slight over-read, but we have also lost some miles when it failed just after leavingHobart, so near enough. And about 8500 to go to Hobart and another 600 back toSydney, so it’s looking like about 31,000 if we finish the job properly. That will be a reasonable year’s work for a battered old boat. The wind has just pounded in at 35+ knots – must go and sort.

1-22. Still heading south south east

Oct 01, 2005 – 0930hrs UTC

By Alex on October 1, 2005, at 0930 UTC

0930hrs 01 Oct 2005 UTC 23’00”S 025’58”W Ref 401

DB:127, 8568 gps 127 42/68

Following my last note, it got worse. And worse. 3 very wet, gyrating sailchanges from the 3 to the 4 to the 5 with a reef each then drop the main altogether. We have just put it back up with three reefs. The wind went to 40 kts and stayed there, with 4 metre swells from everywhere -really confused lumpy sea, Berri really crashing about, impossible to do anything like cook, read, chop the dried fruit – raining hard and I haven’t slept for 24 hours because I feel every crash and shudder. Wind back to 35 + but manageable. This wasn’t in the guide book or on the last grib I pulled in, but it is getting us south and east. About another ten days before we can catch a downwind ride, perhaps three down to Henry.

And three more hours before I get to try to sleep again. The boat feels much better – for the moment. This has been changing so fast that we could get anything or nothing in the next couple of hours.

Laura,Marietta, Flop and Conor – did you get my email about the RORC dinner? I’ll assume you did not or are not interested if I don’t hear from you in the next week. Please at least acknowledge the email if you got it – I don’t know nothing out here.

1-22. Still heading south south east

Oct 01, 2005 – 1200hrs UTC

By Alex on October 1, 2005, at 1200 UTC

1200hrs 01 Oct 2005 UTC 23’11”S 025’56”W Ref 402

[Ed: wow – navigating around the world seems easier that instructions from Alex to me to collect the RORC trophy!]

Stephen – to get to RORC, go to Green Pk U/G station, leave by the Piccadilly South Side exit, which puts you at the NE corner of the park. Go round the news stand into the park and walk south down the big walkway to the left of the grass for about 200 metres. There are houses and gardens on your left until you get to a very narrow alleyway with high fences between two gardens that actually goes under a house at the far end. Walk through and turn left in the street you come to. RORC is the building facing you with the flags. Ring the doorbell… If you pick your time, the bar might be open.

1-22. Still heading south south east

Oct 01, 2005 - 2230hrs UTC

By Alex on October 1, 2005, at 2230 UTC

Topic(s): Franklin Expedition

2230hrs 01 Oct 2005 UTC 23’50”S 025’41”W Ref 403

Out of the Tropics and south of Rockhampton.

The last few days of nastiness have led to my renewing acquaintance with the boot ferals, who have been isolated and alone since before the Fastnet. Those of you who have come to know and love them will be pleased to hear that they are alive and thriving. Fiercely so, in fact and as they have been evolving in separate communities, each with a festering sock, there are now distinct Left and Right variations, like Darwin’s Finches. There is even a set of different dialects and it will be interesting to monitor developments as cross trading via the sock exchange (ugh!) resumes over the next few weeks.

Tonight has a soft and gentle overcast and there is a horizon with glimpses of stars – last night’s suffocating viscous blackness has gone and the spiteful mix of wind waves and cross swells has halved. Berri is on the wind in about 20 knots pointing at Tristan da Cunha.

We’ve become used to setbacks and now take nothing for granted, but it does seem that we may have started on the long curve around towards a point at 40 S belowCape Town. There is a tight front forming to the south with a low behind it and I think we are just inside the top edge. If we are really lucky and can stay in it for a few days it will boost us across – but I think we are too slow and the following high will catch us and force us back to the south and around behind it.

Still no Southern Cross – continuously cloudy to the south, No people, no birds, no dolphins no nuffin. Just smelly old us, feeling distinctly battered after the last couple of days of sail changing.

From Malcom C.

While things are still fresh in yr mind, it’s timely to be thinking about the book. It came to mind this morning while poking around my bookshelves. Came across a book I won at school way back in 1962: “”The Voyage of the Golden Lotus””. It was about three kiwi country blokes in their early 20’s, two of whom were junior officers with the Union Steamship Company. In 1960 they decided to have a traditional Chinese junk built for them in Hong Kong, in the traditional way, except for a small 8.5hp Lister diesel, and sail it from Hong Kong to New Zealand (8,500 NM) via Christmas Island (Indian Ocean, Timor, PNG, Cooktown etc). which they did in 6 months from December 1961. The junk had been launched in November 1961

Once back in NZ, they commissioned a co-author who often wrote about sailing, and the 220 page book with piccies was published in late 1962. Each copy of the first edition had a 4 square inch piece of the junk’s mainsail attached inside the cover (which I still have).

This book and the book “”Endurance”” about Shackleton probably helped me end up as an oceanographer and many years before the mast, or on the bridge.

Think of the influence a book about your voyage might have on any number of kids if pitched at the right level.

Malcom, I’ve forwarded your suggestion to a couple of people – perhaps the book and the cd? Thanks for the Red Lief saga.

Geoff C, g’day – I last saw you up onMoretonBay- how did you go? I hope you got your ticket.

From IsabellaAlex's sister Whitworth

As you didn’t reject my suggestion that yr next major voyage in 10 years or so should be north south via NW passage I assume silence implies consent. Good news was that I didn’t realise that Amundsen did it between 1903 and 1905 in a small ketch, wintered over twice, knocked up a couple of inuit women (seems the thing for Norse explorers to do a 1000 years apart) but got through E-W and returned. Slow pace was due to stuff called ice in winter. Greenhouse effect should make the voyage across the top of Canada in this century much easier. Just this past hour there has been a neat doco on ABC TV (which if you have forgotten is radio with moving pictures). Seems while wintering over Amundsen learnt a few tricks form the inuit that he used when he went to the south pole in 1911. Gentlemen start your planning.

Is, did you know that there’s a book about the discovery of the graves of two of the early victims of the Franklin Exped’s lead poisoning. They were buried deep in the permafrost and almost perfectly preserved. I don’t remember the title or the author but it was fascinating and tissue analysis supported the lead poisoning theory. Each had been autopsied before burial- also interesting.

Setbacks – is there no constancy? The clammy darkness is back and it’s raining again. Tedious. I’ve just hand steered through a calm patch, sitting under the boom because I can’t see the wind indicator from the other side – anyone who has been there will know about the masochism involved. The mainsail gathers gallons of rainwater, which flows along the boom and off the end, arriving in a waterfall just where neck, hood, collar and face interact. Yerk!

And yet another sail change – in my sleep time, as usual – and we’ve got 35 knots again.

1-22. Still heading south south east

Oct 02, 2005 – 0550hrs UTC

By Alex on October 2, 2005, at 0550 UTC

0550hrs 02 Oct 2005 UTC 24’21”S 025’31”W Ref 404

40 kts – #4 & 3 reefs. Series of squalls with rain – may last 10 minutes, maybe 10 hours. Painful.

1-22. Still heading south south east

Oct 02, 2005 – 0710hrs UTC

By Alex on October 2, 2005, at 0710 UTC

0710hrs 02 Oct 2005 UTC 24’17”S 025’29”W Ref 405

Down to no main, #4 fk, big swells. Dawn – wet. bedraggled, tired.

1-22. Still heading south south east

Oct 02,2005 – 0900hrs UTC

By Alex on October 2, 2005, at 0900 UTC

0900hrs 02 Oct 2005 UTC 24’35”S 025’26”W Ref 406

DB: 128,8440 gps 102! This will be hard to write – Berri moving so violently – rolling, pitching gyrating – braced at nav table but precarious and likely to be thrown out any time. Steady 35 kt from east, trivial in most circumstances but huge confused swell, #4 only no main, #5 would be better but coping – just. Moving about massive effort – have to brace with both hands & feet, find balance, transfer one grip at a time and hold on during the worst rolls. Several more days likely. Will pass fairly close to Henry. Feeling every crash and judder and shake and groan. Awful. Berri unhappy too.

1-22. Still heading south south east

Oct 02, 2005 - 1500hrs UTC

By Alex on October 2, 2005, at 1500 UTC

Topic(s): Cone of silence, Waves

1500hrs 02 Oct 2005 UTC 25’03”S 025’20”W Ref 407

Still creeping east despite the conditions. I’ve been trying to read the swell – the dominant one seems to be from the east or just north of east at about 5 metres, with a similar one from further south, but on top of that it is complete confusion with the occasionally amplified freak monster that has several waves from all over coinciding and contributing. Looking down from the top of one of these is a bit like looking down from about the fourth floor – but without nice solid walls to sustain the confidence. These are the nasties, coming from anywhere and throwing and rolling Berri all over the place and, if we hit them at the wrong angle, dumping tons of water on deck and horizontally into the cockpit. The dodger is just big enough to cower under if one is unlucky enough to get caught out there but it’s not much fun, especially when it is raining as well. If one is inside, the boat lurches and gyrates and yaws and rolls and stuff jumps in the air and you hear this shuddering crash from the bows as they slam into the wall. The rig quakes and the forestay shakes and then there is the sound of rushing water and you can see it flowing blue and frothy past the windows. Everything is damp if not outright wet that is not double wrapped in plastic and ziplocks. We are in a bit of a lull with the sun showing occasionally, but I can see more rainclouds and squalls away to the east so I’m not going to shake a reef. The cone of silence is permanently down now but at least it is cooler and I’m no longer drenched in sweat behind it. Noice to be out of the tropics.

My interpretation of our latest grib file says we will get two more days of this, with the possibility of a lift on the second day. That file is now three days old and I’ve sent for another which should come it when I try to send this.

We are in contact with the Chile and Africa sailmail stations and get reasonable coverage here although propagation is still woeful. If it goes this afternoon, this email will reach you via Africa, RC01. We can just hear, but not read, the Patagonian cruise net operating on 8164 mc out of Ushuiaia. I hope we can speak to them as we go past but I now think that is unlikely. A great bunch of people. If anyone is going down there, the regular sked is at 1200 UTC.

I’ve lost touch with all the new gusts – I lose the plot and fail dismally to say g’day to you all but thanks for signing on and for your hugely inspiring words and good wishes. Stephen sends an update every now and again and it’s inspiring to know that we also inspire. Thanks.

From Danny P.

Read the article in YMMagazine published in the UK … Love your web site and all the pics …Very new to the sport … Totally blown away with the spirit of adventure you guys must install in people, particularly in these days when every one looks for the easy option in life…An inspiration to us all !!! … Was born in NZ (Hope you do not hold that against me) 42 years ago and moved shortly after, dream one day of sailing back there to see family… Look forward to reading your logs … Thanks

Danny P, you have to make these things happen! If you want to sail home, then somewhere there is a first step.

From Helen O R.

Remeber me – Conor Mansfield’s partner (2000 S2H)…. Well can I tell you that Conor checks your progress daily. We are on hols and he still has to find an internet cafe to check your progress. So even in Italian wine territory far from the raging sea he needs his fix of Berri progress! I’ve heard of winos and alcoholics but a Berri holic is something else… Just bloody well hurry up so we can have a consultation of our own with no interruptions!!!! (I confess that I also check up on ye both occasionally…..) God speed and keep up the informative log

And Helen O’R, of course I remember you – sad we missed Conor at the Rock. Tell him to read his work email asap – there’s a bit for him about the RORC annual dinner. If I don’t get a full house, (quite probable) and the two of you are interested, you could both go. If your pockets are long enough.

From Brian and Jennifer

Good to see things are cooling down for you. I’m not much for the heat either – hence being holed up in Dunedin. Brian and I have been diligently saving ziplock bags from our shopping adventures (and all shopping expeditions in Dunedin are an adventure) since you first mentioned their efficacy. Ours will all have Ma Higgins on one side – I don’t mind as long as they work!!

Brian and Jen – hard to believe that we were only nine days into this potboiler when we met you in Dunedin. That seems to be about as far away as the Viking voyages – how goes the boat hunt? Assuming we get this old lady back home again and finish the job, there will be a lot of gear for sale if you are interested. I think, for instance, my faithful sextant should move to someone who is more likely to need it, and we will be looking to part with the truly wonderful Kevvo and the Ampair generator and maybe the solar panel. Books, pilots, maybe a laptop. A couple of colonies of boot ferals, some foetid socks – all going for a song.

From David C.

Laura: (Father doing fatherly things as he reads your log) – yes she did get the e-mail about the RORC and will (I say so!) answer if she hasn’t done so already.

David C – thanks for fatherly concern. How are you both?

1-22. Still heading south south east

Oct 02, 2005 - 2200hrs UTC │Violent Tea Drinking

By Alex on October 2, 2005, at 2200 UTC

Topic(s): Bus shelter, Life aboard, Tea making & drinking

2200hrs 02 Oct 2005 UTC 25’31”S 025’13”W Ref 408

If you happen to be very very unlucky, sitting in your bus shelterExplanation here on the Fox studio lot with your clackerboard and your nice mug of tea – very very unlucky – the Vogon constructor fleet will arrive and decide to chuck you about a bit. Drench you with their foul smelling bilge water. Scratch and grunt a lot and give you the full benefit of Vogon armpit though the atmosphere control vents. You, of course, will keep your cool, brace for the worst, hold your nose for as long as possible and continue sipping your tea.

You will have developed the technique over several unlucky episodes and it goes like this – first, of course, make the tea – tricky if you haven’t got past this bit before they arrive – and then sit with your toes curled around the edge of the opposite bench, heels firmly wedged underneath, non-tea hand gripping the nearest upright and shoulders wedged under the frame. It’s black darkness – so black that you can feel it.

Next bit all done by feel. Tea hand holding mug in float mode – arm half extended but kind of hanging loose, every sense twitching for the feel of the next bit of violence, arm and hand in continuous fluid motion trying to keep the surface of the tea horizontal. Now for the really tricky bit – getting the tea into the face calls for truly advanced technique – move mug towards face, senses now in overdrive, blow across top of – hopefully – horizontal tea and extend puckered lips towards rim of still moving mug.

If you get the coordination right, tea, mug, arm, lips and bus shelterExplanation here will all freeze for a nanosecond while tea is transferred across the gap. Mostly, you will get it wrong and at best, mug will depart from face at warp speed leaving nothing behind. Then there are grades of disaster starting with half mug of scalding tea in mouth and over face requiring instant ejection to prevent serious burn. If mug, meanwhile, has moved – fluidly – away, then there’s nothing to eject into and clean up will be necessary once Vogon armpit and other nasties have been neutralised.

I expect you are getting the picture. No doubt you are sitting at your computers with nice square bottomed mug of tea in Newtonian conjunction with desk – well, it ain’t always so. I’ve just come in from the cockpit having managed to get about a quarter of my tea actually into my face. And there are 67 more days of this? What are we doing here?

I think that we will be in this stuff for another week or so and then it could quite possibly get worse. The fronts down south look very intense – the grib puts the average wind speed in the current one at 45 kts – so 60 – 80 knot gusts. I hope we will be able to stay north of that lot but I’m not sure how it will work out. I’m hoping we will start getting some definite westerly airflow from about 30 S but we might have to go much further. Cross your fingers and toes, all y’all – this is where we start to earn our keep. Should get a bit easier once we can turn downwind, but that may not happen almost to Cape Town.

1-22. Still heading south south east

Oct 03, 2005 - 0830hrs UTC │ Bus shelter and Vogons

By Alex on October 3, 2005, at 0830 UTC

Topic(s): Bus shelter, Conspiracy Theory

0830hrs 03 Oct 2005 UTC 26’10”S 024’58”W Ref 409

Between Double Island Point and Noosa.

Just put the main back up with 3 reefs. Pathetic really – 25 knots of breeze but we cant afford to go any faster until the seas abate – or until we know these squalls have stopped. Which they haven’t – there’s one a couple of miles to windward looking at us.

Wendy P, we’ve just Consulted with one of your medicinal potions and very effective it was – thanks. Haven’t got to the sweeties yet – they are for when things get really tough. Which they will.

A word of explanation for all those who have signed on after reading YMMagazine published in the UK or YWMagazine published in the UK: all this twaddle about bus shelters and Vogons goes back a long way – before we spoke to the International Space Station, somewhere in the south Pacific. I started to make fun of the conspiracy theorists who know – doesn’t everyone? – that NASA never got to the Moon, it was all done in a Hollywood studio. Likewise, we’re not really flogging ourselves through the South Atlantic – we’re in Fox studios in Sydney dreaming it all up over countless Consultations. The bus shelterExplanation here was a way of explaining how the cockpit moves around in the warehouse seas down there on the other side of the Horn or it might have been this side – I don’t remember. And Vogons? Well, a bit of Hitchhiker never does any harm. Interestingly, I’ve been listening to my tiny Chinese short wave radio when the weather has allowed and there’s a station which I’m sure must be based in the southern USA on which the talkback host and his callers seem to be convinced that the US Government has the technology to influence the weather and was responsible for sending Hurricanes Katrina and Rits to the Gulf of Mexico. They get quite passionate about it. I wish – would someone ask G Dubya to fix our little spot of bother down here and send us off towards Cape Town!

1-22. Still heading south south east

Oct 03, 2005 - 0900hrs UTC

By Alex on October 3, 2005, at 0900 UTC

0900hrs 03 Oct 2005 UTC 26’18”S 024’57”W Ref 410

DB: 107, 8333 GPS 107. 44 down, 66 to go and I can listen to the last le Carre Constant Gardener disc any time – I have managed one a week and it has been something to look forward to.

1-22. Still heading south south east

Oct 03,2005 - 2130hrs UTC

By Alex on October 3, 2005, at 2130 UTC

2130hrs 03 Oct 2005 UTC 27’11”S 024’18”W Ref 411

A good friend of ours, who has sailed about as many miles as we have, wrote and told us that when he read “It’s woolly black. It’s raining.” a couple of days ago, he was instantly right there in the cockpit with me and he wondered how many others were squeezed in there with us, not letting on. I thought it would be interesting to ask – did that piece transport anyone else out here? And as an extension, are there favourite bits of the log for any of you? And why? The ‘why’ is the fascinating bit because it speaks about you and your experience. If anyone is brave enough, perhaps you could write a few lines about it and we could post your stories (suitably anonimised if you wish). My sister has her favourite entry stuck to the wall near her computer and I suspect that any such list would have very few duplicates.

Malcom, thanks for book details on the Franklin expedition – here they are. I may have borrowed your copy.

Re book about bodies in the permafrost in NW passage. Book is available on Amazon. “Frozen in Time: The Fate of the Franklin Expedition by Owen Beattie and Geiger. Fascinating book especially if you like colour piccies of deep frozen jolly jack tars, Beattie is an anthropologist. The book was republished as a new edition in 2000. I guess I have an unusual book collection.

From Joanne C.

No I don’t have a Radio Operator’s certificate or First Aid, but I do have Sea Survival and knowledge of First Aid (through bronze SLS medallion)

The boatshow was good, weather was nice – lots of new boats but not much new gear. I went to the RORC on Tues 22nd and was very happy to hear you had won the Seamanship Trophy, well done, I posted a small story on the YWMagazine published in the UK website about your triumph and the fact that our boat won the RORC IRC 1 series overall so we’re pretty happy about that. I am going to the fancy ball in November, a shame you will miss it but I see you are trying to get friends to go in your place which is good.

I hope the weather has abated for you – 45kts gusting to 60-80 doesn’t sound very nice for ol’ berri.

I didn’t see Giles Pearman at the boatshow, but sent him an email. He is looking into paying for my flight to Australia which is great so I will see what happens. But he was concerned about 1) you being able to enter the race 2) you being able to get back in time for it.

If you could give me a rough idea about your progress then we’ll see how we go. From what I can tell you said you have 8500 miles to go which is gives you about 2 months or so?? Otherwise I may have to leave it for the next year…which may be a better idea as I do wonder whether I am ready for such a big race…though I would feel very safe with you guys of course. How much experience have your past crew members had?

I hope all is going well out there and you’re amusing yourselves by trying to drink your tea!!

Jo, thanks for your note – I’ll write to you soon.

I think we have missed the big front further south – we are just hooking into the top of it and have been lifted round onto about 150M – noice. I hope it continues to lift – it should, for a day or so. The wind and seas have abated a bit and it’s a lot more comfortable. We will pass Henry tomorrow morning, probably about 75 miles to the north east, and we will have a small ceremony for him.

I’ve just been up to look for the Southern Cross – it’s still buried in the murk layer but the pointers are bright and clearly visible. Venus is huge on our starboard quarter with a glowing aura and Berrimilla’s wash is rippling through the reflected trail.

Special moment.

1-22. Still heading south south east

Oct 03, 2005 - 2350hrs UTC

By Alex on October 3, 2005, at 2350 UTC

Topic(s): Birds, Henry Knight, Petrels

2350hrs 03 Oct 2005 UTC 27’19”S 024’09”W Ref 412

It’s all too much. We haven’t seen any sign of life or humans for what seems like about a month – since just after the Cape Verdes, when the last of the birds left us. Today, we were joined by a black petrel, which followed us loosely as it went about its business – then a second, a third and a fourth. I think they may have got bored with us – certainly not a food source – and they have gone. And then – great excitement – I have just seen an aircraft. There may, of course, have been lots more but they are not so visible in daylight. This one was very high, flying roughly parallel to our course, perhaps a bit north, so going to Cape Town perhaps. But from where? Rio or Brasilia would be the obvious candidates.

Doug, since we were lifted earlier, I think we are now passing as close to Henry as we will get, at 129 miles to the North East. I have been out to wave and say G’day and when we are both awake early tomorrow we’ll send him some goodies. We’ll be a bit further away, but we have to do it in daylight.

1-23. Next landfall Tasmania

Oct 04, 2005 - 0715hrs UTC │Paper boat sent towards Henry Knight

By Alex on October 4, 2005, at 0715 UTC

Topic(s): Henry Knight

0715hrs 04 Oct 2005 UTC 27’34”S 023’40”W Ref 413

And now it’s tomorrow – At 2734 S 2340 W 04/0715, with the sun just breaking the horizon, we sent a little boat full of goodies towards Henry. It had two jelly snakes, a red one and a yellow one, from Australia and half a bar of chocolate from England, tied up with the green and red ribbons IsabellaAlex's sister gave us for the shroud telltales. They probably come from China.

Photo of the telltales, from IsabellaAlex's sister’s website.

We made a little boat from a cardboard Arnotts biscuit box and floated it off towards him.

The wind will be taking it down to him as I write. We took photos and a bit of film [link] for you and fortified ourselves with a Special Consultation from the DoctorGuinness’s sample chest. And we thought about all the others as well.

Watch the video
Youtube – 1:04

1-23. Next landfall Tasmania

Oct 04, 2005 – 0900hrs UTC

By Alex on October 4, 2005, at 0900 UTC

0900hrs 04 Oct 2005 UTC 27’41”S 023’34”W Ref 414

And today’s fix: DB: 111, 8333, GPS 117, 45/65. We are heading south east to try to stay with the northerly airflow for as long as possible and – with a bit of luck – ride it round as it backs to the west. Wood is being touched and fingers are crossed. And Pete is making bacon and eggs. Life could be worse – I’m glad we missed the front. If we get lucky, those that follow will have moved below us by the time they get across to us. We intend to stay at about 34 S until we get almost across, and then we will assess the best latitude to run.

1-23. Next landfall Tasmania

Oct 04, 2005 - 2315hrs UTC

By Alex on October 4, 2005, at 2315 UTC

Topic(s): Meals, Stars

02315rs 04 Oct 2005 UTC 28’27”S 022’19”W Ref 415

Where do I start? How do I keep this going for another 65 days? First – today had that element of magic that blasts away the awfulness of the last couple of weeks with radiance and warmth – bright, dampish sunshine, the old barge a clothes horse for every mouldy sock and festering shirt, for wet weather gear and the boot ferals, for, indeed, those delicate parts of the anatomy that tend themselves to fester when unable to hang out – as it were. I’m wearing dry party gearFull wet weather gear pants as I write – we need to wear them because the cockpit at night drips with Poseidon’s version of dew – similar to an English country version but in spades. The unimaginable bliss of dry party gearFull wet weather gear!

And the wind today – started from the east and backed all the way round to the north east and lifted us so that we are now pointing at our waypoint south of Cape Town. Perhaps jumping the gun – my ability to predict this stuff has been abysmal, so you’d be wise to bet against me – but the latest grib file that I have pulled in says it will continue to back to the NW and will blow for at least the next 3 or 4 days – that’s 500 miles down the track. Noice if I’m right. We will pass about 300 nm North of Tristan da Cunha. On which, I’ve been reminded that the entire population was evacuated to Calshot/Fawley in 1961 when the volcano blew and my family helped to get them all to church on Sundays. I was at Dartmouth, I think, so missed them, but many of those people must be back there now.

And we’ve been astonished, amazed, confounded, gobsmacked even, and in my own case a bit scared by the response to the YMMagazine published in the UK and YWMagazine published in the UK articles. So many of you have written to us and said nice things, told us about yourselves – thank you all. It seems that we have blown a few sparkles across some dusty dreams and perhaps ruffled some memories. I don’t think I can respond to you all – I’m sorry, but there just isn’t the capacity on this link, but I’ll do my best to do so generally.

Some specifics -

Marcus H, England:

I have a restaurant and would be grateful to know what you guys eat, normal conditions prevailing. I may put something on the menu Berrimilla style.

A standard Berrimilla breakfast, when we have the goodies, is a bacon sandwich, preferably on lightly fried bread, with lots of tabasco assisted on its way by a liberal Consultation. It works for lunch, dinner, night time snack or any old time really. Daily food this far out tends to be anything from a can or packet that goes with rice, pasta, cous cous and TVP (textured vegetable protein to you) and boosted by curry paste and more tabasco. I think your customers would depart in droves. But my all time favourite is lightly fried bread spread with Frank Coopers Oxord Thick Cut Marmelade. Beyond belief wonderful. Breadmaking is tricky when the Vogons are around – armpit flavoured and flat is the usual outcome – if they have really departed for a day or two, I might give it a go. Pete does the daily cooking for our one hot meal and I love him dearly for doing so. I’d generally settle for a can of beans with a spoon.

Paul R in Brunei:

So many thoughts occur to me as I read your logs. Lots to say but not sure how to condense it. Firstly, establishing comms with the outside world is a bit of a challenge here too! My connection has been very sick for a few days and painfully slow, sometimes refusing to download a single page, must be a fallen coconut tree somewhere. You’re having trouble sighting the southern cross & the Brunei authorities are having trouble sighting the moon for the start of rammadhan. They couldn’t find it last night, so we all had to go to work today!

No favourite parts of the log yet.it’s all good! I was wondering though how early entries compare with recent ones. Did you expect to be so popular when you started off? Did you start off writing for friends and relatives? Has your style changed now that you’re sailing superstars!! I’m also intrigued by the NASA references and I’ll have to look that up too!

You have picked up the vocab and idiom remarkably fast. We really did start this just to stay in touch with family and friends – seems the family has grown and grown and poor Stephen, who volunteered to run the website for us has copped a huge bucketful – Onya Steve, please can I have a roar of applause for the lad from all y’all? – and I don’t know about style changing – I think it has evolved into this mangled shorthand, but you are the better judge of all that. To pick up your ‘celestial bodies’ theme, tonight is one of those gigazillion starry nights – the Southern Cross is out there at last, Venus is magnificent with its huge reflected trail, Mars is a red beacon and the Milky Way is just as I described it once before, like a dolphin’s phosphorescent trail across the universe. I think Douglas Adams said it better, though.

And on themes, Baldy (Simon? I hope not Helene) you might be interested to delve way back into the logs – I think before New Zealand to where I asked the then very small group of punters why the sun seemed to set to the south of us. I got several

interesting replies, including one from a friend, also a B747 driver, but with Qantas, who took one from – I think – Buenos Aires or Rio across the Antarctic to Auckland. Not your normal Qantas route – I expect he just got lost, but his observations about the

sun were fascinating. Up there over the Canadian wastes must be similar – I’ve done Seattle – London by BA but it’s not the same when you can’t see out of the front.

Bring on the goat – this is getting to be too long.

1-23. Next landfall Tasmania

Oct 05, 2005 - 0415hrs UTC

By Alex on October 5, 2005, at 0415 UTC

Topic(s): Flea and the Elephant

0415hrs 05 Oct 2005 UTC 28’42”S 021’52”W Ref 416

Jeremy, Falmouth, UK:

Have been enjoying (is that the right word?) your comments of the South Atlantic,it has refreshed my memory of how nasty it can be. My escape was to get as far into my sleeping bag as possible and with earphones clamped on immerse myself in Mozart. I know the early piano concertos quite well now. As a thought might you take a roller jib if you were to do it again?

Jeremy – a roller jib would have been really nice – I just couldn’t afford one, nor justify it. Fitting one would have required at least one new sail plus putting a luff tape on all the others or taking the furler and its foil off for the race. As for passing the time with Mozart, I seem to be completely incapable of listening to music or, often, even sleeping when the boat is talking to me. My mind will not allow anything to come in over the top, so I tend to get weary and stress with the boat when the weather deteriorates. It’s an incapacity that has saved our bacon bigtime on a couple of occasions, but the time goes very slowly when it gets nasty outside.

Bill W.:

My favourite bit of the log thus far has to do with the Falklands (Log 9) because so much seemed happen at once. Landfall (crashlanding?), Leroy and NASA and a marathon to boot! I can relate to that – it never rains but it pours…

You’ve used the marathon metaphor a lot in the logs and a number of your reflections ponder how the ISSInternational Space Station crews, and Leroy in particular, see the world from an orbital frame of reference, whilst you do the same from sea level. Do you think isolation focusses your appreciation and understanding?

Better keep this short: Your current log says weather not real terrific – I’ll try a tribal Consultation tonight in an effort to despatch fair seas and winds.

Bill W, your Tribal Consultation seems to have worked – fair seas are here, at least for the time being. And thanks for your favourite bit of log. If we get enough of them, we might do a separate section of the log for them. You asked about whether isolation sharpens the focus – I really don’t know. I have almost forgotten my own home address, for instance, and as for PIN numbers, I hope I’ve got them all written down somewhere. On the other hand, looking at the night sky at this level of isolation tends to fix one in the universe as an infinitesimally small, insignificant,impermanent and instantly transient flea upon the heffalumpian rump. And sharing it with Leroy was an experience that both awed and inspired. I suppose that having to face the consequences of ones decisions and planning is also somewhat confronting and perhaps requires a reassessment of ones self confidence. The interest that this log has generated is also confronting. Why me and why is this twaddle important to so many people? Answer, I think, is that it is immediate and available but not really important – the trick is not to believe in or get swamped by ones own brand of hype! And, I guess, to keep churning it out in the hope that it will continue to be interesting. That’s the hard bit. The Man Who Ruled the Universe had nothing to say and said it with no particular panache and self doubt is my natural preference too.

I’ve been dredging my slushpot of a brain for the origin of the flea metaphor which I have felt the need to acknowledge. I think it came from a book called ‘A woman’s place is on top’ about a women’s team climbing Annapurna. I don’t remember the author’s name, but she was the expedition leader. The flea came from one of her team, perhaps called Alison, who died on the mountain and is probably still there. So it is a reminder of her as well. She used it to describe what they looked like up there on the immense curving slope that is one side of Annapurna and I was hooked. Its a good book too – well worth a read -and I seem to remember a documentary.

The wonderful people at sailmail (or at least their computer) will get cross with me if I keep sending these long ones, so can it, Alex.

[Ed: there was some earlier discussion on the Franklin Expedition. This link is to a paper written about it – thanks Isabella]

1-23. Next landfall Tasmania

Oct 05, 2005 - 0900hrs UTC

By Alex on October 5, 2005, at 0900 UTC

Topic(s): Henry Knight

0900hrs 05 Oct 2005 UTC 28’54”S 021’30”W Ref 417

DB: 131, 8092, GPS 133 46/64

05/1230 I’ve been hand steering the assyAsymetric spinnaker for the last 3 hours or so – wind still backing but unsettled and fluky around 15 knots. Heading for our waypoint at 3730 S 2000 E south of Cape Town, the gateway to the Indian Ocean, about 2 weeks away at this speed. And roughly half way. The schedule has slipped – half way in days is Oct 14 so we will be several days late at Cape Town.

Until today, I have seen nothing floating in the water – today there’s been a stream of flotsam, starting with a 20 ltr oil drum followed by indeterminate bits and pieces – perhaps a ship dumping garbage or the result of a storm further south.

Henry’s little boat should be getting close to him by now if it managed to stay afloat. We were more or less upwind of him when we sent it off yesterday.

And we have a big black Petrel for occasional company. It zig zags along our wake, mostly in a graceful glide along the troughs but flapping itself around the zigs and zags and then going off into wide circles around us, mostly out of sight. Nice to have it there. Need some sleep. This wont go until this evening so might add to it later.

05/1530 Pete is frying garlic – MMMMM!- the assyAsymetric spinnaker is up and the wind has stabilised, so the autohelm is in charge. We are making water and I’ve learned that there is almost a certain chance of a USB crash if I try to transmit with the desalinator running (HF getting into the circuits somewhere – can hear it on the radio) and the autohelm will trip as well so no chance of this going out for a few hours.

05/1800 The wind has dropped almost out. Very long, flat rolling swell from the east, perhaps 3 metres, 300 metre wavelength. I think that perhaps we should have headed further south – got the compromise a bit wrong and we’ll have to motor down there.

1-23. Next landfall Tasmania

Oct 05, 2005 - 2100hrs │Two Old Farts and a Spaceman...

By Alex on October 5, 2005, at 2100 UTC

Topic(s): Leroy Chiao, Space station (ISS)

2100hrs 05 Oct 2005 UTC 29’34”S 020’40”W Ref 418

Two Old Farts and a Spaceman…

The Berrimilla shirt signed by Dr Leroy Chiao, the Commander of the NASA ISSInternational Space Station 10 Mission, and Pete and me will be auctioned on Lord Howe Island after the Lord Howe Race at the end of this month. The proceeds will be treated as a tax deductible donation to Canteen, an Australian organisation that looks after teenagers who have cancer. Berrimilla crews and the Lord Howe Race organisers have traditionally supported CanTeen. Here is the story of the shirt, for those who might have just found the website:

This shirt commemorates an unusual meeting of people, ideas and technology. Peter Crozier and I set off around the world from Hobart via Cape Horn in January 2005 after finishing the 2004 Sydney – Hobart race in Berrimilla. The plan was to sail to England, do the Fastnet race and sail back to Sydney in time to start in the 2005 Sydney – Hobart. In an idle moment about half way across the Southern Ocean, I speculated that we were probably the most isolated humans on the planet and that the crew of the International Space Station were our nearest neighbours for a few minutes each day as they passed somewhere overhead at about 350 km.

Ably assisted by my ground control crew, emails were sent and one thing led to another – NASA contacted the Commander of the ISSInternational Space Station 10 Mission, Dr Leroy Chiao, PhD, one of NASA’s most experienced astronauts, who had been flying in the ISSInternational Space Station with his Russian colleague, Cosmonaut Salizhan Sharapov, since October 2004. Dr Chiao said he would like to speak to us and our first conversation was by telephone from Port Stanley in the Falklands. We agreed that it would be fun to try to spot each other as Berrimilla sailed on up the Atlantic, communicating via the ISSInternational Space Station IP phone and our satellite phone. We had a number of conversations and tries at signalling the ISSInternational Space Station with white parachute rocket flares and a big signalling lamp but, sadly, we were unable to crack exactly the right set of circumstances so Leroy never saw us. We saw the ISSInternational Space Station twice, first north east of Montevideo and again further north. The ISSInternational Space Station 10 crew landed in Kazakhstan on April 25 and we reached Falmouth on June 3rd.

During our conversations, we had agreed to try to meet. Leroy and his wife Karen were in Scotland in June talking to schoolkids and on June 18th, they flew down to Newquay and we collected them in our tiny and decrepit French car and had a splendid day checking out the local Cornish brewers in Falmouth. The most surprising twist and a real pleasure was that Leroy had also spoken to the author, John le Carre, from the ISSInternational Space Station and the next day us two old geezers drove NASA’s favourite Astronaut and his wife to lunch at the le Carre’s house in the ancient banger. An extraordinary meeting.

The logo on the shirt was designed in England by my sister IsabellaAlex's sister and mass produced in Australia by Team Fenwick. It shows the intersection of Berrimilla’s track up the Atlantic with an ISSInternational Space Station orbit at the point where we first saw it off Montevideo as we sailed into a huge storm. The shirt is signed by Leroy Chiao, Peter Crozier and myself and it was signed at the le Carre’s house on June 19th 2005.

End of story.

Quote from Allan Fenwick:

On another note the Shirt is being framed as we speak with a short version of your note and I think a photo of the two old farts and a spaceman. With all your new fans in the UK. they may like to bid for the shirt…

If anyone out there would like to bid for the shirt, please send an email to Allan Fenwick – alfen@aapt.net.au – and he will make sure it reaches the auction.

A splinter of new moon has just dropped from behind a cloud and is setting almost directly below Venus – two melded reflected trails on the water, both about the same brightness. Awesome…

1-23. Next landfall Tasmania

Oct 06, 2005 - 0915hrs UTC

By Alex on October 6, 2005, at 0915 UTC

Topic(s): Flea and the Elephant

0915hrs 06 Oct 2005 UTC 30’09”S 019’48”W Ref 419

DB: 116, 7970 gps 118 47/63 and just holding the breeze.

Now 06/1215 and I’ve been out there hand steering the assyAsymetric spinnaker for 3 hours – gorgeous sailing, averaging about 5.5 kts, sunshine, water 18 degrees. We’re down out of the Trades and back in the swirls where the two airmasses, warm in the north, cooler to the south, skirmish for dominance and send their successions of local changes rushing past us. We are trying to stay with a band of breeze that I think is maintained by two little highs, one in the north and one to the south west and we’re trying to get as far east and south as possible before the high to the SW develops, so that we can use the front of it to continue to move us, on the other tack, towards the barn door at Cape Town.

I’ve been developing this update as I sat up there daydreaming. First, another mind picture. Most of you will remember the Sydney Olympic logo – a brilliant conceptual design based, I think, on the swirling patterns created by the female gymnasts during their ribbon routines on the mat. The logo used a rainbow swirl that traced the outline of the Sydney Opera House and it is still around everywhere. I saw that pattern in the sky this morning – imagine two sets of radiating spokes, like two gigantic bicycle wheels suspended just over the horizon so that they overlap by more that their radius. Airbrush out the rims – we don’t need them. The top layer is the radiating pattern in the gossamer wispy dusting of ice crystals right out at the edge of the atmosphere and the lower layer, at an angle to the upper, is the pattern in the lower, thicker layer of striated cloud, probably again ice, but 10,000 feet at least lower. The two patterns interacted and for a blissful moment, there was that logo, right across the sky, but in grey and blue. Wooohooo! Now there’s fluffy cumulus blotting out most of the sky.

Secondly, hand steering – I’m a sailing dinosaur with no right to pontificate or prescribe, so take this at face value. I’ve never driven one of the big, modern, exotic planing hulls that today’s kids grow up with, but I did cut my teeth in planing dinghies. Berrimilla has a heavy, slow, displacement hull that only planes when the boat is tumbling down a wave front out of control – sort of, eh, Gordo?, and the rules may be quite different although the principle doesn’t change. Moving the rudder causes drag and costs speed in both types of hull. I’ve watched lots of people steering lots of different boats – some saw the helm from side to side and keep the sails filled and the boat on course, others seem to have that uncanny knack of anticipation and of ‘influencing’ the helm so that the sails stay filled and the boat maintains course with minimal movement of the rudder. I would be prepared to bet that the average speeds maintained by the ‘influencers’ are better than the lumberjacks. Anyway, that’s what I was playing at up there for three hours – anticipation and just thinking the boat through the water. It’s great fun and good practice. Obviously, different sets of conditions require modifications to the technique, but they don’t shift the principle.

Thirdly, Hilary checked out the flea for me. Seems I got the context right but not the detail. The book was ‘Annapurna, a woman’s place‘ by Arlene Blum and the author of the metaphor was Alison Chadwick, who died with Vera Watson out on the mountain. She spoke the words on the documentary, which we must have seen on TV because I can now remember the image of her face as she spoke, with the huge slope of the mountain in the background. I remember it particularly because, as a marathon runner, I try to fit distances into known spaces, if that makes sense – for instance, a kilometre is Farm Cove or Hickson Rd, 6k is the Corporate Cup course, 14k is the City to Surf and so on. It helps me to grind out the distance in increments when I’m running. I thought about that huge curve of Annapurna, perhaps 2 miles of it, and elevated to about 45 degrees and I fitted it mentally across Sydney Harbour from the Opera House to beyond Bradleys Head almost to Sow and Pigs, and I could see instantly what they had to achieve and why they looked like fleas on the elephant’s backside. Anyway, hats off to Alison and Vera and thanks for an enduring image. May they rest in peace up there.

1-23. Next landfall Tasmania

Oct 07, 2005 - 0900hrs UTC

By Alex on October 7, 2005, at 0900 UTC

0900hrs 07 Oct 2005 UTC 31’16”S 017’34”W Ref 420

DB: 135, 7843 gps 138 48/62. A hard day’s work, mostly hand steered, with a difficult sail change during the night. We’re back in 30+ kts from the north and look like keeping it for another day. Hardly dare hope at this stage, but it’s just possible we may have snuck across far enough to make use of the front of the high when it arrives around Sunday. It’s a bit wild and woolly but we are pointing at the barn door at Cape Town for the time being.

For those who can read between the lines, it will be apparent that we are pushing the boat and ourselves as fast and as far as the limit of our collective stamina will allow. If we miss that start line on Boxing Day, it won’t be because we have shirked on the job. Last night’s sail change was from the #1 to the #4 plus two reefs in the main. Really hard work, in driving ran. But we were lucky – the real wind hit us mid-change so we got the numbers right – we were fumbling around for the #2 when the first gust hit us. Would have been most frustrating to have just got it up and peeled off the party gearFull wet weather gear…

From Jerry H., in UK:

Having just seen your remarkable article in Yachting WorldMagazine published in the UK, there can only be ONE Al Whitworth who would do such an amazing voyage ! Well done the both of you and somewhat disappointed not to have known you were in Blighty and to have missed you on your recent ( August Fastnet) visit. Good luck with the rest of your trip and hope to have some sort of correspondence when you get back.

I sailed my J130 via a few regattas in the Med to the West Indies in 1996 with Kevin Crumplin in his 43 foot Oyster (home-built by him) but en-route to Antigua from St Lucia was dismasted and the mast came back through the hull five minutes later and we were all four of us in the two liferafts ! Fortunately picked up a couple of hours later. The boat is still down in 750 fathoms in the Dominican Channel. Now, rather sadly, I am sitting in the middle of Oxfordshire with no boat, retired, somewhat pissed of with life and envious of your latest adventure !

Good on yer! Remember the 1961 Fastnet with Horace Law sitting on the after deck peeling potatoes while the sky raced up behind us all black and menacing and the spinnaker still flying.What a first storm that was, I thought the night would never end, but that was just the beginning.

Jerry H! Well scupper me dingbats! I was wondering who might emerge after those articles. Is there anyone else out there who sailed in the 1961 Fastnet apart from PeterB? I was on Leopard with John Stocker, Bill Anderson and sadly, my degenerate memory has lost the others. We pulled out after the storm, (I too thought that night would never end) from the wrong side of the Scillies, and left the boat at Helford so that John, who was the Commander at Dartmouth, could get back to work. That unfinished race was one of the reasons for this little jolly. Jerry. I’ll write to you separately but good to hear from you. We haven’t seen the YWMagazine published in the UK article, although we did get a sneak preview of the one in Yachting MonthlyMagazine published in the UK and the unedited originals of both are, as far as I know, on the website [ed: sorry, no they are not. We only have PDF versions and those are 10mb in size, so just not feasible to put them up!] .

Chris P.:

Still following your exploits daily – after checking the ‘Age’ on line and before (well before) ‘The Mercury’. My favourite part of the log undoubtedly has to be Pete’s paean to Brolgas (14th March). It was a passage truly spoken from the heart – and with good reason.

Had ‘Poitrel’ on the slip all last week getting far too much marine life off her. There were a few good lunches of oysters and mussels hanging off her hull, assuming your digestive system could handle the heavy metals leached from the anti-foul. Am now trying to remedy a frustrating engine/transmission problem that has so far defied diagnosis. Bit of a problem taking it out to test when there is a strong possibility of the donk dying in the middle of hundred or so moored boats. But I’m sure we’ll get there. Am also making a change to mainsheet arrangement. I have a large spray hood, and the mainsheet is forward of it. Any adjustment involves clambering around the outside of the hood. Not good. So I am getting the sheet led forward to the gooseneck and back along the cabin top to a hole in the hood so I can adjust it from the cockpit. Also hope to be able to achieve the same with the traveler.

You have mentioned Hobart a few times in recent logs. Are you planning to stop here at all, or just pass by on the way to Sydney? Hope it may be the former. If you need any errands run here for your arrival, let me know.

Chris P. thanks for favourite bit – one for the Mad BoggersBrolga Owners! And good luck with the mods to Poitrel. The plan for us is time dependent. We want to finish a proper five Cape circumnavigation if possible, which means rounding SE Cape and going up to the Iron Pot to finish the job. If we then have time, we will clear customs and stay for a couple or so days. However, if we are short of time, we’ll go via Bass Strait and complete the circ. at Gabo and sail direct to Sydney to make the start. But all that is still two months away. Seems an age from out here, believe me!

If anyone would like a photo of Berri and the Old Farts in the Solent after the start of the Fastnet, by the world renowned photographers Beken & Sons of Cowes, Jeanne will have the sample sheet in due course and we might put it on the website so that anyone who wants one can order direct. We haven’t seen it, but the photos will show us with the assyAsymetric spinnaker up and quite a few boats behind us in the later starts. If you are in the UK, Beken will have it filed under Berrimilla, sail no 371. I don’t know whether they use a website for proofs and orders [ed: website link above, however I couldn’t find any Berri shots online].

1-23. Next landfall Tasmania

Oct 07, 2005 – 1730hrs UTC

By Alex on October 7, 2005, at 1730 UTC

1730hrs 07 Oct 2005 UTC 31’32”S 016’43”W Ref 421

Abeam Port Macquarie and Lord Howe Island. I think, on my earlier guess that the round trip would be around 31k miles, we are three quarters of the way around. A Celebratory Consultation is occurring – this note is being pecked out one fingered as the other hand clutches G&TGin and Tonic and tries to keep the rest of the body in equilibrium as the world gyrates around itself. But wooohooo in lower case – progress of a sort. We have 1850 miles to go to the barn door and then about 6000 to Tasmania.

Pete has been reading out some of his journal entries from some of the hairier times on the way out. Great stuff! Wait till you read the bit about the Montevideo storm when we lost the liferaft. I think that The Book that everyone is banging on about may become an edited version of these logs interspersed with Pete’s journal and some of your emails. Possibly even in three columns. Seems to me that would work and would be radically different from the usual cruise narrative. We could add photos, plus a cd of movies etc and the GPS log of the track, which would show every sailchange as a blip and some of the hairy stuff in all its snaky detail. Could even print the track as column 4? Would you buy it? Would you give it to your kids to read? Better still, would you set it as an HSC text?? I think the difficulty for us is to decide what we want it to be and who we want it to speak to. We could, for instance, easily extract the technical stuff for the sailors but what’s then the point? I think the whole thing together has an integrity of its own.

Brian and Jen – racking the congealed remains of the brain to remember what bits you might have – some bent stanchions, perhaps? The congealed remains boggle.

now 07/2130 and another brilliant night. We still have last night’s rig – #4 and 2 reefs but but the 4 is now poled out, the moon and Venus glorious on our starboard quarter and the Cross on our starboard beam. Both where they ought to be, at last – we are pointing almost for home. Yeeehaaa. Just for variety – we’ve had a little wooohooo already. And we are starting to tick off the longitudes faster than the latitudes – another good sign. This getting down the Atlantic bit is like qualifying to run the Boston marathon – huge amount of work around the traps, then once qualified, the real work starts. But heartbreak hill is a doddle compared to this one.

1-23. Next landfall Tasmania

Oct 07, 2005 - 2355hrs UTC

By Alex on October 7, 2005, at 2355 UTC

Topic(s): Knots

2355hrs 07 Oct 2005 UTC 31’51”S 016’16”W Ref 422

On stuff-ups and rolling hitches.

If you are the sort of sailor who never makes mistakes, checks everything twice, always hooks on the kiteSailors’ slang for a spinnaker the right way round – a golden haired favourite of every skipper – read no further. If, like me, you get things wrong bigtime every now and again, there may be something in this for you. Stuff-ups usually start with simple mistakes that compound to the point, sometimes, when they can become dangerous.

I have just been there. We were poled out on the port tack. It’s a black night now with cloud covering the moon. An hour ago, I pulled in a new grib file and decided that we need to keep our options open and head further south. Pete snoring happily, as he mostly is when I’m writing to you. I assessed the situation and decide that I could just take the pole off and gybe the main and we’d sail in the right direction. I was wrong and, having got the pole off, done the gybe and discovered how wrong I was, I had a bit of a handful to sort out. Basically, we needed the pole set up on the other side and I had no easy way of doing it by that time. I set up the boat to sail off the wind on the starboard tack with the preventer on and went forward to rig the pole on the other side. No problem so far. Think – check sheets etc – so rerun the starboard jib sheet through the outer block and hoist the pole. Set the boat up downwind and gybe the jib. It came across ok but the jockey pole had been stowed over the top of the downhaul. Not a showstopper but a nuisance needing to be fixed. Set up the new sheet and grind it on and discover that I have made basic error in rerunning the sheet, so that it is through two cars and around the lifelines. Sheet by this time like a metal bar pulling the boat along at six knots in heavy rolling sea and bending the lifelines. Way beyond any simple fix by hand. What to do – undoing the gybe seemed the obvious fix, but another 20 minutes work redoing all that I’d just undone.

Enter the rolling hitch – a wonderful knot that most sailors never use and can’t tie. It is a very simple three turn knot that you tie with a second line around a rope under tension, (or a pole or a bar), and the second line locks onto the first when you tighten it and can then can be used to substitute for the first from the point of attachment.

So there I was – jib sheet under tension and I had to get the tension off the end of it so that I could sort the mess and keep the sail working. I tied a rolling hitch around the sheet forward of my little bit of spaghetti using a short length of 6mm spectra and led the spectra back to a halyard winch and tightened it. It took up the strain and started to pull the boat along and I was able to unravel the now free tail of the sheet, put it back through the correct block and grind it onto its own winch before releasing the spectra strop. Cosy, but you gotta know how to tie a rolling hitch. In the dark. First time. Go practise, if you are planning to come this way – it could get you out of serious trouble. The standard stuff up when it comes in useful is when you get a jammed riding turn around a winch. Teach it to your kids.

1-23. Next landfall Tasmania

Oct 08, 2005 - 0900hrs UTC

By Alex on October 8, 2005, at 0900 UTC

Topic(s): Barnacles, Birds, Knots, Meals, Petrels

0900hrs 08 Oct 2005 UTC 32’36”S 015’53”W Ref 423

DB: 114, 7739 gps 132 (all over the ocean yesterday!) 49/61

A PS to my last about rolling hitches. If you haven’t got a convenient halyard winch and your two lee winches are loaded and tensioned, do not despair. Leave the knife in its sheath and take the secondary line around behind the winch that doesn’t need unjamming and up to one of the weather winches. The loaded leeward winch acts as a temporary turning block and it works fine. Alternatively, if you have one, a snatch block off an aft mooring cleat works well. And a rolling hitch works best if the secondary line (the one you make the hitch with) is thinner than the primary, so that it bites into the primary and holds better.

Spowie, g’day. Was wondering if you were still out there following us. It was your lesson on rolling hitches – remember? – that gave me the clue and I’ve never forgotten and I’ve used one several times since instead of a knife.

One for Marcus – Berrimilla coffee – make a thick paste in a mug with drinking chocolate or cocoa (my preference), caster sugar and milk, vigorously stirred so that it is a bit aerated and pour a strong black coffee into it. Stir gently. Not for every day but noice for a sticky treat – good English boarding school recipe, just like fried bread and marmalade.

It’s gone all soft, damp and drizzly out there – typical convergence zone conditions. My breath now has condensation in it so we’re getting there! I think we are just hanging into the dying edge of the breeze in front of the high. If we can hold on to it – unlikely – we’ll keep going south towards the steady westerlies at the top of the roaring forties. We need to get down below 35S. Might see Tristan da Cunha on the way, although I hope we manage to stay out of sight to the north east.

Our black Petrel is still with us and today it has been joined by three others and a little black and white Storm Petrel – after the albatross, I think my favourite bird. I wonder if they are the same group that were with us a week or so ago. If so, how do they do it? I’m sure we haven’t seen them for days and here they are again. They are flying an extending quad helix pattern along our wake – always clockwise, and sometimes almost around the front of the boat but they always seem to turn away just before going around the bow. The little Storm Petrel does its own thing – flolloping along, sometimes gliding, twisting and turning and seeming sometimes to float motionless inches above the water.

08/1615

Making bread – warm sunshine again, slimline breeze but it’s still there. Bread almost made and the cloud and rain squalls are moving in again. Have just cut swathes of barnaclesExplanation here (Wikipedia) away from the starboard quarter, which has been underwater almost all the way from Falmouth.

1-28. How Low To Go? Towards 45°S

Nov 08, 2005 – 1200hrs UTC

By Alex on October 8, 2005, at 1200 UTC

1200hrs 08 Nov 2005 UTC 39’26”S 046’51”E Ref 534

to #5 and 3rd reef, tack to 210M – hoping further backing to bring up to GC track.

1-23. Next landfall Tasmania

Oct 09, 2005 – 1045hrs UTC

By Alex on October 9, 2005, at 1045 UTC

1045hrs 09 Oct 2005 UTC 34’08”S 014’17”W Ref 424

DB: 114, 7625 GPS 122, 50/60 and south of Sydney. Very soon to be passing Wollongong and any Berri crewmember will know that that is a signal for riotous behaviour. And after that we will almost immediately be south of Africa and of the vast majority of all y’all. There are a few of you in Melbourne, some in Tasmania and at the bottom end of South America and the Falklands and a sprinkling in Dunedin. But that’s it. Big week. I will stick my neck out and guess that we may just have managed to keep our fingernails hooked into the weather pattern that will get us down into the westerlies – tomorrow will tell. If we’ve cracked it, it will have been quite an achievement. We have been pushing ourselves and Berri all the way almost from Trinidad to hold on to it and by watching the grib and a bit of intuition, we just might be there.

BIG transition is happening. Overnight, the ocean has turned from blue to grey. The seabirds have been joined by some much bigger southern ocean type birds – long thin wings, two metre span at least, lots of anhedral and they glide – and do they glide! The swells are now approaching the small warehouse variety – not yet steep and breaking but half mast height from trough to crest and wavelength about 100 metres. Some nasty potential there. The temperature has dropped – water now 13 degrees and it feels cold – and there is the clammy grip of cold damp air on exposed skin. We’ve been digging out thermals and gloves and sleeping bags. And the mungies don’t want to germinate – too cold or them perhaps. I will start the next lot with warm water.

At the moment it looks as if we will pass about 100 miles north of Tristan da Cunha. Who was T d C? An opportunity wasted perhaps, but then so was the Beagle Channel, the Antarctic Peninsula, Madeira and all the rest. Next time! And then there will be the Crozets and the Kerguelen Islands in mid Indian Ocean but I hope we will be well north of them.

Will try to send this before propagation window closes.

1-28. How Low To Go? Towards 45°S

Nov 09, 2005 - 1100hrs UTC

By Alex on October 9, 2005, at 1100 UTC

1100hrs 09 Nov 2005 UTC 40’56”S 048’29”E Ref 538

Steve, interesting re amm – ta, – also re cycCruising Yacht Club of Australia – keep us posted. just transferred to your wet wxShort for ‘weather’ gear. noice – mine now v. tacky. further 2 phone call – approx position of following system, h or l, plus likely strength and direstion system moving wd be appreciated – assume your strenght’s are averages so 40=60 etc.

small celebration – just managed to transmit on 18 megs. might mean troubles decreasing. there will be a con. – later – jst a fluke – still v difficult to get sailmail in or out paul has given us some more p’s to add to our 4 at the end – proper prior planning prevents piss poor performance promoting persevering patiently, prudently and persistently. you can see how stir crazy i get sometimes.

From Paul

Do you get any extra speed from your new main, a few megapixels perhaps?

I’ve been thinking about your desalinator, I’ve never used one, or even seen one! Could you point me in the direction of some information? In the last few exchanges I’ve read from you re economies of power consumption it hasn’t had a mention, don’t you need to use it? It would seem to be a pretty essential piece of kit to me. I’m assuming it purifies salt water which must use a lot of energy, would it be more efficient/use less if it was purifying collected rainwater? Can it be hand powered?

I can imagine your delight at finding extra tonic under the new main! If supplies get really desperate do you have the means to make some homebrew? I wonder if you’ve read Desperate Voyage, about a guy at the end of WW2 who tries to sail singlehanded from the US to Australia with no previous experience. He ends up eating engine grease, and his shoes (what would the boot ferals think of that?). Although you have plenty of ordinary supplies to get you home, how far would you be prepared to go to maintain regular consultations?

On knowledge and wisdom… I was a teacher in the UK & Cyprus for 12 yrs, and then spent another 12 yrs working for a large commercial diving company in the North Sea. Some of the smartest, quick thinking guys I ever met were not professionals the staffroom, they were “”professionals”” in an unusual industry with no formal qualifications! In some places they might have been refered to as “”wide boys”” but they were successful because they were ahead of the game 24 hours a day. The 7P’s ruled their world.Proper Prior Planning Prevents Piss-Poor Performance! (Now I’m back teaching again which proves I never learned anything!)

paul – watermaker – swiss company called katadyn – they have a website. uses reverse osmosis and ours draws about 5.5 amps while producing 4.5 ltrs/hour. can be hand powered.

From Clive R.

Hi my name is Clive and I live in Lytham St.Annes.U.k. I’M not much of a sailor but I have read all your logs with great interest .I follow your progress every day and I am amazed that you are able to reply to all our questions with interest and full of information .I wish all the luck in the world in your venture and I only wish I had the luck and the balls (sorry) to do the same . Keep the gin flowing,not too much tonic and a very safe journey to you both .Cheeeers.

g’day clive – thanks for your note.

john m. st 4000 tiller autopilot – won’t cope with southern ocean warehousesWaves the size of warehouses but ok everything else – are you morning gold?

From Graeme

Have been reading your logs and can say that it is nice to be here in Oz on East coast with just a bit of rain. Good to see that you have headed north a bit. Hope you are getting the weather you want rather than just what is thrown at you. Have been talking to Gerry F and will do one of his Radio courses over the weekend.

I see that your entry is in for Hob. Hope yoiu have the crew arranged, if not and you can use a useless old guy give me a call. Dont know if there is anything that you need but if i can assist give me a call.

graeme – you too – wow. thanks for offer of services – i think we’re ok as long as we can get there in time.

we are trying to head back down the gc – bashing directly into short steep corkscrewing sea – very violent motion, this typing not easy – green water past kitchen window, would be nice to get a break sometime and actually get moving. the nailbiting bit of all this is not easy to sustain.

condensation very bad – keeping computer dry is tricky – sitting with head under plastic bag, braced, poking keybd 1 handed.

chris – perhaps wisdom the state or quality of having seen it (or something like it) all before and being able to act on it. simply, the capacity to act – or, specifically, not act – from experience.

1-23. Next landfall Tasmania

Oct 09, 2005 – 1750hrs UTC

By Alex on October 9, 2005, at 1750 UTC

Topic(s): Brolga Owners Group

1750hrs 09 Oct 2005 UTC 34’33”S 013’36”W Ref 425

Time for a stocktake. Two old farts at the bottom end of the South Atlantic in their battered old boat with 60 days yet to go or, if my memory and mental arithmetic can cope, with 60 days out of a likely 236 odd sailing days and the end far from in sight and how are we doing? This is starting to look like a list and I doubt you want lists with the coffee and croissants – we’re not going to run out of food or water – we make about 4 ltrs/day – and we seem to be healthy, altho I’m wasting away – muscles like larded string – and given the capacity of my decrepit metabolism to regenerate them, it’s going to be as interesting as watching stalactites grow when I get home and start running again. Tedious.

If we eventually finish the job, it will have been an unusually long circumnavigation because of the leg from St Paul Rocks to the Fastnet and back to the equator – say an extra 7000 miles. Had we turned for home at St Paul, we would have been there by now.

So here we are, abeam Wollongong and as riotous as our medicine chest would allow, with Cape Agulhas only 24 miles to the south but still nearly 1700 miles away. I have always believed that the Cape of Good Hope was the southern tip of Africa. It isn’t – have a look if you thought so too. And this is where the real work starts – a quarter of the journey to go and the need to gather the resources and dole them out to cover the rest of the enterprise. I’m certainly feeling the strain – it’s been a long bash and I can’t wait, at one level, for it to be over. At another, it will be a bit devastating. This is 30k in a marathon, which isn’t really even close to half way in effort and stain.

Wendy P, we opened the tin of chocolates today – wow! And thanks. We got the timing right – there’s one each per day to Tasmania. And your supply of The DoctorGuinness is sustaining us too.

To the Starlings and all the BoggersBrolga Owners – We should have a BoggersBrolga Owners Bash in the new year, perhaps at my house in Sydney, and you can bring along copies of all the records you have of your boats and we will see whether we can get a book together. Jenny, perhaps you could circulate the idea? I don’t have the list any more, or most of the addresses.

And, on the subject of Books – if Pete and I ever get around to the book of this enterprise, it won’t be the same without some quotations from your emails. It might save us a lot of hassle if those of you who have written to us would be kind enough to write to Stephen at berri@berrimilla.com saying whether you would be happy to allow us to use your emails and Gust book entries (or preventing us from doing so)in a book, together with any instructions about acknowledging your copyright or maintaining your anonymity. We will chase anyone who we want to quote if we don’t hear from you.

1-23. Next landfall Tasmania

Oct 09, 2005 - 2300hrs UTC

By Alex on October 9, 2005, at 2300 UTC

Topic(s): Albatrosses, Birds

2300hrs 09 Oct 2005 UTC 34’47”S 013’06”W Ref 426

Birds. Lots of them – mostly black with white beaks and a white ring around their eyes and faces. There were a lot of them around the Falklands and perhaps Tristan da Cunha has them too. But best of all, two albatrosses – medium sized, about 3 metre span and different varieties. These guys fly – fast – with their bodies almost brushing the surface – they seem to be locked there, about 3-4 cm above, with their wings extending slightly downwards towards the water with a bit of curve so that they reach the surface about two thirds of the way towards the tips and then flatten out like a big squashed omega so that they just don’t touch. Breathtaking to watch them especially when they blast in towards the boat and then twitch a section of leading edge and bank upwards and away with almost no visible movement. All you see as they come in is a tiny circle of face exactly like a smiley and a razor thin wing line extending away from it and curving down to the water. I think the clockwise pattern from yesterday is because they fly their circuits into wind at the boat end – will check on the other tack. And they don’t bother to go round the bows because real fishing boats don’t throw stuff off the front.

We are abeam Cape Agulhas, so about to go south of Africa. Dark night, cloudy, but the moon has just broken into a gap, amidst towering black and white silhouetted clouds. Venus was there fro a few minutes but now covered. Wind variable around 20 kts from the WSW, big swells. We are heading as far south as we can get before the 13th, when the grib predicts the next front, also from the SW but with 25+ knots, meaning 40 – 50 if our experience means anything. We’ll just ride it out – it wont be around for long – and hope that what is behind it still allows us to head east.

The satphone will be on from here. If anyone does want to speak to us, we will only answer the third ring – so call, let it ring, hang up, call, hang up and call again and we will answer as long as we are not on deck doing a sail change. Don’t leave messages – we will not get them and it costs both of us money.

As I hit that last full stop, the wind came in at 35+kts and I had to leap out and ease everything and run the boat downwind at 8 to 9 knots with the stern wave rolling up over the quarter and phosphorescence firing off everywhere. Spectacular. And poor Pete had to get up from his nice warm bunk and we did a wet and bouncy change from the 2 to the 4 and a second reef. Ans, as usual, we’re back to 20 knots. I’ll try to send this before I jump into bed.

1-23. Next landfall Tasmania

Oct 10,2005 – 0900hrs UTC

By Alex on October 10, 2005, at 0900 UTC

0900hrs 10 Oct 2005 UTC 35’19”S 012’18”W Ref 427

DB:130, 7495 GPS 138 51/59. The numbers are just beginning to stack. Scene two of Act 5 of the Drama has begun.

South of Africa, girt by sea, beset by natural forces, steeped in compromise and apparently bedevilled by cliche -what do we do now? Strategy for scene two of this leg requires us to get down into the top of the Roaring Forties, the permanent westerly airstream that blows around the world between about 40 and 60 South. This band of westerlies carries a series of quite to very intense low pressure systems – rotating clockwise – each with an associated front. North of it are the high pressure systems, rotating anti-clockwise, one of which we have been dodging for the last week.

Tactically from here, we must judge where lies the best latitude to ride the next front in a couple of days and at the same time put us far enough south to stay below the following high and in the top of the westerlies. We are looking for the best compromise between getting bashed by the nasties in the front and getting far enough south to keep doing the business. We need to be under the high and just in the top of the lows. Looking at the last grib, I think we will level off at about 3630 south and ride the front then reassess whether we go further down when it has passed. I think we will probably have to.

1-23. Next landfall Tasmania

Oct 10, 2005 - 1130hrs UTC

By Alex on October 10, 2005, at 1130 UTC

1130hrs 10 Oct 2005 UTC 35’30”S 012’07”W Ref 428

Glorious, once in a lifetime sailing – bright sunshine, fluffy low level Cu., flat blue sky, grey luminescent sea between the blacker patches of cloud shadow, huge SW swells with little sparkling whitecaps all over them but no big rolly ones – yet! – and 30 kts just fwd of the beam truckin’ 6’s and 7’s. Berri with #4 and 2 reefs, almost vertical, but rolling a bit off the tops of the swells. Same pack of seabirds all around. Wooohooo. We are due to get the front this arve or eve with quite a bit more wind. Present plan is to drop the main when we see the first signs behind us, pole out the 5 and the storm jib and set the trisail sheeted on hard amidships. Will be interesting – watch this space.

G’day to all the new Gusts – Ian from Chatham, best of luck and do look us up when you get to Oz.

Jerry H – tried to email you but it bounced – will have another go.

Thanks to those of you who have given us permission to use your emails for The Book. And to those who have sent in shirt bids.

Marcus:

Thanks for the recipe for the Berrimiila bacon sandwich and more recently the coffee recipe. I have an espresso machine in the restaurant and will be putting the berrimilla coffee on the menu next week. I will let you know how I get on.

It has occured to me that you guys are giving me ideas for my menu but I am the one that should be giving you ideas, being a chef of many years. It must be tough for you to think up new ideas to make life interesting, (Culinary wise,) well Pete at least. And so I thought if Pete gives me a list of your basic stores I would try to think up something for you to break the bordom, I am sure you don’t have much to think about otherwise (especially rounding the horn!) If you give me a list of your basic supplies I will do my best to add a little variety to your diet. Pete, who we don’t hear of too much, must be looking for new ways to cook things ALL the time!.

I am still reading your logs whenever I can, given working constraints and serving berrimilla sandwiches

ps could you try fishing in the quiet times I have some great recipes.
Sorry Just read yuor rations list, Just let me know me what you have left.

Marcus – thanks for thinking of us – I hope you offer your customers a Consultative Draught with their Berrimilla sandos! Perhaps you could organise them to put in a collective bid for the shirt – we will get it to you if they win it.

IsabellaAlex's sister: Portuguese nav Tristao da Cunha discovered TdC on his way to Cape of GH in 1506. It was impossible to land. The first settler to arrive on the island was Captain Jonathan Lambert – who landed in 1811. I expect lots of people have told you that.

Tristao was a bit out of his way down there! And we’re almost exactly 500 years behind him. Malcom, you were right, of course. I debated the point myself but decided that as the head muscle is the only one getting any exercise, it might be better to work down metaphorically from there, so went for ‘tites rather than ‘mites.

Is – sadly, the Cake of Good Hope is no longer available for naming. Final processing took place about a week ago and very nice it was. For your dental tape dye ties, a reef knot tied with long tails and use the tails to tie a rolling hitch at each end of the reef knot to lock it and prevent slip – usually works. Gives nice tight small knot. Fisherman’s bend needs a solid loop, as in fishook, so no go. Else a standard granny loop with double or treble sheet bend through it? Have fun kiddo!

Allan Fenwick: Your email logs are of such a high standard I have nothing to complain about, It makes my life so boring, no one to put shit on, Off to Lord Howe in 3 weeks on the big beachball, will keep you informed on bids as they come in.

Fenwick – what do you want? Why are you being so nice to us? Have you forgotten the art of invective? Or just getting sillier?

1-23. Next landfall Tasmania

Oct 10, 2005 – 1600hrs UTC

By Alex on October 10, 2005, at 1600 UTC

1600hrs 10 Oct 2005 UTC 35’46”S 011’50”W Ref 429

It started to pack in, so on the principle of reef deep, reef early, we set the storm jib and trisail and now we’re in full orange dayglo party splendour in a glowing grey green ocean with wind lines, froth, sparkling sunlight from the spray and those big warehousesWaves the size of warehouses just beginning to roll white from their tops. Storm jib and tri is such an easy rig – centre of pressure well down, tiny area of sail but fully balanced so Berri sails more or less where we point her rather than sideways to leeward. We’ve got 35 – 45 at the moment, W wind just aft of the beam to get us as far south as possible and making 5+ knots with minimal effort. Just a mini howl from the rig. We will pass within 50 miles or so of TdC so may even see it. Probably go closest at night.

1-23. Next landfall Tasmania

Oct 10,2005 - 2130hrs UTC

By Alex on October 10, 2005, at 2130 UTC

2130hrs 10 Oct 2005 UTC 36’00”S 011’16”W Ref 430

We’ve just passed Tristan da Cunha 80 miles to the SE. The wind has dropped from 40+ to 20+ and we’re just rolling around in the residual swell. I mean rolling with attitude – have you ever tried putting on a sock one handed whilst the vehicle is in motion? Hornswogglingly difficult. Still storm jib and tri – will probably leave till morning when there should be a lot less wind and we will be just ahead of the following high – I hope far enough down to get the benefit of the westerly flow off its base. We’ll see. Then the wind will back to the north and, with a bit of luck, we’ll be on the slide to the barn door south of Cape Agulhas. The barn door is about 4 degrees wide – about 240 miles – between 38 and 42 south and we must pick the spot to pass through – same principle, we must be under the high and just in the top of the lows. There may be a particularly rough bit to the SE of Africa where the Agulhas current flowing down the east coast meets the westerly flow across the bottom of the world.

Now that we can ‘see’ Tasmania, I will change the contents of the Daily Bull. I will continue to give you the previous day’s run and instead of my estimated distance to SE Cape (7495 this morning),I will give you the rhumb line distance taken from the SoB software – as I write, 7295, so my daily estimates were reasonable. As a matter of interest, the rhumb line distance to the Fastnet from here is 5248 miles but we have sailed about 6200 miles to get here, snaking down the Atlantic. All you ace predictors can get out your calculators and try and beat my estimate (made as we left Falmouth) of Dec 11th at the Iron Pot (at the mouth of the Derwent River 11 miles south of Hobart for the geographically challenged) or Gabo (SE corner of OZ mainland)if we go via Bass Strait. Half way on the Dec 11th schedule is on Friday 14th, and we will be pretty close on distance to go as well. It’s still do-able. We’d better have another prize for the closest predicted ETAEstimated Time of Arrival – perhaps Berrimilla’s round the world kettle or some other artefact? Not very exciting. Another signed shirt? Suggestions please.

Trudi or Martin, if you’re still out there – how is your single hander getting on? We haven’t been able to pick up your network or the Patagonian Cruise net (on 8164, not a ham net) based in Ushuaia so propagation is still bad. Sailmail works for us here through Africa and Chile but nowhere else.

[ed: more fame!….]

Alex & Pete,

As you passed the volcanic island of Tristao da Cunha yesterday, news of your voyage hit the headlines of the “Tristan Times“, the local online newspaper. The Island’s volcano last blew its top in the early 1960’s.

Barry Duncan.

and

Alex, Pete, Stephen, and Mal,

Link to the double page TIMES article if you haven’t seen it: Times Online [note: this link is only for subscribers]

1-23. Next landfall Tasmania

Oct 11, 2005 – 1030hrs UTC

By Alex on October 11, 2005, at 1030 UTC

Topic(s): Watches

1030hrs 11 Oct 2005 UTC 36’25”S 010’15”W Ref 431

It has been a long slow night. At these longitudes, I get two fully dark three hour watches, from 2100-midnight and 0300-0600. It is now 0500 and I’ve got another hour to go. We don’t have enough batteries for me to read with my headlight for 6 hours every night, nor anything like enough books. I can do crosswords with intermittent light and darkness for thinking. On the better nights, I can sit in the cockpit and enjoy the stars and the phosphorescence and the moon and sometimes dolphins and the clamourous boot ferals – and even commune with the Examiner if she’s around. On nights like tonight, though, the time passes very slowly. It is still blowing 20+, the warehousesWaves the size of warehouses have subsided to about half their early size but the boat is still rolling heavily and it’s cold and damp in the cockpit. We’re tooling along through the moguls at between 2 and 5 knots under storm jib and tri – we could carry more but better now to wait until daylight and the next watch change. So the day’s run will be unimpressive. I don’t think we have managed to get quite far enough south to put us under the high cell due here tomorrow/late today so we might be a bit short of wind tonight and through tomorrow. The barn door is 1500 miles ahead still, so there will be a lot of changes on the way. I think we will need to be at or below 40 S by the time we get there. The pace should start to improve once we get down to 40.

DB 114, 7225 GPS 122 52/58

Back to the 2 and a reef. Fingers crossed that we will be able to stay below the high today and pick up the northerlies behind it tomoz. New birds – I remember these from the Falklands too – black tops, with white dalmatian splodges in a line from wingtip to wingtip – spectacular!

1-23. Next landfall Tasmania

Oct 11, 2005 - 1715hrs UTC │VoA : Sophisticated System of Temperature Assessment

By Alex on October 11, 2005, at 1715 UTC

Topic(s): Birds, VoA

1715hrs 11 Oct 2005 UTC 36’40”S 009’36”W Ref 432

A dissertation on the VoA:

I have been observing an interesting indicator of our local ambient temperature. I have a tube of ointment – a Very Special Unguent for fingertip application to certain delicate sphinctorially located and unmentionable portions of the nethers. It is necessary to Confer – never Consult! – with this VSU quite frequently and I have observed that its consistency changes noticeably with temperature. In the tropics, it frolics from its tube like warm honey, but down here it takes a massive squeeze to shift it at all and it only appears with great reluctance. Perhaps, therefore, there is an opportunity for a broad thermometric table based on the changes in the VoA – not (definitely not!) the Voice of America, but the Viscosity of Anusol.

For the kids in 5/6, that’s a fancy name for special bum ointment that I hope you won’t need – ever! We do a lot of sitting out here. Perhaps I should include a VoA reading in the daily bull. (Runny, squeezy, extra squeezy, uber squeezy, go away?)

More birds – a flock of about a thousand wheeling and swirling all around us and dolphins playing underneath. The birds are pigeon sized and not unlike rather fine winged pigeons. And – wonderful to behold – a solitary albatross gliding and curving amongst them and making them all seem so busy and officious and even graceless. Malcom, it’s definitely Albatross ground effect and yes, the Russians did build a series of aircraft that used it.

And we had a recalcitrant winch – usual problem- salt in the works and gummed up pawls- but however careful I was before we left I must have swapped my double (metric/imperial) allen key kit for the single metric one and the winches of course are imperial. So I found a non standard, therefore softer allen key amongst all the backup junk, dug out the instrument files – Thanks Les, if you are reading this! – and we filed down the key and it worked. Filled the pawl case with wd40 as I’m not prepared to take the whole thing apart out here unless absolutely necessary – and it works. Wooohooo,

And we’re having an early consultation with Dr GordonGordon’s Gin to celebrate.

From Maggie, Ian & Emma Browne and all those you remember at Keycorp

We haven’t gone away, but never fail to log in every day.
Terrific achievement, terrific read.
Now that you are turning left we thought that it was time to say hello and wish you luck.
Another couple of days and we will have a watch set up on the roof of the Keycorp building to see if we can see you coming over the hill.
With all these visits to the doctorGuinness you should consider registering Berri as a medical facility and claim back the consultation fee.
Good Luck and no more scares please Pete

Hi Maggie – a bit early for the crows nest, but the right idea. I’ll come and do a lunchtime gig if you like when we get back.

From Austin C.

As a daylight coast hugging Mediterranean sailor whose personal feats go no further than sailing around the Maltese Islands in a Feeling 286 Special, I am but awestruck by the courage, stamina and confidence you portray in such a gruesome voyage. Ever since I saw your article in YMMagazine published in the UK a week or so ago I have been signing in to peep at your log on a daily basis. It has become my daily dosage of armchair sailing adventure in which I feel I am fully participating! My compliments for the wonderful website too.

Keep it up chaps and please Alex, next time you come to see your mother in Malta please let me know. I would love to join you in a consultation with the Dublin doctorGuinness at one of the Drinking Holes on the Island. And, of course, shake the hands of a formidable sailor.

Austin C – will do – maybe around Feb next year.

From Joan and Bill R., in Australia

I’ve been following faithfully and your updates are compulsory reading each time one comes in – the ANZ might start charging me for the time spent! Thought of you particularly last weekend when the Melbourne Marathon was run – weather was cool to mild and a few showers so conditions pretty good for running I think [ed: absolutely crap with 20knt headwinds!]. Course was basically the same, along the Beach road but then into St. Kilda Road and finish outside the Arts Centre. I confess that I forgot to look and see who actually won but I can be reasonably sure that it wasnt you – maybe next year?

Bill and Joan – you’re obviously golfers – my spies tell me there was a 20 kt headwind for the marathon – just like I remember most of my 13 or so of them! You’d better gear up for the coming home party.

From David Whitworth

Thought you might like to know that today divers are lifting the 10metre bow stem timber and iron anchor from the Mary Rose site 23? years after the first lift.They are then sealing the site for posterity.

Peter C thanks for permission, David, yes, I’d heard that they had found the bow section of the Mary Rose – must go and see it next time.

Barry – thanks for tristan link – tell them if you can that my mum drove a lot of them to church on Sundays when they were evacuated to Calshot in 1961. There was a Willie Repetto?

Wow! that G&TGin and Tonic had some attitude.

1-24. Closing on the Barn Door

Oct 12, 2005 - 0430hrs UTC │Follow my Wallow

By Alex on October 12, 2005, at 0430 UTC

Topic(s): Phosphorescence

0430hrs 12 Oct 2005 UTC 37’04”S 008’54”W Ref 433

Follow my wallow – for the sailors. We’ve all sat in the oily swell in the Channel or the Solent or off Sydney Heads or wherever with no wind, the kiteSailors’ slang for a spinnaker or the headsail and the main slatting and banging and tearing out their cringles and thought we were particularly unlucky. So we were, but it’s all relative. Next time it happens to you, and a ship passes, imagine that the waves are as big as the ship and about 100 to 150 metres apart, with the swell you are sitting in applied across the top. And there you are, trying to keep the boat moving with nowt on the wind indicator. Now THAT’s wallow. It is all happening right here – the wind dropped out as predicted as the high arrived and we rolled around, as above. Then a whisper – up to 8 kt, but hard to tell because of the roll – bit the bullet and rigged the pole and tried to hand steer downwind – much banging and crashing but tiny progress – a speed reading on the log – .75, 1.2….eventually cracking 4 kts in about 10 kts of ephemeral breeze and the electric autohelm is driving as I write. Still a crash or two as the main goes inside out and takes the boom with it but progress. This note will be even more disjointed than usual because I have to keep leaping up on deck to tweak the autohelm.

G’day to all the new Gusts and readers. It seems we have hit the news. We can’t get the internet or read the papers here so all we know is what Stephen is able to send us via Sailmail – he sends us your emails pasted into a single download and gives us the gust entries when he can. We get 10 minutes per day connect time over the Sailmail link, so it is all very compressed and the whole website has to be run within this constraint. Up till now, I have tried to acknowledge you all individually but this may be a bit difficult for a few days until the rush fades. Please forgive me if you don’t get a mention.

The Times (UK) – 11 Oct 2005: Two codgers and a boat: marriage made in yachtsmen’s heaven

Small concern – we seem to be using our methylated spirit rather faster that at any previous time – time for a stocktake in the morning – we may need to conserve, so no more bread or pasta, for instance. Poo! But it hasn’t happened yet. I wonder if Pete is secretly drinking the stuff – poor lad’s not blue with cold when he staggers in after a dismal night watch – perhaps it’s a metho stain.

Our ephemeral zephyr has gone and we’re back in megawallow. Gotta go.
Much tweaking later – just managing forward progress in about 5-8kts – takes a bit of concentration. Now overcast – Mars, I think, visible thro tiny gap. Real southern ocean phosphorescence again – Berri leaving smoky trail snaking through the water, turbine a bright blob as it stirs the dinos on the end if its line 40 metres behind.

Chris – love your poem, not at all fussed by the cost effective use of the singular! One sailor, like an unknown warrior, can represent us all. [ed: will seek permission to publish]

I’ve been thumpingly chastised by my sister for going public about her dental floss fetish – she’s in denial, but everyone has known for years that she sneaks out at night and fossicks in the neighbours’ dustbins for those curly knotty bits of used floss that she then obsessively ties together to re-use. We’re a strange lot. In fact, she uses rolls of the stuff to achieve spectacular effects by tie-dyeing silk and other material. I think her website is at www.isabellawhitworth.co.uk if you don’t believe me. I want her to do a spinnaker for Berri, but she hasn’t collected enough floss yet. Maybe all y’all could send her yours… Perhaps I shouldn’t joke – there’s bound to be someone out there that doesn’t do irony. If that’s what this is.

1-24. Closing on the Barn Door

Oct 12, 2005 - 0900hrs UTC

By Alex on October 12, 2005, at 0900 UTC

Topic(s): VoA

0900hrs 12 Oct 2005 UTC 37’12”S 008’34”W Ref 434

DB:99, 7108, gps 105 – much as expected. Its getting quite cold – to labour the joke just once, VOAI mega-squeezy.

From Peter D., Australia:

You will no doubt pass within a day or two’s sail from Isle Amsterdam,and Isle St Paul, in about a month’s time. Amsterdam used to have a French research station (may still have) on its shores. I understand St Paul is uninhabited. St Paul is like a semi submerged volcano, and I understand on a quiet day a boat can enter the lagoon (sorry – no more detail).

However within the last 5 or six years, 4 years ago approximately, the Royal Australian Air Force were involved in a rescue mission for some persons shipwrecked on St Paul. Perhaps not as interesting as Tristan, as no permanent inhabitants. It was surprising to me that our area of responsibility extended so far from our shores. Oh yes, I remember now – the Hercules I think it was, had to fly to St Paul, have a look, but then go to the closest refuelling point – South Africa, then come back and have a further search. I am interested in that outcome so have logged to call RAAF tomorrow – their history section and see if I can find out more – shall let you know if there is any outcome.

Malcom – found the islands at 7730E – almost exactly half way across – any chance you could do the research for us – would be nice to talk to them? Callsign and frequency and time if poss – ship and shore stn.

Pete not a closet metho freak – we found a hidden stash so we’ll survive. Much relief – shows the problems of stowage in a small boat and then remembering later.

Will send and do another later – fingers too cold for more.

1-24. Closing on the Barn Door

Oct 12, 2005 - 1615hrs UTC │Strange Sunrise Phenomena

By Alex on October 12, 2005, at 1615 UTC

Topic(s): Birds, Sunrise

1615hrs 12 Oct 2005 UTC 37’28”S 007’54”W Ref 435

The next few days will, I think, be wet and windy. There seems to be a tight low forming behind the high we are sitting under and tomorrow the wind will veer to the north west and north and increase over the next two days. Not the best bit of a southern ocean low to be in front of but it doesn’t look too fierce at the moment. We will be nicely in the top of it and we will go for the 5 and the trisail or perhaps 3 reefs at the first sign of nastiness and hoon along as fast as it will carry us generally eastwards. I hope. Just pottering twin poled in a zephyr awaiting todays Con with the good Dr GordonGordon’s Gin in 45 minutes.

Pigeon like birds all departed – now have a couple of biggish brown guys flying formation around us and a much more round winged bird, about a metre span, brownish with white strip diagonally at outer end of top of wings. This guy keeps trying to land on the masthead and getting itself in a twist – it has been trying several different versions of finals but there’s nowhere up there for it to put its feet.

From Malcom Robinson:

Great to hear that the birds are back – would be very lonely without them I reckon. It was a terrific article in the Times – almost made me want to be there – but then I saw that little Low developing just behind you on the weather map and decided that I’m still not brave enough :-/

There’s a nice ISSInternational Space Station pass coming up this Friday evening (your time). Assuming that you’re at 37S 3W it will be:
- 19:40:52 rise bearing 192
- 19:42:32 max elev of 21 degrees bearing 151
- 19:43:12 sets bearing 131
The further East you are, the higher it will be – so get a wriggle on guys!

Mal, thanks for the ISSInternational Space Station pass details – I think we might still be under the low by Friday and we wont get to see it even though we should be well to the east in line for a nice high one. Poo! Do you know when the ISSInternational Space Station 11 crew are due to land? And who is on ISSInternational Space Station 12?

From Jeff F.

I spent 38 years at sea and have crossed between SA and OZ on numerous occasions. Read about your exploits in today’s Times–as a n ex professional seafarer the considered opinion is that all yaghtsmen are to be avoided at all costs. However let me wish you all the best for the remainder of your voyage–and may the wind be always at your back.

Jeff F., thanks for your good wishes. I’m pleased to be able to report that your erstwhile colleagues seem to have the same opinion of yachties as you do – they’ve all managed to avoid us so far.

From Mark R., UK:

The Times newspaper has done you proud today with a double page spread of your amazing journey. It did, however, get me worried that my wife (who, when aged 40, took up sailing for the first time and now, four years later, has her own small dinghy) might become so addicted to water, that at some point in the next 20 years she might abandon English suburbia and try to accomplish something significantly more adventurous than a Sunday morning pursuit race on our local sailing lake. Thankfully, I have just read her your hilarious daily log regarding VoA, which has quashed all such aspirations she may have had! Every best wish for continued success in your astonishing adventure.

Mark R, please tell your wife to ignore us old farts and to follow her dreams – out here is not as bad as it seems and, VoA notwithstanding, I wouldn’t have missed it for all those tea bags. Just watching the birds and the dolphins yesterday was better than a bus trip to work.

We are approaching the Greenwich meridian for my fourth time this year, after standing astride the official Meridian marker outside Flamsteed’s house at the Royal Observatory at Greenwich and a couple of times en route to Malta and back from LHR, which don’t really count. We crossed 180 degrees at about 40 S at the Antipodes Islands east of NZ back in February almost directly opposite our likely crossing in a couple of days. The milestones are piling up – good feeling.

Baldy D, I think I may have sent you on a bit of a wild goose chase – apologies if so, but I have a feeling we did not post Brian’s story about his Qantas flight over Antarctica talking about the various sunrises he saw because we couldn’t contact him for permission, but Brian, if you are reading this, and it’s ok with you, could you please let Stephen know at berri@berrimilla.com that is’s ok to post it. Baldy is a BA 747 jockey who flies over the Canadian Arctic. Thanks. Stephen I think it was before NZ – don’t remember exactly.

[Ed: here ‘tis…]

Hi Al,

I’ve been following your adventures with great interest and thanking my lucky stars it’s you and not me out there. Huge admiration on my part…! The CSIRO wiz was talking thru his bum re your course and heading; you are obviously on an accurate course with your GPS. However, I agree with him about where and when the sun rises, as I worked it out on a Buenos Aires to Auckland leg I flew at this time of the year a couple of years back. We took off at 2200, in the dark, and headed about 190 past Cape Horn to 60S, then turned right and followed 60S to stay out of the Westerly at 35000 feet. Then at about 150W steered northwest up to Auckland.

What happened sunwise was this; as we got down to 60S, the sun appeared to the South. (At our altitude, we were looking at it ‘beneath’ the globe) The sun then remained on our port side till we turned Northwest some hours later, when it disappeared and we were in darkness again. About two hours after that, we had the normal slow sunrise behind us in the East. All this caused some alarm among the sisterhood down the back of the aeroplane. (“Darrel, I TOLD you that Captain Maher couldn’t be trusted. We’re all going to DIE because of him….”)

I”m sure the foregoing has been of absolutely no use to you atall, but I thought I’d tell you anyway. Keep up the good work and don’t talk to any strange icebergs.

All the best, Brian and M.C.

PeterB – further to bird description – they have darker wingtips on top and a diagonal dark band on each wing top from mid leading edge back inwards to wing root at the body, undersides of wing leading edges dark, otherwise white. Lovely to look at – soft greyish brown and crisp white.

1-24. Closing on the Barn Door

Oct 12, 2005 - 2100hrs UTC

By Alex on October 12, 2005, at 2100 UTC

Topic(s): Garbage, VoA

2100hrs 12 Oct 2005 UTC 37’41”S 007’33”W Ref 436

We now have a copy of the Times article. That Ed Gorman must have a mind like mine, poor bastard. My deepest sympathy. But it’s going to be a hard act to follow. How the hell am I going to be able to go on churning out this codswallop for another two months in imitation of myself? Can’t be done. But We Shall Overcome – just have to forget I read it. And who wrote that Big Wave headline? Groan. Could’a been me. Thanks Ed.

The Times (UK) – 11 Oct 2005: Two codgers and a boat: marriage made in yachtsmen’s heaven

I’m amazed by the number of people who have stuck up their hands after my VoA gig and said that they have the same affliction – we must be a nation of silent sufferers – takes me back to the Titan Uranus episodes way back in this log – in fact I use the stuff as a prophylactic rather than a remedy – it keeps the working parts meshing smoothly, so to speak, as I go about my daily tasks and helps to retain my sense of humour. Groan again.

From Chris P.:

Meant to mention earlier – my mooring neighbour recently surprised me with the gift of a 1971 ‘Australian Seacraft’ magazine with a road test(?) of a Brolga. Interesting. Cost was $22k then. Also seemed to have different rig as the mainsheet traveller was at the aft end of the cockpit. Maybe later versions were altered for handicap reasons. Not being a racer I know nothing about this stuff.

Hope to catch you in Hobart early Dec. If not, definitely after S2H. Maybe you could visit our new straw bale house (assuming we have moved in by then) at Kettering and sample some of my duty-free single malts and barbecue skills.

Re the small dissertation on Anusol - I was communing with the vitreous enamel this morning and idly glanced at my horoscope in the Age Weekend Magazine. It started – “”Problems with Uranus, I’m afraid””. How did they know that? Almost enough to make you believe.

Chris P, I’m right there with you…How could the bastards know?? But thanks everyone, for sharing your experiences and favourite remedies. I have them all in my little black book for future reference.

G’day to all the new Gusts and correspondents – again. I’m perilously close to my Sailmail connection limit, so won’t list you all, but thanks for your good wishes and for your comments on what we are doing. So many people out there dream about this – it’s uncanny. Martin, thanks for your thoughts re book – I’m still trying to work out how to do it. And Peter D, likewise. Paul R. is it ok if we post your calculation suggestion? Hope you enjoy your little drift and the mud bath.

Still pottering along waiting for the change. Cold overcast night, occasional moon and indeterminate stars in the gaps, long rolling swell, flat grey reflections, the poled out headies silhouetted as darker shapes hardening the gloom, their edges sometimes caught by the masthead light. Tiller lines squeaking – it’s so quiet I can hear them – and the water rustling past and gently stirring the barnaclesExplanation here (Wikipedia) . Ampair whirring away in spasmodic activity. It has a different note when it is charging from when just idling.

Compressed our garbage today into big plastic bag and then into supermarket tray. We’re doing well – there’s only a very small cube of it, now lashed on deck instead of festering in the lazarette.

1-24. Closing on the Barn Door

Oct 13, 2005 – 0613hrs UTC

By Alex on October 13, 2005, at 0613 UTC

0613hrs 13 Oct 2005 UTC 38’05”S 006’47”W Ref 437

Ladies and gents – we have just really turned left. We are running along roughly the 38th parallel- a significant boundary further north as well. A Consultation is occurring and then I need some sleep. Will do DB update later. Tasmania, here we come. Keep them fingers crossed for us and get out the calculators. WOOOOHOOOO!

1-24. Closing on the Barn Door

Oct 13, 2005 - 1200hrs UTC

By Alex on October 13, 2005, at 1200 UTC

1200hrs 13 Oct 2005 UTC 38’06”S 006’00”W Ref 438

DB:117, 6954 gps 123, 54/56

About a week to the barn door.

Reading Ed’s article has rattled the marbles a bit. I’ve been trying to pin down what it was that started all this and I think it may have been as far back as the day my parents gave me Joshua Slocum’s book to read. I must have been about 10, but that book as it were lit the candle and set a standard for what is possible and that standard underpins this venture as well. When I first had the idea, long before I met Pete and perhaps as far back as the 1977 Hobart, it was a fantasy but with definite attitude. I can remember it sitting out there as a sort of whimsical dare that I used to play with and I think some decisions since then have been influenced by the harder edge of that fantasy.

The Sydney -Rio start in Jacqui was one of these and there’s always been that unfinished 1961 Fastnet out there stage left. When it became possible for me to buy a boat this size, I had a tiny budget. I was looking for a seaworthy go-anywhere boat at the right price, but with the 50th Sydney-Hobart race in the front of my mind rather that a jaunt across the ocean to play at Fastnets. But always, down there lurking in the subconscious was old Joshua, putting tintacks in front of my bare feet to send me generally in this direction.

For instance, I had decided that an S&S 34 was the way to go, but the S&S tag meant that they were all – I thought – significantly overpriced for what was on offer. Berrimilla eventually cost me a bit over half the lower end S&S’s and has proved to be at least their equal. When this project finally surfaced as an idea with some substance, the boat was there and was partly prepared. Thanks Joshua.

I did one longish two handed trip in 1994, from Eden to Sydney with Flop and we may have talked about it then, but it was when Pete and I two handed Berrimilla back from Hobart in January 2000 that the idea really eased into the frame. Even then, it needed a lot of other lucky breaks, like a modest redundancy cheque and tolerant families, but here we are. And – most astonishingly of all, there you all are.

Ed says I’m an unabashed traditionalist. Sounds a bit wooden headed to me. I don’t think so, unless that means that I try not to repeat past mistakes – mine or other peoples’. Berrimilla may be a traditional boat but she’s full of some very non traditional gear – this laptop, for instance. And while I’m now a bit too decrepit to do it myself, I applaud those who push the envelope with courage and stamina and persistence – Ellen MacArthur and Pete Goss and Kay Cottee, the many French men and women and all the others. But these people take calculated risks in sponsored boats that are designed for the purpose – mostly anyway. As an aside, who remembers the photo of one of the single handers’ boats floating upside down somewhere south of here with its keel still on and him sitting on the upturned hull waiting for rescue? Well, at least the keel stayed on, which I suppose earns some brownie points, but that lesson has been learned the hard way because people do push the edge. At the same time it is possible to have a great deal of respect for the early pioneers like Columbus and the later Corinthians like Slocum, who do this sort of thing without engines, radios, watermakers or any of the modern goodies, and often do it without seeking the coverage that we have been lucky enough to have been given. A Frenchman did it quite recently, I think, and wrote a book about it, but no-one knew he was out here and there’s a single hander from Slovenia toiling along behind us as I write, doing it very hard indeed.

On the other hand, I would think very carefully and take a lot of care picking my crew before I would set off for Hobart in a boat that was engineered for going round the buoys and short inshore races followed by an evening in the bar. Not the same exercise at all. Pounding to windward in 45 knots across Bass Strait in one of those is not my idea of common sense – the boat ought to be able to protect the crew rather than the other way around, so it needs a special crew. Furthermore, it can put other people at risk, in rescue helicopters and lifeboats, so I would have to be prepared to go for the nearest bolt hole before or at least as soon as the conditions deteriorated. Today it is no longer seen to be wimpish to pull out of long races and that has to be a change for the better. Anyway, that may be a Luddite viewpoint, but I don’t think it is wooden headed.

1-24. Closing on the Barn Door

Oct 14, 2005 - 0550hrs UTC

By Alex on October 14, 2005, at 0550 UTC

Topic(s): Henry Knight

0550hrs 14 Oct 2005 UTC 38’16”S 003’44”W Ref 439

The sheer wonder of all this has just poked me firmly in the eye. Here we are in our little plastic bathtub home with all its talky toys, barrelling across the South Atlantic towards the barn door south of Africa. I have just written to a couple of teachers and their classes in Sydney about Turner’s paintings and my daughter’s higher school certificate art project, which included a copy of a Turner painting on an old kitchen door. One of those teachers may just possibly be a descendant of Henry Knight’s father. There’s an inspirational sunrise going on in front of us and the moon set an hour or so ago directly astern – a great glowing orange ball behind some wispy cloud. And tonight, if we get lucky, we should be able to wave once again to the International Space Station as it passes overhead. And, most gobsmackerooningly of all, I can report it to all y’all in purple prose. To misquote myself – sorry Ed! – Scupper me Dingbats All Over! Isn’t technology wonderful? I can feel a Consultation and a bacon sandoAustralian sandwich coming on. Time to wake Pete. Ed G. If you are still reading this, send us your email address and we’ll give you exclusives on VoAI and the like.

1-24. Closing on the Barn Door

Oct 14, 2005 - 0900hrs UTC

By Alex on October 14, 2005, at 0900 UTC

0900hrs 14 Oct 2005 UTC 38’23”S 003’17”W Ref 440

DB 148, 6803. gps 150 55/55 HALf WAY on the Dec 11 sked. Wooohooo. And we’ve sailed at least 6520 miles by the GPS so close on distance too.

Small challenge, courtesy Paul Reid in a mudhole on Pulau Tiga:

I’ve noticed you have a penchant for meaningless calculations. The horizontal distance traveled is all well and good, but have you estimated your vertical distance traveled? i.e. the total of average wave height x frequency for each day, and how does your height travelled relate to the height above the earth of the ISSInternational Space Station? Maybe another prize competition for the nearest estimate!!

(Sounds ok to me – any takers??)

(5/6 at BelmoreSydney School corresponding with Berri SouthSydney School corresponding with Berri – can you find Pulau Tiga? You will need a really good atlas and then you can plot it on Google Earth, below)

And a toy for when Steve is up in the mountains and you aren’t getting these, also from Paul:

Something to look forward to when you two finally stop moving is a website called Google Earth. Good fun for armchair circumnavigators. It’s a 3D globe where you can pinpoint the exact location of Berrimilla (or anything else) by lat/long and scroll around, pan up and down, zoom in & out and do all sorts of wonderful things. You can fly down the Hoover Dam, or the Grand Canyon, I was able to plot and insert a pushpin at your position north of TdC (Top Dead Centre?) and pan down to the island in 3D to see ‘you’ come over the horizon. Oh and of course, major cities are visible in high definition. I can see my brother-in-laws car parked outside his house in Hong-Kong.

“Who’d sail in the tropics?”

Thanks Paul.

1-24. Closing on the Barn Door

Oct 14, 2005 - 1530hrs UTC

By Alex on October 14, 2005, at 1530 UTC

Topic(s): Heavy weather sailing, Sails

1530hrs 14 Oct 2005 UTC 38’31”S 002’27”W Ref 441

Another discourse on heavy weather sailing for the ocean sailors. We have just dropped from the #4 and two reefs to the storm jib and trisail. Setting the trisail is a major dockyard job in Berrimilla, yet it ought to be – really must be – one of the easiest sails to set. It is always set when things are getting bad, the boat is often moving quite violently, the wind tends to be at the shriek stage and there’s water flying everywhere. In Berri, both of us have to get up to the mast to drop the main, still in its track, loosely tie it and then drop it out of its track and lash it properly. Then we have to feed the trisail halyard tape slugs into the track followed by the sail, run the sheets (which is often quite difficult) and then haul it up and trim it. Ludicrous when you think about it – that lot is the last project you would want to undertake as things get nasty. This time we set it really early in expectation that things will get worse – the correct way to do it.

So what’s the answer? The best one I have seen was a set up on a boat in Hobart – Gerry Fitzgerald has photos if he’s out there – where the trisail has a separate track going right down to the deck and the sail is permanently rigged in this track, snugged down under a cover at deck level when not needed. Dead easy to set – just drop the main and lash it and haul up the tri. There isn’t room to do this on Berri and probably on a lot of other boats – we can’t get another track on to the mast and there isn’t anywhere to stow the sail at deck level – at least, there isn’t now. A compromise would be a gate in the track above the level of the lowered main so that the tri can be fed into it without taking the main out of the track. I tried to get this done in Falmouth but the rigger ran out if time and we opted to go without. Big mistake.

So there it is. The trisail is a get you out of trouble sail – very effective if used properly – and it must be ruthlessly easy to get it up or you will delay putting it up until it is too late, as we did a couple of times approaching and leaving Cape Horn. Bad Karma.

Having said all of which, we are now snug and happy having dropped from a rather dizzy and stressful 7+ knots in a nasty beam sea to a positively Bishoplike 4 – 5. Noice. Consultation with Dr GordonGordon’s Gin in 90 minutes and it’s a special half way milestone Con. Sadly, it’s 100% overcast and yet again we’re not going to see the ISSInternational Space Station go over – it is not an easy one to crack.

And someone tried to phone us at about 0930 UTC this morning. The first two rings came in then we lost the satellite signal – actually, the coax aerial cable pulled out of its socket – they don’t make these toys for boats, sorry. I fixed it and there was a single ring about 10 minutes later. If something does go wrong, always have another go in say fifteen minutes.

1-24. Closing on the Barn Door

Oct 15, 2005 – 0915hrs UTC

By Alex on October 15, 2005, at 0915 UTC

Topic(s): Heavy weather sailing, Sails

0915hrs 15 Oct 2005 UTC 38’53”S 000’48”W Ref 442

DB: 120, 6663 gps 127, 56/54 and isn’t that a nice ratio?

Pete has been messing with the entrails and other grot amongst the boot ferals and has asked me to post his ETAEstimated Time of Arrival at SE Cape so: Da-Daah! intro with fanfare on Aida trumpets – he reckons 1700 on December 5th. I do so hope he’s right! That’s about 139 miles per day. Certainly possible down here. Are there any challengers out there – we have 1700, Dec 5 and Dec 11 (say midday) on the table.

Trisail discourse part 2: Having got the thing up – all nice and colourful – and the hatch closed and the boat snug and warm and the wind noise muted and the water still rushing past the hull – you can sleep. And – having slept, the wind noise still muted and the water still rushing past, but the conditions having improved significantly, the temptation is to leave it up a bit longer (while you contemplate the feel of wet party gearFull wet weather gear and wet socks against nice warm dry skin), rather than having to reverse the dockyard job to get it off and reset the main. No problem if you are cruising – a couple of knots off the top for half a day doesn’t amount to much. If you are racing, you’ve lost it right there. We went well in the Fastnet because we sailed the boat metre by metre all the way around and it paid off, especially at the end when it would have been really easy to have stayed down with the #1 instead of setting the assyAsymetric spinnaker across the bay from Mevagissey.

For the nautically challenged, my apologies – a trisail is a tiny storm sail that is set on the mast instead of the mainsail (the big one at the back). It has two sheets or controlling lines and it is not set on the boom so it has a loose foot and can be tweaked all over the place if needed. Berrimilla’s is dayglo orange and white – mostly today they are all dayglo in orange or pink. As an ex aviator who has spent quite a lot of time in helicopters looking for people and wreckage in the water, I can confirm that those two colours are the easiest to see against a frothy grey background. The sail is about as big as half a king size bed sheet cut diagonally. The full mainsail, by comparison, is about 12 metres by 3.5, with a curved trailing edge. When the wind increases, it can be reefed or made smaller, three times, each time reducing the bit that is left by about a quarter and the bit that is left after the third reef is about twice as big as the trisail. I hope that’s not too technical.

As I write, we are 34 miles west of the Greenwich meridian so we should cross in about 6 hours. We crossed the equator at 2617 W, or nearly 1600 miles west – that’s a long diversion to stay in favourable winds but essential. The great circleSee here (Wikipedia) from Greenwich to Cape Agulhas just about follows the meridian, so it’s a long way around. And another meaningless statistic – at 3911S in about 17 miles, we will be south of Wilson’s Promontory, the southernmost point of mainland Oz, so at least in theory, we will be as far south as we need to go to get back to Sydney

1-24. Closing on the Barn Door

Oct 15, 2005 - 1640hrs UTC

By Alex on October 15, 2005, at 1640 UTC

Topic(s): Books, Computer crashes, Waves

1640hrs 15 Oct 2005 UTC 39’03”S 000’05”W Ref 443

I’ve just started to read Vera Brittain’s Testament of Youth (the paperback Virago edition, 1978), a special favourite, which I’ve been carefully saving until things started to get really hard. I found it on a shelf for book swapping in the marina laundry in Lymington and feel guilty that I took it without leaving anything in return. All Berrimilla’s outward books went to a charity shop in Falmouth. It’s the second time I have read it, the first being inspired by the BBC TV series based on it about 20 years ago. There’s a line in it that I remember from the first time in which she says (p. 20) ‘…a family’s estimate of its intrinsic importance is not always associated with qualifications which immediately convert the outsider to the same view’. Austen or Wilde couldn’t have said it better.

This echoes, for me, something I was trying to say in an earlier note, about not getting hooked on my own hype and there’s aother mirror somewhere reflecting Douglas Adams’ Man Who Ruled the Universe, whose lack of any passionate conviction except perhaps to self doubt was his chief qualification. Having read Ed’s article, it seems to me that I can go on churning out this stuff only as long as I can see no intrinsic value in it except that which each individual one of you chooses to instil into it. As soon as I cross that line, I’ve lost the plot and you should drag in Pelagia’s goat immediately. But then, perhaps this rather self indulgent bleat is exactly what should be fed to the goat and appropriately reduced to its proper state. Stuffed if I know.

We are about to cross the Greenwich meridian. Big milestone but we are still 900 miles from the barn door and the Indian Ocean. It’s bleak, blue-grey, wild, with misty rain, it’s cold and the 30kt wind is playing its muted howl in the rig. HalyardsLines to hoist the sails banging against the mast. Berri is rolling and gyrating along at about 6kt under tri and #4 and I’ve just been up into the cockpit to have a quick squizz. Mistake! I took a risk and didn’t put on the party gearFull wet weather gear, having not heard a greenie for some time and, of course, temerity got it’s just reward. I just managed to duck under the dodger and avoid most of it but I’m wet and cross with myself. Greenies, incidentally, are seldom really green – they mostly arrive as about a carload of horizontally crashing white water. It’s an expression indicating more or less solid water arriving as a moving wall. I’m now sitting wedged at the nav table on the port side and I can look across out of the starboard window and see sky – no texture, no form, just translucent light. I know the boat is rolling, but can’t tell which way except by the movement of the Cone of Silence, the heavy plastic curtain now permanently down to keep water off the electronics and the sky teeters up there for an age and suddenly there is angry grey water and rushing froth as Berri shoves aside tons of south Atlantic. And then more sky. And so the day goes on!

I’ve just tried to send a lot of stuff which has banked up – seems the Africa sailmail station has gone to sleep – and had another USB crash with attendant blue screen of deathWhat happens when the computer crashes ……desperately desperately frustrating and every time it happens I lose about ten miles of recorded GPS track and forty two of the last remaining hairs on my head. Only about another hundred of them to go – hairs and crashes – before we get home.

1-24. Closing on the Barn Door

Oct 15, 2005 - 1648hrs UTC

By Alex on October 15, 2005, at 1648 UTC

Topic(s): Computer crashes

1648hrs 15 Oct 2005 UTC 39’04”S 000’00”X Ref 444

10 minutes and yet another crash later, we’ve crossed Greenwich but missed it on the SoB record because of the crash. I wish I could convey to you the level of impotent fury this rouses in me – Why does it happen? What can I do to stop it? And the awful tension each time I recover it through the destroyed active desktop and all the rest because it isn’t consistent and I never know whether it will actually recover.

Anyway, we crossed Greenwich for the first time ever in Berrimilla at 15/16.48.53 and the Easterly numbers are climbing. I’d like to send you a wooohooo but I’m too angry. Yet I know that the thing isn’t doing it to me intentionally and I just have to live with it. So bloody well woooohooo!

1-24. Closing on the Barn Door

Oct 16, 2005 – 0900hrs UTC

By Alex on October 16, 2005, at 0900 UTC

Topic(s): Heavy weather sailing, Sails

0900hrs 16 Oct 2005 UTC 39’20”S 001’57”X Ref 445

DB: 131, 6515, GPS 137, 57/53 or 57/47 on Pete’s ETAEstimated Time of Arrival. Will stick to mine for consistency.

A huge G’day to all y’all who have jumped on since the Times article – Big G, Colin, Peter J, Vince, Ian, Pikey – and everyone else – your emails and Gust book entries inspiring and sustaining – please keep them coming.

This has to be a short one – I’ve used up my connect time with some very slow downloads – would everyone please use the berri@berrimilla.com address from here – Simon & Caro too please. Were having big trouble getting ok sailmail via Africa stn so may be off air occasionally. May also have to turnoff satphone – crappy motorola aerial fittings not made for boats.

Trisail, part three – we’ve had it up for about 3 days now and it seems to do more that its fair share of balancing the boat and moving it forward. It is happily balancing the #4 with the wind just aft of the beam at the mo. I think I’ve worked out why – the sail is sheeted through the spinnaker turning blocks which I have attached to the mooring cleats on each quarter so it is a small force acting through a very long lever (as opposed to the main, which is a huge force, but acting through a short lever at the traveller on the coachroof). And it acts low down and doesn’t stress the rig.

1-24. Closing on the Barn Door

Oct 16, 2005 - 1630hrs UTC

By Stephen on October 16, 2005, at 1630 UTC

1630hrs 16 Oct 2005 UTC 39’36”S 002’42”E Ref 446

[ed: disappointing news I am afraid. It seems that the marvellous sailmail.com system has not had much use in the African region past 3 or 4 months and so is not as reliable as in other parts of the world. They are working on it. Berri is only getting communications randomly and in small chunks, so updates will be sparse for a while. This flows on to the editing and sending of emails and gust book entries to Berri. Unfortunately the alternative means of communications, SatcommC and the satphone are horrendously expensive, so will be used very sparingly. However, don’t let that stop you emailing or gusting the boys – the (sail)mail will get through, and they thrive on it!]

1-24. Closing on the Barn Door

Oct 17, 2005 – 0400hrs UTC

By Alex on October 17, 2005, at 0400 UTC

0400hrs 17 Oct 2005 UTC 40’03”S 003’57”E Ref 447

The roaring forties are doing their thing. Barometer has dropped 12 mb in 18 hours, mostly in last 12. We’ve got a gusty 35 – 40 kt NW with very nasty quartering sea that occasionally – quite often – catches Berri unawares and throws her 60 degrees around and everything slats for a bit till Kevvo gets his wind back and sorts it out. Disconcerting though. Storm Jib and tri and going too fast most of the time. Will go up and ease the tri to see whether it helps. Into party gearFull wet weather gear. …

Now done – still in full PG – tri eased so that forward half flat against shrouds and only small aft corner curling back and pulling. Seems to have helped tho wind has dropped too – short lull between squalls. Wish I could have filmed the scene – spreader lights on, orange storm jib quivering under the load, tri taut and rigid, big steam trains of waves roaring in from std qtr with tops breaking and luminous from spreader lights – sometimes crashing against the side and exploding into flying diamonds of solid spray three metres high across the whole front half of the boat – sometimes just sliding underneath pussy cat like – Berri slewing and pitching violently with each one, storm jib occasionally stalling and shaking.

Wonderful sight and experience, but always that grab of fear as the violence unleashes. So have made a cup of tea with 2 T bags – strong enough so, as the Scots say, ye could trot a mouse on it. Lots more to tell you about – the wriggle,shimmy and slide can perhaps wait – have contacted Justice, who runs the Maputo sailmail station and we are conducting tests for his aerials and reception. A good thing – gives me something to do and will leave something behind for those that follow. The sail mail people have been wonderfully helpful the whole way around – more on this later too, but thanks guys.

We are also trying to establish contact with Juri, the single hander from Slovenia, 800 miles astern heading for Cape Town. So far no go.

1-24. Closing on the Barn Door

Oct 17, 2005 - 0900hrs UTC

By Alex on October 17, 2005, at 0900 UTC

0900hrs 17 Oct 2005 UTC 40’09”S 004’18”E Ref 448

DB 118, 6366 gps 124 58/52

Not pleasant out here. We’ve been bare polingExplanation here in 45+ -nothing serious except for savage short breaking seas -had to slow right down. Now have storm jib back up – 35kt. We’ve been cooped up inside for over three days – wet nasty ‘orrible. No real prospect of let up either. I’ve just spent my sleeping watch dismantling half the inside stowage to get at the two earth fittings for the radio at Justice’s suggestion – cleaned them but seems to have made no difference. Just cant raise Africa and we don’t know why. And the usb as crashed 8 times so far while I’ve been trying to talk to him so I’m not a happy little black duck. If I cant get Chile later, this may never get sent.

Seabirds everywhere in the storm – big black petrels, I think, and an albatross to soothe my battered psyche.

Now have to wait till 0930 to try to talk to Juri in his boat Lunatic, 800 miles astern. He sounds a bit like us.

1-24. Closing on the Barn Door

Oct 17, 2005 - 1515hrs UTC │Sleeping and dressing

By Alex on October 17, 2005, at 1515 UTC

Topic(s): Dressing, Life aboard, Liferaft, Sleeping, Supplies & Storage

1515hrs 17 Oct 2005 UTC 40’08”S 004’55”E Ref 449

Wriggle, shimmy and glide – people ask us how we live in our little bus shelterExplanation here.

I sleep in the port (left) bunk – in which it is physically impossible to sleep straight or comfortable because the chain plate (big metal strip that ties the mast to the keel under the shrouds) goes down through the middle of it at about shin level. I’ve got an el cheapo sleeping bag – zipped across the foot and up one side and on top of it I have a dayglo orange sea rug – a sort of marine doona. I’ve just put the sleeping bag into its bivvy bag because everything is now wet – either soaked or damp – unless it has been protected. Quite tricky to get into all that. Getting out is harder because it’s always snug and warm and party gearFull wet weather gear is not snug and warm. I sleep in my day top of two layers of thermals, plus a pair of fleece pants which live inside the sleeping bag when not in use. I keep my norwegian knitted boot feral comforters between the bag and the searug when not in use to try to dry them out. I have got used to the chummy pond and the noisy chatter of the ferals as they breed and fester. So the wriggle – hook thumbs into elastic waist of pants behind hips, raise mid section on heels and shoulders and wriggle bott out from elastic. Shimmy fleece pants down to ankles and remove, put in bag beside now rapidly cooling rump and untangle woolly overalls and glide first one raised leg, then the other into overalls, shimmy waist bit of overalls over hips and wriggle bott into place. All this in supine position. Slide norwegian comforters over feet – easy if both are dry…and execute exquisitely timed luuurch upwards or the grab rail. Contact made, right leg over the lee cloth and pole. pull body into approx vertical stance and again, time the move from there to somewhere convenient to wedge self and pee bucket – and so the watch gets under way.

Simon asked about the boat – there’s lots of stuff on the website including photos – you have to dig a bit – and Pete composed a paean on Brolgas which is in the logs somewhere. [ed: I will dig around and put some links here… soon]

This one’s a catch up – Gerry glad you’re back – send us some short bursts.

From Doug M.

Interesting that such a coincidence has arisen but I really think that is all that it is. However as I have no details of Henry Knight the mayor of Erskineville I cannot confirm things at this time. Henry Knight (the father and diarist) was born1817 Leigh Kent and buried Rookwood Sydney 1902 – he was the landscape gardener for Sir Thomas Walker at the Yaralla Estate, Concord Sydney. He was later an orchardist nearby

I have no problem letting you have access to any of my Henry Knight diary transcriptions if you wish to mention things, or a copy of the original slip of paper by the Capt of the JAVA with co-ords of Henry Juniors 1853 burial at sea.

Doug, thanks for offer of access to Henry K material – yes please – maybe BelmoreSydney School corresponding with Berri SouthSydney School corresponding with Berri kids would be interested too, especially if there is a relationship.

For BelmoreSydney School corresponding with Berri SouthSydney School corresponding with Berri – good to have you back on the job. Have you found Pulau Tiga? I think it is very small. Pulau is the Indonesian and Malaysian word for ‘Island’. When you do find it, I would like a report on how it looks on Google Earth please!

From Adrian, Belmouth South School, in Australia:

Did any part of your ship break near Cape Horn?

Adrian, we were very lucky and we didn’t break anything important near Cape Horn, but we did lose our liferaft in a big storm near Montevideo just after leaving the Falkland Islands. It was hit by a huge wave and the lashings broke. The liferaft had a gas bottle and it inflated and was pulled along behind the boat until it filled with water and the painter (the line attaching it to Berrimilla) broke under the strain. It was too heavy and there was too much wind and rough water for us to get it back again. The liferaft had a number on it like a car registration, so that the rescue authorities know which boat it belongs to. Luckily, we have a satellite phone, so I was able to call the Australian Maritime Safety Authority in Canberra to tell them that we had lost the raft so if anyone found it and reported it they would know that we were ok. I don’t know whether anyone did. Perhaps it is still drifting towards Uruguay!.

From Fatima, Belmouth South School, in Australia:

What do you eat and drink, (apart from tea, haha!)

Fatima, there’s a long list of our ‘rations’ – our food stores – on the website. Most of it is canned – meat, vegies, fruit – or dried, like soup, dried fruit, pasta and rice and specially prepared dried meals in plastic packs – just add water and heat! Dried food is ok as long as we can carry or make enough water to cook it and we have a water maker that I told you about in another answer. We also take as much fresh fruit, eggs, vegetables and bacon as we think we can eat before it goes bad. We still have some eggs and some bacon and some garlic left. And we always have lots of chocolate.

From Allan Fenwick:

I lost the plot years ago, so I can recognize others who are so afflicted, and believe me you two have no plot to lose, it went a few decades ago. My studies show all sailors carry this gene, academics put it cruelly by the label IDIOT. As academics also carry this gene in a greater proportion to sailors, we really know who the idiots are, so the real label for sailors are, adventurers, explorers, and challengers of convention,and know when we are having fun in an environment that lets our minds expand, so the real meaning of life is expressed by those who choose to sail.
this life is no dress rehearsal, its the real thing, and those who wait for a better one will be disappointed because there is none to be had. And just incase i’m wrong at least sailors have will have lived this one to the full and enjoyed it.

Fenwick – you can be quite erudite at times! I think your last should be set in lights on the website somewhere!

Mal – thanks for ISSInternational Space Station passes but I doubt whether we will see the sun, let alone the ISSInternational Space Station for the next 50 days or so. Very gloomy thought. How goes Wildfire?

Huge thank you yet again to everyone who has signed on and sent us encouraging and often very personal messages. We are stuck in a long timewarp out here and it is enormously sustaining when things ain’t going so good to get your thoughts and good wishes and to share your dreams. When we get back, it would be fantastic if we could somehow keep this going and get your continuing stories – so many of you are clearly on the way to doing interesting things. Any suggestions? And we are avidly looking forward to meeting as many of you as possible.

I think we may have made some progress in contacting the African sailmail station – I’ve now just got to cope with USB crashes. The sailmail people are great. I think I told you that we are trying to contact the single hander behind us – so far no luck, but we know he’s there and wants to talk to us because he is talking on a ham radio net.

Everything is damp, cold, clammy and dismal – so we had a special Consultation with Dave G’s bottle of Bundy this morning. Thanks Dave – just what we needed, especially me after a dreadfully frustrating headbang of a morning. Not a good day so far – I’ve had 40 minutes sleep since 0300. Just grinding out the miles and the numbers and hoping that we can keep transmitting. I can’t afford to use the SatComC again – it’s heaps too expensive for this sort of volume. Just had another go at SM Africa after a reasonable send last time and once again back in oblivion. I don’t know what’s going on – we’ve been able to talk to everyone else and can still get Chile when propagation allows.

1-24. Closing on the Barn Door

Oct 17, 2005 - 2230hrs UTC │Power problem

By Alex on October 17, 2005, at 2230 UTC

Topic(s): Communications, Power problems, Power supply

2230hrs 17 Oct 2005 UTC ??’??”S ???’??”E Ref 450

[ed: feast then famine. Just as the sailmail problems were sorted we have a huge problem. Read on….] disaster. generator has failed – prob. bearings. no spare. have approx 80 ltrs usable diesel + v. limited sunlight for solar. will assess over 48 hours – meantime hf only for grib. will send 1 short satcom update daily. power 4 watermaker + instruments only.. diversion capetown not feasible within orig project – may aim for fremantle.. will report in next 12 hours. bummer. love to all.

1-24. Closing on the Barn Door

Oct 18, 2005 - 0430hrs UTC

By Alex on October 18, 2005, at 0430 UTC

Topic(s): Power problems

0430hrs 18 Oct 2005 UTC ??’??”S ???’??”E Ref 451

[ed: as you can see, we are down to satcom transmissions only. Very expensive, so unless someone knows someone who knows someone who can get some sponsorship for the satcom we are stuffed. Sorry all]

1. divert to c.town 4 new generator would add at least 12 days to journey snd slmost certainly kill any chance of making start line.

2. continue, in strict conserve mode and aim for fremantle to refuel. we are about 42 days from freo and should have enough fuel to charge battery daily and supplement with solar when available. a 5 cape circ would still – just – be possible if we make good time, start line certainly possible via bass st. no choice really. we will have to assess our power consumption, fuel etc over next few days. meantime, 1 satcom update daily – steve, pse suggest best time for you so that we can collect short mail call at same time. use satcom 4 time being – will assess hf as we go. pse check whether jg getting these.

from damp wet cold gloom to brilliant, sparkling almost full moon. cold. poled, 1 + 2, just moving. ampair still putting in some wigglies but too slow to assess fully. sounds as if bearings dry and about to collapse. serves me right for single point of failure – altho we do have some backup. we’ll see. may be a bit short on whimsy for a few days. malcom, any chance of diesel from french? pete grad unsw 1969 bsc dip ed.

[Ed: Don Price asked a fair and reasonable question about the power issue.

How much does the Satcom cost? Is connection cost the only issue, or is power going to be a problem if it’s used more? (Apologies for my ignorance about these things).

My response explains it a bit more:

The laptop and HF transmission gear consume much wattage. The Satcom is a handheld unit and hence quite low power consumption. The generator kept input comfortably in front of output, but with lousy sunshine for the solar panels and limited diesel for the motor, the output required o run laptop and HF will kill the batteries pretty quickly. Priority has to be given to the nav and running gear, so Satcom it is.

Satcomm cost is about 1c per character! It adds up awfully quickly.]

1-24. Closing on the Barn Door

Oct 18, 2005 – 0900hrs UTC

By Alex on October 18, 2005, at 0900 UTC

0900hrs 18 Oct 2005 UTC 40’19”S 006’15”E Ref 452

[ed: decision is to head for Fremantle – the sun is currently shining]

DB: 91 gps 101 6294 (SECape) 5292 (Freo) Yesterday and the preceeding few days were pretty awful, especially yesterday, for radio and generator reasons as well as general convergence slime. Today, we have bright sparkling sunshine, thousands of birds again, mostly a variant of the ones near TdC but some bigger beautifully patterned guys – all soft greys and flecked bands – plus the black topsided guys with the white splodges – these are magnificent in the sunlight – the white parts glisten and reflect.

We have the solar panel feeding the battery so I’m going to risk that and ask for the next grib as well. Will send one whenever we can, else shorties by satcom.

1-24. Closing on the Barn Door

Oct 18, 2005 - 1245hrs UTC

By Alex on October 18, 2005, at 1245 UTC

1245hrs 18 Oct 2005 UTC 40’19”S 006’38”E Ref 453

will try to keep sending these – they may be written over more than one day so perhaps even more disjointed and ungrammatical than usual. Date stamp is start time.

Have just cranked up the Satcom again – French Indian Ocean forecasts for Ile Amsterdam, Crozet and Kerguelen (Area ACK) are comprehensive and they give the area co-ordinates so they are usable without an area chart. Eureka!. They are sent from Reunion. May be able to get away without grib even. Rain and snow forecast for WH and CH Crozet! – I don’t know what WH and CH mean but it looks a bit rugged over there – We will pass through Am South and Crozet in about three weeks. Find the thermals!

We now have a nice little spider’s nest of dental floss to help IsabellaAlex's sister wrap a spinnaker – I think it will need about 95 kilometres of the stuff!

Taking advantage of sunshine to dry out boat, esp. festering sox from boot feral lairs – I’ve been wondering whether each colony has developed a different set of pheromones – trouble is, can’t tell sox apart in dark and so can’t control experiment. Also, pong so intense, might be difficult to detect subtle differences in sexual come-ons without specially evolved nose. I keep the sox in bed with me to try to dry them out, so may even evolve nose.

We’re in huge swells – big ship sized, short wavelength, coming in from the SW. No appreciable wind waves on top, so can see whole vast sloping expanse and deep valley across to next crest as we go up the sides. Something big going on down there somewhere!

I have a list of sailmail stations in the propagation engine in Airmail. Ther are in order of distance – it goes Africa, Chile, Red Sea, Belgium, Panama, Firefly NSW (@6054 miles) followed by 10 others. Big milestone when we get our first connection with them – the station is run by Penta Comstat.

Have just pulled in latest grib – 2 v nasty looking lows behind us – calm patch in the middle. Making most of interlude. Still reading Vera Brittain – marvellous book – when I think of myself at 23, inarticulate, completely uninterested in learning, no perception of myself as a living human being, more a conforming and frightened actor in a sea of other peoples’ expectations, Brittain’s letters and ideas and sheer scholarship – as a woman in 1915! – seem so absolutely awe inspiring – and her ability to express her feelings to her fiance in the awful times that surrounded them – her lingering love and their despair as he left for France – evocative, heroic, inspiring and ultimately sustaining. I remember her as an old lady in the front line of ban the bomb marches. I also remember my great Aunt, of about the same age and background but without the ambition or scholarship, who,I think, may have lived through the same experience – when she died, we found similar letters and military insignia. She never married or ever talked about those times.

We’re making water as fast as we can to build a reserve in case we can’t make more each day. Solar panel sustaining watermaker and battery level. Just. We will not be so lucky with sunshine in the next few days.

Will try to send this…

1-24. Closing on the Barn Door

Oct 18, 2005 – 1700hrs UTC

By Alex on October 18, 2005, at 1700 UTC

1700hrs 18 Oct 2005 UTC 40’29”S 007’07”E Ref 454

Interim report. We’ve had a good day’s sunshine, made water, collected a grib and Steve’s mailcall over sailmail and the generator is still putting in some charge. We don’t know how much because the Xantrexxantrex battery monitor monitor died and we haven’t been able to resurrect it. Every day it goes on working is a day’s fuel saved. It looks as if there is some really nasty weather behind us, so there’s that flutter of trepidation clutching my inners. It’s moving very fast – perhaps at 40 kt, so will go through fast and the next one will arrive. The grib says 40 and that generally means a lot more.

From Mark A.

I am in WA. I sailed back from Hobart with Alex many years ago? 1998? If you get this, I can assist with the required Freo stop; organising repairs, etc in advance. Let me know their ETAEstimated Time of Arrival. I make it about 28 November?

Would a Bunbury or Port Geographe stop be better? There is a good marina now in Port Geographe, just east of Busselton and far less distance to travel north. I take it they will be just fixing the generator and moving on asap?

From John G.

Just read that Berri is coming to Freo for spares\repairs\provisions. Can you let Alex know that I would be available and glad to help in any way possible. We would have a car available, but I should be able to arrange a day or two off work. Hard to run around a strange town in a hurry! A dry bed and a warm shower,a roast dinner, a guinness or two?? I do understand they will probably be in a hurry. Anyway, glad to help. Sorry to hear of the generator problem – and the sailmail problem.

Mark A and John G, both in Perth, thanks for offers of help – we will stay in touch on that one but I like Mark’s suggestion that we go to Port Geographe instead of Freo. Mark, I don’t think I have pilotage details for PG and it’s not on the level of CMap that is currently loaded, so perhaps you could give me a set of coordinates please. I have Busselton and surrounding lights etc. If we do call in, we will have to clear customs, refuel, restock the medicine chest and move right on out – same day if possible. We will not repair the generator, (they need specialised facilities) but if anyone over there has a second hand Ampair 100 going for a song, we’d be very interested.

I had intended to continue my salutes to people who have helped us – starting a few weeks ago with Brian Shilland. Perhaps one a week till we get over there – this one is to Kevin Fleming, who I have never met but who has become a friend over sailmail, email, the phone and by snailmail.

So,to all the cruisers and short handed racers out there looking for self steering gear and Brian and Jen in Dunedin and those like them whose dream it is to follow us and to anyone who cares about customer service as it should be, please join us in a salute to Kevin Fleming. Kevin’s wind vane self steering unit, affectionately known as Kevvo, has performed superbly so far, through the worst storms and the nastiest seas that I ever hope to see. Not surprising when you consider that Kevin has been down in the southern ocean crash testing his own gear and he listens to his customers and actually modifies things that don’t work perfectly. Kevvo’s bearings got a bit worn on the way over and we had had some trivial problems aligning steering lines that are boat specific rather than built into the unit and I wrote and asked Kevin for a set of spares. Kevin not only agreed instantly to put one together, but also made modified versions of some of the fittings and sent it all to the UK free of charge – entirely at his own expense. Astonishing in 2005 on its own but he also included some Australian cash to cover the cost of a qualified engineer fitting the bearings properly. It was waiting for us when we got there, everything fitted properly and the mods are working away out there behind me as I write. Beat that if you can!

Onya Kevin. Great gear and an unbelievable service. You can find him at info@flemingselfsteer.com and his factory is near Adelaide. See if you can make it to the coming home party. Kevin – we owe you a Considerable Consultative thanks

1-25. Blowing a (super) gale

Oct 19, 2005 - 0350hrs UTC

By Alex on October 19, 2005, at 0350 UTC

Topic(s): Heavy weather sailing, Sailchange

0350hrs 19 Oct 2005 UTC 40’44”S 008’02”E Ref 455

18/2045

Here’s a warts and all sail change. If you’re enjoying your breakfast, perhaps you should leave it till later. It’s about 8 pm and I’ve just laid me head on the pile of old socks and fleece jackets that constitutes my pillow or so it seems when I’m awake again because Berri is beefing about the wind strength and the #2 we have up. The rather nice bowl of Nathan’s Chefsway dried bow tie pasta (my favourite) I’d had about an hour previously was down there in it’s little bucket of acid doing whatever stomachs do and not comfortable. So wriggle shimmy and glide and into – today anyway – lovely dry party gearFull wet weather gear and really stir the pasta. Pete says it’s cold and drizzling so put extra fleecy waistcoat underneath jacket and wear balaclava under hood. Michelin man and sweaty already. Up we go and it’s just as the man said – cold driving drizzle, nasty. Drop the 2, run the sheets, tie them onto the inner forestay, Pete goes to get pliers for recalcitrant hank while I sit feeling bilious on the pitching foredeck. Help with hank, lying across wet sail and holding spray can while Pete works hank with pliers. Take can and pliers back to cockpit down the obstacle course along the lee side and return to foredeck while Pete finishes rolling up the 2. Eventually fight the 2 into its bag and into the hatch, tie the sheets on to the 4 and P hanks on while I go back to the halyard. Pull it up, tummy by now boiling with anger, make it all fast and wind on the sheet. Serious hard work and abdominal muscles in full stride bracing the shoulders and arms. Really sweating under all the gear, even in cold and rain, and feeling dreadful. Go below to resume sleep – just manage to get gear off before expiring with the heat and now I’m sitting here feeling puky, sleep impossible and about to be back on watch. It’s quite often like this, I expect for Pete as well, but we can’t choose the time to change sail. Usually better to cool down on deck before coming down but too dank and dismold tonight. Should have anyway. Bleah! A cup of mouse strength tea, perhaps, to subdue the collywobbles.

Decided to forego the tea and I’m having it now. With 3 McVities dunkers. Noice. Everything changes so fast here – we go from 40kt astern to 0 to 25 from the NE to NW to W in a few hours and to make real progress, someone has to be dressed and ready to go on deck at any time and at least adjust the sails and keep Berri heading roughly East. My estimate of 42 days to Freo is likely to be wildly out based as it was on a daily run of 120 miles E. Not going to happen – I think we will be snaking along at about 5 knots average but all over the place. Todays run at 0900 will be interesting. More likely to be 50+ days. Gloom – but We Shall Overcome.

Just been up making a 60 degree course change. Cold. Fluffy cu overcast. very low, with gaps. Sunrise an hour or so away on the starboard bow, silvery blue grey sky silhouetting hard grey edge of cloud to starboard, moon setting on port quarter – orange yellow glow behind mottled wispy cloud. Just wish we could point at the sun! Black shapes of birds all around. wind still backing – may have to gybe and put the pole on the 4.

1-25. Blowing a (super) gale

Oct 19, 2005 - 1010hrs UTC │Clench-Inducing Sequences V

By Alex on October 19, 2005, at 1010 UTC

Topic(s): Albatrosses, Birds, Heavy weather sailing

1010hrs 19 Oct 2005 UTC 40’41”S 008’38”E Ref 457

0845 – went to bed and couldn’t sleep and the nasties went through pussy cat like and we’re back in the sun for a bit. no sleep for the wicked – we put the poles on and now we’re twinned with the 4 + 5.

i don’t intend this to become a litany of difficult and ultimately boring sail changes – i’m trying to put together a typical day for yez all. at 0900, i do the daily fix and work out the days run so here goes – water temp below 10 degrees.

db 105, 5126 freo, 6157 secape, gps 114 so we wiggled around a bit as expected, day 60, 50 to sec. sunrise now around 0430 utc which is a good sign. generator still going – it seems not to work any more below about 5 knots – friction i suppose.

birds all around – not as many, but two or three medium sized albatrosses. i think we are too far north for the wonderful wanderers but we may get lucky. lets see whether africa is out there…it wasn’t – will have to wait till this evening.

here we go again. wind back to 35, ssw, 4 + 5 off and stowed, 2 storm jibs poled out. big swell from sw with cross swell – cant pick it. rain squalls, intermittent sunshine, alternate diamonds and dirty washing in the machine.

1100 – wind now steady 40+ kt – big seas building behind – berri behaving but quite a wild scary ride – have a 3 minute film of it – hope it works. can feel big surging rushes as we take off down waves. spume and froth racing past the kitchen window – must be back in the bus shelterExplanation here. still no usable contact today with africa sailmail – very very frustrating – i know there are 10 messages waiting for us – will satcom this if no go tonight. back to mushroom soup and vera brittain – sitting wedged on the cabin floor in a piece of foam.

1-25. Blowing a (super) gale

Oct 19, 2005 - 1400hrs UTC │Clench-Inducing Sequences VI

By Alex on October 19, 2005, at 1400 UTC

Topic(s): Heavy weather sailing, Waves

1400hrs 19 Oct 2005 UTC 40’37”S 009’05”E Ref 458

steady 50+ – gusting 60 – just taken both poles and one jib off in huge breaking waves – dangerous work – berri sliding haphazardly off the sides – survival mode for the time being. shit i wish i could talk to africa sailmail. i don’t think it’s us but i can’t be sure and no one else is in range till tonight if we are lucky. warm and reasonably calm and quiet inside.
big slashing surges and rolls outside – making 8+ knots at times – storm jib gybes with some rolls – kevvo struggles it back. making a cup of tea – we’re both up and half partied in case we have to go out again. doesn’t seem to be easing and there’s another one behind it.

50 days of this will be a barrel of laughs.

Later…
my cup of tea tastes of mushroom soup. erk. just had the cockpit filled by a big roller. no sign of ease – should go thro very fast at this wind speed.

Later still…
this feels like cape horn all over. still hitting 60, savage short breaking seas, at least half mast height. very nasty. not in the brochure. grab bag prepared with epirb, satphone, gps, medicinal potions. grey knuckles in evidence. and there’s anther one to come. we’re trying to climb north to get a bit further away from the next one but v. slow. will try to gett sailmail msgs tonight, if unable, pse satcom anything important.

1-25. Blowing a (super) gale

Oct 19, 2005 - 1630hrs UTC

By Alex on October 19, 2005, at 1630 UTC

Topic(s): Heavy weather sailing

1630hrs 19 Oct 2005 UTC 40’28”S 009’15”E Ref 459

almost time for daily consultation with dr gordonGordon’s Gin. wooohooo. easing slightly outside – 45 – 50 have managed to pull in a grib and 2 mailcalls – absolutely amazed at the generosity of all y’all who have sent us donations – have no words – me yet. thank you all . we will put it towards the satcomc account and try to stay in touch all the way.. i’m assuming that you would rather not have your names in lights on the website but i’m sure steve can organise a list if needed. am also in touch with sailmailafricaby satcom and we are trying to find the problem.

as for the rest – i think that we should be able to keep the batteries charged all the way, with or without the generator, which is still giving some charge. we would prefer to go tohobartif possible and that remains the principal aim.

From Malcom C

Bit of info. The radio call sign for V/I Marion Dufresne is FNIN, the ship’s MMSI number (whatever that is) is 227235000. This comes courtesy of P&O Marine Services, Hobart, who supply icegoing supply and oceanographic ships on contract to the Oz Govt. Turns out David Vaudrey their Safety and Operations Manager was at CSIRO at same time as I was in the late 1970s, thought I recognised the name. David also met you, Alex, a couple of years ago at the end of a S2H. Still working on other info re Ile Amsterdam.

malcom, thanks for c/s and mmsi – i know how to use it – all to do with new ais systems. ours is 503039300.

timj – thnks for ct info – we hope to avoid it but really useful if things go pearshaped. kind thought. diana, yer a gem. terry and susie – fancy freckles it is kids – just where the sun shines..

and hi to everyone else who wrote – you have no idea how it helps to get your messages in this sort of nastiness.

it does have its compensations. have just spent half an hour wedged at galley eating cheese and ryvita and hilary’s mum’s wonderful chutney and watching the waves crashing past – all rolling forwards at least twice as fast as us – but the birds – wow – the black topped guy with the splodges in particular – he’d come down close, facing into wind, wings spread just outside our niagara of a wash and run along the surface – little feet whirring, wings curved down, rounded face looking down. and the storm petrels look like little balls of black and white fluff as they jing and swerve and just flollop. the bigger petrels fly down the wavefronts into wind and do spectacular wingovers and race down the backs of the waves.

time to wake pete – he’d even sleep through a consultation. we’re planning a special one for trafalgar day.

1-25. Blowing a (super) gale

Oct 19, 2005 – 2130hrs UTC

By Alex on October 19, 2005, at 2130 UTC

2130hrs 19 Oct 2005 UTC 40’05”S 009’30”E Ref 460

Now easing but still some big waves amplifying across the swell and smiting us might blows upon our tender sides. There should now be up to a day of relative calm then it’s on again bigtime from the north, backingnorth west. We have climbed to the north and will continue to do so and try to get as far from the hard stuff as we can. The Examiner seems to be on the road again in boots and leathers.

Limited contact with Sailmail but will continue to use when possible.

Hot meal earlier – can of Asda chunky chicken in indeterminate cream sauce with can of corn and can of spuds absolute magic. That Pete is a genius.

Will send this while we have contact.

1-25. Blowing a (super) gale

Oct 19, 2005 - 2359hrs UTC

By Alex on October 19, 2005, at 2359 UTC

2359hrs 19 Oct 2005 UTC 39’54”S 009’34”E Ref 461

From Jez Rowles, Essex, UK

Every day continues to amaze me, and I wanted to let you know the pleasure it is to get home and log onto the berri site to follow the happenings in your world. Your adventures are being shared with my kids aged 3, 2 and 8 months and have replaced their more usual bed time stories over the last 2 weeks. With the exception of Joe (my 2 year old) who has started mumbling “”kevvo”” as he drifts off to sleep, they seem none the worse for the experience !

Given the power problems you have currently, I have taken steps to wean the kids off of tales from the southern ocean and tonight we have read “”Across the Nullabor””. A lovely little kids book that my wife brought back from some Australian travels. It’s not quite the same but at least the accent I am assuming is consistent. I hope you can keep up with the words and the regular updates to the log but rest assured that this corner of Essex (a long, long way from berri ) will be thinking of you and willing you on. A few more references to Pirates and Princesses in the text of your log may be useful in keeping the interest of the family until Boxing day, but if you can’t manage that I’ll just keep adding them on the semi-random basis that I have been using until now.

Keep pushing on.

To Lizzie, Joe and Harvey Rowles – our youngest fans ever, average age about three – Hello! I expect you are all tucked up in snozzy warm pyjams with – who?? Do you have Teddies? An old sock? I used to have a brown bear but I can’t remember his name. We’re in a little boat in a VERY BIG ocean and it is wet and windy where we are – and cold too. I sometimes go to bed with my gloves and beanieKnitted hat on! And my smelly socks. My bed moves up and down and sideways all night – does yours? Look after your dad and tell him a nice bedtime story! We hope you can come and see us one day. Alex and Pete.

Not much to report immediately. It’s been a long day and we’re still rolling wildly but the wind is back to about 25. We are heading NNE with just the storm jib and will probably climb to about 3930 before turning east again. That should ease the pain of

things to come just a little – we hope! A superb Turner night – moon behind ridged craggy cloud with glowing edges, storm jib and rig and IzzoIsabellaAlex's sister, Alex’s sister’s tell tales (what’s left of them after Henry’s bit and the wind) are silhouetted against the mottled glow. Enough moonlight to reflect off the waves and the breaking tops.

1-25. Blowing a (super) gale

Oct 20, 2005 - 0530hrs UTC

By Alex on October 20, 2005, at 0530 UTC

Topic(s): Watches

0530hrs 20 Oct 2005 UTC 39’37”S 009’47”E Ref 462

Yesterday was a long and fairly grim day, so it seems to have been a good one to have tried to describe more or less as it happened. They are not all like that, although there is often a fair amount of underlying tension – in me anyway – when the wind is up around 40 kt. I won’t bore you with the same detail today – we’ve climbed nearly 70 miles to the north and at sunrise I gybed the boat – easy with just the storm jib – and pulled up the main with its first reef already set. Always a bit of a struggle solo because it usually has to come up with the wind holding it against the shrouds and invariably something gets caught at the cockpit end so have to tie off the halyard, go back and sort and return – sometimes several times. Today, the big fourth batten got itself twisted around in a loop of reefing line. Much backing and slewing. But it’s up and working, we’re heading east again and for the mo, all’s right with the world. I’ve just changed Kevvo’s windvane from small to large. There’s a big residual swell running – the principal one from the SW, with another from the south and maybe a third from the NW.

We expect the wind to soften and then come in again at 40+ from the NW and back to the west at the top of the next low some time tomorrow morning. Being a bit further north may take some of the biff out of it.

Hallo Lizzie, Joe and Harvey. What are you having for breakfast? I had some biscuits dipped in a cup of tea for mine. I think you have heard about our metal friend called Kevvo – he’s a sort of robot who steers the boat when we need both hands and sometimes both feet as well to do other things. We don’t think there are any pirates out here but he looks out for them too. He’s steering now and I expect he’s hoping a metal princess will appear one day out of the misty sea so he can run away and live happily ever after – I hope not because we need him! Your dad says he is reading you a book about the Nullabor – I’d like to read that! – soon, I hope, we will be sailing along past the Nullabor across the bottom of Australia.

From Allan C.

Two handed Watch-Keeping systems.

On a recent trip coming back from the Azores on ‘Morgan le Fay’, (eight days from Ponta Delgada to Bayonna and five days from Ria Muros to Dartmouth) we tried a new watch keeping system that had been recommended to us. We would now firmly pass on the recommendation to others to try it for themselves.

For the short handed crew of two the problems of the well used ‘3 on/3 off’ or ‘4 on/4 off’ and their dog-watch variants are that during the off-watch period one invariably concentrates upon catching up on sleep with usually little time remaining to cook, read, converse and enjoy the trip.

At first glance the new system seemed a little daunting with its longer spells on watch, but even after just the first two days we found it to be the best system that either of us had used.

We found that it gave us each plenty of sleep and relaxed time for the off-watch activities, whilst importantly being wide-awake on-watch even during the night hours. We both commented that not once did we have that “”oh no, not another two hours to go””, nor was there the depressing struggle for another ten minutes sleep before one’s turn. At the end of each trip there was no tiredness.

The alternating watches are self-rotating:
0000 to 0400
0400 to 0800
0800 to 1300
1300 to 1900
1900 to 2400

If it worked for us, it should work for you.

Allan C, thanks for watchkeeping system – we’re pretty much stuck in a routine after nearly ten months at sea but we’ll think about it. It certainly looks sensible and if it works for you… May we post your note on the website please – I think all the sailors should see it.

1-25. Blowing a (super) gale

Oct 20, 2005 - 0900hrs UTC

By Alex on October 20, 2005, at 0900 UTC

0900hrs 20 Oct 2005 UTC 39’34”S 010’06”E Ref 463

These logs seem to be rather Alex centred – because, I suppose, they more or less follow the gyrations of my undisciplined mind – but Pete is out there too – as i write, he is on the foredeck taking down the storm jib and setting the 4. When he’s ready, I will go up and work the halyard for him and then I’ll go to bed for a bit. Pete is writing a teriffic journal which he reads me bits of. We will get it transcribed when we get back and integrate it with these logs for The Book. Steve has everything date stamped including your emails so it will be a week or three of sitting at a terminal and two columns of files on a big screen and integrating entry by entry. Tedious but, I think, ultimately worthwhile. Thanks to the person who told us about the authors’ website – was it Caro? The madding crowd becomes a blur when I’m a bit knackered – still amazed by it all and your generosity with both money and personal thoughts and ideas. I think we will have to have two coming home parties – one in Oz and perhaps one in the UK so that we can meet as many of youse as possible and say thanks personally. Would that work? If so, where and how do we communicate? Worth thinking about?

Pete has just worked the halyard all by himself. Stalwart fellow. Makes a big difference – the boat is now balanced and Kevvo isn’t sweating in the yoke quite so much. So I can go to sleep for a bit. Will continue this with the 0900 fix.

3934 01006 20/0900 61/49

DB 100 gps 120; 6133 SEC, 5089 Freo, Not a good day for progress – we are only 24 miles closer to SEC. Mostly the climb to the north. Now have full main and 2. Almost no wind, as expected.

More fame: UK Yachting WorldMagazine published in the UK 19^th Oct: Berrimilla faces communication issue

1-25. Blowing a (super) gale

Oct 20, 2005 – 1115hrs UTC

By Alex on October 20, 2005, at 1115 UTC

Topic(s): Albatrosses, Birds

1115hrs 20 Oct 2005 UTC 39’32”S 010’13”E Ref 464

We’re in mega-wallow with no wind and huge SW swell with the others across it. Seemed a good time to use a litre of precious diesel to charge the battery fully and move us forward a few miles. Expect some wind this afternoon from the NW.

It is about to be Trafalgar Day in Tonga, NZ Oz and points west as the day progresses. At some time we will dust off Nelson’s portrait, now getting a bit tatty at the edges – and broach the rum bottle in his memory and of all those who died that day.

Will try to give Cape Town Radio a courtesy call later as well – we are about 500 miles SW of them. Still 450 to the barn door, but the next few days’ westerlies should fix that. The satcom forecast for the area says 25 – 45 so we’re on again, as expected.

We have just witnessed a Convocation of Albatrosses – there are about 10 of them around us, medium sized, dark grey on top of the wings white tails and heads, lighter grey under wings, white belly. Yellow beaks, I think, with a line back from the eyes. The bigger ones have a light brown chinstrap. They all decided to settle on the water 30 metres astern – I tried to film them but without much success – there’s too much wallow going on. But they are superb to watch and they hoon in just over the stern telling us to chuck them some fish.

1-25. Blowing a (super) gale

Oct 20, 2005 - 1800hrs UTC

By Alex on October 20, 2005, at 1800 UTC

Topic(s): Albatrosses, Birds

1800hrs 20 Oct 2005 UTC 39’25”S 010’47”E Ref 465

We had a small Trafalgar-Day-on-the-Dateline rum for the dead on both sides and we’re due for another in our own timezone tomoz. Would a’ been nice to have been in Port Stanley – JMB, hope you have a good one.

And we’ve just had our evening G&TGin and Tonic as the sun set almost directly astern behind some formless soft grey cloud that gradually emerged into ridges and layers as the sun gave it some backlight. Not a lot of attitude there – we were expecting – and I think will still get – some more serious biff out of it but it may have slowed down a bit. Still a huge swell and 40 kts for a couple of days over the top of it will be something straight from the Examiner.

There’s a new Albatross – lighter coloured, with a white head and beak, light grey wings with white slashes about a third of the way out and dark tips under the wings. Maybe 2.5metre span – about as big in the body as a small goose.

Fenwick – your erudition constantly amazes – where have you been hiding it? Is this a manifestation of The Cringe? Perhaps if you were to shave once a week or so and wash occasionally, people would give you the respect your obvious talents deserve. Say G’day from us at the Lord Howe briefing – the first we’ve missed for a long time – and Hi to Campbell and Craig and Clive and all on the Island. Good luck with the shirt auction.

Mark – thanks for port info – I’d forgotten about Albany but that’s clearly the way to go if we do need to call in. Steve will forward your info as we get closer. Thanks re the Ampair – we’ve got all the bits – wind kit, towing frame etc – all we really need is the actual generator body. Ours is still putting out some charge and every day gets us closer. I think that with careful conservation, we will make it across, even using sailmail and the HF and might manage direct to Hobart. Far too far out to speculate. We’ve yet to pass Africa.

From Jez R. Essex, UK

Kids and father thrilled by news of Pirates and Princesses from the southern ocean. Bedtime a major success here, kids sleeping soundly and I’m about to take a consultation of my own.

Keep the miles and the words coming, and I’ll keep L, J & H up to date with your adventures.

Lizzie, Joe and Harvey – Kevvo says Hi – in his tinny and rather squeaky voice. He’d wave as well except that his hands are holding the tiller lines really tight so he doesn’t let go. No princesses yet, though a big seabird called an albatross nearly pooed on him yesterday.

20/2200 and the wind is coming in – 25 – 30 now and we’ve dropped the main and set the 4 in anticipation of quite a bit more. But we’re heading east, 400 to the barn door and the I.O.

1-25. Blowing a (super) gale

Oct 20, 2005 – 2300hrs UTC

By Alex on October 20, 2005, at 2300 UTC

2300hrs 20 Oct 2005 UTC 39’30”S 011’17”E Ref 466

Another salute – a week early because I want it out there before Steve leaves for the UK. This one is to a couple of guys without whom all this could never have happened. Stephen Jackson in Sydney and Malcolm Robinson in Hobart take it in turns to run the website – it owes its entire existence to these guys. They are berri@berrimilla.com and anyone who has sent us an email via the website has talked to one of them. You can join me in my roar of applause by sending them smileys at berri@…Thanks also to Tricia and Megan for accepting with the equanimity that they do, the disruption that all this must cause.

Malcolm: He turned up on the jetty a few years ago at the Royal YC of Tasmania and asked if we knew of anyone who needed a crew. A likely lad we thought – jump on, mate. Since then he’s done umpteen Hobarts, and Lord Howes and we’ve learned to love him dearly. He’s a sailor’s sailor – great downwind helmsman, not as good as me upwind in Berri but in his own boat probably about 10 % better. Courage is not about blind leaps but about calculated risk and facing known – or unknown – fears with ones eyes open. I remember a wild kiteSailors’ slang for a spinnaker ride on one of the Hobarts – I bet Mal does too – where we had the assyAsymetric spinnaker up in about 35 knots right, right out on the edge – swell building, Mal steering, averaging about 7 knots, catching waves and scared absolutely fartless. So was I. I could see his grey knuckles and was trying not to interfere cos I knew he was doing better than I could ever hope to do. He was cold and wet and – at last at one level, enjoying himself despite the shivers. We had a near wipeout with a bigger wave and a simultaneous gust and I pulled the plug – kiteSailors’ slang for a spinnaker down and a relieved Mal – but he’d have stayed there if I’d asked him to. I think that was the ride that lifted us into third place that year. He’s a bit of a whizz with nerdery and he is responsible for the tracking charts and the photo albums on the website along with lots of enormously helpful advice. Thanks Mate, for heaps and good luck with the new boat.

Stephen: what can I say. A perfectionist for a start – he is an accredited Olympic measurer and measured the Sydney olympic marathon course for SOCOG to within a few nanometres – double checked by another guy from the UK. Also stark raving bonkers. He’s skydived out of a Russian Antonov cargo plane onto the North Pole, climbed various mountains in Nepal and South America, has run 42 marathons with a best time of 2:32:17 (BASTARD! mine’s 2:41.49, so he’d have been 2k ahead of me), raced cars and motor bikes and push bikes, is a nerd with an MBA from AGSM, working towards a PhD. and has worked all over the world in various IT jobs. He sailed in the ’03 Hobart with us – that’s him on the website in the big white hat, (Mal is behind him in a harness, I think) he is our beloved El Pres in the Sydney Striders, is married, has 3 kids and is off to the UK on Nov 22 to marry one of them off and, incidentally, to collect our RORC award from Janet and Caro and bring it back. If anyone wants to buy him a beer while he’s over there, berri@berrimilla.com will find him until he leaves. I suggest an inaugural Convocation of UK Berri Webbers at Shepherd’s Tavern in Shepherd’s Market off Curzon St in London one day in November. In his spare time, he spends 24 hours a day running the website for us and keeping all y’all up with the news. Steve, I dips me lid bigtime. Some debts of gratitude go way beyond words. Thanks.

1-25. Blowing a (super) gale

Oct 21, 2005 – 0350hrs UTC

By Alex on October 21, 2005, at 0350 UTC

0350hrs 21 Oct 2005 UTC 39’28”S 011’48”E Ref 467

Local Trafalgar day. We are feeling a bit embarrassed by all your continuing generosity. It is wonderful and we are grateful beyond words but, all the same, unexpected and rather special. Thank you all. It seems we may need to use the SatCom C to stay in touch rather more than I had hoped and I will use your donations exclusively to fund that expense. If there is anything left when we get home, we’ll put it on the bar at the coming home party(s?).

We are just north of the Panzarini Seamount and west of the much bigger Schmitt-Ott seamount. The seabed here is about 4500 metres down and these seamounts rise almost vertically to around 2500 metres. This is very like the formations on which Lord Howe Island and Ball’s Pyramid are perched. I can’t pan out far enough on the laptop to see the whole formation but it looks like the remains of a massive crater – volcano or asteroid strike?

The wind is back – 35+ and, so far, not too savage. We’re running off slightly under just the #4, surfing every now and then. Grey bleak dawn, rain, amorphous cloud, low, baleful and determined. We may have a couple of days of it – I’m hoping to be able to pull in a grib when I try to send this – if not, then the Satcom forecast which is text rather than graphic so less user friendly.

1-25. Blowing a (super) gale

Oct 21, 2005 - 0900hrs UTC

By Alex on October 21, 2005, at 0900 UTC

Topic(s): Albatrosses

0900hrs 21 Oct 2005 UTC 39’30”S 012’26”E Ref 468

DMGDistance Made Good; More here 97 – day’s run 108, gps 115.

Steve I’ve turned off the satcom to conserve but will use it as necessary. Will stop messing about with numbers in the DB – in future, now that I can do a reasonable estimate, I will just give you DMGDistance Made Good; More here to SE Cape and the other 2 numbers to show how efficient or otherwise we have been. [62 / 48]

Lizzie, Joe and Harvey ellooo! Do you want to know why Berrimilla wanders all over the ocean instead of going in a straight line? It’s that Kevvo again, playing games with the Albatrosses which keep trying to bomb him with poo -Edit and an Albatross is a BIG bird so it’s got buckets of the stuff but it is a very clever eater so it doesn’t need to poo very often – maybe once a month – and when Kevvo sees one coming he gives one of the tiller lines a little tweak and Berrimilla gives a little wiggle, old Alby glides past and there we are – wiggling along. Albatrosses sleep while they are flying. If they didn’t, they would get very tired because they fly for days and days. If there was a very tired Alby and it wanted to lie flat on its back with its wings spread out for a snooze (which it wouldn’t, but it’s a nice idea!) then it would need a bed about twice as long as yours for each wing and another one in the middle for its body – they are very big. And talking of Alby poo – which we were, they don’t poo in browm lumps like people but in long white squirts. Penguins do the same, and because at times penguins stand around a lot you can easily tell where one has been standing because there is a big fan of long white squirts on the ground, usually all around a muddy patch where its feet were. Good fun. If that’s all too scatological, Jez, holler and I’ll tone it down.

And if anyone else want’s to know why we can’t sail in a straight line, it’s cos I had to invent a bedtime story. So there!

Can’t believe it but the wind seems to be dropping out. Definitely not in the guide book. We’re poled out with the cutdown and the 5 expecting 30+ and its sunny, gently wafting breeze, clear blue sky. Probably not for long, as we’ve learned.

Local time Trafalgar day rum about to happen. We called RANSA on the batphone to wish them a good party and to say thanks for their generosity – sorry guys, I don’t know who I spoke to because it was an awful connection but it was nice to be able to say G’day to youse all. Also Don P, but you were out.

From Liz F. Yachtmaster

I ‘m not in the habit of communicating with guys I’ve never met but as you rightly stated you need to know if you’re efforts are hitting the right spot. Well I’m impressed, Yachting MonthlyMagazine published in the UK ran an interesting article on you, how they kept you still long enough to get a story I don’t know. I’ve only been in sailing a few years but I get a thrill from reading about real life experiences, the more hairy the better. So far my worst nightmare has been trying to pee in a force 7 off Harwich Harbour East coast UK, when the seat broke off and my head bounced against the door I remember thinking what a struggle it must be to survive a passage in the Southern Ocean, at least I get to come home and have a hot bath.

Thank you for your web site I shall keep an eye on it.

Liz – flying loo seats are indeed a health hazard. I’ve often wondered how it might be possible to make life easier for women in boats and I thought that the women who fly in the Space Shuttle probably have special seat gadgetry attached, of course to some sort of suction – but the basic gadgetry might be adaptable to a marine toilet. Drum roll for some dreadful puns about certain boat fittings with very male specific names…. Anyway, I’ll ask the question, if the answer isn’t already on the NASA website. Mal??

1-25. Blowing a (super) gale

Oct 22, 2005 – 0400hrs UTC

By Alex on October 22, 2005, at 0400 UTC

Topic(s): AIS

0400hrs 22 Oct 2005 UTC 39’39”S 014’11”E Ref 469

We’re struggling on a bit here. Back to NW 35 kts, huge following sea, storm jib only and only making SE. Should back to W later today. Bloody uncomfortable, noisy, jerky and unpleasant. It has just started to rain – another cold, bleak dawn No wonder the old sailors called this the Cape of Storms. Will we never get past Africa? We’re in warm water – 16 degrees – so must be the Agulhas current mixing with the S. Atlantic.

Malcom – tis is a big empty ocean. As far as I know, we have ‘seen’ only two ships since the Cape Verdes on AIS and we never actually saw them visually. AIS works from a vhf signal transmitted on Ch 70 – mandatory for all vessels over 300 dwt. We have a vhf aerial dedicated to it about a metre and a half above the water on the pushpit and the range would be line of sight to that aerial, so depends a bit on the transmitting aerial but not likely to be more than about 20 miles max. In the English Channel, the screen was cluttered with ships. The software tracks them and gives essential safety info – CPA etc – as well as mmsi and destination, ships name, course, speed etc if transmitted. We don’t transmit, just listen, but we can send DSC messages after receiving a hit – either general or specifically to the mmsi number to wake them up – we hope!

Jennifer, good to have you back, Tim, watch those vapours! Bill W, hope you had a good party, Maureen and Ralph – we look forward to meeting you.

1-25. Blowing a (super) gale

Oct 22, 2005 - 0530hrs UTC

By Alex on October 22, 2005, at 0530 UTC

Topic(s): Heavy weather sailing, Waves

0530hrs 22 Oct 2005 UTC 39’40”S 014’18”E Ref 470

It has been said – I think – that when a person dies, a library is lost. Underlying a lot of these idle ruminations – with apologies to the goat – is a desire to trawl through the library and perhaps trail some of the odder or more interesting bits before all y’all as a very non-captive audience. Without wishing to be too pretentious and without any expectations, I’d like to leave some of it as the seeds in your minds – to teach, to surprise, perhaps to annoy, maybe disgust and I hope, always to stimulate. I know Pete feels the same way and his journal does it with a lot more humour than I can, as I hope you will all see eventually.

So to receive the sort of feedback we’ve just had from Mark makes the sun shine on the bleakest of days. Like today. Thanks Mark, for taking the time to put it all down and I’m beyond belief delighted that you actually went looking for Kathleen Ferrier and, having found the record, were moved by it in the same way as I have always been. And to all of you who have hung in there for the journey, thanks as well – it is just possible that you are, by not voting with your feet (fingers?), telling us that some part of the message works for you. Or, perhaps, it’s just morbid curiosity. But you’re out there and I’m moved to write – it’s the immediacy of the experience that grabs me – an idle thought transcribed and on its way so easily – something I just can’t do in longhand. Well, easily except for the exigencies of the bloody USB thingy. I get about three crashes for ever five connects. Tedious.

This is very difficult to write. Berri is rising and falling about 20 feet over each ordinary wave and much more over the bigger ones, with the underlying swell making the whole world gyrate and tilt and roll and slew and crash. I am sort of wedged at the nav table, knees locked underneath, but my backside describes a semicircle around the seat with my knees as the pivot and my shoulders often trying to go the opposite way. My wrists are – as much as possible, the reference points, held tightly so the flesh welts against the fiddle on the nav table with fingers sometimes within range of the keys. In a fairground, you’d pay for this and probably hate it. What can I say?

Before I climbed up here, I spent a contemplative hour, midst the howl and crash and niagara noises, real green water rushing past the windows and the storm jib’s quivering, sitting on the cabin floor, back to nav table, feet braced across the boat against the locker under the sink. I had a mug of coffee and went carefully through the dunking ritual (it’s been a four biscuit morning) and, perhaps for the first time, wished I wasn’t here. There’s going to be a lot more of this in the next two months and I’m getting a bit weary, I think. But the old farts will persist, persevere, push on and overcome. Dr Cooper will soothe the savage breast in due course. Sir Malcolm Sargent thought it was music that did that and said so one year at the Proms. He didn’t know the half of it!

1-25. Blowing a (super) gale

Oct 22, 2005 – 0835hrs UTC

By Alex on October 22, 2005, at 0835 UTC

0835hrs 22 Oct 2005 UTC 39’40”S 014’33”E Ref 471

back to 65+ knots. whole boat shuddering and shaking. wind at shriek level. halyardsLines to hoist the sails vibrating like machine guns in gusts. pete wedged in the bogBrolga Owners Group, i’m making cajun spice potato cakes. trying to pull in a grib as well – continuous bloody crashes. spbf. fix in an hour. 5 crashes in a row – basically unable to transmit on hf. no sailmail, no grib. bugger. satcom cranking up again.

250 to the barn door if we can keep it together. all a bit tense.

going through the spice drawer for potato cake stuff – found a cat hair – hallo cascade.

1-25. Blowing a (super) gale

Oct 22, 2005 – 0920hrs UTC

By Alex on October 22, 2005, at 0920 UTC

0920hrs 22 Oct 2005 UTC 39’39”S 014’36”E Ref 472

db: dmgDistance Made Good; More here 114, gps 106 (crashes) day’s run 101 – all looks a bit fishy. 63/47 – also looking a bit pear shaped. these storms were not in the equation. short burst of unshine – wind temporarily back to 30+. managed to get the grib – three more days of this followed by a high cell. unpleasant prospect. surface of sea has huge moving white patches, massive wind lines, horizontal spray all glistening tn the sunlight. consultaation was very welcome this morning. wendy p, we’re saving your specials – cape agulhas, half way across, cape leeuwin, se cape, iron pot. will report. waves shorter and steeper than cape horn – not as high – more savage and destructive, if that’s possible.

1-25. Blowing a (super) gale

“Extreme adversity promotes an extraordinary intensity of living”

By Alex on October 22, 2005, at 1340 UTC

1340hrs 22 Oct 2005 UTC 39’32”S 014’58”E Ref 473

Ed: most messages from Berri are prefixed with some instructions / requests / advice / or just “not for publication” gnashing of teeth. The majority is for publishing, as in “for public consumption”, but not all. For example, this one came with:
Steve, i think i can go on working it at very low fx which don’t yet seem to crash the usb., so i might get connected late in the (local) day and early in the morning and i will pick up what i can. might improve after these storms have gone.

… and then we are back to into “update mode”:
vera brittain writes vividly about how extreme adversity promotes an extraordinary intensity of living. it would be crass to compare situations – she was in field hospitals witrhin range of the guns – but i know exactly what she means. we’ve had a constant 45+ ihitting 65 for about 24 hours – te seas are now massive, white, seething masses of roiling crashing water – berri rides most of it but we sometimes ger a broadside hat bodily lifts the boat and slams us against the next wave. very frightening – lucky the freckles are so well polished – the amount of clenching going on at the moment would severely damage a scruffy one. and we have at least another three days of it, during which the seas will increase and the freckles will no doubt continue their exercises. it is awful ust to have to sit it out and take whatever hits us – not an unfamiliar situation but never pleasant. so be prepared for a constant whinge from down here. if it stops, we’re in trouble..

the font in this satcom application is tiny and half thetime i cant read what i’ve written because the boat is moving so violently so ally’all will have to interpret some of the spelling mistakes. sorry

my potato cakes were a disaster – turned out not to set properly and ended up as brown mashed potato. will try next time without oil or egg and see it that works. the sky seems to be closing in – its getting very dark out there – what will it bring. huge crash, bow lifted round about 60 degrees. wish i was an engineer and understood something about impulse loads on boats. mostly the rig isnt stressed – onle when we get slammed and iy wats to keep going. another one – and heavy rain and 70+ gust. barometer has dropped slightly. almost constantly under water – hope it olds together. heavy driving rain – vis down to yards – perhaps this is one of the fronts. there are apparently several lows around us – out of the frying pan…. suddenly it stops 40 kts only – bliss for a few moments. will keep these short and keep sending more frequently that via sailmail. luxury and hang the expense..

trying to claw north as fer as we are able. ain’t no place for wimps down here.

1-25. Blowing a (super) gale

Oct 22, 2005 – 1600hrs UTC

By Alex on October 22, 2005, at 1600 UTC

1600hrs 22 Oct 2005 UTC 39’21”S 015’03”E Ref 474

it has eased for a bit – a gentle 40 + knots – and the sun is out, low in the sky with a hard metallic light – intense blue grey sea with 100 metre seething milky trails roaring off behind the huge breaking waves. when we get caught in one, berri starts almost underwater, shakes erself off and rolls back down the frothy streak – the sound is quite different from the normal crash – more a fierce hissing bubblung surge. the sun shines through the breaking crests giving brilliant radiance – diamonds on a velvet cushion – except they are moving at about 20 knots and have enormous power. still quite violent movement but tolerable. moreto come though. we are able to climb north for a bit, so may make life easier. i think dec 11 @ se cape is now a folorn hope but we’ll keep trying.

at the very height of the storm, in the worst gusts, a solitary albatross hovered over the stern riding the fury, wingtips twitching to keep station. wonderful sight.

1-25. Blowing a (super) gale

Oct 23, 2005 - 0615hrs UTC

By Alex on October 23, 2005, at 0615 UTC

0615hrs 23 Oct 2005 UTC 38’39”S 015’52”E Ref 475

After the storm – there’s a calm peacefulness about 35 knots, flat early sunlight, metallic grey blue sky, smaller warehousesWaves the size of warehouses rolling in from behind and, eerily, at right angles from the side (I’ve just seen two breaking crests creaming in towards us – one from the west and one from the north and the point where they meet a steep pyramid of foamy power). Don’t know whether this is a lull or we’ve climbed over the worst of it. Anyway, we are looking at the barn door again a bit under 200 miles ahead. We have a sort of horizon on each side but the warehousesWaves the size of warehouses behind have their own moving sawtoothed breaking presence that is never low enough to form a horizon.

I remember sitting in the cockpit yesterday in the midst of the uproar and chaos – stomach knotted with that sort of mild foreboding – not fear – that is always corroding the vitals but revelling in the majesty and indifference of the seething blasting masses of water and wind. The storm jib was set on a one metre strop, so the solid water was going underneath most of the time but the almost solid spray was hitting the orange sail all the way up and cascading down off it and blowing horizontally away under the foot and around the leech. Marvellous – the sail was glistening even in the gery gloom and broke into triumphant sparkling glory when the sun came out for a few seconds in a gap in the scud. Football fields of white water undulating back from the breaking crests as the waves passed under us. And noise – you always remember the noise – a roaring shriek with spray buffeting the back of my hood and the hissing surge of tons of water smashing past and over the cockpit. HalyardsLines to hoist the sails banging and whirring, Kevvo’s vane horizontal, quivering and shaking.and the continuous thump of the hull throwing aside vast masses of water into sheets of spray – the upwind sheet moving sideways, upwards and instantly curving back across the boat as the wind reached it.

And I remembered the single hander who was lost recently down here in one of these and was sad and the knotted foreboding felt like dread – but the spectacle was so vividly alive and enveloping that in the end it doesn’t frighten. And there was the albatross – serene in 60+ knots, – head to wind, looking down at me and laughing a lot.

It’s a lot scarier at night though.

1-25. Blowing a (super) gale

Oct 23, 2005 – 0900hrs UTC

By Alex on October 23, 2005, at 0900 UTC

0900hrs 23 Oct 2005 UTC 38’38”S 016’13”E Ref 476

db: dmgDistance Made Good; More here 13, day’s run 94, gps 114, 64/46

the schedule is beginning to thicken at the hips – i reckon we are now about a week behind. generator persists in adding some charge but getting noisier. will persevere with sailmail, but i think may be constrained to lowest frequencies so only connect at local evening + dawn. usb now closes down every time i transmit on anything higher than 10 megs. have just received satcom mailcall from steve indicating satcom still working – small panic during the night when i thought it had died as well.

sparkling day some low cloud, 30+ knots and remains of huge swell – no longer threatening but retains lots of attitude. we are occasionally surfing down the front of it with the 5 + storm jib. slewing massively from side to side, magnified here at the nav table towards the stern – very hard to stay put. typing this in sailmail so can see font, will transfer to satcom if cannot transmit. cockpit a mess at daybreak with tangled lines, crash pump awry, stowed gear displaced. there were some big ones sloshing into it during the worst part of the storm – how long has it lasted – seems we’ve been in it for days but perhaps not. kevvo magnificent.

now – big wave has just crashed across – deluge thro taped up vent over sink, they hit with an awful bang and surge and the boat heels way over. great powers fo recovery, so far. will send.

1-25. Blowing a (super) gale

Oct 23, 2005 – 1400hrs UTC

By Alex on October 23, 2005, at 1400 UTC

Topic(s): Knockdown

1400hrs 23 Oct 2005 UTC 38’49”S 016’29”E Ref 477

Ed: a satphone call at 1am Sydney time (1300UTC) to tell us that they had been knocked down twice, computer has flown across the boat, with bits flying everywhere, so comms severely limited. As you can see, the comms have beenre-established… but still pretty ordinary out there…

just had 3rd knockdown – 7-0 -80 kty sea white vmast hi waves viciuos breaks from al directions lost glasses cant see kwbd – 4th kdown/ will just have to sit it out.. unfunny. love y’all.

1-25. Blowing a (super) gale

Oct 24, 2005 – 0500hrs UTC

By Alex on October 24, 2005, at 0500 UTC

0500hrs 24 Oct 2005 UTC 38’16”S 016’46”E Ref 478

We Are Not Amused. Full story later if this eventually blows thro. We’re still ok, minor damage. Running engin to charge. Will ring satphone approx 0900 utc for any meaasges – if poss long range forecast ta. Bloody long night – everything soaked with condensation – didn’t have time in fmth to replace insulation. diff to keep computer dry. Satcop iffy, but will trty to keep turned on -pse send to both tfn‘till further notice’. still huge waves, nasty breaks. Love yez all.

Ed: 20 mins later….

Will try quick blast while can. You’ll have to interpolate aound keyboard mistakes – good glasses still missing, also one sandal – how can you lose a sandal?? First knockdown was serious – threw me through leecloth (lesson 1 – not srong enuf) across boat in welter of gear- boat a shambles but all small stuff except big heavy draAWER UNDER NAV TABLE LIFTS IF BOAT ROLOLED TO STBD AND launches. Pete ok, laptop went flying in later knockdown little darling still running! Every wave potentially lethal thro night – much anal clenching. Have stitched together a bunk using spectra, cable ties and blind faith and should be ok – just had big crash – photos if poaa later. Having berri brekky bacon sand in ryvita and Doctor to lubricate passage. bare polingExplanation here @ 3 kt NE

Schedule almost certainly stuffed – damn – will keep driving as wxShort for ‘weather’ imporves. May try to stay further N so Malcom, poss of contact(did i say that??)

Went around deck this am at dawn – moved banging halyardsLines to hoist the sails, put more knitting on main – has big tear v low down near gooseneck – not showstopper. Evidence of massive wave dumping onto cockpit – mob sling stove in etc – engine recalcitrant – bled and managed to start – battery charged – cant make water on this tack in these conditions to do with geometry of seacocks etc. (lesson 2)

Waiting for seas to abate – maybe! – then will try to sail. Birds stillall around – image of albatross in storm still vivid.

still gusting 50 – last grib 3 days old indicates calm patch in hi tomoz then another storm. Will keep trying to get north.

1-25. Blowing a (super) gale

Oct 24, 2005 – 0845hrs UTC

By Alex on October 24, 2005, at 0845 UTC

0845hrs 24 Oct 2005 UTC 38’11”S 016’55”E Ref 479

Ed: a satphone call from Alex Still crappy, heading 080 magnetic at 3knts bare polingExplanation here. The inside of Berri is as wet as the outside – condensation threatening the various electronics. Not fun any more, so time to go home. Now. Still blowing 50 and no sign of abating. Albie still laughing at us.

1-25. Blowing a (super) gale

Oct 24, 2005 - 0946hrs UTC

By Alex on October 24, 2005, at 0946 UTC

0946hrs 24 Oct 2005 UTC 38’09”S 016’59”E Ref 480

will someone please tell the examiner that enough is enough. she is still dishing out a steady 50 kts, gusting 70 – truly alpine waves, marching endlessly and relentlessly past. not much fun – but we’re coping. thanks to all who have written lovely to have your support in this little mess just been catapulted sideways whole boat shuddering wind intermediate shriek, scream back to howl. still cant read this font – still cant find good glasses using pair of plastic fantastics.

From Chris P.

Your updates over the last couple of days have made sensational reading. The descriptions of the wind and waves and how Berri was coping were making me clench like mad, so goodness only knows what it must be like for you in the middle of it. Yours is truly an epic voyage – one that will go down in the annals of seafaring (hope I got the spelling right there!).

While agreeing with you about Kathleen Ferrier and BTWS for deep impact, I would also nominate R Strauss’s ‘Four Last Songs’ as being its equal – but only if sung by Elizabeth Schwartzkopf – closely followed by parts of Mahler’s Second. Then again, Miles Davis, Thelonius Monk and Billie Holiday can be pretty profound as well.

With you in spirit

chris – p, not n, yay – mr monk in particular. chris n nice to hear from u too.

cant sit here for too long – have to keep fighting the condensation. i think we may get a bit of a break tomoz but bloody usb wont let me transmit to get grib so no wxShort for ‘weather’ worth speaking about. s african cape east forecast twaddles on about 25 knots pih, i say. and tush. wot a lot of codswallop.

1-25. Blowing a (super) gale

Oct 24, 2005 – 1040hrs UTC

By Alex on October 24, 2005, at 1040 UTC

1040hrs 24 Oct 2005 UTC 38’07”S 017’01”E Ref 481

all y’all will no doubt find this silly but the tears are streaming down my cheeks as i write. set out to backtrack the fix and discovered that my merlinMerlin calculator calculator was part of yesterdays detritus must have come out of its plastic bag mid flight across the boat and into the awful heap of sludge that it always created by bad knockdowns.

my lovely old friend, a present from h + k + e for christmas all those years ago and cherished through numerous hobarts and it’s dead. corpsed. a thoroughly ex-calculator. i am devastated. no numbers for today, in remembrance.

did find my glasses in the same heap of grot and bilge water and burst teabags so some tiny compensation.

oh poooo. there is no real compensation. sniffle. lizzie – or joe – or harvey – please may i borrow your bear?.

as a result, have spent the last hour taking apart and reassembling starboard qberth where ready use stores are kept. disaster area – mainly because of burst bags of teabags mixed with bilge water and other nasties. amazing what else you find.as well – mostly unrecognisable. still no let up – 60 kt gust, crashing wave next to my face, water slashing across the decks. daren’t try to film it – far too much flying water – really sad because it is absolutely magnificent as a spectacle – just bloody frightening when it really gets aggro. waves brilliant jade green-blue sparkling translucent – stunningly beautiful as they rear up to crash down on us – or just dirty grey if the sun has gone. at night, massive solid dark shapes tinged with white, sometimes flecks of phosphorescence – rearing up blotting the stars and moon. then the awful crash and shudder of solid cascading water.

1-25. Blowing a (super) gale

Oct 24, 2005 – 1400hrs UTC

By Alex on October 24, 2005, at 1400 UTC

1400hrs 24 Oct 2005 UTC 38’00”S 017’11”E Ref 482

070m @ 3.5kt

hi k ta hi is hi jeanne pete asleep.

this getting worse. steady 60 blasting seas. series of driving rainsqualls. ‘maybe short lull in hi in next day or so, then the next one looks wrse than this one. perbloodyserverence. is all we got. and some gin. love yez

1-26. Through the Barn Door

Oct 25, 2005 - 0330hrs UTC

By Alex on October 25, 2005, at 0330 UTC

0330hrs 25 Oct 2005 UTC 37’35”S 017’26”E Ref 483

The great unclench! Polished freckles relaxing all over the place. The wind started to ease late yesterday – from a rumbustuous 50 – 60 down to a lullaby 40 or so and we both hit the sack and slept. Woken around midnight by Pete with cup of soup and thoughts of adding some sail to the equation. I went thro the party gearFull wet weather gear ritual and out into the cold starry dark – the glow had colour rather like ice seen by distant candle light – Orion majestic, Mars just below, the pointers and the Cross blazing away to the south and a band of solid black cloud to the east and formless gloom in the west. Ran the sheets and decided to wait a bit before setting any sail – swell still huge and some gusts with bite. Went forward to tidy the halyardsLines to hoist the sails, spread fanwise around the foredeck to stop them banging on the mast in the storm, repacked the two storm jibs and rearranged the sails up front, closed the hatch and leaned back against the coachroof – the moon had risen from behind the wall of cloud and was golden behind some fluffy wisps – sorry to keep harping on about Turner but you’ve got to be here to appreciate just how good he was. Still very big swell and the moon’s reflection coming back to me on several planes and sometimes disappearing altogether behind a black mass of water.

Back in the cockpit, tightening Kevvo’s counter weight – looked up to see mountain of water with seething top way up above my right shoulder. Instant cringe and brace behind pushpit, as low as possible and hanging on with eyebrows and toes – and dear old Berri just serenely lifted her backside, tucked the thing under her and left just a minor frothfest to wet my boots. Amazing what a boat can tolerate – and sometimes make a complete mess of as well.

We are waiting until daylight and we will set some sail – probably 4 & 5 on poles and head NE. I know that’s not according to the Admiralty and Hoyle, but they ain’t here in this stuff. North gets us above the worst of the next one and we’ll sort it from there.

From Martin

I just saw Alex’s latest re his poor MerlinMerlin calculator – poor lad. I almost broke down reading about it.

I have an old MerlinMerlin calculator (bought it in 1986 from Jo Birch in Devon), which he is most welcome to have if he would like it. Only trouble is, I forgot I had it, and it was sitting in the cupboard for some years, and the batteries died a while back, so it will need to be re-programmed with the nav program which is in the back of the instruction manual. I do have the instruction manual and all the other data that came with it. If they would like it, I will put it in the post, no worries, and it can wait for them in Sydney. I would be so glad to find a good home for it.

Then they will still have one for future endeavours. Altho I guess you have probably had offers flooding in from other folk with Merlins…..I really felt for them yesterday, re the log reports mentioning 80 knots – not nice at all. That is most unfair, especially at only 38S.

I do hope the weather has improved – and will keep fingers crossed that they will still be able to get home in time, if not by the 11th, then at least in time for C’mas.

Martin – deeply grateful for kind offer of old MerlinMerlin calculator – would love to give it a good home if you have really finished with it. Does it still have its program in memory? We never managed to contact Juri – the propagation here is r/s and we can’t even talk to Cape Town radio. Glad hes doing better.

Steve- won’t waste satphone time this morning utc – as long as I can get this away – all ok and we seem to be ready to move on.

1-26. Through the Barn Door

Oct 25, 2005 - 0630hrs UTC

By Alex on October 25, 2005, at 0630 UTC

0630hrs 25 Oct 2005 UTC 37’27”S 017’38”E Ref 484

From Barry Duncan

You mention space toilet development. NASA spent over $23 million on developing their vacuum toilet. Useful anywhere gravity cannot be relied on. You can suck it uphill and also reduce water consumption. Possibly as a spin off, vacuum toilets are now used in trains, boats planes and prisons as well as in space. You do need a reliable power source otherwise you will get your own back.

From Malcom Robinson

They’re a bit short on detail on the web site but, in relation to your query about the ISSInternational Space Station toilet arrangements, this is what it says: “”We have to have active components to help remove the feces and urine away from the astronaut. The two machines that separately handle these two body functions both use air flow created by suction to facilitate waste removal””. Have a good think about *that* next time you reach for the pee bucket

Now that the Great Unclench ’05 has occurred and normal functions can resume, Mal and Barry, thanks for NASA bodily waste removal information. It seems $23M well spent! I have written to the man with first hand – or at least, first freckle – experience and I hope he will be kind enough to ask around his colleagues and send us the bumf.

Rob M – and every one else who has written recently – Potter, Hugh, Mark, Malcom and many others – thanks for your notes – sorry not to acknowledge – been a bit hectic.

Am just realising just how weary I am – A long year combined with a week or so of tension and a bloke really needs the DoctorGuinness. Wendy, we are approaching your first milestone – 20E and Cape Agulhas and the Indian Ocean are about a day and a half away if we can keep sailing. Interesting evidence out there of just how much water has dumped over the decks – some of it quite subtle, like the bit of very grippy sticky tape I had covering a small hole in a mushroom vent – gone completely – would have taken significant scraping to remove it manually.

Now have to start drying out – ran the engine for an hour this morning and my woolly sox are now cooking quietly on top of it as it cools. Will be nice to have them dry again.

Where to from here? Dunno – I think that both a 5 Cape Circumnavigation as well as making the start line is now beyond us, sadly. Too much time wasted around here and we’re not yet out of the unpleasantness. Priority will probably be the start line but we’ll see – may not even make that, so there’s always the New Year’s Eve party.

Pete has just handed me a pot of lovely foaming Medicinal Compound. Berri still rolling like crazy – the waves come in patterns and really chuck us around sometimes.

1-26. Through the Barn Door

Oct 25, 2005 - 1043hrs UTC │Confucius and Lieh-Tzu: The Tao of Berri

By Alex and Peter on October 25, 2005, at 1043 UTC

Topic(s): Confucius, Knockdown

1043hrs 25 Oct 2005 UTC 37’12”S 017’57”E Ref 485

DB: dmgDistance Made Good; More here 79,(V fishy!)5891 SEC gps 72 66/44.
Steve – sailmail spotty but getting some connects – perhaps you could send all by sailmail tfn‘till further notice’, then check it daily and anything I haven’t managed to collect after say 24 hours, send satcom or just drop if necessary – saves a bit of money. Also, could you please post Chris Nailer’s quotation from the Analects – I love it. Might inspire someone else to do a bit of reading.

Ed: as requested….
Here’s what Lieh-Tzu says about it all:

“Confucius was looking at Lu-liang waterfall. The water dropped two hundred feet, streaming foam for thirty miles; it was a place where fish and turtles and crocodiles could not swim, but he saw a man swimming there. Taking him for someone in difficulties, he sent a disciple along the bank to pull him up. But after swimming a few hundred yards the man came out, and strolled along singing under the bank with his hair hanging down his back.

Confucius proceeded to question him:

— ‘I thought you were a ghost, but now I can look you over I see you are human. May I ask whether you have a Way to tread in water?’

— ‘No, I have no Way. I began in what is native to me, grew up in what is natural to me, matured by trusting destiny. I enter the vortex with the inflow and leave with the outflow, follow the Way of the water instead of imposing a course of my own; this is how I tread it.’

— ‘What do you mean “beginning in what is native to you, growing up in what is natural to you, maturing by trusting destiny?”‘

—’Having been born on land I am safe on land – this is native to me. Having grown up in the water I am safe in the water – this is natural to me. I do it without knowing how I do it – this is trusting destiny.’

Sailing again, directly below the centre of the high. Sunshine and sparkles. We’re taking a punt and going east – seems to me that’s more sensible than playing to something behind us that may not happen. More evidence of water mass over the deck: the liferaft is double lashed to 3 strongpoints – You do learn from experience occasionally! – it has moved and is loose to the extent that an errant sail tie from the main has got between the canister and the base – and come out the other side! Now fixed.

My little free fall across the boat – I found my sandal in a spot it could only have got to if the boat rolled past about 120 degrees. This fits with the other evidence – I think (and felt) that I was tossed upwards over the leecloth pole into two vertical lines supporting the pole from the grab rail. This tore the leecloth from the screws and washers holding it down and I continued across the boat, still going up, and hit the coachroof at the angle at the top of the window and then fell vertically into Pete’s bunk as the boat righted itself. Fun. Bunk now consists of a wrap around cocoon of spectra – will be ok as long as the shelf side that anchors it can hold my weight in another knockdown. I think t can, but we aren’t going to have any more.

A small quote from Bernie – I don’t think he will mind:

“They’ve shown you don’t need a new mega yacht or a big boat to do this stuff. It’s more about your own abilities and tenacity than big toys and a big budget.
Go guys!”

Right on, mate – that’s precisely the message and all the best with the RBI and AZAB – might see you there! And thanks for your donation. Rob, happy new boat and the Scillys is a great place to aim for. Then the world! Johno and Diana and all the PB’s – yeah and G’day!

Ed: from Pete (yep, he is out there too!)…
Hi to everyone out there, I have been quiet lately as transmission of my blathering is a problem but I think the time has come for me to relieve some frustration via the email.

I’m now just a wee bit pissed off with this weather. I just checked my log and today is the ninth day in a row of us having to sail with some form of storm gear up. We just seem to be getting a parade of fast and tough lows coming through from the west occasionally they are separated by a fart sized high which gives us clear skies and 25 kts for perhaps half a day, during which time we can get outside and get some fresh air to the body. Yesterday we ran under storm jib most of the day but later the wind eased and changed direction so we poled out the no.5 to port and poled the storm jib to starboard and headed a bit east of north trying to get away from the stronger winds to the south. This worked well but we still had very big seas which occasionally crashed onto the side of the boat…..Those five dots represent a period of 41 hours.

I had just written “boat” when the first knockdown happened, it was like an instant flip one second vertical the next horizontal. When it hit I was flung to starboard but got a leg out in time to stop me crashing into the galley. I also managed to keep hold of the computer which took a flying leap. I saw all of Alex’s gear which was stored on the port side beside the nav table flying past my head. A large drawer which is about two foot long and full of heavy things like spare batteries numerous rolls of duct tape etc launched itself from under the nav table and crashed into the front of the galley.

If someone was there it would have broken a leg. Alex ended up in my bunk, he must have broken through the bottom of the lee cloth and dropped vertically to my bunk when the boat went horizontal. We cleared the debris and rescued what we could then another knockdown, two more followed. We had to get the storm jib down so on with the party gearFull wet weather gear and after waiting for a lull I ran forward to the bow and Alex worked the cockpit. Clipped the harness on forward, pulled the sail down unclipped the halyard, removed, the hanks, undid the sheets, quickly rolled up the sail and stuffed it down the forward hatch.

It all took perhaps 2 to 3 minutes at no time did I look back at the waves, if you do you seem to get mesmerised by them and you lose the rhythm of your task. Now back in the cockpit Alex had tightened the halyard and retrieved the sheets, we then had a quick tidy up of the cockpit then back down. No more knockdowns after that but some waves went close, I just can’t imagine how many tons of water Berri rolled off her back that night.

After that incident I was more than pissed off I was quite shitty with the examiner. I was due to talk about “cabin fever” a malaise that gets you after you have been cooped up inside in these sort of conditions. There is no cure for the fever the Good Doctor doesn’t work as the required dosage could cause problems, one just has to wait it out and relief comes when the wind drops and normal sailing resumes. When cooped inside in bad weather most enjoyable things are impossible, a good book is useless as you can’t concentrate long enough. You just have to sit or lie wedged in to stop all movement.

There are physical responses to this of course, yesterday morning I woke with an aching jaw, my teeth have been ground down to mere stumps of their former selves. My stomach muscles have improved out of sight, if these lengths of sprung steel could wrap themselves around a barbell I’m sure they could now bench press at least 200 pounds. Further down the muscles controlling the sphincter have now achieved a grip capable of throttling a Texas size boa constrictor but I don’t think I should go on any more with that analogy. So now things have improved but not for long as the grib forecast says more of the same in a couple
of days. So till the next time I intend to enjoy myself while I can. Cheers…..Pete.

1-26. Through the Barn Door

Oct 25, 2005 – 2200hrs UTC

By Alex on October 25, 2005, at 2200 UTC

Topic(s): Bread making, Liferaft

2200hrs 25 Oct 2005 UTC 37’05”S 018’36”E Ref 486

That’s one spectacularly inventive Examiner we’ve been allocated. She certainly stimulates the reflexes – we are now hove to, not in a gale but in a pretend zephyr that is just enough to keep the headsail backed in a very sloppy and confused bit of ocean. Quite impossible to sail – Berri rolls and gyrates so much in the slop that it’s futile even to try. So the barn door is still firmly closed 66 miles ahead of us and we ain’t a goin’ anywheres. Not yet anyway. From the blast furnace into the acid bath! The apology for a breeze is coming from the south and we are drifting south west at about 1.5 kts, so it seems we are in a 2 knot or so current from the north, perhaps the bottom end of the Agulhas current. The water temp is 16 degrees and earlier, the wave pattern was very much wind against tide with steep sided waves, all confused.

A warning. I set about fixing the liferaft lashings late yesterday. They consist of a set of webbing straps held down and locked with a big pelican clip and a second lashing of doubled up 6mm spectra over the top. I found that the pelican clip was undone and the raft was only attached to the boat by the spectra – very firmly attached so no problem but the pelican clip was something to think about. When we lost the first raft off Montevideo, we found the pelican clip undone as well and were puzzled by this. The clip is designed so that when locked and under pressure, friction holds the sliding locking ring in place. I can only assume that the force of water hitting the clip from the side is sufficient to shift the deliberately easy to slide locking ring up the shaft of the clip far enough to release it. In ordinary circumstances, I have always taped up the slider so that it was not inadvertently slipped by someone’s heel when reefing or whatever, but I thought this not sensible or necessary for this voyage. Be warned, anyone who relies just on the clip – if I am correct, then you really do need to tape up the slider if you expect serious greenies over the top and your raft is as exposed as Berrimilla’s is on the coachroof. Having taped it up, you need to have some way of releasing it quickly – perhaps a knife attached to it somehow.

I feel a bit like Bligh must have felt when he was cast off from the Bounty in the longboat. They were in sight of one of the Pacific islands, or at least very close, but it was directly upwind and Bligh knew he had no choice but to sail west in the general direction of Australia. We are about 200 miles south of Cape Town but it would be impossible to sail there in this breeze and probably very difficult in the strong NW’erly that, I think, is to follow. Bligh sailed, eventually, about 3500 miles to Kupang, and I’ve stood on the wharf where he probably landed. We will sail about 6000 miles to Oz, eventually, if the Examiner can’t find a way to prevent us. At which point, comparisons stop.

My request to borrow a consolatory bear yesterday when the MerlinMerlin calculator died has produced two – one from L, H & J, potentially renamed Bearymilla and the other from the Izzos – a Virtual Bear called Percy Vere. Thanks – I am as consoled as it is possible to be. I wonder if the originator of the MerlinMerlin calculator is still out at Strathfield in Sydney – I have his contact details with the instructions for mine and it would be nice to be able to get Martin’s semi comatose friend reprogrammed on-line instead of feeding in the program line by line from the keyboard.

I was stung by some extra snide and pointed remarks from Himself along the lines of ‘all we’ve got around here is dry biscuits’ so I made some bread yesterday. Timed it too – 2 hours for 8 slices of bread, but nice to have. I tried frying it and it works, so cutting down the baking time by at least an hour. The trick is to press a small ball of dough into the thinnest pancake possible and then drop it onto oil so hot that it has just started to smoke. As soon as the top starts to form bubbles – about 2 minutes – turn it over for a minute or so and remove. Uses a lot of oil and tastes a bit like naan without the spices but offers lots of opportunity for adding stuff.

Ed: later…

Ship approaching. First since C.Verdes maybe cos I was able to contact CTown radio yest.

Mostly becalmed

1-26. Through the Barn Door

Oct 26, 2005 – 0730hrs UTC │ Pink Albatross

By Alex on October 26, 2005, at 0730 UTC

Topic(s): Albatrosses

0730hrs 26 Oct 2005 UTC 37’16”S 018’37”E Ref 487

Lily the Pink, the Pink, the Pink, saviour of the human race with her medicinal compound – has anyone ever seen a pink Albatross? Well I have and completely without any help from Lily – just after sunrise this morning, all pink and orange and flame in a softly misty east, and we have a couple of small dark topped albatrosses wheeling around, together with the fifty or so big black petrels. The Albatrosses were doing low passes and banking up and away just on our beam and – for an instant as they lifted, the sunrise was reflected off their white undersides so they were truly pink – magic. Worked for the petrels as well, but not so obvious against their black feathers. One of them had a drop of water on its beak and, again for an instant, there was a prismatic flash – rather like the hollywood gimmick that makes the good guy’s teeth flash for a moment. Wish I hadn’t thought of that!

We’ve spent all night going up and down to nowhere. Same again, I think for the rest of today, with a bit of promise for tomorrow. Still 66 miles to the barn door. We saw our first ship since the CV’s too – came up on the AIS in SoB @ about 16 miles. Big cargo ship, 185 mtrs, bound for Xiamen in China, called Thor Energy. I spoke to them – the Deck Officer sounded completely uninterested. But that’s about 5000 miles without seeing a ship – big empty ocean. Wouldn’t it be fun if the old Titan Uranus appeared over the horizon.

Today we finished the supply of bacon for breakfast – suitably washed down, wrapped in yesterday’s bread. Not bad – 66 days out from Falmouth.

1-26. Through the Barn Door

Oct 26, 2005 – 0900hrs UTC

By Alex on October 26, 2005, at 0900 UTC

0900hrs 26 Oct 2005 UTC 37’22”S 018’43”E Ref 488

DB: DMGDistance Made Good; More here 42, gps 73 67/43

Making slow progress again – heading SE with 50 miles to the barn door at about 3730 S. The chart shows some amazing seamounts under here – they rise almost vertically from the seabed at about 5000m up to 1500m – and all in a circle about 6 miles across. Old volcanic plugs perhaps? There are quite a lot of them, like huge stalagmites.

We are gradually getting the boat back in order. The generator seems to be close to the end – we examined it and there is a lot of movement in the bearings, especially the rear. We cant take it apart to fix it – the two halves are bonded together in an oven, we were told. And the storm damaged the solar panel array – not sure how it happened, but the back of the panel has been scratched at the edge of one of the discs and there is a green stain. This seems to be serious – but the panel is still working and is running the watermaker as I write. Pete has slaved away up in the forepeak and rearranged sails, stowed empty plastic bottles, retrieved food from the bins under the sails and rearranged the bins and packed them in with sails. He’s now resting the rest of the just.

Fenwick – please pass on our best wishes to the LHI fleet -keep your mobile on and we might try to give you a quick call if the weather permits.

From Colin B.

Hope all three of you are bearing up under the strain. Of little comfort to you, but several hats dipped to you, especially while you’re being pummelled, keep your chins up. A weeks good running and you could be back on schedule, will still try and organise a Brolga escort up to the Iron Pot if you can come this way!

God speed and my hopes for a fair wind for you.

Colin, Hobart looks doubtful on the way across – we are looking iffy even for the start from here. Hi Maggie and Ian, Martin, Steve W. – sorry cant be there just for the mo!

Just crossed 19E. Woohoo!

1-26. Through the Barn Door

Oct 26, 2005 - 1600hrs UTC

By Alex on October 26, 2005, at 1600 UTC

Topic(s): Jellyfish

1600hrs 26 Oct 2005 UTC 37’29”S 019’20”E Ref 489

Wild life, apart from two rather smelly humans includes a sea surface covered in millions of baby Portuguese Man o’ War from a couple of millimetres to about 5 cm. The turbine line gets their tendrils wrapped around it in thick clumps of blue stretchy stringy spiral jelly. We slowed down from our majestic 2 knots to put up the 2 and I looked down into the water and there is a layer, or so it seems, about half a metre down, of tiny iridescent blue sparkles just like chopped aluminium foil in millimetre slivers. They are, presumably, alive – perhaps a version of the old phosphorescence wizard, the dinoflagellate, but they don’t seem to have any form or shape.

We know that we will run out of tonic long before we finish the gin, so we are improvising. It seemed worth adding a drop or two of the old juniper to our alternate day’s mug of cider and, ladies and gents, permit me to introduce you to our latest Medical Consultant, the good Doctor Grumpy, of indeterminate gender but tasting very like slightly fizzy scrumpy. Certainly sufficiently medicinal to help us through the five o’clock Consultation. We can go for about 8 days on the stuff, so preserving the precious cramp cure for a future rendezvous. We are one hour and twenty minutes ahead of Greenwich here today and we calculate our timing very carefully so that we get our fix a little bit earlier every day. About 20 minutes to go until today’s libation. Hoooley Doooley. Wish we had Baez singing her juniper song – there but for fortune go you or go I…I wish!

Bright sunshine, early evening, warm breeze, hatches open, Berri drying out. Is, the red ribbon, sadly, left us in the storm but we still have the green one and the purple one from Arrival Day. The Examiner has taught us never to anticipate anything on this voyage but I can say for certain that we are 38 miles from the barn door and – right now – hitting a portly Bishop’s 4 knots at the double, cassock flying and crozier at the high port. The flea is rampant, folks. We are way further north than the plan, but the planning at least has taken care of that. I think we will ease south again once through the BD and finally in the Indian Ocean, pace the Examiner. At which point, we will consult Dr Wendy.

Then, I think, we will need the Infinite Improbability Drive if we are to get across in time. The schedule gives us 43 days to cover about 5800 miles to SE Cape by Dec 11 which works out at 135 miles a day. Tricky! It’s looking like Bass Strait and even then it will be a fine chance. At 120 miles/day we could just make Gabo in 49 days or about Dec 17 if we don’t have to call in at Albany. The pear is growing hips. We had no margin whatever when we set off and I think we just blew it. But we follow out Destiny. Marvin, where are you when we need you? I sense a Vortex out there somewhere.

Dr Grumpy has arrived. Noice.

1-26. Through the Barn Door

Oct 27, 2005 - 0421hrs UTC │Cape Agulhas Rounded

By Alex on October 27, 2005, at 0421 UTC

0421hrs 27 Oct 2005 UTC 37’43”S 020’00”E Ref 490

Reception ok – you could probably double up, but just watch to see what I collect. Power is likely to be the main problem from here. Have turned off satcom tfn‘till further notice’. I’m getting reasonable connects as we get closer and then -will it ever happen – past Africa. Half a mile to go…

Malcom – analysis spot on re Agulhas current. Ta.

From Chris -

BelmoreSydney School corresponding with Berri SouthSydney School corresponding with Berri Presentation Evening

If miracles happen, your’re invited, to present the awards for Leadership & Citizenship on the 14th December. If you can’t make it, I have to present them, on your behalf and I won’t be anywhere near as interesting. As you’ve probably gathered, ours is a very multicultural school, so our presentation evening is by no means the stuffy, boring affair that other schools have. It’s more like a party.

Alex, we’ll get the choir singing Blow the Wind Southerly and Peter, I know exactly what we’ll do for your theme music.

Forget about the Times and Y.M. We now have 2 bulletin boards devoted to you in the Library and even the Kinders know who you are. That is a measure of true fame.

I know it’s an impossible ask but I just wanted you to know we’re still thinking of you .

Take care and hang on.

Love,

Chris at BelmoreSydney School corresponding with Berri – Thanks for the huge honour – very sorry, but Dec 14 is out of the question without the Infinite Improbability Drive. Wot we ain’t got. Next term perhaps? Re the choir, being kids, I bet they find the fart in the song – it’s quite clear when Ferrier sings it and she had such a sense of humour that I bet she found it too.

300 metres to go…bloody current – we’re doing 6 through the water and 3.7 over the ground.

We’re over – finally! At 27/042130. Berrimilla is now in the Indian Ocean at 374312 S. WOOOOOHOOOO! Dr Wendy, one pace forward – March!

I’m now waiting until the sun gets up a bit further and I can set up the solar panel to drag it in and process it. The albatrossery once again fleetingly pink – bet you haven’t got any pink ones in the Bird Book, Peter!

From Kevin Fleming and Denise

hi Alex @ Pete You are in one, and have good the other. Stay safe keep kevo working at west end and hopefully things will improve eastward bound. We would love to kick in some $$$ for some good footage which would like to add to our new DVD. I have a brand new MerlinMerlin calculator still in original box (never been used) Alex it yours you have earnt it when you come home.

Kevin & Denise – there’s quite a bit of footage of Kevvo, altho it might be a bit difficult to extract – very hard to film in the really wild stuff but I’ll take a lot more from here. If your MerlinMerlin calculator still has its program, (which it has almost certainly lost) I’d love it please – I have been kindly offered another one that has definitely expired. Can’t believe you never used it!

1-26. Through the Barn Door

Oct 27, 2005 - 0900hrs UTC

By Alex on October 27, 2005, at 0900 UTC

Topic(s): Solar Panel

0900hrs 27 Oct 2005 UTC 37’43”S 020’15”E Ref 492

DB dmgDistance Made Good; More here 130 very fishy! And it seems the solar panel has died – we’re investigating. This could be the real showstopper – we’ve got just enough diesel to keep up the charge if we get very lucky. We’ll be down to 1 Tx/day, while the engine running, water making etc. Will advise later.

Ed: satphone call from Alex at 0930UTC

Yep, the solar panel has decided to die. Pete working on it. The junction box has leaked and a major diode has fried. End result is that we are down to a single update a day and only when the engine is running…. At least we are in the Indian Ocean now!

1-26. Through the Barn Door

Oct 27, 2005 - 1100hrs UTC

By Alex on October 27, 2005, at 1100 UTC

Topic(s): Solar Panel

1100hrs 27 Oct 2005 UTC 37’42”S 020’19”E Ref 493

Panic seems to be over but fingers toes eyebrows and eyes firmly crossed. Pete took the lid off the junction box on the solar panel and found the inside completely filled with green corrosion products – couldn’t see the wiring – some of the connectors to the diodes and the cables had collapsed and it was very much an ex panel. Big cleanup and he tested the output and found 12 and 18 volts, so we now have 18 volts direct to the regulator – no diodes – and it is putting in 4+ amps. Phew! The lad is now Consulting with Dr Wendy as a little reward for being a clever boy.

Memo for Marty and anyone else connecting one of these – the seal around the junction box seemed to be just bare plastic – a flange fitting into a groove. It needs to be coated with the very best marine sealant available and preferably after all he wiring has been heat shrunk or sealed with self annealing tape. Also, watch out for dissimilar metal screws attaching the box to the panel frame – gunk them up way past what seems reasonable. Ours rotted out a couple of months ago but, as there seemed to be no internal connection, we ignored them. Probably correctly, but you never know.

Pete 1, Examiner 0.

Noted in your log of early Oct that you’d had cause to use a rolling hitch and were singing its praises. Thought to self “”yes – must remind myself of that one”” and of course didn’t get around to it. Last Saturday sailed around Betsey Island and got the most magnificent override on the jib that I’ve ever seen – no way would it come out – and no way could I remember how to tie a rolling hitch Ended up putting a spare sheet on the jib and taking up on that. Since then I’ve been tying rolling hitches on everything :-/

Bottom line – thanks for the timely reminder and next time I’ll act on it! Our performance on Wildfire has been all over the shop. In anything up to about 12kts we do really well but over that we seem to lose the plot. They say that you learn quicker from your mistakes – in that case we’re learning very quickly indeed!

Glad that you’ve got a bit of respite guys – have been clenching in sympathy for a while – nice to be able to relax a bit!

Someone who shall be nameless but he’s just started to play with a nice new red boat has confessed to ignoring my harangue about rolling hitches a week or two ago. And regretting it – massive riding turn around the primary winch and couldn’t tie the hitch to release it. Avoided the knife by running a new sheet, which is fine if conditions allow and you have a spare sheet (some hot racers don’t want the extra weight!). But thanks for the confession – it gives me an opportunity to reinforce the message. He now ties his pyjama cord with a rolling hitch, just for practice. [ed: see Mal, we didn’t mention you at all!]

1-26. Through the Barn Door

Oct 27 2005 – 1615hrs UTC

By Alex on October 27, 2005, at 1615 UTC

Topic(s): Solar Panel

1615hrs 27 Oct 2005 UTC 37’39”S 020’48”E Ref 494

Doug has sent us some encouraging news – he plotted the voyage of Henry Knight’s ship the JAVA from Cape Town to Sydney and it took 49 days, mostly along 40 S with a dip to 43 at Kerguelen. That dip would have saved a day at least. They were becalmed off S. Australia and in Bass Strait. Seems we still have a fingernail on the wall – we will certainly go for it and we can decide about SE Cape when we see how things are going. Unlikely, I think, from here. We are running twin poled at 7 – 8 kts through the water and have been for most of the day – but only 5-6 over the ground. Encouraging sign perhaps is that the water has cooled from nearly 20 degrees to 18 – the good current in the south Indian Ocean is cold. The barometer is falling again and we are due for some more stink, but it doesn’t look as bad as the last one. We do need to get lucky and stay lucky from here.

I’d be interested to know whether I miscalculated our chances down here for this time of the year or whether we have just been unlucky. I expected we would average about 20 – 25 windspeed most of the way across along 38 – 40 S – and reasonable seas to allow us to sail at maximum speed. Anyone care to enlighten me? Is what we got over the last couple of weeks the normal pattern? I would have loved to have had a set of isochrones to play with.

I spoke to Fenwick just before the Lord Howe Island race briefing this morning – Was feeling left out – we haven’t missed one for about 7 years. Next year, perhaps.

On solar panels – and ours in particular – we have removed the diodes from the panel itself and we don’t know whether there are diodes in the regulator to stop the battery discharging through the panel – I do have the regulator handbook in the boat, but it’s fiendishly difficult to get at, so we are disconnecting the panel every time before we stow it for the night – just something else to remember. The panel was charging in sunlight at about 4 amps all day – brilliant – so as long as we get reasonable sunlight, I think that we will get across the lily pond talking to all y’all all the way. A half hour top up with the engine should keep us in wiggly amps for the duration. But I’m not making any predictions until we get there!

And if you happen to be a little goldfish and you like coloured lights, have we got a home with a view for you! It seems that we did dip the masthead during the first knockdown – I’ve completely forgotten when it was, if I ever knew – I was looking up at the windex today (the little swinging arrow at the masthead that points into wind) and it is clearly bent – looks as if from the downward thrust – so, if Dunedin is any guide, there will be a little puddle just big enough for a tiny goldfish in in the base of the masthead light. Million dollar views, no cats, no sharks – I can see the queue growing already. Anyone got a rich goldfish?

1-26. Through the Barn Door

Oct 28, 2005 - 0330hrs UTC

By Alex on October 28, 2005, at 0330 UTC

Topic(s): Bare poling

0330hrs 28 Oct 2005 UTC 37’50”S 021’32”E Ref 495

Here we go again! As expected, the nice 20 -30 westerly evolved into the usual 40 -50 stinker and, as usual, it hit us just at dusk. #2 and main off earlier as it deteriorated, to poled out 4 & 5 then as the first squall rolled in around 2100 (now yesterday) we climbed out into a screamer and dropped both of them and put everything away – after the last one, prudence, persistence, perseverance is the go. We’re bare poledExplanation here, now in a gusty 30 – 50 westerly with steepish but not threatening waves – so far anyway. We are ‘sailing’ ESE at 4.5 knots and seem to be out of the current. But it doesn’t stop – just had a 65 knot gust. Like the man in the waterfall, we’re following Destiny but I do wish, occasionally, that Destiny was a kinder path.

Mark L – I should have qualified my note to you – a litre is excessive only as long as you are sure the stern gland is working as it is supposed to and have ruled it out as the source. If it is one of the older stuffed ones, it could drip a litre easily, but if it does, it probably needs tightening or restuffing.

Now blowing a steady 50 and I just saw a flash at 70. That’s the problem with sitting here – I have the numbers directly in front of my face. It is due to abate over 24 hours or so but certainly has lots of attitude now. I think I’ll go to bed and let it howl!

That was at about 2200 yesterday. At 0330 today, it’s still blowing but may be abating a bit – still some nasty squalls but the lulls seem to be easier. One or two dumping waves but not too bad. Perhaps a couple of storm jibs in an hour or so when the sun is up.

Now 0500 – we went out and put up the storm jib, had a bit of a feel and took it down again and, once again we’re bare polingExplanation here at about 3+ knots to the SE. The boat handles the storm jib and the seas really easily for 98% of the time – but it’s the other 2% that contain the knockdown waves and the occasional one out of left field that Kevvo can’t hope to handle. And they generally seem to come with the gusts. As we pulled it down, we copped a rainsquall with a nice rainbow to the south and 55 – 60 knots just for us. Anyway, prudence reigns for the mo. Also means there’s too much nastiness to rig the solar panel, so we will need half an hour of engine later.

A word on bare polingExplanation here – there’s more on this elsewhere on the website – but for the newcomers and non sailors, there are three ‘last resort’ ways of handling potentially overwhelming conditions.

The first, which everyone has heard of, is to heave to. The boat is set up deliberately so that it lies beam-on to the wind and waves and it drifts sideways or very slightly forwards. To do this may require a small sail forward, set so that the wind hits the ‘wrong’ side of it – so that it is ‘backed’ and to have the helm lashed to leeward. It works fine until the waves get to be so big that they start to roll and break over the boat, by which time, you are somewhat committed. Been there and I really don’t like it!

The second method is to combine a heave to with a drogue, (a sort of water parachute on a long line) or that a drogue be streamed instead of heaving to to keep either the bow or stern into wind and waves. Both these are essentially passive methods. I have never tried a drogue, so can’t comment, but we tried streaming warps in the 1961 Fastnet storm and they helped to slow the boat and keep it stern to the waves. I don’t remember the detail of that night too well – it was a long time ago!

The third method is what we are doing now. It does require either an automatic steering system or someone to steer the boat. If the latter, then it is likely to be unpleasant and dangerous for whoever draws the short straw. Essentially, all sail is removed, everything that can be is stowed and the boat is steered so that the wind crosses it from behind the beam, and the pressure of the wind on the rig and the hull moves it forwards. This is an extreme form of sailing and I think it works far better that the heave to. It sets the boat up so that the waves hit it from the quarter and it runs diagonally down the face of each normal wave and usually wallows a bit on the backs. It gets to be very stimulating in Cape Horn sized waves and big winds, but if you are out there, what works best is what is likely to save your skin. As with every potentially dangerous situation, it is often the so-called freak wave that does the damage, coming from a different angle and amplifying or radically changing the wave pattern as it passes.
And there will always be situations where none of these work and you have to hope that your experience can cope. Each one of them will be different for different boats as well, but you cant really go out and practise in the real thing – just play around when things aren’t too critical and learn how your boat handles.
Enough!

Ed: Fenwick, a follow of the saga, sent this with a request to Alex to “push Steve to put it on the website”. Well, here it is:

Alex Pete,

Shirt in the Frame

We had an opening bid of $500 last night at the briefing, I have sent a photo to Mali.
and something to put on the web for any bids from the web page and arranged with Dal Wilson to pass on any bids we may get via sat phone donated by telstra for the race.
on another note when you called me erudite I now remember when I was doing my phd. my lecturer said something to me” erudite” and I thought the same as Pete, “Poffter bastard”
I now recall he explained after I decked him and I was released by the uni security guards that I was contreversal,
Occasionally saying what i’m certain is true and hinting at that for which I have no evidence, it adds credibillity, I will let you take that on board and use it as you will.
Regards Allan

1-26. Through the Barn Door

Oct 28, 2005 - 0837hrs UTC │Alcohol List, Stocktake

By Alex on October 28, 2005, at 0837 UTC

Topic(s): Albatrosses, Bread making, Supplies & Storage

0837hrs 28 Oct 2005 UTC 37’51”S 021’53”E Ref 496

DB: dmgDistance Made Good; More here 103 – seems about right, given the adverse current and the overnight park. 69 days out, so in 2 days we will equal the Falklands – Falmouth leg in days, followed the next day by a Berrimilla record voyage. We have already sailed about 1000 miles further.

We have again done a stocktake of the Medicine Chest in the face of an elongated voyage. We will run out of everything useful in about 40 days so we are on an abstemious kick – no more Dr Grumpy, morning Consultation with The DoctorGuinness on alternate days only and smaller G&TGin and Tonic’s. Glooom.

Steve says our Fastnet medals for 2nd in the 2 handed div and 3rd in the seahorse div (that’s a special division basically for RORC newcomers) have arrived from RORC – there might perhaps be a photo for the site. We’ll be the last to see them!

Kevin and Denise – If it helps, I will do a 5 minute sequence for you in the next calm patch, showing how to set up Kevvo so he steers the boat right along the chalk line. Let me know. I’ve done a bit of the wild and woollies too over the last couple of days plus some bare polingExplanation here. Not brilliant and I can’t get out there in the really spectacular stuff, unfortunately.

Last night, as we struggled with the wind and spray and brought in the headsails, I saw, right out on the edge of my peripheral vision in the glow of the spreader lights, a shape on the water – a sort of white patch, but not evanescent like most white stuff out here. It was an albatross, sitting on the surface watching us go by – noice! The spreader lights turn the exercise into a page from the Inferno – orange fiery jib, blasting, flashing spray moving horizontally, glistening red and yellow dayglo figures with bright reflective patches toiling at full stretch at heaving masses of canvas and lines and the whole lot tossing and crashing and rolling. What must an albatross think of us humans?

I’ve just made bread. Anyone who has romantic notions of the soothing feel of the dough and the tactile sensations and illicit pleasure of kneading and rising and the ultimate satisfaction of the small of baking – forget it – anyone who tries to make bread in a tossing gyrating small boat with no work surface, no stowage for the necessary implements and bowls, nowhere to ‘cover with a damp cloth, place in a warm spot and allow to rise until dough has doubled…'(if you try, you’ better be prepared to sit on it) – that person should be certified instantly and removed for their own safety. It’s a refined form of masochism and at the end, you have a monster cleanup of spilled flour, crumbs, hardened dough, bowls, frying pan etc. All for about 8 slices. Very nice to have and to hold, perchance to eat, but worth the candle? – I think not! Only about another ten packs to go.

1-26. Through the Barn Door

Oct 28, 2005 - 1600hrs UTC

By Alex on October 28, 2005, at 1600 UTC

1600hrs 28 Oct 2005 UTC 37’39”S 022’43”E Ref 497

Rioting in the aisles – fireworks on the rooftops – alby poo all over Kevvo (L, J, & H – he forgot to tweak!) – we’ve just picked up our first Australian voice on the radio! Wooooohooooo! Gerry Fitz asked us to check whether we could pull in the Australian Bureau of Meteorology broadcast from Wiluna in W.A. (how far is that from Kojonup??) and here they are large as life on 6 megs. Hear them? Don’t they sound good? We’re on the home stretch, no matter how difficult it gets.

From Peter D.

I am a neighbour of Alex and wish them Godspeed to get back here to go to Hobart. Just for the record Alex knows I have done the journey from Capetown to Melbourne in an Robb designed 39fot cutter – in 1972. We left May 3rd and arrived dockside Melbourne July 1st. 59 days. Th yacht was similar to a LION class just a foot or two longer. We didnt have an engine to motor through quiet spots – but there werent many. I was worried about Alex around the Agulhas Banks – and am glad they are clearing that area where the warm current moving down the East Coast of Africa meets the cold currents of the Southern ocean.

Of other interest, I had a phone call from one of the Hercules crew that was involved in a rescue mission for some Japanese fishermen shipwrecked near Isle St Paul (just below Amsterdam Island). These two islands are about half way between Afica and Aus. That rescue was in 1995 and RAAF Hercules bloke described St Paul as very steep sided on the west, being then like the top of a volcano, but spilling far more gently into the sea on the eastern side. In fact there is a sea entrance into the centre of te volcano, so one can wax lyrical about a Tahition island – alas no maidens, so no inhabitants, temporary or permanent. There is a single shed on the island – the history of why and how and when may be fascinating. In any case I am hoping to get hold of some photographs taken from the Hercules, of the island. I could then scan and email to you or Alex and Peter if that would work, and if they want.

If you would like that to happen please let me know and I shall do my best this end

Peter D, thanks for offer of pics – Steve will contact you. Wish we had time to sail into the volcano of St Paul. Sounds fascinating.

Gerry, will write separately. For anyone else with a dead MerlinMerlin calculator, it seems that Boatbooks in Sydney can restore their programs. Sadly, mine was full of salt water and burst teabags and I’m sure it’s really dead. But at the risk of seeming greedy, Martin and Kevin, yes please. I’d love to have a backup one. The sense of loss was deep and meaningful – it is such an exquisite and useful gadget.

The very much land locked year2/3 class in Kojonup,W.A. are following your adventures. We have the atlas out and read your log-updates. The photo gallery is fantastic and we are inspired by the descriptions of the storms, the birds and other wildlife. You remind us of Robert the Bruce, Shackleton and Scott,and other heroes, all had that “”never say die”” attitude! GO GUYS!

And huge G’day to class 2/3 at Kojonup, W.A. – nice to know that you are interested and following us. If you want to write to us and tell us about Kojonup, we will try to answer. You are the third school that we know is following us – there’s one in England and one in Sydney as well as you. I wonder if there are any more.

From Jo

I have been meaning to mention that I was aboard the Sydney 38 Cuckoos Nest (MYC2 – the boat on the left of Fitness First Sting) on the Berri home page. With the Lord Howe race starting Saturday, it’s a bit hard to believe that was two years ago !

Jo, thanks for checking in! We can put you in touch with the others if you like.

Jennifer, you guys snuck out of that little contretemps rather neatly! I thought we were done for a moment there.

1-26. Through the Barn Door

Oct 29,2005 - 0915hrs UTC

By Alex on October 29, 2005, at 0915 UTC

0915hrs 29 Oct 2005 UTC 37’34”S 024’14”E Ref 498

DB: dmgDistance Made Good; More here 92 – gps 123 about right, as we’ve been headed a bit by the top of the high. 70/40, so tomorrow equals our record and, incidentally, equals the time it took Ellen MacArthur to go all the way around. She was going about three times as fast as us!

The equation: the great circleSee here (Wikipedia) distance to SE Cape from here is about 5250 nm, rhumb line about 5500. We can go down to about 40 S on the Gt Circle but after (below) that it gets too iffy and we will try to run due east along 40 S. At this moment, we are heading straight down the great chalk circle to the good Dr. Cooper – approx 120T. We have just about enough diesel to keep the batteries charged without help from solar and with solar we can survive without diesel. We will not run out of food or water, although adequate (as opposed to survival) water does depend on power supply. Plenty of other essentials like bogBrolga Owners Group paper and engine oil, torch batteries and the rest. Patience will be a problem – the black sheep in the prudence, patience, persistence and perseverance progression. We will certainly denude the Medicine Chest sometime around 30 days from now – we are looking at extreme conservation measures as we go. Today is Pete’s appointment with the Consultant Physician, for instance, and I get mine tomoz. Drastic measure – perhaps not yet extreme. We have reserved half our remaining supply of G&TGin and Tonic not to be opened until past half way across the lily pond. The little bit of surplus G will be stretched experimentally with other fluids.

From Mark A.

Port Geographe is out: I checked with my brother in Customs and can only clear customs in Fremantle, Bunbury or Albany ports. I have set out the details of Bunbury and Albany ports below.

I will see whether I can source a cheap second-hand Ampair and let you know.

So, Mark A in Perth, if you can find a second hand generator, we may have to ask you to kindly forward it to Sydney. We are resting the one we have here in the hope that we won’t damage it beyond reasonable repair. Albany is still on the cards and we won’t really have a proper feel for the final route until we are at least half way across.

Jo and the kids at at Kojonup – how on earth did you find us? – most unlikely website for you guys, I would have thought. Did you get the extra info on Pulau Tiga? Tiga is Indonesian for three, so Three Islands. Paul told us that there are three mud volcanoes on the island and as you approach it you see them first and it looks like three islands. I’m not sure exactly where it is and I can’t find it on the Cmap on the laptop, but somewhere north east or north of Brunei and not very far away. Probably too small for most atlases – Sorry, BelmoreSydney School corresponding with Berri, if you’ve been searching in vain. Perhaps Paul can come back to us?

Helen K at BelmoreSydney School corresponding with Berri, thanks for the bit of history about your Henry Knight. I think we should all meet for lunch with Doug and Estelle and compare artefacts – in a consultative environment!.

Linda and the kids at King’s – G’day. When I did geography at school in England – thankfully, a very long time ago – it was all about facts – tons of wheat grown in the USA, number of people who live in Timbuctoo, places where the rainfall is less than 3″ per year. All sort of out of context. Sounds as if you guys have a much more interesting syllabus. Have you studied the flows of the great ocean currents around the globe – we are meeting some of the surface ones, but it is as much the very deep ones that may affect your future if the flow pattern changes, as it seems to be doing. I think I would have enjoyed being an oceanographer, but too late now!

Sometimes I sit and look at this keyboard in sort of disbelief – what is there to talk about? – as happened this morning. But it seems to evolve. If we stay on schedule, there will be about 100 more of these and then the mighty Stephen can go and do something else for more that 12 hours at a time. What will the rest of us do? I guess Pete and I must try and get a book together, but that’s trivial and doesn’t involve all y’all.

No takers, so far, for out bijou penthouse for a goldfish. Perhaps there’s a friendly babel fish out there in need of a home who can delve into the BeepA short story by James Blish for us. This morning’s sailchange involved a convocation of about 50 black petrels sitting on the water a few yards away as we passed, all chittering and cheeping – such an odd sound for such big birds.

1-26. Through the Barn Door

Oct 29, 2005 - 1530hrs UTC

By Alex on October 29, 2005, at 1530 UTC

Topic(s): Supplies & Storage

1530hrs 29 Oct 2005 UTC 37’57”S 024’55”E Ref 499

Today’s little tragedy – we went to a lot of trouble to preserve our cans of ale by covering them in wd40 and insulating them from the s/s ice boxes – and almost succeeded. I was doing a final count today in the main icebox and, sadly, found that about 6 or 7 cans had deteriorated to the point where they have to be drunk in the next 24 hours or so if they survive that long and two had died altogether. Another two were just expiring. That makes a huge hole in our tiny remaining stock. I think that a periodic maintenance schedule would be needed next time – take them all out at least every couple of weeks and re grease and stow them and carefully dry out any salt water in the box. Big job, but I guess it reduces with time. I hope the few we have in their original packs in plastic bags in the forepeak are still ok. We have so little available storage space that the iceboxes seemed – and still seem – to be the best place for as many as they will hold. Looks like a dry passage from much earlier that we had hoped. Oh bother. A glooomy prospect. PPPP! We Shall Overcome! If they do last till tomorrow, we can celebrate our record passage in style, DV & WP! There might even be a spare to drink the health of the Dame who done it faster.

We have thought a bit about where to from here – the primary focus is the start line and so Bass Strait is looking like the go, with a short stop to clear Customs, refuel and restock the fridge in Eden. Albany with or without Eden is still a possibility but it is looking very much as if we will bypass SE Cape. A pity in a way – it would have crowned the endeavour.
We’ll know more by half way across. Start line is still on the cards but we need a bit of luck.

Had a fast day so far, cracking 7’s and 8’s generally along the Gt Circle but now back down to #4 and 5.5 in 35 – 40 NEasterly on the back of the high. More roll and gyration.

Jo C at YWMagazine published in the UK, you’re on for the S2H if you want to take a punt and I’m sure we could get you a ride with someone else if we don’t make it. Let me know where your head is so we can plan.

From Mark L

Alex, a question – just to distract you from the interminable clenching. (and because you are my yachting authority).

My beloved Top Hat (Baker built, Shilland sails – what a coincidence!) – is taking in a litre a day whilst at the mooring. The prop shaft gland (I think that’s what it’s called ) seems OK.. Is a litre a day excessive – or am I just being paranoid?

Let me know in December.

Mark L – By Jove, I think you’ve got it! About once a minute or longer would be reasonable. Can be tightened with big special spanner from chandler or friendly engineer as long as stuffing not stuffed – else needs restuffing. Also, does it have a grease cap? If so, fill it up with waterproof grease (several times if it has been neglected) and screw down and that might fix without all the rest. I think a restuff can be done quite easily without slipping if you have access but get advice. You can stuff the outer end of the gland with grease if you don’t mind going over the side and that should minimise water intake. Baker boats don’t osmose. Where do you keep it?

From Marcus H

Firstly a big thank you for keeping all this together. I am sure that thousands of people are following the progress of Alex and Pete in this fantastic venture. It has certainly kept me gripped more than any book I have ever read. In fact it is like reading a “”living book”” with everyone behind the heros willing them to succeed.

And now to Alex and Pete this is an update on the berrimilla sandwich. I read in your last log (0730 26th Oct) that you have just run out of bacon. Oh Disaster! and just as sales are starting to pick up in the restaurant. I even had one customer tell me that it was the best bacon sandwich that he had ever had.Thank you for the kick start into starting to serve breakfast in my restaurant.I am still trying to sell the hot chocolate and coffee idea will let you know.

I wish you well and still check in every day.Hang on tight and think of the great consultation that all your followers will have when you arrive.

Marcus – glad breakfasts are a success. The coffee is definitely an acquired taste. A bit like The DoctorGuinness!

G’day Coombsey – Thanks for your note – I really do miss all that but once past the use by date, mate, it’s definitely time to go. Love to hear from you guys and anyone at SITACS and the Dept. at UoW, but please use berri@berrimilla.com, not direct to the boat. Ta.

1-27. Indian Ocean Examiner

Oct 30, 2005 - 0200hrs UTC

By Alex on October 30, 2005, at 0200 UTC

Topic(s): Fresh water, Sleeping

0200hrs 30 Oct 2005 UTC 38’32”S 025’39”E Ref 500

Another frustrating day – we are bare polingExplanation here again in a NE/35-40 off the back of a high – I misread the grib, not that it would have made any difference except that it was unexpected. It’s not the wind – that is essentially trivial – but the combination of wind, waves and required direction. We were doing nearly 7 knots last night with just the 5 but rolling and crashing into a rising beam sea and we thought that prudence should take over. Bare polingExplanation here gives us about 3, and a bit more to the south, rolling horribly. We haven’t had more than about 6 hours straight with any sail combination since we passed Tristan – or so it seems. We make radical sail changes several times a day just to stay safe and keep moving roughly towards Oz and it’s very much stop/start sailing. The weather systems just keep trucking through. It’s 0200 UTC as I write, with about an hour to daylight. The wind has blown solidly and steadily all night but should back and increase during the day, so we will await developments. Meanwhile, the house battery is down to 11.4 volts, I think it will be an overcast day, so we will need at least half an hour of engine. We can’t make water with the present motion and wind angle – the inlet line, with the seacock deep under the mast, still gets airlocks in it as we roll. We have about 70 litres in reserve, some of it in bottles we have carried sinceDunedin. This is about 18 days supply and I think it is time to start using this when we need it. Sadly, we will be unable to supplement it from the Medicine Chest for as long as we had hoped.

Despite the frustration, today we will have a small celebration for our longest passage – probably a Consultation each from the deteriorated ready use supply and an Allen’s jelly snake each to remind us of where we are heading.

One of the things I try fiercely to protect is the integrity of the stuff I sleep in – bunk, searug, bivvy bag and sleeping bag and clothes. Everything gets wet unless it is protected and there is often flowing water across the cabin floor when we roll like this – the residual water in the bilge comes up and around the edges of the floor with each roll – this morning, I got up, decided I would treat myself to a rare cup of coffee and scrabbled around for the coffee jar. Found only a jar with brownish coffee smelling water that might once have been it – so opened our last coffee brick and boiled the water and as I stepped back from the stove, felt something under my foot. It was my favourite red knitted beanieKnitted hat that cossets my uninsulated swede when I’m sleeping – knitted by Olga – and it was wringing wet. Bugger. Not Happy. The Navy in Port Stanley gave us a roll of wonderful paper towels that I’ve been using to wipe down the nav area during bad condensation – they are so good that I can recycle them and dry them out – so I rolled the beanieKnitted hat tightly in a couple of them to soak out the water and I’ve now got a damp beanieKnitted hat – might have shrunk a bit, which wont hurt.

Talking of jars,Gary- still got them all and they are doing the job – thanks – we’ll sign one for you when we get back – you can have whatever is left in it!

Now early daylight – engine ticking over and charging at 20+ amps. Trying the watermaker.

Things are starting to wear out. The seams have failed in my right boot so a whole colony of ferals has evacuated to who knows where and I’m down to wearing my waterproof socks again. I think I have a spare pair of boots but I haven’t seen them for ages. If I haven’t, it’s going to be a long trip home! Wet feet are the pits.kts

I wonder how they are going in the Lord Howe race.

1-27. Indian Ocean Examiner

Oct 30, 2005 - 0345hrs UTC

By Alex on October 30, 2005, at 0345 UTC

0345hrs 30 Oct 2005 UTC 38’34”S 025’43”E Ref 501

For Malcom: Water T 17.8 – never calibrated so can’t guess accuracy – seemed ok aroundSydney.

Spare boots found – located by following loud yakka from the ferals, who knew they were there all the time and got there long before I did. Making water, will shortly set trisail and storm jib and go sailing again.

1-27. Indian Ocean Examiner

Oct 30, 2005 - 0900hrs UTC

By Alex on October 30, 2005, at 0900 UTC

0900hrs 30 Oct 2005 UTC 38’46”S 026’18”E Ref 502

DB: DMGDistance Made Good; More here 139 ! GPS 137? Something to do with the great circleSee here (Wikipedia)? Real current on our side for once? 71/39

So we start another, shorter leg, perhaps. Consultation has occurred, jelly snakes consumed and back to the grind. Dirty grey overcast, rain showers, #5 and trisail, could probably hold more but gusty, big waves, almost beam on, wind due to back and increase. We seem to have a couple of knots of current with us. Malcom, continuous digital readout of T, now 17.8. Tks for ships – I’m sure you will let us know if there’s any possibility of a meeting…Ta.

From Martin S.

Re S2H news “BlankHello Berris – just read your latest log, re going for it balls to the wall, to the max, to get to the line on time, and I am impressed, and humbled, and mad at myself for even thinking that I would have said ‘Sod it’ at the first sign of adversity and headed for somewhere (Cape Town theoretically, probably impossible realistically) that had warm showers and cold medicines on tap.

I can just see Berri arriving on C’mas Eve (I wont say C’mas Day, but am hoping it will be at least a week B4), having a tumultuous welcome, quick Customs, hopefully not a pierhead jump for the S2H crew, re-stock with potions and foods, and then set off to do battle again – an extra 6 days on a 4 month voyage is so insignificant in distance and time that you will be thinking it will be an absolute doddle. I hope. And it will.

Anyways, hope this can be received by sailmail – Stephen, please edit or wait until C’mas if you have to use the Sat-man. We are rooting for you all the way here. Havent posted MerlinMerlin calculator the Wizard yet, but will do on Mon or Tues – am pleased a place in Sydney can still resurrect Wizards.

Fair winds, and 8 knots home.

Martin, thanks for encouraging words and the Wizard – I shall cherish him just as I did his predecessor. John H – I hate to think what the EEO coordinator would do out here.

Need new grib so will send this.

Contributed by Ian of Chatham in the UK:

With apologies to all poets, past and present!!

Down in the Southern ocean with seas so steep
Battles Berri onward while landlubbers sleep
Waves crash down from as high as the mast
And the crew want to know how long it will last

A consultation or two with the doctorGuinness each day
Help these two old farts stagger on their way
Not for this pair are the slippers and pipe
Should I bid for their t-shirt using Hammersnipe?

They beat to the north to escape the worst
But it doesn’t work, this ploy of theirs
For the examiner hears of it and scuppers the plan
And orders more waves, then speeds up the fan

But “How did ‘he’ know?” ask the wily old pair
The answer is behind them, up in the air!
Old alby glides by all pink in the light
And reports back to ‘him’ what’s in his sight

The examiner laughs, there’s a glint in his eye
And the bomb doors are opened as alby flies by
They jink to the left and then the right
But it’s too late now, Kevvo’s covered in shite

It gets worse each day, can they take much more
For it’s still a long way to the old barn door
The folks at home read the sitreps each day
While the old farts onboard begin to pray

And it’s not over yet for while the duo heave to
The examiner plans more than a knockdown or two
Over she goes, to one twenty or more
Gear flying about to land on the floor

But Alex writes on during this terrible spell
For this old sailor has much to tell
Stories of MerlinMerlin calculator – defunct, dead, deceased
Lost sandals and glasses on their journey east

Jammed at the table by elbows and knees
Squinting to hit one in three right keys
Pete wedged in the bogBrolga Owners Group, a little unsure
Shouts that this wasn’t in the bloody brochure

And wet socks are the order of the day
For the ferals have eaten the boots away
The doctorGuinness’s on ration, this isn’t a jest
The stock is depleted in the medicine chest

Water cannot be made without wrigglies we hear tell
And the genny and solar panel are both shot to hell
The tinnies in the eski have rusted away
Someone should have given them a monthly spray

Wet party gearFull wet weather gear on to change sail once more
As Berri is nearing the elusive barn door
Then at last, it’s here, they are finally through
And their shout can be heard……

WOOHOO….WOOHOO!!

1-27. Indian Ocean Examiner

Oct 31, 2005 - 0040hrs UTC

By Alex on October 31, 2005, at 0040 UTC

Topic(s): Books, Current, Power supply

0040hrs 31 Oct 2005 UTC 39’03”S 028’03”E Ref 503

From Warwick

Warwick here, an old mate of Pete’s and avid reader of the “”logs””, you do a fabulous job and thanks…..Alex referred to Linda and Kids at King’s…..do you know if this is The King’s School at Parramatta ? My son Cam attends King’s, and we were at CYCCruising Yacht Club of Australia to see Berri off in S2H ..the start of the epic. I saw Pete for a beer in London…sounds like consultations may be light on from here

Woc – The King’s School, Worcester, notParramatta. Linda is the geography teacher. Happy to talk to Parra if they want to.

From John and S. M-B

Long time no speak, in fact the last time I e-mailed you you had been knocked down! Hope this is not habit forming.
I was mightily impressed by your Fastnet performance and am hoping you make it to Oz in time for the next Sydney Hobart.
The flag you sent is now in our lounge awaiting inspiration, it was passed on by Bernard when we were last in UK. We hope to step the mast on our small boat tomorrow so we can start sailing around and gaining experience of these waters. I hope there not was exciting as yours at the moment!

We have had a fellow RN observer here for the Trafalgar 200 celebrations in Stanley and Mount Pleasant. Chap by the name of Mike C, he was the CO of 801 in 1965. Did you come across him?

Keeping you in our thoughts

J &S MB- I certainly knew MC – but don’t really remember any context except the usual meeting in Shepherds or somewhere. Glad the flag in place – we hope it will give many years of service – as no doubt, its previous owner did! Good to hear from you and good sailing down there.

From Doug

I gave you a bumsteer when I said The Java was becalmed at 40deg S below WA I should have reread the diary rather than just check my plot (although they were later becalmed in Bass Strait off Cape Otway) – they certainly weren’t going anywhere though south of WA ! – I just checked Henrys scribbled and partly crossed-out entry for Friday 8th April 1853 – they were far from becalmed. It has a familiar ring to weather you have experienced recently.

“”Friday 8th but [ ? ] very [ ? ] till 6 oclock when we set sail & was of again doing nothing but drifting up to Six wife about [ ? ] Very rough all day drifting dreadful with this rocking very much wind Blew very much first night my wife was afraid she thought the ship struck against a rock but it was a very heavy sea wife about the same Doctor had a fall”” Nil forward progress but it wasn’t calm !

Hope the wind stays at your back all the way home.

Doug – I can relate to Henry’s diary entry – not much changes does it? – Steve, perhaps you could post it please?

We are getting our first freebie – or at least noticeable one – since beforeCape Horncourtesy of Malcom, who has sent us some cold water. We have 2 knots of current behind us! I daren’t look at the instruments in case it goes away. It is now 1045 UTC and we have done 4 sail changes since 0300. Anyone would think this was a race. I think we must be getting impatient. Stir crazy?

12 hours later @ 3903 02803 31/0040

Still have about a knot of current. Water T 15.5. Wind has backed and we’re twin poled again with the 2 and the cutdown – yet another sail change.

I have just done the equation with a bit more precision. Assuming a 40 day trip, water maker every other day, we will need about 1900 amp hours from the battery. We have about 960 a/h in the diesel tank and I have assumed we can get 400 a/h from the solar panel. That will leave us about 540 a/h short without including the additional 20% needed to replace battery drop. This means that we will need to get them from the dying generator if possible and reduce power consumption to a minimum. Shorter trip, better solar, less power use will all contribute but that’s the bottom line. The VoA, perhaps. We will run the engine for 45 minutes three times per day on the overcast days if the generator finally stops generating. If we do start to run short, I will have to limit transmissions to perhaps one per day.

So it’s looking very likeAlbanyat this stage. I don’t see that we will be able to last as far as Eden or Hobart. If we get really lucky, we will get toAlbanyin under 40 days. FromAlbanytoSydneyis anyone’s guess, but assuming about 1700 miles, it will take about 15 days. 55 days from today is Christmas Day. Cutting things a bit fine but not out of the question.

Pete has been reading Shackleton’s book ‘South’ and I apologise if I have been hamming up the hardship a bit out here. What those guys went through makes our little bits of unpleasantness seem like a doddle.

31/0450 Water T 14.5

1-27. Indian Ocean Examiner

Oct 31, 2005 – 0900hrs UTC

By Alex on October 31, 2005, at 0900 UTC

Topic(s): Birds

0900hrs 31 Oct 2005 UTC 39’22”S 028’52”E Ref 504

DB: dmgDistance Made Good; More here 190 GPS 131 72/38 Odd. I am getting dmgDistance Made Good; More here by comparing distance to go toSE Capeyesterday with today using SOB and there should not be a discrepancy like that. Not sure what is happening. I need my MerlinMerlin calculator! 190nm is feasible but unlikely and I’m sure we did better than 131. For once, superb sailing, although we had to do a few changes, as usual. We were hitting 8 kts over the ground for a lot of the day, with Malcom’s cold water pushing us along. We still have a knot with us and the wind steady from the N, 20 – 25, with the 2 and full main. A bit of swell, from all four corners, but not yet anything to worry about. Can this be the realIndian Ocean??

We saw a huge sunfish this morning as we changed sail – at least, thats what we think it was – sort of greenish white mottled, but difficult to see its shape. Birds still with us – mostly black petrels with short curved white beaks. There was a lone Albatross sitting on the water as well – I first saw it silhouetted on a wave crest – they are very podgy and dumpy when resting and then they spread those amazing wings and just rise into the air and they become magnificent in a twinkling. We also have the stubby birds with black tops with spotted white patches topside – lovely patterns especially as the sun catches them.

Solar panel is now putting in about 4.5 amps and keeping the battery fully charged. Just needs full sunlight and careful alignment. It will not be enough to get us home on its own without working for 5 hours/day at that rate, every day, but it’s a help.

I seem to be fresh out of whimsy – just been very busy and a bit knackered. And sore – I was taking off the trisail at dawn this morning and let go in the cockpit at just the wrong moment in a roll and was sat down from about a metre and a half, right on the pointy bit of the right cheek of the bott. And left elbow. Bruised and battered, but happy to be making the sort of progress we were expecting. Will send this and see what there is from all y’all – it will certainly inspire.

1-27. Indian Ocean Examiner

Oct 31, 2005 - 1315hrs UTC

By Alex on October 31, 2005, at 1315 UTC

Topic(s): Sailchange

1315hrs 31 Oct 2005 UTC 39’35”S 029’30”E Ref 505

I’ve completely lost any sense if time or sequence. Some time in the last 24 hours – or more – we were twin poled with the 2 and the cutdown, and the trisail left over from an earlier stoush with some blast or other sheeted tightly fore and aft to see whether it helps to dampen the roll. Not appreciably, Hugh – it’s a tiny sail. Then we changed to the full main and the 2 – a big change because the tri had to go first, then a big rearrange of the headsails, poles and sheets, then raise the main and 2. Hoooning along for a bit – some hours?? – touching 9 through the water, mostly 7’s and 8’s plus a knot of current. Then down to 3 reefs and the 5 for about an hour – not sure again – and we’ve just changed back to the trisail and the storm jib. Bloody ridiculous. And we are still doing 6’s and 7’s. NW at about 35 -40 with building sea. The last few weeks have been one long blur of sail changes, spray, unpleasantness and sunshine – a crazy cascade of images with no structure. And a sunfish and an albatross in a storm.

Got wet – yet again – during one of the changes this morning and my two layers of thermals were so sticky and horrible with salt and scroffles that I thought I should peel them. Don’t like the sight of my flaccid torso – much rehab needed. Now wearing my nice new Gill thermals direct from the factory all red and grey and the height of fashion. Thanks to the people at Gill for all the work they did restoring our gear.

From Malcom

Alex, except for a weak tongue of warm water that may intrude at yr latitude from the N at 30E you should be in waters of T 14 through 17 until 35E. Presently, there is, past 35E, a small tongue of warm water but that may have gone by the time you get there.

Malcom – thanks for info – a bit hard to go hunting for current, unfortunately, we’re just not fast enough, but nice to know about it in case we can find it. And what it cost to know it’s there! Can in due course.

Mark A inPerth, thanks for offer of help inAlbany. We will need to clear customs, refuel and restock the medicine chest, perhaps have a shower if there is time, and move on out. Hardly even time for a proper Consultation, but we’ll make it happen. If you can find a generator and get it down there, that would be fantastic, but the refuel will get us toSydney.

From Roger

Congratulations on rounding the corner, now full speed ahead, we’re waiting for you!
Your S2H entry has been accepted, and the Race Committee are happy to wait for everything else ( signatures, entry fee, Cat 1 safety, radio insp cert, liferaft cert etc etc) until you get here.. We’re all still following your exploits in increasing numbers.. See you in about 7 weeks

Roger, thanks for all that – we’ve just got to get there now. I will be in touch.

Ian, great poem – thanks – you’ve obviously got a handle on my gibberish! I understand from IsabellaAlex's sister that there will soon be a glossary for the mystified. My sister knows Too Much – not sure about all that!

An idea for those who want a project and a bit of adventure in their lives – only an idea at this stage but I’d like to know if anyone is interested. The London Marathon is run in the first couple of weeks in April. I may be able to get to London, perhaps score an entry and run it. Well, plod it really. Would any of all y’all like to join me – we could have a Berrimilla team and raise a heap of cash for the relevant charity and all the runners could have their names in the book when we write it. Would be easiest for the UKresidents, but no reason why anyone from anywhere in the world who can get themselves there and score an entry shouldn’t join us – all the green and white mob in Sydney, for instance. If you are interested, could you drop a (short!)line to berri@berrimilla.com. If you’ve never run one, there’s just time to get in enough training to give it a whirl, even though there’s an English winter coming up over there. But it’s only an idea at this stage and I wouldn’t like to quote any odds on its happening.

1-27. Indian Ocean Examiner

Oct 31, 2005 - 1745hrs UTC

By Alex on October 31, 2005, at 1745 UTC

Topic(s): Books

1745hrs 31 Oct 2005 UTC 39’39”S 030’00”E Ref 506

Pete was reading some more Shackleton. There’s hope for us yet – when things were tough on Elephant Island, ‘the Men’, scientists, tradesmen, officers, were given a tablespoon of methylated spirit in a pint of warm water flavoured with sugar and ginger for their Christmas drink. MMMM! A Con with a difference when desperation really sets in. We haven’t any seal blubber, but I’ve been eying off the ferals and they are getting nervous.

And Shackleton talked of a ‘presence’ that both he and Wilde felt during the boat trip and on their trek across S. Georgia, that helped them make the right decisions. I’ve often wondered about that – is it simply an artifice of the godfearing mind to enable it to cope with superhuman obstacles? I’ve never felt presences out here, although I don’t really think one can compare experiences like that, but I have sometimes reached what I think Robert Pirsig (Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance – cult book when I was at Uni) meant when he described ‘the high country of the mind’ – an intensely heightened awareness of self and surroundings induced by circumstance rather than drugs and alcohol. But, of course, I’m sure that the Albatross in the storm was Tommy’s ghost! Far too knowing an eye for anyone else’s presence!

We’re still rolling along, storm jib and tri, although the wind has abated a bit. I pulled in the latest grib after sending my last and there is a very tight little low forming directly behind us with attendant nastiness. More exercise for the freckle, I fear, so we are not rushing to change sail – might even see the night out.

Somewhere back in the blur of all this, I wrote about things starting to wear out – my boots, I think. My hands too – they have started to wrinkle and the nails are going white. Noice. Insufficient Medicinal Compound – where’s Lily? And my searug – worn almost skinless before we left, is now gossamer thin and mildewed as well. Still works though.

1-27. Indian Ocean Examiner

Nov 01, 2005 – 0400hrs UTC

By Alex on November 1, 2005, at 0400 UTC

0400hrs 01 Nov 2005 UTC 39’41”S 031’01”E Ref 507

An idea for the next competition – for anyone with imagination and a palette. Kids’ art class, perhaps? Create a painting or a drawing called ‘Albatross in the Storm’, any style, any medium and send me a small jpeg or a scan and we will provide an authentic Berrimilla souvenir to the one we like best. Here’s my image: On an A4 page in ‘landscape’ orientation draw an imaginary diagonal line from top left corner to bottom right. This represents the horizontal. I’m crouched at the forward end of the cockpit facing aft and about 2 metres away is Berrimilla’s pushpit – a sort of fence around the back of the boat with GPS aerials and other paraphernalia attached to it. There are photos on the website for the perfectionists. The backstay rises from the deck just inside it and disappears at the top and Kevvo and his vane are working away behind it. The boat is at the end of a roll to the right – so to my left as I face aft and the backstay and pushpit are oriented more or less vertically up the page. Subdued light, Turneresque clouds, perhaps a glimmer of sunshine from the right somewhere. It is blowing 60 knots from the right. Directly behind and above the pushpit and about 30 metres away is a serrated ridge of grey blue green wavetop with spray blowing off the top and white wind lines running down its face. This ridge slopes down from the left and merges with a towering mass of water on the right – a crest just beginning to break but with ice blue green translucence in the top edge and again, spray breaking away to the left. Above all this – so in the top right hand corner, is an albatross, head to wind, huge wings curved downwards – hovering immobile and serene on the wind. It is about 15 metres away and I can see its eye and beak clearly. The contrast between the fury and the stillness is profound.

That is what I remember – but it’s just to give you the flavour, not the actual picture. Make of it whatever your imagination provides. Leave out the bits of boat entirely, if that works better for you. If you want to do one, get it to us at berri@berrimilla.com by email by the time we get to Sydney. If the idea really does get into a kids’ art class, perhaps a bit of prejudging by the teachers might help – send us say the best 5, as judged by the class? IzzoIsabellaAlex's sister, Alex’s sister – a dental flossed version??

1-27. Indian Ocean Examiner

Nov 01, 2005 – 0730hrs UTC

By Alex on November 1, 2005, at 0730 UTC

0730hrs 01 Nov 2005 UTC 39’35”S 031’16”E Ref 508

For Malcom:@ 3935 3116 01/0730 T 19.5. No noticeable current. Thanks for callsign IA – we’ll holler as we get closer and could perhaps phone them.

H – into the pear and fennel chutney – yum – thanks! Fisting a triple decker biscuit sandoAustralian sandwich as I poke at the keyboard.

Still doing a sail change every few hours – and every time we do, it makes us a few miles – which we’d lose and never recover if we shirked the change. Knackering in the extreme sometimes – but we’re eating up the miles. Seems we have a softish spot behind us and then serious stink, which just might slide down below us. When I look at the large scale chart, there is now clear progress over the pond – my large scale is similar to the tracking charts on the website. The most optimistic guess would put us at Albany in about 35 days.

To all y’all who might have joined me for the London Marathon – seems like it’s a no hoper for this year as entries are firmly slammed shut. Any takers for 2007? Same deal – just an idea at this stage, but let me know.

1-27. Indian Ocean Examiner

Nov 01, 2005 – 0900hrs UTC

By Alex on November 1, 2005, at 0900 UTC

0900hrs 01 Nov 2005 UTC 39’34”S 031’24”E Ref 509

3934 3124 01/0900 73/37

DB: dmgDistance Made Good; More here 124, gps 128 seems reasonable. Another sail change – now broad reaching east with the cutdown and the trisail. 6’s and 7’s, but perhaps a smidgin of current against us. Grey thick overcast, solar giving us about half an amp – better than nowt! Generator sounding very close to the end, so saving for desperate times.

I reckon this feels like about 30 k in the marathon – seems we’ve had a few of those this year! – finish nowhere near in sight, the hard work still to be done and every metre a little Everest to be climbed. Every muscle complaining, feet sore and blistered. Head firmly in neutral, trying not to think about it else how would you ever go on doing it? Persistence and perseverance. And truckloads of patience.

1-27. Indian Ocean Examiner

Nov 01, 2005 - 1330hrs UTC

By Alex on November 1, 2005, at 1330 UTC

Topic(s): Books

1330hrs 01 Nov 2005 UTC 39’29”S 031’52”E Ref 510

Picture competition: change of plan – it has been suggested that we change the painting competition to a painting or drawing of anything you imagine from reading the logs – I think that’s a much better idea, so go for it. A portrait of a boot feral, perhaps?

From Malcom C.

When at Boatbook shop this morning finding out about Amsterdam call sign I bought a book by Vito Dumas, “”Alone through the Roaring Forties””. An Argentinian who in June1942 (yep in middle of WW2) set sail from Buenos Aires to Capetown (55 days), Cape Town to Wellington (104 days) Wellington to Valparaiso (72 days) Valparaiso to Me del Plata via Horn (37 days). All this solo in a 31 foot ketch rigged yacht, “”Legh II”” finishing at Mar del Plata in July 1943. You’re retracing his route at present. Interesting ideas for yr book.

Malcom – I have Vito Dumas’ book. Astonishing bloke, and he went the whole way around using an old raincoat as his wet weather gear. There’s a boat in Hobart that looks very like Legh II and may have been built that way.

From Peter S.

Any ideas where I can obtain a scale drawing of Berrimill or other Brolga 33? I have searched the web without result.
I intend doing a computer drawing but need to have the measurements right before I start. I can use the web photos for details and colors.

Peter S, as far as I know, there are no scale drawings of a Brolga. I asked Peter Joubert and he has no plans. Brian Shilland has a sail plan and there may be something in an old Sailing Mag that we were told about but that’s all. Do any of the BOGgersBrolga Owners out there know of a set of plans or scale drawings – please let us know.

From Bernie B.

An ode from Horace, a Roman philosopher (I think 79AD).

Happy the man,
And happy he alone,
He who can call today his own,
He who secure within can say,
Tomorrow do thy worst for I have live today.

Keep it going boys. The technology might be different from Shakeltons time, but the fortitude, guts and tenacity is the same.

Bernie, thanks for Horace.

1-27. Indian Ocean Examiner

Nov 01, 2005 - 2250hrs UTC

By Alex on November 1, 2005, at 2250 UTC

Topic(s): Generator, Power supply, Watches

2250hrs 01 Nov 2005 UTC 39’24”S 032’36”E Ref 511

Story of a watch – 01/1500-1800: Grey overcast with light, barely visible diaphanous mist over the water. Black petrels plus a small grey one and a lone, twin tailed tern milling around. The watch started with the storm jib and the trisail – comfortable and easy in about 25 kts from the N, 2 metre confused swell, 5.5 through the water, no measurable current, T 19.4. I came on and almost immediately the wind began to fade and we took down the tri and storm jib and set the main with 3 reefs and the cutdown – big, fiddly job. Pete started cooking the evening meal, I rinsed some grease from a newly opened packet of cheese into the sea and the petrels moved in and fought for the bits – they are with us because they must sense a source of food and they fly tight circles around the back of the boat, especially when we are eating in the cockpit. The wind came back in at about 30+, Berri sliding off the waves, green water over the decks and we dropped the cutdown and set the 4. Half an hour later, back to the cutdown and we gave ourselves a gin for effort, despite today being a day of abstinence in the new conservation regime (on the basis that as we close the Australian coast, anything – even no gin – will be bearable). I sat, damp and draggly, in the cockpit monitoring developments and Pete sent up the Pasta of the Day – Chefsway Spag BogBrolga Owners Group, with the block of cheese to grate into it. Petrels very interested, tighter circles. Wind dying to nothing. Rinsed out bowl, Pete to bed and I tossed the third reef – wind now all but gone, sloppy confused sea, lots of gyration killing forward progress. Immediately tossed the second and first reefs – no appreciable wind but enough showing on the instrument to give a clue as to direction to steer. Both sails slatting and banging – mostly inside out, or so it seemed. Not enough for Kevvo, so alternately hand steered and fiddled with sheet leads, mainsail shape, preventer – bloody everything that could help to induce forward motion. Wet, cold, white wrinkled hands. For a few minutes there was a flaming orange gash in the gloom to the west as the sun set behind a thinner patch of overcast. Around 1700, faint suspicion of breeze – re lead cutdown sheet right aft to spinnaker turning block to flatten sail, sheet in main and slowly bring Berri up onto the new breeze. Numbers on the log – 0.4, 0.7, 1.2… Direction more or less E. Handed over to Pete at 1800 with 2.5 kts on the clock, T now 15.8, heading East. Total miles for the three hours, about 6, GPS showing snaky path all over the ocean, but generally east. Huge headbang, but every mile coming right off the top.

The Ampair generator has just about expired, with what sound like completely collapsed bearings. It has done a wonderful job, considering the extreme abuse it has endured. It worked perfectly for about 16000 miles including some the severest and nastiest bashings available, with every variation of speed, waves, skipping turbine and turbulence thrown at it. I should have thought to have its bearings serviced in the UK – or have looked for a second hand spare. Big mistake – next time I will know. I think that its eventual expiry has been well within the definition of fair wear and tear and I have no complaints. I’m sure that with more benign treatment, it would have run for a lot longer. (is – don’t know if george reads this – pse tell him he can quote this para if he wants . ta)

On experience over the last few days, we are not going to get enough sunlight to get us home at our present power consumption rate. Tomoz has promise, and will wait and see. I think, though, that we will need to consider turning off the instruments and the gps for large chunks of each day – or perhaps overnight. I will try to keep the laptop running so that I can write these and we’ll look at one transmission per day, probably in our evening when propagation is best.

1-27. Indian Ocean Examiner

Nov 02, 2005 - 0500hrs UTC

By Alex on November 2, 2005, at 0500 UTC

Topic(s): Power problems

0500hrs 02 Nov 2005 UTC 39’31”S 033’26”E Ref 512

Juddy suggested we should turn off the instruments. I had an initial scoff and then thought, no, the man is quite right. I have got so used to all these goodies that I have begun to take them for granted but there’s a perfectly good GPS that runs at less than half an amp and keeping the laptop off but charging adds another 0.2 or so. So, that’s what we are doing. I will write as many of these as I can during the day and do 1 or 2 transmissions when propagation is good. Steve, please keep up what you are sending and monitor for a couple of days to see how we go. good prop at all times except 0800 – 1400 gmt.

No DB for the time being – all y’all can work it out from the positions. Solar p, even under cloud gives nearly 0.5 amp.

So – here goes.

1-27. Indian Ocean Examiner

Nov 02, 2005 - 0850hrs UTC

By Alex on November 2, 2005, at 0850 UTC

0850hrs 02 Nov 2005 UTC 39’40”S 033’53”E Ref 513

74/36 – dmgDistance Made Good; More here about 115. Back on song tomoz with new numbers from GPS.

From Juddy

daylight savings just started and did first Monday night spin twighlight last night…feels like summer now.

Re power needs. Have you considered turning instruments, GPS and VHF off. Maybe leave VHF on when you’re both below but I reckon you could save at least 30 amp/hrs per day that way. Just turn the GPS on to do a plot on the chart twice a day. You guys would know Berri well enough not to need wind info, in fact it might be a blessed relief not to know the wind velocity sometimes.. I’m assuming you have a steering compass, of course.

I did this on Tamboo saing to Tonga and found it made a huge difference. In fact I ended up not using instruments mid ocean on all the other legs.

Juddy, thanks for jolting us – me, really – out of my gizmological complacency. This seat of the pants sailing is much more fun and we’re not dependant on pulling in gribs or actual wind speed or any of that stuff. What’s the wind speed? Don’t know, about 30 kts, but there’s no green water over the decks, no pounding, the lee rail is a foot out of the water and we’ve got 6 – 7 knots through the water. Who cares what the actual speed is, Berri is handling it. So what’s the weather going to do – still looks pretty murky to the west – might pack in a bit, better keep an eye on it. Meanwhile, let’s have a cuppa. Woooohoooo! And, as long as I haven’t got this turned on, the solar is holding the charge under thick cloud with dank, misty rain, vis often 300 metres. Wooohooo again. We’re going to get there – where I’m not yet sure – Albany looks most likely, but SE Cape might just be possible. Eden direct might be possible too, also just. Decisions after half way across – taken to be south of St Paul.

Our S2H entry has been accepted – so we have to get there.

Is – salty dacron – 5 – 7 oz, I think. You can have as much as you need for your stuff.

About 4 hours later – so just who is funding the Examiner? Seems to me this inquisition has been far beyond any reasonable test of the product. Since I wrote the first para, we’ve gone from a full main and cutdown to the 4 and 3 reefs to what was to have been the Tri and the 5 but which became just the tri after we had hanked on the 5 and decided to shove it back down the hole and ride out the nastiness on the tri. Wind at high frequency howl, not yet quite shriek – perhaps gusting 50+. Wave tops blowing off, even grey sky – dark grey green sea, almost jade with the whitecaps stark and beautiful. Enough ambient light scattering around for the panel to go positive and give us 0.6 amps over the 0.4 that we need to keep the gps going with this baby on charge. We were doing between 4 and 7 over the ground. Soaked, white crinkly hands, nails going inside out.

We have new rules for Consultations in this stuff – beer is served on a needs basis and hang the consequences as we get closer to home. Gin will continue to be served at 1700 local time – now over 2.5 hours ahead of Greenwich. There will be a further celebratory Con when sunrise occurs at or about midnight UTC – some time to go yet.

Paul, I thought of portrait A4 too, just as I pressed the transmit button – but landscape works as well – leaves room for other stuff top and bottom…

And now we have a glimmer of sunshine – still at incipient shriek, but must be backing off a bit. Solar panel carrying the laptop – woohoo.

02/1025 – not for long. We’re now firmly in shriek mode – looks like steady 50, gusting 60+ – short, breaking seas, 4 – 5 metres, masses of white water moving horizontally. Berri catching the occasional one side on and thumping and shuddering in sheets and clouds of spray. I’ve just come in from the cockpit and shed my sodden party gearFull wet weather gear – wow! huge gust – boat on almost beam ends 70+? – where I was trying to help the poor old trisail cope – it is now so old and battered that it has a big belly in it and it tends to bag and hold the wind rather than spill it as designed to do, so the leech vibrates horribly occasionally. I tried to tweak it down but that made it worse, so eased the working sheet a bit and ground on the lazy – windward – sheet and that has improved it a little. Brian S, if you’re reading this, could you please try to find us a second hand trisail that you could alter to fit – if you have the plan for it. If you do, the foot needs to slope down from the tack so that the clew is about 8 – 10 inches lower than on the present one to get the lead right. The present one is right-angled at the tack. I have a halyard tape on the old one that we can transfer to the new one. Thanks heaps – also looking at a battenless #3 along the lines of the cutdown – will discuss when we get there. Pse email berri@berrimilla.com if you see this to confirm. Ta.

Enough – will try to send in a couple of hour.

1-27. Indian Ocean Examiner

Nov 02, 2005 – 1200hrs UTC

By Alex on November 2, 2005, at 1200 UTC

1200hrs 02 Nov 2005 UTC 39’47”S 034’13”E Ref 514

Past shriek into full blown scream. Pulled in the trisail in uproar of crashing water – sea going from dirty grey to swimming pool blue with white icing and back into smoky blue grey streaks and foam. Tennis court sized swimming pools. Scary and beautifrul. But I do wish it would blow away – we’re just sitting it out again – waves perhaps not so bad as knockdwn storm but fingers crossed and clench firmly in place. No idea of wind speed, mst be at least 70. Bare polingExplanation here – feels a bit better without tri. New rainsquall – more wind. So dark in cabin, need headlight to see keybd. Ferals in hiding – dont like bootfuls of water. New birds – dirty grey/brown – sort of cigarette ash muddy all over with same coloured beaks – look like small albys. Sitting on water in midst of maelstrom.

Unable send so will write more – in a lull – not fooled – had one before and came back stronger. Percy Vere, get over here! Had half knockdown – not serious but waves big enough. Was rgiht about lull – coming back again. Heavy driving rain. Vis 100 mtrs. No sign of abating. Can someone please tell me whether this is normal for here, now, or are we just unlucky? Seems we have had a succession of nasty ones that we had not expected. But whatever, we shall overcome.

Simon – the examiner visits us all – we shall have a consultation to your good health. Perhaps a sail when you recover? Best to Lucy and the kids, Steve speaks highly of you, and that is good enough for us.

1-27. Indian Ocean Examiner

Nov 03, 2005 - 0350hrs UTC

By Alex on November 3, 2005, at 0350 UTC

0350hrs 03 Nov 2005 UTC 39’43”S 035’33”E Ref 515

One of the nastiest nights of my life. I feel gutted, drained, pulverised. Not really sensible to sit here but show must go on. Laptop lashed 2 nav tbl across keybd.

This direct from scribbled notes from midnight ish:

Yest pm storm abated to gentle 30 kt or so. G&TGin and Tonic around 5 because it had been that sort of day. Another instead of dinner – THAT sort of day. I went to bed 1 hr – thought worst over – pete saw sun going down under overcast – relieved him, black overcast again – 1 star faintly vis.

used to Berri being quite light inside @ night – instruments, LEDs etc – now all off to conserve – no longer warm friendly light – blackness – reaches out, surrounds, – envelops, grasps suffocates. Wind past shriek to scream like persistent scream babies have designed to corrode insides of any listener till shove bottle in mouth – problem is can’t bottle feed storm in SIO. Impotent & scared. Must sit, listen and be assaulted – drillls into soul and starts to melt from inside.

Turned on inst – watched wind speed 2-3 minutes – never below 65. Later some massive gusts very much over – boat almost laid flat, wind banshee. Can hear somewaves coming -xpress train roar – awful sickening wait for crash and roll as arrives – roaring water, violent motion – some sneak up – complete silence, shuddering crash, fear gripping totally – no remedy. Always fear that next one will be THE one. Sitting as write on floor back to sink legs uphill feet on side of nav tbl. Unsafe sleep in my bunk – might get hurled out again if anchoring spectra takes out shelf – land on pete, both injured. Just sit/stand, sweat it out. no way can sleep antway – pete says can sleep when knows I’m up fretting – nicest thing heard for ages!

Every lull -lotts of them – is this the end of storm??

Perhaps easier with more experience – can’t know but don’t think so. Made cuppa 4 p & self – mine completely lost as massive roll at exact moment let go of mug on bench to hand pete his. Damn. PPPP start again – something to do pass time. Wonder if will ever read this in comfy armchair with Dr Cooper.

Too much stuff on coachroof – catches water can’t help it now – think later.

Kevv0 wonderful took us along 120M last night – now 070ish – big wind change fm N to W – on top of low? Went south of 40 during night, now back north.

Sort of happy grin to think storm Alby Tommy M having a laugh. Bastard!

Amanda- gotcha – no probs – pse be nice to S Jinks RYA if too late Ta.

Must write re diff between big boats small boats. Ocean 80 a small ship – Berri a tiny plastic soapdish half length of cricket pitch. Much smaller than waves – cant outrun, must cooperate with them as much as poss but feel every single one.

Near knockdn 02/2302 getting worse – scary. loose stuff hurtling cant secure everything. 2 big waves in succession. Erk! Gets bloody uncomftble on floor.

Small abate – wake pete and get into his bunk – but wind abates then slams back from soft silence to scream in an instant.

3 hours later – daylight – small drop – wind prob about 40 – 45. Hard tight lines of cloud to west and around. Big big waves, blue translucent swimming pool tops, crashing light blue foamy water in daylight. Fabulous lethal indifferent power.

1-27. Indian Ocean Examiner

Nov 03, 2005 – 0900hrs UTC

By Alex on November 3, 2005, at 0900 UTC

0900hrs 03 Nov 2005 UTC 39’27”S 035’46”E Ref 516

DB: dmgDistance Made Good; More here 106 gps 118 75/35

In the residual turbulence after the storm. About 25 – 30 kt, 7 -8 mtr swell from west, occasionally breaking leaving smoky blue swathes behind with foaming windlines. Confab half an hour ago and decided on conservative approach – Berri rolling severely still, so just # 5 till swell abates so don’t roll poles into water. Big potentially showstopping mistake if do! Really need twin poled 5 & 4 to get direction East but settled for about 030 for time being. Amazing how much better it all feels in daylight!

Round about now must be shirt auction on Lord Howe. Wonder how it’s going and who won the race?

I was rabbiting on a couple of days ago about the joys of seat-of-the-pants sailing. It’s great for us cruising boozing Old Farts but of course doesn’t compute for the round the world racers who must know with great precision exactly what is ahead and behind – they have the speed to go hunting for favourable combinations of wind and current and they have the internet access and communications to get real time data all the time. And the brains to use it all.

The solar panel, even stowed under cloudy overcast gives us half an amp – almost enough to keep us going on its own in sotp sailing mode. Wooohoo.

Chris – thanks for Homer – rings bells everywhere, but he knew the name of his Examiner – we don’t know who we’ve offended. Hope there’s a nice Goddess out there looking out for us too. Hi Lindsay – thanks for your note and yes. we are trying to get back in time to do the Sydney Hobart this year. I’m glad you liked the pink albatrosses – so did we!

1-27. Indian Ocean Examiner

Nov 04, 2005 – 0415hrs UTC

By Alex on November 4, 2005, at 0415 UTC

Topic(s): Birds, Petrels

0415hrs 04 Nov 2005 UTC 38’40”S 037’08”E Ref 517

It seems the Vogon Constructor Fleet has found someone else to chuck around for a time. The little bus shelterExplanation here has been relatively stable, the studio is not in motion, although there is a virtual swell out there, coming in from the SW that is so big that when we are at the bottom of a trough, Berri loses the 15 kt or so breeze she’s headbutting into and stands up with flapping sails for a few moments. That’s big.

With no weather info, we are much more on the alert fro changes – monitoring the barometer every few hours and looking out of the window much more. There is the beginning of s new system coming across from the west and north that we will need towatch. Big high cloud with depth and attitude.

We have a Xantrexxantrex battery monitor battery monitor – wonderful gizmo, except that in the various bits of electrical surgery we have performed during the year, we must have left off a connection somewhere and the monitor no longer measures the battery level, but it does give a very accurate indication of current draw – we know, for instance, that the backlight on the GPS uses 0.1 amps, as does the computer screen. It allows us to be very careful in conservation mode, and it nitpicks at me when I want to sit here and provide you all with goat fodder. I’ve got so used to being able to mess around with idle whimsy that it is a bit of a restriction. You may well notice a change in style – I think I can feel the difference already.

Today’s dmgDistance Made Good; More here is going to look very ordinary and unimpressive – we have only been able to make about 050M in a headwind and tack through about 120 degrees in the slop and dying wind. Every day seems to require a drastic change in ETAEstimated Time of Arrival – I don’t really have any sort of feel for what is ahead, but it does not look immediately promising. I’m pretty certain that we will have to go via Albany unless we get some more usable wind than we have over the last couple of weeks.

Chris, I like the idea of Homer’s position, but it’s way beyond my limited talents. There will be some ace navigators out there – are you there Brooksie? – who could give it a whirl. In fact I would be surprised if it hasn’t been done somewhere already.

[ed: Based on the star information in the quote, work out Odysseus’ position and course direction. Bear in mind the precession of the equinoxes and assume a date in the summer of 1250 BCE. You may ask a classics scholar where people think the ‘Phaiakian land’ was.”

Maybe see what Aelx thinks.

Best regards

Chris Nailer (Canberra)

Glorious Odysseus, happy with the wind, spread sails
and taking his seat artfully with the steering oar he held her
on her course, nor did sleep ever descend on his eyelids
as he kept his eye on the Pleiades and late-setting Bootes,
and the Bear, to whom men give also the name of the Wagon,
who turns about in a fixed place and looks at Orion,
and she alone is never plunged in the wash of the Ocean.
For so Kalypso, bright among goddesses, had told him
to make his way over the sea, keeping the Bear on his left hand.
Seventeen days he sailed, making his way over the water,
and on the eighteenth day there showed the shadowy mountains
of the Phaiakian land where it stood out nearest to him,
and it looked like a shield lying on the misty face of the water.
Coming back from the Aithiopians the strong Earthshaker (Poseidon)
saw him from far on the mountains of the Solymoi. He was visible
sailing over the sea. Poseidon was the more angered
with him, and shook his head, and spoke to his own spirit:

11 hours to today’s Consultation. My how the days drag from Con to Con! It will be nice to once again inhabit a freely libatory bus shelterExplanation here one day soon.

Big boats and small boats – Berrimilla is a very small boat for the conditions out here in the studio. Even a pile of dead leaves tends to get in the way and the starlings make a right mess. Ellen MacArthur’s trimaran was more that twice as long and about 5 times as wide, and the new Volvo boats are similarly huge by comparison. They can outrun the waves and swell, surfing at 30 knots, go hunting for weather and fly huge reaching sails deep in the southern ocean. We can’t do any of this. Full stop. It’s a bit like being in a small car with small wheels on a corrugated Australian outback road, or an English road full of potholes. The corrugations and potholes match the wheel diameter so every tiny bump is transmitted via the suspension to the chassis. A truck with huge wheels and lots of mass can more or less ignore them. In the same way, Berrimilla, at about 10 metres, often matches the wavelength of some of these short steep seas and stops every time she hits one, without time to get going again before the next one. Exactly what’s happening as I write – on Sydney harbour in this wind, we’d be doing 6 knots – we are lucky to get 3 in this slop, but the water T is low and it could mean that there is wind against current and we are getting a boost. (Can’t tell without instruments or proper plot on chart. Too big a rearrangement needed for chart unless essential). Also, Berri can be completely enveloped by big breaking crests. Although we are driving the boat as hard as we dare, realistically we have to sail very conservatively – almost timidly, sometimes, to preserve the boat and get her home, in conditions in which the Volvo boats are designed to excel. They would romp through this.

I’ve been watching our flock of black petrels – about 20 of them, with a little grey one along for the ride and the occasional albatross or two. They are aggressive scavengers – drop anything over the side and they are onto it instantly – the one that happens to be in the right position on their incessant orbits around our stern just drops on to it and the others all close in. Sometimes they fly formation, usually with an albatross, perhaps trying to shoo it away and when they can’t see anyone on deck, they come in very close, although I have noticed that they seem to be getting used to us and now often fly over the cockpit. Perhaps just getting hungrier. If we have a camera out, they seem to know and stay away. They are quite big birds, body about the size of a wild duck, but they chitter and squeak like sparrows. Quite disconcerting. I’m sure they are the same birds that have followed us for as long as I can remember – Tristan maybe. Just like us, they are out there more or less in survival mode all the time and I have a feeling of some sort of empathy – they seem to be doing it very hard, because we are not the source of food they might have expected.

The last 50 odd days of this venture are going to be the hardest 10k at the end of a marathon that I have ever run. Sheer, stoical headbanging patience and dogged persistence required. All day, every day, especially when the gin dries up and the Vogons are around.!

1-27. Indian Ocean Examiner

Nov 04, 2005 – 0900hrs UTC

By Alex on November 4, 2005, at 0900 UTC

0900hrs 04 Nov 2005 UTC 38’58”S 037’22”E Ref 518

Finished this at 3858 03722 04/0900 76/34 DMGDistance Made Good; More here 56, GPS 117 seems about right. 3739 to Albany, perhaps 35 days if we’re lucky.

1-27. Indian Ocean Examiner

Nov 04, 2005 – 1115hrs UTC

By Alex on November 4, 2005, at 1115 UTC

1115hrs 04 Nov 2005 UTC 39’05”S 037’23”E Ref 519

For Malcom T 13.4

1-28. How Low To Go? Towards 45°S

Nov 05, 2005 - 0100hrs UTC

By Alex on November 5, 2005, at 0100 UTC

0100hrs 05 Nov 2005 UTC 39’51”S 038’33”E Ref 520

Tooling along, we were, full main and 2, middle of the night – isn’t it always? – headbutting the corrugations a bit and feeling the thumps but safe and easy. Heading down the great circleSee here (Wikipedia) again, but – I fervently hope – just far enough east for the next one to slip below us. Many a pious hope… And up it comes and we go through the party gearFull wet weather gear routine straight from warm bunk – I’ll give you that in tiny detail one day – it’s interesting what one has to do to keep the whole exercise under control in a wildly tossing boat with limited stowage – up on deck, drop the 2, bag it and consign it, hank on the 4 on its strop, first reef in the main and up the 4. Way too much – wind had risen significantly – try second reef – still too much so go the third and then drop the 4 off strop, requiring change of car position as well. A biggie but now seems snug and comfy.

From Dave, Poole, UK

Wow what a night! “Hi Guys – one of your gusts here, just read last instalment and the hairs on my neck are still twitching and I’ve got a dry mouth just reading the Sitrep: 0350hrs 03 Nov 2005.

Your boat is amazing (and you two are of course even more amazing). You say (intimate perhaps) it would be easier in a larger boat and I’m sure that an Ocean 80 would be ripping along in 60Kts and as long as the crew were up to it a fabulous experience. But I also think that the “”middle sized modern”” boats might actually have a serious problem in the conditions you have and are experiencing. I own an Oceanis 44CC which is a much distorted hull form, extreme beam of over 15 ft and relatively shallow draft (wing keel). My extreme weather is waves of 3m! I do plan to make Ocean crossings on this boat however so when I listen to your story I get the effect described in my first sentence! I would not expect my boat (called Moana btw) to be any more comfortable than Berri in such extreme conditions and I would expect that you are a lot safer on Berri than I would be on Moana.

I am prompted to get stability data for Moana and it would be an interesting exercise to compare on paper with Berri’s.

Dave W from poole – I agree with your concerns – I don’t think your boat was designed for this. (Roger W, if you are reading this, could you please send Steve Berri’s IMS certificate number to post on the website or even fax him a copy to scan – Ta!) If Roger has the number you can get a copy from, I think, RORC and it has all the stability details. Berri’s point of vanishing stability – the point at which she will continue to roll rather than resisting – is, from memory, at 141.6 degrees (might be 146.1) which is way way stiffer than anything but an America’s Cup boat these days. Yours will be around 115 – 120,I suspect, and the fittings will be designed for closer inshore. Not good on the front of a breaking wave. I hope that’s not too distressing. There’s a photo of Berri out of the water in the ‘Preparations” doc on the website.

[ed: Hilary found an old IMS certificate and stability index, as Alex said, it is 141.6. The calculated limit of positive stability is 135.4 degrees]

Engine for first time in 3 days so have time to play. I really miss all my toys when we are conserving. We run the battery down to about 11.3 v and then hit it for 45 min at max charge – not good for it but best use of diesel.

1-28. How Low To Go? Towards 45°S

Nov 05, 2005 - 0700hrs UTC │Salute to the people who run Sailmail

By Alex on November 5, 2005, at 0700 UTC

Topic(s): Communications

0700hrs 05 Nov 2005 UTC 40’13”S 039’05”E Ref 521

This week’s Salute.

Imagine, please, how this venture might have progressed. Berrimilla finishes the S2H on New Year’s Day, 2005, 4 of the crew go home and Pete and Alex spend 10 days stocking the boat, have a farewell drink with some friends at Bellerive, clear Customs, phone their families and disappear for 9 days, to reappear, battered and bruised in Dunedin. They stay there for a few days and set off again, to reappear inPort Stanley56 odd days later. A few days more and away, to reappear inFalmouth71 days later, whence they phone Janet Grosvenor at RORC for the Fastnet entry kit. I wonder what she would have said and thought. But no word of the NZ knockdown, no International Space Station, no meeting with Leroy and Karen, no storms,Cape Hornrounding, drifting liferaft – no Fastnet light piccy on the web – no story. Just a static bus shelterExplanation here and a couple of diffident old farts doing their thing in the studio and I wouldn’t have found a voice I certainly never knew I had.

Instead, I have a fragile USB cable linking my laptop to an ICOM M802 HF radio and a Pactor PTC IIPro digital HF controller and modem. Lots of loverly blinking red and green lights – no idea what they all mean! Beyond those two boxes are Steve and Malcolm and the website, the World, all y’all, and you know the rest. The link that made it all possible is called Sail Mail and this is a huge Salute to the people who conceived it and run it and make it work. To Jim and Sue Corenman and their team, to Stan and Sally Honey (Stan, I think is navigating ABN AMRO in the Volvo) and all the station managers around the world – thanks for your competence, your generosity, your willingness to help and for a great service. Without you, we would have been unable to share this adventure and send and receive the 4000 or so emails that have crossed the worlds oceans between us all. It’s a subscription service, there are strict usage rules to give everyone a fair go, but beyond that it’s open slather and amazing value for your money. Jim and Sue are in Sail Mail HQ inFriday Harbour,Washington and you can see the other stations on their website. I have sent messages throughChile,Panama, Daytona, Rock Hill S. Carolina,Lunenburg,Belgium, Red Sea,Maputo (Hi Justice!) and Firefly, NSW, run by Derek and Jeanine Barnard at Penta Comstat. We may yet talk toBrunei. Pete and I dips our lids to you all.

And special thanks to Marc Robinson who put me on to it, sold me the equipment, spent a lot of his time helping me to learn how to use it – and if I can use it, anyone can – you can find him via the Penta Comstat website or – if he approves, we can put his email address on the Berri website.

1-28. How Low To Go? Towards 45°S

Nov 05, 2005 - 1030hrs UTC

By Alex on November 5, 2005, at 1030 UTC

1030hrs 05 Nov 2005 UTC 40’23”S 039’21”E Ref 522

DB: DMGDistance Made Good; More here 116, GPS 126, DTG Alb 3623, 77/33 I shall have to start recycling these updates. We’re bare poledExplanation here again – went straight there this time, from 3 reefs and the 5. In retro, might have been better to have set the tri, but 20/20 hindsight is always better than a prediction. Same as the last two or three – wind banging in from the north off the back of a high, will probably increase from current 40 and back into top of low and the fan will start to revolve. I’m still hoping we’re just far enough across now to miss the worst of it. Clench, babes, and lets wait and see! The frustration is that every time we do this, it’s a day added to the end. We’ve got to break out of it sometime. Now fore reaching about 170M, expecting, if last time any guide, about 24 hours of this, then backing to west and we’ll be blown back north again. Tedious. Another jolly day in the bus shelterExplanation here. It’s a lot like the corner ofS. Americaon the way up.

IsabellaAlex's sister tells me that Wally and Gromit have the best equipment ever for getting into party gearFull wet weather gear. I remember the first one – why didn’t we think of that?

Who was the MC at the Restaurant at the End of the Universe? I think it was Max Quordlepleen – we need him right here, to wrk the levers and rock us out into the end of the storm past 42 degrees or so and gently waft us back in again as we eat our specially presented piece of genetically engineered cow. We could watch the blue rinse SFX in comfort rather than sitting upended on the floor. Zarquon’s followers could give us a rousing cheer to encourage us from time to time. Marvin could park HotBlack’s ship and come inside after his zillion years as a parking attendant and we could all be hammered by HotBlack’s band – don’t remember it’s name but rather noisy, then we could go and jump the improbability drive back to Sydney. Summon the Goat!

From Juddy

Phew! it doesn’t sound too relaxing out there at the moment. Perhaps as you get further away from the Cape the lows won’t be as viscious, although you are a fair way away now. Anyway I hope you get some fair sailing as well.

Sorry for taking a few days to reply; I needed to negotiate the `leave pass’. I’d be delighted to join you for another Sydney Hobart. I was going to ask you though, if we could get in for New Year’s Eve because as much as I enjoyed the last time I spent New Years eve on Berri with Alex, a bubble slowly going past the transom and a seal, it would be nice to kick up our heels together in Hobart….

Juddy, thanks – great. We’ve just got to get out of this nonsense and back there. Not at all what I was expecting – got it badly wrong somewhere. Do you have SSSC? If not, any chance you could get it? Gerry Fitz might be around between now and then. Not a showstopper if too hard -I’m sure one of the others will have it.

1-28. How Low To Go? Towards 45°S

Nov 05, 2005 – 1430hrs UTC

By Alex on November 5, 2005, at 1430 UTC

1430hrs 05 Nov 2005 UTC 40’27”S 039’35”E Ref 523

Didn’t last long – won’t bore you with the transitional stages – back to 2 reefs and the 4 – in the lumpiest, most corrugated, mogul like serrated chunky rotten sea ever and we have to cater for the max likely wind so can’t really set any more sail. Worst rolling gyrating pitching yawing motion we’ve had yet. When we stop, our escort of petrels all park around us on the water. They usually sit in a big gaggle chirruping. Was trying to see whether the 2 smaller grey ones joined them – I think not. Also two terns flying around earlier. Lovely graceful finely drawn birds.

Afternoon Con has arrived – that sort of day, so strictly rationed gin and lemon squash and water. Noice – when you’ve got no tonic.

1-28. How Low To Go? Towards 45°S

Nov 05, 2005 – 2150hrs UTC

By Alex on November 5, 2005, at 2150 UTC

Topic(s): Stars, Sunrise, Sunset

2150hrs 05 Nov 2005 UTC 40’13”S 040’34”E Ref 524

About 5 hours ago, I was out shaking the reefs – furious rolling, decks covered in running water, but I was sustained by the vision of the Moon and Venus close together in a clear patch of sky surrounded by a gleaming fractal halo of clouds. An image to be here for – made up for lots of frustration – stark clarity, no city grime in the air. If Turner had painted it, you wouldn’t have believed it.

AndIndian Oceansunsets and sunrises are something else again. I remember the first time I saw them, a thousand miles further north about 40 years ago – I still have the photos. The cloud formations are spectacular on their own, but the blue of the sky seems much deeper and the flaming orange, pink, red and greys in lines and mares’ tails and puffs and waves across the sky – and the cherry pink at dawn – it all has a depth and burning lustre that stay in the memory for ever.

We are going in the right direction at the right speed for a nice change – with some current under us too. Depending on how you count them, I think there are now 51 days to the start on Boxing Day. From now on the DB will simply count down instead of measuring the old Dec 11 schedule. I think that is now well and truly an ex-parrot.

1-28. How Low To Go? Towards 45°S

Nov 06, 2005 – 0500hrs UTC

By Alex on November 6, 2005, at 0500 UTC

Topic(s): Birds

0500hrs 06 Nov 2005 UTC 40’09”S 041’38”E Ref 525

We’ve torn our tired old warhorse of a mainsail at the second reefing cringle in the leech. I’m astonished that it has lasted this long – the sail has now travelled further than most – made in 1993, 8Hobartraces including ’98 and return, 5 Lord Howe and return, plus all the normal sailing in between and this year around the Horn and the world. A true and faithful servant indeed! We have the third reef in now so the sail is still set but we will exchange it for the new one when the wind changes.

Wonderful sailing – we’re broad reaching at 6 – 7 in a 30-40 kt southerly, short steep seas on the beam but not threatening, tho may build. Berri surfing at times, main feathered right off so that it is only fully occupied when the boat gets a bit pear shaped and needs a bit of a shove to get it back up and on line again. #4 at the front, decks constantly awash and heading due east along 4010 south – Brill! Long may it last and it’s going to have to if we’re going to make the line.

By my reckoning, we have sailed about 9200 miles fromFalmouth, with about 5000 toSydneyand 50 days to go. Still doable, but only via Bass Strait and preferably bypassingAlbany. We still have 70 litres of diesel and I think we can make it last – as long as we start to get some distance in the log and a bit more sunshine. The flea is inching its way across the chart maddeningly slowly – still not pastMadagascar- I no longer have the pretty SOB nav system picture to play with, so I don’t get to look at it as often as I’m used to, which may not be a bad thing. Still feel bereft!

Small squid arrived on deck last night – inked everywhere – was too busy when I first saw it to get it back into the water but it’s gone now. Petrel escort still with us and the cigarette ash and mud albatross type birds are back – they have very dark brown heads and similar beaks, ash mix mostly between shoulders and part way out along topside of wings.

1-28. How Low To Go? Towards 45°S

Nov 06, 2005 – 0900hrs UTC

By Alex on November 6, 2005, at 0900 UTC

0900hrs 06 Nov 2005 UTC 40’20”S 042’06”E Ref 526

DB: dmgDistance Made Good; More here 110, gps 142, Start line -50 days.

Desperately slow progress – the fact that we only managed 110 miles yesterday, with everything including current apparently going with us has caused me to put on my Realist’s hat (sounds like something Charles the First might have worn, wide, raking, floppy and feathered – perhaps Cromwell’s helmet might be more appropriate though) and look a bit more carefully at the Equation. I think that the minimum distance we will have to sail to reachSydneyis about 5500 miles along essentially rhumb line courses. We have 50 days to do it. In the last three weeks or so, we have averaged less than 90 miles a day. Although this could change, wearing my silly hat it seems to me rather unlikely that we will be able to get toSydneyin time for the start. We have lost the momentum and we will find it hard to catch up. We shall keep trying, but it gets more difficult with each slow day. By the time we get toCapeLeeuwin, in about a month, the numbers will be on the wall and we will know whether we have any sort of a chance. A dramatic arrival on Boxing Day would be fun but a touch stressful in the making!

If it becomes clearly impossible, we’re at a bit of a loss as to what to do, but I think that we will head for SE Cape andHobart, perhaps to meet the S2H fleet down there for New Year’s Eve and a certain Birthday. This would add the 5thCapeand close the 2 handed circumnavigation where it began, at the Iron Pot, which has a nice compensatory symmetry. Whatever, it will be a very sad decision to have to make. Should it happen, then I think that a possible rendezvous in Recherche Bay with the BOGgersBrolga Owners, perhaps the Pippins if not S2H’ing, Wildfire and the Tascraft mob and anyone else who cares to come down would add a touch of historical significance to the venture and give us something to look forward to. We could then all sail north to the Pot and celebrate together.RechercheBaywas where all the early explorers stopped for water and wood and a rest – there’s a long list of them and some of their stonework remains are still visible ashore.

From Rob Baker – thanks Rob and I’m sure you won’t mind my quoting you:

That low that caught you at the Barn Door came from virtually nowhere…from a 997mb low behind you and deepened quickly to 975mb when it was on top of you, and then continued to deepen to a remarkable 933mb as it moved to the south east.

A nasty….and unusual…. assignment from the Examiner.

I’ll say! And then she sent us another one! WHWDTDT?

1-28. How Low To Go? Towards 45°S

Nov 07, 2005 – 0200hrs UTC

By Alex on November 7, 2005, at 0200 UTC

0200hrs 07 Nov 2005 UTC 39’48”S 043’44”E Ref 527

With apologies to Rabbie’s ghost, the best laid plans of mice and men and me gang aft agley. I had expected that, should this venture decide to go pear shaped, it would happen going down the Atlantic and that once at the latitude ofCape Townon schedule, it should have been in the bag. Not so it seems! Back to the equation – the shortest way home from here is direct to Gabo. The great circler for that would take us south of Kerguelen and just clip NW Tasmania. We wont be going south of Kerguelen in this little boat but we’ll try and get down till we can see the whites of the eyes of the penguins on the rocks. The thermals are coming out, the teeth are being cranked once again into grit mode, we’re about to change mainsails and turn south. Hang on for the ride – it could save us a couple of days. I’m trying to arrange to have some diesel and Boags shipped out to us as we passTasmania, assuming the plan is still afoot so that we can bypassAlbanyandEdenand go straight forSydney. It isn’t over yet. Roger, may need special arrangement to clear customs if cut very fine. 49 days to go.

Malcom, cd u please estimate CPA for Dufresne and we’ll try and call them half a day ahead.

1-28. How Low To Go? Towards 45°S

Nov 07, 2005 - 0545hrs UTC

By Alex on November 7, 2005, at 0545 UTC

0545hrs 07 Nov 2005 UTC 39’48”S 043’59”E Ref 528

Steve – comms via africa v spotty again. May have to revert to daytime satcom while we have the solar panel on line. Satcom doesn’t save incoming messages and they seem to take about 4 hours from you to us so we may need to work out a routine. Easier as we get closer.

We have just spent an hour or so doing the biggest sail change ever – from the tri and the 4 with a tired old main on the boom to the newer main and the 2 – new battens, re-run the reefing lines, the lot but we’re now pointing at Kerguelen and looking those penguins in the eye.

Great stuff- except that the Examiner is still poncing around in her hot pinks. We’ve only got about 10 knots of breeze. Our time will come!

And in the big sort out up front to dredge out the new main – guess what! – we found a dozen bottles of tonic. WOOOOOHOOOOO!

So we had a couple of measures of the DoctorGuinness for breakfast and the game is on. Watch this space!

Under my silly hat again, yes. it’s possible to make the start line but dodgy. Practically, it’s not sensible to try to go much further that about 45 south and that’s hugely risky for a day or so saved. We’ll play it as it comes – go with Destiny and the Vortex. We’ll need as much sunlight as we can get and we will need to be wise in our use of diesel and sail combinations in the inevitable stinky bits if we are to keep moving, as we must.

From Chris, Helen & Lindsay in Canberra, Australia

Fascinated by your log. It makes fantastic reading. Very powerful indeed; very direct, straight from the heart and the gut; and then these fabulous passages of analytical and technical information, such as the description of the dissection / diagnosis of the solar panel. Leaves one feeling awe-struck and humble, wanting to be there and share in it and see what you’re seeing, but also conscious I would never survive what you are going through, and actually glad I’m not there at all. But so amazed and proud to know you for doing it… Here’s something to think about… I’m trying to write something about wisdom; it’s become a bit of a trendy buzz-word in the management world, and most people who write about it don’t seem to know what they’re talking about. Which is one reason why I’m re-reading Confucius and for the first time Plato, the Book of Proverbs and lots of other stuff. One thing that seems to be common is the idea that ‘wisdom’ differs from ‘knowledge’ by virtue of being something one can only attain through long experience and reflection… Getting ‘wisdom’ is a process characterised by perseverence as well as by insight. So you two probably know a thing or two about it – perhaps things you don’t even know that you know. What is wisdom? Is it the Examiner? Is it outwitting the Examiner? Is it doing what the Examiner wants? Is it doing something totally unexpected, but so well that the Examiner gives you the credit for it anyway? And is it a ‘doing’ sort of thing or more of a ‘being’ sort of thing? Who has it? How do you know that they have it? Something for the stormy nights.

Chris – I’d love to see the final version – to me, the difference between knowledge and wisdom is profound – the tricky part for me has always been to sort out the element of the definition of wisdom that includes getting it right – have you been wise if you fail to achieve? And,if so, how and why? If you think, for instance, that wisdom is the judicious application of knowledge based on experience, then there is the problem of the subjective element introduced by ‘judicious’. Lots of fun. Does an MBA give you wisdom?? Nah! Technique, maybe, knowledge, maybe, but wisdom? If you learn from it that there is a lot that you don’t know, then the application of that knowledge might require all the wisdom you can muster. Didn’t Bertrand Russell do this rather better somewhere? Goat, come hither and ruminate upon this codswallop.

It’s very soft out there – I think this means that the wind will back from the south around to the north for the front of the next low and eventually to the west and round we go again. I hope it is reasonably benign.

1-28. How Low To Go? Towards 45°S

Nov 07, 2005 - 0900hrs UTC

By Alex on November 7, 2005, at 0900 UTC

0900hrs 07 Nov 2005 UTC 39’52”S 044’15”E Ref 529

Now 3952 04415 07/0900 s/line -49, day 80

DB: DMGDistance Made Good; More here 100, GPS 104, Gt.C. DTG Gabo is 4634, rhumb line about 4850 so only a day in it. Might be the day we need.

Still soft but moving – not quite the Ride of the Valkyries across the watery waste to the great grey Island, more the Sugar Plum Fairy. And our own pet hot pink Valkyrie will no doubt have an assignment or two in the kitbag for us. Bliss!

Our average GPS distance covered in the 80 days has been over 130 – pity it has been all over the ocean rather than DMGDistance Made Good; More here , but we can definitely cover the distance. Average distance since Henry has been about 100 but a different measurement and not directly comparable. I measured the distance between start and finish coordinates – again, not DMGDistance Made Good; More here but an approximation.

From Ann G.

Reading the log everyday (at least once) and I happened to be reading the preparations sections of the webpage and found the following: “” Aquair uses a towed impeller giving approx 4.5 amps @ 6 knots, or a wind conversion giving approx 6 amps @ 40 knots wind. We have also built a direct drive from a folding bicycle – output not yet tested but likely to be comparable. Both crew members fit enough to pedal for at least two hours…”” Has the folding bicycle idea not worked to generate power?

Please be patient and don’t go off the deep end. Sometimes when the end is in sight (no matter what the project) I get impatient for it (whatever it is) to be finished. Easy for me to day from the comfort of my studio on this bright warm Saturday in November in Washington DC. Temp is about 25C, no wind :^), and bright sunshine.

We just had a lengthy visit from a pair of blue jays – big squawking things but beautiful to observe.

I’m sorry it looks tight for reaching the startline of S2H05. Here’s hoping it ain’t so, and miraculously you’ll be able to get there in time.

Ann – we abandoned the bike with much sadness – it had become a friend, but it took up too much room. Wouldn’t have helped now anyway because intended to connect to serviceable generator.

1-28. How Low To Go? Towards 45°S

Nov 07, 2005 – 1130hrs UTC

By Alex on November 7, 2005, at 1130 UTC

Topic(s): Birds

1130hrs 07 Nov 2005 UTC 39’59”S 044’27”E Ref 530

Now 3959 04427 07/1130 – barometer holding but some serious looking cloud piling up behind. Present wind SW about 15 kts, low therefore to the south somewhere. Interesting.

Shackleton mentions lots of birds – mollymauks, cape pigeons, petrels various, sooty and wandering albatrosses – I think out brownish ones mat be sooty albys – they are medium sized with yellowish beaks proportionately longer that some of the others. No dolphins since mid atlantic, no whales, no phosphorescence – just a brilliant moon, Venus and a little squid. And a tiny flying fish on deck this morning – seriously lost, poor thing.

1-28. How Low To Go? Towards 45°S

Nov 07, 2005 - 2330hrs UTC

By Alex on November 7, 2005, at 2330 UTC

2330hrs 07 Nov 2005 UTC 40’14”S 045’53”E Ref 531

Hooning – sailing out beyond the comfort zone – romping with attitude, grey knuckles and clenched freckle – Sailing in close company with the good ship Titan Uranus – any advance?

[ed: in response to some questions about vague and/or cryptic references elsewhere in the logs…]

Mobile Maritime Station Identification #, Closest Point of Approach Archer’s Tool – Strongbow cider – JW Smoothies come in a green can with a widget so have lovely creamy head. First tasted in theFalklands, Dr Cooper – Cooper’s Sparkling Ale – brewed in the bottle, so a bit of sludge comes with it – best beer on the planet – beats a Pan Galactic Gargleblaster hands down. Also Pete’s home brew, brewed from a Coopers kit. 5Capesok, dodger – small hood extending aft from coachroof over front of cockpit – v. small in Berri, just big enough to duck under and dodge the flying spray from greenie – wave breaking over boat, with some solid water. Check Peter J. citation with Thorry Gunnarson who knows him well and could even run it past him. Grib – ok, and available via sailmail, so extremely useful – gives detailed wind and baro. pressure over selected area by email. Arrives as active diagrammatic representation with wind arrows and isobars – v. clever, to us non nerds.

Went out to put in the second reef as we hooned towards the penguins at sunset – sky like looking into a furnace with deep, bottomless golden red glow and grey black clouds silhouetted in front – and an albatross too, at full 90 degree bank, razor wings

vertical with tips just curving upward with the g force. Magnificent. We can’t hold the great circleSee here (Wikipedia) course at the mo – carving a line along the rhumb. Not worth worrying about – we’re doing 6+. Berri thundering along, 2 reefs and 2, 30 – 35 kts from SW,

huge stern wave rolling up behind – some sparkles of phosphorescence and long smoky snaky trail in the water. Crashing a bit in the gusts with heavy water over the top and into the cockpit. Solid overcast, no moonglow, no stars. Barometer rising minimally so still on the front of a high, it seems.

From John McC

You are in the thick of it down there and regularly comment on Berri as a strong seaworthy boat. In your opinion, is the S&S 34 as well found a boat.

John – I can’t compare Berri with an S&S 34 – never sailed in one – can tell you that the 34 is faster in light winds but we dork them in the heavy stuff. Brolgas have more interior space because engine aft under cockpit, not in saloon.

Malcom – tks for ship data. And squid. I expect the next ploy will be taking them for scientific research…

From Graham S

Cheer up my lads, its to glory you steer
To add something to your wonderful year
You were not pressed, so as to enslave
We that are so free, us sons of the waves.

By my MerlinMerlin calculator 11 and checked by my Endeavour Nav system, between 0700 hrs on 5th and 0900 hrs on the 6th you had 138.2 nm, by GPS positions, which is 5.3 Kts for 26hrs.

Sydney via S.E.Cape is 5407 nm, just 57nm more than via Bass Straight which has just the same weather as Agulas Plateau and its near vicinity which you have just experienced, and that plateau south of NZ.

5407 nm at 5.3 kts puts you in Sydney on the 19th Dec.

Now I think you could do better than 5.3kts, especially via S.E.Cape. Bass Straight could end being a lot longer.

Graham – thanks for numbers and advice – problem with measuring between coordinates of day’s run is that the result is almost never the same as DMGDistance Made Good; More here . I think thatBass Straitis risky, as you suggest, but the better half of the compromise if we are cutting it

very fine. If we can catch up a bit, we’ll do theCape, no worries, mate. We’ll need a good southerly up the Taswegian coast to bring us home – and a boatful of diesel for the east coast current.

1-28. How Low To Go? Towards 45°S

Nov 08, 2005 - 0500hrs UTC

By Alex on November 8, 2005, at 0500 UTC

Topic(s): Health & Injuries

0500hrs 08 Nov 2005 UTC 39’53”S 046’25”E Ref 532

Well, life does have its ups and downs. There we were, all ready to charge off to frighten some French penguins to the very unfrightening tempo of the Dance of the Sugar Plum Fairy when along comes the Examiner and slams the door. The wind has backed to the SE and the baro is rising so we must be at the top corner of a high to the west somewhere, but we ain’t got no VMG for Gabo – the best we can do for the GC track is VMG = 0, but often minus, so it is marginally positive for the rhumb line. Depressing – or it is when the Examiner is not looking. No point in tacking – the best we’d do would be about the same on the other tack. We have a very low, thin furious looking overcast with lumpier bits embedded in it and occasional bursts of the palest sunlight which drives up the panel amps into positive for a few seconds. Still blowing about 30kts

Health matters – we’re both losing the skin from our fingers – my first and second fingertips are now down through the first six or so layers and down to the bright pink living skin. Keeping the industrial lanoline up to them and will start wearing gloves on deck. Makes intricate things very difficult – just have to fumble slowly or, as one of my favourite Lecturers once wrote, employ the science of muddling through. (That was Leon Peres at Melbourne Uni, talking about bureaucratic capacity for dealing with uncertainty. Has this any element of wisdom?)

And it’s cold – this wind has been trawling up the Antarctic icicles and the water seems to be very cold indeed, altho when I last switched on the instruments, it was about 13 Deg. The condensation is pretty bad but manageable. Gets really bad at night.

For the first time, I can look at this venture as a finite exercise – Act 5, Scene 2 has a maximum of 48 days to go. Whether there is an Act 6 is anyone’s guess but we’re working on it. In one way it helps, but in these conditions, 48 days – 7 weeks – seems to be a very long time. I think we’re closing on the dreaded 36K mark when it’s all pain to the finish. We are driving the boat as hard as we dare – kept the 2 on for far too long last night, but made a few miles, only to have to get up at dawn in the cold and horizontal wet and swap it for the 4. Must be a bit like the decisions facing the Tea Clipper Captains, with similar deadlines but much, much more to lose if they pushed too hard. I try sometimes to imagine Cutty Sark – a huge sailing ship – going full tilt down here – the noise and the flying water and the crew up on the yards and the sheer power of the rig trying to pull itself out of the hull. Those men must have been nerveless or died early of stress.

From Malcom C.

Thanks to Malcolm R I know what a CPA is. CPA Dufresne is between 0800 and 1200 UTC on 8 November. Assuming you have begun heading a bit south I estimate you will be at about 40.30S 46.30E at 0800 UTC on 8 November and by then Dufresne should be at 40S 53E at 0800 UTC on 8 November. CPA will be in the following four hours. Haven’t done the math but I guess 200+NM separation would you say

FYI, Ile Crozet is at about 47S 52E and Kerguelen 48S 69E. I get 3 hourly positions of Dufresne so can pick up course changes and likely destinations quite easily.

Supply ship Aurora Australis is currently at Davis Base, Antarctica at 77E. I imagine it will then go to Mawson Base at 63E and I guess to Heard Island after that, which would then be back in an area of interest.

Malcom, we’ll try calling Dufresne at 0900, but I doubt whether they will be listening on HF – they will have their GMDSS operating and will need a DSC call to wake them up. I could send one to their mmsi number, but it means rigging another aerial and then I’m not sure what their working frequency would be. I’ll try on 2182 on the basis that that is what Ile Amsterdam monitors. Later – tried both Dufresne and Amsterdam – no rnser.

Logs ( 200 )

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